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  1. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    I know I'm repeating myself, but for those of you who haven't run across this on stretch wrap. I have wheelsets that I installed around 10 months ago that are still good to go with no problems. Unlike Fatty stripper (that I thought about using myself, but bailed because of changing tires), I could really care less about what happens to the stretch wrap when the tire comes off. It's a 10 minute process to install new stretch wrap and costs less than $.30 cents (US dollars), and flame retardant clothing is not required.

    Tubeless With Stretch Wrap Slideshow by Bumpyride69 | Photobucket

    BTW there are captions above each picture if you opt for that. Just move your cursor on the picture.
    Thank for the detailed photos of this. I've been trying this method for the first time yesterday with no luck. I can see now where I went wrong. I'm going to try again. Did you use a tube to seat the tire bead?

  2. #902
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    Thank for the detailed photos of this. I've been trying this method for the first time yesterday with no luck. I can see now where I went wrong. I'm going to try again. Did you use a tube to seat the tire bead?
    and what valve did you go with? It says shrader, but which brand? Thanks in advance. Looking forward to going tubeless.

  3. #903
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    Quote Originally Posted by j0hnj0hns View Post
    So I scored some 3M 8898 tape for tubelessing up my mulefat rims and I'm having more trouble with this than I ever did with gorilla or the clear scotch tape. I cleaned the rim thoroughly with alcohol, pull the tape nice and tight (2 runs around both sides and 2 through the middle) and I still get air coming out some of the rim holes. This is the 2nd time I've tried. Last week it worked great initially but once I finished a big ride the air started pouring out through the rim holes again. Am I missing something?
    I used this tape successfully for about a year. When I changed tires I had nothing but problems with it. I even retaped to no success. I tried Fattystripper and instant success. No regrets.
    Riding Fat and still just as fast as I never was.

  4. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    I know I'm repeating myself, but for those of you who haven't run across this on stretch wrap. I have wheelsets that I installed around 10 months ago that are still good to go with no problems. Unlike Fatty stripper (that I thought about using myself, but bailed because of changing tires), I could really care less about what happens to the stretch wrap when the tire comes off. It's a 10 minute process to install new stretch wrap and costs less than $.30 cents (US dollars), and flame retardant clothing is not required.

    Tubeless With Stretch Wrap Slideshow by Bumpyride69 | Photobucket

    BTW there are captions above each picture if you opt for that. Just move your cursor on the picture.
    also do you know the gauge of the wrap is or what kind it is?

  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    and what valve did you go with? It says shrader, but which brand? Thanks in advance. Looking forward to going tubeless.
    Valve Stem pair, schrader, 32mm, 14mm base
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  6. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    also do you know the gauge of the wrap is or what kind it is?
    Picked up the stretch wrap at home depot for $9, will do somewhere around 17 or 18 tires.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  7. #907
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    Thank for the detailed photos of this. I've been trying this method for the first time yesterday with no luck. I can see now where I went wrong. I'm going to try again. Did you use a tube to seat the tire bead?
    I did not use a tube, but I am on Mulefuts. You may have a different experience. I have used 5 different tires all without tubes to set. Floor pump seated all of them.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  8. #908
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    Best to use 3 pieces of inner tube between the schrader valve and the rim, to account for the shoulder on the valve.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  9. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    Picked up the stretch wrap at home depot for $9, will do somewhere around 17 or 18 tires.
    I just found this stuff. One person on the HD site gave it bad reviews and suggested this stuff. https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies...c-Wrap?mid=102

  10. #910
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    Are there rims that just can't be made into tubeless? Doesn't seem so with the split tube or zip tape method.

  11. #911
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    I know I'm repeating myself, but for those of you who haven't run across this on stretch wrap. I have wheelsets that I installed around 10 months ago that are still good to go with no problems. Unlike Fatty stripper (that I thought about using myself, but bailed because of changing tires), I could really care less about what happens to the stretch wrap when the tire comes off. It's a 10 minute process to install new stretch wrap and costs less than $.30 cents (US dollars), and flame retardant clothing is not required.

    Tubeless With Stretch Wrap Slideshow by Bumpyride69 | Photobucket

    BTW there are captions above each picture if you opt for that. Just move your cursor on the picture.
    I ditched the 3M tape and tried this method again. I did this 3 years ago on a set of real cheap steel wheels on a real cheap fatbike and had mixed results. Might be just the ticket for the Mulefats so why not. I do remember that when I cut the excess plastic off it would retreat back into the tyre bead and leak a bit - but that could have been the shit tyre, packing and shit rims.
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20160223_080146.jpg

  12. #912
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    Can only agree on the stretch wrap method, got 2 fat bikes set up this way with no complains. One set is mulefuts and the other is dt swiss br710. The only important thing is to get the stretch wrap from the hardware store, the kind that is used for packaging your household i.e. cupboards etc... Dont use the kitchen type wrap cause it tears very easy.... just my 5 cents

  13. #913
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    Quote Originally Posted by Masul View Post
    Can only agree on the stretch wrap method, got 2 fat bikes set up this way with no complains. One set is mulefuts and the other is dt swiss br710. The only important thing is to get the stretch wrap from the hardware store, the kind that is used for packaging your household i.e. cupboards etc... Dont use the kitchen type wrap cause it tears very easy.... just my 5 cents
    just setup a wheel for the mayor this way. I got the wrap from uhaul. looks good so far.

  14. #914
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    Another successful stretch wrap setup here. It was on Rolling Darryl and Nate. I used a piece of packing tape to secure the end of the wrap to itself because it wasn't clinging very well. otherwise it was easy as can be. I've done my 29" with the gorilla tape method but found the stretch wrap to be easier.

  15. #915
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    I tried the stretch wrap without success. I may try again. Fatty Stripper worked fine. Split tubes was easy and cheaper than Fatty Stripper. Q-tube 24 x 2.4-2.75 presta tubes with removable core available from Bike Bling for $6/ea.

  16. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    If I'm trying to use split tube schrader valve, in a rim that has presta. should I need to drill out the hole? The rims on my 2015 Mayor have presta and schrader won't fit without a drill. Is this normal? Are there rims that are good for both?
    By a tube with presta valve.

    Q-Tubes 24" x 2.4-2.75" 32mm Presta Valve Tube from BikeBling.com

  17. #917
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    I was using one rim as a trial. to do many different types of setups and see the difference. I already drilled it out for schrader but used an old presta cut out of a tube with the stretch wrap. The tube I used was too narrow for the 80 mm rim. I like the wrap method for the cheapness and it's also the lightest by far.

  18. #918
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    Just converted my wife's Watchman to tubeless - Nates on Rolling Daryls. They set up way easy with just a JoeBlow fat floor pump, no compressor needed. Piece o' cake and no noticeable air loss yet.
    Advocate Hayduke
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  19. #919
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    So I finally got my my HED front rim and Sarma rear rim set up tubeless (after many failures). So, here are my reactions:

    1. No weight savings compared to light tubes. It took 6-8 ounces of Stans per wheel, any less than that and the setup eventually failed. My tires were not tubeless ready, so maybe with tubeless ready tires you could get by with less Stans, but then you'd have much heavier tires, so again, no weight savings.

    2. No pinch flat avoidance benefit. I have almost 14,000 miles on my fat bike with tubes and not one pinch flat at any pressure, so no benefit to switching to tubeless from this either.

    3. No handling or grip benefit. Sorry, if anything, the tubeless setup is a bit bouncier.

    4. HUGE Reduction in rolling resistance. This last one is truly surprising and justifies the switch despite the mess, hassle, and extra expense.
    --Peace

  20. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    1. No weight savings compared to light tubes. It took 6-8 ounces of Stans per wheel, any less than that and the setup eventually failed. My tires were not tubeless ready, so maybe with tubeless ready tires you could get by with less Stans, but then you'd have much heavier tires, so again, no weight savings.

    Damn, that's a lot of sealant. I do around 4oz setting up a new tire (and that's a BIG tire). What kind of rim tape you using? I went Tyvek and it's stupid-light.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  21. #921
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    First my apologies for not reading all 37 million pages of this thread.

    Second: jackass me threw away my toobs after setting my tires up tubeless a long time ago. Got new tires. Setting it up again. Gorilla tape/Stans. Has anyone had any luck getting the bead to seat using a normal tube? Like a 26x2.25 tube? No shops here stock fatty toobs and I really don't feel like paying $15-18 for a tube that I'm only going to use for 2 minutes when I can get a normal tube for $3 at Walmart. All I need it to do is set the bead.
    Drink beer. 'Merica!

  22. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by rschreck View Post
    First my apologies for not reading all 37 million pages of this thread.

    Second: jackass me threw away my toobs after setting my tires up tubeless a long time ago. Got new tires. Setting it up again. Gorilla tape/Stans. Has anyone had any luck getting the bead to seat using a normal tube? Like a 26x2.25 tube? No shops here stock fatty toobs and I really don't feel like paying $15-18 for a tube that I'm only going to use for 2 minutes when I can get a normal tube for $3 at Walmart. All I need it to do is set the bead.
    I just heard about a method using starter fluid and a blow torch. Might work, or just try stretch wrap and a strap if needed.

  23. #923
    How much does it weigh?
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    BBQ lighter, blowtorch is kinda of dangerous... might ruin something.

  24. #924
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    My LBS puts 27.5 regular tubes in several fat bikes. If you are running 80mm or below, they work fine (in fact, I think they work better then a dedicated fat bike tube). If you are running a wider rim then that, I couldn't get it to work.

  25. #925
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    I set up a Bud and Lou on Clown Shoes with the Fatty Stripper this weekend.

    I used the backer rods and bling strip with a little bit of soap for lubrication. The only place where I had a bit of trouble was getting everything to seal around the valve stem. Maybe I didn't use the spare tube quite right...didn't watch the video just went off written instructions. I had to tighten the nut quite a bit to get a good seal around the valve (even needed to use my multi-tool). In the end, I got everything set up with a hand pump. Set up took a bit of sweat, care and finesse, but I'm pleased.

  26. #926
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    For Tubeless Tuesday....I read this entire thread. I have a Pivot Les Fat frame coming to me today vis a vis "Brown Santa" and am receiving my wheel parts in a few days....looking forward to lacing those suckers up and sharing my results with the class. As a pre-comment: I will say that I have contributed to the monster Arizona tubeless thread and have my own method which pretty much adheres to the best practices exhibited within this thread. I've been using Pipe Tape instead of Gorilla Tape for 7 years and have been happy with the results, both from an application/usage standpoint, and from a clean-up perspective. After absorbing all 38 pages of this thread, I'm going to go with another roll of pipe tape, but a 4" wide roll to ensure I can cover the rim completely and then trim back to just under the lip as I have done on my 29'r....thusly avoiding a gap between tape edge and rim/tire bead interface. The Zip flashing tape has me intrigued however....and if for some reason the pipe tape I've been using (only wider) does not work out, I may try that as a backup.

    Looking forward to sharing my woes or triumph on this thread.

  27. #927
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    Shipping I can take on the chin . It is what it is . But the UK seems to swap the $ sign for the £ sign (without using the exchange rate) THEN add 20% V.A.T. (our tax) then add ANOTHER $15 at the post office just for their handling charge . It all becomes quite expensive quite quickly .

    Maybe we could look into a UK group buy of Q-Tubes or something LOL

    Remind me again why I like living here. . . . . . . . oh yeah that's right the gorgeous weather


    Fat Biker
    so true with the exchange rates, having skipped back and forth from the US to UK its become blatantly and horribly obvious. to add a dollop of conspiracy, i purchased a pc in the USA for a few hundred dollars, went back to the uk and did a search for the same shop\deal\product. the dollar prices were changed to say 600-700 usd (not just the gbp conversion, total different pricing scheme, i tried every trick to make me appear as if i was in the usa). went back to the usa, searched, normal price 200-300usd.

    if ever your looking to save, get someone in the usa to search for you. but expect massive postage costs.

  28. #928
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    Not sure how I didn't reach this solution sooner, but I FINALLY got a reliable method to seat fat tires on my Nextie 65mm rims.

    I've had to use a tube every time up until today.

    Instead of using soapy water to lube the bead, I went with straight liquid dish soap, generously applied. Hit with the compressor, and POP, right into place. No need for any straps or anything funky this time.

  29. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Not sure how I didn't reach this solution sooner, but I FINALLY got a reliable method to seat fat tires on my Nextie 65mm rims.

    I've had to use a tube every time up until today.

    Instead of using soapy water to lube the bead, I went with straight liquid dish soap, generously applied. Hit with the compressor, and POP, right into place. No need for any straps or anything funky this time.
    Not got the Nextie 65's Harold but their 65mm relatives from another supplier (To me they look identical ).

    JJ 4.0 Liteskins and Jug 4.0 pro's both sealed up with a track pump n no straps or shenanigans. All four went on by hand no dish soap , no water. Nothin. Both brand fire new rims and tyres. Never had it so easy TBH

    Dunno if yours or mine were first or last out of the moulds but somethings different (I'm sure they're the same rim even out of the same factory. Just different resellers ) that's for sure.

    Are yours painted ? Mine are unidirectional matte lacquered. Maybe that could be it ?

    Glad you found the soloution though.



    Fat Biker


    P.S. Aired straight up to 20psi when the popping stopped too .

  30. #930
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    I do not think they are the same. I have both Nexties and LB's in the stable and they are subtly different.

    At any rate, tire choice is definitely important. Note the tires I mentioned are NOT tubeless ready in any respect. The Nates are especially challenging to seat.

    No sense in me spending hundreds on new rubber when I have plenty of life left in these and have been otherwise satisfied with them.

    I have my eye on the Juggernauts once I wear out the Husker Dus

  31. #931
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    I do not think they are the same. I have both Nexties and LB's in the stable and they are subtly different.

    At any rate, tire choice is definitely important. Note the tires I mentioned are NOT tubeless ready in any respect. The Nates are especially challenging to seat.

    No sense in me spending hundreds on new rubber when I have plenty of life left in these and have been otherwise satisfied with them.

    I have my eye on the Juggernauts once I wear out the Husker Dus
    Not ridden either of mine yet. But I'd get a look minimum at the Jug pro's if not a ride. The blocks are shockingly small and the sidewalls could have been made in a condom factory. Durable or substantial are two words I would least expect to be heard when describing them. The JJ's on the other hand although heavier (not by much IRL ) do appear to offer a far more robust tread and carcass upon initial inspection. The proof is in the riding though


    Fat Biker

  32. #932
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    not sure I'll get to ride both, but a local shop does have both in stock, among other choices.

  33. #933
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    A big plastic bag = instant tubeless-rim strip:


    By far the easiest and cheapest way to make a rim tubeless that I've tested. Also worked on Rolling Darryl rim.

  34. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmk View Post
    A big plastic bag = instant tubeless-rim strip:


    By far the easiest and cheapest way to make a rim tubeless that I've tested. Also worked on Rolling Darryl rim.
    Absolutely, completely hysterical. For over three years I've been wondering "if only there was a big tube of plastic that I could just cut a hoop out of...bam, instant tubeless."...and its been in front of my face the entire time.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  35. #935
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    You just blew my mind. Is this just a contractor bag?

  36. #936
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    Pretty much any plastic bag with suitable diameter will do. The bag that I used is for (moose)hunters to store meat. The opening is about 87cm and that's pretty much perfect, needs a tiny bit of stretching to mount it. I've tried garbage bags too, but that's so thin material that it's too easy to damage the bag while assembling the tire.

    I use a couple of layers of packing tape to cover the nibbles and rim holes, before I put the bag on. Depending how thick plastic you can find (and how dangerously you want to live) you may get away by just using the plastic bag.

    One 7€ roll of bags will do a lot of tubeless setups and it's easy to take spares with you on trips

  37. #937
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    Did the tubeless conversion on the Farley 7 last night - Zip System tape.
    Shop ZIP System 90-ft Panel System Tape at Lowes.com

    Wide, sticky, stretchy, and the $25 roll will probably do 8 wheels.
    I had to hit the inside of the Mulefuts with steel wool and alcohol since it's like teflon in there and the tape is loath to stick to it at first.
    The prep is what took the most time. I also took an exacto to the stock rim strim to make it a bit narrower and give the tape more surface area to stick to.

    A second set of hands helped me get a good tight stretch on the tape, as I pulled the roll and burnished it down with my other hand. Then I ran an X`acto knife along the bottom of the bead shelf and re-burnished the tape. Looks factory installed.

    Mounted the tire with the tube, inflated to lock the beads.
    Broke one side, removed the tube, inserted the new valve stem, poured in 8oz Stans racing sealant and re-inflated.

    Done.

    That Zip take is good stuff, but on an 80mm rim I needed to trim it.
    Perhaps I could have left it alone, but I wasn't sure the tire bead would lock on the rim as well if I didn't expose the bead shelf.

  38. #938
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    Thanks, Watermonkey. Longterm report?

    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post

    This is the next evolution in my tubeless adventures - on the HL80 again, without any sort of rim filler.
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    I came across this at the local hardware store. Its basically 9" wide, stretchable, puncture resistant tape that sticks to itself. I took two full wraps under light tension to remove all wrinkles, overlapping the presta valve hole, reinforced the seam with 1 strip of scotts tough tape, and two more small patches of scotts tough tape with the inner strands in offset orientation to reinforce the installed Stan's valve stem hole. I then mounted the snowshoe, installed Stan's via homemade injector through valve core, and inflated a snowshoe on an HL80 with a floor pump, no leaks whatsover, before doing the stan's shake. Mind numbingly simple setup, and no way to go any lighter than this (on this rim). Think of the saran wrap method, but the saran wrap is actually a tape, that's stronger, easier to install, seats perfectly to previous layer without any wrinkles or voids (hard to actually tell there's multiple layers down), stretchier and more durable. The adhesive backing helps it hold to the rim edge suspending it above the rim channel during mounting, creating the seal to the tire bead. Trimmed the excess close to the edge with a razor blade and called it good. Since the adhesive is rim side down, it won't crawl back into the rim like a split tube that burps at low pressure. If it wasn't for the stupid deep channel in the middle of the HL80's, this would be a permanent, lightweight solution. On other rims with a shallow cross section where building up the bed isn't necessary, this could be a one and done process. Hope this helps someone out.
    Anyone else try this tape?

    This tape is nice and wide so could cut the roll in half or off center giving you two rolls: one for wide rims and one for narrower, leaving enough width to get bead seat to bead seat coverage. Looks like it would work like the Zipp tape method but wider.

    I'd like to try it w tyvek house wrap material or reinforced nylon as the rim strip then a layer of this carpet shield tape.

    Anyone else have any success or failures?

    It's called: Quick Shield 9" wide carpet protection tape made by Surface Shields.
    Last edited by Kirkerik; 06-02-2016 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Picture not showing in quote

  39. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    Did the tubeless conversion on the Farley 7 last night - Zip System tape.
    Shop ZIP System 90-ft Panel System Tape at Lowes.com

    Wide, sticky, stretchy, and the $25 roll will probably do 8 wheels.
    I had to hit the inside of the Mulefuts with steel wool and alcohol since it's like teflon in there and the tape is loath to stick to it at first.
    The prep is what took the most time. I also took an exacto to the stock rim strim to make it a bit narrower and give the tape more surface area to stick to.

    A second set of hands helped me get a good tight stretch on the tape, as I pulled the roll and burnished it down with my other hand. Then I ran an X`acto knife along the bottom of the bead shelf and re-burnished the tape. Looks factory installed.

    Mounted the tire with the tube, inflated to lock the beads.
    Broke one side, removed the tube, inserted the new valve stem, poured in 8oz Stans racing sealant and re-inflated.

    Done.

    That Zip take is good stuff, but on an 80mm rim I needed to trim it.
    Perhaps I could have left it alone, but I wasn't sure the tire bead would lock on the rim as well if I didn't expose the bead shelf.
    A vendor on E-Bay currently has the Zip tape for $25 or best offer. I offered $20 and vendor accepted. No additional shipping charged. Not a bad deal.

  40. #940
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    do you guys do both tubes or just front? Got a used bike the front is tubeless but not back? why?

  41. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by missourifarmer View Post
    do you guys do both tubes or just front? Got a used bike the front is tubeless but not back? why?
    Both - don't spin about why the front is tubeless and not the rear on that bike.

  42. #942
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    Here is a video showing how I set up Clown Shoe and Rolling Darryl rims tubeless.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTXeFJjfUMs
    --Peace

  43. #943
    vmk
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    Quick fix for broken tubeless tire. Here's mine with a branch that went thru in the middle of the thread:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-1-dsc_0377.jpg

    I cleaned the hole the best I could, then I used a couple of matches to dry the surface. Next in went a healthy dose of super glue. After that had set I added a piece of old tire on top of the hole, super glue again, to make sure that I get home. Worked perfectly, finished the ride in a rocky trail with out any leaking
    Tubeless Tuesday.-1-dsc_0379.jpg

  44. #944
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    I just set up my Bucksaw tubeless using a clownshoe rim strips on top of the Marge Lite strip along with Stans valves and ~100ml of sealant. It has Marge Lite rims, a Nate tyre of the front and an On-One Floater on the rear, I managed to get the beads to seal for both wheels with a floor pump. Here's what I found:

    I first tried this on the rear a couple of months ago but couldn't get the tyre beads to seal. I left the extra rim strip in the wheel and put the tube back in and rode the bike for a few hundred kilometres. I've now returned from a trip where I got far too many flats. This gave me the impetus to try again. At the start of the trip I had a Nate on the rear, but replaced it with the thicker Floater as it offers better puncture protection for the tube.

    The back wheel has had the extra rim strip in it for about 3 months and I just carefully broke the bead on one side, removed the tube and put the Stans valve in. I placed the wheel on a bucket, with the open bead facing down, slathered on dish washing detergent, removed the valve core and pumped as hard as I could for about 20 seconds when I could see the tyre was inflating. I then put the Stans in using a large syringe and did the usual shake and roll. There were no leaks from the rim holes, the valve or the sidewalls.

    On the front wheel I needed to put the Clown Shoe rim strip on. I then tried the above steps but couldn't keep the bead on one side of the tyre seated so I put the tube back in and left it over night. This morning I repeated the steps I used for the back wheel and got the beads to easily seat and then added the Stans.

    I found this time the sealant leaked out of the sidewalls, the rim strips and around the valve. I assume this is because the extra rims strip on the front hadn't spent a few months settling into the wheel, and the much thicker and heavier Floater on the rear is more airtight than the Nate. After shaking it around for a while it sealed up properly and about 6 hours later it's still holding pressure after a 1 hour ride.

    Thanks to those who posted their experience on using this method.

    Tim
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-img_0695.jpg  


  45. #945
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    Have some leftovers of PE swimming pool liner. And decided to try it for tubeless setup. The liner is 0.3mm thick. Cut a strip of 185 cm (175 cm circumference +10 cm for overlap), welded it with an iron and stretched over the rim. No rim tape, just this liner.

    With tire mounted:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-liner.jpg

    On bike:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-trim.jpg

    Welded overlap:
    Tubeless Tuesday.-weld.jpg

  46. #946
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    [QUOTE=Dilligaff;12440519]Works perfectly. Stretch it somewhat tight before trimming and there won't be any wrinkles.

    QUOTE]

    Wow that looks perfect. I am trying Zip tape on 70mm UMAIII so it overlaps on both sides. I am having a tough time getting it to set flat without creasing.

    How many layers, of Zip tape? Just one?

  47. #947
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmk View Post
    Quick fix for broken tubeless tire. Here's mine with a branch that went thru in the middle of the thread:
    On the ride last night somone had a puncture, Stans wasnt' sealing, it was wet and muddy....

    One guy had a tubeless patch kit, we were back riding in under 5mins.


    This is the kit we used: http://amzn.to/2gnL1AC

    Cheaper option here http://amzn.to/2f80waK

    Tubeless Tuesday.-unnamed.jpg

  48. #948
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    [QUOTE=ashwinearl;12928180]
    Quote Originally Posted by Dilligaff View Post
    Works perfectly. Stretch it somewhat tight before trimming and there won't be any wrinkles.

    QUOTE]

    How many layers, of Zip tape? Just one?
    Yes, just one. Zip tape stretches pretty well. To get it tight put wheel in frame and use something to hold the brake in while you stretch the tape on.

  49. #949
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    I used two because one seemed to bulge the center strip more than I liked.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  50. #950
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    Man, I'm so tempted to buy a Milkit valve package and go tubeless ... but I'm not sure yet, what my bike maker delivers for rims on the ordered bike ... it says Alex Blizzerks, but I also heard the swapped somewhere once .. I'll see. The Blizzerks seema bit heavy and I have no idea how good they are for tubeless ... was also thinking of DT Swiss 710s to go lighter, even though they're not tubeless ready by DT Swiss it seems they work well with decent tape. Ah well ... I have no real idea what the best rim for tubeless would be. The 710s are decent weightwise for the price .. and a lightweight all closed rim like the B.A.D is both very expensive and .. I'm not sure about the stability of a full metal rim at that weight level.

    Also thinking of ghetto methods. I think buying latex bands in bulk rolls at about 150mm width and glue the ends with vulcanizing latex rubber would be a fairly decent solution .... just need to fidn out where to get cheap latex bulkware in decent quality. And I can't really decide on what thickness you'd need.

    Anyone know what a proper thickness for the latex bands would be, so that it is solid enough to stay in place, not ripping etc, but without being too thick as a liner to the tires bead?
    Last edited by voon; 1 Week Ago at 03:57 PM.

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