Anyone use non-pulse lift tig?

[rideit]

Well, they say 'Run What Ya' Brung' in racing, right?

I happen to have a Thermal Arc 181i combo (mig/tig/stick)

I am all too aware that I should be using a dedicated pulse with remote start (non lift)

Curious if anyone has used this kind of welder to make any sort of usable tubing/thinwall welds, and if so, any advice?

I have been trying to use it to weld together bike chain and cogs for BicyclArt, but all I am doing is making a mess.

Any good tips, folks?

(yeah, I know, buy a miller...tell ya' what, buy 20 BicyclArt pieces, and I will!)

[febikes]

I took a quick look at your site; art is cool but make sure you are careful about bike parts that might have chrome coatings on the metal. Watch out for chromium or nickel coatings on cogs and chains before you torch or grind them.

[rideit]

I have seen a lot of welded cogs and a few bits of chain, tell me, do you know if classic (XT level?) cogs are coated, or hardened steel?
Definitely using 'basic' chain, but damn, is it hard to weld.

[febikes]

just make sure you are careful and get a good respirator to wear under your welding hood.
http://apps.ocfl.net/dept/county_adm...sk/FACT_04.pdf

[Eric Malcolm]

Very clever artwork - inspirational.

Eric

[DWF]

Rideit, you should be fine with lift start or scratch start for what you're doing. Just practice on regular material first. Like FEbikes said, make sure you remove any coatings until you're down to bright, fresh, clean, parent metal before trying to tig it. And yeah, wear a mask even if only a 3M welder's mask. If you use any kind of commercial cleaners on the parts other than denatured alcohol or acetone, make sure you rinse them thoroughly with water and then dry. Do not use engine degreaser, or carb or brake cleaner on anything you're going to weld. Also, do not piss on them unless you're going to let your friends try their hand at welding. Good times.