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  1. #1
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    Wheel Question 9:zero:7

    Hi,
    I own a 2013 9:zero:7 Mcgrath build FB. The rear wheel needs work as I'm having issues with rotational windup and looking at either a rebuild at my LBS or purchasing a new set of wheels. The frame is 170mm rear QR and the front is 135mm spaced. I sent an email to Fatbikes.com and i'm waiting for a reply. In the meantime here we go.

    A few questions::
    1. Is the 135mm front a 15x135 QR or 9x135 rear brake spaced QR hub?
    2. What wheel options would be reccomended if I want to upgrade?
    3. Would Ringle Mufuts be a nicer rim vs the current Surly Holly Darryls? I
    know the Ringle's are easier to set up tubeless.

    I found a nice deal on a wheelset from Bikesmiths.com I'm considering as this may be a better investment than paying to have my original back wheel re-laced. The only downside may be the Novatec hubs.

    https://www.thebikesmiths.com/produc...0-qr-wheelset?
    utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=427532 31826&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi97NBRD1ARIsAPXVWWD9Sb7SaU3-4ImHLlGClfYotHdnkpoio1VG7Myx-VpSgS3kdDWz26YaAiDaEALw_wcB

    Any suggestions would be appreciated!

  2. #2
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    What do you mean by rotational windup? Spokes loose or hub shot?

    If your front hub is a Salsa Enabler you have 9mm rear spaced.

    If the ends of your fork are for a regular style quick release, ie. you do not have to remove the skewer to take off the wheel it is also likely a 9mm.

    If the ends of the fork are closed holes it is a 15mm through axle.

    If the end of the axle measures just under 3/8" it is 9mm. If it measures alittle under 5/8" it is 15mm.

    The Bikesmith wheelset looks nice but it is front spaced so likely no go on your bike.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    What do you mean by rotational windup? Spokes loose or hub shot?

    If your front hub is a Salsa Enabler you have 9mm rear spaced.

    If the ends of your fork are for a regular style quick release, ie. you do not have to remove the skewer to take off the wheel it is also likely a 9mm.

    If the ends of the fork are closed holes it is a 15mm through axle.

    If the end of the axle measures just under 3/8" it is 9mm. If it measures alittle under 5/8" it is 15mm.

    The Bikesmith wheelset looks nice but it is front spaced so likely no go on your bike.
    The spokes don't really seem loose but the wheel creeks under load and braking. I can rotate the rim portion of the wheel by hand with the brake locked up and see the rim movement. Talked to the LBS about re-tensioning and they felt the spokes were already stressed and re-lacing would be a better investment. It's a good shop I have been dealing with for 20+ years so I trust their advice.

    The hubs are 9:zero:7 branded and I forgot to mention the front is QR with 9mm axle ends.

    I guess the question is do I have the wheel re-laced or use this as an excuse to upgrade wheels. If so reccomendations? I'm currently running downhill mountain bike tubes on my Holy Rolling Darryls and thought it would be nice to go tubelss with Mulfut rims.

  4. #4
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    If you can move the rim around with the brakes on either your spokes are real loose, you would be able to tell, or your brake rotor or caliper is loose or your hub bearings are loose. If the spokes seem tight rebuilding the wheel with new spokes would not be my first choice. Has your LBS seen the wheel or have you just talked to them about it?
    Latitude 61

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    If you can move the rim around with the brakes on either your spokes are real loose, you would be able to tell, or your brake rotor or caliper is loose or your hub bearings are loose. If the spokes seem tight rebuilding the wheel with new spokes would not be my first choice. Has your LBS seen the wheel or have you just talked to them about it?
    The spokes seem tight and there is no side to side play, only in rotation. No the LBS hasn't seen the wheel yet, only talked to them about it. I'm concerned the holes in the rim may be elongated as part of the problem too. I may try to re-tension the wheel myself and see what happens.

  6. #6
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    There is no way I can think of that reasonably tight spokes can result in a rim that moves fore and aft under hand pressure. If your spoke holes had elongated the spokes would be loose. If spokes were loose it would move side to side as well as fore and aft. If it is only fore and aft movement it probably isn't the bearings either....
    Latitude 61

  7. #7
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    If you want to build new wheels, have a look at Bike Hub Store's fat rear hub, 907's front hub and Surly's My Other Brother Darryl for rims.
    Your fork is rear spaced. The 907 front hub is on sale for like 36 bucks.
    907's rear hubs are crap.
    Build this up with a nice double butted spoke like Sapim Race or DT Swiss Comps.
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  8. #8
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    I bet your wheels could also be tensioned up and destressed and they'd be quiet.
    I like turtles

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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I bet your wheels could also be tensioned up and destressed and they'd be quiet.
    NYrr496, I was hoping you would chime in as you are the resident expert on 9:zero:7! Thanks for the info regarding the 135mm spaced front hub style and other suggestions. I do all my own wrenching but I'm not a wheel builder,so I'm currently in the process of re-tensioning the existing wheel so I'll see how things go.

  10. #10
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    https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

    Scroll down to the bottom and read the part about tension and truing. 99% of the time, when someone brings me a wheel that creaks or wobbles, I destress and tension it. End of problem.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I bet your wheels could also be tensioned up and destressed and they'd be quiet.
    No doubt uneven tension can cause noise but it shouldn't allow the rim to rotate when the brake is held on tight, can it?
    Latitude 61

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    No doubt uneven tension can cause noise but it shouldn't allow the rim to rotate when the brake is held on tight, can it?
    Depends how crappy the build is. Maybe he's getting pad movement inside the caliper. Hard to tell exactly over the internet.

    I wish it wasn't so expensive to ship two fat wheels. I'd like to have a look at them. Buffalo's a little far from Long Island.
    I like turtles

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Depends how crappy the build is. Maybe he's getting pad movement inside the caliper. Hard to tell exactly over the internet.

    I wish it wasn't so expensive to ship two fat wheels. I'd like to have a look at them. Buffalo's a little far from Long Island.
    Nope, no movement in the pads, the rotor doesn't budge. I have been riding the wheels hard using the FB as a mountain bike for 4 years with no service on them. I spent some time re-tensioning the wheel and everything is looking better. So far I ended up with a full turn on the ND spokes and around 1/2 turn on the DS spokes so I guess they needed tension. I wasn't impressed with the original build from Fatbikes.com when I ordered the bike and the wheel looks rounder and more true than it was when delivered.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiboy View Post
    Nope, no movement in the pads, the rotor doesn't budge. I have been riding the wheels hard using the FB as a mountain bike for 4 years with no service on them. I spent some time re-tensioning the wheel and everything is looking better. So far I ended up with a full turn on the ND spokes and around 1/2 turn on the DS spokes so I guess they needed tension. I wasn't impressed with the original build from Fatbikes.com when I ordered the bike and the wheel looks rounder and more true than it was when delivered.
    Nice.
    I like turtles

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