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Thread: #5 SoFat

  1. #1
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    #5 SoFat

    This is my fifth frame, first was 29er which is POS, but I'm still riding it, about 300h since march . Number 2 was a fixed gear bike, I did about 4000km during the summer. Third was a gravel grinder, actually sits in the basement fully welded without paint or parts, no riding. Fourth frame was a ÜOS lugged road bike, not much riding, but liked it so much that I sold my carbon road bike.

    Now it's time for #5 which is a fat bike.
    Nothing too wild, 70/73 angles with 50mm rake fork and 460mm CS. Clown shoes with Bud's front and rear, 1x10 drivetrain with RaceFace Next SL cranks.

    First I build the fork.





    Next step is to weld and braze the frame.




    Last edited by J_K; 01-18-2014 at 01:24 PM.

  2. #2
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    Love the looks of the fork lugs! Can't wait to see the fork on the frame.

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    Sick! 1X?
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  4. #4
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    Yes, 1x10 with 11-36 cassette and 26t or 28t chainring. I see no reasons for front derailleur when there is as small as 26t narrow wide chainrings available and I want to keep drivetrain as simple as possible.

  5. #5
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    What's the A-C on your fork? I have Fatty frame #2 rolling around in my head and I think a "proper" length fork with more rake than most commercially available fork would help with some of the fatty handling issues.
    Slowly slipping to retrogrouchyness

  6. #6
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    The A-C is 453mm. I did not want fork that's "too long".
    I did even consider 55mm rake, but I ditched that idea. Although, I'm now thinking of building alternative fork with same A-C and 55mm rake.

    What is your "proper" fork length?

  7. #7
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    "Proper" being not suspension corrected for a frame that will never see a suspension fork.
    Slowly slipping to retrogrouchyness

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    Awesome stuff, keep it coming. How much does your fork weigh? What guage tubing did you use for the legs?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-reg View Post
    "Proper" being not suspension corrected for a frame that will never see a suspension fork.
    Yeah, I figured that out after posting. This frame will never see suspension fork.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikecycology View Post
    Awesome stuff, keep it coming. How much does your fork weigh? What guage tubing did you use for the legs?
    The fork with uncut steerer weighs 1208g, steerer is 350mm from the crown race seat to top, so about 150mm extra.
    The legs are 1", but I will leave it up to you to decide what gauge tubing to use.

  10. #10
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    Small progress today, the front triangle and the chainstays are tacked and dropouts are brazed.

    I should have done the chainstays differently, but at least I know now what to do next time.





    Last edited by J_K; 01-18-2014 at 01:25 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_K View Post
    I should have done the chainstays differently, but at least I know now what to do next time.
    How so?
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    How so?
    Bend less to avoid over bending when dimpled and offset mitering to the BB.

  13. #13
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    Everything except the seatstays are now welded.
    I ended up spending way too much time positioning the frame on the vise, so I need to get good solid workstand for making positioning easier.

    My best welds so far, but still lots of room for improvement.
    This is first frame I have back purged and it seems to help a lot.







    Last edited by J_K; 01-18-2014 at 01:25 PM.

  14. #14
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    Very nice!! Welds look great!
    That fork is awesome. HUGE!
    I just did that non-offsetting of the chainstays thing on my 23rd frame...the newb mistakes never stop (at least for me...). Chainstays are the hardest part still for me...a struggle every time.

  15. #15
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    Thanks!
    The fork is really huge, the same can be said about the rear end.

    For me, the hardest part is yet to come, the seatstays. I found that these round chainstays are a lot easier to do than the oval chainstays. Also keep in mind, I'm doing all the mitering by hand using templates.

  16. #16
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    Welds look great!!
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

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    I'm sorry what part of "BIGLY" didn't you understand?

  17. #17
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    Not much happening here.
    The HT is reamed and faced, the BB is also chased and faced. I really love that Cyclus BB tool.
    The seatstay are also mitered, they proved to be as difficult as I had thought it would be.

    One thing I forgot to mention earlier.
    Biggest improvement on welding was changing to weld clockwise, previously I have mainly welded counterclockwise. When welding clockwise it is much easier to focus the arc on the unmitered tube.



    Last edited by J_K; 01-18-2014 at 01:26 PM.

  18. #18
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    +1 on the Cyclus BB facer/reamer, I got one after wasting money on an Ice tools one that broke after 2 frames. Welds look quite nice, not too hot, not too cool, good filler amount
    What welder settings are you using?
    I didn't tackle a fat bike until # 15, all those bends and getting the tires and the cranks and the chainrings to clear was a lot of work! The fat was easier than the knard though.
    That was tight.
    cheers
    andy walker

  19. #19
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    About welder settings, no pulse, no foot pedal other than on/off switch. 35-40amps all joints except the SS-ST where I use about 27amps. I bet you can't use these setting on any other machine than my cheap chinese welder, I think it welds hotter than panel says.

    All the welding is done now, still need to cap the chainstays and the seatstays and add the cable guides and the bridge on the seatstays.
    Welding the seatstay was quite easy as there's some much room aroud the joints.

    welded


    Last edited by J_K; 01-18-2014 at 01:26 PM.

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    Yep, the settings don't match my Miller. I use 135amps for almost everything, 123a to go for something thin. 1pps, so whatever you're doing, keep it up! Nice looking welds however we get there.
    cheers
    andy walker

  21. #21
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    The chainstays are capped, thanks for Clockwork Bikes for the idea!




    Still need to add the seatstay bridge.
    Last edited by J_K; 01-18-2014 at 01:27 PM.

  22. #22
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    Hey;

    I think the SS bridge is useful, but I do not plan to bridge the CS on any future Fat builds. Just collects too much leaf/mud/mung/snow when condition are soft. Contributes to FD icing, BB contamination and general messiness in the BB area. Not worth the hassle and I'm not sure it does anything substantive except take a lot of time and collect debris!
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  23. #23
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    Yep, no plans for the CS bridge, but definitely needs the SS bridge.

  24. #24
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    The frame is ready for the powder coating.

    Silver brazed the SS bridge, to keep the heat minimum and to avoid drawing the dropout faces inwards.


    Last edited by J_K; 01-18-2014 at 01:28 PM.

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    #5 SoFat

    Photos aren't showing up... how about a link to your Photobucket account?

  26. #26
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    Sorry, bandwidth exceeded.
    I'll replace the links later, maybe tomorrow.

    The frame weighs 2135g without the paint.

    Still waiting the frame to get painted so, I started building another fork, same A-C and rake is now 55mm.

  27. #27
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    Pics are now rehosted

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    #5 SoFat

    Looks awesome! Nice on the capped stays, love that look. The seatstay bridge turned out great too!
    Hope you're getting snow to ride when that's built up!

  29. #29
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    I'm still missing the crank arm spacers, hopefully they're here on monday.


  30. #30
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    Suhweet

    Quote Originally Posted by J_K View Post
    I'm still missing the crank arm spacers, hopefully they're here on monday.

    This thing is very nice looking. I love the clownshoes front and rear. Keep us posted when you get it rolling. What kind of weight are you at?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikecycology View Post
    This thing is very nice looking. I love the clownshoes front and rear. Keep us posted when you get it rolling. What kind of weight are you at?
    Thanks. I will show the color once the build is complete. Yes, clown shoes front and rear, also Buds front and rear. I'm running them tubeless.
    If you mean my weigh, I'm about 180lbs. The build should be around 32lbs.

  32. #32
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    Hey;

    Looks sano! Start doing face exercises now to prepare for the perma-grin. Fat Roolz.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  33. #33
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    Are those Jones' bend h bars?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikecycology View Post
    Are those Jones' bend h bars?
    No, they are Answer ProTaper Carbon 720 Enduro 20/20, I've been wanting to try them for some time now.

  35. #35
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    The build is now complete. The color is RAL4010 with sparkle clear coat.






    More than enough clearance.






  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_K View Post
    The build is now complete. The color is RAL4010 with sparkle clear coat.






    More than enough clearance.





    Rock on dude!!!!

    That is damn sexy. Get some shots of it out in the wild. Great job

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikecycology View Post
    Rock on dude!!!!

    That is damn sexy. Get some shots of it out in the wild. Great job
    Thanks!

    I'll get some more shots once I'm able to ride it, great timing of being sick first time in almost two years

    BTW. it weighs 14.56kg

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_K View Post
    Thanks!

    I'll get some more shots once I'm able to ride it, great timing of being sick first time in almost two years

    BTW. it weighs 14.56kg
    Very respectful. Turned out awesome. Looking back, the chainstays looked to be made of 4130. What did you use for the seatstays?

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    Beautiful! What a classic color! You should be proud, it turned out great. If they make a Big Fat Bud you'll be ready!
    Definitely give an update on the ride in the wild. I'm interested in what you think of those cranks, they are on my list of wants...very cool setup.

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    190 rear and cranks on this build?

    Interested in doing a 44 HT, paragon slider version?

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikecycology View Post
    Very respectful. Turned out awesome. Looking back, the chainstays looked to be made of 4130. What did you use for the seatstays?
    The seatstays are 5/8"x0.035" 4130 and the chainstays are 3/4"x0.035" 4130.

    Quote Originally Posted by Meriwether View Post
    Beautiful! What a classic color! You should be proud, it turned out great. If they make a Big Fat Bud you'll be ready!
    Definitely give an update on the ride in the wild. I'm interested in what you think of those cranks, they are on my list of wants...very cool setup.
    Thanks!
    I'm looking forward riding it, luckily there's little bit snow now and lakes are frozen so plenty to ride.
    Overall impresion of the cranks is great, seems to be really stiff and light, whole set with the BB and 28t chainring was 615g. The BB feels little bit cheap compared to the crankarms, plastic BB cup spacers are something I'm not a fan of but I didn't have any aluminium spacers available so had to use them. Rotor BSA30 bottom bracket is much nicer quality, I need to take it out of my road bike and measure if it can be used. I will report how they ride once I'm able to ride, this should be my main ride for coming months.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowtiguy View Post
    190 rear and cranks on this build?

    Interested in doing a 44 HT, paragon slider version?
    Yes, 190mm rear and raceface 190 cranks. I could have used 170 cranks, but I wanted frame to be future proof if there's wider tires available.

    You will find custom builder much nearer you than I'm as I'm in Finland

  43. #43
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    Well here's a couple of green chicklees for the bubbliuos fatty! Turn out great!
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

    MR. 36er TROLL

    I'm sorry what part of "BIGLY" didn't you understand?

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    #5 SoFat

    The pics aren't showing up. Or is it just me?

  45. #45
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    Yep;

    That's really sharp. Very nicely done. Have you ever ridden a Fatty? A bit different ride, mostly in the steering. You also get used to making frequent "suspension adjustments" (tire pressure ). I'd very much like to try the On One type fork rake like you have here to see how it compares. Might buy a pair of their just released carbon forks to try it. The Suomi on the Daily Pics Thread have been lamenting your lack of snow over there. Hopefully that rectifies itself in time for your maiden voyage.

    Kippis!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  46. #46
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    Thanks TrailMaker!
    No, I have not ridden a fatbike. I'm not sure what to expect, but I'm looking forward it I'm planning to play with tire pressures a lot, a quick few hundred meters test ride says that I can lower the pressure from 0.45bar. I run my tires tubeless.
    I was bit worried about the snow conditions, but it's getting a little better.

    It's nice that you speak finnish
    Kippis

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by FTMN View Post
    The pics aren't showing up. Or is it just me?
    Do you still have problems seeing the pics?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_K View Post
    It's nice that you speak finnish Kippis
    Ha.... no...

    I have just about exhausted my Finnish vocabulary right there! However, when you have a very-significant-other with the surname Paulaharju, a proud Suomalainen, you pick up a few bits along the way.

    May I now unofficially welcome you to the Fatbike Forum!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  49. #49
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    Ok, I went for the first ride today, only two and half hours on the easy terrain as I didn't feel that good yet.
    What to say, very much different than anything else I have ridden. At the same time I wanted it to have slower and quicker steering, quicker mostly. And that is with the 55mm rake fork, not the original lugged fork with 50mm rake. The cranks are wide and I mean WIDE, I need some more time get used to them, 66mm wider q-factor than on my 29er. Gearing is spot on, 28x11-36. Climbs very well, but Bud in the rear has some traction issues as expected.
    I need to ride more to get back in shape and I think this bike makes me want to ride more and longer as it opens more routes to ride on.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_K View Post
    Ok, I went for the first ride today, only two and half hours on the easy terrain as I didn't feel that good yet.
    What to say, very much different than anything else I have ridden. At the same time I wanted it to have slower and quicker steering, quicker mostly. And that is with the 55mm rake fork, not the original lugged fork with 50mm rake.
    Fatbike steering takes some time to discern, as there is a lot going on. You have to learn to differentiate between steering inertia caused by the gyroscopic effect of that heavy wheel/tire, that which is caused by surface friction of that large low pressure tire, and frame/fork geo. Different tires also have different steering characteristics. You do get used to most of it, if you give it a chance. Occasionally I still am annoyed by self steer, but not that much anymore. I usually take it as a sign that I am off my game that day, which seems to be pretty accurate.

    The cranks are wide and I mean WIDE, I need some more time get used to them, 66mm wider q-factor than on my 29er.
    I never noticed for a moment, with a 100mm BB. If anything, the wide Q fits my big frame just fine. I know it is a problem fr some folks, but in general I think it is similar to the steering in that it fades from notice over time.

    Gearing is spot on, 28x11-36. Climbs very well, but Bud in the rear has some traction issues as expected.
    You will find a tremendous variation is snow conditions, and that this will have a huge effect on your ability to ride. I tried yesterday in only moderately packed 14" that had been in the sun all day, and it was a huge failure. For purposes of discovery alone, I very much wanted to get out on it this morning in its cold dry state after the 10*F (-12C) night, but I'm too lame & lazy from 2 days of snow shoeing!

    I need to ride more to get back in shape and I think this bike makes me want to ride more and longer as it opens more routes to ride on.
    You have already discovered the essence and singular beauty of the Fatbike experience. Good show. You also want to ride more to show off that beauty!!
    Last edited by TrailMaker; 12-23-2014 at 08:26 AM.
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  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    Fatbike steering takes some time to discern, as there is a lot going on. You have to learn to differentiate between steering inertia caused by the gyroscopic effect of that heavy wheel/tire, that which is caused by surface friction of that large low pressure tire, and frame/fork geo. Different tires also have different steering characteristics. You do get used to most of it, if you give it a chance. Occasionally I still am annoyed by self steer, but not that much anymore. I usually take it as a sigh that I am off my game that day, which seems to pretty accurate.
    Yep, you're quite right there. It takes time to get used to it. No self steering so far.

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    I never noticed for a moment, with a 100mm BB. If anything, the wide Q fits my big frame just fine. I know it is a problem fr some folks, but in general I think it is similar to the steering in that it fades from notice over time.
    My cranks are even wider than moonlader versions, these have 222mm Q. At the start of the ride my knees were pointing outwards, but at the end of the ride they were back to normal and pointing inwards. That's a good sign.

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    You will find a tremendous variation is snow conditions, and that this will have a huge effect on your ability to ride. I tried yesterday in only moderately packed 14" that had been in the sun all day, and it was a huge failure. For purposes of discovery alone, I very much wanted to get out on it this morning in its cold dry state after the 10*F (-12C) night, but I'm too lame & lazy from 2 days of snow shoeing!
    I should have wrote that the gearing is spot on so far. No problems on 6" of snow and I was middle of the cassette. Mostly I was able to use higher gear than on my 29er.
    We had 0°C, and it was raining sleet

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    You have already discovered the essence and singular beauty of the Fatbike experience. Good show. You also want to ride more to show off that beauty!!
    Yes, I was more relaxed when riding than ever, no rush to get back.

  52. #52
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    JK;

    As mentioned, there are many types - and variables associated with each - of steering character in Fatties. Self steer - as I define it - is mostly surface dependent, when speaking of the tire drag sort. Obviously it is less apparent in the snow, super low pressures excepted - and is most notable in dry/high grip conditions. The gyroscopic type is obviously most notable at speed. It's not a question of if, but when you will experience it. Learning to decipher between the various causes and outcomes takes time and study, and is somewhat key to knowing what corrections you might undertake to improve it.

    I have not tried anything other than old style downhill type 100mm BBs used on 170 builds. At the price of the ones you have used, I'm not likely to stray from what I know, either. Yikes! Outside of my budget. For myself, I doubt the width would bother me, but I know that some people can't get used to the width at all, suffering physical pain. Really too bad for them!

    You will also find that snow that is perfect at the start of a ride seems to "go away" as the temps rise, and vice-versa. Day-to-day, hour-to-hour, sun-into-shade even. The closest thing I can liken it to is bowling, for anyone experienced with that game. The only thing you can usually count on is that things will change, and you have to learn how to adapt either your style and/or your equipment. Sometimes, you just can't at all!

    Whatever, make sure to ride the snot out of that beauty!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  53. #53
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    Cracked chainstay . After welding this joint I think I was thinking this is going to crack.

    I need to fix it somehow and I'm not sure what is best option, maybe replacing whole chainstay.


  54. #54
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    PASKAA!

    That's a bummer. Been cracked for quite a spell, eh? Only the last couple of MMs are fresh. Almost certainly an undercut puddle in the CS. I can't see doing much else but replacing the stay. Too nice a bike to cobble!

    Makes me think about my own frames. I have regretted putting in a CS bridge, but... maybe not. They sure do catch a lot of crud, but seeing this, maybe that extra load is worth it? I have ridden the flat crap out of mine - all season pounding - and no problems. The next bike has been rolling around in my head lately. Hmmmm.....

    (Finnish color kindly provided by my Sweet Suomalainen)
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  55. #55
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    Dang! thanks for the update however. I've been using deda 29r+ stays and doing extra bending/dimpling. Guess I'll be waiting until the first failure to see if they are any good.
    cheers
    andy walker

  56. #56
    J_K
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    Yep, it has been cracked some months now, I actually wanted to see how the crack evolves. I'm also thinking an undercut is causing this and that acute miter angle doesn't help either.

    I will offset miter new chainstay to the BB and bend it differently. I might even add a CS bridge.

    I'll try to fix it later this week so I can ride it.

    Pics to come when the fix is done.

  57. #57
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    Hey;

    I think I'd worry less about the tubes and more about the weld. I tried to keep about 20mm distance between my welds and the end of the BB housing. I think my CS bends were somewhere around 27*. My welding is not nearly up to even your standards, but one thing that might have worked in my favor here - and part of the reason my welds are so gloppy - is that I was using 3/32" rod. I never even considered it, but in hindsight, certainly 1/16" or .032 would have required less heat and given a better flow. I simply used what the local welding supply carried. However, I was also able to very easily achieve generous fillets, and this might be helpful in these areas.

    In any event, I am nobody's idea of a hammerhead, but I am pretty big and ride my bikes hard. I would skip the stay bridge without hesitation next time, but would not discount the notion of this type of failure either. I'd take that chance for less mung/slush buildup!

    Onnea, and keep us posted!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  58. #58
    J_K
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    Hey;

    I think I'd worry less about the tubes and more about the weld.
    Yes, I'm not worried about the tubes, it's most definitely weld issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    I tried to keep about 20mm distance between my welds and the end of the BB housing. I think my CS bends were somewhere around 27*. My welding is not nearly up to even your standards, but one thing that might have worked in my favor here - and part of the reason my welds are so gloppy - is that I was using 3/32" rod. I never even considered it, but in hindsight, certainly 1/16" or .032 would have required less heat and given a better flow. I simply used what the local welding supply carried. However, I was also able to very easily achieve generous fillets, and this might be helpful in these areas.
    My welding is not that good but I keep trying to get better, I keep strugling on some of the acute angles.
    I'm using 1mm ER312 filler rod and would have liked to use at least .045" rod on the CS to the BB weld, but didn't have any available. I'll use next time .045" 880t rod as I got some from the Henry James.

    I cut the old chainstay of and did rough clean up, hopefully most of the work is done tomorrow. The bottom bracket cups are still in place as I forgot the correct bottom bracket tool at home.







    I have also started to build another fatbike for skinnier tires, but it still will take ~115mm tires. Shorter chainstays with adjustable dropouts, but nothing too extreme otherwise.


  59. #59
    J_K
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    Almost done, only some clean-up to do.

    The bend matches the drawing.


    Better than the failed weld, but still a lot of room for improvement.





    New driveside chainstay has different profile and is also offset to the centreline of the BB.

  60. #60
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    The welds look good to me a little paint and no one would even know!!
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

    MR. 36er TROLL

    I'm sorry what part of "BIGLY" didn't you understand?

  61. #61
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    My...

    ... but isn't someone motivated? Must be snow in Finland this year!

    Interesting that your bend is nearly identical to mine at 27*, yet mine being for 100mm BB and 3.8 tires.

    Interesting side story from there; When I laid mine out for The Kroozer, and contemplated the longest length of rearward projecting stay I could get (for heel clearance), at the 11th-and-1/2 hour, after already starting the build and realizing my planned path would not work, I stumbled upon the idea of coming in from the back side of the DO tab. I worked out my clearances for rotor and cogset, and then drew the bend in the tube. I subsequently measured what I had simply drawn to fit, and it was dead on ... 27*!

    Welds look pretty nice!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    My...

    ... but isn't someone motivated? Must be snow in Finland this year!
    That's right, as we now have some snow it really motivated me to get this done now.

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    Interesting that your bend is nearly identical to mine at 27*, yet mine being for 100mm BB and 3.8 tires.

    Interesting side story from there; When I laid mine out for The Kroozer, and contemplated the longest length of rearward projecting stay I could get (for heel clearance), at the 11th-and-1/2 hour, after already starting the build and realizing my planned path would not work, I stumbled upon the idea of coming in from the back side of the DO tab. I worked out my clearances for rotor and cogset, and then drew the bend in the tube. I subsequently measured what I had simply drawn to fit, and it was dead on ... 27*!

    Welds look pretty nice!

    Main reason why 27* bend works is those 222mm q-factor cranks, I still added small dimpled on the new chainstay.
    BTW. I really like The Kroozer chainstays!

    Still have ~10mm tire to the chainstay clearance and the crankarm clearance is now better than it was before.


    Needs new paint, but that can wait.

  63. #63
    J_K
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    Pink bike is now retired.

    This one replaced it. 415-435mm chainstay length, and only for max. ~110mm rear tires.








  64. #64
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    Very nice! I bet you like that 415mm cs length, should be a really fun bike to ride.
    andy walker

  65. #65
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    Hey;

    I really like the green with pink accent. Sharp! I don't suppose you notice any untoward result from the ST-to-DT attachment?
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  66. #66
    J_K
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    Quote Originally Posted by afwalker View Post
    Very nice! I bet you like that 415mm cs length, should be a really fun bike to ride.
    andy walker
    Thanks!

    That CS length was my main goal on this frame and I think it works perfectly. It's a really fun bike to ride, I'm impressed how well and easy it climbs.

    Quote Originally Posted by TrailMaker View Post
    Hey;

    I really like the green with pink accent. Sharp! I don't suppose you notice any untoward result from the ST-to-DT attachment?
    Thanks!

    Sorry, but it's candy teal with purple

    On my first ride I didn't notice any untoward results from the ST-DT attachment. This is actually second time I have done it that way. This I used True Temper 1-1/2" 1/.7/1 downtube.

    A few build pics






















  67. #67
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    Frame turned out great! What are the ST's made with?
    PAYASO 36er.....Live the Circus

    MR. 36er TROLL

    I'm sorry what part of "BIGLY" didn't you understand?

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by todwil View Post
    Frame turned out great! What are the ST's made with?
    Thanks!

    The seatstay are three piece Garro style, 5/8" tapering to 1/2". Top part is 5/8"x.035" then 5/8"x.058" sleeve machined to fit inside the 5/8"x.035" tube and then the lower part is 1/2"x0.035". Silver brazed and then bend.






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