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  1. #1
    steel is real
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    Changing "hooded" dropouts

    I ride a custom small Spot brand frame with "hooded" track style horizontal dropouts and I would like to change to a vertical dropout with derailleur hanger. I have plenty of fabrication experience with motorcycle frames and old cars, but I don't have a TIG setup to do this with.

    So, would any of you frame builders be interested in taking this on for me?

    Again, going from something like this:
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    To this:
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  2. #2
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    Replacing hooded drops that are joined with TIG is a HUGE pain. Just weld a derailleur hanger onto the existing horizontals and call it good.

    -Walt
    Waltworks Custom Bicycles
    Park City, UT USA
    www.waltworks.com
    waltworks.blogspot.com

  3. #3
    steel is real
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    I thought about doing that Walt... and that may end up being my solution. Do you say it's a huge pain because of the cleanup involved and the possibility of re-coping the tubing?

  4. #4
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    It's almost impossible to remove the old dropouts and leave enough material to join the new dropouts (unless they're significantly bigger, and even then it sucks a lot). Can it be done? Yes. Will it be worth the cost (major, major time and effort)? No way.

    -Walt
    Waltworks Custom Bicycles
    Park City, UT USA
    www.waltworks.com
    waltworks.blogspot.com

  5. #5
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    Any reason that Problem Solvers Chain Tensioner/Derailleur Hanger wouldn't work?

    Universal Cycles -- Problem Solvers Chain Tensioner/Derailleur Hanger
    Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.

  6. #6
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    Do the hooded spots have the back plate for belt drive? If they do, you could probably modify the back plate to hold the hanger (maybe, I'm thinking out loud here). It's been a long time since I built a frame with the Spots.

  7. #7
    steel is real
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcaino View Post
    Any reason that Problem Solvers Chain Tensioner/Derailleur Hanger wouldn't work?
    I have that tensioner/hanger setup and it sits to far out and creates issues with the derailleur moving far enough in to the 36t. Also I had to convert an xt hub to bolt on to get the axle to stay in place well enough.


    Quote Originally Posted by jay_ntwr View Post
    Do the hooded spots have the back plate for belt drive? If they do, you could probably modify the back plate to hold the hanger (maybe, I'm thinking out loud here). It's been a long time since I built a frame with the Spots.
    Jay, my frame is the "split-hood" on the drive side to accommodate a belt drive setup. It does have the back plate, and I'm thinking my best option here is to draw up a replacement backing plate that has a derailleur hanger AND possibly a hole instead of a slot to help position the back wheel where I want it to stay. Then I could just tack a washer on the disc side dropout to keep the wheel square. Only downside to that setup would be the need to pull the quick release all the way out to drop the wheel...

  8. #8
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    I don't know if it works with those two specific dropouts, but I once went from Breezer dropouts to Sub 11s. The OD of the new dropout was close enough to the ID the hood, so I ground out the old dropout and flowed a little brass between the new and old hoods.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr.welby View Post
    I don't know if it works with those two specific dropouts, but I once went from Breezer dropouts to Sub 11s. The OD of the new dropout was close enough to the ID the hood, so I ground out the old dropout and flowed a little brass between the new and old hoods.
    That's a slick idea.

  10. #10
    steel is real
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr.welby View Post
    I don't know if it works with those two specific dropouts, but I once went from Breezer dropouts to Sub 11s. The OD of the new dropout was close enough to the ID the hood, so I ground out the old dropout and flowed a little brass between the new and old hoods.
    That would definitely work if the hoods were sized appropriately. For now, I think I'm going to pursue having a new backing plate machined with a derailleur hanger on it.

  11. #11
    steel is real
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    So I went ahead and gave the backing plate hanger a try myself... Had some 1/4" stainless flat bar so I used the problem solver hanger as a template:


    Beveled the edges a little and got a decent partial penetration weld to join the two. Here it is mounted up:


    Got the bike put back together and I'll give it a try tomorrow.

  12. #12
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    Cool, let us know how it works. I'm not sure if it will be rigid enough but it may be.

  13. #13
    steel is real
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    I went by the LBS and used the hanger alignment tool to get it straightened out. I have to admit that I was a little worried when I started bending the hanger haha. Rode about 14 miles at the local trails and the 1x10 setup performed wonderfully. The only trouble I had was the quick release axle sliding forward on the drive side when I stand up and really wrench the pedals. I'm going to try some chain tensioners, but may end up just tacking a small washer on both sides... or even a half washer to act as a front stop so I can still pull the wheel out without removing the skewer.

    Hopefully I can make this setup work long enough for me to clean out some motorcycles, get a TIG, build a jig and slowly slip into the addiction that will be frame building.

  14. #14
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    Very Nice, glad to hear it's working. FWIW, I wouldn't weld anything to the drops. If you are going to start building your own stuff, that frame will be worth more on the used market with the split dropout and as a single speed / geared bike IMHO. I'd just add the tugs and that look will be your motivation to help get your own project going even faster.

  15. #15
    steel is real
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    Yeah that was my main reason for not tacking something on the other night. I don't know if I would ever sell this frame... doesn't seem to be much retained value in the handmade Spot Brand frames since they went overseas to mass produce. I'll probably use it as a starting point template for a steel geared 29er frame... maybe with the goal of making my frame lighter?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by xmlc216x View Post
    maybe with the goal of making my frame lighter?
    I'd start with a goal of making something that you can ride.

  17. #17
    steel is real
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    Quote Originally Posted by jay_ntwr View Post
    I'd start with a goal of making something that you can ride.
    That will be the first goal for sure.

    Are all your old WWTP threads saved somewhere? I haven't been able to find them searching... just the one listed in the FAQ

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by xmlc216x View Post
    That will be the first goal for sure.

    Are all your old WWTP threads saved somewhere? I haven't been able to find them searching... just the one listed in the FAQ
    They are all still on here somewhere but I can't find them either. The search function for MTBR is totally broken as far as I can tell. Sucks. C'Mon MTBR, fix it already!

    If you click on my username and then click all the threads I've ever posted, they're listed there. It's a real PITA and really takes away from the value of this forum. I think it's a big reason we've seen such a decrease in activity.

  19. #19
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    OT;

    Agreed on the search, Jay. I read every one of your WWTP posts before my first adventure. They were laborious to find then. Search is even more important for an information forum like this.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  20. #20
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    bother Google will find them if you enter the search term:
    site:forums.mtbr.com wwtp
    They seem to be on the second page of results for me

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