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  1. #101
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    If only there were a way to measure volume in each chamber.

  2. #102
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    I have not tried two pumps, but I have seen that the pressures tend to equalize when check one after the other has been adjusted.

    So they the question is how can they be adjusted independently if they equalize?

    The lower leg air volume is pretty small, I'd say maybe 25% of the upper chamber, just based on how fast it fills relative to the upper.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I do not get different Readings from bottom and top Chamber. Connecting two shock pumps, you will get the same Reading when going to a higher psi. If you go lets say to 60psi in top Chamber it will change in the lower to 60psi simultaneously and vise versa if you fill more in bottom Chamber it will increase Automatic in top chamber....It cannot be changed pressure in one chamber without getting changed pressure in the other, since the pressure is balancing between the the two....

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    If only there were a way to measure volume in each chamber.
    that might be possible by counting numbers of strokes on the shock pump. You need to know how much psi you will increase with one stroke. If you look at the chambers in the drawings I posted in this thread, page 2, you will see the plunger, and in theory it could be quite big these bottom chamber, since the plunger is moving freely.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    If only there were a way to measure volume in each chamber.
    And?
    Handbuilt wheels: www.LaceMine29.com

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    And?
    Knowing how much air volume you fill in to the Chamber is essential, since you get totally Wild Readings when filling top and bottom. And how could you find out how much air volume you did find to be good, when you cannot read the correct pressure?? The only way is to measure the volume of the air you got in there, and that could be counting strokes of the shock pump??

    Today I was riding in 15 Fahrenheit and I might have discovered one reason of the sluggishness?? I did take out air from the bottom chamber and there got less sluggishness. Could it be the plunger and the air pressure in cold weather that is some of the reason also?? I did also put more air into the top chamber and it got even better……. Could be interesting to take out the plunger and see if it baked in grease, causing it to not moving like it should in the cold weather? That should mess up a lot if it is not moving like it should??

  6. #106
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    There was not a ton of grease on the plunger when I broke mine down, but the spring was packed and this could slow the return. Then again, as the fork cools, the air pressure deceases so return will be reduced.

    I turned my damper to zero and this helped.

    The damper oil is the key. Russ said the factory is using Maxima 5wt, which has a viscosity of twenty at 40 celsius and viscosity of five at 100 celsius.

    There are oils that have a narrower temp change difference like Torco 5 (10/5), which is the same oil as Rockshox light 2.5wt.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Knowing how much air volume you fill in to the Chamber is essential, since you get totally Wild Readings when filling top and bottom. And how could you find out how much air volume you did find to be good, when you cannot read the correct pressure?? The only way is to measure the volume of the air you got in there, and that could be counting strokes of the shock pump??

    Today I was riding in 15 Fahrenheit and I might have discovered one reason of the sluggishness?? I did take out air from the bottom chamber and there got less sluggishness. Could it be the plunger and the air pressure in cold weather that is some of the reason also?? I did also put more air into the top chamber and it got even better……. Could be interesting to take out the plunger and see if it baked in grease, causing it to not moving like it should in the cold weather? That should mess up a lot if it is not moving like it should??
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 02-24-2016 at 02:17 PM. Reason: Wrong temperature system

  7. #107
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    So this discussion is great, but I can't wait for it to be 75 degrees and we are posting pictures of our Mutz's hitting gap jumps and rock drops instead of discussing viscosities of below freezing oils and greases.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The damper oil is the key. Russ said the factory is using Maxima 5wt, which has a viscosity of twenty at 40f and viscosity of five at 100f.

    There are oils that have a narrower temp change difference like Torco 5 (10/5), which is the same oil as Rockshox light 2.5wt.
    Okay I thought they emailed me With information of 2.5wt oil from RSP???? Then it is not strange it change so much whent it is Cold. And if it also measure even more in Cold than 5wt then it should be much to gain using a lighter oil?

    So do they want to change to a lighter oil then?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    So this discussion is great, but I can't wait for it to be 75 degrees and we are posting pictures of our Mutz's hitting gap jumps and rock drops instead of discussing viscosities of below freezing oils and greases.
    Dude, where have you been riding? I'm all about hitting winter gap jumps, running couloirs, and dropping cliffs into piles of pow

    I'm actually hip deep into a two bathroom remodel, framing, flooring, plumbing, electrical, completely new everything, all while we try to live in the house. So far I have only been without a toilet for a few hours at a time... though I did have to use the bathroom without a toilet; it felt like my Peace Corps days

    If it stays nice this week, I may head to Seattle for some dirt, so that'll mean 27+ season!

    I've been thinking about reducing the fork to 130mm, this woudl drop the front end a bit and still be more travel than I had with the Bluto. My preference would be 140mm which does not exist yet, so at 150mm I feel a little choppered out.

    My guess on the damper situation is that they will ship with a damper that works for most people, then maybe they'll offer a winter damper for folks who ride in the cold. Until I have a chance to ride an oil with a narrower range of temperature (Norco 5, Redline Blue Light, or even Redline Like Water) it's hard to know if there is a perfect oil for all temps.

    What you don't want is a folk that can't be dampened at 120 deg and you end up pogoing through the desert!

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    And?
    If the pressure in each chamber will be reasonably close to the same, regardless of volume, then volume in each chamber is what changes and what will affect the action of the fork. At least volume relative to the other chamber(%). If you're reading 60 psi, but 95% of that is in the positive chamber and 5% is in the negative chamber, the fork will handle differently than 60%-40%.

  11. #111
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    Nobody who knows how to change oil on the compression unit? Is it needed to bleed the bladder or could it be possible to just assemble dipped into an oil bath? I want to try another oil like 2.5wt.

  12. #112
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    I actually did an interesting observation today. I made a test and unscrewed the seal caps and lubricated inside (just filled the Space inside the ring Down to the seals) with a thin oil. I used a american kind of oil called "Fluid Film" in Aerosol Can, it is lanolin based oil, that is sticking and Lubricates moving parts, also good in the Cold (when it is lanolin based i is not so affected by the cold). There were significantly improvements in the behavior of the fork. Much more speed and plushness imediately. Can the sluggishness be due to lubricating missing on the moving parts, including the seals?? I will do some test ride tomorrow early, since it is a lot colder in the morning, to see if it is as good at it seems to be......

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    If the pressure in each chamber will be reasonably close to the same, regardless of volume, then volume in each chamber is what changes and what will affect the action of the fork. At least volume relative to the other chamber(%). If you're reading 60 psi, but 95% of that is in the positive chamber and 5% is in the negative chamber, the fork will handle differently than 60%-40%.
    I wouldn't suggest doing it to a "good" damper as thiswoudl void your warranty and it could be expensive; also might not work.

    Give it time, I think Mike is working on it.

  14. #114
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    Please add pics of bike/Wren fork setups to this thread. Would love to see more.

  15. #115
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    Ask and you shall receive:

    Large Mutz, Wren 150mm

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160105_224736_resized.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160120_142506_resized_1.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160120_132229_resized.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160207_145948_resized.jpg

  16. #116
    move on up...
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    Great looking rig Ben! What bars are those?

  17. #117
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0406.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0407.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0408.jpg

  18. #118
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-wp_20151224_12_23_48_pro.jpg

  19. #119
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    Rubble.... You need to get the fork guards. I am shocked how much mud and dirty is on the front after a ride. The carbon attachment clamps are pretty cool too.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Rubble.... You need to get the fork guards. I am shocked how much mud and dirty is on the front after a ride. The carbon attachment clamps are pretty cool too.
    Yes I got it now. The Picture is from Christmas time and it was not any snow. Now it has been snow since, and it has been no problem. Actually it is less dirt coming in the lower part of a fork than in the upper, but I have seen lately that the guards is getting a lot of snow on it, so yes it is a good thing.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forged1 View Post
    Great looking rig Ben! What bars are those?
    Kore, 7000 series, good nang for the buck.

  22. #122
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    I just tested with a new tire, and to my big surprise the Maxiss Minion FBR 4.8 did fit in the rear frame on the 90mm Nexties😊. A bit tight but could be okay.
    They seems to be as aggressive or even more than the Dunderbeist. It seems to be a promising front tire the Minion FBF also.

  23. #123
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    A little update:

    I got an email from Russ at Wren, he said that Wren is shooting a video that will show how the damper oil can be changed. This is factory supported, so a big turnaround from the early days when the factory didn't want anyone but an "authorized" dealer to mess with the fork.

    Our temps have warmed, so my freezing days are fewer and fewer. I did notice some increased damping at 20f, but I was able to normalize the damping by opening it all the way; normally I ride with 2 turns of damping (4.5 possible).

    It looks like things are coming along!

  24. #124
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    Looks like we're in shoulder season, snow is corny unless I get on it early, so lunch and after work rides are too warm, so today I tried some moto trails just outside of town.

    After some brief scouting, I headed up a long draw, weaving in and out of the gully, had a few hike-a-bike spots, till I crested the plateau. If I had time I would have put in some miles on the plateau, but I was wanting to get at the down

    I did a repeat, get some love out of the natural kickers whenever I crossed the gully, then rode some sandy woopdy-woops, and called it a day. The Colombia river gorge is in the background on pics 2-4. In pic 4 you can just see the river bend called Crescent Bar, it's a natural area that I want to explore some day; access is tough as they are no roads on that side of the river.

    Going Up!
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_112526_resized.jpg

    Looking down midway:
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_112549_resized.jpg
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_114721_resized.jpg

    From the top:
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_120319_resized.jpg

  25. #125
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    Oh, and the Wren fork works great, excellent compliment to my Mutz/CCI.

  26. #126
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    A new discovery with the fork:
    Did change grease from Rock`n Roll Super Slick to a mixture of Fluid Film (thin lanolin grease from aerosol can) and Slick Honey.
    The reason for doing this is that I have had an air spring damper that I have done some testing in colder weather. When you try to run the air piston through the grease the spring is actually not moving like it should. It moves slowly because of the grease sticking. These must be even worse the colder it gets. This is with the original Slick Kick from RSP.
    Also removed the plunger and greased the seals with slick kick and Fluid film, and cleaned out all of the original grease from the tubes inner and outer. Then I did applied a thin film inside the tubes with (using Fluid Film).
    The fork feels now as plush as ever and it has never been so fast. Needed much more damping then ever before. Let me check tomorrow early since it is getting down to 15 F during the night, to see if it is still fast enough.

  27. #127
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-wp_20160228_12_22_42_pro.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-wp_20160228_11_58_29_pro.jpg

    Had to post a couple of Pictures With snow on it.....

  28. #128
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    The fork is working much more fast in colder weather after cleaning old grease and using thinner grease.

    No doubt. It is for sure getting slower by all grease coated at the spring and that gluing the air piston. This was obvious when testing the spare air spring I have had had laying outside in the Cold.

    Now the fork seems much more smooth and fast. I think it is also important to get rid of the grease on the keys and the keyways.

    Also recogniced that it is acutally 4 keyways inside the tube. So it might be if 2 spare keywas if the first one gets worned out? You might get to turn the tube and use the 2 other ones?

  29. #129
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    Anybody tried the 130 mm setting on the Fork?

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Anybody tried the 130 mm setting on the Fork?
    I was going to try 130mm, but since Wren decided to make a 10mm base clip, I'm waiting on that clip so I can go 140mm

    150mm is not terrible, maybe a little tall in the front end.

  31. #131
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    The fat girl loves getting air....


    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0370.jpg

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I was going to try 130mm, but since Wren decided to make a 10mm base clip, I'm waiting on that clip so I can go 140mm

    150mm is not terrible, maybe a little tall in the front end.

    Yes, let me have some feedback from you when you have changed for 140mm if it is a better height in front of the Mutz then 150mm?
    I think 150 is good, maybe since I run the fork With a bit more than 20% sag, it is no problem I think. I am using the compression adjustment in open when climbing, and the fork is so plush that it will follow any terrain. When I want to get Things a bit more controlled I just turn on the compression.
    Last edited by Rumblefish2010; 03-08-2016 at 03:53 AM.

  33. #133
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    Wren Air Side Disassemble video for changing travel and/or A-C:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvLdCPausWo

    Wren Damper refill video, straight from the factory, not an easy task without a full oil immersion tank. Russ said that the factory is working on a damper redesign that would make it more user friendly to change oil:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/af7v39x7hn...amper.mp4?dl=0

    For my part, since replacing my damper, I have had zero problems with the Wren, it's great fork, leaps and bounds better than a Bluto.

    Russ and Kevin at Wren are doing great things with this fork, it's a solid chasis, I expect it'll continue to improve.

    Speaking of which, there are some good things coming down the pike including damper options and the addition of a 10mm base travel/A-C reduction clip, so expect a more user freindly, user tailorable fork(s) with great adjustment options.

    I like the Wren so much that I'm getting one for my tandem
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 03-10-2016 at 09:57 AM.

  34. #134
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    I just installed my second Wren, this one is a 110mm travel x 150mm hub spacing.

    It's installed on a Ventana El Jefe hardtail tandem running 29+ Dirt Wizards.

    Crown clearance without any adjustment (out of the box) is ~3/4" at the crown, so I expect that it's good to go for the tallest of the 29+.

    No good ride reports yet, but it feels good, just like a shorter travel version of the Wren I run on the Mutz.

    What is nice "this time around" is that the fork doesn't have any slow return issues (damping, grease), so no break in, just plug and play.

    Note that the forks are shipping with the CF stanchion guards installed using CF clamps.

    It seems like Wren is gradually getting the entire package together. The only change pending is the development of a 10mm base spacer, which will be included with the current 20mm base spacer and 10mm spacer. The base spacers must be installed first, so the addition of a 10mm base spacer will allow reductions in travel and A-C in 10mm increments: 150/140/130/120 and 110/100/90/80.

    At this point the only thing that I'd like to see added to the fork is a bolt on axle like a DH fork. I realize this would inconvenience some folks, but the added stiffness would be well worth the trouble. I rarely take my front wheel off, so for me it would be a distinct advantage.

  35. #135
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    The 110 is the one I have my eyes on due to the a-c similarity with the Bluto I have on my Bucksaw. It'll slacken the bike a touch, but I don't think it'll be a huge practical difference. I think the 120mm of the reduced 150 fork WOULD noticeably change things.

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    The 110 is the one I have my eyes on due to the a-c similarity with the Bluto I have on my Bucksaw. It'll slacken the bike a touch, but I don't think it'll be a huge practical difference. I think the 120mm of the reduced 150 fork WOULD noticeably change things.
    Depending on the wheel/tire you run, you can reduce A-C without losing travel.

    Getting a 110mm travel limits going up in travel.

    Getting a 120mm travel limits going down in travel.

    Personally, I don't like a hardtail with a long travel fork, so 120mm woudl be my max in that situation. On the BS, rear travel is 100mm, so I'd think 100-110 would be ideal, maybe 120mm if that was your thing.

    What I notice most going from a 120mm Bluto to a 150mm Wren is that my top tube is really elevated in front, so I bang my knees more when getting wild on tech stuff.

    The additional standover is offset by an increase in pedal clearance

  37. #137
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    Without pictures, you have no proof of the El Jefe.... so unless you like being one of the guys that saw a UFO but have pictures, you need to post some....

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Depending on the wheel/tire you run, you can reduce A-C without losing travel.

    Getting a 110mm travel limits going up in travel.

    Getting a 120mm travel limits going down in travel.

    Personally, I don't like a hardtail with a long travel fork, so 120mm woudl be my max in that situation. On the BS, rear travel is 100mm, so I'd think 100-110 would be ideal, maybe 120mm if that was your thing.

    What I notice most going from a 120mm Bluto to a 150mm Wren is that my top tube is really elevated in front, so I bang my knees more when getting wild on tech stuff.

    The additional standover is offset by an increase in pedal clearance
    The Bucksaw with 100mm Bluto is already LONG enough that I notice it on some local trails, and it makes negotiating certain areas more difficult. Longer a/c also means longer wheelbase, which I don't especially want. I generally like the geometry of the Bucksaw otherwise, so minimal change in that department from my current setup is what I'd prefer. I would NOT be going longer with the fork. If I got another bike, I'd buy another fork.

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Without pictures, you have no proof of the El Jefe.... so unless you like being one of the guys that saw a UFO but have pictures, you need to post some....
    Yeah, yeah, I installed two forks that night, plus I'm remodeling two bathrooms, and I have a driveway paver project in the works, not to mention I need to ride tonight or I'll lose my mind!

    Tomorrow, or maybe the next day

  40. #140
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    Note the stack of flat pack boxes, that's two bathrooms worth of yet to be installed Ikea cabinets... at least I have a functioning shower and toilet.

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195440_resized.jpg

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195450_resized.jpg

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195459_resized.jpg

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195510_resized.jpg

  41. #141
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    Okay, time for full disclosure:

    I had to return my original Wren 150 x 150 fork. The new fork is installed and appears to be working well, better actually than the original. The damper function is smoother and less restrictive, no slow return issues that might be attributed to thick grease or incorrect damping/oil/valving.

    So here's what happened: My stem kept getting loose, so I cranked it down until the edges touched, but it wouldn't get tight. So I assumed it was contamination, so I super cleaned the stem and steerer tube, re-tightened the stem, but it was still loose. Then I decided it was because I had a less expensive stem (RF forged), so I got a CNC'd stem, tightetened it up, but it still slipped. So then I scored the steering tube and use red loctite. And it still slipped!

    Inconceivable you say, well no, just not that common. I pulled the top cap and had my wife watch the steerer tube as I moved the bars, and as I suspected, the stem and steerer moved in tandem; the slippage was between the steerer tube and the crown.

    From my investigations into this sort of failure I found very few examples, one guy said he'd had a Manitou fork do this years ago, a couple other examples for Fox and RS forks, but it does appear to be very uncommon.

    Wren replaced the fork without question, sending me a new fork in three days,there were no additional costs on my part, they just wanted the fork back so they could see what happened. The factory that builds the Wren forks also builds forks for other companies, so I don't think it's a wide spread problem or we'd be seeing this with other forks.

    I still trust Wren, hence my purchase of a second Wren for my tandem.

    I think I just got a bad fork on the first run, bad damper, too much grease, mis-installed steerer. On a bright note, the new fork is working better than ever. I'd compare the feel of my Wren 150 x 150 to a new Pike, the action is smooth as silk.

    I am running slightly higher air pressure, up from 45 to ~70psi, not sure why, perhaps the improved action and damping or maybe there was a change in the spring, but it's all good now.

  42. #142
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    Very interesting, I just had this same problem this past weekend.. tightening down and then the next run, the handlebar was in a new position. Holy crap, I would have never thought it could be the crown to steerer interface.
    Last edited by JCHKeys; 03-25-2016 at 05:00 PM.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Very interesting, I just had this same problem this past weekend.. tightening down and then the next run, the handlebar was in a new position. Holy crap, I would have never thought it could be the crown to steerer interface.

    In the end, I had a horrible crash, my handlebar was both turned and snapped off... now its making more sense.
    Ummm, that's really bad. Do what I did and have someone look at the star nut to see if it moves when you twist the bars. If it doesn't move, then you may have the same problem with your steerer, and you need to contact Wren ASAP.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Okay, time for full disclosure:
    I am running slightly higher air pressure, up from 45 to ~70psi, not sure why, perhaps the improved action and damping or maybe there was a change in the spring, but it's all good now.
    Higher pressure needed for me when I cleaned out the old grease and used Slick Honey. I think you might got a new one with the same grease.

    What happened when you rode with the loose steer tube, did anything dramatic happen?

    Think I will have to check mine too

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Higher pressure needed for me when I cleaned out the old grease and used Slick Honey. I think you might got a new one with the same grease.

    What happened when you rode with the loose steer tube, did anything dramatic happen?

    Think I will have to check mine too
    Before I finally figured out the problem there were a few times where my fork moved a few degrees and I adjusted the stem. When I finally figured it out, I twisted the bars with force and I made the bars go 90 degrees to the fork, so I hung the bike up until my new fork arrived.

    Having a loose steerer is way bad, if anyone discovers a similar problem, they should definitely not ride the bike.

    Just imagine riding along a steep edged trail, hitting a baby head and having your wheel go sideways with no way to turn the wheel back to center. This is how people get killed.

  46. #146
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I still trust Wren, hence my purchase of a second Wren for my tandem.

    I think I just got a bad fork on the first run, bad damper, too much grease, mis-installed steerer. On a bright note, the new fork is working better than ever. I'd compare the feel of my Wren 150 x 150 to a new Pike, the action is smooth as silk..
    Damn, that's a lot of trust. Watch Saturday Night Live: Bad Idea Jeans Online | Hulu
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I have two new forks installed, both forks are going to get quite the workout for spring break (Moab, Fruita, St George), if they fail I'm done, if they don't have problems for the next year I'll feel good about the forks.

    I'd still rather have a long travel burly fork like the Wren than the Bluto. My only other options are wheel rebuilds and using forks with a max 4" tire capacity. I am looking into the Ventana modified MRP Groove, but it'll be over a grand and it'll weigh a ton.

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I have two new forks installed, both forks are going to get quite the workout for spring break (Moab, Fruita, St George), if they fail I'm done, if they don't have problems for the next year I'll feel good about the forks.

    I'd still rather have a long travel burly fork like the Wren than the Bluto. My only other options are wheel rebuilds and using forks with a max 4" tire capacity. I am looking into the Ventana modified MRP Groove, but it'll be over a grand and it'll weigh a ton.
    I had a 170mm travel Monster T that I put 20mm damper-rod extensions in, you could probably machine your own crown for that and make one hell of a strong fork, plus, it'd be heavy like fat bikes. I think those are like 6" wide.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  49. #149
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    I checked mine today. I do expect not to be worried. I did not get any movement. The wheel needs to be twisted to much and will be damaged. Before anything happens to the fork. Of course I can double check with clamping the crown.....

    Did you check only with holding the wheel or did you clamp the n
    Crown?
    Just one comment on the picture of the tandem and the brake cable. I do not recommend to run the cable on the inside of the leg. If the wheel pick up rocks it will hurt the brake pipe. I use the cable zip that comes together with RS reverb (not the stealth), that keeps the cable running like it should when seat down.
    For the wren it is perfect since the brake pipe is running through with the fork moving.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I checked mine today. I do expect not to be worried. I did not get any movement. The wheel needs to be twisted to much and will be damaged. Before anything happens to the fork. Of course I can double check with clamping the crown.....

    Did you check only with holding the wheel or did you clamp the n
    Crown?
    Just one comment on the picture of the tandem and the brake cable. I do not recommend to run the cable on the inside of the leg. If the wheel pick up rocks it will hurt the brake pipe. I use the cable zip that comes together with RS reverb (not the stealth), that keeps the cable running like it should when seat down.
    For the wren it is perfect since the brake pipe is running through with the fork moving.
    There is no 100% correct way to run hydraulic hose, however inside is the most common because running it outside exposes it to damage in a crash or from catching trailside debris. I have done both.

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