Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 58

Thread: My first frame

  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188

    My first frame

    For my first frame im pretty much mimicking my current trek/gf marlin (with a small adjustment to the HA) I have no experience with metal work and will be doing all of this under the close eye of a buddy of mine who has built about 8 or so frames. It'll have a 70.3ish HA with a RS reba RLT 29er g2(51mm offest) 16.75 CS with a just a smidge left with 2.35's.

    Im using a Nova 29er tubeset, 35mm DT 969. Also got 700mm of thicker headtube since I thought the one from the set was kind of thin for my first build (and now i have head tubes for my next bikes)

    I would comment on each photo but i dont know how to put text in between photos so i guess theyll all be as one, but here is my progress so far, please feel free to critique or give advice, id like to learn as much as possible.

    Commence photo dump
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My first frame-2012-11-28_21-55-13_411.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-02_17-59-39_481.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-02_20-00-01_944.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-04_23-21-57_902.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-04_23-22-10_775.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-05_16-38-25_11.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-05_16-38-48_592.jpg  


  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    860
    Looks like a great start!

  3. #3
    Moderator Moderator
    Reputation: Walt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,093

    More filler!

    Great start!

    Do some more practice joints. You've got waaay less filler there than I think you probably want (unless you're planning to add more once the DT is on) and you've got tons of high spots/low spots and probably plenty of voids you can't see. Braze a bunch of stuff together and make big, fat fillets until you can do it consistently without having half the filler run off away from the joint or onto the floor. Cut those practice joints in half and see how you did inside the fillet and tube as well.

    Once again, awesome start. But I think you should do a little more practice before doing the actual frame. Cruise over to Garro's site (coconinocycles.blogspot.com) and check out some of his joints - that's what you're aiming for.

    -Walt
    Waltworks Custom Bicycles
    Park City, UT USA
    www.waltworks.com
    waltworks.com/blog/
    instagram.com/waltworks/

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Great start!

    Do some more practice joints. You've got waaay less filler there than I think you probably want (unless you're planning to add more once the DT is on) and you've got tons of high spots/low spots and probably plenty of voids you can't see. Braze a bunch of stuff together and make big, fat fillets until you can do it consistently without having half the filler run off away from the joint or onto the floor. Cut those practice joints in half and see how you did inside the fillet and tube as well.

    Once again, awesome start. But I think you should do a little more practice before doing the actual frame. Cruise over to Garro's site (coconinocycles.blogspot.com) and check out some of his joints - that's what you're aiming for.

    -Walt

    I did do a few practice rounds before I started, but i've already cut into these tubes so theres not much turnin back from here. That was only supposed to be the 'tinning' but i got a little carried away, when im ready to put the whole front triangle together it's definatly going to get a serious fillet.
    Thanks

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: adarn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    377
    Nice. Also, what kind of flux is that?

    It looks a lot like the silver flux that I tried using when I started. If it is, at least go get some higher temp stuff. It will make a huge difference.

    Good luck!

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jay_ntwr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Beatniqwood09 View Post
    I did do a few practice rounds before I started, but i've already cut into these tubes so theres not much turnin back from here. That was only supposed to be the 'tinning' but i got a little carried away, when im ready to put the whole front triangle together it's definatly going to get a serious fillet.
    Thanks
    I'd take that joint out and finish it before moving on. You'll be able to cut more material off the DT to match the fillet and have a good joint to start with. I'm a TIG guy though so YMMV w/ brazing but there's no way I'd finish the DT/BB/ST joint with that inside the DT.

    Other than that, it's looking like a good start on #1. I'd also echo more practice, cut tubes aren't going to change size now. Just get more proficient and then go to the tubes again. One of the biggest things I learned is that getting in a hurry is the quickest way to ruin a frame. You'll be happier in the long run the slower you go on the first ones.

  7. #7
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,119
    Good start, I'm interested to see more of the process. I've built a lugged frame and I'd really like to try my hand at fillet brazing soon.

    In order to add pictures in line with commentary use the little yellow icon with a mountain and a moon "Insert Image" instead of attaching files. You will need to upload the photos to an online storage system (I use Photobucket) but you can add text between the IMG tags.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by jay_ntwr View Post
    I'd take that joint out and finish it before moving on. You'll be able to cut more material off the DT to match the fillet and have a good joint to start with. I'm a TIG guy though so YMMV w/ brazing but there's no way I'd finish the DT/BB/ST joint with that inside the DT.

    Other than that, it's looking like a good start on #1. I'd also echo more practice, cut tubes aren't going to change size now. Just get more proficient and then go to the tubes again. One of the biggest things I learned is that getting in a hurry is the quickest way to ruin a frame. You'll be happier in the long run the slower you go on the first ones.

    Are you saying to put a big fillet around the ST/BB and make it smooth, and then adjust the miter on the downtube to make up for the extra filler?

  9. #9
    RCP Fabrication
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    389
    I can't tell from the image, but it seems that you drew the fork rake incorrectly on your print. Rake is measured 90* to the fork length, not parallel to the axle line. If you did this, and build the frame to those numbers, when built everything will be about a degree steeper and the bb a little bit lower than you planned.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jay_ntwr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    709
    Quote Originally Posted by Beatniqwood09 View Post
    Are you saying to put a big fillet around the ST/BB and make it smooth, and then adjust the miter on the downtube to make up for the extra filler?
    Yes. That would be my preference. Again, I'm not a fillet guy, but that's how I would do it. I suppose having a fillet guy chime in here to confirm would be valuable.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: adarn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    377
    I'm a fillet guy. I usually tin the joint/internal braze. So a really small fillet, then fit the DT and then put a big fillet down when I braze in the DT and CS's.

    I am pretty sure that this is the way most fillet guys are doing it. The joint will be stronger if you are mitering steel to steel rather than steel to brass.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by RCP FAB View Post
    I can't tell from the image, but it seems that you drew the fork rake incorrectly on your print. Rake is measured 90* to the fork length, not parallel to the axle line. If you did this, and build the frame to those numbers, when built everything will be about a degree steeper and the bb a little bit lower than you planned.
    Oh wow. I cant really say right now because my buddy who's teaching me did the majority of the math on this and the drawing is at his house but I'll definitely confirm this with him before I do anything else.

    Thanks

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by adarn View Post
    I'm a fillet guy. I usually tin the joint/internal braze. So a really small fillet, then fit the DT and then put a big fillet down when I braze in the DT and CS's.

    I am pretty sure that this is the way most fillet guys are doing it. The joint will be stronger if you are mitering steel to steel rather than steel to brass.
    That's what i thought, so should I file down the tin near the tips of the DT so as to get as much steel on steel as possible?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: adarn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    377
    It looks like you're probably ok. Some cleaning up definitely wouldn't hurt. I usually soak it and take off the old flux and do some minor clean up if needed. Your fillet looks like you need to keep your torch moving more and work more brass into the joint, but it's hard to tell from that pic.

    Take your time, really take time to think things through, take more time and it should turn out good.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: whydomylegshurt?'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    165
    I would suggest using more flux. Personally I put a thin coating of flux on any part of the tube that is going to get hot. That means a few inches away from the joint in all directions. I keep the paste flux very thin and use a powder flux on the brass rod. I fing this keeps clean up easy, protects the tube and places just the right amount of flux at the joint. If you don't have good powder flux just add a bit more paste around the joint.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by RCP FAB View Post
    I can't tell from the image, but it seems that you drew the fork rake incorrectly on your print. Rake is measured 90* to the fork length, not parallel to the axle line. If you did this, and build the frame to those numbers, when built everything will be about a degree steeper and the bb a little bit lower than you planned.
    Figured it out. The rake (which is the same as offset correct?) was measured at the headset and drawn down from there

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Turns out yall were right. Did some check measuring before i got started today and found my BB had moved a few mm out of line. So we got it reset and went to cold set the seat tube so it fit back in the jig and the fillet cracked on the acute side. My buddy seemed fairly confident that we could re-braze the cracked side and still form a solid joint.

    I think my problem lies with temperature control and knowing that the thicker tube will require more heat, as opposed to heat straight into the joint

  18. #18
    RCP Fabrication
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by Beatniqwood09 View Post
    Figured it out. The rake (which is the same as offset correct?) was measured at the headset and drawn down from there

  19. #19
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Hey;

    I've had a ton of variously related fabrication experience behind me before building my first frame 6 months ago. The bicycle specific concepts - components & geo - were the only things really new to me. To be starting off at total ground zero with no experience in either is a mega leap!

    (applause!)
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Still needs some miter work but slowly coming together
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My first frame-2012-12-07_17-50-21_872.jpg  


  21. #21
    dru
    dru is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    2,443
    I've only built one myself, but I remember quite well all the worrying and not knowing quite what I was doing. The frame is into its 3rd season and I'm riding it tomorrow morning.

    Yours looks like its coming along quite nicely. You'll be pretty stoked when you ride it.

    I agree completely with Walt about more filler. (and more flux from 'sore legs') When I did mine there were a few joints that needed three separate hits before I had enough filler. All that reheating to brazing temps can't be good for the metal.

    Drew
    occasional cyclist

  22. #22
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Hey;

    Is it an optical illusion, or do the TT & DT seem to nest very close together, relative to the length of the HT?
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    Hey;

    Is it an optical illusion, or do the TT & DT seem to nest very close together, relative to the length of the HT?
    They were designed that way and the HT was left long so a had a little wiggle room for error and brazing. It will most likely be lopped off after the brazing is done. Are there any potential issues having them that close?

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: adarn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    377
    Remember that if you're cutting HT off of the bottom, you are lowering your front end.
    And that looks fine to me. I've seen plenty of builders making frames with the head HT extending further beyond the TT and DT.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by adarn View Post
    Remember that if you're cutting HT off of the bottom, you are lowering your front end.
    And that looks fine to me. I've seen plenty of builders making frames with the head HT extending further beyond the TT and DT.
    Thanks, the definitely makes sense. Just gotta decide whether i want to leave it and not run spacers and cut it down and put spacers. Any opinions?

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    860
    Quote Originally Posted by Beatniqwood09 View Post
    They were designed that way and the HT was left long so a had a little wiggle room for error and brazing. It will most likely be lopped off after the brazing is done. Are there any potential issues having them that close?
    The more spread you can provide between the DT and TT joint the better. Having them join the head tube at the same place is a bad idea because it will make a weaker joint. What you want is two independent joints so the head tube will be well supported and not prone to catastrophic failure..

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,756
    Quote Originally Posted by adarn View Post
    Remember that if you're cutting HT off of the bottom, you are lowering your front end.

    Also, before you take any off the bottom, so a test fit or mock-up with your headset lower cup and Reb fork to make sure there is no risk of contact between the fork adjusters and down tube.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Everything was placed around the bottom of the HT so I definitely wont be taking any off the bottom

  29. #29
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Quote Originally Posted by febikes View Post
    The more spread you can provide between the DT and TT joint the better. Having them join the head tube at the same place is a bad idea because it will make a weaker joint. What you want is two independent joints so the head tube will be well supported and not prone to catastrophic failure..
    Indeed;

    This was my concern, and the reason I questioned it. You should think of the fork, and by extension the HT, as a lever arm. Under braking, that is exactly what it is. The farther apart the TT/DT are on the HT, the less focused and localized the force will be. If you think of the junction of the TT/DT as the fulcrum of a teeter totter, the closer they are to each other, the easier the teeter will totter. The farther apart they are, the harder it is to get it to tip over either way because the load is spread wide. With teeter totters, you like the fulcrum narrow. With HT junctions, not so much.

    I'm not saying it will be a problem for you, but it is something you should at least consider. My Clydesdale HTs at 7" long give me lots of space. I could nest yours INSIDE of mine!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Feldybikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    714
    I think one or two spacers is fine, but a bunch on a custom frame is silly.

    conventional wisdom says the longer the HT, the easier it is on the headset bearings. However, with the HT that much higher than the TT, I'd have to think about if it's worse for frame longevity. I think the answer is that it might be worse for certain impacts in which the lower headset cup = fulcrum; wheel = load #1, upper headset cup = load #2.

    To clarify: I'm talking about the current TT/DT configuration. To eliminate the above issue, I'd do as others suggested and raise the TT. You can probably do this by simply lifting it up (looks like there's plenty on the ST) and potentially shaving just a bit off the HT/DT miter -- will only alter the TT length a tiny bit.

  31. #31
    Harrumph
    Reputation: G-reg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,600
    The super close DT/TT/HT joint doesn't really work out that great for OEM's. I'd look at either getting another TT and re-miter a fresh tube so it fits higher on the HT. Or shorten up the whole front end enough to re-miter everything so you can have as much distance as possible between the DT/TT along the HT that your fit allows. If your fit demands a super short HT...think about not using 29in wheels.

    I've been just tinning the ST/BB and then getting a fat fillet between all once the DT is in place. If able I tack the ST/BB as step one. And tack the DT and chainstays in one sitting to reduce the number of times I bring my torch near the frame.
    Slowly slipping to retrogrouchyness

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,756
    These are the threads anyone considering the close DT/TT approach should read - Failure analysis and Frame Failure, Be Careful

  33. #33
    Moderator Moderator
    Reputation: Walt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,093

    To be fair

    Compound TT/DT joints can be done safely (ie, fully join the DT, clean your tubes before you join them, use appropriate tubing, etc).

    If you can, a longer HT is a good thing, but lots of both production and custom builders have done compound joints at the head tube for decades. It works fine if you do a good job.

    -Walt

    Quote Originally Posted by TigWorld View Post
    This is the thread anyone considering the close DT/TT approach should read - Failure analysis
    Waltworks Custom Bicycles
    Park City, UT USA
    www.waltworks.com
    waltworks.com/blog/
    instagram.com/waltworks/

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Been a busy few weeks, what with exams and helping the family prepare for the holidays. Needless to say havn't had a ton of time to work on my frame. Anyway here are some updated pics of my joints(teehee).

    Oh and in regards to the HT and DT being close together. After some beer and some thinking I realized that with my 70.3 HA and 73 SA, the HT and ST get closer together the further up on them you go. So i shortened up the TT a bit and slid it up a few more MM. I think i'm just about ready to braze the front triangle.

    Cheers!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My first frame-2012-12-18_18-35-15_822.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-18_18-36-07_807.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-18_18-36-41_743.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-18_18-37-49_790.jpg  

    My first frame-2012-12-18_18-38-25_871.jpg  


  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    860
    Your miters look very nice!

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Just a small update, havnt had a ton of time recently. Anyway, I got around to tinning in the down tube and shortly after ran out of O2 so the brazing has been put on halt until we get more. So I started on roughing in the chainstays.
    Pictured are a tire clearance guide that i slapped together and how it stands as i left it this afternoon.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My first frame-2013-01-13_14-53-14_512.jpg  

    My first frame-2013-01-16_18-59-35_883.jpg  


  37. #37
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Uhuh...

    Startin to look like a bike!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    23
    Lookin good!

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Things coming along nicely! Still need to... cut and miter the seat stays, braze the rear end, and lay fillet on head tube, plus all the small things.

    Planning on going to a friend of a friend's house to machine some faux headsets to help maintain headtube shape while i lay fillet on it. This may be unnecessary but with my novice brazing i'd rather play it safe.

    Pretty proud of what iv'e accomplished thus far and Im really excited to see it roll
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My first frame-2013-02-12_18-40-29_834.jpg  

    My first frame-2013-02-12_18-41-00_800.jpg  


  40. #40
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Cool;

    If I might suggest, just for aesthetics, do some serious carvin' on those DOs there. They look kind of... well... agricultural!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  41. #41
    will rant for food
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,639
    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    Cool;

    If I might suggest, just for aesthetics, do some serious carvin' on those DOs there. They look kind of... well... agricultural!
    Just once, I want to see you get rude on the internet.

    Try it! I want to see if you can do it. I think you are physically unable.

    On topic: woooot, keep it up, puts my first frame to shame!
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  42. #42
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Hmmm...

    I can be rude when it is called for, and some posts certainly compel one in that direction. I just thought I would make a suggestion that might improve the look of an already good looking bike frame... in case he had not noticed. If your goal is the largest DO-to-Stay fillet welds of all time, then OK, but otherwise there's no reason not to take the opportunity for some creative expression with that much excess steel available, if it strikes your fancy. That's why we do this, eh?

    No snark intended. Just an opinion. Make use of it as you see fit.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188

    Wishbone

    So, its come to fitting my seatstays. the ones I got in the nova set are straight as an arrow and i have no access to a tube roller/bender of any type. Soo, what are yalls opinions on wishbone seatstays?

    Thanks

  44. #44
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Hey;

    Do you know anyone with a bearing press?



    Some wood forms and ingenuity and you could coax a little bend into them, most likely. Are your stays round or tapered? I don't know where you are or exactly what you are looking for, but if you could provide an scale drawing and I had the right equipment for the tubing (die sizes), I'd be happy to tweak them for you. I have a draw bender and a HF roller with limited die sizes.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    12
    Looks nice, I would like to build my own frame someday. Seems like a really fun project

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Feldybikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    714
    I've done one frame with the Nova wishbone stays. It was actually a softail, so I didn't have to miter the end of the "strut"* part to the seat tube, but I'd wager that it's world's easier than seat stay miters normally are. The ends of the wishbones came premitered. In my case, I had to open them up to make room for the larger OD shock mount, but it was pretty easy. I don't know if they're still premitered or not. I'd be surprised if not. If you don't have a notion of what size you want the strut to be, then I'd ask them what size the miter is for and then make sure you have/order the right tube to make your life easier.

    *by strut, I mean top/single part of the wishbone. I don't know if I'm using this term correctly or if there's another term.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188

    Progress

    Made some progress this afternoon and got the chain stays and the dropouts tinned in. Going to try and get the seat stays cut and mitered in tomorrow.

    The weather is staring to warm up and I really want to finish this soon, plus Iv'e got a bunch of blingy parts lying around and some more in the mail.

    All these plus some paul hubs, stans arch ex's, and some dt swiss competitions
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My first frame-2013-03-20_21-58-46_458.jpg  

    My first frame-2013-03-20_21-59-24_460.jpg  

    My first frame-2013-03-20_22-01-24_206.jpg  

    My first frame-2013-03-13_17-25-53_79.jpg  

    My first frame-2013-01-02_16-29-48_411.jpg  


  48. #48
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,873
    Getting close;

    Only a million more details to go! Enjoy, take your time, and get it like you want it. It seems an eternity now, but it will all be over very soon and then you'll be getting the shakes wanting to build something!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  49. #49
    WIGGLER
    Reputation: todwil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    902
    Cool looks like your building this in the living room....keep on truckin!!!!!
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

    MR. 36er TROLL


  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Beatniqwood09's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by todwil View Post
    Cool looks like your building this in the living room....keep on truckin!!!!!
    Haha yea, the old volvo that was on its side in the garage is now back on all fours and getting motor and tranny. As you can imagine theres $#it everywhere. So i had to relocate to the bike room.

    On another note, I did wind up just getting some new s-bend seatstays so i wont have to worry about bending them or the wishbone idea. The way i have them now they fit just fine with no extra bends

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •