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  1. #26
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    I saw your comments in the other thread in the shock/suspension forum, thanks for the kind words here and also there.

    Good questions. I would say that you could calculate the very maximum IFP volume/depth by determining the point at which it almost touches the damper rod/piston on full compression. Full compression would need to factor in the bumpstop being crushed to almost nothing. I would say you would need a clearance, say 2-3mm for safety.

    The most I have tried is 15mm IFP depth, but this gave a very linear feeling to the shock, and it flew through the travel too easily. I personally didn't like this, but with your XTD shock you could play around with this setting on the trail.

    Bleeding the shock 'my' way offers repeatability, and it is also alot less messy. I can have the shock out of the frame in 5 mins, washed, stripped, oiled, bled, assembled and washed again in a further 20 mins, and another 5 mins to refit it to the bike. So in a half hour or so I can experiment with a setting that does make a very noticeable difference.

    Small bump compliance comes by having less air pressure to start with, but you lose some platform firmness. I happen to like the platform to feel firm, its the main reason I have the Foes. So for that reason I have settled on a very high pressure, I have it written down, pretty sure I am on 90psi ATM. Take notes of the settings you use, then add comments to them when you have ridden the particular settings, this way you have a record of what feeling the settings give.

    Try it, you can feel a difference.

  2. #27
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    I read that you add oil from the top, exactly how do you do that? I just don't understand how to get oil "underneath" the IFP without introducing air? Thanks for the help.

    I understand and agree with all of your points. Greatly appreciated

  3. #28
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    Ok, add the oil first, all the way to the top. This makes bleeding the shock easier. After bleeding, take the IFP, theres a hole in the top of it with a small screw. Take the screw out, pop the IFP back in the shock, set the height(this is the only really messy bit). Replace the bleed screw, and empty the remaining oil back into the oil bottle and reassemble the shock. Done.


  4. #29
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    Interesting. I was looking at that screw but figured it wouldn't work as the IFP would rotate when you try to snug it up. Teflon / No teflon, anything needed to make it seal?

  5. #30
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    There's a tiny oring, snugs it up just fine.

  6. #31
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    Didn't take long to think about the hubs, ordered them during the week, and took even less time to arrive.



    The monkey in the shop also convinced me to get the matching jockey wheels too, even tho I really dont need them. They are nice tho....

    Also in the pic above are a pair of Raceface turbines, which are my new favourite crankset. These are used, picked up from eBay. These have slightly bigger rings than the ones borrowed from my Yeti, 28-40, so should pair well with a 11-36 cassette when I go ten speed.

    I also ordered a pair of Hope quick release skewers, I have adapted part of the front to marry up to the RS Maxle, so I now have a Hope Maxle hybrid.




  7. #32
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    This last week has seen some far from settled weather, but I have managed a few rides. Both weekends saw a visit to the Forest of Dean, and I only just remembered to take a pic at the top of the last DH section this afternoon.



    No complaints from the bike as such, apart from the rear quick release may not have been done up tight enough as the wheel had moved quite a bit in the frame at the bottom of this downhill section. I thought the axle may have snapped which I have seen in the past with first generation pro2 hubs, but having taken it to bits just now all seems well.

  8. #33
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    The last of the components arrived this week for the new wheels, got around to building them today.



    Not fitted to the bike yet, I am going ten speed at the same time and those parts have started to arrive too.


  9. #34
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    Now, the brakes on the bike at the moment are borrowed from my Cotic. They are Hope tech X2's and normally perform faultlessly. I have been a fan of Hope kit for years, and dont usually have a problem with braking power/performance. After a mid week night ride this week I noticed that the rear brake was pretty poor, so investigated.

    The pads were shot which was a surprise as the pads were new only in November, and they had worn unevenly. Closer inspection revealed that the rear discmount/dropout has some over hanging weld that was interfering with the disc mount. I rode the bike, mud and all into the LBS this afternoon and used the disc facing tool to straighten things out.



    Please forgive the dodgy iphone image, its all i had to hand. You can clearly see there was alot of material in the way. A new set of pads later and braking is back to normal.

  10. #35
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    Fed up of the orange, and I planned to red this up from the outset.




  11. #36
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    I like the red better, it has to be red, foes are red.

    While the bike is in pieces, I am going to give everything a thorough clean, and service some bits. The rest of the bike is new, or nearly new. But it has had a hard couple of months, and the reverb was starting to lose air during the course of a ride.



    On the right is one of the air seals, I found the torn away piece in the lower so it had been squeezed past the top out bumper. This was possibly a fault in assembly, as it would have been a tight squeeze.
    On the left is a 10mm spacer I machined, to reduce the available travel to 115mm. Works perfectly.



    And all clean, ready for reassembly. No more difficult to service than a pair of air forks, really glad I bought the tools and did it myself.

  12. #37
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    That's awesome!
    my B+W landscape photos ....www.f45.com

  13. #38
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    Cheers katana. You don't by any change have a soft spot for suzukis?

  14. #39
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    This isn't a proper update, as the bike is pretty much fully built. The LBS has ordered me a set of Hope brakes, just waiting for them to come in.

    The frame was treated to a new set of bearings all round, seemed daft to put the old ones in even tho they felt ok. To help fit the main pivot bearings, i made a tool to draw them in, rather than belting them with le hammer.



    I also picked up a decal kit from ebay, tho not technically the correct set as they are for a 4x, its close enough and crucially half the price of retail.... They look perfect fitted, tho I don't have a pic handy.

    I sold the Renthal bars I was using, TBH hated the feel of them. Having ridden a few bikes with Burgtec bars, I was pretty happy to be donated a pair as the bend on them is really comfortable.



    These were taken to be bead blasted to remove the anodising, and promptly powder coated white.

    Proper update this weekend.

  15. #40
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    Mini-mini update, regarding a titanium spring. This:-



    turned up on ebay a few weeks ago, attached to a broken 4x frame. I enquired with the seller about the spring rate, and he had it measured, the result was 450lb. Having made an offer for the shock only, we made a deal. It arrived this morning, and I popped over to my local suspension tuner, who I know very well, and used one of his tools to double check the rate.



    The rate is exactly 450lb, which is surprising as a spring labelled '450' can usually measure anywhere between about 440-460. It is now fitted to the bike, and I am going to collect the brakes from the shop tomorrow.

    I was also interested in buying the shock as it is XTD version, and I wanted to see if I could use the parts on this bike.

    Upon stripping the shock, i was horrified to see the state of the oil. Not only was it black, but it was v smelly.



    Although smelly oil isn't usually anything to worry about, black oil is. Something was worn inside and was depositing aluminium in the oil.Turns out the piston glide ring was completely worn, as was the piston oring, so the piston itself was rubbing on the shock body.



    So much so that I assume the bearings were worn in the frame, and putting huge side loads on the shock. The shock bushes however feel brand new.

    So, the shock stripped.



    In no hurry to put it back together, I may get some parts made so that I can use this shock in the xtc, but I think it will be easiest to contact Foes to get the correct parts as spares, rather than make them. I would like to try a xtd shock, as the architecture is much more complicated inside, and I think the feel would be very different.

    In the finish, the spring coming off is 444g, the ti spring going in is 230g. Happy, me.

  16. #41
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    I've heard many people converted the ITD shock to an XTD shock, because the XTD just worked/felt better...
    my B+W landscape photos ....www.f45.com

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by kanerdog1x1 View Post

    Although smelly oil isn't usually anything to worry about, black oil is. Something was worn inside and was depositing aluminium in the oil.Turns out the piston glide ring was completely worn, as was the piston oring, so the piston itself was rubbing on the shock body.

    I wonder if my XTD was doing this. It makes sense with how it felt on compression and rebound. I sent it back twice trying to get it fixed and the first time they said it was good, the 2nd time they said they rebuilt it, but it always felt terrible. Although I attributed it to the damping which isn't as speed sensitive as most any other shock (hit a sharp bump at high speed and it was like a jackhammer), this could have been contributing greatly if it was the case. The shock was new and did it from the start, yet a problem with the glide ring would greatly explain how it felt.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  18. #43
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    I would be very surprised if this type of wear would show in any less time than three or four seasons use without service, the hard anodised coating on the shock bodies is very robust. I have never seen this amount of wear before on a shock, but it is common on fork stanchions.

    I would love to transfer the xtd parts onto my frame, but I am missing a few parts to make it work. No rush.

    In other news, the bike is built, sans pedals. looks really nice, bright.

  19. #44
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    Picks dammit!!!!!!

  20. #45
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    Finished.



    The bars refinished in white powder coat, to match the forks.



    The ti spring fitted, and the dropper guide cleaned up and polished.





    2x10 gear fitted now.



    Profile shot.



    Brake rotors are 203mm front, and 183mm rear, i like the power and balance this combination affords. The chainstay protector is simply neoprene sheet, 3mm I think, with self adhesive backing. I have never tried it before in this application, time will tell if it is effective or not.

    Very happy with the outcome, should get out on it on Monday and/or Tuesday.


  21. #46
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    Looks fantastic, I like the way the lowest spot on the top tube is actually out in the middle where it actually adds to the standover.
    Last edited by slowrider; 05-27-2013 at 08:14 PM.

  22. #47
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    Looks really awesome man! I bet it's an absolute blast on the trails.

    I've made a lot of changes to my XCT as well. Last change I want to make is from 3x9 to 1x9 drive train. Still breaking in the Curnutt Air. I'll throw up a post update with pics in a few weeks.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by kanerdog1x1 View Post
    I would be very surprised if this type of wear would show in any less time than three or four seasons use without service
    I had piston drag that eventually caused the separation of the piston head on my romic shock over a time period of about 2 weeks. Shock ended up literally coming apart. Before that, it had just been rebuilt a 2nd time to fix being blown. There's usually a glide ring that goes around a piston, or o-rings, or something, but if it's not machined right, something's crooked due to QC, or not assembled right, this would happen and I'd think the time span would just depend on how screwed up it is.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  24. #49
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    Long time, no update. I have been enjoying the summer, it's a scorcher!

    Keep forgetting to take pics while I am out, mostly because one of my riding buddies has discovered Strava, so is trying so hard to beat me on certain sections. We hardly ever stop now, unless someone crashes!

    Anyway, this evening I took a short ride out on my own, just before sunset as it is the only time of day worth riding in, as I find it impossible to get up early....



    Happy with that, and taken with the iphone.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by kanerdog1x1 View Post
    Long time, no update. I have been enjoying the summer, it's a scorcher!

    Keep forgetting to take pics while I am out, mostly because one of my riding buddies has discovered Strava, so is trying so hard to beat me on certain sections. We hardly ever stop now, unless someone crashes!

    Anyway, this evening I took a short ride out on my own, just before sunset as it is the only time of day worth riding in, as I find it impossible to get up early....



    Happy with that, and taken with the iphone.
    Wow, where is that. Reminds me of section of trail I used to ride in the Chilterns....
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