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  1. #1
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    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
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    Weght weenies and spend thrifts unite - help me design a budget fatty

    I am not normally a weight weenie, I prefer durability over weight on my bike builds to date. I am starting to pull together parts for a new fat bike that will be focused on lowest possible weight at the lowest possible price point. I'm looking for any and all "hacks" to make this possible. I am a good mechanic and don't mind messing around to make things work, as long as they REALLY work.

    I don't see a need for anything bigger than 4" tires, BUT I think I will want to use a 190 frame just in case my opinion changes down the road. 4" seem to be about perfect around here and I use it probably more on dirt than snow (open to opinion on that). Will a 190 frame make things more expensive? I guess its only hubs.

    Frame: probably going with a Ti or carbon China direct frame
    Fork: one of the carbon forks out there (plenty to choose from)
    Handlebar, stem, seatpost: China direct stuff
    Crankset: SRAM with a spiderless 30T ring
    Brakes: ???? I have a set of BB7s in the bin, seems like I could do better
    Cassette: 11-36 SRAM
    Rear derailleur and shifter: probably XT or SLX (its what I have on other bikes and I like to keep my parts bin simple)
    Wheels: again hoping for a China direct rim option, but I see the HED and other options out there now, this alone will bust the bank! Not sure on "acceptable" hubs - but probably go down the Hope road if I can't find anything better/cheaper. I think you can go really cheap on a front hub, not so on the rear hub.

    Constructive comments welcomed!
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  2. #2
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    What is the actual weight and money spent goal? It will be hard to offer suggestions without a definitive budget.

  3. #3
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    Until I see final pricing for the China direct stuff its hard to say on the budget. I really want to keep it around $2,500 if I can. I don't know if that's remotely possible until I see prices for those frames and rims. I really want to hit 28lbs.

    I accidentally put a seatpost in that build, I'll be putting a Specialized dropper on it (I know that's not remotely weight weenie, but its a requirement)
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  4. #4
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    Unless you really like projects, it might just be easier to buy one complete... Trek Farley isn't too far from what you are looking for, neither is the fatboy...

  5. #5
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    hmm, interesting thought. I'm in no rush, like to have it together by the end of summer (or so), maybe a Fatboy is the right way to go.

    (I do like projects though!)
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  6. #6
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    Wouldn't the best way to start be with carbon rims and not be too fussy with the frame?
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  7. #7
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    That's the kind of feedback I'm looking for, thanks. I looked at frame weights of what's out there today - Ti frames are coming in around 3.77lbs, Al around 4lbs and carbon is around 2.8lbs. So if I could get a carbon frame reasonably I save a pound right there over Ti and 1.2 pounds over Al. Not huge, but not insignificant either.
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  8. #8
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    This
    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    Wouldn't the best way to start be with carbon rims and not be too fussy with the frame?

    I currently ride a 2012/13 907. It is a 170 spacing but weighs in at 30# (size Large 2*10 drivetrain) The bike has nothing to fancy on it, carbon bar, carbon seatpost, Carbon fork (Whyte Bros Snow pack) , x9 drivetrain, HRD, studless dillingers, X0 brakes.

    A 28# bike should be easily achievable with most 190 frames and carbon wheelset.
    Would rather be out riding!

    It's not just about a bike

  9. #9
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    I've got a Ti Fatback with carbon cockpit and fork... 90mm rims Hope hubs, Sram XX 1x10... With Bud/Lou tires it's 27.7 lbs so you can easily achieve 28lbs. I had my first generation Salsa Mukluk down to 25 and change with nothing special parts wise.

  10. #10
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    Weght weenies and spend thrifts unite - help me design a budget fatty-image.jpgCarver just posed this teaser to facebook of some upcoming "rolling darryl clones" at $50 a pop and some time with your power drill, you'll have some reasonably light inexpensive hoops.
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  11. #11
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    Excellent info and ideas, thanks!

    I wonder if/hope we're getting to the point with fat bike stuff where it won't be more expensive just because its fat.

    I was talking to the tech at the LBS the other day he had a Kona Wo on the floor we were talking about the spec on the bike - he said "that's a $500 spec and its $1,700" (though on sale for $1,399). I hope we get to the point where a $2,000 rigid bike with fat tires is a really nice bike.
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  12. #12
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    I think it is hard to achieve even with a aluminum or Ti frame. My 18" 2x10 rolling darryl pugsley weighs under 29lbs but with tons of carbon components.

  13. #13
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    I saw a 28.5 pound medium 907 with Clownshoes, Bud and Lou.
    It had a Raceface single crank, Thomson stem and post... Not real exotic.
    It felt way lighter than it looked.
    Here it is.

    https://www.facebook.com/11133849233...type=1&theater
    I like turtles

  14. #14
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    I would choose your frame more on geometry and "feel" (material) rather then lightness. Frame weight matters little in the grand scheme of things. But if you go inexpensive and Ti, i'd recommend Carver. They have a lot of options and their Customs are inexpensive too compared to others.

  15. #15
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
    Reputation: scrublover's Avatar
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    John-

    The Fatty now hits right on 30# though 29# with a regular post, not dropper. One of those carbon frames would have me at 28, easy!

    Lots of this will be obvious, but anyhow:

    Whatever carbon frame hits the fit/geometry/price-point nexus for you.
    Ditto on the carbon fork

    Hope rear hub (really decent weights and performance combo that doesn't break the bank)
    whatever front hub - both laced to the lightest rim you can pony up for. Do some butted spokes up front, alu nipples. Tubeless in lightest way you can. I'm digging the Floater rear/Bud front combo - not the lightest stuff, but seems to work well on dirt AND snow stuff at this point. Bolt-on front skewer setup.

    Do a 160F/140R rotor setup - I'm finding with the amount of traction available, larger rotors are complete overkill. Not a lot of weight savings, but every little bit, right? I'm fond of my Avid XX brakes (four bikes) but I know some folks don't cotton on to Avid brakes. They can be found for some cheap deals on e-bay if patient.

    OTOH, if you've got Shimano on the other bikes, stick with it -keeps the spare parts and pads required to a minimum. Same with your Shifting bits - and pick up one of the little things to clamp your rear brake/shifter together, unless it won't give you the angles you like. Lighter, looks sano.

    The X.9 crank with the direct mount ring isn't the lightest thing out there, but it works very well, and gives you lots of options for rings. That new Race Face would be sweet, but it's $$$$$!

    Bolt on seat collar. E-bay special supah/ light ti railed butt-floss saddle. ESI silicone grips.

    Bar/stem: Race Face's SixC DH bar, IMO, is tits! Light, wide, tough. Worth the dough.
    Truvativ Stylo line of stems: one of theirs that comes with some nice ti bolts can be found fairly cheaply on-line a few places, and e-bay. Maybe not as overall light as some of the China direct carbon stuff, but the back of my head trusts it a bit more.

    If you really want to geek out on it, ti and alu bolts here and there...
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  16. #16
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    Love it.

    I was on a ride with guys with Nates and I think that is a better snow tire than the Floater - of course twice the price, so I'll probably just stick with the Floaters for now. We will see.

    Any yes, geometry is key, I'm looking for a mountain bike here, not a beach cruiser. That said, with a rigid bike, its pretty easy to see what its going to ride like based on the geometry - which is not the case for a FS or even a HT bike.

    Thanks for the continued input. I have a spreadsheet I started with pieces and weights, but its pretty incomplete right now, as I get more data I'll share what I've found.
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  17. #17
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    Try come composite pedals. I have the Fyxation slim pedals and they are pretty light weight for the price. They work great with my 5.10 freeride shoes, terrible with my boots.

  18. #18
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    The dark path:

    torontocycles.com

    fairwheelbikes.com
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  19. #19
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    Weght weenies and spend thrifts unite - help me design a budget fatty

    The HED wheels will blow your budget. However 28lbs is very easy if you pick the right bike. I currently ride a Trek Farley and love the Geometry especially in the snow. Even with my 4.0 tires I'm riding in deep snow just as well as the boys and girls riding the big 4.8 tires.

    My thoughts are buy the frame that rides well for your type of riding style not just based on weight. Because you may end up not liking the bike you built


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    Dakar 650b Pro Full Squish & Trek Farley Fat Bike

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beard of Power View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	867215Carver just posed this teaser to facebook of some upcoming "rolling darryl clones" at $50 a pop and some time with your power drill, you'll have some reasonably light inexpensive hoops.
    Thx. Any word on tubeless compatability?
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  21. #21
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    I have Hadley, Chris King, and some Hope rear hubs on my other bikes. Just ordered the newly available 40T fatsno hub, which I'm guessing will become a popular choice this year. Light, all axle sizes, and $210.

    The home drilled Darryl's are near the weight of most carbon 80 mm rims....

    Plenty of brake options that are lighter than bb7s. I've never had cold weather issues with DOT 4, but mineral oil Shimano I'm not sure about.
    Originally posted by bucksaw87
    I still fail to see how mustaches, fixies, and PBR are ironic.

  22. #22
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    I've got mineral oil based Shimano brakes on my current fat bike and had no problems (other than howling - when I have the issue so does everyone else on the ride). It doesn't get that cold here though - a 10F ride would be a cold ride for me.

    I really think I'm waiting on a Chinese CF frame. Assuming I can verify the quality, that seems to be the right combination of price and weight.

    Right now wheels are my biggest concern - both price and weight. I'll have figure out the drilled Darryls weight, and there will be Chinese CF rims as well - though the initial pricing I've seen doesn't look very attractive.
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  23. #23
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    We have found the Rolling D's can be taken down to about 720g with a router and still maintain there integrity at least for a not really big dude. Some have gone lighter but....YMMV.
    And I love beer!!

  24. #24
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    Decision time. I called around today and found a shop getting a Specialized Fatboy in my size. So for $2,500 I get a bike that I can get down to about 30lbs pretty easily. I think going the China carbon route I would be about that price, though I think I could end up a few pounds lighter. Of course its a quick turn around thing to reserve this bike.
    Big Strings, Big Wheels, The Jisch Blog

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    Thx. Any word on tubeless compatability?
    They are pinned, not welded, probably not the best candidates for a tubeless set up, but nothing some silicone calk + gorilla tape + split-tube couldn't fix.
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