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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Way2ManyBikes View Post
    Has anyone tried the new gorilla tape clear repair yet ?




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    I used it after drilling my rims. I use a red duct tape over the holes and then a layer of clear on both side. It is a little stretchy so no wrinkles. Set one side with a tube and then the other side with a compressor. Worked on both front and back. Added some Stans though the valve. Has worked on about 10 rides since then with only a soft tire on the first ride. Which I was able to pump up with a hand pump.

  2. #402
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    Holy Rolling Darryls
    Knard tires 120tpi folding
    Clownshoe 75mm rim tape
    150ml (3 small bottles full) Stans for each rim
    A tube to mount tyre beads
    Stans valves

    Fit rim tape
    Mount tire with a tube, I leave overnight to shape the tire at 30psi
    Deflate tire and unseat one bead of tire, remove the tube.
    Fit the Stans valve without the valve core (to improve air flow speed)
    Use a compressor to inflate the tire (i do this with the wheel laying on the ground with the seated bead up so gravity wants to pull the other bead down (a little bit of water on the bead to make the rubber slip might help also)
    Tire should inflate and snap into place, I inflate to 30 psi, then let the tire deflate, add the Stans fluid through the open valve, refit the valve core and pump up the tire to 10 or 12 psi and bounce it around the garage to splash the Stans about inside.
    Some liquid will leak, don't worry just top the air up again, go ride, maybe add some more air if it drops again. Then forget about it as it'll be fine once the Stands has sealed any gaps.

    I've had 100% success with this method.

  3. #403
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    My first post so try to hold back!

    I am considering this method for Holy Rolling Darryls and 45N Dillinger 26 x 4.0", 120tpi Folding tires.

    To make sure I have it right just use a CS rim strip and no tape or second strip?

    Sounds too easy.


    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Duggan View Post
    Holy Rolling Darryls
    Knard tires 120tpi folding
    Clownshoe 75mm rim tape
    150ml (3 small bottles full) Stans for each rim
    A tube to mount tyre beads
    Stans valves

    Fit rim tape
    Mount tire with a tube, I leave overnight to shape the tire at 30psi
    Deflate tire and unseat one bead of tire, remove the tube.
    Fit the Stans valve without the valve core (to improve air flow speed)
    Use a compressor to inflate the tire (i do this with the wheel laying on the ground with the seated bead up so gravity wants to pull the other bead down (a little bit of water on the bead to make the rubber slip might help also)
    Tire should inflate and snap into place, I inflate to 30 psi, then let the tire deflate, add the Stans fluid through the open valve, refit the valve core and pump up the tire to 10 or 12 psi and bounce it around the garage to splash the Stans about inside.
    Some liquid will leak, don't worry just top the air up again, go ride, maybe add some more air if it drops again. Then forget about it as it'll be fine once the Stands has sealed any gaps.

    I've had 100% success with this method.

  4. #404
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    I would highly recommend not trying to just use the Surly rim strip. It might work but it is likely to fail at a moment you'd rather it didn't.

  5. #405
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    There is a good thread on using the Clownshoe strip on Marge Lites:

    Installed the strip an I am amazed on how perfectly the strip fits into the rim. You'd swear it was made for it. One strip of regular duct tape, tube and 25-30 psi and it looked great, no over bulging out the holes. Going to leave it them around 20 psi until I do the conversion, but it seems pretty fool-proof so far. Looks like the way to go with Marge Lite
    rims.

    I would prefer to stay away from duct tape if possible.

  6. #406
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    So I had a bunch of spoke nips break on my wheels (not cuz of tubeless) and needed some new tubes for the split method. lbs didn't have the q-tubes, but another bike shop had Specialized tubes.

    The Presta valve components on the Spesh are in every way superior to the Q-tubes. Much more stout, my pump latches on to the valve much better. Overall I feel like it is a Kia vs. MB quality. Only thing that sucks is no removable valve core.

    Not a Speshy leg humper (although I do love my 92 Stumpy), but would rec there tubes to anyone.

  7. #407
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    I have non-removable cores on my bike, it sucks to have to break a bead to add Stans. I use split tube and I can't cut them flush in one spot so I can break the bead and reset it to add Stans.

  8. #408
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    Any updates on how your wheels are holding up?


    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Duggan View Post
    Holy Rolling Darryls
    Knard tires 120tpi folding
    Clownshoe 75mm rim tape
    150ml (3 small bottles full) Stans for each rim
    A tube to mount tyre beads
    Stans valves

    Fit rim tape
    Mount tire with a tube, I leave overnight to shape the tire at 30psi
    Deflate tire and unseat one bead of tire, remove the tube.
    Fit the Stans valve without the valve core (to improve air flow speed)
    Use a compressor to inflate the tire (i do this with the wheel laying on the ground with the seated bead up so gravity wants to pull the other bead down (a little bit of water on the bead to make the rubber slip might help also)
    Tire should inflate and snap into place, I inflate to 30 psi, then let the tire deflate, add the Stans fluid through the open valve, refit the valve core and pump up the tire to 10 or 12 psi and bounce it around the garage to splash the Stans about inside.
    Some liquid will leak, don't worry just top the air up again, go ride, maybe add some more air if it drops again. Then forget about it as it'll be fine once the Stands has sealed any gaps.

    I've had 100% success with this method.

  9. #409
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    Sorry slow reply.. they're still rolling fine, not needed air since halfway through the first ride when they fizzed a little stans still. I'm riding 10+ hours a week on them and couldn't be happier.

  10. #410
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    Thanks for the update. Also saw this video:

    I am pretty much ready to make the conversion!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Duggan View Post
    Sorry slow reply.. they're still rolling fine, not needed air since halfway through the first ride when they fizzed a little stans still. I'm riding 10+ hours a week on them and couldn't be happier.

  11. #411
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    Hi,have you actually seen this method fail or is it just a guess? as I've been blasting around on it since early November 13 (nearly 4 months) and put in many hours in the New Zealand summer with zero issues and that includes leaving the bike in a locked car where the tyres would experience some serious heating and it's not failed yet.Sean
    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    I would highly recommend not trying to just use the Surly rim strip. It might work but it is likely to fail at a moment you'd rather it didn't.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Duggan View Post
    Hi,have you actually seen this method fail or is it just a guess? as I've been blasting around on it since early November 13 (nearly 4 months) and put in many hours in the New Zealand summer with zero issues and that includes leaving the bike in a locked car where the tyres would experience some serious heating and it's not failed yet.Sean
    I have but not in heat. I don't know if it makes a difference.

  13. #413
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    Anyone know of when Stan's is going to release the wide tape to the masses? Speedway Cycles is out.

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
    Anyone know of when Stan's is going to release the wide tape to the masses? Speedway Cycles is out.
    Prob at the same time they release their wide rim to the masses. Should be soon.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Prob at the same time they release their wide rim to the masses. Should be soon.
    I hope they release that 50mm-ish rim as well, one that was captured in a spy shot or trade show or something. I like those for summer, most of the stuff I ride is kinda but not super sandy, so I like to ride sorta-fat and reduce some self-steer up front.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  16. #416
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    Needed some extra traction in the snow as the HuDu's weren't getting it on the local climbs.
    Set up Nate on Rolling Darryl last night and it was the most trouble I've had with Ghetto Tubeless.
    First tried to just air it up with a compressor but the tire was too heavy and loose on the rim.
    Then tried to run a strap around it to try to press the beads out. Still no go.
    Lastly, folded back one side of the ghetto-strip, put in a regular tube, and seated the ghetto-side. Pulled the tube, repositioned the ghetto-strip and BINGO! Tubeless Bliss again.
    Still took less than an hour to complete it but was more trouble than the HuDu's and Escalators i've been running.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
    Anyone know of when Stan's is going to release the wide tape to the masses? Speedway Cycles is out.
    3M Scotch 8898 Packaging Tape | 42302 | RS Hughes Industrial Supply

    If you can navigate the site, there is 72mm wide available too.
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  18. #418
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    Thanks ozzybmx !! now I can buy a couple of roll's without having to buy whole cases !

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjdog800 View Post
    Lastly, folded back one side of the ghetto-strip, put in a regular tube, and seated the ghetto-side. Pulled the tube, repositioned the ghetto-strip and BINGO! Tubeless Bliss again.
    Still took less than an hour to complete it but was more trouble than the HuDu's and Escalators i've been running.
    Get one bead set and you are 90% there, set the wheel on a bucket so the weight of the tyre is hanging down on the unset bead... set bead facing upwards, give it a soap and it should go.

    Helps if you have a high volume compressor (with tank) to give it that initial blast.
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  20. #420
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    Good! My Beargrease shipped today.


    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Prob at the same time they release their wide rim to the masses. Should be soon.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    Get one bead set and you are 90% there, set the wheel on a bucket so the weight of the tyre is hanging down on the unset bead... set bead facing upwards, give it a soap and it should go.

    Helps if you have a high volume compressor (with tank) to give it that initial blast.
    I didn't mention the bucket and did it exactly that way... Worked perfect!

  22. #422
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    Burping Nate when climbing

    Thanks for all the info in here. After reading this entire thread a second time I took the plunge this weekend.

    Front wheel, two rides no leaks. Surly rim strip + 4 strips of overlapping 48mm 3M Blue tape, no foam. Tape came out kind of crinkly but all the edges sealed well.

    Rear wheel one ride constant burping when climbing steeper snowmobile trails. Surly rim strip + foam + 4 strips of overlapping 48mm 3M Blue tape. All the tape is smooth and has held 20 psi overnight before and after the ride.

    Tires are mounted on Holy Rolling Darryls

    Also, both tires got 4 scoops of Stan's sealant.

    I started the ride out with 7psi but I think the torque on the tire is breaking the bead seal. The tire did not slip and the beads were still seated even after riding it about a mile completely flat (too tired to keep pumping it up at the end).

    Anyone experience this with Nates? Any suggestions?

    Thanks

  23. #423
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    My #1 suggestion against burps is build up the Bead Seat Diameter of the rim, so the fit between the tire and rim will be tighter.

    Did the tire require a bit of pressure and lubrication to seat?
    Did it "plop" with a snappy sound twice?

    If the answer to either (or both) is no, chances are the bead doesn't fit tightly enough.

  24. #424
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    Thanks

    The tire was lubed from coating the tire bead with the sealant. Definitely snapped when the beads seated as well.

    The tire didn't rotate even while riding it completely flat but I'll try building up the seat area.

  25. #425
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    set my marge lites up tubeless yesterday, using a red clownshoe rim strip and a single wrap of gorilla tape around the center to prevent bulging. Filled the tires, a Vee Snowshoe in front and a Vee 8 in the back, with 3 scoops of Stans & about +20 psi and rode home 5 miles on pavement. This morning, both tires were still very firm. I'll call it a success!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-20140218_140826.jpg  

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20140214_113153.jpg  


  26. #426
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    Searching Amazon they also show RS Hughes selling 96mm wide 3M blue standard packaging tape with the same specs. wouldn't that work best on my 90mm rims so I can get the tape out and up the bead for seating purposes? I have a Fatboy and people seem to suggest getting the tape all the way to the bead and even up a bit so the tire locks everything in place. Thanks for any insight.

  27. #427
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    Did you use clear Gorilla Tape?



    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    set my marge lites up tubeless yesterday, using a red clownshoe rim strip and a single wrap of gorilla tape around the center to prevent bulging. Filled the tires, a Vee Snowshoe in front and a Vee 8 in the back, with 3 scoops of Stans & about +20 psi and rode home 5 miles on pavement. This morning, both tires were still very firm. I'll call it a success!

  28. #428
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    Any updates on Stan's wide tape?

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by celdred1 View Post
    Searching Amazon they also show RS Hughes selling 96mm wide 3M blue standard packaging tape with the same specs. wouldn't that work best on my 90mm rims so I can get the tape out and up the bead for seating purposes ?
    In theory it would be better to use the right width tape, eg 72mm or as you have found 96mm.

    Its very hard to control where the tape goes if trying to do it all in one go, trying to tape a few millimetres up the bead wall with the thicknesses of foam varying from person to person needs slightly different widths and the strength needed to pull this thickness tight all the way around while perfectly covering 2 beads sounds like a multi-tasking exercise and as you know its only women who multi-task

    The tape overlaps on itself and sticks beautifully and using 2 wraps of 48mm (one each side) and overlapping it in the middle lets you pull it really tight and controls how much you put up each bead wall.
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  30. #430
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    Thinking about taking the plunge myself.

    Was going to grab these valves

    This tape

    I'm looking for the right kind of foam, preferably one available through Amazon if possible, could someone recommend some?

    I have regular Rolling Darryl's and Big Fat Larry's. Down the line I will probably switch to Hudu's.

    Thanks for any help.
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  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
    Did you use clear Gorilla Tape?
    I used black. As an update, I'll add that the gorilla tape has essentially failed, there is a small amount of Stan's between it and the rim strip, although the continue to hold about 20 psi of air, for over a week. I will eventually remove it as it's not necessary and only adds weight.

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    My #1 suggestion against burps is build up the Bead Seat Diameter of the rim, so the fit between the tire and rim will be tighter.

    Did the tire require a bit of pressure and lubrication to seat?
    Did it "plop" with a snappy sound twice?

    If the answer to either (or both) is no, chances are the bead doesn't fit tightly enough.
    I have been playing around with tubeless for a while and have a system that I have had good success with. It does not use gorilla tape which I have had fail because of the liquid sealant after time. I have found what Saul Lumikko said about the building up the bead seat to be very important to get a good seal that does not burp or leak over time.
    I have tried a lot of different way but most of this winter I have been do this method with low and high pressures have done a couple long races with a lot of abuse and have not had any failures.

    What I have been doing is keeping the rim strip in place and installing the rim back on the bike ( it just makes it a lot easier ) adding ¾” wide electrical tape to the rim against the bead lock 2 layers on each side has worked good for me. This tape will lap over the rim strip a little bit.

    Then I lap 2 more layers of 1 ½” electrical tape, these layers I lap up over the vertical part of the rim ( the bead lock) so when the tire is seated you will see about an 1/8” of the tape showing.

    Next I use the 6 wide shrink wrap on the cardboard handle, wrap the rim with it keep it tight and equal amount on each edge of the rim. You should get a nice concaved area between the rim beads which will help when airing up your tire. I do a minimum of 6 layers, then before I cut the shrink wrap I add a bead of silicone across the shrink wrap to seal it from getting any tire sealant between the layers of shrink wrap.

    Install your valve stem

    Install your tire as normal then spray soapy water around both beads this will help the tire slip on to the bead seats. On 100MM rims I normally have to put a ratchet strap around the center to get it to air up. 80mm rims I find a lot easier to get to air up.

    Once they are aired up spray the soapy water around the rim and the beads to check for leaks. Most of the time if the tire fit tight on the rim you will have no leaks or very small leaks that will seal with tire sealant.

    If I have a leak in the bead that I think might not seal with tire seal or just for added protection, once the tire has been aired up let the air out of the tire roll the tire over so that the bead opens up you can squirt silicone in it make sure it gets all the way down in the bead. Air up the tire and clean off the excess with de-natured alcohol.

    After that I let some air out and put the tire sealant in through the valve stem. Make sure you use removable core valve stems. I have noticed my tires leak all over the side walls as they get older before the sealant is installed. But seal right up with sealant.
    Trim the excess shrink warp by trimming it with a razor blade. I try to leave about an 1/8” .

  33. #433
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    Fatboy conversion

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wheelrear.jpg

    I converted my Fatboy wheels as follows:

    • removed the factory rim strip
    • 1 layer 1.88" digital camo Duck tape backed by 1.88" clear
      packing tape
    • 3 layers 1.88" Gorilla tape, 1 per side abutting the vertical rim wall and overlapping the Duck tape, the 3rd down the middle
    • set overnight with the original tube at 25 PSI
    • unbeaded one side, pulled the tube
    • tubeless valve with removable core, through a hole drilled through the tape slightly smaller than the valve
    • aired up with a compressor, beads "popped"
    • tested for integrity; held air without sealant
    • 6 oz Stan's through the valve, reinflated. Tiny bit of sealant seen at a couple of spots on the bead after the "shake."


    So far, so good! No air loss or burps running 5/6 PSI F/R on snow-packed trails in New Hampshire.

    Weight loss of 0.65# per tire, 1.3" total.
    Thanks to everyone who's posted throughout the forums for the advice on setup.

  34. #434
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    Looks nice neusaab what rim and how wide is it ?
    I think a lot of the trouble with going tubeless is all the different rim and tire combos and the inconsistencies with the manufactures pacifically the tires. I find that you by 2 tires at the same time and type one can be tight on the bead and the other be loose. I don’t think there is much quality control in place by the manufactures.

  35. #435
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    It's the stock Specialized rim, 90 mm.

    Spesh is doing allright with the quality control; both of these rims and tires set up exactly the same for me. Some luck involved, I'm sure.

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    Tubeless Success - HuDu and HRD

    After reading through every thread, posting, musing, etc. I decided to give it a go.

    Things I learned:
    - HuDu with wire bead is a PITA
    - HuDu with 120 tpi - super easy
    - HuDu with 120 tpi has VERY thin casing. Long term durability seems questionable.

    Anyway, I wanted a compromise between the tubeless benefits for a fattie (rolling resistance and flats) and what ever I could do to minimize weight. I ended up with a hybrid Gorilla Tape and 3M tape. It looks like I was able to do both with about a 1/2 pound loss in each wheel.

    First I cut the Gorilla Tape (GT) to about 1/2 inch. Then placed one strip all the way around each side to build up the wheel a little and get a good seal for the Rim Strip.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_08891.jpg

    Then I ran one strip of the 3M tape around each side. I stretched it as tight as I could. Here is one side done.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_08901.jpg

    To help with the stretching, I placed a piece of PVC pipe between the spokes and stepped on it while I stretched the 3M tape around.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_08911.jpg

    Finally, I stretched on more strip of 3M tape right down the middle to seal up the seam of the two outside strips. It looked like over time this would be a place to leak. And at about 4 grams per rotation, well worth the insurance.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_08921.jpg

    After that, pretty standard. Put tire on, aired up with tube. Pop Pop!

    Break one side, remove tube and place Stans valves.

    Turn wheel so broken bead is facing down and blow up with compressor. Pop, Pop!

    Even holds air without and Stans.

    When all was said and done, I saved about 150 gr. per wheel. So, not a huge weight savings, but then that was not the primary goal. Now to go ride and see how she feels.


    Thanks to all for posting up what worked and didn't. First try, about 30 min per tire and 100% success.
    Zip

  37. #437
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    Nice work ! Looking good.
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  38. #438
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    Seeing how yesterday was Tuesday and all I gave it a shot

    Rims are Surly Holy Rolling Darryl's
    Tires are 45NRTH Dillinger

    Front wheel I setup with a strip of sill foam trimmed down to fit in the valley. Then I found some poly tape at Lowes (see the picture). Seemed to have a nice stretch ability and contoured well and was 48mm wide - bonus was it only cost $7.50 for 60 yard roll. I ran a strip down one edge as close as I could get the inside and then repeated on other. All this after cleaning the bead area on the rim first. What I didn't do was any prep on the bead area on the tire itself......

    So as you'll see in the picture I get a bit of seepage from the bead area - especially if I go over 10psi. It sat over night and still had about 8-9psi in it but when I added some to have it set up a bit more it started seeping out around the bead area again...

    Now the rear tire I just went ahead and did the split tube - wham bam the thing was still holding at 15psi this morning and no seepage anywhere

    I'm considering just pulling the front back apart and doing split tube on it and calling it good.

    Ed

    Tubeless Tuesday.-seep.jpgTubeless Tuesday.-sidewall.jpgTubeless Tuesday.-tape.jpg

  39. #439
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    Split tube rules. After fighting tape, undermining of adhesion, fighting wrinkles etc. I don't see the point of going through all this when a split tube is probably not any heavier and its instantly waterproof.

  40. #440
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    not to mention the adhesion between the tube and the tire makes burping a rare event

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcappy View Post
    MCS, here is my procedure for NATE's on Clownshoes/
    Install Surly rim strip:
    Install Q-Tube, 24 x 2.75, inflate a little, straighten the seam, slit all the way around with scissor, wipe off powder:
    Install NATE:
    Tie a rope around NATE and tighten enough to push tire out to bead area:
    Inflate with normal hand pump until tire bead seats:
    Remove valve core and add Stans, re-install valve core, pump to desired pressure:
    Trim off excess Q-Tube:
    Ride!

    NO foam, no tape, no problem!
    +1 on this!
    Only the dead fish swims with the current!

  42. #442
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    if anyone rides a lot of water/mud, go split tube! i went g tape when i first got bike this year, rode in snow for several months no problem. Snow melted, then mud riding started. cleaned drivetrain using simple green after one of the mud rides, next ride couple days later and tire went flat leaking around the rim holes. the simple green had gotten under the tape and ate the adhesive. i ended up re-taping rim since i didn't have tubes to go split tube. was riding last weekend and front tire went flat from same issue. never used simple green up there so i can only assume it was due to all the water i've been riding in.

    I have 24" tubes now, so converted front over last night. couldn't believe how much easier it was. Not sure why i went g tape method before. Will do rear once i get some more stans.

    speaking of sealant, when i was putting tube in on trail to get back to truck i checked inside for thorns first. i couldn't believe how many were in there! i bet there were at least 20! some were almost touching inside of rim! tire was still holding air before tape gave way, so that proves how good stans and going tubeless is if you ride in a thorny area like i do. I would have had 20 flats to fix if not for stans and tubless.

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    Split tube rules...

  44. #444
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    Originally Posted by gcappy
    MCS, here is my procedure for NATE's on Clownshoes/
    Install Surly rim strip:
    Install Q-Tube, 24 x 2.75, inflate a little, straighten the seam, slit all the way around with scissor, wipe off powder:
    Install NATE:
    Tie a rope around NATE and tighten enough to push tire out to bead area:
    Inflate with normal hand pump until tire bead seats:
    Remove valve core and add Stans, re-install valve core, pump to desired pressure:
    Trim off excess Q-Tube:
    Ride!

    NO foam, no tape, no problem!

    Quote Originally Posted by Morej View Post
    +1 on this!
    So many posts about other methods other than the split tube. Some work and some don't. Some work temporarily. For me it's split tube from now on. It's the easiest and surest system until they make all the rims and tires tubeless.

  45. #445
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    I have no arguments against spilt tube and reckon what cappy says is spot on, until sh1t becomes regulated standard, its a fool proof sure way of achieving tubeless easily.

    Some people go tubeless for benefits of not having trouble with tubes, some do it for the weigh saving.

    Personally i do it for both, if there was a weight gain i would be on the fence, the weight saving definitely give me the drive to achieve it with every set of wheels i own.

    BTW apart from my latest setback with the new 90mm carbon wheels, every set of wheels i own now are carbon fibre and tubeless.
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  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    I have no arguments against spilt tube and reckon what cappy says is spot on, until sh1t becomes regulated standard, its a fool proof sure way of achieving tubeless easily.

    Some people go tubeless for benefits of not having trouble with tubes, some do it for the weigh saving.

    Personally i do it for both, if there was a weight gain i would be on the fence, the weight saving definitely give me the drive to achieve it with every set of wheels i own.

    BTW apart from my latest setback with the new 90mm carbon wheels, every set of wheels i own now are carbon fibre and tubeless.
    flat protection is what i was after first, weight savings second. even if it made it heavier but made you less likely to get a flat i would still do it. flats suck!

  47. #447
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    It would have to be a good gain (should have said), the puncture protection is second to none. I have had my fill of pumping up a fat tube to find a hole, nevermind eventually pumping the tyre up to recc'd pressure.
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  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    ... Some people go tubeless for benefits of not having trouble with tubes, some do it for the weigh saving...
    ... and some to lose the roll resistance of the tube - let the tire deform & reform on its own.

    And as this conforms easier to the terrain, better float? better traction? better feel?

  49. #449
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    Decided to finally take the plunge on tubeless on the Fatty but where to get the Q-Tubes cheaply in the UK ?

    Or an equivalent alternative ?

    All I seem to be able to find are USA sites where shipping / import duties hike the price up to something near a cheap 29er tyre !



    TIA




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  50. #450
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    But over there, you have reasonable prices for the Schwalbe. Nice rubber too.
    Here we can get:
    Schraeder: AV10 (to 2.5") for 165g, AV10D (to 3.5", heavy duty) at 260G.
    Presta 40mm: SV10 (to 2.5") for 165G.

  51. #451
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    Yep... welcome to fatbiking.

    If you think you are riding sh1t before all your mates, you'll be paying for it.

    Jenson's... shipping is not the cheapest.
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  52. #452
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    Shipping I can take on the chin . It is what it is . But the UK seems to swap the $ sign for the £ sign (without using the exchange rate) THEN add 20% V.A.T. (our tax) then add ANOTHER $15 at the post office just for their handling charge . It all becomes quite expensive quite quickly .

    Maybe we could look into a UK group buy of Q-Tubes or something LOL

    Remind me again why I like living here. . . . . . . . oh yeah that's right the gorgeous weather


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  53. #453
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    Fatbiker, im from Belfast 12 years ago, been there, done it...

    Emmigrated here and the threshold is $999 so Chainreaction and Wiggle have a field day shipping sh1t to us, $80 order and its free, we do multiple orders just to get it past postage recs, one wheel here, one wheel there...
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  54. #454
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    I updated my tubeless conversion overview over on my blog: Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life

  55. #455
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    Very nice job and write up!

    EDIT:
    You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to cujarrett again.

  56. #456
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    Great pics and write up.

    The rider in the last pic is having soooo much fun you can see the halo around his helmet. ;p

  57. #457
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    Great writeup! Why did you go with the clear tape vice wide Gorilla tape that would only require one pass?

  58. #458
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    FWIW, I've posted this elsewhere and I think someone posted it somewhere in this thread, but I've used split tube, gorilla tape, the 3M similar-to-stans tape, and nothing has worked as well as Leading Edge Tape. This stuff is bomber. 4", trim to fit. Can't say enough good things about it.

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3323
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  59. #459
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    This thread reminds me, I need to do up a fresh batch of sealant & fill the tires again before I get stuck out somewhere with a flat.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    FWIW, I've posted this elsewhere and I think someone posted it somewhere in this thread, but I've used split tube, gorilla tape, the 3M similar-to-stans tape, and nothing has worked as well as Leading Edge Tape. This stuff is bomber. 4", trim to fit. Can't say enough good things about it.

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3323
    I was in the same boat and failed multiple attempts until I picked up some of that stuff. Finally succeeded and only lost a little over 1 psi over a week.

  61. #461
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    Just thought I would update all on the success of this set-up.


    They held air better than almost any other tubeless set-up I have tried. (Original No-Tubes strips, Stans wheels etc) I almost never had to put air into them. I was even off the bike for two weeks and when I came back, the pressures were right where I left them 14 days ago. I must say I was pretty surprised.

    I just replaced the tires with new 120 TPI HuDu's last night.

    - Put on new tire
    - Pump up tube to initially set bead
    - Pull tube out
    - Pump up with compressor, POP!
    - Put three scoops of Stans, do the Stans shake.
    - Checked on tires this morning and still holding 30 PSI

    Time to drop the pressures and go for a ride.

    I think this hybrid tubeless set-up is about perfect so far.



    Quote Originally Posted by ZipMTB View Post
    After reading through every thread, posting, musing, etc. I decided to give it a go.

    Things I learned:
    - HuDu with wire bead is a PITA
    - HuDu with 120 tpi - super easy
    - HuDu with 120 tpi has VERY thin casing. Long term durability seems questionable.

    Anyway, I wanted a compromise between the tubeless benefits for a fattie (rolling resistance and flats) and what ever I could do to minimize weight. I ended up with a hybrid Gorilla Tape and 3M tape. It looks like I was able to do both with about a 1/2 pound loss in each wheel.

    First I cut the Gorilla Tape (GT) to about 1/2 inch. Then placed one strip all the way around each side to build up the wheel a little and get a good seal for the Rim Strip.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then I ran one strip of the 3M tape around each side. I stretched it as tight as I could. Here is one side done.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    To help with the stretching, I placed a piece of PVC pipe between the spokes and stepped on it while I stretched the 3M tape around.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Finally, I stretched on more strip of 3M tape right down the middle to seal up the seam of the two outside strips. It looked like over time this would be a place to leak. And at about 4 grams per rotation, well worth the insurance.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    After that, pretty standard. Put tire on, aired up with tube. Pop Pop!

    Break one side, remove tube and place Stans valves.

    Turn wheel so broken bead is facing down and blow up with compressor. Pop, Pop!

    Even holds air without and Stans.

    When all was said and done, I saved about 150 gr. per wheel. So, not a huge weight savings, but then that was not the primary goal. Now to go ride and see how she feels.


    Thanks to all for posting up what worked and didn't. First try, about 30 min per tire and 100% success.
    Zip

  62. #462
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    thanks zipmtb
    that's some great info there and looks super easy with the pics
    nice neat job well done
    cheers
    ip

  63. #463
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    Just did a tubeless conversion for the first time... A couple of hiccups, but seems to have gone pretty smoothly all things considered. I'm going to add some of the details that I wish I had when I started.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-pugs-dillinger-2.jpg
    Front Tire: Holy Rolling Darryl, Dillinger 5.
    Split-tube size: 24"x2.75. I had a good 0.75" of extra tube to cut off when I finished, so this was plenty big.
    Rim Strip: 2" wide retro-reflective tape from Amazon.
    Rim: Couldn't find wide 24" Presta tubes, so drilled it out to accept a scraeder valve. 7/32" drill bit, and a circular file to debur and slightly enlarge the hole.
    Foam: DEFINITELY needed the 2 thin layers of foam. the tire wouldn't seat even with a cargo strap around the tire without the foam. I used 2 layers of fairly thin foam underlayment left over from putting in my laminate floor (it was in the house). Instant tire seating without ANY trouble at all; no cargo strap needed.
    Bead seated at ~30PSI.
    Stans: Ended up with ~4oz in the tire. Meant to have more, but after the initial failure I lost several oz.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-pugs-dillinger-3.jpg
    Rear tire: Marge Lite + D4 (Wire bead)
    Same retro-reflective rim strip as the front.
    24"x1.9" Tube. There was just exactly the right amount of excess materiel, didn't need to trim any off.
    I just put the 2 foam strips in after my experience on the front wheel. Instant sealing, no trouble at all.
    Bead popped at ~20PSI.
    Stans: Poured ~3oz in the tire.

    So far, tires have held ~30PSI for the last 4 hours with no trouble. I went riding around the lawn and up and down our little hill with them to help slosh the stans around. We'll see in the morning, but things are looking good so far.

  64. #464
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    Looks like success on the rear tire, and not quite enough sealant on the front. The Rear tire was 20PSI this morning, so seems to have sealed well. The front tire was down to 15, and when I looked in between the split-tube and the tire, I could see a little bit of bubbling near the top. I did the shake/roll again and it's slowed, but is still bubbling a bit. Probably need to add more sealant; I've ordered an injector so I can top it off without needing to break the bead.

    EDIT: After about an hour of riding around the lawn with my girls, it looks like the bubbling has stopped. It may just be because I lowered the pressure to ~9psi, though. We'll see how stable it is. I think I'll still probably add some more sealant to be safe.

  65. #465
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    Just to throw in my own experience - I had good luck with Marge Lites, split tube with 24x2.7" tubes, and Vee Rubber Snow Shoes. I have since switched the rear to a Knard, still with split tube - the Knard was a lot harder to get seated, but I finally did with just a floor pump. I recently changed the front wheel over, using no tube and just a clown shoe rim strip with a HuDu 120tpi folding bead - this has been perfect, no burping, no leaking, no issues whatever in over 100 miles of single track riding. I've added air once. I was surprised how well that worked. Pretty easy to air up, and super simple. Will give that a shot for the rear wheel when I switch over to winter tires soon.

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  67. #467
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    In the tradition of Tubeless Tuesday, I switch from my summer setup Hudu/Knard to my winter setup Bud/Nate. I forgot how much I don't like the process.

    1) Dismount old tires, discard old split tube, clean sealant off hands and anywhere else it dripped.

    2) There is not a snowballs-chance-in-hell that I can get either my 27tpi Nate or but to mount up tubeless using only a split tube. I utilize a thin pack foam from work, cut it to 6" width, then fold it over, and wrap it around the entire rim.

    3) Mount the tube, air it up, center it on the rim, and then cut it.

    4) Use a brush to remove majority of powder, then rag to remove the rest.

    5) Mount tire on rim, add sealant.

    6) Do the stans dance.

    7) Pull tire beads as far out as I can.

    8) Inflate with floor pump to 20psi.

    9) Put wheel and the floor, sit on wheel, and bounce up and down while rotating to ensure beads are seated evenly.

    10) Let setup sit overnight @ 20psi.

    11) Mount wheels on bike and spin to ensure there are no major hops or wobbles.

    12) Trim excess split tube material.

    13) Deflate to riding pressure.

    14) Reflect on how nice it would be to have a tubeless ready wheelset.

    15) Fondle the wife.

    16) Take a nap.

  68. #468
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    I hope you never have a blow out at number 9!!!!!

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcappy View Post
    I hope you never have a blow out at number 9!!!!!
    But a blowout #15 would be acceptable and even wanted.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    But a blowout #15 would be acceptable and even wanted.
    As long as no sealant gets in the eyes.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    1) --14) (No sleep required ?)

    15) Fondle the wife.

    16) Take a nap.
    Never met a woman yet that didn't tire me out one way or another either


    Fat Biker

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    As long as no sealant gets in the eyes.
    Oh great! Thanks a lot for that correlation. Now I will have to wear gloves when handling a bottle of Stans!!

  73. #473
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    Tubeless Wednesday.

    My attempt at Tubeless Tuesday on Wednesday.

    Bike: Salsa BG
    Rim: Holy Darryl
    Tire: 45NRTH

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_002.jpg
    1. Get crap @ LBS, 2 tubes, big bottle of Stans.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_001.jpg
    2. Pull Tire/Tube off Rim.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_003.jpg
    3. Mount up 24 x2.4-2.75 Kenda Q Tubes and split them.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_005.jpg
    4. Poke small hole in tube, feed in valve stem.

    5. Do a trial run, get bead to seat on un-Stans'ed tire. It holds air!

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_008.jpg
    5. Pull valve stem, feed in 4-5 Stans cups. (I later ended up just peeling a bit of tire from the rim and pouring the Stans in.)

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_007.jpg
    6. Pump and slosh like a mad mutherfooker.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_011.jpg
    7. Trim off excess rubber.

    8. Hurry up and wait.

    Notes: I weighed the combo, and the tubeless was actually heavier. Hopefully the tubeless is worth it cause it was 6oz heavier each wheel.

    The rear tire worked flawlessly. The front I didn't do the trial run bead seat step pump to 20+ lbs, and as a result it took a piss load more effort to get the front tire to pump up, and ultimately, a CO2 cartridge.

    I didn't use any Gorilla tape. That may have been a mistake? Dunno.

    No wife fondling required.

    I'll update in the AM.

  74. #474
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    Why didnt you just use the valve stem that was molded into the tube? That way you wouldnt have to poke a hole in your split tube.. Just wondering

  75. #475
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    I'll play even though I actually did this on a sunday:

    Summary: Split tube!

    Materials:

    Surly rolling darryl (1 3/8" holes drilled by yours truly)
    120tpi Surly Bud
    27tpi Surly Nate (stock of course)
    24x2.75 Qtubes w/removable presta valve
    Roll of dish packing foam sheets from home depot (they had underlaymet as well but it was 3x more$)
    Stans
    Blue surly rim strips

    Method:

    -I started out by cutting 6' x 2" strips of the foam packing sheets (folding it didn't work). This was the biggest PIA...until attempting to seat the bead. The foam was real thin so I started with 3 and ended up with 6 layers (attempting to seat after each layer which wasted a lot of time). Note: Try and find thicker foam.
    -split the tube and cleaned the powder out, streched it over the rim/foam
    -Mounted the tire and made sure all the components ended up as they should (split tube even, foam within the bead seats) and sprayed the edges down with soapy water
    -Removed the presta core and used a compressor to seat the bead. The Bud seated well almost right away but the Nate took a lot of attempts. One small section just didn't want to seat. I was getting annoyed so I just put some stans in, pumped it up and ate dinner. When I got back it magically seated itself.

    I think the Nate lost some air but the temperature also dropped 50 degrees (literally) from when I inflated it. I've done 2 rides on it and so far so good!

  76. #476
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    Tubeless Tuesday.

    Use a Stan's injector to install the sealant after the tire is seated.


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  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by daverx1 View Post
    Why didnt you just use the valve stem that was molded into the tube? That way you wouldnt have to poke a hole in your split tube.. Just wondering
    Hmmm...Other than the Q tubes don't have a removable valve core, which I use to add Stans, however given it takes 4 or 5 cap fulls, I may need to invest in one of those syringe things? Actually, I don't really have a good answer.

    We'll see if the damn thing actually works. I didn't use foam filler or Gorilla tape so I hope it holds.

  78. #478
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    I buy Q tubes specifically for split tube because they have removable cores. Didn't know you could buy Q tubes that didn't.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by WA-CO View Post
    Hmmm...Other than the Q tubes don't have a removable valve core.
    You maybe wanna edit this in an effort to not confuse others?

  80. #480
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    hehe, stans goop, rubber gloves, valve stems and shake it all about like a paint shaker for 3min....

  81. #481
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    Every Q-tube I've used has a removable core.

    The nextie rim I have on the front has been nicer to use so far, no split tube, no gorilla tape, just stans tape to seal the spoke holes, sealant, air, ride.

    I let my rear sealant almost dry up & ended up fixing a flat trailside last week.

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I let my rear sealant almost dry up & ended up fixing a flat trailside last week.
    With 6 bikes that use stans sealant and living in the desert (Phoenix, AZ) where a sealant recharge only lasts about a month in the summer, I run into this problem all the time. I carry a ziplock bag with 2 (2 oz.) bottles of stans and a tube of super glue (for small tears) and a few time just added a little water from a water bottle or camelback. The particles that seal up any hole are still in the tire, it's just the fluid that acts as a suspension agent dries up and the sealant can't get to the leak. While I've never tired this on my Salsa its worked numerous times on my and other peoples skinny bikes.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 11-13-2014 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Grammer f-up

  83. #483
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    I need to try this!
    Surely easier than getting covered in sealant goop while installing a tube to get out of the woods

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    With 6 bikes that use stans sealant and living in the desert (Phoenix, AZ) where a sealant recharge only lasts about a month in the summer, I run into this problem all the time. I carry a ziplock bag with 2 (2 oz.) bottles of stans and a tube of super glue (for small tears) and a few time just added a little water from a water bottle or camelback. The particles that seal up any hole are still in the tire, it's just the fluid that acts as a suspension agent dries up and the sealant can't get to the leak. While I've never tired this on my Salsa its worked numerous times on my and other peoples skinny bikes.
    Mole

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by WA-CO View Post
    My attempt at Tubeless Tuesday on Wednesday.

    Bike: Salsa BG
    Rim: Holy Darryl
    Tire: 45 NRTH Dillinger

    I'll update in the AM.
    The 24x2.4-2.75 DID have a removable core. So obviously I could have just split the tube and used them instead of a pair of Stans....Oh well...

    Anyway, today was our first day of with decent snowfall. Dropped down to 10-ish psi. Rode for 2+ hours, both tires appear to be holding air fine.

    The 24x2.4 tube is much much thicker than the 2.1. Had I used that, I doubt it would have worked. I hoped it was going to be this easy. I'm totally surprised it actually was.

  85. #485
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    I had an unexpected incident on my commute home today, and I'm hoping for some advice. I'm running a Dillinger 5 on a RD rim up front, and a Dillinger 4 on a Marge Lite in the rear, both set up split-tube. I was in the street portion of my commute, nothing too weird or bumpy and I suddenly got the strong smell of Stan's. Tires were still holding enough air for me to get home, and when I got there, all I could find were a few of streaks of stans on my front tire, presumably coming from the bead. The weird thing is that I can't have lost too much air; the tire still held 20PSI per my gauge. Is this just business as normal with tubeless, or did I miss something in the setup? It's my first tubeless run, so I'm a little nervous that I'm risking a more serious loss of air in the future...

    Thoughts?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-d5_burp.jpg  


  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by evandy View Post
    I had an unexpected incident on my commute home today, and I'm hoping for some advice. I'm running a Dillinger 5 on a RD rim up front, and a Dillinger 4 on a Marge Lite in the rear, both set up split-tube. I was in the street portion of my commute, nothing too weird or bumpy and I suddenly got the strong smell of Stan's. Tires were still holding enough air for me to get home, and when I got there, all I could find were a few of streaks of stans on my front tire, presumably coming from the bead. The weird thing is that I can't have lost too much air; the tire still held 20PSI per my gauge. Is this just business as normal with tubeless, or did I miss something in the setup? It's my first tubeless run, so I'm a little nervous that I'm risking a more serious loss of air in the future...

    Thoughts?
    One thought is that 20 psi (assuming that you had an accurate reading) is pretty high, especially considering the volume of a D5. With your weight and the weight of the bike and equipment and what not, it could be just that under load, it was a bit too much air for the bead to hold. Once the pressure went down enough, the bead was able to seal back up.

  87. #487
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    The reading was from an sks airchecker... Supposed to be pretty accurate. I just double checked the bead and it is fully seated on both sides. I upped the pressure to ease rolling resistance until the big snow hits... I can try 15 or so tomorrow, I suppose.

  88. #488
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    Mine "weeped" for a couple of days as things seemed to settle in. I had 20+ for a day or so, while the Stans distributed, but I've since dropped the pressure down, and rode actually yesterday without incident.

  89. #489
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    I have been riding ghetto tubeless for some time now, and attempted to shave some weight.

    Current setup: Clown Shoe rims, packing tape rim strip, Schwalbe AV-10D tube split. Tube weight around 260 grams (claimed).

    Attempt 1: Schwalbe AV-7C (22" lightweight tube). Claimed 90 grams, weighed 100 grams.
    Result: The tube stretched over the rim very easily, despite being smaller than usual. However, it only spread out to 70 mm width, so for anything but "narrow" fat bike rims, forget it.



    Attempt 2: Schwalbe AV-10 (the non-D version), weight 165 g (claimed).
    Result: it was promising but failed to deliver: 86 mm wasn't enough for the hundies. Anyone with Rolling Darryls might be interested.



    I was attempting to save as much as 320 grams from rotating weight, but failed. I'll stick to the AV-10D's for now, because despite their weight they have been incredibly easy to set up and offered burp-free and otherwise totally "fit and forget" performance for almost two years already. I might look at the tape method at some point but we'll see.

  90. #490
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    Hey all--
    I've had my wheels tubeless for a couple of weeks now and have this "weeping" going on. Anyone experience this? Is there a way to not have this happen?

    This is on my front wheel. Last weekend it was both wheels but now the rear seems fine. Both wheels seem to be holding air fine and have ridden them without issues.

    Any constructive ideas appreciated. Thanks.

    EDIT: When I mounted the tires I never did get the "pop" that generally happens when I've seated other tires (not fattys) tubeless. Should I be inflating until I hear the classic "pop"? The tires seem to have seated well and roll well, just not sure why the weeping is happening.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wheel-weeping-1.jpg

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wheel-weeping-2.jpg
    Last edited by OnThaCouch; 11-29-2014 at 03:42 PM. Reason: added some more info...

  91. #491
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    Tubeless and cheap fat bike rims

    This forum is awesome, full of good ideas and I've learned from other's mistakes before I made them myself.

    I thought I'd share my latest attempt as I have cheap rims that have no beadlock/bed at all and this has caused issues a bit later on (after the initial setup). There is no satisfactory "pop" of the bead locking in and the tyre could move away from the rim edge and burp air.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_162644.jpg

    The split tube method worked beautifully for me and after I packed up the rim with foam (the tyres are incredibly loose on the rim) I could pump it up with a floor pump easily.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_164432.jpg

    What happened though is that the foam would flatten down under pressure and then when I ran too lower psi (<12psi) or put a lot of lateral force onto the tyre, it would come away from rim and burp all the air out.

    After reading what ozzy did with memory foam/latex I chopped a strip off someone's yoga mat and used that as my padding. (No it's not light but for now I'm keen to see it works). The gaps down the side act like a bead lock.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_164232.jpg

    All good to go. I'll lower the psi and see how the edges hold up over the next few rides.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141222_163223.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_162644.jpg  


  92. #492
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    I read through this thread (very helpful!!) and have a question. I have an older Pugsley I'm converting to tubeless. It has the old Large Marge undrilled wheels and I have the Larry 3.8 tires. I went with the Gorilla tape method and a Stan's presta valve. I had the tires aired up at 30psi with a tube for about 30 hours and now I'm pulling the tube and attempting to finish the process. The tire seems to seat okay with a slight bit of bubbling along a few spots on the wheel rim. But there are also bubbles coming up along the sidewall. I know that the non-tubeless tires will leak through the sidewalls, and I did a tubeless conversion on another bike using Pisgah tires and they leaked for a day through the sidewalls and the Stan's sealant eventually sealed everything. Should the same thing happen with the Larrys, or will it take forever and 8 oz of sealant to eventually seal them? I didn't add any sealant to the tires yet because if I have to do something else, I don't want to deal with sealant running all over when I pull the tire off.

    Thanks for any replies.

    Andy B.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    ... old Large Marge undrilled ... Larry 3.8 tires. ... Gorilla tape ... Stan's presta valve. ... 30psi with a tube for about 30 hours ... pulling the tube ...

    - a slight bit of bubbling along a few spots on the wheel rim. But there are also bubbles coming up along the sidewall. ...

    - I didn't add any sealant to the tires yet...
    So what's bubbling if you didn't add any sealant yet?

  94. #494
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    HA!
    Just soapy water.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  95. #495
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    So, you didn't pay attention to the part about not having any contaminants to interfere with the sealant...

    Do you have any RO/DI water to flush it out with? Including under pressure so those seeping paths you want the sealant to seal are clean and available to plug&bond?

    Some sidewall leaking is taken care of by the sealant. Different sealant, different tires, different wear/seeping, = different results.

    Others wash out the inside - so there won't be any contaminants - and pre-seal the inside surface. Diluted shoe goo, rubber cement, others... Search and see what makes sense to you, or what's been used for seeping Larrys, if not Surlys.

    At least you caught this before you're getting sealant all over.

  96. #496
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    It's just on the outside of the tires. The bead was about seated before I sprayed it on, so I figured since none was inside the tire, it should be okay. If need be, I can pop the bead again and check the inside. The bead seated fairly easily, so I don't think there would be a problem to do it. I only unseated one side to get the tube out and put the Stan's stem in. To tell the truth, it was more difficult POPPING the bead off, than seating it!!!

    EDIT: I did clean the wheels and inside of the tires before attempting this. I also washed off the tubes I used. I think I should be okay from a sealant functioning issue. I didn't pay attention to the pre-sealing the tire part though. I can see where that might be a good idea.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  97. #497
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    Only on the outside is very good news!

    Only what got between the rim and the tire from the outside. May cause an issue. I'd suggest to rinse that very very well.

    You'll have to judge on:
    • is the mechanical seal good enough that sealant will finish the job (sealant won't fix a poor mechanical seal)(you're using Gorilla tape, which has the highest failure rate of any of the methods/materials)?
    • is the sidewall seeping low/little/minimal enough that sealant will seal it, or should the tire be presealed on the inside?

  98. #498
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    THANKS!!!!

    I think the sidewall seeping should be okay now that I look at it. The Pisgahs leaked like that, but sealed up in a few minutes. If I lay the tires on their sides, it should seal.

    I might pop the bead and wipe down the rim area though just to make sure no soapy water got in there. I don't think I'll use any water when I reseat it. I really don't think it was needed.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  99. #499
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    And the mechanical seal of bead to tape over seat?
    (sealant will seal, it won't fill gaps)
    Given how easily it popped in, do you need another run around the rim to build the height up, or does it seem good to go?

    p.s.
    if your sealant has latex with ammonia: when you're laying it on one side (overnight?) to get that side's seeping sealed, you may offgas some ammonia through the up/unsealed side, which leaves the latex less protected from setting up. When you're done, consider topping up a small amount of ammonia to keep preventing the latex from setting up into the classic boogers. Otherwise you may end up opening, cleaning and replacing your sealant much sooner than you expected.

  100. #500
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    Thanks for the tips!

    I wouldn't say it "easily" seated, but I will say I had to really push on the sidewall to UNSEAT the bead. I think I'm good with the rim height.

    I'm going to have to check the sealant ingredients. I didn't think of the ammonia issue.

    I just got back from a ride on a non-fast bike (I know, sacrilege!!! LOL), so I have to go play with this project again.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

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