If you find a eyelet-less rim with a welded joint, you can have them re-anodized... ask Surly to see whether the Marge Lite is bonded or welded.
P.S. How can you not have wheels ready yet?!
Ha! Look what the cat dragged in. You looking for a fatty now too?
I haven't built the wheels yet because I wasn't sure which direction I'd go with the fork (Enabler, White Bros, Lefty, etc.) Unfortunately, they're all incompatible with each other's hubs, so I held off building until I decided. I'll run the Lefty, but I'm also looking at rigid options.
Regarding re-anodizing, can you go from a darker color (black) to a lighter color?
Wadester- MendonCycleSmith and I had a phone discussion over Lefty wheel options, and your name came up. I've been looking at your old threads, and frankly, your wheel lacing looks intimidating. I've built maybe 50 wheels, but it has always been 3x with no fanciness whatsoever. Those rims look solid and...heavy. I'm looking to go as light as I can, and drilled-out single wall rims look to be the way to go.
this forum is killing me. Between building Ricky's bike (which is amazing fun) and looking through Mike C's thread I'm having a bit of an internal struggle right now as to whether or not I should slot myself into the next available build opening.
Big thanks to Ricky for giving me the opportunity and to Mike for setting the bar so high.
this forum is killing me. Between building Ricky's bike (which is amazing fun) and looking through Mike C's thread I'm having a bit of an internal struggle right now as to whether or not I should slot myself into the next available build opening.
Big thanks to Ricky for giving me the opportunity and to Mike for setting the bar so high.
What, no NAHBS? I'm sure you're busy and the show is costly, but this bike...
What, no NAHBS? I'm sure you're busy and the show is costly, but this bike...
No NAHBS this year. The cost of NAHBS is worth the exposure potential without a doubt, but it interfered with some family planning. I need this time to focus on preparing for rugrat #2 rather than fretting about a display, crating, t-shirts and all the associated hoopla.
Besides, Ricky doesn't even have wheels yet...sheesh.
this forum is killing me. Between building Ricky's bike (which is amazing fun) and looking through Mike C's thread I'm having a bit of an internal struggle right now as to whether or not I should slot myself into the next available build opening.
Big thanks to Ricky for giving me the opportunity and to Mike for setting the bar so high.
Sean, you have to build one for yourself.
mtbtires.com
The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common
Is Speedway the only ones making decent fat rims in SILVER? I need one offset drilled rim so that I can build a Lefty fat wheel. Already called Speedway and they don't have any offset drilled silver rims in stock.
The other option is to find a rim that already has the offset row of spoke holes and repaint it. So, has anyone stripped or repainted the Large Marge Lite? If so, how'd it turn out?
A few people have suggested that I could drill new spoke holes in a silver Speedway rim, and I'm considering it if I can't source what I'm looking for. Just seems a little scary to do to a brand new $150+ part
Please lemme know if you have any other ideas or leads. Thanks!
Redrilling singlewall rims is a piece o' cake.
If I were you I'd find your preferred rim based on it's specs and build history (and I know this guy who knows a bit about these things...) and then have it stripped and polished.
So, not being terribly familiar with Vertigo, you'll forgive the question....
Ti, or stainless? The welds look steelish, hence the question.
Lookin' sweet, LOVE the build kit
Craig,
That's a photo of a fusion weld, where the two tubes are simply melted together with no filler. That's why it looks so tiny. If one were to try to get the full weld width in this manner, the mitered tube would tear open. The fusion ensures full weld penetration and is followed by another pass to add the filler and bring the joint up to strength.
That's a photo of a fusion weld, where the two tubes are simply melted together with no filler. That's why it looks so tiny. If one were to try to get the full weld width in this manner, the mitered tube would tear open. The fusion ensures full weld penetration and is followed by another pass to add the filler and bring the joint up to strength.
This is interesting;
Laying down a contiguous "bed" for the actual weld to nest/fuse into. Very interesting. I had never considered this, but it makes perfect sense! As he suggests, even with exceptional miters (which are mandatory for this), you are stealing material from both tubes to create this fusion, and necessarily thinning them at a critical juncture. You can do this with some materials and in certain applications and get away with a fusion weld alone (I do it on stainless intercooler/intake hard pipes), but not in this case. It also occurs to me that this fusion step makes it much easier to get visually stunning (and structurally solid) final welds when it is time to add the filler.
Thanks for letting that little trick slip out!
Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
- John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker