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  1. #1001
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    ^Could be how porous the tire sidewalls are too. Just saying... I have always used full ust rims, amazing how tire porosity varies, even from one to another of the same tire. I now weigh them and take the heaviest one, use less sealant to even out the difference in weight.
    I ride with the best dogs... Roxie, Calli, Ocee, Violet, Wiley, Sable, and Jet.




  2. #1002
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsieb View Post
    ^Could be how porous the tire sidewalls are too. Just saying... I have always used full ust rims, amazing how tire porosity varies, even from one to another of the same tire. I now weigh them and take the heaviest one, use less sealant to even out the difference in weight.
    Nope, I've run both sets of tires with both tubeless set ups with the same result.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  3. #1003
    Rippin da fAt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Something just dawned on me. I switched from Fattystrippers to Sunringle tape on my Mulefuts in the fall when I put the studded D5s on. In Feb. went back to Barbagazzis.

    I checking and adding air every third day or so with the Fattystrippers. The current set up with the Sunringle tape hasn't lost 1 psi in the last month.

    Could be user error with the valve stem on the Fattystipper but......


    YMV
    Like latex tubes, they seep air.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  4. #1004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Something just dawned on me. I switched from Fattystrippers to Sunringle tape on my Mulefuts in the fall when I put the studded D5s on. In Feb. went back to Barbagazzis.

    I checking and adding air every third day or so with the Fattystrippers. The current set up with the Sunringle tape hasn't lost 1 psi in the last month.

    Could be user error with the valve stem on the Fattystipper but......

    YMV
    Fattystrippers are latex. Latex tubes lose air way faster than rubber tubes. I would expect Fattystrippers to similarly lose pressure. Doh, Banshee beat me to it. My bad for posting before reading the full thread.

  5. #1005
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    Shredded my rear fattystripper somehow and had to walk the bike out of the woods Saturday. My wife is a therapist and has Teraband which is the same crap so I mounted the "green" which is mid grade thickness and more durable. I used rubber cement to create the loop and overlap followed by Elmer's glue spray between the bling tape and Teraband. Fingers crossed that this will hold up or I will switch to the split tube or sunringle tape.

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by chode View Post
    Shredded my rear fattystripper somehow and had to walk the bike out of the woods Saturday. My wife is a therapist and has Teraband which is the same crap so I mounted the "green" which is mid grade thickness and more durable. I used rubber cement to create the loop and overlap followed by Elmer's glue spray between the bling tape and Teraband. Fingers crossed that this will hold up or I will switch to the split tube or sunringle tape.

    Zip Tape

  7. #1007
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    I keep hearing Zip Tape but I cannot find it anywhere. Home Depot shows it but it's unavailable in store and online. Which is sweet.

    Anyone have a link?
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  8. #1008
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    Jeff, try Lowes.

  9. #1009
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    I've never seen it either, and I've tried the online outlets for both Lowe's and Home depot. All I've ever found is thick, tarry, bituthane tape, that would be a nightmare to apply and then remove if needed. Gambit comes on here everytime someone mentions a tubeless method, yet has yet to provide a link to the actual product for sale, or a specific item/product number for it. I believe the stuff to be vaporware.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  10. #1010
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I've never seen it either, and I've tried the online outlets for both Lowe's and Home depot. All I've ever found is thick, tarry, bituthane tape, that would be a nightmare to apply and then remove if needed. Gambit comes on here everytime someone mentions a tubeless method, yet has yet to provide a link to the actual product for sale, or a specific item/product number for it. I believe the stuff to be vaporware.
    3 second search yields a link to Lowes.com.


    https://m.lowes.com/pd/ZIP-System-90...-Tape/50373856

    Use bubble gum and Scotch tape for all I care. Fact is, flashing tape is by FAR the best tape solution if you have the bandwidth to locate it.

    I've also said multiple times - Forti-Flash...Tyvek...flashing tape.

    Zip has a nice balance between flex and adhesion. FortiFlash is extremely sticky, which would cause me concern for later removal. Point is, flashing tape is wide, stretchy, and sticky...and you can pick up one brand or another at any local establishment that carries construction materials.

    So whining about "vaporware" is beyond silly. "Silly" being the most diplomatic word for what I'm really thinking, especially given the number of times I've covered this.

  11. #1011
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    Ohhhhh! Now I know what you're talking about! Yeah, that stuff. Doesn't work. Total nightmare.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  12. #1012
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    heh...nice try.
    Shameful, yet typical
    Last edited by Gambit21; 05-01-2017 at 11:49 PM.

  13. #1013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post

    Zip has a nice balance between flex and adhesion.
    Yes it does, and thank you for posting this (multiple times). It works so well on Mulefut rims (for instance) that there really isn't any good reason I can think of to muck about with anything else.

  14. #1014
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    I could see how zip tape would work nicely, although how do you deal w the exposed sticky side in rim cutouts? Assuming you want to run sans stripper for more weight savings.

    Maybe one wrap of shrinkwrap and then the zip for durability.

  15. #1015
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    If you're worried about the minuscule amount of weight that is the rim strip after you've committed to that rim and tire....

    No weenies!

  16. #1016
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    Bling strips from Fattystripper weigh 100 grams for the pair. When you are running a set of tires that weigh 3.000 grams it's probably not a large impact.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  17. #1017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    If you're worried about the minuscule amount of weight that is the rim strip after you've committed to that rim and tire....

    No weenies!
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Bling strips from Fattystripper weigh 100 grams for the pair. When you are running a set of tires that weigh 3.000 grams it's probably not a large impact.
    Ah, okay. I'm running carbons so I have no experience w fattystrippers. Somehow had the impression they were heavy (so as to be durable from punctures and stuff).

  18. #1018
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    I converted mine to tubeless using the split tube method this wknd.

    I installed used VeeRubber Vee8s (72 TPI) on Holy Darryls. My LBS only had Axiom downhill tubes in 24x2.75, so they are thicker (and heavier) than needed, but it's what I could get.

    Getting the tire to seat on the rim was pretty easy; I used a ratchet strap, and using a floor pump I had no issue getting it to inflate on the first go.

    I had seen a YouTube video that showed a guy using a syringe to inject the sealant directly through the tire, and since the tubes I got don't have a removable stem, I figured I'd give that a go. I used an 18 gauge needle (fairly large) attached to a 100 ml syringe, and it was, overall, a failure. As one might expect, the Stan's sealed the hole in the needle before I could push 100 ml of sealant into the tire, let alone refilling the syringe to add more. I went through all three needles that I had before breaking the seal between the tire and rim and squirting it in that way.

    Then I reinflated, took them for a ride, and lost no air. Overnight now, and still no air lost. I'm happy, and glad I read this megathread.

  19. #1019
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    Help me out.

    I've done 3 sets of Mulefuts using Fattystripper and Sunringle tape. All using the Fattystripper Bling strips and their valves. All were successful. My latest endeavor was the Sunringle tape on my bike. It holds air for weeks.......

    Guy at work buys a Sturgis NX 1x11 and I suggest he go tubeless. Offer to help as I've done it many times.

    Put the bling strip on, tape goes on without any hiccups, put the valve cores in (no gasket or tube material like the other times) put the tire on, Stan's inserted through the valve and air it up.

    Front hisses like crazy out of the cutouts. Basically went flat three times in five minutes. We did the Stan's shake and it stopped after about 15 minutes.

    Back seems to hold air.

    We go for a 20 minute ride.

    Guy goes home and both tires are flat in morning. From 15 psi to flat in a day.

    Any thoughts?

    "No good deed goes unpunished, do good deeds anyway"
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  20. #1020
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    I had Mulefuts go flat on initial tubeless setup and at a couple tire changes. Initially on one it was leaking around the valve stem. I took the stem out and added a piece of old tube to help seal it. Other times I just had to do a bunch of Stan's shaking.

    Are the Minions that come on the NX the EXO/Tubeless ones? Maybe the sidewalls aren't sealed up with Stan's yet? I've had several pairs of tires that first set up tubeless they leaked until they weeped enough out the sidewalls until the sealed up well. I even had a pair of used FBF's I put on this fall that had Orange Seal residue that still weeped Stan's out the sidewalls for a bit

  21. #1021
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    They are the Minions, with pretty light tubes ironically.

    I didn't notice any weeping but I didn't ask the guy if he noticed it after he left my place.

    The front tire had a VERY large leak coming from the cutouts/spokeholes immediately after it was mounted.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  22. #1022
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    If it is leaking around the cutouts and spokeholes, it's got to be leaking around the valve. If you did not build up the valve with the extra strip of rubber, that is probably why it is leaking. That is where I've had the most problem getting a good seal. This is really the weakest link with the fatty stripper.

  23. #1023
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    Hi-diddly-ho, neighboreenos!

    I am going to go the split tube method on some 29ers, 26ers and some 24ers (I have some of the 24" Large Marges Surly made).

    So my understanding is that I should use the following tubes for these various wheel sizes

    29er- 24" tubes
    26er - 20" tubes
    24er - ? 18" or 16" any ideas?

    What size tube should I use for the 24er. A 18" or a 16"?

    Also what tube width tube should I use for these various rims. The 24 and 26 rims are both 65mm wide and the 29 is 31.5 mm wide? (Also is split tube just a fat bike thing, or can I do it on the skinny 31.5mm 29er rims?)

    Thanks

  24. #1024
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    Used Tyvek tape (1.88" width) to set up tubeless on my 65mm carbon LB fatbike rims. Went on super easy and holding air without issue. Aired up with a floor pump.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1464.jpg
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1466.jpg
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1465.jpg

  25. #1025
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    Schwalbe tubeless 40mm valve stems are the best for fat rims. There is enough thread for shallow rim installs easily

  26. #1026
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    Quote Originally Posted by smporter View Post
    Hi-diddly-ho, neighboreenos!

    I am going to go the split tube method on some 29ers, 26ers and some 24ers (I have some of the 24" Large Marges Surly made).

    So my understanding is that I should use the following tubes for these various wheel sizes

    29er- 24" tubes
    26er - 20" tubes
    24er - ? 18" or 16" any ideas?

    What size tube should I use for the 24er. A 18" or a 16"?

    Also what tube width tube should I use for these various rims. The 24 and 26 rims are both 65mm wide and the 29 is 31.5 mm wide? (Also is split tube just a fat bike thing, or can I do it on the skinny 31.5mm 29er rims?)

    Thanks
    I have used a 24" tube on a 26" wheel with great success. Using a tube that is 2" smaller than the rim regardless of the rim size should work. Obviously they do not make a 22, so I would try a 20" tube on a 24" rim.

    For a 80mm rim, a 2.4-2.75" tube will work. I have found that Q-Tubes makes a 24"x2.4-2.75" with a removable core presta valve.

    To size the tube, use the small number (in this case 2.4) divide by two to get the radius, then multiply by pi, the convert from inches to mm. The math looks like this 2.4/2 x 3.14 x 25.4 mm/in = 95.7mm. That is roughly the width of the split tube once cut open. While I have not tried it on a 100mm rim, I expect you would get enough stretch to make it work.

  27. #1027
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    This is where I bought my "vaporware" (aka Zip Flashing Tape):

    Zip System Flashing Tape 3 3/4" 90' Water Sealing Tape S-13773 | eBay

    It stretches nicely for a wrinkle free install, is easy to trim and can be removed if needed.

    BTW, it is made for building components called Zip Wall. One could find the local retailer of Zip Wall and get the tape there. (hint, its likely a lumberyard)

  28. #1028
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    Im trying sunringle tape and because i always have issues with stans valves i got e thirteens. Hopefully they tighten up against the rim... seems like they give you a bunch of spacers and o rings.... fingers crossed.
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  29. #1029
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    Just went tubeless yesterday on tuesday

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  30. #1030
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    I have two sets of wheels, a good set that I swap between studded Dillingers for winter and good rolling Knards for the summer. My stock wheelset is fitted with some Framed Minnesota tires for the transition times of spring and fall. Both wheelsets are set up tubeless. I just swapped. To my transition wheelset. The damn front wheel would not hold air for longer than an hour. In tearing it apart I found that on the Rolling Daryl I had used Orange Seal tape with a narrow strip of Tesa tape on each side to make it a bit wider. Orange Seal valve stem was installed without an o-ring or other additional gasket. The Orange Seal tape seemed like it had degraded over a year and a half.

    The fix:

    Removal of all tape
    Install of Zip tape filling entire bed
    Install gasket on stem made of a small piece in inner tube with hole made with paper punch.
    3-4 oz home brew sealant ( 1:3 latex and windshield washer fluid & a bit of glitter)

    Result:

    Rock solid. It sealed without even having to take it for a ride.

    Dillingers swapped onto the Mulefuts with existing Zip tape with no problem.

    Bottom line, the Zip tape seems to hold up better than Orange Seal and the added thickness helps the bead to seal.

  31. #1031
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    Well, I've converted my studded Wazia's for this winter. My first time going tubeless and I used the split tube method as described here with a foam filler to allow the tire to seat to the bead. I used 24" fat bike tubes and they worked perfectly with the Rolling Daryl rims and Terrene tires.






    My daily wheel may be next after seeing how easy this is to get rolling but I'm curious if you can reuse the split tube to swap tires or if it's too narrow after cutting around the bead to have it seat again?

  32. #1032
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    ..... I'm curious if you can reuse the split tube to swap tires or if it's too narrow after cutting around the bead to have it seat again?
    I reuse mine. Depends on how close you trimmed the tube and how much you want to fiddle with it to get positioned the 2nd time around.

  33. #1033
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    Im trying sunringle tape and because i always have issues with stans valves i got e thirteens. Hopefully they tighten up against the rim... seems like they give you a bunch of spacers and o rings.... fingers crossed.
    Use a No. 14 nylon finishing washer, install with the tapered side toward the rim. This lets the valve rubber projecting through the rim go into an open space, which helps prevent distortion and improves the seal.

    Any good hardware store will have these on the shelf.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tuesday.-nylon-finishing-washer-1.jpg  

    Tubeless Tuesday.-nylon-finishing-washer-2.jpg  

    Yukon Truck
    Novatec / Mulefut 80's
    Tsunami 4.9's

  34. #1034
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    EDIT: Was able to make a trip into the Denver area and found some ZIP System tape at Lowes. It was a major issue to find it in the store, was not in the area listed online for that specific store. Location was in building materials very close to sheet rock tape/trowels.

    Zip tape looks to be of excellent quality.
    Last edited by Dr Sloth; 03-18-2018 at 06:28 AM.

  35. #1035
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    Reporting back after the tubeless conversion using ZIP System tape and Stan's sealant.

    Removed tire/tube from the wheel and cleaned of all dirt with a clean towel. The tape was a bit difficult to apply on the first wheel. Had to remove the first taping attempt but then honed my skills applying the tape the second go around. I found that it was easiest to apply the tape about 5-6" while pressing into the one sidewall of the 80mm rim. With the roll of tape balanced on top, I then pressed the same 5-6" section of tape into the flat section of the rim, filling in the cutout holes, then pressed that same section into the opposite sidewall. I was able to get the tape pressed in with minimal creases on the flat section and no creases on the sidewalls. I did need to trim the tape on the 2nd sidewall but only trimmed at the top of the sidewall. From there, went around both tape edges and pressed the tape edges all the way around.

    Set my valves. Put the tires on, which were tires I had already been using with tubes. Then laid that wheel with tire on a 5 gal plastic bucket. Removed the valve core and sprayed a mildly soapy water mixture to wet the tire bead all the way around without spraying too much for it to drip into the tire. Did that on both sides. Then aired up using my compressor. Tire aired up without problem and soapy bubbles did form around the tire bead. Let the compressed air escape and added 6oz of Stan's Sealant. Installed valve core and aired to max of 30 psi. I then sloshed the Stan's around to make sure and coat the entire inside of the tire/bead. No more bubbles forming. Laid the tire back on the 5 gal bucket and sprayed the soapy mixture again around the entire bead area, no bubbles forming on either side.

    Aired down to about 12 psi both tires. Let it sit for about 3-4 hours. Then aired down to 9F and 10.5R and went for a ride in dry conditions. Short 6 mile ride on trail but when returned home, no air loss. Check this morning and tire pressure on both tires down about .25 psi per tire but it is about 30 degrees cooler today than yesterday so the cold might be impacting the psi.

    Overall, other than the first tape attempt, a very problem free tubeless conversion using the Zip System tape recommended in this thread. I will say that I have done tubeless conversions before but on standard size MTB tires.

  36. #1036
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    If you prick us, do we not bleed?

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  37. #1037
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    Blizzerk 80mm, had a hell of a time getting the front set up with my conventual tape method. For the rear, I was frustrated and just decided I wanted to see what would happen if I basically just put the tire on without at tube. The oem(?) rim strip was already wall to wall so I just put a small patch of flashing tape over the valve hole and smeared some cyanoacrylates over the pinned joint. I'm at a loss, been holding air since installed (8 days)Tubeless Tuesday.-img_20180404_195451704.jpg

  38. #1038
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    Anyone have a clue why this was so simple? The wheelset was loade before converting tubeless. Perhaps the rim strip formed perfectly wall to wall over months of sitting in box with tire/tube. The rim strip tolerance was tight enough that simpley setting the tire and sealing the valve hole was sufficient?

  39. #1039
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    Just like a marge lite with a clown shoe rim strip. If you can find a strip thatís the right width, it works great. I have more than a year on my marge lites with no issues at all.

  40. #1040
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Sloth View Post
    Overall, other than the first tape attempt, a very problem free tubeless conversion using the Zip System tape recommended in this thread. I will say that I have done tubeless conversions before but on standard size MTB tires.
    Good job!
    You're obviously way smarter than watermonkey.

  41. #1041
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    Good job!
    You're obviously way smarter than watermonkey.
    Well, he is a Dr. I only play one on TV.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  42. #1042
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    Converted my front to split tube with OS Endurance for the new JJ 4.8 I mounted. So far, seems to be holding.
    2016 El Oso Grande
    2018 Stolen Zeke
    90's Skykomish

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