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  1. #301
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    Hey, does this come with any type of cable guides at all? Asking because of all the posts I see about them. I like the idea of the Lefty guides...

    Also, is a star nut included or do I need to pick one up?

    Thanks.

  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Hey, does this come with any type of cable guides at all? Asking because of all the posts I see about them. I like the idea of the Lefty guides...

    Also, is a star nut included or do I need to pick one up?

    Thanks.
    I just used zip ties for mine. No guides are included. It's relevant because if you use nothing, or only one guide, your brake line is likely to get into your spokes when the fork compresses. The lefty guides are a bit cleaner than using zip ties, that's for sure.

    Star nuts are typically included with headsets, not forks. If you don't have one, you will have to obtain one. I had a couple extra sitting around at home, so had no problem with that.

    FWIW, I just installed a 203mm rotor on my Wren and I'm pleased. My brakes feel a bit more balanced than they used to, and I notice less brake pull from it than I did with a 180mm rotor on a Bluto.

  3. #303
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    Hmmm. I got a star nut with my bluto but bought it as a package deal with the bike.

    Being an inverted fork, doesn't the brake line need to be able to slide?

    Thanks for the info!

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Hmmm. I got a star nut with my bluto but bought it as a package deal with the bike.

    Being an inverted fork, doesn't the brake line need to be able to slide?

    Thanks for the info!
    It needs to be able to move without catching on anything. If sliding does the job, then that's fine. The zip ties I use aren't exactly tight. No matter whether the housing slides through the guides or not, it will bow out somewhere when the fork compresses. You just don't want it catching anywhere. In majack's pic, it looks like the housing probably bows out to the left between the two guides. Mine tends to bow below the lower one, but it does slide a little. I'd rather it bow straight backward, but directing it that way isn't very easy. At least it doesn't bow into my spokes (the first time I heard it plink when it did that, I stopped and adjusted until it didn't do that anymore - the last thing I want is to rupture a hydro hose on the trail somewhere chunky that I actually need brakes).

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    Yep. since i got mine right I can't feel most rocks or roots and it make me go probably too fast for my own good.
    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    I weigh 220, but not all pumps deliver the same amount per stroke. Still messing a bit with rebound, right I have it so the fork.does.not.top all the way out when lifting the front, unless you have one, this probably does not make sense, hard to explain, hope it helps.
    Yes, I have a 110mm Wren (running 80 mm travel), and I know exactly what you mean. Obviously, I'm still experimenting with the rebound, too. I'm going to test again during my next ride, but if I recall correctly, I need to turn the rebound knob at least two-thirds of the way toward the closed position to substantially reduce the top-out sound when lifting the front wheel. I'm not sure if topping-out is a "bad thing," but a faster rebound setting seems to allow it to happen.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    It needs to be able to move without catching on anything. If sliding does the job, then that's fine. The zip ties I use aren't exactly tight. No matter whether the housing slides through the guides or not, it will bow out somewhere when the fork compresses. You just don't want it catching anywhere. In majack's pic, it looks like the housing probably bows out to the left between the two guides. Mine tends to bow below the lower one, but it does slide a little. I'd rather it bow straight backward, but directing it that way isn't very easy. At least it doesn't bow into my spokes (the first time I heard it plink when it did that, I stopped and adjusted until it didn't do that anymore - the last thing I want is to rupture a hydro hose on the trail somewhere chunky that I actually need brakes).
    Harold is correct, my hydro hose bows out to the left, (away from the spokes). With my Hope brakes and the way the hydro hose is connected to the caliper, this is the only way I could get the hose to go without going into the spokes. I had the hydro line go into the spokes when I first set it up and I like many others, had to find a different option. So that is how I come up with using the Lefty guides. I to would have liked to have the hydro line move towards the back, but with my brakes that was not an option.
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  7. #307
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    Got it. Thanks guys.

  8. #308
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    My Wren came with a star nut, but not guides. I use two Reverb seatpost hose guides and they work really well. That was a tip from another poster on here. The benefit of the Reverb guides is that they allow the hose to slide, so the hose doesn't bend in or out at wheel height. Instead, the slack is taken up around the bars instead.

  9. #309
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    Are you having a problem with the damper? If so, you may send here to Wren:
    Wren Sports
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    Vallejo, CA 94591
    Typically, our damper does not need servicing. When it eventually wears out, best to replace. Cost is basically the same because of the time to properly service and refill the damper.
    Russ / Wren

  10. #310
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    The Wren fork is ready to go. All of the upgrades to the bushings, QR and damper we requested have been made. These upgrades will also fit older model Wren forks with keyed stanchions. We feel designing a modular fork has made servicing simple. We have videos posted on our Service page at wrensports.com that will walk you through everything you need to know. We don't recommend servicing the damper yourself unless you have a lot of experience bleeding such systems. Our travel and AC can be adjusted using the clips we provide with every fork. Simply snap it on or off. No major disassembly and no parts to buy.
    Russ/Wren

  11. #311
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    Here's my guide for the brake cable. Printed out of PETG. It allows the hose to move freely, the hose doesn't bend during the suspension travel. Works at least with a 90mm of travel in use.
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-1-dsc_0059.jpg

  12. #312
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    Hi All!
    Thought I would use Harold's post to let you know we have listened to all the requests for cable guides and have designed one for the Wren fork. In production now and should be here shortly. We will include 2 guides with every fork once they arrive. The main guide is attached using zip ties. The smaller piece can be inserted to reduce the size of the hole for smaller hoses/cables. Should make for a clean install with any braking system. Hope i figured out how to post the pic correctly!
    Russ/Wren

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    The Wren fork is ready to go. All of the upgrades to the bushings, QR and damper we requested have been made. These upgrades will also fit older model Wren forks with keyed stanchions. We feel designing a modular fork has made servicing simple. We have videos posted on our Service page at wrensports.com that will walk you through everything you need to know. We don't recommend servicing the damper yourself unless you have a lot of experience bleeding such systems. Our travel and AC can be adjusted using the clips we provide with every fork. Simply snap it on or off. No major disassembly and no parts to buy.
    Russ/Wren
    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    Hi All!
    Thought I would use Harold's post to let you know we have listened to all the requests for cable guides and have designed one for the Wren fork. In production now and should be here shortly. We will include 2 guides with every fork once they arrive. The main guide is attached using zip ties. The smaller piece can be inserted to reduce the size of the hole for smaller hoses/cables. Should make for a clean install with any braking system. Hope i figured out how to post the pic correctly!
    Russ/Wren
    Nice to see those cable guides. Will we be able to buy them separately for our existing forks? I'm also curious about the new QR/thru axle. I've heard about it a couple of times. What changes were made to it (please tell me I will be able to put the lever on the side opposite the brake caliper)?

  14. #314
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    Hi Harold!
    Yes, the guides will be available aftermarket. I am negotiating with the factory now to get a few sets no charge so we can add to that and supply existing fork owners a set for postage only. The new QR is also in production. On new production forks now and available soon as an aftermarket upgrade to existing forks. The Wren QR must ALWAYS be inserted from the brake side, lever on brake side. We redesigned the lever/cam area to be more durable and generate more clamping force.
    Russ / Wren

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    Hi Harold!
    Yes, the guides will be available aftermarket. I am negotiating with the factory now to get a few sets no charge so we can add to that and supply existing fork owners a set for postage only. The new QR is also in production. On new production forks now and available soon as an aftermarket upgrade to existing forks. The Wren QR must ALWAYS be inserted from the brake side, lever on brake side. We redesigned the lever/cam area to be more durable and generate more clamping force.
    Russ / Wren
    It would be better if the lever could be on the other side. That way my fingers are nowhere near my rotor when trying to remove my tire (say, repairing a flat after a long downhill where the brakes got hot, or loading my bike onto a fork mounted rack after the brake got hot, or simply to keep my fingers away from the rotor to minimize contamination risk, etc). I ran regular QR levers this way for years, and Rockshox sets up their thru axles this way. I don't see any real functional reason why the lever SHOULD be so close to the brake rotor.

  16. #316
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    On the QR lever side topic: I recently had a rear hub failure which caused the bearings to bind on the axle, which (somehow?) then unwound the 12mm bolt through from the frame. It happened quite quickly on a downhill section and although the wheel stayed within the confines of the frame it came out of the dropouts and locked up causing an alarming loss of control. I thought at the time that it would be safer if it had a left hand thread to prevent this happening and wondered why that wasn't standard practice. I have never experienced a front hub failure and don't want to, but if I did, I'd prefer my QR to insert from the drive side or have a left had thread if it has to insert from the non-drive side. I guess a QR is possibly less likely to unwind in these circumstances than a bolt through. I am a bit of a worrier.

  17. #317
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    I have had front QR's unwind on me, which is why I started flipping my levers. Then it occurred to me that it was just better that way.

  18. #318
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    Just make a bolt on thru axle version to fit the fork. Simple.

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    Hi Harold!
    Yes, the guides will be available aftermarket. I am negotiating with the factory now to get a few sets no charge so we can add to that and supply existing fork owners a set for postage only. The new QR is also in production. On new production forks now and available soon as an aftermarket upgrade to existing forks. The Wren QR must ALWAYS be inserted from the brake side, lever on brake side. We redesigned the lever/cam area to be more durable and generate more clamping force.
    Russ / Wren
    Can you sell those guides and other parts by mail? I live in Sweden, bought my fork from the UK. Thanks!
    Yamaguchi Cross • YT Jeffsy • Salsa Mukluk & Vaya • Canyon Commuter

  20. #320
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    Hi Schnee!
    I'm guessing you bought the fork through Overspoke Home. They are our UK distributor. You may check with them regarding the new QR axle. They have a complete stock of our service and repair parts. Just not sure what might be left in inventory. The hose/cable guides are in production and we are waiting for the first shipment to arrive, so no one has those yet. If Overspoke is out, we can ship from here, but that might be more expensive than sourcing through Overspoke. We are here to help whichever way you decide to go. Thank you for riding Wren!
    Russ / Wren

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    It needs to be able to move without catching on anything. If sliding does the job, then that's fine. The zip ties I use aren't exactly tight. No matter whether the housing slides through the guides or not, it will bow out somewhere when the fork compresses. You just don't want it catching anywhere. In majack's pic, it looks like the housing probably bows out to the left between the two guides. Mine tends to bow below the lower one, but it does slide a little. I'd rather it bow straight backward, but directing it that way isn't very easy. At least it doesn't bow into my spokes (the first time I heard it plink when it did that, I stopped and adjusted until it didn't do that anymore - the last thing I want is to rupture a hydro hose on the trail somewhere chunky that I actually need brakes).
    There need to something that keeps the hose away from the stanchion. And it need to be able to move, otherwise it will take off the paint. If you keep the hose in the rear of the stanchion (6 o'clock) you will keep it safe from getting hit by stones and safe in crashes. If you take the hose under the crown you need to keep it away from the surface, or it will rub. Inside of the fork is not good if you use big tires (~5").

  22. #322
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    This seems to work, no rubbing, the brake hose has a free movement and doesn't bend at the lower part of it. Have to print something to replace the zip tie on the handle bar, maybe something that allows movement there as well.
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-1-dsc_0160-001.jpg

  23. #323
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    Spent some time yesterday during my ride doing some suspension tuning. Getting the Wren to behave a little bit better in the chattery stuff. I've got it closer to how I like it. I can probably still make it better, though.

    Ooo, cable rub will result in my death while I use plain zip ties to secure my brake line for a short time until I get some better cable guides.

  24. #324
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    Anyone run their fork without the stanchion guards?

    Found a pic where someone had the clamp bolt on the guard side and set mine up similarly but still not crazy about how they fit around the stanchion and guard...

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    Hey all. Sorry I've been a bit of a stranger in the thread but Russ seems to have been covering things pretty well

    shinkers - I wouldn't run without the guards. They really do protect the stanchions, I've had cause to appreciate them SO many times.

    The new QR is great, solved a couple of issues I had and just plain feels better when you're closing it. A little bit of grease on the contact points is a good thing... I too am anxiously awaiting a set of the cable guides but have had good luck with loose(ish) zip ties so the hose can slide. I tend to run the rebound damping a few clicks off closed, it really helps to counteract the basketball effect and allows me to plow through rough stuff at moderate to high speeds without packing up. If I'm riding techy, sort of flat terrain I'll open it up a click to help get the front end up a little bit more quickly.

    If you ride where it's dry and dusty or have had to clean your fork this stuff has been good for me https://miles-wide.com/product/wet-seal/ My bike tends to spend a lot of time on the back of my car so I have to clean the stanchions pretty often. A few drops and then cycle the fork a few times and it feels great again.

  26. #326
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    Mmmm, indeed. Took it out for the first time and will definitely need to keep the guards on.

    The fork felt kind of indifferent until I got the rebound dialed. After that, holy moly this thing is dangerous.

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    ...I tend to run the rebound damping a few clicks off closed, it really helps to counteract the basketball effect and allows me to plow through rough stuff at moderate to high speeds without packing up. If I'm riding techy, sort of flat terrain I'll open it up a click to help get the front end up a little bit more quickly.
    When you refer to rebound setting "clicks," do you mean figuratively, or does your rebound knob actually have clicks that you can count?

  28. #328
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    Real quick too, is it normal to hear the fork kind of "thunk" when the legs fully extend after bring compressed? Like when you hit a drop or jump and the wheel springs out when unweighted? I have 70 strokes in both chambers at about 75 psi. Using all my travel. I weigh 200 or so.

    Can't remember if I noticed it with my lefty and the fork worked great anyhow.

    Funny, I have my rebound set 8 'clicks' in from the fastest setting. I count a click as a small 1/8 turn or so with my fingers and I get 22 total.

  29. #329
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide

    Shinkers - I find that mine fork (120mm) works better with a volume difference between the upper & lower air chambers. My upper chamber has more volume than the lower chamber. I do not have any 'thunk' like you are describing
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  30. #330
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    Ideally the brake line would run through a guide mounted to the stanchion protrector, ala Cannondale Lefty.

    A guide mounted on the upper leg either leads to stanchion rub if it gets inder the protector, or it gets in the wheel, so it's challeneging to find a balance.

    To start run the shortest brake line possible...

    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Spent some time yesterday during my ride doing some suspension tuning. Getting the Wren to behave a little bit better in the chattery stuff. I've got it closer to how I like it. I can probably still make it better, though.

    Ooo, cable rub will result in my death while I use plain zip ties to secure my brake line for a short time until I get some better cable guides.

  31. #331
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    I considered trying that after reading that's how many others run theirs.

    The thunk isn't loud, just sounds like the fork topping out. Hopefully I didn't screw it up running it the way I did.

    Edit: talked to Russ and he said my rebound damping is probably too fast. Slowed it down and it definitely helped.
    Last edited by Shinkers; 10-10-2016 at 05:26 PM.

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    When you refer to rebound setting "clicks," do you mean figuratively, or does your rebound knob actually have clicks that you can count?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Real quick too, is it normal to hear the fork kind of "thunk" when the legs fully extend after bring compressed? Like when you hit a drop or jump and the wheel springs out when unweighted? I have 70 strokes in both chambers at about 75 psi. Using all my travel. I weigh 200 or so.

    Can't remember if I noticed it with my lefty and the fork worked great anyhow.

    Funny, I have my rebound set 8 'clicks' in from the fastest setting. I count a click as a small 1/8 turn or so with my fingers and I get 22 total.
    No it doesn't actually click, that was more figurative.

    Slow the rebound down a bit more, that should take care of the top out klunk.

  33. #333
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    Currently building up a carbon BS. After coming across this thread, very tempted to take the weight penalty and go with the Wren over the Bluto. Can any BS owners comment on Wren performance on a BS? (Salsa is very specific on what fork specs will work with the BS)

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocks_4_brains View Post
    Currently building up a carbon BS. After coming across this thread, very tempted to take the weight penalty and go with the Wren over the Bluto. Can any BS owners comment on Wren performance on a BS? (Salsa is very specific on what fork specs will work with the BS)
    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    I am using the 110mm WREN on my Carbon BS, tried to weight weenie the bike out but no matter how much I spend this bike will not be light ever. Now I have swapped out the carbon hoops and added the WREN, best thing I did, now I can ride it like I want with control and speed. There is no way to go back to the Bluto after using it, the Bluto is over matched to the rest of the bike and really holds it back.
    I have an Alu Bucksaw, and agree that the Bluto fork holds the bike back. I am still tweaking the setup of my Wren, but it's already better than the Bluto in at least one critical area. Stiffness. When I rode the Bluto, I "felt" that the fork's biggest weakness was flex in straight-on hits and drops. I did burp some air out of the fork on a particularly long and rowdy downhill last year. But now that I've ridden the Wren for awhile, I can say that the biggest impact of the noodliness of the Bluto is wheel deflection from smaller stuff that you glance off of, or that you hit at an angle. So the roots and smaller rocks that I see on every single ride. My first ride with the Wren after installing it, I noticed that I was still compensating for wheel deflection that wasn't there. I kept waggling my bars from side-to-side when I didn't need to.

    I had to do a bit of a mental reset, but once I calmed down my steering, I notice how much more "true" the bike tracks with the Wren. Consequently, I am faster, particularly on the downhills. Also worth noting: with the Bluto, I was using a 180mm rotor, and I would feel the bike "pull" when I applied the brake, especially if my thru axle wasn't tight enough. This sensation was dramatically reduced when I installed a DT RWS thru axle on the Bluto, but it was still there. After installing the Wren, I got a 203mm front rotor because I wanted a little more safety margin for braking. The Wren STILL does not "pull" under even the hardest braking efforts.

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    I have an Alu Bucksaw, and agree that the Bluto fork holds the bike back. I am still tweaking the setup of my Wren, but it's already better than the Bluto in at least one critical area. Stiffness. When I rode the Bluto, I "felt" that the fork's biggest weakness was flex in straight-on hits and drops. I did burp some air out of the fork on a particularly long and rowdy downhill last year. But now that I've ridden the Wren for awhile, I can say that the biggest impact of the noodliness of the Bluto is wheel deflection from smaller stuff that you glance off of, or that you hit at an angle. So the roots and smaller rocks that I see on every single ride. My first ride with the Wren after installing it, I noticed that I was still compensating for wheel deflection that wasn't there. I kept waggling my bars from side-to-side when I didn't need to.

    I had to do a bit of a mental reset, but once I calmed down my steering, I notice how much more "true" the bike tracks with the Wren. Consequently, I am faster, particularly on the downhills. Also worth noting: with the Bluto, I was using a 180mm rotor, and I would feel the bike "pull" when I applied the brake, especially if my thru axle wasn't tight enough. This sensation was dramatically reduced when I installed a DT RWS thru axle on the Bluto, but it was still there. After installing the Wren, I got a 203mm front rotor because I wanted a little more safety margin for braking. The Wren STILL does not "pull" under even the hardest braking efforts.
    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    I am using the 110mm WREN on my Carbon BS, tried to weight weenie the bike out but no matter how much I spend this bike will not be light ever. Now I have swapped out the carbon hoops and added the WREN, best thing I did, now I can ride it like I want with control and speed. There is no way to go back to the Bluto after using it, the Bluto is over matched to the rest of the bike and really holds it back.
    Thank you Gentlemen! Decision made - going with the Wren. Now to get it ordered and setup!
    A bit off topic, but GT, why did you swap out the carbon hoops?

  36. #336
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    Fwiw, i talked to the salsa folks this weekend and the rep was confident that the 110mm wren is not excessively long in the a/c department to void the warranty.

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    Awesome! Sounds like no need to try and shorten the Wren to 100mm then. Thanks again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Fwiw, i talked to the salsa folks this weekend and the rep was confident that the 110mm wren is not excessively long in the a/c department to void the warranty.
    And you may need the warranty. RIPieces BS
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160604_134227.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160604_134203.jpg  


  39. #339
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    Oops.

    Is that an aluminum rear triangle?

    Quote Originally Posted by exp18 View Post
    And you may need the warranty. RIPieces BS

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Oops.

    Is that an aluminum rear triangle?
    It's like all of them aluminum chain stays and carbon seat stays. The aluminum chain stay broke right behind the swing fitting on the chainring that started it then everything else broke.

  41. #341
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    I just got the new QR and wow what a difference from the original one that came with my fork! Tell you what I am loving the customer service and quick response of Wren when I have reported issues this is how a bike parts company should be.

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    No bueno!
    Did you get any sort of warning (crack) or did it just snap? On an impact or JRA?
    Hopefully it didn't snap 10mi out.

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by exp18 View Post
    It's like all of them aluminum chain stays and carbon seat stays. The aluminum chain stay broke right behind the swing fitting on the chainring that started it then everything else broke.
    ...and if the length of the fork were at fault, the break would have happened right behind the head tube on the down or top tube.

    You just posted to vent about your Salsa, right?
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  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    ...and if the length of the fork were at fault, the break would have happened right behind the head tube on the down or top tube.


    You just posted to vent about your Salsa, right?
    A little bit, but in the end they warranted it. This was the second set of chain stays for me the first one cracked that i found. This was the second set and obviously I didn't find this one soon enough. It took a little while to get them to warranty it. My LBS when to bat for me so I give them a lot of credit for making it happen.
    But the reason I really posted it was to remind folks that the warranty is important and if this happens they ask all the questions like fork length.

  45. #345
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    Just to comment on the issue with brake house. It needs to be attached by minimum 2 attahcments, and there need to be able to get the hose to glide through. The best way to run the hose is behind the fork leg and behind the crown. Make sure the hose is not touching anywhere, otherwise you will hurt the paint.

    The issue with the fork hitting the bump stop on top of stroke is possible to cure with 50/50 air volume counted with strokes. But if you want a bottom out resistance you will need to ad more air in bottom chamber. Then you will end up with still hitting the top. You can balance it further with adding air in top chamber giving you a bit less sag. To avvoid the fork hitting the bump stop just by adding rebound is a bad compromise. You will for sure not need so much rebound when riding. Actually the best is to have as little rebound as possible on the fork.

  46. #346
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    Or you can reduce the air volume on the positive air chamber like I did. I'm on an older single air model, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on new models too?

    For my use, the original air volume on the single air was too big, way too linear suspension. I either got harsh ride with a high pressure or a fork that bottomed out too easy, if the sag was right. I did tamper with the negative coil spring too, added some spacers to get more preload on it.

    The air volume in Bluto is way smaller compared to Wren.

  47. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmk View Post
    Or you can reduce the air volume on the positive air chamber like I did. I'm on an older single air model, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on new models too?

    For my use, the original air volume on the single air was too big, way too linear suspension. I either got harsh ride with a high pressure or a fork that bottomed out too easy, if the sag was right. I did tamper with the negative coil spring too, added some spacers to get more preload on it.

    The air volume in Bluto is way smaller compared to Wren.
    If you mean the positive Chamber as the bottom Chamber? Yes but will not have any bottom out capability then.

  48. #348
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    On the newer dual air Wren, adding air to the negative chamber at the bottom of the fork leg reduces volume in the positive air chamber, making the travel more progressive and increasing resistance to bottoming out. I recently had to add a few pumps to my negative air chamber because I had a hard bottom out in a kinda unique spot on the trail.

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    On the newer dual air Wren, adding air to the negative chamber at the bottom of the fork leg reduces volume in the positive air chamber, making the travel more progressive and increasing resistance to bottoming out. I recently had to add a few pumps to my negative air chamber because I had a hard bottom out in a kinda unique spot on the trail.
    You could add a few pumps at the top chamber also, so it will not top out so much....

    A few tip when doing a service on the fork. Use Slick Honey on spring and moving parts, and Molykote 55 on the pistons. But on the keys there is a clue to use something sticky grease. I have used a grease from Omega, and I have been putting on grease 2-3 rounds on the keys and sliding it in the keyways. These will reduce the wearing and if possible the fork will feel even more plush...

  50. #350
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    My 150mm Wren has developed some free travel at the top of the stroke. Just a few mm but noticeable when climbing and the weight comes off the front. Anyone else experienced this or any idea what is going on?

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    My 150mm Wren has developed some free travel at the top of the stroke. Just a few mm but noticeable when climbing and the weight comes off the front. Anyone else experienced this or any idea what is going on?
    I had the same issue. Try to service the air side. It might develop some strange movement inside the air chamber caused by the huge amount of grease that after a while is ending up above the piston. I opened mine and found a peace of grease as big as the piston. Cleaned everything and applied new slick honey grease and molykote grease on the piston. The play disappeared.

  52. #352
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    OK, I'll open it up and clean/check the air side. Not many miles on it since last serviced though. I should have said rebound doesn't affect the free travel (unless I fully close the damper).

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    OK, I'll open it up and clean/check the air side. Not many miles on it since last serviced though. I should have said rebound doesn't affect the free travel (unless I fully close the damper).
    If it is not the air side grease issue, it can be the compression unit that is broken. I have had one frien that had oil leak on his. Take out compression knob and shaft Assembly, to check if it is oil coming through.

  54. #354
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    So I have a new problem now.

    I've noticed when I compress the fork, the tire moves about 1/8 of an inch to the non-drive side. My spike tension is fine and the wheel is true and perfectly centered when not compressed.

    It is almost as if the air side is compressing before the oil side and therefore cocking my wheel over.

    I tightened my qr a bit more and that helped, but the issue is still there. It's as tight as I dare go.

    Normal? Or thoughts as to what could be the problem?

    The fork still rides the same as it ever did but this is concerning.

    Thanks.

  55. #355
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    Here are some pics.

    I tried letting all the air out of the fork and it compresses straight all the way down.

    The oil side has no resistance compared to the air side. I'm thinking that has to have something to do with it.

    It looks to me like there may be rub marks from the tire on the non-drive stanchion as well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164122.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164135.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164143.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164300.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164311.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164317.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164432.jpg  


  56. #356
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    Doesn't show up well in the pics dammit.

  57. #357
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    Please, can you see full picture on your WOZO with this fork ?

  58. #358
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    Sure.

    FWIW I was informed that my fork is normal by Russ so false alarm on my part.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161016_114004.jpg  


  59. #359
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    Thanks

  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Large Foes Mutz, 26 x 4" On One Floaters
    CC Inline 5.5", 130-140psi, near factory setting, a little more active LSR
    Wren 150mm, 60 psi/60psi, full open dampener control.
    Me: 195# nakid.

    First ride, ten miles on dirt single track, some out of the seat climbing, some low angle jumps, nothing significant.

    Out of the box I noticed stanchion stikiness not unlike the Bluto. The stikiness improved somewhat with riding, but could probably benefit from some more to break in. I wonder whether this stikiness could be due to having an overly slack HTA (65deg) or there's some flex related "binding" at the seals.

    The initial dampening was excessive, so much so that it noticeably slowed the leg return.

    Anyone brave enough to try and change oil in the dampener unit? Would this void the warranty?
    I'm late to this thread, but have found using Maxima SC1 on stanchions relieves alot of stiction on new forks.

  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by amercycprod View Post
    I'm late to this thread, but have found using Maxima SC1 on stanchions relieves alot of stiction on new forks.
    Just a little late, like a year! I sold this fork months ago!

    Anywsys, putting oil on the stanchions is not going to relieve stiction. Stiction is not caused by stanchion friction with the seals.

    It's generally flex, damping, and excess grease internally that makes a fork sticky

  62. #362
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    maybe someone can help me here. i bought a used wren fork . solo air 110mm travel.
    the leg with lockout and compression adj is leaking on top and there is a 1/4 up and down free play in that leg when i grab the stanchion just sliding it. the leg seal is seeping slightly as well. i took it for a ride around block. there is a heavy knocking noise at the end of rebound. the rebound speed and compression adj does not function at all. it seems to hold air good. there is definitely something wrong with the compression leg, the oil inside makes a buzzing noise as well.

    is it nomal for wren forks to have the knocking noise at the end of rebounding?
    what about the free play in the leg?

    can i go from 110mm travel to 150mm? or there is a way to extend the AC length?

    thanks
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  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    maybe someone can help me here. i bought a used wren fork . solo air 110mm travel.
    the leg with lockout and compression adj is leaking on top and there is a 1/4 up and down free play in that leg when i grab the stanchion just sliding it. the leg seal is seeping slightly as well. i took it for a ride around block. there is a heavy knocking noise at the end of rebound. the rebound speed and compression adj does not function at all. it seems to hold air good. there is definitely something wrong with the compression leg, the oil inside makes a buzzing noise as well.

    is it nomal for wren forks to have the knocking noise at the end of rebounding?
    what about the free play in the leg?

    can i go from 110mm travel to 150mm? or there is a way to extend the AC length?

    thanks
    What that is the rod as come apart from the piston. They just screw together but it a little tricky getting into the damping system. If you are not pretty familiar with the internal workings of a shock I would suggest calling wren.
    I had this happen to my wren.

  64. #364
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    A 110mm travel wren is at max travel. You can only shorten it. The 150mm fork is a different one.

    The only way to be sure what is wrong with your fork is to tear it down to look at the damper side. It will probably need new parts of some sort, as the damper is supposed to be a sealed unit.

  65. #365
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    i watched this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dC8CVKaUe0

    there is no oil in this fork?
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  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i watched this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dC8CVKaUe0

    there is oil in the fork?
    If you don't already know this answer, you are the kind of person that service centers exist for. Pay someone else to fix your fork so you don't make it worse.

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    If you don't already know this answer, you are the kind of person that service centers exist for. Pay someone else to fix your fork so you don't make it worse.
    sorry i meant to type, there is no oil in this fork. cuz i did not see him put oil in
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  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    sorry i meant to type, there is no oil in this fork. cuz i did not see him put oil in
    There is oil. The damper is just self-contained. I stand by my earlier comment.

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    There is oil. The damper is just self-contained. I stand by my earlier comment.
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
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  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
    Of course they aren't familiar with it. It is not a common fork. Few shops do much suspension work at all. Most ship it out anymore.

    There are posts where Wren owners discuss replacing bad dampers. There are pics. And descriptions.

  71. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
    Call Russ at Wren next week. He will go thru it with you.
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  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
    The Wren damper is a closed system, if you have oil in the fork leg, then the damper rod has come undone from the plunger, it's not field serviceable, the damper needs to be replaced. Call Wren.

  73. #373
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    Thanks for all your help. The seller said its still nder warranty. HE sent them an email already .

    I bought this fork to run 2xL tire. To change travel and AC length . Can I change the air spring and achieve that. Or the stanchions are different between 110mm and 150mm
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  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    Thanks for all your help. The seller said its still nder warranty. HE sent them an email already .

    I bought this fork to run 2xL tire. To change travel and AC length . Can I change the air spring and achieve that. Or the stanchions are different between 110mm and 150mm
    If there is oil inside compression side it is leaking from the damper unit. It should be replaced.

    Travel and AC can be done in two ways. Travel reduction is made by putting clips (10mm steps) on top of the air spring. It just makes the travel shorter. The AC (axle to crown) length is the same. To shorten both the travel and AC (10mm steps) you put clips inside the air spring (see user manual). 150mm travel can be reduced to 120mm.

  75. #375
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    @akacoke - Where are you located? Wren has several service centers around the country that will be familiar with servicing the fork for you. Russ is out of the office this week so lets see what I can do to help.

    Can you measure the AC (axle to crown length) for me? I will check the chart and let you know if you can safely run the 2XL tire in that fork. I think that because it is a single air fork it is one of the earlier models and you may need to knock it back to 80mm of travel to be able to run that large a tire.

  76. #376
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    thanks for all your help.

    im in nor cal , bayarea. i just took the fork apart both sides greased everything. very simple design and robust design actually, found its missing a set screw to hold the lock out knob. there are 2 holding it. are the same size? what size are they?

    ac length is 480mm at current 110mm travel. my xxl tire is 31.25" tall so from axle to top of tire is 397mm. at 80mm travel if i bottom out ill have 3mm clearance. even that it wouldnt work in case if the tire grow a lil bit. if i can convert to 150mm reduce the travel by 40mm , itd definitely work. ill have a very slack HA which i like

    to extend the ac or travel is it just simple replacing the air spring assemb?

    i took it for another ride around the block, this knocking noise after rebound kinda concerns me, seller said it made that noise since new
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  77. #377
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    You cannot extend travel or a/c on the 110. If you wanted the 150, you should have bought the 150. Two different forks.

  78. #378
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    Yeah you can not go longer with the fork you have. /End story/ The knocking may or may not be able to be solved. That's a problem that has pretty much been solved now in the new forks. You have a very early fork, the next was 505 and with that you would need to run it at 80mm to safely avoid tire to crown contact, and really shouldn't use it with a tire over 4".

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Yeah you can not go longer with the fork you have. /End story/ The knocking may or may not be able to be solved. That's a problem that has pretty much been solved now in the new forks. You have a very early fork, the next was 505 and with that you would need to run it at 80mm to safely avoid tire to crown contact, and really shouldn't use it with a tire over 4".
    their website says it run up to 5" tire. i mounted the XXL on a 80mm rolling surly rolling darryl found there is a offset in to the left(disc side) than under compression the tire leans to the same side cause it to rub. then i dismounted the tire put the wheel back on it there is an offset stil. i mounted the same wheel on my bluto measured no offset. i swapped my specialized stout 90mm wheel with chaoyang 4.9 on this fork same offset also rubs on compression. so it does not even clear 4.9" chaoyang tire
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  80. #380
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20170103_213310.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20170103_213301.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20170103_213336.jpg

    here are some pictures
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  81. #381
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    Is anyone else having problems with the quick release working loose after a hard off camber impact? Whenever I have a hit to the fork other than directly on I start getting a clunking sound which tells me the quick release loosened up again. Stop re-tighten and all good again. I am going to try some purple loctite to see if that can solve the problem since I think blue might be a bit too much if I do need to remove the wheel on the trail.

    What I would really like (sent a e-mail to Wren on this) is just a through bolt that uses an allen wrench to tighten and I would just carry that.

  82. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    here are some pictures
    It seems to me that you have a 135mm hub spacing? There might be that it is only the 150mm hub spacing that can take the 5" tire?
    I see you have a different compression adjusting knob than the 150mm.

    If the wheel came from a surly/salsa bike it can also be dished towards the brake side? You need to check the dishing to?

  83. #383
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    The axle, if it is not broken, and sufficient tightened it will not get loose. There can be a broken locking mechanism where the bolt holding the lever is broken?

    If the axle is working, you will be 100% sure that you have tightened enough, if you take a tool and tight the nut a bit more after it is locked on the other side.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    The axle, if it is not broken, and sufficient tightened it will not get loose. There can be a broken locking mechanism where the bolt holding the lever is broken?

    If the axle is working, you will be 100% sure that you have tightened enough, if you take a tool and tight the nut a bit more after it is locked on the other side.

    I have not tried to use a pair of pliers on the nut side yet, but plenty tight. Enough so that it to get the lever down is a bit of work. Once I put on the purple loctite I will cinch it down that bit extra from the nut side.

    I'm not the lightest of riders at 225lb and I do like to run over stuff so I know that is playing into this. On my old 29er I had this same problem and changed out the through bolt QR for just a through bolt and never had the issues again which is why I would like the same type of option for this fork.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    It seems to me that you have a 135mm hub spacing? There might be that it is only the 150mm hub spacing that can take the 5" tire?
    I see you have a different compression adjusting knob than the 150mm.

    If the wheel came from a surly/salsa bike it can also be dished towards the brake side? You need to check the dishing to?
    i have the 150mm one, the wheels are not dished. at first that was what i thought too. i confirmed on 2 of my blutos. i talked to another used on PB or facebook, he was selling a mutz with newest 150mm wren running 4.8 JJ, he said his tire made contact with left leg several times while riding.

    they will clear 2xl but will rub under load to the left leg. so they wont work. i got rid of this fork already, and bought a lefty to run 2xl
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  86. #386
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    There is a new 150 thru axle QR that resolves this problem. Instead of just an alloy half moon on the qr side it has a brass insert and the end cap has a 5mm hex hole.

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    There is a new 150 thru axle QR that resolves this problem. Instead of just an alloy half moon on the qr side it has a brass insert and the end cap has a 5mm hex hole.
    Thank you so much for this response. I have that QR (after my original blew up after trying to get it tight) but I never noticed the 5mm hex head on the end cap side. So now the QR is locked down and end cap is snugged down tight with the hex.

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Thank you so much for this response. I have that QR (after my original blew up after trying to get it tight) but I never noticed the 5mm hex head on the end cap side. So now the QR is locked down and end cap is snugged down tight with the hex.
    You're welcome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Thank you so much for this response. I have that QR (after my original blew up after trying to get it tight) but I never noticed the 5mm hex head on the end cap side. So now the QR is locked down and end cap is snugged down tight with the hex.
    You will not be having tire rubbing it you tighten the axle with the 5mm hex tool on the nut. I am weighing 260lbs and have been using JJ 4.8 on 90mm rims, without any issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    You will not be having tire rubbing it you tighten the axle with the 5mm hex tool on the nut. I am weighing 260lbs and have been using JJ 4.8 on 90mm rims, without any issue.
    I don't get tire rubbing now I get loose front tire after a off camber hit on the fork. But now that I know that Hex is there it is all tight.

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    You will not be having tire rubbing it you tighten the axle with the 5mm hex tool on the nut. I am weighing 260lbs and have been using JJ 4.8 on 90mm rims, without any issue.
    I dont know what to say to this. my axle was perfectly tight. if you scroll up this page post 322 363, another user is having same problem. maybe some forks does this , some forks dont. people tend to believe whatever they wanna beleive.

    my fork was sent back to Wren and gone thru a complete rebuild/damper change. came back still the same. Wren's official reponse on facebook is they cant confirm my concerns. they are not aware of their forks lean to the left
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I dont know what to say to this. my axle was perfectly tight. if you scroll up this page post 322 363, another user is having same problem. maybe some forks does this , some forks dont. people tend to believe whatever they wanna beleive.

    my fork was sent back to Wren and gone thru a complete rebuild/damper change. came back still the same. Wren's official reponse on facebook is they cant confirm my concerns. they are not aware of their forks lean to the left
    I wonder if it could be something up with your hub that is allowing the through bolt to go through but the hub itself is not right.

    Or another idea when I first build a wheel years ago I made it dead straight but I had built is leaning and did not notice it until I took the wheel off the truing stand.

    Can you post a picture of the fork with the wheel on it straight on?

  93. #393
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    I dont know why its so hard to believe there is a problem with these forks. ive had 2 different wheels thats been on 3 blutos, and 1 renagade. no issues what so ever. only on this wren fork. at the time when i had the wren fork, i had 2 blutos. and 1 ridge fork. 2 wheels/hubs are perfectly centered on these other forks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I dont know why its so hard to believe there is a problem with these forks. ive had 2 different wheels thats been on 3 blutos, and 1 renagade. no issues what so ever. only on this wren fork. at the time when i had the wren fork, i had 2 blutos. and 1 ridge fork. 2 wheels/hubs are perfectly centered on these other forks.
    Why because there are plenty of us that are not having this issue. So to say your issue is a indicator of a problem when you are the only one pretty much voicing this issue is a bit of a stretch.

    I too have had two wheels sets on my Wren with zero issue that you have voiced.

  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Why because there are plenty of us that are not having this issue. So to say your issue is a indicator of a problem when you are the only one pretty much voicing this issue is a bit of a stretch.

    I too have had two wheels sets on my Wren with zero issue that you have voiced.
    wow, Im the only one? can you just look at post 363 362 of this thread?
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    wow, Im the only one? can you just look at post 363 362 of this thread?
    Ooops my bad 2 of you our of how many others that have this fork?

    Look I'm not looking to fight with you about this fork. I like mine and Wren has been nothing but awesome in the customer service department for me. You seem to be having bad luck don't know what to say.

    But instead of attitude looking for a fight why not look for a solution? A front on pic of the wheel on the fork goes a long way instead of saying these forks suck when others of us are having success.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    So I have a new problem now.

    I've noticed when I compress the fork, the tire moves about 1/8 of an inch to the non-drive side. My spike tension is fine and the wheel is true and perfectly centered when not compressed.

    It is almost as if the air side is compressing before the oil side and therefore cocking my wheel over.

    I tightened my qr a bit more and that helped, but the issue is still there. It's as tight as I dare go.

    Normal? Or thoughts as to what could be the problem?

    The fork still rides the same as it ever did but this is concerning.

    Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Here are some pics.

    I tried letting all the air out of the fork and it compresses straight all the way down.

    The oil side has no resistance compared to the air side. I'm thinking that has to have something to do with it.

    It looks to me like there may be rub marks from the tire on the non-drive stanchion as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Sure.

    FWIW I was informed that my fork is normal by Russ so false alarm on my part.
    i stated this couple of post up, i saw a guy selling a mutz with new keyed stanchion wren on also a 150mm i cant remember if it was facebook or PB, he also confirmed there is a rub on his fork to left leg. happened 3-4 times while riding
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i stated this couple of post up, i saw a guy selling a mutz with new keyed stanchion wren on also a 150mm i cant remember if it was facebook or PB, he also confirmed there is a rub on his fork to left leg. happened 3-4 times while riding
    Mine moves when the QR got loose but I always stopped and tightened it. But if you continued to ride long enough the hole could become oblonged then would rub all the time. Like how a loose headset can ruin an aluminum frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Ooops my bad 2 of you our of how many others that have this fork?

    Look I'm not looking to fight with you about this fork. I like mine and Wren has been nothing but awesome in the customer service department for me. You seem to be having bad luck don't know what to say.

    But instead of attitude looking for a fight why not look for a solution? A front on pic of the wheel on the fork goes a long way instead of saying these forks suck when others of us are having success.
    i did resort to sulotion. i sent my fork in . wren replaced the damper and went the extra mile did not charge me. and even take care of return shipping, great service in honoring warranty. a great company to deal with. but the fork is still the same still leans. their initial response was the axle was a wrong axle. but later confirmed the axle was correct and also they informed me they could not confirm my concerns where the fork leans and tire rubs.

    im not trying to bash the fork or wren as a company, my post is just simply warn people who wants to run big tires on these forks that they could have a rub on the leg. and wren states on their site that it would clear 5 inch tires. which was not true in my case.
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i did resort to sulotion. i sent my fork in . wren replaced the damper and went the extra mile did not charge me. and even take care of return shipping, great service in honoring warranty. a great company to deal with. but the fork is still the same still leans. their initial response was the axle was a wrong axle. but later confirmed the axle was correct and also they informed me they could not confirm my concerns where the fork leans and tire rubs.

    im not trying to bash the fork or wren as a company, my post is just simply warn people who wants to run big tires on these forks that they could have a rub on the leg. and wren states on their site that it would clear 5 inch tires. which was not true in my case.
    so maybe what you have identified is not so much a problem as a limitation on tire size.

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