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  1. #101
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    Ahhh.... another happy fatbiker with a tubeless fail.

    Its a friggin pain-in-the-a$$ going tubeless on fat wheels, worth it once you get it right but hurry up Stans tubeless fat rims I say !!!
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  2. #102
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    Ahhh.... another happy fatbiker with a tubeless fail.

    Its a friggin pain-in-the-a$$ going tubeless on fat wheels, worth it once you get it right but hurry up Stans tubeless fat rims I say !!!
    Oh come on ozzy. Most of the fails are people who aren't doing what works. They are trying to skimp and then it doesn't work and it goes down in the books as a fail.

  3. #103
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    It took me about 5 goes.... 5 times i had to put the tubes back in to go for a ride.

    Its alright for us now as we know what works, but for a noob to tubeless fat rims it can easily take a few attempts. I thought i was a tubeless guru of MTB wheels (tubeless on all bikes since 2008) people used to give me bizarre rim & tyre combos to make tubeless as they had failed but the fat rims still stumped me.... also the time consumed with the failed attempts was massive.
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  4. #104
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    Plug those jigging holes...

    ...if your rim has them. Don't count on the tape to do the job; if the tape creeps just a little bit you'll have a helluva leak!

    RE filler for same; I've used hot-melt glue, RTV silicone, 5-min 'poxy and JB Weld. All work just fine; even went to the trouble of using microballoon once but what's a couple of grams saved on a fatbike?

    I'd even use matchsticks and Gorilla Glue if they were handy (might just try that the next time).

    Just did another Large Marge ghetto-style (Gorilla tape) but somebody had absconded with my full roll of wide Gorilla tape so I used one wrap of 1" wide Gorilla over the nipple holes and taped the rest with electrical tape; worked just fine. The type of tape used doesn't seem to be all that critical as long as it's airtight, moisture-resistant and has a good quality adhesive.

    The main key for ghetto nirvana is to be sure the tire has been pre-shaped either by running it on a rim with a tube or just letting a tube expand it while off the rim (an afternoon in the backseat of a car parked out in the sun will speed this along)

    Also over-filling with whatever kind of sealant you're using helps; the excess can be sucked out later.
    The views and opinions expressed here are those of the author and do not represent any policy of the CA Dept. of Parks & Rec.

  5. #105
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    I have Holy Rolling D's and Husker Du's front and rear. Last spring, I had some time when I wouldn't be riding, so I went for it. I used the folded foam in the middle and gorilla tape on my first one and the damn thing sealed right up- first try! I didn't get the gorilla tape into the bead sockets either. Sweet! I went for my front wheel and have tried damn near every version on here- foam, no foam, gorilla tape in the bead sockets, not in the bead sockets, stans tape in the bead sockets, gorilla tape across the middle, door sealing foam (the tubular foam strips) with gorilla tape, tying a belt around it, tube in with seated beads for a few days, and probably a few other combinations and nothing would do the trick. I've had a tube in it ever since. I plan on going at it again in the next few weeks, but it's nothing as easy as the myriad of rim/tire/ghetto/26/29/700c setups I've done on "skinny" rims. I've not resorted to using the aerosol can method mostly because I want to be able to duplicate the process and not rely on that "extreme" method.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  6. #106
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    I guess I didn't have any issues. I looked at the different methods being used and decided how I wanted to approach it. I have played with some different tapes and foam and have what I am comfortable with. It seems that those who don't want to use foam struggle more than those who do. Some of the struggles I have read about recently are caused by: not plugging the holes in the rim, using just the rim strip with no tape, no sealant, and experimenting with various tapes.

  7. #107
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    Fatbike Tubeless - YouTube

    1. Anyone see something wrong with this method?
    2. Any idea what MM rims these are?

    I'm considering doing this on my 80mm RD's.
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  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armyballer View Post
    Fatbike Tubeless - YouTube

    1. Anyone see something wrong with this method?
    2. Any idea what MM rims these are?

    I'm considering doing this on my 80mm RD's.
    I believe they are 70mm rims he is using and I have no idea why he is going through all that work on a tubeless ready rim. All that is needed for that rim is one wrap of tape and blow the silly thing up.. As far as the method, there are people using all different variations of basically the same thing.
    And I love beer!!

  9. #109
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armyballer View Post
    Fatbike Tubeless - YouTube

    1. Anyone see something wrong with this method?
    2. Any idea what MM rims these are?

    I'm considering doing this on my 80mm RD's.
    It's a method that works but a few comments. First, instead of using soap and water to seat the tire I like to use some Stans (sealant) which helps once the tire is seated to seal the bead of the tire. Second, I like putting the Stans (sealant) directly into the tire before inflating the tire. Third, pumping the tire up with pressure on the bottom of the tire can deform the tire slightly making it a little harder for the air to fill the tire.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I have Holy Rolling D's and Husker Du's front and rear. Last spring, I had some time when I wouldn't be riding, so I went for it. I used the folded foam in the middle and gorilla tape on my first one and the damn thing sealed right up- first try! I didn't get the gorilla tape into the bead sockets either. Sweet! I went for my front wheel and have tried damn near every version on here- foam, no foam, gorilla tape in the bead sockets, not in the bead sockets, stans tape in the bead sockets, gorilla tape across the middle, door sealing foam (the tubular foam strips) with gorilla tape, tying a belt around it, tube in with seated beads for a few days, and probably a few other combinations and nothing would do the trick. I've had a tube in it ever since. I plan on going at it again in the next few weeks, but it's nothing as easy as the myriad of rim/tire/ghetto/26/29/700c setups I've done on "skinny" rims. I've not resorted to using the aerosol can method mostly because I want to be able to duplicate the process and not rely on that "extreme" method.
    Hudus are loosey goosey after a decent amount of use so it's not going to air up easy, adding foam is good but it also decreases the surface area where the tape attaches to the rim (too little and pressure pops it off causing endless cutout/spokehole leaks etc.) I have an ongoing battle with my rear wheel ;-)
    Would rather air mine up with a floor pump but that means you generally have to use foam (amount of foam required can change as tires change/age).
    I grab the kitchen blow torch and can of butane and roast any tire giving me grief, it's easy if you seat one side with a tube then remove tube add valve then blow that ****er up!

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    Oh come on ozzy. Most of the fails are people who aren't doing what works. They are trying to skimp and then it doesn't work and it goes down in the books as a fail.
    Doing what everyone else does... does nothing for innovation. Tyvek tape should work and it should be superior to all the other tapes out there. I am doing something wrong, just not sure what it is. It probably comes down to a poor taping job.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I believe they are 70mm rims he is using and I have no idea why he is going through all that work on a tubeless ready rim. All that is needed for that rim is one wrap of tape and blow the silly thing up.. As far as the method, there are people using all different variations of basically the same thing.
    So with mine being 80mm....I doubt the tube he uses will work on mine. Yea I know this isn't the lightest method out there but I like the idea of it much better then using all 3m tape. I could care less if my fatbike weights 30pds or 40pds.
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  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by DubzOxford View Post
    Does this method work for folding bead tires or only wire bead?
    I know this is an old post, but just re-reading the thread.

    I've used folding larry & endo, and both folding & wire 45 nrth hudu's all with success. The wire-bead huhu did require sitting on a rim with a tube for over a week to get the bead straight. It pops on nicely now though.
    Riding.....

  14. #114
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    All this talk about tape method failures is making my ears bleed. I've used tape on my old MTB wheels and it works great but for the Fatties, I'm sold on the split tube method. I've set up two bikes with split tube and the absolute longest it took me to do a tire was 20mins. That was on a Rolling Darryl. The Marge Lites aired up in a heartbeat.
    I've also unmounted/remounted the tires with the split tubes and had no issues getting them to air-up.

    I pre-fill the tire with Stans, then take the valve core out and use a compressor to push in a constant air stream. Generous brushing of the tire and split tube with a soapy water rag helps make the seal and allows the tire to slide to the bead socket quickly. Once it's holding some air, pop in the valve core and use a hand pump to take it from a couple PSI to about 25PSI and watch as the tire moves into the bead socket with a satisfying "POP". A strap around the tire really helped with the wider Rolling Darryls. After set-up, I take a scissors and slice off the excess tube to within 3/16 of the rim for a nice look.

    No worries about making sure all the holes are filled or loosing a bunch of stans into them as they seal up. In fact, the tire-bead to split-tube interface is so tight, I've seen little, if any, stans come through and am confident it will be there ready to seal up holes caused by thorns in my area.

    I've used this on HuDu's and Escalators (folding).

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizzard75 View Post
    Doing what everyone else does... does nothing for innovation. Tyvek tape should work and it should be superior to all the other tapes out there. I am doing something wrong, just not sure what it is. It probably comes down to a poor taping job.
    I think that the low coefficient of friction for Tyvek might be a problem. I also think that the best tubeless solutions for fat bikes only exist on the internet.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  16. #116
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizzard75 View Post
    Doing what everyone else does... does nothing for innovation. Tyvek tape should work and it should be superior to all the other tapes out there. I am doing something wrong, just not sure what it is. It probably comes down to a poor taping job.
    Gizzard, I agree with you on trying new stuff. I haven't tried Tyvek tape. I have tried a few other, what I will call slick tapes, and I haven't liked the way they look after being in the tire for a while with sealant. They don't seem to stay sealed where it overlaps very well.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    Gizzard, I agree with you on trying new stuff. I haven't tried Tyvek tape. I have tried a few other, what I will call slick tapes, and I haven't liked the way they look after being in the tire for a while with sealant. They don't seem to stay sealed where it overlaps very well.
    The overlap near the rim edge is the exact spot that I had the most leaking. I dont think that Tyvek would be a robust enough tape after working with it the past few nights- I like the idea of it though!

    After doing more research I think the best solution for me is going to be a split tube set up. Once again thanks for everyone's input!

  18. #118
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizzard75 View Post
    Dont think the tyvek tape is the right stuff for the job. Got home wrapped it all around the outside of the rim and aired it up- getting better at the bead snapping- soaped it up and it was leaking in one spot on the bead and in just about every rim hole- too much. I pulled it all off - tyvek tape sucks to remove btw, tears very easily.

    Split tube or Gorilla tape?? Pro's and Con's... I assume that the gorilla tape is lighter and the split tube is easier- which method is more robust?

    I have the tubeless valves so really I am going to go with gorilla tape- although I would prefer schrader valves over prestra... blah going gorilla- thanks again for all your help!

    After reading the thread better I think 8898 tape instead of gorilla- for now though I am going to put the tube back in so I can freakin ride my bike!
    Gizzard, did you try the Gorilla tape? I have tires with Gorilla tape that have lasted for a long time with no deterioration of the tape. I know it's not the lightest but it works well for me. I run the tape well past the outside of the rim while pulling it VERY tight (step on the bottom of rim as you pull the tape). I push the tape down into the bead area with something smooth and then trim the tape along the outside of the rim.

    I agree with you on the schrader valves instead of presta. They are sturdier and easier to work with. The motorcycle shop in town sells the BikeMaster brand of chrome tubeless stems and they have worked well.

    I do use foam as well which I think helps with tire staying seated and airing up.

    My Clownshoes look like this before tape.


    My choice of tape to be seen from the outside. Also, I drilled a lot of extra holes.


    Extra Firm self-sticking foam. I trim it a little after applying it.

  19. #119
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    I haven't decided to go any route just yet; I patched the original tube and threw it back in so I could enjoy some gravel in this fine Indian Summer!- I have some house work to do this weekend so I might have to run to the home improvement store and get supplies... I already have tubeless valves so it makes sense to go the tape route. I thought I read somewhere that foam wasnt needed with clownshoes but if it makes it easier then I am all for it. I guess my main objective is avoiding flats not so much saving weight (not that 10-20 grams of foam is what will be holding me back on a climb!)

  20. #120
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Gizzard, you couldn't drag me back to using tubes. The foam works although it can be tough getting the tire up on it for the first time. I use the Ace brand Super Firm Sponge Tape, 3/8" (T) x 3/4" (W). My setup isn't the lightest but I do put a lot of miles on my bike without issues.

  21. #121
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    Good job on those rims Alphazz... a bit of time has went into that drilling. I like it !
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  22. #122
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Thanks ozzy. Yeah, my son was giving me a hard time about spending too much time drilling, cutting, and grinding on that rim. I think it looks good from the outside.


  23. #123
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    As long as mum didn't hear him.... you don't want two of them joining forces and having a whinge

    Turned out well.... weight saved too ?
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  24. #124
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    ozzy, I wish I could say I cut a pound out of rim, but I can't. Close to 6 oz. though.

  25. #125
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    Going to give this a try as a double puncture yesterday annoyed me greatly, and I was in the house fixing it!!

    Has anyone in the uk found the 3M 8898 tape anywhere else than Ozzy's link to Farnells?? They have a minimum order limit

    I am also tempted by American Classic valve stems to match my Red & Black theme on the bike!!

    TUBELESS|VALVES
    Last edited by Flying_Scotsman; 10-05-2013 at 06:05 AM.

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