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Gary Fisher Roscoe Owners.....

41K views 102 replies 30 participants last post by  ferrettank 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I'm just wondering how many of you have managed to crack your frame?

After a weekend and a race in Wales i've cleaned the bike to find a crack through the drive-side chainstay, at the front of the furthest forward cable boss, just about where the big chainring ends. The frame it little over a year old.

The problem is, there is already a little damage on that exact area of the frame due to chain-suck, I don't think it's likely to have contributed to the crack as i've heard of a few frames cracking in this spot before.

What are people's thoughts on Trek being likely to honour the warranty despite this chain-suck scraping? I won't be back in south England where the frame was purchased for a few weeks so thought i'd find opinions here beforehand.

And how many people of you have cracked the frame in this area?

Cheers

Joe

here's a few pics of the crack...

EDIT: 3rd and 4th pictures added after second crack was found in undamaged area
 

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#62 ·
Personally i will never even consider buyin a trek/ fisher again. They should just stay away from full suspension altogether. Seems they can bulid a roscoe that will hold up to win slopestyle contest,but cant bulid a production model that will handle all mountain riding. Two thumbs DOWN!
 
#63 ·
I have to say that I have not experienced any of these issues with my Roscoe but it was a 2010 model perhaps that is the difference?
I've done some pretty horrible stuff to mine including a fair bit of DH work without any issues. Perhaps the issue is related to chain suck or debris marking the chain stays which creates a stress raiser, hence the cracking? After reading this I will certainly inspect for damage and apply helicopter tape, I love my Roscoe even if it is a tractor.
 
#64 ·
Well hopefully the 2010's might be better? I picked up a new leftover Roscoe 1 for my son this past spring for $1500. Had to grab it at that price and promptly registered it with Trek. I will hold onto my proof of purchase for dear life. Sadly he's only had it out 3 times so at that rate probably no reason to worry about breakage. I'll be keeping a very close watch on everything.

Really sharp looking bike I gotta admit and if it was my size I'd be out riding it.
 
#65 ·
Hey folks. im new to this forum. I bought a roscoe 3 about 1 1/2 years ago. i bought it used and i viewed all the forums before purchasing. Cross fingers mine has been ok so far, but with all these other peeps frames going wrong i hope if mine does go wrong there will be a part available! i have got the receipt from the original purchaser but not sure how much use that would be. On another note, can anyone tell me how to remove my RP23 rear shock from the frame as i need to service it.. just had to shell out £380 to get my RP24 TALAS forks rebuilt!!
 
#67 ·
Only way to find out is checking with a dealer or contacting trek directly. I shelled out 165'ish bucks for mine last year. I ordered one because chain slap had been doing a # on the stay. In the interim, I saw the OP's thread and there it was, the crack. I have also had to replace the link for the rear suspension - 120'ish bucks. Had it out today in the snow with studded tires and it was performing well. I think they either have the parts, or can have them made. They had sourced out a machine shop in Wis. to make a batch of links (mine was one of them).
 
#68 ·
Yeh i went to my LBS today and because im not the original owner there not honouring any warranty..:( . They said they were going to get in touch with trek/fisher and let me know if they can source any. Think im in the same boat with regards to the link for the rear suspension..noticed play in it.. is that the main link just next to the crank with the 'huge' nut?
 
#69 ·
not sure how wrench savvy you are - I'm not, but have friends who have tools that are. Since you bought it used, maybe you should think about having the LBS or someone go through and check torque on all the pivots etc. Mine will loosen some occasionally. I was referring to the link which connects the shock to the upper part of the rear triangle (seat stays). I have had the small bolt at the bottom of the shock loosen up. Be careful about over tightening that one, it is a lower torque than the rest of the pivots.
 
#71 ·
I got a new suspension rocker under warranty- the thread on it where the lower part of the shock mounts got ruined. Trek replaced it for free (wasnt expecting that, as the bike shop said it was from user error- maybe... maybe not) but I think it may have got damaged when I bent the chainstay (have snapped one and bent one + the threaded rocker).
I wouldnt be expecting them to be making any more chainstays- last I heard (from the shop who warrantied the rocker) was that they only had 6 or so spare chainstays left. I'm not sure how accurate that info is though...
 
#76 ·
There is the main bolt that threads through from the driveside, and a nut on the non-drive side.
The main bolt undoes from the nut with an allen key (8mm if i remember). The nut should only have two flat spots, so grab onto those witha spanner.
The Part the allen key goes into isnt on the "head"/wider bit of the bolt like a normal bolt, it's on the non-drive side, at the end of the bolt, if that makes sense. So you undo the bolt from the same side as the spanner is on, on the non-drive side. And because it's on the other side, turn the allen key clockwise rather than anticlockwise with the spanner kept still. I needed to take my cranks off as well, the main pivot bolt wouldnt come out without hitting my chainring.
 
#84 ·
Pretty sure someone did it in the 650B forum. It will fit fine (my son has one and I tested the best I could with a non ABP wheel) and the only issue might be seat post contact with big volume 650 tires. If you have a Fox 26" fork plenty of 650B tires will clear the bottom of the crown at bottom out but the bigger ones will hit and drag. The tallest 650B tire is the Schwalbe Nobby Nick 2.35" and I tested this on my sons Roscoe Float 140 and it clears the arch fine by about 3mm but hits the bottom of the crown. With some force I could still roll the bike but a 5mm internal spacer would be recommended. A Pacenti Neo-Moto 2.3 works fine and I've been using that on my converted Prophet with a Talas 140.
 
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