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  1. #1
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    Frame revision -- Nove sliding rear dropout onto a steel Softride frame

    I'm doing some early research into a mod I'm wanting to perform in the future -- converting a Softride road frame to take disc brakes (so a small angle between the seatstays and chainstays). Also want to increase the clearance for beefier tires (28's are max now). Trying to decide if I just need to put on an entirely new rear triangle... And I'll be fillet brazing.

    Currently has vertical dropouts with short legs to the stays (31mm from axle to tube on each).

    It pretty much needs the high-mount position due to brake routing, but the Paragon rear dropouts just won't work.

    I was wondering about the feasibility of changing them to the Nova sliding rear dropout.


    Looks like it would bring the wheel back, as I'm hoping, could accommodate the low angle between the chain- and seatstays, but I'm wondering about the durability of a fillet joint onto these dropouts, also considering I'd be putting them on an already-built rear end.

    Also, does anyone know where I can get a spec drawing of these dropouts?

  2. #2
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    Your existing chainstays and seatstays will not line up as they're too much closer to the frame centerline.

    -Walt
    Waltworks Custom Bicycles
    Park City, UT USA
    www.waltworks.com
    waltworks.blogspot.com

  3. #3
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    I figured I could spread the rear triangle to the needed width fairly easily. It may be easier to just redo the entire rear triangle, though, as I'd be crimping the stays to gain clearance anyway.

  4. #4
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    THese sliders are a nice affordable addition to the NOVA catalog.
    Quick graphical analysis (done by scaling from the 19mm diameter hood and the 10mm axle slot deminsion) indicates that the center of the hub axle can be adjusted from between 60mm-80mm behind the forward-most surface of the chainstay mounting hood.

    I have done fillet brazed breezer/wright style dropouts, they seem to hold-up fine. Having the axle cantilevered so far behind the chainstay & seatstay with these sliders is perhaps a bit more worrysome but probably is still OK, particularly for a road bike not seeing big air dropsoffs. THe low angle between your CS/SS might actually be a benefit for using these because if you have the seatstay lined up to intersect with center of the axle, much of the cantilevered force is cancled out and the seatstay just needs to contend with compression force, not side-load.

    Why the desire to have sliders, are you converting the softride into a singlespeed? If you dont need sliders, perhaps Novas regular disk brake lasercut plate dropouts would work for you and these feature a regular tabbed juction to the slotted CS&SS that works well for brazing.

  5. #5
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    Also, dont overlook potential for clearance problems between the left chainstay and the disk rotor. Nova's other new disk dropout offering might also work well for you in order to gain rotor/chainstay clearance;
    MTB DISK dropout for 29er and 26er IC :: MTB DROPOUTS :: STEEL DROPOUTS :: DROPOUTS :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.

    It is setup for CS mounted disk caliper but the caliper mount location could always be moved up to the SS (or alter your cable routing so that you can use a CS mount caliper).

  6. #6
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    Dude, if you need that many things to happen - just start from scratch. You're not saving yourself any money or effort and if you start from scratch you can have exactly what you want instead of something that kinda sorta might work.

    -Walt
    Waltworks Custom Bicycles
    Park City, UT USA
    www.waltworks.com
    waltworks.blogspot.com

  7. #7
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    Since the OTHER thing I was looking to do with this frame is to swap the 1" head tube for a 1-1/8" (or even a 1-1/8 - 1-1/4 taper), it's looking more like starting from scratch is the way to go. Finding the frame bits for the forward Softride mount may be problematic, but I can likely fab a replacement.

  8. #8
    RCP Fabrication
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    I built a soft ride a while back, I have been itching to do another. If you need any info I will see what I can remember/find in my notes.

  9. #9
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    Sounds like the BeamMountingThingies from a donor frame need to be cut off and grafted to a from scratch frame. Building a frame from scratch would be much easier and be much better than the Frankensteined thing you're talking about.

    Since the "Top Tube" would need to be straight gauge....Looks like a nice application for a curved TT and seatstays.

    Cripes, now you have me thinking in detail about how to build a Softride frame.....Yuck. Sorry for the negativity, but I assume someone who still rides those things has thick skin on the subject.
    Slowly slipping to retrogrouchyness

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