Mtbr's 2016 Winter Biking GearReviews and Roundups

FAT BIKES

WINTER APPAREL

TRAINERS

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  1. #476
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    Tubeless Tuesday.

    Use a Stan's injector to install the sealant after the tire is seated.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Santa Cruz Tallboy
    Moonlander

  2. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by daverx1 View Post
    Why didnt you just use the valve stem that was molded into the tube? That way you wouldnt have to poke a hole in your split tube.. Just wondering
    Hmmm...Other than the Q tubes don't have a removable valve core, which I use to add Stans, however given it takes 4 or 5 cap fulls, I may need to invest in one of those syringe things? Actually, I don't really have a good answer.

    We'll see if the damn thing actually works. I didn't use foam filler or Gorilla tape so I hope it holds.

  3. #478
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    I buy Q tubes specifically for split tube because they have removable cores. Didn't know you could buy Q tubes that didn't.

  4. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by WA-CO View Post
    Hmmm...Other than the Q tubes don't have a removable valve core.
    You maybe wanna edit this in an effort to not confuse others?

  5. #480
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    hehe, stans goop, rubber gloves, valve stems and shake it all about like a paint shaker for 3min....

  6. #481
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    Every Q-tube I've used has a removable core.

    The nextie rim I have on the front has been nicer to use so far, no split tube, no gorilla tape, just stans tape to seal the spoke holes, sealant, air, ride.

    I let my rear sealant almost dry up & ended up fixing a flat trailside last week.

  7. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I let my rear sealant almost dry up & ended up fixing a flat trailside last week.
    With 6 bikes that use stans sealant and living in the desert (Phoenix, AZ) where a sealant recharge only lasts about a month in the summer, I run into this problem all the time. I carry a ziplock bag with 2 (2 oz.) bottles of stans and a tube of super glue (for small tears) and a few time just added a little water from a water bottle or camelback. The particles that seal up any hole are still in the tire, it's just the fluid that acts as a suspension agent dries up and the sealant can't get to the leak. While I've never tired this on my Salsa its worked numerous times on my and other peoples skinny bikes.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 11-13-2014 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Grammer f-up

  8. #483
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    I need to try this!
    Surely easier than getting covered in sealant goop while installing a tube to get out of the woods

    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    With 6 bikes that use stans sealant and living in the desert (Phoenix, AZ) where a sealant recharge only lasts about a month in the summer, I run into this problem all the time. I carry a ziplock bag with 2 (2 oz.) bottles of stans and a tube of super glue (for small tears) and a few time just added a little water from a water bottle or camelback. The particles that seal up any hole are still in the tire, it's just the fluid that acts as a suspension agent dries up and the sealant can't get to the leak. While I've never tired this on my Salsa its worked numerous times on my and other peoples skinny bikes.
    Mole

  9. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by WA-CO View Post
    My attempt at Tubeless Tuesday on Wednesday.

    Bike: Salsa BG
    Rim: Holy Darryl
    Tire: 45 NRTH Dillinger

    I'll update in the AM.
    The 24x2.4-2.75 DID have a removable core. So obviously I could have just split the tube and used them instead of a pair of Stans....Oh well...

    Anyway, today was our first day of with decent snowfall. Dropped down to 10-ish psi. Rode for 2+ hours, both tires appear to be holding air fine.

    The 24x2.4 tube is much much thicker than the 2.1. Had I used that, I doubt it would have worked. I hoped it was going to be this easy. I'm totally surprised it actually was.

  10. #485
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    I had an unexpected incident on my commute home today, and I'm hoping for some advice. I'm running a Dillinger 5 on a RD rim up front, and a Dillinger 4 on a Marge Lite in the rear, both set up split-tube. I was in the street portion of my commute, nothing too weird or bumpy and I suddenly got the strong smell of Stan's. Tires were still holding enough air for me to get home, and when I got there, all I could find were a few of streaks of stans on my front tire, presumably coming from the bead. The weird thing is that I can't have lost too much air; the tire still held 20PSI per my gauge. Is this just business as normal with tubeless, or did I miss something in the setup? It's my first tubeless run, so I'm a little nervous that I'm risking a more serious loss of air in the future...

    Thoughts?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-d5_burp.jpg  


  11. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by evandy View Post
    I had an unexpected incident on my commute home today, and I'm hoping for some advice. I'm running a Dillinger 5 on a RD rim up front, and a Dillinger 4 on a Marge Lite in the rear, both set up split-tube. I was in the street portion of my commute, nothing too weird or bumpy and I suddenly got the strong smell of Stan's. Tires were still holding enough air for me to get home, and when I got there, all I could find were a few of streaks of stans on my front tire, presumably coming from the bead. The weird thing is that I can't have lost too much air; the tire still held 20PSI per my gauge. Is this just business as normal with tubeless, or did I miss something in the setup? It's my first tubeless run, so I'm a little nervous that I'm risking a more serious loss of air in the future...

    Thoughts?
    One thought is that 20 psi (assuming that you had an accurate reading) is pretty high, especially considering the volume of a D5. With your weight and the weight of the bike and equipment and what not, it could be just that under load, it was a bit too much air for the bead to hold. Once the pressure went down enough, the bead was able to seal back up.

  12. #487
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    The reading was from an sks airchecker... Supposed to be pretty accurate. I just double checked the bead and it is fully seated on both sides. I upped the pressure to ease rolling resistance until the big snow hits... I can try 15 or so tomorrow, I suppose.

  13. #488
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    Mine "weeped" for a couple of days as things seemed to settle in. I had 20+ for a day or so, while the Stans distributed, but I've since dropped the pressure down, and rode actually yesterday without incident.

  14. #489
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    I have been riding ghetto tubeless for some time now, and attempted to shave some weight.

    Current setup: Clown Shoe rims, packing tape rim strip, Schwalbe AV-10D tube split. Tube weight around 260 grams (claimed).

    Attempt 1: Schwalbe AV-7C (22" lightweight tube). Claimed 90 grams, weighed 100 grams.
    Result: The tube stretched over the rim very easily, despite being smaller than usual. However, it only spread out to 70 mm width, so for anything but "narrow" fat bike rims, forget it.



    Attempt 2: Schwalbe AV-10 (the non-D version), weight 165 g (claimed).
    Result: it was promising but failed to deliver: 86 mm wasn't enough for the hundies. Anyone with Rolling Darryls might be interested.



    I was attempting to save as much as 320 grams from rotating weight, but failed. I'll stick to the AV-10D's for now, because despite their weight they have been incredibly easy to set up and offered burp-free and otherwise totally "fit and forget" performance for almost two years already. I might look at the tape method at some point but we'll see.

  15. #490
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    Hey all--
    I've had my wheels tubeless for a couple of weeks now and have this "weeping" going on. Anyone experience this? Is there a way to not have this happen?

    This is on my front wheel. Last weekend it was both wheels but now the rear seems fine. Both wheels seem to be holding air fine and have ridden them without issues.

    Any constructive ideas appreciated. Thanks.

    EDIT: When I mounted the tires I never did get the "pop" that generally happens when I've seated other tires (not fattys) tubeless. Should I be inflating until I hear the classic "pop"? The tires seem to have seated well and roll well, just not sure why the weeping is happening.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wheel-weeping-1.jpg

    Tubeless Tuesday.-wheel-weeping-2.jpg
    Last edited by OnThaCouch; 11-29-2014 at 03:42 PM. Reason: added some more info...

  16. #491
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    Tubeless and cheap fat bike rims

    This forum is awesome, full of good ideas and I've learned from other's mistakes before I made them myself.

    I thought I'd share my latest attempt as I have cheap rims that have no beadlock/bed at all and this has caused issues a bit later on (after the initial setup). There is no satisfactory "pop" of the bead locking in and the tyre could move away from the rim edge and burp air.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_162644.jpg

    The split tube method worked beautifully for me and after I packed up the rim with foam (the tyres are incredibly loose on the rim) I could pump it up with a floor pump easily.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_164432.jpg

    What happened though is that the foam would flatten down under pressure and then when I ran too lower psi (<12psi) or put a lot of lateral force onto the tyre, it would come away from rim and burp all the air out.

    After reading what ozzy did with memory foam/latex I chopped a strip off someone's yoga mat and used that as my padding. (No it's not light but for now I'm keen to see it works). The gaps down the side act like a bead lock.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_164232.jpg

    All good to go. I'll lower the psi and see how the edges hold up over the next few rides.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141222_163223.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20141226_162644.jpg  


  17. #492
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    I read through this thread (very helpful!!) and have a question. I have an older Pugsley I'm converting to tubeless. It has the old Large Marge undrilled wheels and I have the Larry 3.8 tires. I went with the Gorilla tape method and a Stan's presta valve. I had the tires aired up at 30psi with a tube for about 30 hours and now I'm pulling the tube and attempting to finish the process. The tire seems to seat okay with a slight bit of bubbling along a few spots on the wheel rim. But there are also bubbles coming up along the sidewall. I know that the non-tubeless tires will leak through the sidewalls, and I did a tubeless conversion on another bike using Pisgah tires and they leaked for a day through the sidewalls and the Stan's sealant eventually sealed everything. Should the same thing happen with the Larrys, or will it take forever and 8 oz of sealant to eventually seal them? I didn't add any sealant to the tires yet because if I have to do something else, I don't want to deal with sealant running all over when I pull the tire off.

    Thanks for any replies.

    Andy B.
    Main Ride: 2015 Trek Superfly FS 9.7 SL converted to 110mm Lefty PBR
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  18. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    ... old Large Marge undrilled ... Larry 3.8 tires. ... Gorilla tape ... Stan's presta valve. ... 30psi with a tube for about 30 hours ... pulling the tube ...

    - a slight bit of bubbling along a few spots on the wheel rim. But there are also bubbles coming up along the sidewall. ...

    - I didn't add any sealant to the tires yet...
    So what's bubbling if you didn't add any sealant yet?

  19. #494
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    HA!
    Just soapy water.
    Main Ride: 2015 Trek Superfly FS 9.7 SL converted to 110mm Lefty PBR
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  20. #495
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    So, you didn't pay attention to the part about not having any contaminants to interfere with the sealant...

    Do you have any RO/DI water to flush it out with? Including under pressure so those seeping paths you want the sealant to seal are clean and available to plug&bond?

    Some sidewall leaking is taken care of by the sealant. Different sealant, different tires, different wear/seeping, = different results.

    Others wash out the inside - so there won't be any contaminants - and pre-seal the inside surface. Diluted shoe goo, rubber cement, others... Search and see what makes sense to you, or what's been used for seeping Larrys, if not Surlys.

    At least you caught this before you're getting sealant all over.

  21. #496
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    It's just on the outside of the tires. The bead was about seated before I sprayed it on, so I figured since none was inside the tire, it should be okay. If need be, I can pop the bead again and check the inside. The bead seated fairly easily, so I don't think there would be a problem to do it. I only unseated one side to get the tube out and put the Stan's stem in. To tell the truth, it was more difficult POPPING the bead off, than seating it!!!

    EDIT: I did clean the wheels and inside of the tires before attempting this. I also washed off the tubes I used. I think I should be okay from a sealant functioning issue. I didn't pay attention to the pre-sealing the tire part though. I can see where that might be a good idea.
    Main Ride: 2015 Trek Superfly FS 9.7 SL converted to 110mm Lefty PBR
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  22. #497
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    Only on the outside is very good news!

    Only what got between the rim and the tire from the outside. May cause an issue. I'd suggest to rinse that very very well.

    You'll have to judge on:
    • is the mechanical seal good enough that sealant will finish the job (sealant won't fix a poor mechanical seal)(you're using Gorilla tape, which has the highest failure rate of any of the methods/materials)?
    • is the sidewall seeping low/little/minimal enough that sealant will seal it, or should the tire be presealed on the inside?

  23. #498
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    THANKS!!!!

    I think the sidewall seeping should be okay now that I look at it. The Pisgahs leaked like that, but sealed up in a few minutes. If I lay the tires on their sides, it should seal.

    I might pop the bead and wipe down the rim area though just to make sure no soapy water got in there. I don't think I'll use any water when I reseat it. I really don't think it was needed.
    Main Ride: 2015 Trek Superfly FS 9.7 SL converted to 110mm Lefty PBR
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  24. #499
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    And the mechanical seal of bead to tape over seat?
    (sealant will seal, it won't fill gaps)
    Given how easily it popped in, do you need another run around the rim to build the height up, or does it seem good to go?

    p.s.
    if your sealant has latex with ammonia: when you're laying it on one side (overnight?) to get that side's seeping sealed, you may offgas some ammonia through the up/unsealed side, which leaves the latex less protected from setting up. When you're done, consider topping up a small amount of ammonia to keep preventing the latex from setting up into the classic boogers. Otherwise you may end up opening, cleaning and replacing your sealant much sooner than you expected.

  25. #500
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    Thanks for the tips!

    I wouldn't say it "easily" seated, but I will say I had to really push on the sidewall to UNSEAT the bead. I think I'm good with the rim height.

    I'm going to have to check the sealant ingredients. I didn't think of the ammonia issue.

    I just got back from a ride on a non-fast bike (I know, sacrilege!!! LOL), so I have to go play with this project again.
    Main Ride: 2015 Trek Superfly FS 9.7 SL converted to 110mm Lefty PBR
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

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