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  1. #151
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    I would love to hear if anybody else is having this issue with the Wren. I was going to purchase a fs fat bike based on using the fork but if they're having problems with the steerer coming loose from the crown I'm going to hold off on the whole project.

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Very interesting, I just had this same problem this past weekend.. tightening down and then the next run, the handlebar was in a new position. Holy crap, I would have never thought it could be the crown to steerer interface.
    I was wondering why you removed the part of your post concerning the crash that you had?

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktmben View Post
    I was wondering why you removed the part of your post concerning the crash that you had?
    No need to create hype with supposition. I don't know for sure if it was the fork or my own poor bike handling skills. Considering how many times I fell on the ski slopes that day, I would put my money on the later.

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    No need to create hype with supposition. I don't know for sure if it was the fork or my own poor bike handling skills. Considering how many times I fell on the ski slopes that day, I would put my money on the later.
    Understood, can you let us know what you find once you do some testing?

  5. #155
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    Please let us hear the conclusion from Wren. Until now they actually have not found anything wing with the tube is loose from the crown? So lets wait to hear.....

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    There is no 100% correct way to run hydraulic hose, however inside is the most common because running it outside exposes it to damage in a crash or from catching trailside debris. I have done both.
    Okay, you have to decide if you are doing hard riding, riding
    With higher risk to crash, then picking up rocks and stuff with the wheels, you will be better off putting the brake house inside then outside.
    I am used to have 5" fat tire with spikes so the tire can be really close picking up ice, snow and rock/mud.

  7. #157
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    xxx

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    There is no 100% correct way to run hydraulic hose, however inside is the most common because running it outside exposes it to damage in a crash or from catching trailside debris. I have done both.
    Exactly, inside is better, less likely to get snagged or abraded in a crash. I always run mine inside, even on muni, no problems.

    As to the steerer being loose, mine is the only one so far. Mine didn't get loose suddenly, it was gradual over the winter, so I'll ride my forks and see how it goes.

    I feel bad for announcing the loose steerer publicly, but it's a safety thing and I would feel complicient if I kept that sort of knowledge to myself.

    I like the fork and I have had nothing but good experiences interacting with Russ and Kevin. I'm confident that Wren is invested in this fork and that they will make it right.

    Go ride, no conspiracys here, just a new product with a few kinks to work out.

  9. #159
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    Hope

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    There is a play in the key and keyways and I think it need to be, to get low friction. But I have never felt these when riding. The fork is sluggish when new, but after 3 weeks of use, mine is good. It might be the Austrian RSP Slick Kick grease they use, and it seems to be overdoing the use of grease. It also might be the key braking in doing the sluggish feel? I have had no problems with my fork in low temp as 0 Fahrenheit. The thing is that the oil needs to be warm by the ride. When commuting with my bike to work the oil never gets working temperature. These is also remarkable with my rear shocks. I used a Cane Creek DB Air until that gave up in the cold, and now I am using a Fox. Both is not getting working temp. When commuting in cold weather.
    Interesting that people copy my post here

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Interesting that people copy my post here
    May be a bot or spammer, I reported it.

  11. #161
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    Hey guys I am the new Wren sales rep for New England and I have some hot off the presses info about the steerer tube issues spoken about earlier in the thread.

    Those are the only two reported problems and because of them an immediate running change has already been made in the production. On the batch of forks that just arrived the part of the tube where it's pressed in has been scored to resist twisting and a 3M adhesive that essentially creates a chemical weld has been added so this shouldn't ever be able to happen again. Another running change is that slick honey is now replacing most of the grease inside other than the air piston grease. This should just about eliminate any stiction and allow for quicker, smoother break-in. Finally the stanchion/downtube bushing has been made stiffer and tighter to get as close to zero movement as possible in that interface without sacrificing performance.

    Hit me with questions, if I know the answer I'll help you out right away, if I don't I'll find it and then answer.

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Hey guys I am the new Wren sales rep for New England and I have some hot off the presses info about the steerer tube issues spoken about earlier in the thread.

    Those are the only two reported problems and because of them an immediate running change has already been made in the production. On the batch of forks that just arrived the part of the tube where it's pressed in has been scored to resist twisting and a 3M adhesive that essentially creates a chemical weld has been added so this shouldn't ever be able to happen again. Another running change is that slick honey is now replacing most of the grease inside other than the air piston grease. This should just about eliminate any stiction and allow for quicker, smoother break-in. Finally the stanchion/downtube bushing has been made stiffer and tighter to get as close to zero movement as possible in that interface without sacrificing performance.

    Hit me with questions, if I know the answer I'll help you out right away, if I don't I'll find it and then answer.
    Welcome! The changes are good to hear. I also heard about a new quick release, any details?

  13. #163
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    As soon as any details are released I will let everybody know.

  14. #164
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    It's good to see Wren addressing the recently-reported issues with plausible solutions...publicly. I think transparency will pay off for them in the long run. This is unlike the secretive behavior of a number of mtb-related companies who choose to hide from their blemishes and think the public won't notice...

  15. #165
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    Years ago I was an early adoptor for a ski binding, it was revolutionary in it's design. I had numerous failures until I finally gave up. That company was also very transparent and responsive. As a result,that product survived it's infancy and has become the standard in the industry. I think inverted forks have a bad rep, but done well they can be exceptional performers. The Wren has potential and the developers are transparent and responsive, which is why I invested in a second Wren.

    If you own a Wren, consider summarizing your thoughts and concerns in an email to Russ. Wren is small, they have the ability to make running changes, unlike other companies with sub performing forks.

    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    It's good to see Wren addressing the recently-reported issues with plausible solutions...publicly. I think transparency will pay off for them in the long run. This is unlike the secretive behavior of a number of mtb-related companies who choose to hide from their blemishes and think the public won't notice...
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 04-04-2016 at 09:22 AM.

  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I think inverted forks have a bad rep, but done well they can be exceptional performers.
    It'll never be a more efficient design, as far as stiffness and strength to weight ratio. It's just easier to produce because you don't need to cast lowers/parts. You can get by CNCing everything or most everything with a forged crown. Possibly better for the low-volume producers, in fact, this has inherently been it's role, Risse, Mr Dirt, Stratos, Avalanche, etc., but too many compromises in terms of torsional rigidity. It could be "the only choice" when larger manufacturers refuse to produce a fork in a certain genre, and with enough weight and engineering, it can be "stiff enough", but put the R&D of any bigger company on it and they can make a lighter and stiffer right-side-up fork with the same specs, unless we are talking 10+ inches of travel.

    Exceptional? Naw. Adequate? Possible.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  17. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It'll never be a more efficient design, as far as stiffness and strength to weight ratio. It's just easier to produce because you don't need to cast lowers/parts. You can get by CNCing everything or most everything with a forged crown. Possibly better for the low-volume producers, in fact, this has inherently been it's role, Risse, Mr Dirt, Stratos, Avalanche, etc., but too many compromises in terms of torsional rigidity. It could be "the only choice" when larger manufacturers refuse to produce a fork in a certain genre, and with enough weight and engineering, it can be "stiff enough", but put the R&D of any bigger company on it and they can make a lighter and stiffer right-side-up fork with the same specs, unless we are talking 10+ inches of travel.

    Exceptional? Naw. Adequate? Possible.
    The lowers are cast, same with the upper.

    Actually, compared to other forks I've ridden (Pike, Revelation, Reba) I'd say the action is just as good, if not better, No stiction at all, whereas the other forks had a bit, even the Pike.

    I could see it being "stiff enough" if they can tighten up the bushings and improve on the axle. I'd love to see a hex axle that really locks in the lowers, but I don't think it'll happen.

  18. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It'll never be
    Thank Jehovah you're here to tell us everything we need to know about something you've never ridden.

  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It'll never be a more efficient design, as far as stiffness and strength to weight ratio. It's just easier to produce because you don't need to cast lowers/parts. You can get by CNCing everything or most everything with a forged crown. Possibly better for the low-volume producers, in fact, this has inherently been it's role, Risse, Mr Dirt, Stratos, Avalanche, etc., but too many compromises in terms of torsional rigidity. It could be "the only choice" when larger manufacturers refuse to produce a fork in a certain genre, and with enough weight and engineering, it can be "stiff enough", but put the R&D of any bigger company on it and they can make a lighter and stiffer right-side-up fork with the same specs, unless we are talking 10+ inches of travel.

    Exceptional? Naw. Adequate? Possible.
    If you have not tried the fork, why can you even judge it? It is ridiculous……I can tell you that it is stiff and rigid enough, so please come back after you have bought one and ridden it for a while. I have been using several Fox models and the latest fork I had, that should be one of the best in class, a Pike with 150mm travel. None of them is better than the Wren. It is plush and stiction free.

  20. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    I could see it being "stiff enough" if they can tighten up the bushings and improve on the axle. I'd love to see a hex axle that really locks in the lowers, but I don't think it'll happen.
    I broke the locking mechanism on my original axle, and what I did was modifying it to work, waiting for the replacement. Actually it did improve a bit, since I was able to get the modified axle to be able to tighten a lot more than the original. I used a threaded rod from the locking arm through the axle pipe and connected to a nut with a washer in the opposite side. Accidently I was able to lock it like normal, but even further by turning the arm and then the rod was tightening into the nut on the other side.

  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    If you have not tried the fork, why can you even judge it? It is ridiculous……I can tell you that it is stiff and rigid enough, so please come back after you have bought one and ridden it for a while. I have been using several Fox models and the latest fork I had, that should be one of the best in class, a Pike with 150mm travel. None of them is better than the Wren. It is plush and stiction free.
    Jayem is an expert at judging equipment he has never tried. Just ask him all about his Cane Creek Double Barrel experience.
    ****

  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Thank Jehovah you're here to tell us everything we need to know about something you've never ridden.
    Doesn't take riding it to know how inverted forks work structurally and how they compare. Time will tell, but I have a feeling they'll remain in their current area, coming and going in limited/low production from small makers for niche markets because they can't afford to cast lowers. What will happen is the large manufacturers will pick up on these niches if they appear to be successful, cast lowers, and then the inverted fork manufacturer will cease to produce said fork and the cycle will repeat itself. It'll never take off because the inverted fork has too many compromises. The "keyed" stanchions/sliders are a great idea, but one could do that on a normal fork and significantly boost rigidity, it just makes the inverted somewhat viable, but more expensive/complex to manufacture, setting up the above scenario for someone to come in and under-cut them.

    Yep, I could be wrong, we could all be riding inverted forks in 5 years...(like we all changed to tapered steerers), but something tells me no, most likely not.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Doesn't take riding it to know how inverted forks work structurally and how they compare. Time will tell, but I have a feeling they'll remain in their current area, coming and going in limited/low production from small makers for niche markets because they can't afford to cast lowers. What will happen is the large manufacturers will pick up on these niches if they appear to be successful, cast lowers, and then the inverted fork manufacturer will cease to produce said fork and the cycle will repeat itself. It'll never take off because the inverted fork has too many compromises. The "keyed" stanchions/sliders are a great idea, but one could do that on a normal fork and significantly boost rigidity, it just makes the inverted somewhat viable, but more expensive/complex to manufacture, setting up the above scenario for someone to come in and under-cut them.

    Yep, I could be wrong, we could all be riding inverted forks in 5 years...(like we all changed to tapered steerers), but something tells me no, most likely not.
    And so what? We enjoy riding these really nice Wren forks, meantime you are wasting time in speculating on the development of the fork manufacturers….. I will advice you to buy a Wren fork, and to go out and ride it. What a waist to wait when you can grab a Wren and just enjoy it until other products are available.!!!!!

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    And so what? We enjoy riding these really nice Wren forks, meantime you are wasting time in speculating on the development of the fork manufacturers….. I will advice you to buy a Wren fork, and to go out and ride it. What a waist to wait when you can grab a Wren and just enjoy it until other products are available.!!!!!
    THat is not how Jayem operates. He doesn't do real testing. His strongest opinions are based on what he reads, not on what he has personally experienced with a specific product. Yes, he rode an inverted fork, how many years ago? Never rode the Wren, but in his head, the Wren must be the same. WHy bother riding it? Just like the early versions on the CCDB shocks are the same as the current ones ( don't know if he ever rode an early version anyway)so lets assume they are the same!
    Jayem, if you have not purchased it, and ridden it on your bike for more than a day, if you have not tried to actually tune it, you don't have any basis for a valid opinion, period.
    ****

  25. #175
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    lol. Try harder.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    lol. Try harder.
    Don't have to. Everyone sees it but you.
    ****

  27. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    Don't have to. Everyone sees it but you.
    You are almost there, keep going!
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  28. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    Don't have to. Everyone sees it but you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    You are almost there, keep going!
    Here. I got you guise something.

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-setheight800-deluxe-room-bedroom.jpg

    Howell, Michigan

  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Here. I got you guise something.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SetHeight800-Deluxe-Room-Bedroom.jpg 
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    I was thinking something with a canopy, soft pillows, mood lighting, thick shag, but yeah, that's pretty much it.

  30. #180
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    I love how this thread went downhill SO QUICK!

    oh and you forgot scented candles and some Chamois Butter

  31. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I was thinking something with a canopy, soft pillows, mood lighting, thick shag, but yeah, that's pretty much it.
    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    I love how this thread went downhill SO QUICK!

    oh and you forgot scented candles and some Chamois Butter
    Well, in general, I reserve that kind of stuff for Jonshonda and my mom.
    Howell, Michigan

  32. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Well, in general, I reserve that kind of stuff for Jonshonda and my mom.
    Chamoois butter is too sticky, I'm a Q Lube kinda guy.

    Candles are dangerous, you get all busy, the next thing you know the drapes are on fire, then you're standing outside the house with your neighbors and they're looking at you wondering why you have feathers stuck to your bare ass.

  33. #183
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    Just curious - Post-mount 160 or 180mm standard on the fork?

  34. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    Just curious - Post-mount 160 or 180mm standard on the fork?
    160mm mount

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    160mm mount
    Thank you.

  36. #186
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    Quick update on my Wren fork situation. After talking to Russ and Kevin, they wanted my fork for analysis and had it picked up. A new fork is on the way and I am excited to unbox it, install, and if I am comfortable enough, race on it this weekend in the West Virginia Enduro Series first race of the 2016 season. After install and a test ride, I will post more info.

    Any other questions, PM me so we don't severely overload this thread.

  37. #187
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    Trust it. Good luck in the race!

  38. #188
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    So the Wren survived its first enduro. I only placed 46 out of 61, but I raced this course cold. This course provided a sample of everything that West Virginia could throw at it, including some 3+ foot rock drops that the Wren swallowed up. I got the fork on Wednesday, installed Thursday, did a ride on Friday morning to break it in and tune it. Out of the box, it was much smoother acting than the first Wren I got. Still super pleased and happy I used it this past weekend. Next race is Sunday.

  39. #189
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    Any race you finish is a good race. Glad to hear you enjoyed the new fork.

  40. #190
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    So I just got a screaming deal on the 110mm travel, 150mm hub version. I have not installed it just yet.. I didn't realize it doesn't have keyed stanchions but I am not sure if that will make much of a difference for me. Its going on a hardtail. I like a small jump here and there and I go over plenty of roots here in the midwest, but its nothing crazy hardcore. Think wiggle in the front wont be too bad?

    Also, as far as I can tell, the version I got does not have a separate upper and lower air chamber fill option. Is that true or am I missing something?

    It did NOT come with the carbon bash guards. Any ideas for an alternative?

  41. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaross View Post
    So I just got a screaming deal on the 110mm travel, 150mm hub version. I have not installed it just yet.. I didn't realize it doesn't have keyed stanchions but I am not sure if that will make much of a difference for me. Its going on a hardtail. I like a small jump here and there and I go over plenty of roots here in the midwest, but its nothing crazy hardcore. Think it will be okay?

    Also, as far as I can tell, the version I got does not have a seperate upper and lower air chamber fill option. Is that true or am I missing something?
    That sounds about right.

    Just ride it, if it has problems, Wren will take care of you.

  42. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    That sounds about right.

    Just ride it, if it has problems, Wren will take care of you.
    Cool, yes of course. Just want to make sure before I cut the steer tube and whatnot.. Sounds good.

    BTW, was the one that you put on your tandem the same (WSF 150-110AT)?

    I can't wait to take this thing out!

  43. #193
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    per my manual, the 110mm version has the single air chamber... ride it, I love mine.

  44. #194
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    I just got my Wren 150/150 today and noticed the manual says 180mm max rotor size. Inverted fork limitation? No biggie for me to find a 180mm rotor and bracket, but it seems at odds with the burliness of the fork. Everyone else observing this limit?

  45. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    I just got my Wren 150/150 today and noticed the manual says 180mm max rotor size. Inverted fork limitation? No biggie for me to find a 180mm rotor and bracket, but it seems at odds with the burliness of the fork. Everyone else observing this limit?
    I have used 200mm for several months now and no issue at all. I am weighing 250 and is doing all sorts of biking.

  46. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaross View Post
    Cool, yes of course. Just want to make sure before I cut the steer tube and whatnot.. Sounds good.

    BTW, was the one that you put on your tandem the same (WSF 150-110AT)?

    I can't wait to take this thing out!
    On the tandem I actually have a 150mm reduced to 120mm, it was a temporary fork until the new 110mm was available. I have the 110mm coming soon, but it shoudl be the same fork as the 150, dual chambers, etc...

    If you have the first gen fork, that fork may not have dual air.

    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    I just got my Wren 150/150 today and noticed the manual says 180mm max rotor size. Inverted fork limitation? No biggie for me to find a 180mm rotor and bracket, but it seems at odds with the burliness of the fork. Everyone else observing this limit?
    There really is no need for a 200mm rotor, brake design has improved significantly in the past few years. Large rotors were mostly used in DH and tandems where heat was an issue. A larger rotor does not increase stopping power as the pad contact area is the same. A larger rotor has drawbacks such as wheel pull and rotors going out of true.

  47. #197
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    Apologies if this has been covered, I didn't see anything in the posts I have read. My concern with any inverted fork is that the sliders are in the danger zone when navigating rocky terrain. I know that the lowers on my standard forks are always beat to heck from scraping on rocks after a couple of months. I am afraid that trashing your sliders would cause problems. Can you protect the sliders on the wren? Is this even a valid concern?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  48. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    There really is no need for a 200mm rotor, brake design has improved significantly in the past few years. Large rotors were mostly used in DH and tandems where heat was an issue. A larger rotor does not increase stopping power as the pad contact area is the same. A larger rotor has drawbacks such as wheel pull and rotors going out of true.
    Total ridiculousness. I had to move down from 203 to 180 on my p.o.s. Bluto because it was over flexing the noodle of a fork. The decrease in stopping power of the 180 vs 203 was nothing short of significant, so much so that the first ride out on the 180 I blew through turns on a trail I know in the dark due to the diminished stopping power. My top speed on that stretch of trail is now limited directly as a result of a 180 mm rotor. It has nothing to do with pad surface area.

    Flex of the Bluto with a 203 is one of the main reasons I am considering the Wren.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  49. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Total ridiculousness. I had to move down from 203 to 180 on my p.o.s. Bluto because it was over flexing the noodle of a fork. The decrease in stopping power of the 180 vs 203 was nothing short of significant, so much so that the first ride out on the 180 I blew through turns on a trail I know in the dark due to the diminished stopping power. My top speed on that stretch of trail is now limited directly as a result of a 180 mm rotor. It has nothing to do with pad surface area.

    Flex of the Bluto with a 203 is one of the main reasons I am considering the Wren.
    Hate to disagree, but your comment brings out the engineer in me. I have used 203mm rotors extensively on everything from bikes, to unicycles, to tandems. The only benefit of a larger rotor is cooling, otherwise larger rotors increase break pull, weigh more, and are more likely to go out of true.

    Braking has everything to do with pad size because stopping a bike requires friction. If you want improved braking power, get a four piston brake with a large pad.

    I don't see why you can't use a 203mm on the Wren, I haven't tried but it seems like the only conflict would be the stanchion guard which has a cutout for the rotor. I'm sure you could trim the guard to make a 203 fit.

    I'll be honest with you, an inverted fork does tend to have problems with torsion, so rotor issues could still be a problem, though I have not had a problem with a 180 rotor.

    I can test fit a 200mm rotor and report back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stu Pidassle View Post
    Apologies if this has been covered, I didn't see anything in the posts I have read. My concern with any inverted fork is that the sliders are in the danger zone when navigating rocky terrain. I know that the lowers on my standard forks are always beat to heck from scraping on rocks after a couple of months. I am afraid that trashing your sliders would cause problems. Can you protect the sliders on the wren? Is this even a valid concern?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    The stanchion protectors work great, I have had no issues with damage or even close calls. On normal forks I have had occasions where I crashed and the stanchion was hit, so I'm more concerned about high hit than low hits.

    The Wren is a pretty burly fork.

  50. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Hate to disagree, but your comment brings out the engineer in me. I have used 203mm rotors extensively on everything from bikes, to unicycles, to tandems. The only benefit of a larger rotor is cooling, otherwise larger rotors increase break pull, weigh more, and are more likely to go out of true.

    Braking has everything to do with pad size because stopping a bike requires friction. If you want improved braking power, get a four piston brake with a large pad.

    I don't see why you can't use a 203mm on the Wren, I haven't tried but it seems like the only conflict would be the stanchion guard which has a cutout for the rotor. I'm sure you could trim the guard to make a 203 fit.

    I'll be honest with you, an inverted fork does tend to have problems with torsion, so rotor issues could still be a problem, though I have not had a problem with a 180 rotor.

    I can test fit a 200mm rotor and report back.



    The stanchion protectors work great, I have had no issues with damage or even close calls. On normal forks I have had occasions where I crashed and the stanchion was hit, so I'm more concerned about high hit than low hits.

    The Wren is a pretty burly fork.
    Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

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