Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Clockwork Bikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    629

    Front Der Direct Mount

    I'm not a big fan of the Paragon front der. direct mount because it's a fairly heavy chunk of steel and I don't like the square der. body against the round mount.

    I pieced together one last summer but it's way too much work to be practical.



    Would you be interested is a design like this? It weighs half as much and should be easy to open up the miter to 1.25" if needed.





    Thoughts, criticisms?

    -Joel
    Last edited by Clockwork Bikes; 02-03-2013 at 03:34 PM.
    NOTHING WORKS LIKE CLOCKWORK

    www.clockworkbikes.com

  2. #2
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    1,713
    Hey;

    Looks like a good solution.

    You might offer one version mitered and one not, just to cover people doing odd non standard applications like curved or forward set seat tubes, etc. That is a double edged sword, of course. A non mitered version is easier to produce and is a more universally adaptable part, but doing two versions complicates production, and inventory.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  3. #3
    Harrumph
    Reputation: G-reg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,575
    I'd be interested in a non mitered version. One of the biggest benefits to the DM is being able to plop it on wherever it needs to be. Pre-mitering puts you basically back to needing the seat tube in the range for a clamp on FD. All of my mounts have ended up slightly to way ahead of the seat tube, so I couldn't use your mitered version at all really.

    My wish list would be longer and wider horizontal tabs, trim to fit for various seat tube angles/sizes/derail location. Stainless would be nice too, as getting/keeping powder/paint would be a challenge.
    Slowly slipping to retrogrouchyness

  4. #4
    pvd
    pvd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pvd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2,803
    It's a nice solution. I'd buy a few.
    The model needs some work though. Add a radius to the corners. A 1/4" radiuse would make it pop.

  5. #5
    Moderator Moderator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,027

    No miter/long tabs

    I mostly use the direct mount setups for very unusual configurations (ie curved/offset seat tubes, fatbikes or other bikes with odd chainlines, etc) so I *always* need to do the mitering myself, and I need a lot of extra tab. The Paragons works fine if I hack them up a bit but this basic idea looks good to me. I assume the backing nut would be brazed in prior to attaching the mount?

    Worth noting, too, that I've done very few of these since XX1 came out. I think the end of the front derailleur (at least for mountain bikes) is nigh.

    -Walt


    Quote Originally Posted by G-reg View Post
    I'd be interested in a non mitered version. One of the biggest benefits to the DM is being able to plop it on wherever it needs to be. Pre-mitering puts you basically back to needing the seat tube in the range for a clamp on FD. All of my mounts have ended up slightly to way ahead of the seat tube, so I couldn't use your mitered version at all really.

    My wish list would be longer and wider horizontal tabs, trim to fit for various seat tube angles/sizes/derail location. Stainless would be nice too, as getting/keeping powder/paint would be a challenge.
    Waltworks Custom Bicycles
    Park City, UT USA
    www.waltworks.com
    waltworks.blogspot.com

  6. #6
    WIGGLER
    Reputation: todwil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    775

    Nice!

    Cool idea making it over sized to be trimmed to fit would be ideal!
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Eric Malcolm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    474
    Good idea.

    My only reservation is mud filling the void. Is this a percieved problem or a non issue?

    I use a piece of 25.4mm top tube off a wreaked frame and a plate, drilled and threaded. It is easy to clean. The TT is .5mm wall, the plate is 5mm, so not much weight either.

    Eric
    If I don't make an attempt, how will I know if it will work?

  8. #8
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,052
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Malcolm View Post
    Good idea.

    My only reservation is mud filling the void. Is this a percieved problem or a non issue?

    Eric
    Functional a non-issue.

    It could fill with mud, but mud is lighter than steel. Would not cause any shifting or clearance problems.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  9. #9
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,052
    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    I assume the backing nut would be brazed in prior to attaching the mount?

    -Walt
    I would be inclined to used a normal hex nut, similar to FD band clamps. It may need to be filed to match the curve of the top of the mount, and that would keep it from spinning. Replaceable, too.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: whydomylegshurt?'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    158
    I bought a stick of 1" square thin wall tube from Mcmaster to build a nearly identical mount. It takes me about 20 minutes with a hacksaw, drill and tube notcher to have a mount built for any seat tube offset. I use a standard M6 nut on the back, but I use a bit a silver to hold it in place.

  11. #11
    Who turned out the lights
    Reputation: Francis Buxton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,114
    Quote Originally Posted by whydomylegshurt? View Post
    I bought a stick of 1" square thin wall tube from Mcmaster to build a nearly identical mount. It takes me about 20 minutes with a hacksaw, drill and tube notcher to have a mount built for any seat tube offset. I use a standard M6 nut on the back, but I use a bit a silver to hold it in place.
    That was exactly what I was thinking (have not done it though).

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Clockwork Bikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    629
    I'm having (25) mitered and (25) non-mitered versions made next week. Once I get them and confirm they work, I'll buy a proper ad. and offer them for sale.

    Thanks, Joel
    NOTHING WORKS LIKE CLOCKWORK

    www.clockworkbikes.com

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •