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  1. #101
    is buachail foighneach me
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    If only there were a way to measure volume in each chamber.

  2. #102
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    I have not tried two pumps, but I have seen that the pressures tend to equalize when check one after the other has been adjusted.

    So they the question is how can they be adjusted independently if they equalize?

    The lower leg air volume is pretty small, I'd say maybe 25% of the upper chamber, just based on how fast it fills relative to the upper.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I do not get different Readings from bottom and top Chamber. Connecting two shock pumps, you will get the same Reading when going to a higher psi. If you go lets say to 60psi in top Chamber it will change in the lower to 60psi simultaneously and vise versa if you fill more in bottom Chamber it will increase Automatic in top chamber....It cannot be changed pressure in one chamber without getting changed pressure in the other, since the pressure is balancing between the the two....

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    If only there were a way to measure volume in each chamber.
    that might be possible by counting numbers of strokes on the shock pump. You need to know how much psi you will increase with one stroke. If you look at the chambers in the drawings I posted in this thread, page 2, you will see the plunger, and in theory it could be quite big these bottom chamber, since the plunger is moving freely.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    If only there were a way to measure volume in each chamber.
    And?

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    And?
    Knowing how much air volume you fill in to the Chamber is essential, since you get totally Wild Readings when filling top and bottom. And how could you find out how much air volume you did find to be good, when you cannot read the correct pressure?? The only way is to measure the volume of the air you got in there, and that could be counting strokes of the shock pump??

    Today I was riding in 15 Fahrenheit and I might have discovered one reason of the sluggishness?? I did take out air from the bottom chamber and there got less sluggishness. Could it be the plunger and the air pressure in cold weather that is some of the reason also?? I did also put more air into the top chamber and it got even better……. Could be interesting to take out the plunger and see if it baked in grease, causing it to not moving like it should in the cold weather? That should mess up a lot if it is not moving like it should??

  6. #106
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    There was not a ton of grease on the plunger when I broke mine down, but the spring was packed and this could slow the return. Then again, as the fork cools, the air pressure deceases so return will be reduced.

    I turned my damper to zero and this helped.

    The damper oil is the key. Russ said the factory is using Maxima 5wt, which has a viscosity of twenty at 40 celsius and viscosity of five at 100 celsius.

    There are oils that have a narrower temp change difference like Torco 5 (10/5), which is the same oil as Rockshox light 2.5wt.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Knowing how much air volume you fill in to the Chamber is essential, since you get totally Wild Readings when filling top and bottom. And how could you find out how much air volume you did find to be good, when you cannot read the correct pressure?? The only way is to measure the volume of the air you got in there, and that could be counting strokes of the shock pump??

    Today I was riding in 15 Fahrenheit and I might have discovered one reason of the sluggishness?? I did take out air from the bottom chamber and there got less sluggishness. Could it be the plunger and the air pressure in cold weather that is some of the reason also?? I did also put more air into the top chamber and it got even better……. Could be interesting to take out the plunger and see if it baked in grease, causing it to not moving like it should in the cold weather? That should mess up a lot if it is not moving like it should??
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 02-24-2016 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Wrong temperature system

  7. #107
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    So this discussion is great, but I can't wait for it to be 75 degrees and we are posting pictures of our Mutz's hitting gap jumps and rock drops instead of discussing viscosities of below freezing oils and greases.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The damper oil is the key. Russ said the factory is using Maxima 5wt, which has a viscosity of twenty at 40f and viscosity of five at 100f.

    There are oils that have a narrower temp change difference like Torco 5 (10/5), which is the same oil as Rockshox light 2.5wt.
    Okay I thought they emailed me With information of 2.5wt oil from RSP???? Then it is not strange it change so much whent it is Cold. And if it also measure even more in Cold than 5wt then it should be much to gain using a lighter oil?

    So do they want to change to a lighter oil then?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    So this discussion is great, but I can't wait for it to be 75 degrees and we are posting pictures of our Mutz's hitting gap jumps and rock drops instead of discussing viscosities of below freezing oils and greases.
    Dude, where have you been riding? I'm all about hitting winter gap jumps, running couloirs, and dropping cliffs into piles of pow

    I'm actually hip deep into a two bathroom remodel, framing, flooring, plumbing, electrical, completely new everything, all while we try to live in the house. So far I have only been without a toilet for a few hours at a time... though I did have to use the bathroom without a toilet; it felt like my Peace Corps days

    If it stays nice this week, I may head to Seattle for some dirt, so that'll mean 27+ season!

    I've been thinking about reducing the fork to 130mm, this woudl drop the front end a bit and still be more travel than I had with the Bluto. My preference would be 140mm which does not exist yet, so at 150mm I feel a little choppered out.

    My guess on the damper situation is that they will ship with a damper that works for most people, then maybe they'll offer a winter damper for folks who ride in the cold. Until I have a chance to ride an oil with a narrower range of temperature (Norco 5, Redline Blue Light, or even Redline Like Water) it's hard to know if there is a perfect oil for all temps.

    What you don't want is a folk that can't be dampened at 120 deg and you end up pogoing through the desert!

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    And?
    If the pressure in each chamber will be reasonably close to the same, regardless of volume, then volume in each chamber is what changes and what will affect the action of the fork. At least volume relative to the other chamber(%). If you're reading 60 psi, but 95% of that is in the positive chamber and 5% is in the negative chamber, the fork will handle differently than 60%-40%.

  11. #111
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    Nobody who knows how to change oil on the compression unit? Is it needed to bleed the bladder or could it be possible to just assemble dipped into an oil bath? I want to try another oil like 2.5wt.

  12. #112
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    I actually did an interesting observation today. I made a test and unscrewed the seal caps and lubricated inside (just filled the Space inside the ring Down to the seals) with a thin oil. I used a american kind of oil called "Fluid Film" in Aerosol Can, it is lanolin based oil, that is sticking and Lubricates moving parts, also good in the Cold (when it is lanolin based i is not so affected by the cold). There were significantly improvements in the behavior of the fork. Much more speed and plushness imediately. Can the sluggishness be due to lubricating missing on the moving parts, including the seals?? I will do some test ride tomorrow early, since it is a lot colder in the morning, to see if it is as good at it seems to be......

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    If the pressure in each chamber will be reasonably close to the same, regardless of volume, then volume in each chamber is what changes and what will affect the action of the fork. At least volume relative to the other chamber(%). If you're reading 60 psi, but 95% of that is in the positive chamber and 5% is in the negative chamber, the fork will handle differently than 60%-40%.
    I wouldn't suggest doing it to a "good" damper as thiswoudl void your warranty and it could be expensive; also might not work.

    Give it time, I think Mike is working on it.

  14. #114
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    Please add pics of bike/Wren fork setups to this thread. Would love to see more.

  15. #115
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    Ask and you shall receive:

    Large Mutz, Wren 150mm

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160105_224736_resized.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160120_142506_resized_1.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160120_132229_resized.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160207_145948_resized.jpg

  16. #116
    move on up...
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    Great looking rig Ben! What bars are those?

  17. #117
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0406.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0407.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0408.jpg

  18. #118
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-wp_20151224_12_23_48_pro.jpg

  19. #119
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    Rubble.... You need to get the fork guards. I am shocked how much mud and dirty is on the front after a ride. The carbon attachment clamps are pretty cool too.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Rubble.... You need to get the fork guards. I am shocked how much mud and dirty is on the front after a ride. The carbon attachment clamps are pretty cool too.
    Yes I got it now. The Picture is from Christmas time and it was not any snow. Now it has been snow since, and it has been no problem. Actually it is less dirt coming in the lower part of a fork than in the upper, but I have seen lately that the guards is getting a lot of snow on it, so yes it is a good thing.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forged1 View Post
    Great looking rig Ben! What bars are those?
    Kore, 7000 series, good nang for the buck.

  22. #122
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    I just tested with a new tire, and to my big surprise the Maxiss Minion FBR 4.8 did fit in the rear frame on the 90mm Nexties😊. A bit tight but could be okay.
    They seems to be as aggressive or even more than the Dunderbeist. It seems to be a promising front tire the Minion FBF also.

  23. #123
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    A little update:

    I got an email from Russ at Wren, he said that Wren is shooting a video that will show how the damper oil can be changed. This is factory supported, so a big turnaround from the early days when the factory didn't want anyone but an "authorized" dealer to mess with the fork.

    Our temps have warmed, so my freezing days are fewer and fewer. I did notice some increased damping at 20f, but I was able to normalize the damping by opening it all the way; normally I ride with 2 turns of damping (4.5 possible).

    It looks like things are coming along!

  24. #124
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    Looks like we're in shoulder season, snow is corny unless I get on it early, so lunch and after work rides are too warm, so today I tried some moto trails just outside of town.

    After some brief scouting, I headed up a long draw, weaving in and out of the gully, had a few hike-a-bike spots, till I crested the plateau. If I had time I would have put in some miles on the plateau, but I was wanting to get at the down

    I did a repeat, get some love out of the natural kickers whenever I crossed the gully, then rode some sandy woopdy-woops, and called it a day. The Colombia river gorge is in the background on pics 2-4. In pic 4 you can just see the river bend called Crescent Bar, it's a natural area that I want to explore some day; access is tough as they are no roads on that side of the river.

    Going Up!
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_112526_resized.jpg

    Looking down midway:
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_112549_resized.jpg
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_114721_resized.jpg

    From the top:
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160224_120319_resized.jpg

  25. #125
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    Oh, and the Wren fork works great, excellent compliment to my Mutz/CCI.

  26. #126
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    A new discovery with the fork:
    Did change grease from Rock`n Roll Super Slick to a mixture of Fluid Film (thin lanolin grease from aerosol can) and Slick Honey.
    The reason for doing this is that I have had an air spring damper that I have done some testing in colder weather. When you try to run the air piston through the grease the spring is actually not moving like it should. It moves slowly because of the grease sticking. These must be even worse the colder it gets. This is with the original Slick Kick from RSP.
    Also removed the plunger and greased the seals with slick kick and Fluid film, and cleaned out all of the original grease from the tubes inner and outer. Then I did applied a thin film inside the tubes with (using Fluid Film).
    The fork feels now as plush as ever and it has never been so fast. Needed much more damping then ever before. Let me check tomorrow early since it is getting down to 15 F during the night, to see if it is still fast enough.

  27. #127
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-wp_20160228_12_22_42_pro.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-wp_20160228_11_58_29_pro.jpg

    Had to post a couple of Pictures With snow on it.....

  28. #128
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    The fork is working much more fast in colder weather after cleaning old grease and using thinner grease.

    No doubt. It is for sure getting slower by all grease coated at the spring and that gluing the air piston. This was obvious when testing the spare air spring I have had had laying outside in the Cold.

    Now the fork seems much more smooth and fast. I think it is also important to get rid of the grease on the keys and the keyways.

    Also recogniced that it is acutally 4 keyways inside the tube. So it might be if 2 spare keywas if the first one gets worned out? You might get to turn the tube and use the 2 other ones?

  29. #129
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    Anybody tried the 130 mm setting on the Fork?

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Anybody tried the 130 mm setting on the Fork?
    I was going to try 130mm, but since Wren decided to make a 10mm base clip, I'm waiting on that clip so I can go 140mm

    150mm is not terrible, maybe a little tall in the front end.

  31. #131
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    The fat girl loves getting air....


    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-img_0370.jpg

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I was going to try 130mm, but since Wren decided to make a 10mm base clip, I'm waiting on that clip so I can go 140mm

    150mm is not terrible, maybe a little tall in the front end.

    Yes, let me have some feedback from you when you have changed for 140mm if it is a better height in front of the Mutz then 150mm?
    I think 150 is good, maybe since I run the fork With a bit more than 20% sag, it is no problem I think. I am using the compression adjustment in open when climbing, and the fork is so plush that it will follow any terrain. When I want to get Things a bit more controlled I just turn on the compression.
    Last edited by Rumblefish2010; 03-08-2016 at 04:53 AM.

  33. #133
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    Wren Air Side Disassemble video for changing travel and/or A-C:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvLdCPausWo

    Wren Damper refill video, straight from the factory, not an easy task without a full oil immersion tank. Russ said that the factory is working on a damper redesign that would make it more user friendly to change oil:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/af7v39x7hn...amper.mp4?dl=0

    For my part, since replacing my damper, I have had zero problems with the Wren, it's great fork, leaps and bounds better than a Bluto.

    Russ and Kevin at Wren are doing great things with this fork, it's a solid chasis, I expect it'll continue to improve.

    Speaking of which, there are some good things coming down the pike including damper options and the addition of a 10mm base travel/A-C reduction clip, so expect a more user freindly, user tailorable fork(s) with great adjustment options.

    I like the Wren so much that I'm getting one for my tandem
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 03-10-2016 at 10:57 AM.

  34. #134
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    I just installed my second Wren, this one is a 110mm travel x 150mm hub spacing.

    It's installed on a Ventana El Jefe hardtail tandem running 29+ Dirt Wizards.

    Crown clearance without any adjustment (out of the box) is ~3/4" at the crown, so I expect that it's good to go for the tallest of the 29+.

    No good ride reports yet, but it feels good, just like a shorter travel version of the Wren I run on the Mutz.

    What is nice "this time around" is that the fork doesn't have any slow return issues (damping, grease), so no break in, just plug and play.

    Note that the forks are shipping with the CF stanchion guards installed using CF clamps.

    It seems like Wren is gradually getting the entire package together. The only change pending is the development of a 10mm base spacer, which will be included with the current 20mm base spacer and 10mm spacer. The base spacers must be installed first, so the addition of a 10mm base spacer will allow reductions in travel and A-C in 10mm increments: 150/140/130/120 and 110/100/90/80.

    At this point the only thing that I'd like to see added to the fork is a bolt on axle like a DH fork. I realize this would inconvenience some folks, but the added stiffness would be well worth the trouble. I rarely take my front wheel off, so for me it would be a distinct advantage.

  35. #135
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    The 110 is the one I have my eyes on due to the a-c similarity with the Bluto I have on my Bucksaw. It'll slacken the bike a touch, but I don't think it'll be a huge practical difference. I think the 120mm of the reduced 150 fork WOULD noticeably change things.

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    The 110 is the one I have my eyes on due to the a-c similarity with the Bluto I have on my Bucksaw. It'll slacken the bike a touch, but I don't think it'll be a huge practical difference. I think the 120mm of the reduced 150 fork WOULD noticeably change things.
    Depending on the wheel/tire you run, you can reduce A-C without losing travel.

    Getting a 110mm travel limits going up in travel.

    Getting a 120mm travel limits going down in travel.

    Personally, I don't like a hardtail with a long travel fork, so 120mm woudl be my max in that situation. On the BS, rear travel is 100mm, so I'd think 100-110 would be ideal, maybe 120mm if that was your thing.

    What I notice most going from a 120mm Bluto to a 150mm Wren is that my top tube is really elevated in front, so I bang my knees more when getting wild on tech stuff.

    The additional standover is offset by an increase in pedal clearance

  37. #137
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    Without pictures, you have no proof of the El Jefe.... so unless you like being one of the guys that saw a UFO but have pictures, you need to post some....

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Depending on the wheel/tire you run, you can reduce A-C without losing travel.

    Getting a 110mm travel limits going up in travel.

    Getting a 120mm travel limits going down in travel.

    Personally, I don't like a hardtail with a long travel fork, so 120mm woudl be my max in that situation. On the BS, rear travel is 100mm, so I'd think 100-110 would be ideal, maybe 120mm if that was your thing.

    What I notice most going from a 120mm Bluto to a 150mm Wren is that my top tube is really elevated in front, so I bang my knees more when getting wild on tech stuff.

    The additional standover is offset by an increase in pedal clearance
    The Bucksaw with 100mm Bluto is already LONG enough that I notice it on some local trails, and it makes negotiating certain areas more difficult. Longer a/c also means longer wheelbase, which I don't especially want. I generally like the geometry of the Bucksaw otherwise, so minimal change in that department from my current setup is what I'd prefer. I would NOT be going longer with the fork. If I got another bike, I'd buy another fork.

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Without pictures, you have no proof of the El Jefe.... so unless you like being one of the guys that saw a UFO but have pictures, you need to post some....
    Yeah, yeah, I installed two forks that night, plus I'm remodeling two bathrooms, and I have a driveway paver project in the works, not to mention I need to ride tonight or I'll lose my mind!

    Tomorrow, or maybe the next day

  40. #140
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    Note the stack of flat pack boxes, that's two bathrooms worth of yet to be installed Ikea cabinets... at least I have a functioning shower and toilet.

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195440_resized.jpg

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195450_resized.jpg

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195459_resized.jpg

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160324_195510_resized.jpg

  41. #141
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    Okay, time for full disclosure:

    I had to return my original Wren 150 x 150 fork. The new fork is installed and appears to be working well, better actually than the original. The damper function is smoother and less restrictive, no slow return issues that might be attributed to thick grease or incorrect damping/oil/valving.

    So here's what happened: My stem kept getting loose, so I cranked it down until the edges touched, but it wouldn't get tight. So I assumed it was contamination, so I super cleaned the stem and steerer tube, re-tightened the stem, but it was still loose. Then I decided it was because I had a less expensive stem (RF forged), so I got a CNC'd stem, tightetened it up, but it still slipped. So then I scored the steering tube and use red loctite. And it still slipped!

    Inconceivable you say, well no, just not that common. I pulled the top cap and had my wife watch the steerer tube as I moved the bars, and as I suspected, the stem and steerer moved in tandem; the slippage was between the steerer tube and the crown.

    From my investigations into this sort of failure I found very few examples, one guy said he'd had a Manitou fork do this years ago, a couple other examples for Fox and RS forks, but it does appear to be very uncommon.

    Wren replaced the fork without question, sending me a new fork in three days,there were no additional costs on my part, they just wanted the fork back so they could see what happened. The factory that builds the Wren forks also builds forks for other companies, so I don't think it's a wide spread problem or we'd be seeing this with other forks.

    I still trust Wren, hence my purchase of a second Wren for my tandem.

    I think I just got a bad fork on the first run, bad damper, too much grease, mis-installed steerer. On a bright note, the new fork is working better than ever. I'd compare the feel of my Wren 150 x 150 to a new Pike, the action is smooth as silk.

    I am running slightly higher air pressure, up from 45 to ~70psi, not sure why, perhaps the improved action and damping or maybe there was a change in the spring, but it's all good now.

  42. #142
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    Very interesting, I just had this same problem this past weekend.. tightening down and then the next run, the handlebar was in a new position. Holy crap, I would have never thought it could be the crown to steerer interface.
    Last edited by JCHKeys; 03-25-2016 at 05:00 PM.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Very interesting, I just had this same problem this past weekend.. tightening down and then the next run, the handlebar was in a new position. Holy crap, I would have never thought it could be the crown to steerer interface.

    In the end, I had a horrible crash, my handlebar was both turned and snapped off... now its making more sense.
    Ummm, that's really bad. Do what I did and have someone look at the star nut to see if it moves when you twist the bars. If it doesn't move, then you may have the same problem with your steerer, and you need to contact Wren ASAP.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Okay, time for full disclosure:
    I am running slightly higher air pressure, up from 45 to ~70psi, not sure why, perhaps the improved action and damping or maybe there was a change in the spring, but it's all good now.
    Higher pressure needed for me when I cleaned out the old grease and used Slick Honey. I think you might got a new one with the same grease.

    What happened when you rode with the loose steer tube, did anything dramatic happen?

    Think I will have to check mine too

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Higher pressure needed for me when I cleaned out the old grease and used Slick Honey. I think you might got a new one with the same grease.

    What happened when you rode with the loose steer tube, did anything dramatic happen?

    Think I will have to check mine too
    Before I finally figured out the problem there were a few times where my fork moved a few degrees and I adjusted the stem. When I finally figured it out, I twisted the bars with force and I made the bars go 90 degrees to the fork, so I hung the bike up until my new fork arrived.

    Having a loose steerer is way bad, if anyone discovers a similar problem, they should definitely not ride the bike.

    Just imagine riding along a steep edged trail, hitting a baby head and having your wheel go sideways with no way to turn the wheel back to center. This is how people get killed.

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I still trust Wren, hence my purchase of a second Wren for my tandem.

    I think I just got a bad fork on the first run, bad damper, too much grease, mis-installed steerer. On a bright note, the new fork is working better than ever. I'd compare the feel of my Wren 150 x 150 to a new Pike, the action is smooth as silk..
    Damn, that's a lot of trust. Watch Saturday Night Live: Bad Idea Jeans Online | Hulu
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I have two new forks installed, both forks are going to get quite the workout for spring break (Moab, Fruita, St George), if they fail I'm done, if they don't have problems for the next year I'll feel good about the forks.

    I'd still rather have a long travel burly fork like the Wren than the Bluto. My only other options are wheel rebuilds and using forks with a max 4" tire capacity. I am looking into the Ventana modified MRP Groove, but it'll be over a grand and it'll weigh a ton.

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I have two new forks installed, both forks are going to get quite the workout for spring break (Moab, Fruita, St George), if they fail I'm done, if they don't have problems for the next year I'll feel good about the forks.

    I'd still rather have a long travel burly fork like the Wren than the Bluto. My only other options are wheel rebuilds and using forks with a max 4" tire capacity. I am looking into the Ventana modified MRP Groove, but it'll be over a grand and it'll weigh a ton.
    I had a 170mm travel Monster T that I put 20mm damper-rod extensions in, you could probably machine your own crown for that and make one hell of a strong fork, plus, it'd be heavy like fat bikes. I think those are like 6" wide.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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    I checked mine today. I do expect not to be worried. I did not get any movement. The wheel needs to be twisted to much and will be damaged. Before anything happens to the fork. Of course I can double check with clamping the crown.....

    Did you check only with holding the wheel or did you clamp the n
    Crown?
    Just one comment on the picture of the tandem and the brake cable. I do not recommend to run the cable on the inside of the leg. If the wheel pick up rocks it will hurt the brake pipe. I use the cable zip that comes together with RS reverb (not the stealth), that keeps the cable running like it should when seat down.
    For the wren it is perfect since the brake pipe is running through with the fork moving.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I checked mine today. I do expect not to be worried. I did not get any movement. The wheel needs to be twisted to much and will be damaged. Before anything happens to the fork. Of course I can double check with clamping the crown.....

    Did you check only with holding the wheel or did you clamp the n
    Crown?
    Just one comment on the picture of the tandem and the brake cable. I do not recommend to run the cable on the inside of the leg. If the wheel pick up rocks it will hurt the brake pipe. I use the cable zip that comes together with RS reverb (not the stealth), that keeps the cable running like it should when seat down.
    For the wren it is perfect since the brake pipe is running through with the fork moving.
    There is no 100% correct way to run hydraulic hose, however inside is the most common because running it outside exposes it to damage in a crash or from catching trailside debris. I have done both.

  51. #151
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    I would love to hear if anybody else is having this issue with the Wren. I was going to purchase a fs fat bike based on using the fork but if they're having problems with the steerer coming loose from the crown I'm going to hold off on the whole project.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    Very interesting, I just had this same problem this past weekend.. tightening down and then the next run, the handlebar was in a new position. Holy crap, I would have never thought it could be the crown to steerer interface.
    I was wondering why you removed the part of your post concerning the crash that you had?

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktmben View Post
    I was wondering why you removed the part of your post concerning the crash that you had?
    No need to create hype with supposition. I don't know for sure if it was the fork or my own poor bike handling skills. Considering how many times I fell on the ski slopes that day, I would put my money on the later.

  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    No need to create hype with supposition. I don't know for sure if it was the fork or my own poor bike handling skills. Considering how many times I fell on the ski slopes that day, I would put my money on the later.
    Understood, can you let us know what you find once you do some testing?

  55. #155
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    Please let us hear the conclusion from Wren. Until now they actually have not found anything wing with the tube is loose from the crown? So lets wait to hear.....

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    There is no 100% correct way to run hydraulic hose, however inside is the most common because running it outside exposes it to damage in a crash or from catching trailside debris. I have done both.
    Okay, you have to decide if you are doing hard riding, riding
    With higher risk to crash, then picking up rocks and stuff with the wheels, you will be better off putting the brake house inside then outside.
    I am used to have 5" fat tire with spikes so the tire can be really close picking up ice, snow and rock/mud.

  57. #157
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    xxx

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    There is no 100% correct way to run hydraulic hose, however inside is the most common because running it outside exposes it to damage in a crash or from catching trailside debris. I have done both.
    Exactly, inside is better, less likely to get snagged or abraded in a crash. I always run mine inside, even on muni, no problems.

    As to the steerer being loose, mine is the only one so far. Mine didn't get loose suddenly, it was gradual over the winter, so I'll ride my forks and see how it goes.

    I feel bad for announcing the loose steerer publicly, but it's a safety thing and I would feel complicient if I kept that sort of knowledge to myself.

    I like the fork and I have had nothing but good experiences interacting with Russ and Kevin. I'm confident that Wren is invested in this fork and that they will make it right.

    Go ride, no conspiracys here, just a new product with a few kinks to work out.

  59. #159
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    Hope

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    There is a play in the key and keyways and I think it need to be, to get low friction. But I have never felt these when riding. The fork is sluggish when new, but after 3 weeks of use, mine is good. It might be the Austrian RSP Slick Kick grease they use, and it seems to be overdoing the use of grease. It also might be the key braking in doing the sluggish feel? I have had no problems with my fork in low temp as 0 Fahrenheit. The thing is that the oil needs to be warm by the ride. When commuting with my bike to work the oil never gets working temperature. These is also remarkable with my rear shocks. I used a Cane Creek DB Air until that gave up in the cold, and now I am using a Fox. Both is not getting working temp. When commuting in cold weather.
    Interesting that people copy my post here

  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Interesting that people copy my post here
    May be a bot or spammer, I reported it.

  61. #161
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    Hey guys I am the new Wren sales rep for New England and I have some hot off the presses info about the steerer tube issues spoken about earlier in the thread.

    Those are the only two reported problems and because of them an immediate running change has already been made in the production. On the batch of forks that just arrived the part of the tube where it's pressed in has been scored to resist twisting and a 3M adhesive that essentially creates a chemical weld has been added so this shouldn't ever be able to happen again. Another running change is that slick honey is now replacing most of the grease inside other than the air piston grease. This should just about eliminate any stiction and allow for quicker, smoother break-in. Finally the stanchion/downtube bushing has been made stiffer and tighter to get as close to zero movement as possible in that interface without sacrificing performance.

    Hit me with questions, if I know the answer I'll help you out right away, if I don't I'll find it and then answer.

  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Hey guys I am the new Wren sales rep for New England and I have some hot off the presses info about the steerer tube issues spoken about earlier in the thread.

    Those are the only two reported problems and because of them an immediate running change has already been made in the production. On the batch of forks that just arrived the part of the tube where it's pressed in has been scored to resist twisting and a 3M adhesive that essentially creates a chemical weld has been added so this shouldn't ever be able to happen again. Another running change is that slick honey is now replacing most of the grease inside other than the air piston grease. This should just about eliminate any stiction and allow for quicker, smoother break-in. Finally the stanchion/downtube bushing has been made stiffer and tighter to get as close to zero movement as possible in that interface without sacrificing performance.

    Hit me with questions, if I know the answer I'll help you out right away, if I don't I'll find it and then answer.
    Welcome! The changes are good to hear. I also heard about a new quick release, any details?

  63. #163
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    As soon as any details are released I will let everybody know.

  64. #164
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    It's good to see Wren addressing the recently-reported issues with plausible solutions...publicly. I think transparency will pay off for them in the long run. This is unlike the secretive behavior of a number of mtb-related companies who choose to hide from their blemishes and think the public won't notice...

  65. #165
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    Years ago I was an early adoptor for a ski binding, it was revolutionary in it's design. I had numerous failures until I finally gave up. That company was also very transparent and responsive. As a result,that product survived it's infancy and has become the standard in the industry. I think inverted forks have a bad rep, but done well they can be exceptional performers. The Wren has potential and the developers are transparent and responsive, which is why I invested in a second Wren.

    If you own a Wren, consider summarizing your thoughts and concerns in an email to Russ. Wren is small, they have the ability to make running changes, unlike other companies with sub performing forks.

    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    It's good to see Wren addressing the recently-reported issues with plausible solutions...publicly. I think transparency will pay off for them in the long run. This is unlike the secretive behavior of a number of mtb-related companies who choose to hide from their blemishes and think the public won't notice...
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 04-04-2016 at 09:22 AM.

  66. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I think inverted forks have a bad rep, but done well they can be exceptional performers.
    It'll never be a more efficient design, as far as stiffness and strength to weight ratio. It's just easier to produce because you don't need to cast lowers/parts. You can get by CNCing everything or most everything with a forged crown. Possibly better for the low-volume producers, in fact, this has inherently been it's role, Risse, Mr Dirt, Stratos, Avalanche, etc., but too many compromises in terms of torsional rigidity. It could be "the only choice" when larger manufacturers refuse to produce a fork in a certain genre, and with enough weight and engineering, it can be "stiff enough", but put the R&D of any bigger company on it and they can make a lighter and stiffer right-side-up fork with the same specs, unless we are talking 10+ inches of travel.

    Exceptional? Naw. Adequate? Possible.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It'll never be a more efficient design, as far as stiffness and strength to weight ratio. It's just easier to produce because you don't need to cast lowers/parts. You can get by CNCing everything or most everything with a forged crown. Possibly better for the low-volume producers, in fact, this has inherently been it's role, Risse, Mr Dirt, Stratos, Avalanche, etc., but too many compromises in terms of torsional rigidity. It could be "the only choice" when larger manufacturers refuse to produce a fork in a certain genre, and with enough weight and engineering, it can be "stiff enough", but put the R&D of any bigger company on it and they can make a lighter and stiffer right-side-up fork with the same specs, unless we are talking 10+ inches of travel.

    Exceptional? Naw. Adequate? Possible.
    The lowers are cast, same with the upper.

    Actually, compared to other forks I've ridden (Pike, Revelation, Reba) I'd say the action is just as good, if not better, No stiction at all, whereas the other forks had a bit, even the Pike.

    I could see it being "stiff enough" if they can tighten up the bushings and improve on the axle. I'd love to see a hex axle that really locks in the lowers, but I don't think it'll happen.

  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It'll never be
    Thank Jehovah you're here to tell us everything we need to know about something you've never ridden.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It'll never be a more efficient design, as far as stiffness and strength to weight ratio. It's just easier to produce because you don't need to cast lowers/parts. You can get by CNCing everything or most everything with a forged crown. Possibly better for the low-volume producers, in fact, this has inherently been it's role, Risse, Mr Dirt, Stratos, Avalanche, etc., but too many compromises in terms of torsional rigidity. It could be "the only choice" when larger manufacturers refuse to produce a fork in a certain genre, and with enough weight and engineering, it can be "stiff enough", but put the R&D of any bigger company on it and they can make a lighter and stiffer right-side-up fork with the same specs, unless we are talking 10+ inches of travel.

    Exceptional? Naw. Adequate? Possible.
    If you have not tried the fork, why can you even judge it? It is ridiculous……I can tell you that it is stiff and rigid enough, so please come back after you have bought one and ridden it for a while. I have been using several Fox models and the latest fork I had, that should be one of the best in class, a Pike with 150mm travel. None of them is better than the Wren. It is plush and stiction free.

  70. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    I could see it being "stiff enough" if they can tighten up the bushings and improve on the axle. I'd love to see a hex axle that really locks in the lowers, but I don't think it'll happen.
    I broke the locking mechanism on my original axle, and what I did was modifying it to work, waiting for the replacement. Actually it did improve a bit, since I was able to get the modified axle to be able to tighten a lot more than the original. I used a threaded rod from the locking arm through the axle pipe and connected to a nut with a washer in the opposite side. Accidently I was able to lock it like normal, but even further by turning the arm and then the rod was tightening into the nut on the other side.

  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    If you have not tried the fork, why can you even judge it? It is ridiculous……I can tell you that it is stiff and rigid enough, so please come back after you have bought one and ridden it for a while. I have been using several Fox models and the latest fork I had, that should be one of the best in class, a Pike with 150mm travel. None of them is better than the Wren. It is plush and stiction free.
    Jayem is an expert at judging equipment he has never tried. Just ask him all about his Cane Creek Double Barrel experience.
    ****

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Thank Jehovah you're here to tell us everything we need to know about something you've never ridden.
    Doesn't take riding it to know how inverted forks work structurally and how they compare. Time will tell, but I have a feeling they'll remain in their current area, coming and going in limited/low production from small makers for niche markets because they can't afford to cast lowers. What will happen is the large manufacturers will pick up on these niches if they appear to be successful, cast lowers, and then the inverted fork manufacturer will cease to produce said fork and the cycle will repeat itself. It'll never take off because the inverted fork has too many compromises. The "keyed" stanchions/sliders are a great idea, but one could do that on a normal fork and significantly boost rigidity, it just makes the inverted somewhat viable, but more expensive/complex to manufacture, setting up the above scenario for someone to come in and under-cut them.

    Yep, I could be wrong, we could all be riding inverted forks in 5 years...(like we all changed to tapered steerers), but something tells me no, most likely not.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Doesn't take riding it to know how inverted forks work structurally and how they compare. Time will tell, but I have a feeling they'll remain in their current area, coming and going in limited/low production from small makers for niche markets because they can't afford to cast lowers. What will happen is the large manufacturers will pick up on these niches if they appear to be successful, cast lowers, and then the inverted fork manufacturer will cease to produce said fork and the cycle will repeat itself. It'll never take off because the inverted fork has too many compromises. The "keyed" stanchions/sliders are a great idea, but one could do that on a normal fork and significantly boost rigidity, it just makes the inverted somewhat viable, but more expensive/complex to manufacture, setting up the above scenario for someone to come in and under-cut them.

    Yep, I could be wrong, we could all be riding inverted forks in 5 years...(like we all changed to tapered steerers), but something tells me no, most likely not.
    And so what? We enjoy riding these really nice Wren forks, meantime you are wasting time in speculating on the development of the fork manufacturers….. I will advice you to buy a Wren fork, and to go out and ride it. What a waist to wait when you can grab a Wren and just enjoy it until other products are available.!!!!!

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    And so what? We enjoy riding these really nice Wren forks, meantime you are wasting time in speculating on the development of the fork manufacturers….. I will advice you to buy a Wren fork, and to go out and ride it. What a waist to wait when you can grab a Wren and just enjoy it until other products are available.!!!!!
    THat is not how Jayem operates. He doesn't do real testing. His strongest opinions are based on what he reads, not on what he has personally experienced with a specific product. Yes, he rode an inverted fork, how many years ago? Never rode the Wren, but in his head, the Wren must be the same. WHy bother riding it? Just like the early versions on the CCDB shocks are the same as the current ones ( don't know if he ever rode an early version anyway)so lets assume they are the same!
    Jayem, if you have not purchased it, and ridden it on your bike for more than a day, if you have not tried to actually tune it, you don't have any basis for a valid opinion, period.
    ****

  75. #175
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    lol. Try harder.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    lol. Try harder.
    Don't have to. Everyone sees it but you.
    ****

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    Don't have to. Everyone sees it but you.
    You are almost there, keep going!
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    Don't have to. Everyone sees it but you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    You are almost there, keep going!
    Here. I got you guise something.

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-setheight800-deluxe-room-bedroom.jpg

    Howell, Michigan

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Here. I got you guise something.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SetHeight800-Deluxe-Room-Bedroom.jpg 
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    I was thinking something with a canopy, soft pillows, mood lighting, thick shag, but yeah, that's pretty much it.

  80. #180
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    I love how this thread went downhill SO QUICK!

    oh and you forgot scented candles and some Chamois Butter

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I was thinking something with a canopy, soft pillows, mood lighting, thick shag, but yeah, that's pretty much it.
    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    I love how this thread went downhill SO QUICK!

    oh and you forgot scented candles and some Chamois Butter
    Well, in general, I reserve that kind of stuff for Jonshonda and my mom.
    Howell, Michigan

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Well, in general, I reserve that kind of stuff for Jonshonda and my mom.
    Chamoois butter is too sticky, I'm a Q Lube kinda guy.

    Candles are dangerous, you get all busy, the next thing you know the drapes are on fire, then you're standing outside the house with your neighbors and they're looking at you wondering why you have feathers stuck to your bare ass.

  83. #183
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    Just curious - Post-mount 160 or 180mm standard on the fork?

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    Just curious - Post-mount 160 or 180mm standard on the fork?
    160mm mount

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    160mm mount
    Thank you.

  86. #186
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    Quick update on my Wren fork situation. After talking to Russ and Kevin, they wanted my fork for analysis and had it picked up. A new fork is on the way and I am excited to unbox it, install, and if I am comfortable enough, race on it this weekend in the West Virginia Enduro Series first race of the 2016 season. After install and a test ride, I will post more info.

    Any other questions, PM me so we don't severely overload this thread.

  87. #187
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    Trust it. Good luck in the race!

  88. #188
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    So the Wren survived its first enduro. I only placed 46 out of 61, but I raced this course cold. This course provided a sample of everything that West Virginia could throw at it, including some 3+ foot rock drops that the Wren swallowed up. I got the fork on Wednesday, installed Thursday, did a ride on Friday morning to break it in and tune it. Out of the box, it was much smoother acting than the first Wren I got. Still super pleased and happy I used it this past weekend. Next race is Sunday.

  89. #189
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    Any race you finish is a good race. Glad to hear you enjoyed the new fork.

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    So I just got a screaming deal on the 110mm travel, 150mm hub version. I have not installed it just yet.. I didn't realize it doesn't have keyed stanchions but I am not sure if that will make much of a difference for me. Its going on a hardtail. I like a small jump here and there and I go over plenty of roots here in the midwest, but its nothing crazy hardcore. Think wiggle in the front wont be too bad?

    Also, as far as I can tell, the version I got does not have a separate upper and lower air chamber fill option. Is that true or am I missing something?

    It did NOT come with the carbon bash guards. Any ideas for an alternative?

  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaross View Post
    So I just got a screaming deal on the 110mm travel, 150mm hub version. I have not installed it just yet.. I didn't realize it doesn't have keyed stanchions but I am not sure if that will make much of a difference for me. Its going on a hardtail. I like a small jump here and there and I go over plenty of roots here in the midwest, but its nothing crazy hardcore. Think it will be okay?

    Also, as far as I can tell, the version I got does not have a seperate upper and lower air chamber fill option. Is that true or am I missing something?
    That sounds about right.

    Just ride it, if it has problems, Wren will take care of you.

  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    That sounds about right.

    Just ride it, if it has problems, Wren will take care of you.
    Cool, yes of course. Just want to make sure before I cut the steer tube and whatnot.. Sounds good.

    BTW, was the one that you put on your tandem the same (WSF 150-110AT)?

    I can't wait to take this thing out!

  93. #193
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    per my manual, the 110mm version has the single air chamber... ride it, I love mine.

  94. #194
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    I just got my Wren 150/150 today and noticed the manual says 180mm max rotor size. Inverted fork limitation? No biggie for me to find a 180mm rotor and bracket, but it seems at odds with the burliness of the fork. Everyone else observing this limit?

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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    I just got my Wren 150/150 today and noticed the manual says 180mm max rotor size. Inverted fork limitation? No biggie for me to find a 180mm rotor and bracket, but it seems at odds with the burliness of the fork. Everyone else observing this limit?
    I have used 200mm for several months now and no issue at all. I am weighing 250 and is doing all sorts of biking.

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaross View Post
    Cool, yes of course. Just want to make sure before I cut the steer tube and whatnot.. Sounds good.

    BTW, was the one that you put on your tandem the same (WSF 150-110AT)?

    I can't wait to take this thing out!
    On the tandem I actually have a 150mm reduced to 120mm, it was a temporary fork until the new 110mm was available. I have the 110mm coming soon, but it shoudl be the same fork as the 150, dual chambers, etc...

    If you have the first gen fork, that fork may not have dual air.

    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    I just got my Wren 150/150 today and noticed the manual says 180mm max rotor size. Inverted fork limitation? No biggie for me to find a 180mm rotor and bracket, but it seems at odds with the burliness of the fork. Everyone else observing this limit?
    There really is no need for a 200mm rotor, brake design has improved significantly in the past few years. Large rotors were mostly used in DH and tandems where heat was an issue. A larger rotor does not increase stopping power as the pad contact area is the same. A larger rotor has drawbacks such as wheel pull and rotors going out of true.

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    Apologies if this has been covered, I didn't see anything in the posts I have read. My concern with any inverted fork is that the sliders are in the danger zone when navigating rocky terrain. I know that the lowers on my standard forks are always beat to heck from scraping on rocks after a couple of months. I am afraid that trashing your sliders would cause problems. Can you protect the sliders on the wren? Is this even a valid concern?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  98. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    There really is no need for a 200mm rotor, brake design has improved significantly in the past few years. Large rotors were mostly used in DH and tandems where heat was an issue. A larger rotor does not increase stopping power as the pad contact area is the same. A larger rotor has drawbacks such as wheel pull and rotors going out of true.
    Total ridiculousness. I had to move down from 203 to 180 on my p.o.s. Bluto because it was over flexing the noodle of a fork. The decrease in stopping power of the 180 vs 203 was nothing short of significant, so much so that the first ride out on the 180 I blew through turns on a trail I know in the dark due to the diminished stopping power. My top speed on that stretch of trail is now limited directly as a result of a 180 mm rotor. It has nothing to do with pad surface area.

    Flex of the Bluto with a 203 is one of the main reasons I am considering the Wren.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Total ridiculousness. I had to move down from 203 to 180 on my p.o.s. Bluto because it was over flexing the noodle of a fork. The decrease in stopping power of the 180 vs 203 was nothing short of significant, so much so that the first ride out on the 180 I blew through turns on a trail I know in the dark due to the diminished stopping power. My top speed on that stretch of trail is now limited directly as a result of a 180 mm rotor. It has nothing to do with pad surface area.

    Flex of the Bluto with a 203 is one of the main reasons I am considering the Wren.
    Hate to disagree, but your comment brings out the engineer in me. I have used 203mm rotors extensively on everything from bikes, to unicycles, to tandems. The only benefit of a larger rotor is cooling, otherwise larger rotors increase break pull, weigh more, and are more likely to go out of true.

    Braking has everything to do with pad size because stopping a bike requires friction. If you want improved braking power, get a four piston brake with a large pad.

    I don't see why you can't use a 203mm on the Wren, I haven't tried but it seems like the only conflict would be the stanchion guard which has a cutout for the rotor. I'm sure you could trim the guard to make a 203 fit.

    I'll be honest with you, an inverted fork does tend to have problems with torsion, so rotor issues could still be a problem, though I have not had a problem with a 180 rotor.

    I can test fit a 200mm rotor and report back.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stu Pidassle View Post
    Apologies if this has been covered, I didn't see anything in the posts I have read. My concern with any inverted fork is that the sliders are in the danger zone when navigating rocky terrain. I know that the lowers on my standard forks are always beat to heck from scraping on rocks after a couple of months. I am afraid that trashing your sliders would cause problems. Can you protect the sliders on the wren? Is this even a valid concern?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    The stanchion protectors work great, I have had no issues with damage or even close calls. On normal forks I have had occasions where I crashed and the stanchion was hit, so I'm more concerned about high hit than low hits.

    The Wren is a pretty burly fork.

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Hate to disagree, but your comment brings out the engineer in me. I have used 203mm rotors extensively on everything from bikes, to unicycles, to tandems. The only benefit of a larger rotor is cooling, otherwise larger rotors increase break pull, weigh more, and are more likely to go out of true.

    Braking has everything to do with pad size because stopping a bike requires friction. If you want improved braking power, get a four piston brake with a large pad.

    I don't see why you can't use a 203mm on the Wren, I haven't tried but it seems like the only conflict would be the stanchion guard which has a cutout for the rotor. I'm sure you could trim the guard to make a 203 fit.

    I'll be honest with you, an inverted fork does tend to have problems with torsion, so rotor issues could still be a problem, though I have not had a problem with a 180 rotor.

    I can test fit a 200mm rotor and report back.



    The stanchion protectors work great, I have had no issues with damage or even close calls. On normal forks I have had occasions where I crashed and the stanchion was hit, so I'm more concerned about high hit than low hits.

    The Wren is a pretty burly fork.
    Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

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