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  1. #1
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    Expert Consensus: Touch-up or full repaint?

    Please look at the photos below carefully. This is my 2001 Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra project - the day it arrived from the previous owner. As you can see, it has extensive scratching, nicks and peeling paint at the rear dropout from a leaky hydraulic disc brake(Magura Mineral Oil). The seatpost is also chipped up, as well as the head tube and there are significant scratching on the Headshok fork. I'd say paint is missing from roughly 5-10% of the entire frame.

    My big questions to YOU are:

    a) Can this be touched-up, waxed and rubbed out/polished? If so, what is a good touch up paint? Nail polish? plastic model paint, or Automotive touch-up? After all, I assume matte/satin black is fairly easy to cover up. I'm in absolutely no hurry to have this done....but I would like to know what is the best way to bring this frame 95% close to it's original condition? I am steering more towards this option, simply because of budget and lack of professional paint skills, other than a rattle(sic) spray can.

    b) Full chemical strip and repaint. I know LOTS of prep is mandatory, to do this successfully. I'm just afraid of screwing it up, and FUBARing this rare frame. Also, the black Cannondale decals are reflective in light, which is nearly impossible to source/replace. I only paid $100 for this frame/fork....but would hate to spend $200+ to have this done professionally. I clearly lack the skills and confidence, unless I was tutored by a seasoned paint veteran, every step of the way(who has time for all that? LOL).

    Thanx, guys. I appreciate any advice you can impart:













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    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  2. #2
    29er
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    i would get it powdercoated

  3. #3
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    i would get it powdercoated
    Wouldn't that weaken an aluminum frame's welded joints?
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  4. #4
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    no, temperature is too low to effect it in any way

  5. #5
    Nemophilist
    Reputation: TrailMaker's Avatar
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    Pretty hammered;

    - If cosmetics are important to you, then you'll be refinishing it.

    - It it was painted the first time, it will strip "fairly" easily. If it is PC, it will be a ***** & 3/4!

    - You'll likely have to live without the decals in terms of ultimate originality. I would suggest that you have them cut from sign vinyl in gloss black, and over a matte PC they will look similar to what they are now, albeit non reflective and much more fragile. You could go the extra mile and get them cut from reflective vinyl, I suppose.

    - If you provide the stripping, PC will run you $100-150 at most bike friendly PC places. If they strip it, double-to-triple that, as a guess.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    I'm just afraid of screwing it up, and FUBARing this rare frame.
    Just out of curiosity, are you in Germany?

  7. #7
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by jay_ntwr View Post
    Just out of curiosity, are you in Germany?
    No....USA. Many mistake me for a German Weight Weenie LOL
    Last edited by Zachariah; 12-20-2012 at 04:40 PM.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  8. #8
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    Are you sure you want to repaint it? It's a nice frame, I'd just ride it.

  9. #9
    Stokeless Asshat
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    - If you provide the stripping, PC will run you $100-150 at most bike friendly PC places. If they strip it, double-to-triple that, as a guess.
    ?? Sub $200 total is average for a quality job.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan GSR View Post
    no, temperature is too low to effect it in any way
    Actually...the typical PC cure temperature (~400F) is well above the aging temperature for 6061 (320-350F--see the Matweb datasheet below).

    It's the fact that the PC is cured "quickly" that makes it OK on this grade of aluminum. The aging process that develops the strength/toughness in aluminum occurs by diffusion and therefore requires time. If you held it at 400F for an extended time it would definitely soften the aluminum. If you PC, make sure you use a shop that understands this.

    MatWeb - The Online Materials Information Resource

    Nice frame/fork BTW. Personally, if it were mine, I'd have it soda blasted and wet painted (auto shop).
    whatever...

  11. #11
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    I had my Pugs re-coated at a place in North Dakota here. They guy does a really good job and he charges about $150 for a 2 stage color, so in my case a base color and a clear, and 10% for chemically stripping powdercoat. He did a great job on mine and is open to ideas and suggestions. He doesn't mind taking his time and coming up with something unique for his customers! I guess I just found a good shop. Some places nearby that do industrial stuff will not strip but will coat a frame and fork in a limited amount of color options for about $50.
    My motorcycle runs on infant blood

  12. #12
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    Oh yeah, he ships all over too. Here is his post on Craigslist and he posts in the Bike section so you know he actually doesn't mind doing small, custom work. There are pics in his post of my green frame, G-Reg's gray/brown fatbike and his blue 650b frameset.
    Powder Coat your bike parts
    My motorcycle runs on infant blood

  13. #13
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    Does that look like a matte black or satin black finish?
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

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