The Hudu's were a bit problematic for me on the Holy RD's, figure out which side is giving you the most grief seat that side with a tube then pull it out and seat the other. If that doesn't work you can always grab the hairspray and lighter if you don't have a compressor.
Originally Posted by alshead
Been reading this thread with interest. I have just bought an On-One fatty and at some point want to go tubeless. I'm a bit torn now between this method with tape and foam or the split tube method.
I have just found some 48mm 3M 8898 strapping tape but it's £32 a roll!
I have a question about seating the valve when using the foam. When you put the valve thorugh and tighten up the nut does the valve base seal agaist the tape ok? Do you not run the risk of tightening it and pulling the valve through the tape?
I would be having another look, im taking it you are in the UK by the currency quoted
Here's a better price for starters Tapes | Farnell United Kingdom | Results
Couple questions for you Ozzy...
Would it be possible for you to post the manufacturers part number on the 55mm wide 3M tape you found? Might make Google searches for each region more effective.
The "vinyl rim tape" you mention... is this just some sort of non-stick vinyl strapping?
The second attempt using the 3M tape and vinyl strip used no foam whatsoever, correct?
Thanks for the help... appreciate all the documentation and answers you have posted.
Here you go - **Scotch® Film Strapping Tape 8898 Blue, 48 mm x 55 m, 24 per case Bulk
The vinyl rims strips are cut from a roll of vinyl cloth at a craft shop, vinyl that is used in dressmaking, basically coloured waterproof cloth.
The second attempt, and third and fourth i always use 10mm EVA foam. This non memory foam makes it easy to inflate tyres with a floor pump.
Good luck with your conversion.
Awesome.... thanks a lot!!
I have just done a little experiment tonight successfully.
I have used ripstop nylon as the rim strip, weighs about 1-2g for 2 wraps, feels like feather weight, my scales wont even register.
Then 2 wraps of 8898 tape @ less than 10g.
The ultralight HuDu was inflated on the margelite rim for a week at 30psi with a tube, i deflated and took them off, cleaned the old tape off the rim then did the new lightweight taping, put the tyre on with a tube then inflated... popping both beads.
Carefully removed 1 bead seal and the tube then screwed in a tubeless valve with 1 bead still seated.
I then put some soapy water on the remaining unseated bead, set the wheel horizontally on a bucket (so the unsealed bead was being forced down with gravity and inflated it with a track pump popping the other bead and sealing the tyre onto the rim successfully.
So tomorrow when i get time i will inject 60-80ml of stans into the tyre through the valve stem and see if i can seal it.
So the complete rimstrip with tape is around 10-15g in total.
Will keep yous updated when i add the stans and try to get the tyre sealed.
My whole idea with this is as an out and out race wheelset.
Got a 907 built up for my wife and daughter a week ago and it flatted yesterday so I decided to take it tubeless like my surly.
The HDs on Rolling Darrel's sure didn't take to the Getto tubeless setup as quickly as my Marge Lites with Escalators. Those have been set up for six months with no issues. I unseated one side to check the Stan's fill and it was still pretty good. Added one scoop and seated it back up with a compressor. Not even a "Stan's ball" to take out.
Back to the HDs... Split and mounted a tube over the surly rim strip, set on the tire, doused it all with soapy water, and tried to use my compressor to fill through the valveless stem. No luck. Wrapped a strap around the tire to push it out some on the rim and it finally aired up after giggling and rotating the tire a bit. Extra hands would make it easier. Quickly put the valve core back in and pumped it up to 30. Never got the Pop I got with the escalators as they seated on the rim but it looks like it is seated properly and is holding pressure.
The extra width on the rolling Darrel made it a lot harder to air up compared to the Marge lites as there is a lot more space for air to escape.
Did you tell your wife about the mod? If not, it would be a great way to gain feedback from a rider who might not understand the differences. Ask your wife if the bike feels different.
2014 Scott CX Comp (gravel grinder)
2014 Surly "OPS"
2013 Scott Scale 960
I'm a beer drinker with a mountain bike problem...
Ordered supplies to go tubeless-
orange seal tubeless valves- I like the larger rubber foot on these but it made me think (after I bought them) that I could have made my own from some blown 700cc tubes...
Plan on using Tyvek Tape to seal up the rims, no foam, Stan's sealant, and some 3M reflective tape on the Surly rimstrip.
Will update when I get the supplies and get it done!
After a couple rides, wife hasn't noticed a difference. I think she's still in the honeymoon stage with this bike and hasn't found any quirks to mention... yet.
Originally Posted by jonshonda
The 8898 blue tape is a bit hard to find by the roll rather than the case . Here are the 2 links(by the roll) already mentioned in this thread.
The 72 (2 7/8")
Welcome to R.S.Hughes
The 48mm (1 7/8")
3M Scotch 8898 Synthetic Rubber Film Strapping Adhesive Tape, 4.6 mil Thick, 60.14 yds Length x 1-7/8" Width, Blue: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
And here is a link to 2" x 165' Tyvek tape that some people use with success
Amazon.com : Tyvek Sheathing Tape 2" x 165' : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Also if you are using glue, rubber cement (Elmers $1.49) is not quite the same as vulcanizing fluid. The Elmers type stuff is made to peel off paper. Either will work but the tire specific stuff has other additives to cause cross linking and it sticks better. However, if they sell it at an auto store (Napa, Autozone) or farm store (Farm Fleet, Tractor supply) it may be called rubber cement. They sell Slime brand "rubber cement" made specifically for tires/tubes 8 oz for $5.99. Buying online incurs shipping fee to include "Hazmat" label.
Last edited by k.b.; 10-06-2013 at 06:31 AM.
Supplies showed up yesterday so I went to work-
Clownshoe with Bud tire
Removed the surly rimstrip, cleaned it off and put a strip of reflective tape down it and put it back on the rim.
Ran 1 strip of 2" tyvek tape down each side of the rim (not fully in contact with the side of the rim) then I ran a stripe down the center of the rim.
Put the tube back in and pumped her up to 30 psig, left it in for maybe 15 minutes. Left one side of the tire on the rim if felt like the bead was set. Pulled the tube out and put in the orange seal tubeless valve, used the o-rings.
I messed around for probably an hour trying to get the bead to set- decided after 30 minutes to put the Stan's in since I didnt want to have to break the bead again... Using a strap and a lot of luck I finally got the bastard to air up. Did the stan's shake- couldnt get the tire to hold air so I put it on the bike and rode it around and that seemed to do the trick- aired it up super tight and left it overnight.
This AM the b#tch was flat... pulled off the tire and washed everything off. Going back for round two when I get home.
I am guessing that I need to run the tape closer to the edge of the rim- it was a slow leak so I am going to go back over all the tape too.
any other suggestions or obvious errors based on my write up??
Did you use some soapy water to see where air was leaking out? Its hard to diagnose if you don't know where its leaking.
Originally Posted by Gizzard75
No, soapy water... thought I had it last night- Will use tonight though so I know if I have it sealed up!
Yeah even if it seems everyhing is sealed up and working well, the last thing I always do is spray it down with soapy water to see if there are any slow leaks.
The sealant may just have not gotten a chance to seal the bead well, you might just need to add more sealant, shake it around a little more and see if it holds air. You may have jumped the gun a little by tearing it all down.
Nothing better than morning rage! Guess it just gives me more practice so my front wheel goes smoothly!
Has your tape covered the holes on the rim bead ? .... might be escaping from there into the rim join and getting free azza bird.
One place you really want to tape up is the holes on the bead near the weld seam on the Surly rims. Otherwise you will be trying to plug those with sealant and since the rim has hollow sections it might take ages and way too much sealant.
I've been running Marge Lites with Husker Dus and Escalators for a year now and at the very beginning I tried to seal them with just rubber against the rim bead area. I ended up having lots of slow leaks when the tire was flexing around and concluded that I would have to use a lot of sealant to have them eventually seal so instead I went with a split tube method.
I did experiment with wide gorilla tape that was placed from rim edge to rim edge where the tire had tape between it and the rim without direct contact for the tire to the rim. I found that the gorilla tape is too sticky and difficult to get into place without crimps around the bead area. Those crimps usually resulted in slow leaks, just like the bare rim.
Wide tape that is easier to get in place and doesn't leave crimps or other leak prone areas might be more successful.
I built up a Clownshoe wheelset for the same Husker and Escalator tires and opted for split tube directly without messing around with other methods. I will be running low pressures on the Clownshoe wheelset for the winter so small burps and slow leaks with a ton of sealant was something I wanted to avoid.
I am assuming that you are using Tyvek tape only in order to save weight and that maybe you were able to get it for little or no cost. I really like the gorilla tape and I ran it all the way to the outside of the rim (trimming off excess on outside after pushing it down into the bead area). I've tried tape that is more slick and haven't liked the results. I just put new tape on mine last week because I drilled out some additional holes last week. It airs up and seals perfectly. I have absolutely no issues as mentioned in the earlier post about "crimps" in the tape in the bead area but I pull the tape extremely tight.
Originally Posted by Gizzard75
I use these down to below 2 psi at times during the winter with no issues.
After your "Stan's shake" make sure you lay the wheel horizontal (I set mine on my soapy water bucket) as it allows the stans to settle to the tire/rim interface. Visit it about 4 times with 15 minute intervals to give it another shake and set it back horizontal on the opposite side. I've had great luck doing HuDu's and Escalators on Marge Lites and Rolling Darryls.
I'll second that... this is what gave me trouble first off. What I did is take a hot-glue gun and filled the suckers up. Worked perfectly.
Originally Posted by ozzybmx
Thanks everyone for the help! I cant wait to leave work to get back at it-
Dont think the tyvek tape is the right stuff for the job. Got home wrapped it all around the outside of the rim and aired it up- getting better at the bead snapping- soaped it up and it was leaking in one spot on the bead and in just about every rim hole- too much. I pulled it all off - tyvek tape sucks to remove btw, tears very easily.
Split tube or Gorilla tape?? Pro's and Con's... I assume that the gorilla tape is lighter and the split tube is easier- which method is more robust?
I have the tubeless valves so really I am going to go with gorilla tape- although I would prefer schrader valves over prestra... blah going gorilla- thanks again for all your help!
After reading the thread better I think 8898 tape instead of gorilla- for now though I am going to put the tube back in so I can freakin ride my bike!