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  1. #101
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    It took me about 5 goes.... 5 times i had to put the tubes back in to go for a ride.

    Its alright for us now as we know what works, but for a noob to tubeless fat rims it can easily take a few attempts. I thought i was a tubeless guru of MTB wheels (tubeless on all bikes since 2008) people used to give me bizarre rim & tyre combos to make tubeless as they had failed but the fat rims still stumped me.... also the time consumed with the failed attempts was massive.
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  2. #102
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    Plug those jigging holes...

    ...if your rim has them. Don't count on the tape to do the job; if the tape creeps just a little bit you'll have a helluva leak!

    RE filler for same; I've used hot-melt glue, RTV silicone, 5-min 'poxy and JB Weld. All work just fine; even went to the trouble of using microballoon once but what's a couple of grams saved on a fatbike?

    I'd even use matchsticks and Gorilla Glue if they were handy (might just try that the next time).

    Just did another Large Marge ghetto-style (Gorilla tape) but somebody had absconded with my full roll of wide Gorilla tape so I used one wrap of 1" wide Gorilla over the nipple holes and taped the rest with electrical tape; worked just fine. The type of tape used doesn't seem to be all that critical as long as it's airtight, moisture-resistant and has a good quality adhesive.

    The main key for ghetto nirvana is to be sure the tire has been pre-shaped either by running it on a rim with a tube or just letting a tube expand it while off the rim (an afternoon in the backseat of a car parked out in the sun will speed this along)

    Also over-filling with whatever kind of sealant you're using helps; the excess can be sucked out later.
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  3. #103
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    I have Holy Rolling D's and Husker Du's front and rear. Last spring, I had some time when I wouldn't be riding, so I went for it. I used the folded foam in the middle and gorilla tape on my first one and the damn thing sealed right up- first try! I didn't get the gorilla tape into the bead sockets either. Sweet! I went for my front wheel and have tried damn near every version on here- foam, no foam, gorilla tape in the bead sockets, not in the bead sockets, stans tape in the bead sockets, gorilla tape across the middle, door sealing foam (the tubular foam strips) with gorilla tape, tying a belt around it, tube in with seated beads for a few days, and probably a few other combinations and nothing would do the trick. I've had a tube in it ever since. I plan on going at it again in the next few weeks, but it's nothing as easy as the myriad of rim/tire/ghetto/26/29/700c setups I've done on "skinny" rims. I've not resorted to using the aerosol can method mostly because I want to be able to duplicate the process and not rely on that "extreme" method.
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  4. #104
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    I guess I didn't have any issues. I looked at the different methods being used and decided how I wanted to approach it. I have played with some different tapes and foam and have what I am comfortable with. It seems that those who don't want to use foam struggle more than those who do. Some of the struggles I have read about recently are caused by: not plugging the holes in the rim, using just the rim strip with no tape, no sealant, and experimenting with various tapes.

  5. #105
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    Fatbike Tubeless - YouTube

    1. Anyone see something wrong with this method?
    2. Any idea what MM rims these are?

    I'm considering doing this on my 80mm RD's.
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  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armyballer View Post
    Fatbike Tubeless - YouTube

    1. Anyone see something wrong with this method?
    2. Any idea what MM rims these are?

    I'm considering doing this on my 80mm RD's.
    I believe they are 70mm rims he is using and I have no idea why he is going through all that work on a tubeless ready rim. All that is needed for that rim is one wrap of tape and blow the silly thing up.. As far as the method, there are people using all different variations of basically the same thing.

  7. #107
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by Armyballer View Post
    Fatbike Tubeless - YouTube

    1. Anyone see something wrong with this method?
    2. Any idea what MM rims these are?

    I'm considering doing this on my 80mm RD's.
    It's a method that works but a few comments. First, instead of using soap and water to seat the tire I like to use some Stans (sealant) which helps once the tire is seated to seal the bead of the tire. Second, I like putting the Stans (sealant) directly into the tire before inflating the tire. Third, pumping the tire up with pressure on the bottom of the tire can deform the tire slightly making it a little harder for the air to fill the tire.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I have Holy Rolling D's and Husker Du's front and rear. Last spring, I had some time when I wouldn't be riding, so I went for it. I used the folded foam in the middle and gorilla tape on my first one and the damn thing sealed right up- first try! I didn't get the gorilla tape into the bead sockets either. Sweet! I went for my front wheel and have tried damn near every version on here- foam, no foam, gorilla tape in the bead sockets, not in the bead sockets, stans tape in the bead sockets, gorilla tape across the middle, door sealing foam (the tubular foam strips) with gorilla tape, tying a belt around it, tube in with seated beads for a few days, and probably a few other combinations and nothing would do the trick. I've had a tube in it ever since. I plan on going at it again in the next few weeks, but it's nothing as easy as the myriad of rim/tire/ghetto/26/29/700c setups I've done on "skinny" rims. I've not resorted to using the aerosol can method mostly because I want to be able to duplicate the process and not rely on that "extreme" method.
    Hudus are loosey goosey after a decent amount of use so it's not going to air up easy, adding foam is good but it also decreases the surface area where the tape attaches to the rim (too little and pressure pops it off causing endless cutout/spokehole leaks etc.) I have an ongoing battle with my rear wheel ;-)
    Would rather air mine up with a floor pump but that means you generally have to use foam (amount of foam required can change as tires change/age).
    I grab the kitchen blow torch and can of butane and roast any tire giving me grief, it's easy if you seat one side with a tube then remove tube add valve then blow that ****er up!

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    Oh come on ozzy. Most of the fails are people who aren't doing what works. They are trying to skimp and then it doesn't work and it goes down in the books as a fail.
    Doing what everyone else does... does nothing for innovation. Tyvek tape should work and it should be superior to all the other tapes out there. I am doing something wrong, just not sure what it is. It probably comes down to a poor taping job.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I believe they are 70mm rims he is using and I have no idea why he is going through all that work on a tubeless ready rim. All that is needed for that rim is one wrap of tape and blow the silly thing up.. As far as the method, there are people using all different variations of basically the same thing.
    So with mine being 80mm....I doubt the tube he uses will work on mine. Yea I know this isn't the lightest method out there but I like the idea of it much better then using all 3m tape. I could care less if my fatbike weights 30pds or 40pds.
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  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by DubzOxford View Post
    Does this method work for folding bead tires or only wire bead?
    I know this is an old post, but just re-reading the thread.

    I've used folding larry & endo, and both folding & wire 45 nrth hudu's all with success. The wire-bead huhu did require sitting on a rim with a tube for over a week to get the bead straight. It pops on nicely now though.

  12. #112
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    All this talk about tape method failures is making my ears bleed. I've used tape on my old MTB wheels and it works great but for the Fatties, I'm sold on the split tube method. I've set up two bikes with split tube and the absolute longest it took me to do a tire was 20mins. That was on a Rolling Darryl. The Marge Lites aired up in a heartbeat.
    I've also unmounted/remounted the tires with the split tubes and had no issues getting them to air-up.

    I pre-fill the tire with Stans, then take the valve core out and use a compressor to push in a constant air stream. Generous brushing of the tire and split tube with a soapy water rag helps make the seal and allows the tire to slide to the bead socket quickly. Once it's holding some air, pop in the valve core and use a hand pump to take it from a couple PSI to about 25PSI and watch as the tire moves into the bead socket with a satisfying "POP". A strap around the tire really helped with the wider Rolling Darryls. After set-up, I take a scissors and slice off the excess tube to within 3/16 of the rim for a nice look.

    No worries about making sure all the holes are filled or loosing a bunch of stans into them as they seal up. In fact, the tire-bead to split-tube interface is so tight, I've seen little, if any, stans come through and am confident it will be there ready to seal up holes caused by thorns in my area.

    I've used this on HuDu's and Escalators (folding).

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizzard75 View Post
    Doing what everyone else does... does nothing for innovation. Tyvek tape should work and it should be superior to all the other tapes out there. I am doing something wrong, just not sure what it is. It probably comes down to a poor taping job.
    I think that the low coefficient of friction for Tyvek might be a problem. I also think that the best tubeless solutions for fat bikes only exist on the internet.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizzard75 View Post
    Doing what everyone else does... does nothing for innovation. Tyvek tape should work and it should be superior to all the other tapes out there. I am doing something wrong, just not sure what it is. It probably comes down to a poor taping job.
    Gizzard, I agree with you on trying new stuff. I haven't tried Tyvek tape. I have tried a few other, what I will call slick tapes, and I haven't liked the way they look after being in the tire for a while with sealant. They don't seem to stay sealed where it overlaps very well.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    Gizzard, I agree with you on trying new stuff. I haven't tried Tyvek tape. I have tried a few other, what I will call slick tapes, and I haven't liked the way they look after being in the tire for a while with sealant. They don't seem to stay sealed where it overlaps very well.
    The overlap near the rim edge is the exact spot that I had the most leaking. I dont think that Tyvek would be a robust enough tape after working with it the past few nights- I like the idea of it though!

    After doing more research I think the best solution for me is going to be a split tube set up. Once again thanks for everyone's input!

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizzard75 View Post
    Dont think the tyvek tape is the right stuff for the job. Got home wrapped it all around the outside of the rim and aired it up- getting better at the bead snapping- soaped it up and it was leaking in one spot on the bead and in just about every rim hole- too much. I pulled it all off - tyvek tape sucks to remove btw, tears very easily.

    Split tube or Gorilla tape?? Pro's and Con's... I assume that the gorilla tape is lighter and the split tube is easier- which method is more robust?

    I have the tubeless valves so really I am going to go with gorilla tape- although I would prefer schrader valves over prestra... blah going gorilla- thanks again for all your help!

    After reading the thread better I think 8898 tape instead of gorilla- for now though I am going to put the tube back in so I can freakin ride my bike!
    Gizzard, did you try the Gorilla tape? I have tires with Gorilla tape that have lasted for a long time with no deterioration of the tape. I know it's not the lightest but it works well for me. I run the tape well past the outside of the rim while pulling it VERY tight (step on the bottom of rim as you pull the tape). I push the tape down into the bead area with something smooth and then trim the tape along the outside of the rim.

    I agree with you on the schrader valves instead of presta. They are sturdier and easier to work with. The motorcycle shop in town sells the BikeMaster brand of chrome tubeless stems and they have worked well.

    I do use foam as well which I think helps with tire staying seated and airing up.

    My Clownshoes look like this before tape.


    My choice of tape to be seen from the outside. Also, I drilled a lot of extra holes.


    Extra Firm self-sticking foam. I trim it a little after applying it.

  17. #117
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    I haven't decided to go any route just yet; I patched the original tube and threw it back in so I could enjoy some gravel in this fine Indian Summer!- I have some house work to do this weekend so I might have to run to the home improvement store and get supplies... I already have tubeless valves so it makes sense to go the tape route. I thought I read somewhere that foam wasnt needed with clownshoes but if it makes it easier then I am all for it. I guess my main objective is avoiding flats not so much saving weight (not that 10-20 grams of foam is what will be holding me back on a climb!)

  18. #118
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    Gizzard, you couldn't drag me back to using tubes. The foam works although it can be tough getting the tire up on it for the first time. I use the Ace brand Super Firm Sponge Tape, 3/8" (T) x 3/4" (W). My setup isn't the lightest but I do put a lot of miles on my bike without issues.

  19. #119
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    Good job on those rims Alphazz... a bit of time has went into that drilling. I like it !
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  20. #120
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    Thanks ozzy. Yeah, my son was giving me a hard time about spending too much time drilling, cutting, and grinding on that rim. I think it looks good from the outside.


  21. #121
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    As long as mum didn't hear him.... you don't want two of them joining forces and having a whinge

    Turned out well.... weight saved too ?
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  22. #122
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    ozzy, I wish I could say I cut a pound out of rim, but I can't. Close to 6 oz. though.

  23. #123
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    Going to give this a try as a double puncture yesterday annoyed me greatly, and I was in the house fixing it!!

    Has anyone in the uk found the 3M 8898 tape anywhere else than Ozzy's link to Farnells?? They have a minimum order limit

    I am also tempted by American Classic valve stems to match my Red & Black theme on the bike!!

    TUBELESS|VALVES
    Last edited by Flying_Scotsman; 10-05-2013 at 06:05 AM.

  24. #124
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    I don't like having presta valves on my fat bike, but I do like those American Classic valve stems.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    I don't like having presta valves on my fat bike, but I do like those American Classic valve stems.
    You might like these:


    949 racing black anodized aluminum valve

    Also available in grey and silver. No red {sigh}
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  26. #126
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    Wadester, I've meant to put the 949 valves on my bike but I have been happy with the steel ones I use. I have noticed that the 949 valves are only 8 grams and my chrome steel ones are 18 grams. I am making the switch the next chance I get.

  27. #127
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    Fail

    When I got home from work last night this is what I found:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_7420.jpg
    By the time I got home from my road ride this afternoon the front had gone flat too. The tire bead is still tight on the rim's bead hook, so that's good news, but air and sealant had gotten under my rim tape and and leaked out through the rim holes (and I have plenty of those to leak out of). They held air for a while like this with the Stan's sealing up all those leaks, but I know from working with standard width rims that your sealant set-up has failed if you have any sealant coming out through the spoke holes, which is pretty much the same issue.

    I really thought I was on to something, looks like I'm going to have to reevaluate. I tried to basically follow Ozzy's method, but I'm running the Holy Rolling Darryl rather than the Large Marge.

    Here's what I did:

    I went with pipe insulating foam for 1 3/4" pipe. Its closed-cell foam.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-fch_9241.jpg

    I cut it in half. Less than $3 worth covered both wheels almost perfectly with just a few inches left over from my 6' strip.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-fch_9249.jpg

    And spread it out flat over the bottom of the rim it ends up being just about perfect at 55mm wide. Fit pretty nice and took up a lot of volume, for only 18 grams per wheel!
    Tubeless Tuesday.-fch_9253.jpg

    I got the right tape, 49mm wide, so I figured I could use just 2 strips, one on the left, on on the right with about 15mm of overlap in the middle.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-fch_9246.jpg

    But I had a hard time getting a smooth finish on the rims, you can see a major fail in the lower right. I eventually tore all this tape off and started over. I got a smother finish the second time around, but not without a few minor wrinkles at the rim/tire bead interface.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-fch_9256.jpg

    So OzzyBMX, how did you get such a smooth finish with your tape?!?

    I'm thinking of trying again with 3 strips of tape. The middle one would just run down the middle of the foam strip, since the foam is about 55mm wide. But maybe it would be a better surface for the two edge tape strips to adhere to, and perhaps also give the middle foam more of a firm surface. That's probably worth 10 grams. But without a really smooth tape job on the sides like Ozzy has, I don't see how it could work.

    The other spot I could see air and sealant getting out is around the valve core. On the front wheel I tried using one from an old tube with a nice wide circle of rubber around it to spread out the compressive force. On the rear I used a American Classic valve core, and coupled it with a small sheet (1.5"x2.5") of hard, clear plastic I cut out of some packaging to help spread out the force of the valve stem over more of the surface of the foam. But perhaps this is the wrong approach... perhaps I should try more of a plug style valve stem, like the new WTB valves?
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  28. #128
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    ^^^i
    I like those.

    I thought I would update my tooblessness. I thought it time to put my winter tires back on. I did the front 120 Bud on a holy Darryl up just as I had in the past. Fancy duct tape pattern for the visual, then foam stuck to the backside of that tape, a clear filament tape to hold it down, and a split tube. I had a wicked ***** of a time getting it to seat, even with a tube around the outside and an air compressor, but it did go eventually. Unhappy with it though, the split tube just didn't let it seat as well as I have had it in the past, and it has the dreaded hop...but holding air.

    So on the back I decided to go without the tube. I did the same fancy tape, foam on that, then Gorilla tape. It took 3 runs, one on each side on the bead shelf, and one down the middle. I put a tube in, seated one side, put in my homemade valve stem. i dribbled stans around the bead instead of soapy water, and it went right up, boom, no problem, the bead actually popped in. It was running rounder than any fat tire I've had in. Awesome. Did the normal thing, shake, soap, check, shake, soap, check. The holes and spoke holes were a bit leaky, but it will seal.. Next morning, flat, do my thing, shake it. That night, flat. Same thing. 4 day fatty tour coming up in 5 days and I can't hold air more than 12 hours. I kept at it every morning and every night to no avail, but decided to go for the tour, carry a tube (obviously), and just keep an eye on it and air it up when needed. It wasn't needed. The morning the big ride was to start, that silly bastard of a tire was sitting there chock full of air, ready to ride some trails fully loaded. Still a bit nervous on it I ran a little higher pressure than I normally would the first day, 15 or better probably, but by the second day I was sure it was all set, dropped my pressures and the Cush factor held strong through hot days and cold nights for the whole ride, and my stoopid spare toob just weighed me down.

    Go ride your bike.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1381014831.461479.jpg


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    Last edited by Schott; 10-06-2013 at 08:12 AM.

  29. #129
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    Well I have found tesa 4289 strapping tape. its only 25mm wide but I got 66 meters on the roll so I can do a few wraps, was on £12.50 from eBay.

    Now for foam, like the look of the pipe lagging, no need for multiple layers, might grab a couple of lengths and then I am ready to rock n roll!

  30. #130
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    Fishman, I think your method looks good. I think even your plastic around the valve stem is a good idea since you are running some thick foam down the middle.

    A couple of ideas:

    Are you putting the plastic between the foam and the tape? That's where I would put it, taping over the top of the plastic (hopefully the edges of the plastic won't be too rough on the tape).

    Second, don't be afraid to stand on your rim while pulling the tape VERY tight, it helps to prevent wrinkles.

    Third, I really like gorilla tape. After taking mine apart, I've not found any areas where the tape seams are failing. I have with other tapes.

    Fourth, I agree with you on the strip down the middle for more overlap. 15mm is probably not enough with it being over the top of the foam.

    Fifth, Schott is right, use Stans around the bead instead of soapy water.

    Sixth, you are correct, Ozzy did a great job on his tape. He's probably a really strong guy who pulled the tape extremely tight.

  31. #131
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    Ozzy / Alphazz, what do you think the chances of inflating the tire (or Tyre to me ) without the foam?? I was thinking of popping the tyre onto the bead with a tube first like you have described Ozzy, taking the tube out, pouring in the stan's then compressor onto it and try to do it that way??

    Or even as I have seen done in another thread, a bit propane into it and light it like the 4x4 boys do??

    I am running Marge Lite's and 3.8 knard's so not got 5 inches of rubber to deal with!!

  32. #132
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    Foam is pointless if your using propane and your very unlikely to need it if you have a compressor.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Ozzy / Alphazz, what do you think the chances of inflating the tire (or Tyre to me ) without the foam?? I was thinking of popping the tyre onto the bead with a tube first like you have described Ozzy, taking the tube out, pouring in the stan's then compressor onto it and try to do it that way??

    Or even as I have seen done in another thread, a bit propane into it and light it like the 4x4 boys do??

    I am running Marge Lite's and 3.8 knard's so not got 5 inches of rubber to deal with!!
    It's not just getting the tire to seat initially, which has an art to it, it's making sure the tire will stay seated at the low pressures that some of us want to run.

  34. #134
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    Re: Tubeless Tuesday.

    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    Foam is pointless if your using propane and your very unlikely to need it if you have a compressor.
    I found this to be not true. I did one clownshoe without foam and one with foam and the one without was a major pain in the a s s to get even started inflating. Ended up taking it apart and adding foam.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    Foam is pointless if your using propane and your very unlikely to need it if you have a compressor.
    Ok, no foam it is then!! Just need to wait for the bits to turn up!!

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Ok, no foam it is then!! Just need to wait for the bits to turn up!!
    Do let us know how that works for you. (Pictures are nice.)

  37. #137
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    I haven't done clown shoes but everything is going to seat with propane and a lighter and if you seat one side with a tube it's got to be a seriously loose tire to not go up with a compressor. I don't run under 5psi very often but I get the impression most people are using foam for help with initial inflation, (because they only have access to a floor pump - like me) you would need to use a denser foam (like posted above) for it to offer any benefit beyond seating the bead.

  38. #138
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    Tight tape.... pull tight until your hands bleed

    You'll need the tightness to stop the sealant and air getting below your tape.
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  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Ozzy / Alphazz, what do you think the chances of inflating the tire (or Tyre to me ) without the foam?? I was thinking of popping the tyre onto the bead with a tube first like you have described Ozzy, taking the tube out, pouring in the stan's then compressor onto it and try to do it that way??
    I have recently got a HuDu onto a marge lite but using a tube then taking it out, then relied on gravity to help the other bead on. The tyre was in there for about a week at 25psi beforehand so it was in the general shape it needed to be in.

    Im looking forward to Stans fatbike rims !
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  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schott View Post
    ^^^i
    ... I had a wicked ***** of a time getting it to seat, even with a tube around the outside and an air compressor, but it did go eventually. Unhappy with it though, the split tube just didn't let it seat as well as I have had it in the past, and it has the dreaded hop...but holding air....
    I've used split tubes on several tires now and after airing it up with a compressor, I use a hand pump to slowly take to up to 25 or 30lbs and the beads have popped-in every time, both sides. Then I immediately take it down to riding a pressure of 8-10 lbs. No wheel hop and once seated on a split tube, that tire is not coming off regardless of how low the pressure. That tire stays seated tight-tight in the bead groove and I have found it is actually quite tough to break it off the bead when it's time to change the Stan's.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjdog800 View Post
    I've used split tubes on several tires now and after airing it up with a compressor, I use a hand pump to slowly take to up to 25 or 30lbs and the beads have popped-in every time, both sides. Then I immediately take it down to riding a pressure of 8-10 lbs. No wheel hop and once seated on a split tube, that tire is not coming off regardless of how low the pressure. That tire stays seated tight-tight in the bead groove and I have found it is actually quite tough to break it off the bead when it's time to change the Stan's.
    Yep, that's been my experience too. Once it's seated and holding, I sneak it up a little at a time, watching the low spot, and as soon as it seats, drop it down.

    Bead "lock" and air retention are fantastic.
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  42. #142
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    I tried all the other methods first to no avail. Originally I was trying to set up BFL's on Clownshoes. The bike now has NATE's on Clownshoes. The tire/rim bead interface just has too much gap. The split tube makes up the difference. Not only did the tires mount easily, they aired up with a hand pump. I have set the pressure from 4 psi to 15 psi and no leaks, no loss of pressure. As soon as the new bike arrives I will do it again with Bud/Lou on a Shoe.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    Tight tape.... pull tight until your hands bleed

    You'll need the tightness to stop the sealant and air getting below your tape.
    I don't know if this has been mentioned but I use a hairdryer to heat the tape ever so slightly, it just helps it to conform and make it a little more pliable at least for fat Stans and tapes like it.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcappy View Post
    The tire/rim bead interface just has too much gap. The split tube makes up the difference.
    Just curious. I still have a lot of bead play, even with the tube. Are you running foam too?

    I found that a cheapo rubber 26" rim strip around the outside of the tire, settles the tire inward a touch, all around, and allows for a more uniform bead seating. It's allowed me to do them without the foam, easily, but with a compressor. Still nowhere near tight enough to seat with a floor pump.

    Wondering if your floor pump is about 6' high
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  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I don't know if this has been mentioned but I use a hairdryer to heat the tape ever so slightly, it just helps it to conform and make it a little more pliable at least for fat Stans and tapes like it.
    This sounds like a good idea for smoother tape and for adhesion.

    I tried all the other methods first to no avail. Originally I was trying to set up BFL's on Clownshoes.
    I've ran a couple different BFL's on Clownshoes this summer with no issues.

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I don't know if this has been mentioned but I use a hairdryer to heat the tape ever so slightly, it just helps it to conform and make it a little more pliable at least for fat Stans and tapes like it.
    Do you warm it up before you apply it or do you do it after its applied to smooth out the wrinkles like shrink-wrap?
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  47. #147
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    Split tube, Holy Rolling Daryls and Husker Du's

    Finally got this setup to work. The split tube is the key.

    1) Picked up a 24x 2.4-2.75 presta tube (QTubes)
    2) Pink foam from Home Depot for building up the center channel

    Foam tape Folded in 1/2 and wrapped around (Surly rim strip in place):
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2952.jpg
    Foam taped into place with piece of 3" Gorilla Tape:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2953.jpg
    24x2.4-2.75 QTube inflated lightly into place:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2954.jpg
    Tube Split. You have to take a wet rag/ towel and clean all of the powder residue out of the tube:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2955.jpg
    Still wouldn't seat up- you can see how big the gap is.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2956.jpg
    A second layer of foam- this time, laid flat across the rim, taped in place above the valve hole, and then trimmed to just inside where the bead socket starts (top of channel):
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2959.jpg
    Putting the tire back on was a bit challenging and required some tire-lever assistance while pulling down on the edge of the split tube to keep it from folding under, but once on, it aired right up with no issues.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2960.jpg
    Sealant (my own mix) inserted and split tube trimmed.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_2961.jpg
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  48. #148
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    I'm sure split-tube is functional, but to me it offers no advantages. It weighs more than a 2.5-3.0 mtb tube (without sealant), is harder to set-up than tubes and harder to repair in the field. I understand if you ride in a thorny area, but for me its taped or bust.
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  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Finally got this setup to work. The split tube is the key.

    1) Picked up a 24x 2.4-2.75 presta tube (QTubes)
    2) Pink foam from Home Depot for building up the center channel

    Foam tape Folded in 1/2 and wrapped around (Surly rim strip in place):
    Foam taped into place with piece of 3" Gorilla Tape:
    24x2.4-2.75 QTube inflated lightly into place:
    Tube Split. You have to take a wet rag/ towel and clean all of the powder residue out of the tube:
    Still wouldn't seat up- you can see how big the gap is.
    A second layer of foam- this time, laid flat across the rim, taped in place above the valve hole, and then trimmed to just inside where the bead socket starts (top of channel):
    Putting the tire back on was a bit challenging and required some tire-lever assistance while pulling down on the edge of the split tube to keep it from folding under, but once on, it aired right up with no issues.
    Sealant (my own mix) inserted and split tube trimmed.
    Good pictorial! It didn't look like you were using soapy water on the tube & tire. For me, that made all the difference when trying to get it aired-up. Did it foam-less too.

    Once trimmed, the weight penalty of having a tube-rim-strip is not any worse than most tape jobs. Especially Gorilla tape.

  50. #150
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    I tried soapy water when I had just one layer of foam in, also tried running a strap around the tube to air it up, but neither worked- dunno if you're on RD's, but the center channel just swallows up the tire bead and, for me, I couldn't overcome that gap with anything other than more foam.

    My rear rim was done with foam and gorilla tape, but this front one wouldn't seat up with the same technique. Split tube did the trick.

    We don't have a ton of thorns, some goat heads and the like, but the bigger issue for me has been pinch flats with the tubes at low psi. At this rate, the split tube can't weigh much more than two runs of gorilla tape (which you need to do if you're trying to get it up into the bead sockets) and, most importantly, it worked.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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