Page 11 of 11 FirstFirst ... 7891011
Results 1,001 to 1,048 of 1048
  1. #1001
    saddlemeat
    Reputation: bsieb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    3,585
    ^Could be how porous the tire sidewalls are too. Just saying... I have always used full ust rims, amazing how tire porosity varies, even from one to another of the same tire. I now weigh them and take the heaviest one, use less sealant to even out the difference in weight.
    I ride with the best dogs.




  2. #1002
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jeff_G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    660
    Quote Originally Posted by bsieb View Post
    ^Could be how porous the tire sidewalls are too. Just saying... I have always used full ust rims, amazing how tire porosity varies, even from one to another of the same tire. I now weigh them and take the heaviest one, use less sealant to even out the difference in weight.
    Nope, I've run both sets of tires with both tubeless set ups with the same result.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  3. #1003
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    4,954
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Something just dawned on me. I switched from Fattystrippers to Sunringle tape on my Mulefuts in the fall when I put the studded D5s on. In Feb. went back to Barbagazzis.

    I checking and adding air every third day or so with the Fattystrippers. The current set up with the Sunringle tape hasn't lost 1 psi in the last month.

    Could be user error with the valve stem on the Fattystipper but......


    YMV
    Like latex tubes, they seep air.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  4. #1004
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    433
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Something just dawned on me. I switched from Fattystrippers to Sunringle tape on my Mulefuts in the fall when I put the studded D5s on. In Feb. went back to Barbagazzis.

    I checking and adding air every third day or so with the Fattystrippers. The current set up with the Sunringle tape hasn't lost 1 psi in the last month.

    Could be user error with the valve stem on the Fattystipper but......

    YMV
    Fattystrippers are latex. Latex tubes lose air way faster than rubber tubes. I would expect Fattystrippers to similarly lose pressure. Doh, Banshee beat me to it. My bad for posting before reading the full thread.

  5. #1005
    mtbr member
    Reputation: chode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    94
    Shredded my rear fattystripper somehow and had to walk the bike out of the woods Saturday. My wife is a therapist and has Teraband which is the same crap so I mounted the "green" which is mid grade thickness and more durable. I used rubber cement to create the loop and overlap followed by Elmer's glue spray between the bling tape and Teraband. Fingers crossed that this will hold up or I will switch to the split tube or sunringle tape.

  6. #1006
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    1,723
    Quote Originally Posted by chode View Post
    Shredded my rear fattystripper somehow and had to walk the bike out of the woods Saturday. My wife is a therapist and has Teraband which is the same crap so I mounted the "green" which is mid grade thickness and more durable. I used rubber cement to create the loop and overlap followed by Elmer's glue spray between the bling tape and Teraband. Fingers crossed that this will hold up or I will switch to the split tube or sunringle tape.

    Zip Tape

  7. #1007
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jeff_G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    660
    I keep hearing Zip Tape but I cannot find it anywhere. Home Depot shows it but it's unavailable in store and online. Which is sweet.

    Anyone have a link?
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  8. #1008
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    196
    Jeff, try Lowes.

  9. #1009
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watermonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,055
    I've never seen it either, and I've tried the online outlets for both Lowe's and Home depot. All I've ever found is thick, tarry, bituthane tape, that would be a nightmare to apply and then remove if needed. Gambit comes on here everytime someone mentions a tubeless method, yet has yet to provide a link to the actual product for sale, or a specific item/product number for it. I believe the stuff to be vaporware.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  10. #1010
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    1,723
    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I've never seen it either, and I've tried the online outlets for both Lowe's and Home depot. All I've ever found is thick, tarry, bituthane tape, that would be a nightmare to apply and then remove if needed. Gambit comes on here everytime someone mentions a tubeless method, yet has yet to provide a link to the actual product for sale, or a specific item/product number for it. I believe the stuff to be vaporware.
    3 second search yields a link to Lowes.com.


    https://m.lowes.com/pd/ZIP-System-90...-Tape/50373856

    Use bubble gum and Scotch tape for all I care. Fact is, flashing tape is by FAR the best tape solution if you have the bandwidth to locate it.

    I've also said multiple times - Forti-Flash...Tyvek...flashing tape.

    Zip has a nice balance between flex and adhesion. FortiFlash is extremely sticky, which would cause me concern for later removal. Point is, flashing tape is wide, stretchy, and sticky...and you can pick up one brand or another at any local establishment that carries construction materials.

    So whining about "vaporware" is beyond silly. "Silly" being the most diplomatic word for what I'm really thinking, especially given the number of times I've covered this.

  11. #1011
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watermonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,055
    Ohhhhh! Now I know what you're talking about! Yeah, that stuff. Doesn't work. Total nightmare.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  12. #1012
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    1,723
    heh...nice try.
    Shameful, yet typical
    Last edited by Gambit21; 05-01-2017 at 11:49 PM.

  13. #1013
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post

    Zip has a nice balance between flex and adhesion.
    Yes it does, and thank you for posting this (multiple times). It works so well on Mulefut rims (for instance) that there really isn't any good reason I can think of to muck about with anything else.

  14. #1014
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kirkerik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    497
    I could see how zip tape would work nicely, although how do you deal w the exposed sticky side in rim cutouts? Assuming you want to run sans stripper for more weight savings.

    Maybe one wrap of shrinkwrap and then the zip for durability.

  15. #1015
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    1,723
    If you're worried about the minuscule amount of weight that is the rim strip after you've committed to that rim and tire....

    No weenies!

  16. #1016
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jeff_G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    660
    Bling strips from Fattystripper weigh 100 grams for the pair. When you are running a set of tires that weigh 3.000 grams it's probably not a large impact.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  17. #1017
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Kirkerik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    497
    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    If you're worried about the minuscule amount of weight that is the rim strip after you've committed to that rim and tire....

    No weenies!
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Bling strips from Fattystripper weigh 100 grams for the pair. When you are running a set of tires that weigh 3.000 grams it's probably not a large impact.
    Ah, okay. I'm running carbons so I have no experience w fattystrippers. Somehow had the impression they were heavy (so as to be durable from punctures and stuff).

  18. #1018
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    12
    I converted mine to tubeless using the split tube method this wknd.

    I installed used VeeRubber Vee8s (72 TPI) on Holy Darryls. My LBS only had Axiom downhill tubes in 24x2.75, so they are thicker (and heavier) than needed, but it's what I could get.

    Getting the tire to seat on the rim was pretty easy; I used a ratchet strap, and using a floor pump I had no issue getting it to inflate on the first go.

    I had seen a YouTube video that showed a guy using a syringe to inject the sealant directly through the tire, and since the tubes I got don't have a removable stem, I figured I'd give that a go. I used an 18 gauge needle (fairly large) attached to a 100 ml syringe, and it was, overall, a failure. As one might expect, the Stan's sealed the hole in the needle before I could push 100 ml of sealant into the tire, let alone refilling the syringe to add more. I went through all three needles that I had before breaking the seal between the tire and rim and squirting it in that way.

    Then I reinflated, took them for a ride, and lost no air. Overnight now, and still no air lost. I'm happy, and glad I read this megathread.

  19. #1019
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jeff_G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    660
    Help me out.

    I've done 3 sets of Mulefuts using Fattystripper and Sunringle tape. All using the Fattystripper Bling strips and their valves. All were successful. My latest endeavor was the Sunringle tape on my bike. It holds air for weeks.......

    Guy at work buys a Sturgis NX 1x11 and I suggest he go tubeless. Offer to help as I've done it many times.

    Put the bling strip on, tape goes on without any hiccups, put the valve cores in (no gasket or tube material like the other times) put the tire on, Stan's inserted through the valve and air it up.

    Front hisses like crazy out of the cutouts. Basically went flat three times in five minutes. We did the Stan's shake and it stopped after about 15 minutes.

    Back seems to hold air.

    We go for a 20 minute ride.

    Guy goes home and both tires are flat in morning. From 15 psi to flat in a day.

    Any thoughts?

    "No good deed goes unpunished, do good deeds anyway"
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  20. #1020
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    131
    I had Mulefuts go flat on initial tubeless setup and at a couple tire changes. Initially on one it was leaking around the valve stem. I took the stem out and added a piece of old tube to help seal it. Other times I just had to do a bunch of Stan's shaking.

    Are the Minions that come on the NX the EXO/Tubeless ones? Maybe the sidewalls aren't sealed up with Stan's yet? I've had several pairs of tires that first set up tubeless they leaked until they weeped enough out the sidewalls until the sealed up well. I even had a pair of used FBF's I put on this fall that had Orange Seal residue that still weeped Stan's out the sidewalls for a bit

  21. #1021
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jeff_G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    660
    They are the Minions, with pretty light tubes ironically.

    I didn't notice any weeping but I didn't ask the guy if he noticed it after he left my place.

    The front tire had a VERY large leak coming from the cutouts/spokeholes immediately after it was mounted.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  22. #1022
    Not the fake Jay Leno
    Reputation: Chinman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    345
    If it is leaking around the cutouts and spokeholes, it's got to be leaking around the valve. If you did not build up the valve with the extra strip of rubber, that is probably why it is leaking. That is where I've had the most problem getting a good seal. This is really the weakest link with the fatty stripper.

  23. #1023
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    91
    Hi-diddly-ho, neighboreenos!

    I am going to go the split tube method on some 29ers, 26ers and some 24ers (I have some of the 24" Large Marges Surly made).

    So my understanding is that I should use the following tubes for these various wheel sizes

    29er- 24" tubes
    26er - 20" tubes
    24er - ? 18" or 16" any ideas?

    What size tube should I use for the 24er. A 18" or a 16"?

    Also what tube width tube should I use for these various rims. The 24 and 26 rims are both 65mm wide and the 29 is 31.5 mm wide? (Also is split tube just a fat bike thing, or can I do it on the skinny 31.5mm 29er rims?)

    Thanks

  24. #1024
    mtbr member
    Reputation: baltobrewer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    242
    Used Tyvek tape (1.88" width) to set up tubeless on my 65mm carbon LB fatbike rims. Went on super easy and holding air without issue. Aired up with a floor pump.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1464.jpg
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1466.jpg
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1465.jpg

  25. #1025
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    158
    Schwalbe tubeless 40mm valve stems are the best for fat rims. There is enough thread for shallow rim installs easily

  26. #1026
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    433
    Quote Originally Posted by smporter View Post
    Hi-diddly-ho, neighboreenos!

    I am going to go the split tube method on some 29ers, 26ers and some 24ers (I have some of the 24" Large Marges Surly made).

    So my understanding is that I should use the following tubes for these various wheel sizes

    29er- 24" tubes
    26er - 20" tubes
    24er - ? 18" or 16" any ideas?

    What size tube should I use for the 24er. A 18" or a 16"?

    Also what tube width tube should I use for these various rims. The 24 and 26 rims are both 65mm wide and the 29 is 31.5 mm wide? (Also is split tube just a fat bike thing, or can I do it on the skinny 31.5mm 29er rims?)

    Thanks
    I have used a 24" tube on a 26" wheel with great success. Using a tube that is 2" smaller than the rim regardless of the rim size should work. Obviously they do not make a 22, so I would try a 20" tube on a 24" rim.

    For a 80mm rim, a 2.4-2.75" tube will work. I have found that Q-Tubes makes a 24"x2.4-2.75" with a removable core presta valve.

    To size the tube, use the small number (in this case 2.4) divide by two to get the radius, then multiply by pi, the convert from inches to mm. The math looks like this 2.4/2 x 3.14 x 25.4 mm/in = 95.7mm. That is roughly the width of the split tube once cut open. While I have not tried it on a 100mm rim, I expect you would get enough stretch to make it work.

  27. #1027
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    433
    This is where I bought my "vaporware" (aka Zip Flashing Tape):

    Zip System Flashing Tape 3 3/4" 90' Water Sealing Tape S-13773 | eBay

    It stretches nicely for a wrinkle free install, is easy to trim and can be removed if needed.

    BTW, it is made for building components called Zip Wall. One could find the local retailer of Zip Wall and get the tape there. (hint, its likely a lumberyard)

  28. #1028
    mtbr member
    Reputation: solarplex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    1,207
    Im trying sunringle tape and because i always have issues with stans valves i got e thirteens. Hopefully they tighten up against the rim... seems like they give you a bunch of spacers and o rings.... fingers crossed.
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  29. #1029
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    41
    Just went tubeless yesterday on tuesday

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  30. #1030
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    433
    I have two sets of wheels, a good set that I swap between studded Dillingers for winter and good rolling Knards for the summer. My stock wheelset is fitted with some Framed Minnesota tires for the transition times of spring and fall. Both wheelsets are set up tubeless. I just swapped. To my transition wheelset. The damn front wheel would not hold air for longer than an hour. In tearing it apart I found that on the Rolling Daryl I had used Orange Seal tape with a narrow strip of Tesa tape on each side to make it a bit wider. Orange Seal valve stem was installed without an o-ring or other additional gasket. The Orange Seal tape seemed like it had degraded over a year and a half.

    The fix:

    Removal of all tape
    Install of Zip tape filling entire bed
    Install gasket on stem made of a small piece in inner tube with hole made with paper punch.
    3-4 oz home brew sealant ( 1:3 latex and windshield washer fluid & a bit of glitter)

    Result:

    Rock solid. It sealed without even having to take it for a ride.

    Dillingers swapped onto the Mulefuts with existing Zip tape with no problem.

    Bottom line, the Zip tape seems to hold up better than Orange Seal and the added thickness helps the bead to seal.

  31. #1031
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    95
    Well, I've converted my studded Wazia's for this winter. My first time going tubeless and I used the split tube method as described here with a foam filler to allow the tire to seat to the bead. I used 24" fat bike tubes and they worked perfectly with the Rolling Daryl rims and Terrene tires.






    My daily wheel may be next after seeing how easy this is to get rolling but I'm curious if you can reuse the split tube to swap tires or if it's too narrow after cutting around the bead to have it seat again?

  32. #1032
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,708
    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    ..... I'm curious if you can reuse the split tube to swap tires or if it's too narrow after cutting around the bead to have it seat again?
    I reuse mine. Depends on how close you trimmed the tube and how much you want to fiddle with it to get positioned the 2nd time around.

  33. #1033
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    Im trying sunringle tape and because i always have issues with stans valves i got e thirteens. Hopefully they tighten up against the rim... seems like they give you a bunch of spacers and o rings.... fingers crossed.
    Use a No. 14 nylon finishing washer, install with the tapered side toward the rim. This lets the valve rubber projecting through the rim go into an open space, which helps prevent distortion and improves the seal.

    Any good hardware store will have these on the shelf.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-nylon-finishing-washer-1.jpg  

    Tubeless Tuesday.-nylon-finishing-washer-2.jpg  

    Yukon Truck
    Novatec / Mulefut 80's
    Tsunami 4.9's

  34. #1034
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    252
    EDIT: Was able to make a trip into the Denver area and found some ZIP System tape at Lowes. It was a major issue to find it in the store, was not in the area listed online for that specific store. Location was in building materials very close to sheet rock tape/trowels.

    Zip tape looks to be of excellent quality.
    Last edited by Dr Sloth; 03-18-2018 at 06:28 AM.

  35. #1035
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    252
    Reporting back after the tubeless conversion using ZIP System tape and Stan's sealant.

    Removed tire/tube from the wheel and cleaned of all dirt with a clean towel. The tape was a bit difficult to apply on the first wheel. Had to remove the first taping attempt but then honed my skills applying the tape the second go around. I found that it was easiest to apply the tape about 5-6" while pressing into the one sidewall of the 80mm rim. With the roll of tape balanced on top, I then pressed the same 5-6" section of tape into the flat section of the rim, filling in the cutout holes, then pressed that same section into the opposite sidewall. I was able to get the tape pressed in with minimal creases on the flat section and no creases on the sidewalls. I did need to trim the tape on the 2nd sidewall but only trimmed at the top of the sidewall. From there, went around both tape edges and pressed the tape edges all the way around.

    Set my valves. Put the tires on, which were tires I had already been using with tubes. Then laid that wheel with tire on a 5 gal plastic bucket. Removed the valve core and sprayed a mildly soapy water mixture to wet the tire bead all the way around without spraying too much for it to drip into the tire. Did that on both sides. Then aired up using my compressor. Tire aired up without problem and soapy bubbles did form around the tire bead. Let the compressed air escape and added 6oz of Stan's Sealant. Installed valve core and aired to max of 30 psi. I then sloshed the Stan's around to make sure and coat the entire inside of the tire/bead. No more bubbles forming. Laid the tire back on the 5 gal bucket and sprayed the soapy mixture again around the entire bead area, no bubbles forming on either side.

    Aired down to about 12 psi both tires. Let it sit for about 3-4 hours. Then aired down to 9F and 10.5R and went for a ride in dry conditions. Short 6 mile ride on trail but when returned home, no air loss. Check this morning and tire pressure on both tires down about .25 psi per tire but it is about 30 degrees cooler today than yesterday so the cold might be impacting the psi.

    Overall, other than the first tape attempt, a very problem free tubeless conversion using the Zip System tape recommended in this thread. I will say that I have done tubeless conversions before but on standard size MTB tires.

  36. #1036
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    170
    If you prick us, do we not bleed?

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  37. #1037
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    313
    Blizzerk 80mm, had a hell of a time getting the front set up with my conventual tape method. For the rear, I was frustrated and just decided I wanted to see what would happen if I basically just put the tire on without at tube. The oem(?) rim strip was already wall to wall so I just put a small patch of flashing tape over the valve hole and smeared some cyanoacrylates over the pinned joint. I'm at a loss, been holding air since installed (8 days)Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20180404_195451704.jpg

  38. #1038
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    313
    Anyone have a clue why this was so simple? The wheelset was loade before converting tubeless. Perhaps the rim strip formed perfectly wall to wall over months of sitting in box with tire/tube. The rim strip tolerance was tight enough that simpley setting the tire and sealing the valve hole was sufficient?

  39. #1039
    Not the fake Jay Leno
    Reputation: Chinman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    345
    Just like a marge lite with a clown shoe rim strip. If you can find a strip thatís the right width, it works great. I have more than a year on my marge lites with no issues at all.

  40. #1040
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    1,723
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Sloth View Post
    Overall, other than the first tape attempt, a very problem free tubeless conversion using the Zip System tape recommended in this thread. I will say that I have done tubeless conversions before but on standard size MTB tires.
    Good job!
    You're obviously way smarter than watermonkey.

  41. #1041
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watermonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    1,055
    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    Good job!
    You're obviously way smarter than watermonkey.
    Well, he is a Dr. I only play one on TV.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  42. #1042
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DirtyHun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    1,198
    Converted my front to split tube with OS Endurance for the new JJ 4.8 I mounted. So far, seems to be holding.
    2016 El Oso Grande
    2018 Stolen Zeke
    90's Skykomish

  43. #1043
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    49
    Hello all. I am a week into my ghetto tubeless and have a puncture and tear which will require me to remove my tire.

    With that I have some questions that I hope you can help me with.

    Background: ghetto tubeless on a 2018 mongoose argus comp with stock wheels using vinyl cabinet liner vinyl for the padding and spacing and gorilla tape for the initial seal. Sealed on the first try last week. Road about 40 to 50 miles so far with no issues. Neither tire or rim is tubeless ready. 4.9" 140 TPI ARISUN big fatty 26 tires. 100mm exposure rims with big holes.

    I need to remove the tire completely to stitch another side wall, patch it and patch a puncture from today's ride.

    Questions:
    1) Are there any precautions when pouring out the existing Orange seal into a container for recycling it back into the wheel when I'm done later?

    2) Should I clean all of the existing or potentially dried orange seal completely off the rim and around valve or is it okay and/or advised to leave some? I'm thinking that the overlapped bead hook (per my method) needs to be clean and of course the inside of the tire where I need to patch it.

    3) I'm sure there is build up around the valve stem but I kind of want to keep that as is. What do you think does that need to be clean and redone as well?

    I haven't taken the tire off yet but I'm nervous of what it looks like on the inside and to have to redo it since things went so perfectly last week..

    4) I have no orange seal available to me or at any LBS. I only currently own and have access to some green slime. There is stans available but I can't do a $35 LBS premium this week.. I think I need to use at least 1 to 2 oz of slime mixed with orange seal to get things back up to a full eight ounces. Is it ok to mix these sealants?

    Cheers and thanks in advance for chiming in on my questions.

  44. #1044
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    3,098
    If you have a tear in the tire the tire is done. You cant run it tubeless anymore.

    If it was a simple small puncture the sealant should have taken care of it.

    Slime from most stores is completely useless for this purpose. Doesnt not seal a low pressure tire, so a waste of money there. Slime can be mixed with some sealants (ok with older stans) but may not seal tire correctly.

    And no never clean the tire out. You will open any punctures the sealant already took care of.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.


  45. #1045
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    49
    I had a 1 inch side wall tear that was stitched up and patched before running tubeless and no issues there. So my thoughts are to patch this one all the same which would require cleaning the tire.

    There is no leak on the sidewall since the tear is not all the way through. however I will still patch it. the orange seal did seal the puncture today but took a bit longer than I expected.

    since there is a sidewall tear I am also going to repair the puncture and clean off the orange seal from the inside since I am in there.

    I won't mix into slime then and guess I will just have to wait until I can get more orange seal

  46. #1046
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,113
    I never put more than 4 oz of Stanz in my 4" tires so maybe you could get by with less than 8 oz of Orange Seal. See how much you can save, if it's 6 oz or more go for it and try a short ride first just in case.
    Latitude 61

  47. #1047
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    433
    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    I never put more than 4 oz of Stanz in my 4" tires so maybe you could get by with less than 8 oz of Orange Seal. See how much you can save, if it's 6 oz or more go for it and try a short ride first just in case.
    Agreed.

  48. #1048
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    1
    Complete newbie, thorns have been a nightmare with my Specialized Fatboy Ground Control tires and tubes. Tried the goriila tape method w/ 6 oz Stan's and Stan's valves. I did need a compressor to get them to air up. Was ready to give up on the system after 3 days or not holding air for 24 hrs. Then on the 4th day checked and both tires held beautifully, and have done so for a week. The only reason I didn't take it apart right away was because I was too busy.

    I rode in my woods last night with are nothing but thorns and didn't have any issues this morning. My advice is hang in there and don't ditch it too quickly. So far I super happy with the set up. I think by issues were due to the crappy tires, but the Stan's did it's magic and all is good for now.

Page 11 of 11 FirstFirst ... 7891011

Members who have read this thread: 209

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

mtbr.com and the ConsumerReview Network are business units of Invenda Corporation

(C) Copyright 1996-2018. All Rights Reserved.