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  1. #476
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    This thread reminds me, I need to do up a fresh batch of sealant & fill the tires again before I get stuck out somewhere with a flat.
    Riding.....

  2. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    FWIW, I've posted this elsewhere and I think someone posted it somewhere in this thread, but I've used split tube, gorilla tape, the 3M similar-to-stans tape, and nothing has worked as well as Leading Edge Tape. This stuff is bomber. 4", trim to fit. Can't say enough good things about it.

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3323
    I was in the same boat and failed multiple attempts until I picked up some of that stuff. Finally succeeded and only lost a little over 1 psi over a week.

  3. #478
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    Just thought I would update all on the success of this set-up.


    They held air better than almost any other tubeless set-up I have tried. (Original No-Tubes strips, Stans wheels etc) I almost never had to put air into them. I was even off the bike for two weeks and when I came back, the pressures were right where I left them 14 days ago. I must say I was pretty surprised.

    I just replaced the tires with new 120 TPI HuDu's last night.

    - Put on new tire
    - Pump up tube to initially set bead
    - Pull tube out
    - Pump up with compressor, POP!
    - Put three scoops of Stans, do the Stans shake.
    - Checked on tires this morning and still holding 30 PSI

    Time to drop the pressures and go for a ride.

    I think this hybrid tubeless set-up is about perfect so far.



    Quote Originally Posted by ZipMTB View Post
    After reading through every thread, posting, musing, etc. I decided to give it a go.

    Things I learned:
    - HuDu with wire bead is a PITA
    - HuDu with 120 tpi - super easy
    - HuDu with 120 tpi has VERY thin casing. Long term durability seems questionable.

    Anyway, I wanted a compromise between the tubeless benefits for a fattie (rolling resistance and flats) and what ever I could do to minimize weight. I ended up with a hybrid Gorilla Tape and 3M tape. It looks like I was able to do both with about a 1/2 pound loss in each wheel.

    First I cut the Gorilla Tape (GT) to about 1/2 inch. Then placed one strip all the way around each side to build up the wheel a little and get a good seal for the Rim Strip.
    Attachment 877670

    Then I ran one strip of the 3M tape around each side. I stretched it as tight as I could. Here is one side done.
    Attachment 877671

    To help with the stretching, I placed a piece of PVC pipe between the spokes and stepped on it while I stretched the 3M tape around.
    Attachment 877672

    Finally, I stretched on more strip of 3M tape right down the middle to seal up the seam of the two outside strips. It looked like over time this would be a place to leak. And at about 4 grams per rotation, well worth the insurance.
    Attachment 877673

    After that, pretty standard. Put tire on, aired up with tube. Pop Pop!

    Break one side, remove tube and place Stans valves.

    Turn wheel so broken bead is facing down and blow up with compressor. Pop, Pop!

    Even holds air without and Stans.

    When all was said and done, I saved about 150 gr. per wheel. So, not a huge weight savings, but then that was not the primary goal. Now to go ride and see how she feels.


    Thanks to all for posting up what worked and didn't. First try, about 30 min per tire and 100% success.
    Zip

  4. #479
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    thanks zipmtb
    that's some great info there and looks super easy with the pics
    nice neat job well done
    cheers
    ip

  5. #480
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    Just did a tubeless conversion for the first time... A couple of hiccups, but seems to have gone pretty smoothly all things considered. I'm going to add some of the details that I wish I had when I started.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-pugs-dillinger-2.jpg
    Front Tire: Holy Rolling Darryl, Dillinger 5.
    Split-tube size: 24"x2.75. I had a good 0.75" of extra tube to cut off when I finished, so this was plenty big.
    Rim Strip: 2" wide retro-reflective tape from Amazon.
    Rim: Couldn't find wide 24" Presta tubes, so drilled it out to accept a scraeder valve. 7/32" drill bit, and a circular file to debur and slightly enlarge the hole.
    Foam: DEFINITELY needed the 2 thin layers of foam. the tire wouldn't seat even with a cargo strap around the tire without the foam. I used 2 layers of fairly thin foam underlayment left over from putting in my laminate floor (it was in the house). Instant tire seating without ANY trouble at all; no cargo strap needed.
    Bead seated at ~30PSI.
    Stans: Ended up with ~4oz in the tire. Meant to have more, but after the initial failure I lost several oz.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-pugs-dillinger-3.jpg
    Rear tire: Marge Lite + D4 (Wire bead)
    Same retro-reflective rim strip as the front.
    24"x1.9" Tube. There was just exactly the right amount of excess materiel, didn't need to trim any off.
    I just put the 2 foam strips in after my experience on the front wheel. Instant sealing, no trouble at all.
    Bead popped at ~20PSI.
    Stans: Poured ~3oz in the tire.

    So far, tires have held ~30PSI for the last 4 hours with no trouble. I went riding around the lawn and up and down our little hill with them to help slosh the stans around. We'll see in the morning, but things are looking good so far.

  6. #481
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    Looks like success on the rear tire, and not quite enough sealant on the front. The Rear tire was 20PSI this morning, so seems to have sealed well. The front tire was down to 15, and when I looked in between the split-tube and the tire, I could see a little bit of bubbling near the top. I did the shake/roll again and it's slowed, but is still bubbling a bit. Probably need to add more sealant; I've ordered an injector so I can top it off without needing to break the bead.

    EDIT: After about an hour of riding around the lawn with my girls, it looks like the bubbling has stopped. It may just be because I lowered the pressure to ~9psi, though. We'll see how stable it is. I think I'll still probably add some more sealant to be safe.

  7. #482
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    Just to throw in my own experience - I had good luck with Marge Lites, split tube with 24x2.7" tubes, and Vee Rubber Snow Shoes. I have since switched the rear to a Knard, still with split tube - the Knard was a lot harder to get seated, but I finally did with just a floor pump. I recently changed the front wheel over, using no tube and just a clown shoe rim strip with a HuDu 120tpi folding bead - this has been perfect, no burping, no leaking, no issues whatever in over 100 miles of single track riding. I've added air once. I was surprised how well that worked. Pretty easy to air up, and super simple. Will give that a shot for the rear wheel when I switch over to winter tires soon.

  8. #483
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  9. #484
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    In the tradition of Tubeless Tuesday, I switch from my summer setup Hudu/Knard to my winter setup Bud/Nate. I forgot how much I don't like the process.

    1) Dismount old tires, discard old split tube, clean sealant off hands and anywhere else it dripped.

    2) There is not a snowballs-chance-in-hell that I can get either my 27tpi Nate or but to mount up tubeless using only a split tube. I utilize a thin pack foam from work, cut it to 6" width, then fold it over, and wrap it around the entire rim.

    3) Mount the tube, air it up, center it on the rim, and then cut it.

    4) Use a brush to remove majority of powder, then rag to remove the rest.

    5) Mount tire on rim, add sealant.

    6) Do the stans dance.

    7) Pull tire beads as far out as I can.

    8) Inflate with floor pump to 20psi.

    9) Put wheel and the floor, sit on wheel, and bounce up and down while rotating to ensure beads are seated evenly.

    10) Let setup sit overnight @ 20psi.

    11) Mount wheels on bike and spin to ensure there are no major hops or wobbles.

    12) Trim excess split tube material.

    13) Deflate to riding pressure.

    14) Reflect on how nice it would be to have a tubeless ready wheelset.

    15) Fondle the wife.

    16) Take a nap.

  10. #485
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    I hope you never have a blow out at number 9!!!!!

  11. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcappy View Post
    I hope you never have a blow out at number 9!!!!!
    But a blowout #15 would be acceptable and even wanted.
    And I love beer!!

  12. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    But a blowout #15 would be acceptable and even wanted.
    As long as no sealant gets in the eyes.

  13. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    1) --14) (No sleep required ?)

    15) Fondle the wife.

    16) Take a nap.
    Never met a woman yet that didn't tire me out one way or another either


    Fat Biker

  14. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    As long as no sealant gets in the eyes.
    Oh great! Thanks a lot for that correlation. Now I will have to wear gloves when handling a bottle of Stans!!

  15. #490
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    Tubeless Wednesday.

    My attempt at Tubeless Tuesday on Wednesday.

    Bike: Salsa BG
    Rim: Holy Darryl
    Tire: 45NRTH

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_002.jpg
    1. Get crap @ LBS, 2 tubes, big bottle of Stans.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_001.jpg
    2. Pull Tire/Tube off Rim.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_003.jpg
    3. Mount up 24 x2.4-2.75 Kenda Q Tubes and split them.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_005.jpg
    4. Poke small hole in tube, feed in valve stem.

    5. Do a trial run, get bead to seat on un-Stans'ed tire. It holds air!

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_008.jpg
    5. Pull valve stem, feed in 4-5 Stans cups. (I later ended up just peeling a bit of tire from the rim and pouring the Stans in.)

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_007.jpg
    6. Pump and slosh like a mad mutherfooker.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wp_20141112_011.jpg
    7. Trim off excess rubber.

    8. Hurry up and wait.

    Notes: I weighed the combo, and the tubeless was actually heavier. Hopefully the tubeless is worth it cause it was 6oz heavier each wheel.

    The rear tire worked flawlessly. The front I didn't do the trial run bead seat step pump to 20+ lbs, and as a result it took a piss load more effort to get the front tire to pump up, and ultimately, a CO2 cartridge.

    I didn't use any Gorilla tape. That may have been a mistake? Dunno.

    No wife fondling required.

    I'll update in the AM.

  16. #491
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    Why didnt you just use the valve stem that was molded into the tube? That way you wouldnt have to poke a hole in your split tube.. Just wondering

  17. #492
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    I'll play even though I actually did this on a sunday:

    Summary: Split tube!

    Materials:

    Surly rolling darryl (1 3/8" holes drilled by yours truly)
    120tpi Surly Bud
    27tpi Surly Nate (stock of course)
    24x2.75 Qtubes w/removable presta valve
    Roll of dish packing foam sheets from home depot (they had underlaymet as well but it was 3x more$)
    Stans
    Blue surly rim strips

    Method:

    -I started out by cutting 6' x 2" strips of the foam packing sheets (folding it didn't work). This was the biggest PIA...until attempting to seat the bead. The foam was real thin so I started with 3 and ended up with 6 layers (attempting to seat after each layer which wasted a lot of time). Note: Try and find thicker foam.
    -split the tube and cleaned the powder out, streched it over the rim/foam
    -Mounted the tire and made sure all the components ended up as they should (split tube even, foam within the bead seats) and sprayed the edges down with soapy water
    -Removed the presta core and used a compressor to seat the bead. The Bud seated well almost right away but the Nate took a lot of attempts. One small section just didn't want to seat. I was getting annoyed so I just put some stans in, pumped it up and ate dinner. When I got back it magically seated itself.

    I think the Nate lost some air but the temperature also dropped 50 degrees (literally) from when I inflated it. I've done 2 rides on it and so far so good!

  18. #493
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    Tubeless Tuesday.

    Use a Stan's injector to install the sealant after the tire is seated.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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    Moonlander

  19. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by daverx1 View Post
    Why didnt you just use the valve stem that was molded into the tube? That way you wouldnt have to poke a hole in your split tube.. Just wondering
    Hmmm...Other than the Q tubes don't have a removable valve core, which I use to add Stans, however given it takes 4 or 5 cap fulls, I may need to invest in one of those syringe things? Actually, I don't really have a good answer.

    We'll see if the damn thing actually works. I didn't use foam filler or Gorilla tape so I hope it holds.

  20. #495
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    I buy Q tubes specifically for split tube because they have removable cores. Didn't know you could buy Q tubes that didn't.

  21. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by WA-CO View Post
    Hmmm...Other than the Q tubes don't have a removable valve core.
    You maybe wanna edit this in an effort to not confuse others?

  22. #497
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    hehe, stans goop, rubber gloves, valve stems and shake it all about like a paint shaker for 3min....

  23. #498
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    Every Q-tube I've used has a removable core.

    The nextie rim I have on the front has been nicer to use so far, no split tube, no gorilla tape, just stans tape to seal the spoke holes, sealant, air, ride.

    I let my rear sealant almost dry up & ended up fixing a flat trailside last week.
    Riding.....

  24. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I let my rear sealant almost dry up & ended up fixing a flat trailside last week.
    With 6 bikes that use stans sealant and living in the desert (Phoenix, AZ) where a sealant recharge only lasts about a month in the summer, I run into this problem all the time. I carry a ziplock bag with 2 (2 oz.) bottles of stans and a tube of super glue (for small tears) and a few time just added a little water from a water bottle or camelback. The particles that seal up any hole are still in the tire, it's just the fluid that acts as a suspension agent dries up and the sealant can't get to the leak. While I've never tired this on my Salsa its worked numerous times on my and other peoples skinny bikes.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 11-13-2014 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Grammer f-up

  25. #500
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    I need to try this!
    Surely easier than getting covered in sealant goop while installing a tube to get out of the woods

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    With 6 bikes that use stans sealant and living in the desert (Phoenix, AZ) where a sealant recharge only lasts about a month in the summer, I run into this problem all the time. I carry a ziplock bag with 2 (2 oz.) bottles of stans and a tube of super glue (for small tears) and a few time just added a little water from a water bottle or camelback. The particles that seal up any hole are still in the tire, it's just the fluid that acts as a suspension agent dries up and the sealant can't get to the leak. While I've never tired this on my Salsa its worked numerous times on my and other peoples skinny bikes.
    Mole
    Riding.....

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