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  1. #201
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    The 203mm seems to fit fine with the stanchion guards. I was assuming the issue is torsional as Nurse Ben suggests. On rotor size - yes pad contact area is a significant factor, but so is the diameter of the disc. With a larger disc, less pressure is required at the pads (and the finger) to provide the same stopping force - picture the disc as a fan of levers. Same amount of heat energy generated per stop (after all that is where the energy goes) but as NB stated, it is dissipated quicker with a larger disc.

  2. #202
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    I am 250 with gear and use 180 rotors on a set of Guide RSC and have not once wanted more stopping power.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    I am 250 with gear and use 180 rotors on a set of Guide RSC and have not once wanted more stopping power.
    I will try, since it is a long time ago I tried 180 rotors. Last time I was really disappointed whith brake Power.

  4. #204
    vmk
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    I printed stanchion guards for my older Wren. I can't upload stl-file here, but if anyone want's it just let me know and I can share it somewhere else.
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...2/DSC_0354.JPG
    Painted:
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...2/DSC_0356.JPG

  5. #205
    pit
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    Hi,

    I 've read this thread with interest. I've got a bluto in front of my Mutz and i hate the feeling of this fork. It doesn't match the rear of the bike and it doesn't seem to be stiff enough (i live in france, i ride in Nice backcountry and in the Alps sometimes. So the ground is rocky, dry and hard with long climbs and gnarly trails; not especially fast downhills, i rather enjoy technical and slow downhills ).

    Is the Wren really a good combo with the Mutz ? Does it feel like noodle in tight turns or under "hard" braking ?

    I'm over 100 kgs with equipement and hydration bag.

    Ho.....and i've got 200 mm brake in the front and rear.....(Magura MT5, i like them a lot)

    Thanks,



    Steve

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by pit View Post
    Hi,

    I 've read this thread with interest. I've got a bluto in front of my Mutz and i hate the feeling of this fork. It doesn't match the rear of the bike and it doesn't seem to be stiff enough (i live in france, i ride in Nice backcountry and in the Alps sometimes. So the ground is rocky, dry and hard with long climbs and gnarly trails; not especially fast downhills, i rather enjoy technical and slow downhills ).

    Is the Wren really a good combo with the Mutz ? Does it feel like noodle in tight turns or under "hard" braking ?

    I'm over 100 kgs with equipement and hydration bag.

    Ho.....and i've got 200 mm brake in the front and rear.....(Magura MT5, i like them a lot)

    Thanks,



    Steve
    You will for sure find that the Wren is doing the change of the Mutz behaviour like you are missing With the Bluto. I felt that the Bluto made restriction of the use of the bike and of course it did not keep up in rough terrain.

  7. #207
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    First ride report on Wren 150/150.
    Wren at 60psi, full 150mm travel; Damper 3/4 towards fast; Foes Mutz Large; Minion FBF + Ground Control rear. Trails very dry and firm. I'm 95kg in my birthday suit. 6' 2"" (sorry for the metric/imperial mix'n'match)
    I'm amazed by how plush this fork felt on the first ride. No sign of any stiction. Was used to a 120mm Bluto but had that set very firm to prevent bottoming out despite using three tokens. Having done the bar twisting with wheel between knees test, I was quite concerned by how much rotational flex there was, but no sign of that whatsoever on the trail.
    I was expecting the bike to feel really slack (I thought I didn't like slack geometry), but it just feels right. I'm also liking the effect of the extra AC length, with the front a bit higher it just feels spot on for me. Haven't measured the BB height, but I thought I noticed the difference (improvement). The front end is now much more reassuring compared to the Bluto. I felt the Wren was much more solid than the Bluto under braking. I can't say that I ever noticed the Bluto flexing under cornering loads - either I'm insensitive to that or just too slow!
    I got two PRs on steep technical sections without really trying (although the trails were super dry and quick). I didn't tackle any really steep climbs, so the extra height at the front may become an issue when I get more miles in. I didn't use all the travel, so might try dropping the pressure a bit next time, although the fork was responding so nicely, I may just leave it alone for now. I haven't quite got my head around the twin filling procedure yet and feel like I lucked out for my first ride.
    The only negative I can see is the faff to get the brake cable routing set properly. It took me quite a while but for my setup, the trick was to put an extra twist in the hose to direct the cable away from the wheel when the fork compresses.
    So, first impression is all good, I'm hoping that continues.
    Oh yes - the mention earlier in this thread about loose steerers. I have experienced that on another make of fork and although I didn't crash, it is my worst nightmare. So despite the assurance on this thread that these were isolated instances and the manufacturing process has since changed, I found myself checking that the steerer was still straight at every opportunity. I'm sure I will forget about that soon or at least not think about it any more often that I think about front tyres rolling off rims etc. Yes I am a complete wuss.

  8. #208
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    The slack is not terrible at 150mm travel, though I dropped it to 130mm and I feel like that rides a little better, lower stack, better standover, STA is closer to normal. The 10mm clip is coming in the next month, which will allow a 140mm travel setting.

    The thing about some folks not noticing the Bluto being sloppy, is you really need to be pushing any fork to notice it's weaknesses. Most folks are riding a Bluto on a hardtail fatbike, so it's just not gonna flex much because they're riding tame terrain.

    I just got back from BC, I used all of my suspension, over and over, about ever fifteen to twenty feet down the trail! If I'd had a Bluto I would have skipped the advanced trails, but with the Wren I hung with the big boys/girl.

    The Wren is a solid fork, no real weaknesses, I'm not even thinking about the loose steerer. Front end wiggle is there, but you can only notice it when the bike is in a stand, on the trail it is a non issue; typical inverted fork.

    For a brake line guide, try a cable guide from an external dropper, I run mine on the front of the leg, above the stanchion guard ~ 150mm up.

    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    First ride report on Wren 150/150.
    Wren at 60psi, full 150mm travel; Damper 3/4 towards fast; Foes Mutz Large; Minion FBF + Ground Control rear. Trails very dry and firm. I'm 95kg in my birthday suit. 6' 2"" (sorry for the metric/imperial mix'n'match)
    I'm amazed by how plush this fork felt on the first ride. No sign of any stiction. Was used to a 120mm Bluto but had that set very firm to prevent bottoming out despite using three tokens. Having done the bar twisting with wheel between knees test, I was quite concerned by how much rotational flex there was, but no sign of that whatsoever on the trail.
    I was expecting the bike to feel really slack (I thought I didn't like slack geometry), but it just feels right. I'm also liking the effect of the extra AC length, with the front a bit higher it just feels spot on for me. Haven't measured the BB height, but I thought I noticed the difference (improvement). The front end is now much more reassuring compared to the Bluto. I felt the Wren was much more solid than the Bluto under braking. I can't say that I ever noticed the Bluto flexing under cornering loads - either I'm insensitive to that or just too slow!
    I got two PRs on steep technical sections without really trying (although the trails were super dry and quick). I didn't tackle any really steep climbs, so the extra height at the front may become an issue when I get more miles in. I didn't use all the travel, so might try dropping the pressure a bit next time, although the fork was responding so nicely, I may just leave it alone for now. I haven't quite got my head around the twin filling procedure yet and feel like I lucked out for my first ride.
    The only negative I can see is the faff to get the brake cable routing set properly. It took me quite a while but for my setup, the trick was to put an extra twist in the hose to direct the cable away from the wheel when the fork compresses.
    So, first impression is all good, I'm hoping that continues.
    Oh yes - the mention earlier in this thread about loose steerers. I have experienced that on another make of fork and although I didn't crash, it is my worst nightmare. So despite the assurance on this thread that these were isolated instances and the manufacturing process has since changed, I found myself checking that the steerer was still straight at every opportunity. I'm sure I will forget about that soon or at least not think about it any more often that I think about front tyres rolling off rims etc. Yes I am a complete wuss.

  9. #209
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    Thanks for the tip on the cable guide I have been struggling with the idea of how to route brake lines on this fork. I found several options on ebay that should solve the issue.

  10. #210
    pit
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    Heheheeeee, many thanks Rumblefish, Romnruk and Nurse Ben for you thoughts/first impressions about this fork, it helps me a lot....

    ....i think i'll change my fork in the next few monthes for a Wren in 150 mm. I've seen there's a new distributor for Europe (Crank Nuts UK). I hope it will change the feeling of the Mutz


    Cheers



    Steve from France

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by pit View Post
    Heheheeeee, many thanks Rumblefish, Romnruk and Nurse Ben for you thoughts/first impressions about this fork, it helps me a lot....

    ....i think i'll change my fork in the next few monthes for a Wren in 150 mm. I've seen there's a new distributor for Europe (Crank Nuts UK). I hope it will change the feeling of the Mutz


    Cheers



    Steve from France
    The Bluto holds the Mutz back> Running a Bluto is not unlike running a 120mm travel Reba on a AM bike; you just can't run a noodley short travel fork on a bike that has big bones, big wheels, and 140mm of swingarm travel.

    For perspective, the trails I rode this past weekend in BC:

    Sumas Mountain (Knob Gobbler, etc) - Sumas Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    Rode everything at Tamihi - Tamihi (Chilliwack River) Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    The Wren hangs with the big boys, everyone else was running a Pike or similar, with a minimum 140mm of travel. I was jumping, running big lines, going fast, and I never felt like I needed more fork.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the cable guide I have been struggling with the idea of how to route brake lines on this fork. I found several options on ebay that should solve the issue.
    RockShox Reverb Hydraulic Line Frame Guide

    This is similar to the one I run on both Wren: RockShox Hydraulic Cable Tubing Line Hose Frame Guides 2 Guides Fits Reverb | eBay

    Works perfect, you just need to find the sweet spot for placement. I'm running SRAM Guides, they have an adjustable line position, I have the hyraulic line angled up the leg, the line guide is positioned on the front of the leg, in line with the stanchion protector, ~150mm up from the stanchion protector.
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 05-17-2016 at 08:29 AM.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    RockShox Reverb Hydraulic Line Frame Guide

    This is the one I run on both Wren: RockShox Hydraulic Cable Tubing Line Hose Frame Guides 2 Guides Fits Reverb | eBay

    Works perfect, you just need to find the sweet spot for placement. I'm running Guides, they have an adjustable line position, I have mine angled up the legs, the line guide is positioned on the front of the leg, in line with the stanchion protector, ~150mm up from the stanchion protector.
    Do you mind posting a pic of the placement?
    Collection of fun carbon & titanium bikes

    @tgi_cycling

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  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by EBG 18T View Post
    Do you mind posting a pic of the placement?
    Yeah, I just need to go home, snap a pic, then I'll post it tomorrow.

    It also helps to have the brake line short enough so there's room for it to extend vertically.


    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160516_211620_resized.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160516_211640_resized.jpg
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 05-17-2016 at 08:08 AM.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Yeah, I just need to go home, snap a pic, then I'll post it tomorrow.

    It also helps to have the brake line short enough so there's room for it to extend vertically.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks. I just ordered some of the guides you linked to. Gotta install the Goodridge Stainless lines this weekend. These guides should work out perfect.
    Collection of fun carbon & titanium bikes

    @tgi_cycling

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  16. #216
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    Russ and I were talking about setup, here is some new tuning info for you-

    "Our suggestion is to start with 30 pounds top and bottom - be sure you start from empty - and set your sag. Continue to add equally top and bottom until sag is right. Then ride the bike to see where you are. If you add more air to top only, you will get a plusher feel. If you add more air to bottom only, you will get a stiffer feel. The tricky part is that you will always measure equal pressures top and bottom because our sliding piston that divides the air chamber in half equalizes the pressure BUT changes the volume of the chambers. The volume of each chamber is hard to determine and we know it will be confusing to consumers, but it works! So, more air in top gives you a larger top volume and plusher ride. More air in bottom enlarges that volume and creates a stiffer ride."

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Russ and I were talking about setup, here is some new tuning info for you-

    "Our suggestion is to start with 30 pounds top and bottom - be sure you start from empty - and set your sag. Continue to add equally top and bottom until sag is right. Then ride the bike to see where you are. If you add more air to top only, you will get a plusher feel. If you add more air to bottom only, you will get a stiffer feel. The tricky part is that you will always measure equal pressures top and bottom because our sliding piston that divides the air chamber in half equalizes the pressure BUT changes the volume of the chambers. The volume of each chamber is hard to determine and we know it will be confusing to consumers, but it works! So, more air in top gives you a larger top volume and plusher ride. More air in bottom enlarges that volume and creates a stiffer ride."
    I've had no success mucking with the lower air, so I set the top at what I need to keep from maxing travel, right now I'm at 75psi, I weigh 195#. CCI runs about 150psi.

  18. #218
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    Second ride on the Wren today. Still loving the performance but it seems to have developed a creaking/groaning noise. Intermittent, but most obvious when climbing. Haven't managed to replicate it without riding a trail. Going to examine my QR and think about where it should be greased or anti seized, but wondered if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise from their Wren? 90% sure it is the fork at this stage, but reserving the right to be wrong.

  19. #219
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    I haven't had that creak. My TA is greased with Park grease.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    Second ride on the Wren today. Still loving the performance but it seems to have developed a creaking/groaning noise. Intermittent, but most obvious when climbing. Haven't managed to replicate it without riding a trail. Going to examine my QR and think about where it should be greased or anti seized, but wondered if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise from their Wren? 90% sure it is the fork at this stage, but reserving the right to be wrong.
    Does it creak when you compress the fork when standing while climbing?

    Check the bar/stem clamp, reset the headset, make sure it's not binding.

    My Mutz does some creaking, it ended up being the seat post, though I could have swore up and down that it was the suspension.

  21. #221
    pit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The Bluto holds the Mutz back> Running a Bluto is not unlike running a 120mm travel Reba on a AM bike; you just can't run a noodley short travel fork on a bike that has big bones, big wheels, and 140mm of swingarm travel.

    For perspective, the trails I rode this past weekend in BC:

    Sumas Mountain (Knob Gobbler, etc) - Sumas Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    Rode everything at Tamihi - Tamihi (Chilliwack River) Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    The Wren hangs with the big boys, everyone else was running a Pike or similar, with a minimum 140mm of travel. I was jumping, running big lines, going fast, and I never felt like I needed more fork.

  22. #222
    pit
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    @ Nurse Ben : it might be fantastic to ride these trails

  23. #223
    vmk
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  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by pit View Post
    @ Nurse Ben : it might be fantastic to ride these trails
    Fraser Valley riding was awesome, but I think it'll pale with where we're heading next week: The Sunshine Coast

    https://freehubmag.com/articles/sunshine-coast-guide

    BC riding is crazy, it's no wonder that someone like Steve Smith could dominate World Cup, the trails are scary steep, continuous, nasty stuff at every turn, truly a "controlled fall".

    I never wear pads, but I got some now...even thinking about a full face!

    So in answer to folks questions about the Wren being "tough enough". I'm no downhiller, but I ride hard, and I'm not light (#200/90kg), and the Wren goes where I point it and it doesn't flex at all when diving into the gnarliest terrain.

    Between the stiff Foes frame, strong wheels, a burly fork, and plus sized tires, I feel like I can pretty much ride anything I have the balls to tackle. It's not a DH bike, but the Mutz at full travel is certainly an Enduro bike, one with heft

  25. #225
    pit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    So in answer to folks questions about the Wren being "tough enough". I'm no downhiller, but I ride hard, and I'm not light (#200/90kg), and the Wren goes where I point it and it doesn't flex at all when diving into the gnarliest terrain.

    Between the stiff Foes frame, strong wheels, a burly fork, and plus sized tires, I feel like I can pretty much ride anything I have the balls to tackle. It's not a DH bike, but the Mutz at full travel is certainly an Enduro bike, one with heft
    Exactly what i wanted to know..

    ...my bluto looses air during 3 or 4 hours riding out on my Mutz ......there's (again, like when i used the bluto for the first time and ask to Rock Shox a warranty service when the product was all new, put out of the box on the front of my bike) a noticable side to side play between stanchions and the "legs"......worst fork i've ever own , and i'm not a downhiller too......

    Thanks Nurse Ben

  26. #226
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    Any of you guys running the 110mm travel option? I'm on the fence for my Wednesday which fork in gonna try out.
    http://buynow.wrensports.com/product...b-110mm-travel


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haste11 View Post
    Any of you guys running the 110mm travel option? I'm on the fence for my Wednesday which fork in gonna try out.
    Wren Suspension Forks | Wren Sports


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I would suggest to buy the 150mm travel Version and then reduce it to 110mm. You will have the option to use the fork for other bikes, that needs longer travel also.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I would suggest to buy the 150mm travel Version and then reduce it to 110mm. You will have the option to use the fork for other bikes, that needs longer travel also.
    I would technically agree, but the description only shows that it can be reduced to 120. On the other hand, the 110 version can be reduced down to 80. Can the 150 version be reduced down to something more than 120?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    I would technically agree, but the description only shows that it can be reduced to 120. On the other hand, the 110 version can be reduced down to 80. Can the 150 version be reduced down to something more than 120?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    It should not be a problem to go 10mm more. Technically you just need one more clip of 10mm. The 80 should also be possible to reduce to 80mm.

  30. #230
    vmk
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    Getting ready for the summer:

  31. #231
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    120mm is the shortest travel possible on the 150mm fork according to the guys at Wren.

  32. #232
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    [QUOTE=vmk;12647176]Getting ready for the summer:
    [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/

    I have to ask about that fender, can you tell me what it is and where you got it?

  33. #233
    vmk
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    It's carbon fiber, got it from my shed after some tinkering. I printed the fixing parts from PLA.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haste11 View Post
    Any of you guys running the 110mm travel option? I'm on the fence for my Wednesday which fork in gonna try out.
    Wren Suspension Forks | Wren Sports
    What are you putting it on? I'm running the 110 (@110) on my Fatboy. There were a few times climbing that I thought it may need to come down 10 but if I run it plush it's phenomenal for roots, rock gardens and descending while enabling me to load it and keep it down when climbing in the saddle.

    Rumble - The longer travel version can't be reduced below 120.


    Hey did you guys know that we also have these in 100 and 110 hub widths? Need a fork for your 29er or plus bike?

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    What are you putting it on? I'm running the 110 (@110) on my Fatboy. There were a few times climbing that I thought it may need to come down 10 but if I run it plush it's phenomenal for roots, rock gardens and descending while enabling me to load it and keep it down when climbing in the saddle.

    Rumble - The longer travel version can't be reduced below 120.


    Hey did you guys know that we also have these in 100 and 110 hub widths? Need a fork for your 29er or plus bike?
    Surly Wednesday

  36. #236
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    I don't think I would want a fork with more than 100mm of travel on that bike. The stock A to C is 468 and at 100mm it would be 510 (minus sag) so unless you are looking to slack out the front end and gain some bb clearance I wouldn't go longer.

  37. #237
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    For Sale: Wren 150mm hub spacing x 110mm Travel.

    Excellent condition, ridden three times, no damage, looks new, travel/A-C reduceable to 100-80mm.

    Great fork for hard tail fat bike or short travel full suspension fat bike (Bucksaw).

    Steerer cut to 8.5", star nut installed, cc race if you want it.

    I bought this fork for my fat tandem, but we decided to sell the tandem, so the fork is for sale.

    $899 retail, I'll let it go for $700 plus shipping.

    Send a PM for details.

  38. #238
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    So a question for you guys. I am thinking about sending Wren an e-mail about moving the disc break mount to the right side of the fork or at least giving two mounting options. It really is silly for housing routing to have the front disk on the left when the lever is on that side also and front hubs and spin either direction, so why not move the mount to the other side to make housing routing better.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    So a question for you guys. I am thinking about sending Wren an e-mail about moving the disc break mount to the right side of the fork or at least giving two mounting options. It really is silly for housing routing to have the front disk on the left when the lever is on that side also and front hubs and spin either direction, so why not move the mount to the other side to make housing routing better.
    Yeah, because they could whip that up, nice, quick and at no extra cost to the customer. You're seriously approaching "Princess" territory with this request. If it bothers you so much, try swapping brake lever positions.

    I mean - seems like everyone else has solved the issue enough to go ride their bikes.
    Howell, Michigan

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    So a question for you guys. I am thinking about sending Wren an e-mail about moving the disc break mount to the right side of the fork or at least giving two mounting options. It really is silly for housing routing to have the front disk on the left when the lever is on that side also and front hubs and spin either direction, so why not move the mount to the other side to make housing routing better.
    Because they would have to design a dropout with a backward brake mount in order to get the caliper to align with the rotor. At which point your cable routing would be all f-ed up at the caliper. Or they would have to run the caliper backward on the front of the fork leg, which I'm guessing would increase the stress on the caliper mounts and dropouts, at least.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Yeah, because they could whip that up, nice, quick and at no extra cost to the customer. You're seriously approaching "Princess" territory with this request. If it bothers you so much, try swapping brake lever positions.

    I mean - seems like everyone else has solved the issue enough to go ride their bikes.
    Why kind of stupid over reaction response is this? Without people suggesting ideas not in the status quo we would not have the types of bikes designs we have today.

    Sean Salach thanks for the rational response as to why it is not a workable idea.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Why kind of stupid over reaction response is this? Without people suggesting ideas not in the status quo we would not have the types of bikes designs we have today.
    It's a reaction to one of the slowest, most timid bike builds I have ever known. Princess.
    Howell, Michigan

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    It's a reaction to one of the slowest, most timid bike builds I have ever known. Princess.
    Look at the internet tough guy, lol!!!

    Just when you don't think the forums could get any worse.

    I assume you are referencing the FS bike this fork is going on, tell you what PayPal me the cash I need to finish the build and it will get done. Otherwise just go away and let the adults talk.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Princess
    Look at the internet tough guy, lol!!!

    Just when you don't think the forums could get any worse.

    I assume you are referencing the FS bike this fork is going on, tell you what PayPal me the cash I need to finish the build and it will get done. Otherwise just go away and let the adults talk.
    Heh. Stop being such a pansy.


    I'm here for the long haul, sweetie, as I'm interested in this fork. You think being critical of your self-centered ignorance is being a tough guy, you need to re-zero and span your attitude.
    Howell, Michigan

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Heh. Stop being such a pansy.


    I'm here for the long haul, sweetie, as I'm interested in this fork. You think being critical of your self-centered ignorance is being a tough guy, you need to re-zero and span your attitude.
    I posted an idea and have been explained (by an adult) why it is not a viable idea.
    But are just acting like a child and distracting the a thread that has valuable information in it.

    So sorry folks for this distraction in the thread.

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    Take it off line, seriously, this is supposed to be a tech thread for a fork.

    So, any takers on my fork?

  47. #247
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    A quick tuning tip for the older 100mm single air model. Sorry if I spoil the 150mm tech talk with some old school stuff.

    1. Add something solid in the air cavity. I used wood, a lot of it after some experimenting. Make sure that the piston doesn't hit waht ever you dump there.

    2. Increase the negative spring tension. I printed a PLA-shim for that (will do that to the air chamber too when I have some time). And again, if you put too much, the travel will decrease and you may damage the fork and die. The max. seems to be around 30mm, I've that much in there. A heavier spring should work too, but I didn't have one in my pile of "this is something that I might use for something someday". I was tempted to dump the whole air spring assembly and put in a Lefty spring to see what happens, but that would most likely ruin the inner surface and the air piston would not work after that...

    This made my single air fork work the way I want it. Super plush suspension, that doesn't bottom out in big hits or steep downhills.

    Try at your own risk...

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    Is this fork still for sale?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jtawausau View Post
    Is this fork still for sale?
    My fork?

    Yes, it's sitting on my work bench dreaming of dirt

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    So some further information on my occasional noise from my Wren fork. Took the air side apart today to have a look and noticed some very light scoring to the stanchion. Couldn't see it on the bike but visible when cleaned and held up to the light. I think this was caused by the seal inside the collar - see picture. You can clearly see some bare metal where the seal has either worn away or just not been present from the start. I'm assuming this is a manufacturing defect as the fork has only seen 15 hours use.
    Will contact the UK distributor on Monday and see what they have to say. Disappointing because I'm loving the way this fork works.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-collar2.jpg  


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