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  1. #1001
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    ^Could be how porous the tire sidewalls are too. Just saying... I have always used full ust rims, amazing how tire porosity varies, even from one to another of the same tire. I now weigh them and take the heaviest one, use less sealant to even out the difference in weight.
    I ride with the best people.




  2. #1002
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsieb View Post
    ^Could be how porous the tire sidewalls are too. Just saying... I have always used full ust rims, amazing how tire porosity varies, even from one to another of the same tire. I now weigh them and take the heaviest one, use less sealant to even out the difference in weight.
    Nope, I've run both sets of tires with both tubeless set ups with the same result.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  3. #1003
    Rippin da fAt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Something just dawned on me. I switched from Fattystrippers to Sunringle tape on my Mulefuts in the fall when I put the studded D5s on. In Feb. went back to Barbagazzis.

    I checking and adding air every third day or so with the Fattystrippers. The current set up with the Sunringle tape hasn't lost 1 psi in the last month.

    Could be user error with the valve stem on the Fattystipper but......


    YMV
    Like latex tubes, they seep air.
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  4. #1004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Something just dawned on me. I switched from Fattystrippers to Sunringle tape on my Mulefuts in the fall when I put the studded D5s on. In Feb. went back to Barbagazzis.

    I checking and adding air every third day or so with the Fattystrippers. The current set up with the Sunringle tape hasn't lost 1 psi in the last month.

    Could be user error with the valve stem on the Fattystipper but......

    YMV
    Fattystrippers are latex. Latex tubes lose air way faster than rubber tubes. I would expect Fattystrippers to similarly lose pressure. Doh, Banshee beat me to it. My bad for posting before reading the full thread.

  5. #1005
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    Shredded my rear fattystripper somehow and had to walk the bike out of the woods Saturday. My wife is a therapist and has Teraband which is the same crap so I mounted the "green" which is mid grade thickness and more durable. I used rubber cement to create the loop and overlap followed by Elmer's glue spray between the bling tape and Teraband. Fingers crossed that this will hold up or I will switch to the split tube or sunringle tape.

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by chode View Post
    Shredded my rear fattystripper somehow and had to walk the bike out of the woods Saturday. My wife is a therapist and has Teraband which is the same crap so I mounted the "green" which is mid grade thickness and more durable. I used rubber cement to create the loop and overlap followed by Elmer's glue spray between the bling tape and Teraband. Fingers crossed that this will hold up or I will switch to the split tube or sunringle tape.

    Zip Tape

  7. #1007
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    I keep hearing Zip Tape but I cannot find it anywhere. Home Depot shows it but it's unavailable in store and online. Which is sweet.

    Anyone have a link?
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  8. #1008
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    Jeff, try Lowes.

  9. #1009
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    I've never seen it either, and I've tried the online outlets for both Lowe's and Home depot. All I've ever found is thick, tarry, bituthane tape, that would be a nightmare to apply and then remove if needed. Gambit comes on here everytime someone mentions a tubeless method, yet has yet to provide a link to the actual product for sale, or a specific item/product number for it. I believe the stuff to be vaporware.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  10. #1010
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I've never seen it either, and I've tried the online outlets for both Lowe's and Home depot. All I've ever found is thick, tarry, bituthane tape, that would be a nightmare to apply and then remove if needed. Gambit comes on here everytime someone mentions a tubeless method, yet has yet to provide a link to the actual product for sale, or a specific item/product number for it. I believe the stuff to be vaporware.
    3 second search yields a link to Lowes.com.


    https://m.lowes.com/pd/ZIP-System-90...-Tape/50373856

    Use bubble gum and Scotch tape for all I care. Fact is, flashing tape is by FAR the best tape solution if you have the bandwidth to locate it.

    I've also said multiple times - Forti-Flash...Tyvek...flashing tape.

    Zip has a nice balance between flex and adhesion. FortiFlash is extremely sticky, which would cause me concern for later removal. Point is, flashing tape is wide, stretchy, and sticky...and you can pick up one brand or another at any local establishment that carries construction materials.

    So whining about "vaporware" is beyond silly. "Silly" being the most diplomatic word for what I'm really thinking, especially given the number of times I've covered this.

  11. #1011
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    Ohhhhh! Now I know what you're talking about! Yeah, that stuff. Doesn't work. Total nightmare.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  12. #1012
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    heh...nice try.
    Shameful, yet typical
    Last edited by Gambit21; 05-01-2017 at 11:49 PM.

  13. #1013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post

    Zip has a nice balance between flex and adhesion.
    Yes it does, and thank you for posting this (multiple times). It works so well on Mulefut rims (for instance) that there really isn't any good reason I can think of to muck about with anything else.

  14. #1014
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    I could see how zip tape would work nicely, although how do you deal w the exposed sticky side in rim cutouts? Assuming you want to run sans stripper for more weight savings.

    Maybe one wrap of shrinkwrap and then the zip for durability.

  15. #1015
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    If you're worried about the minuscule amount of weight that is the rim strip after you've committed to that rim and tire....

    No weenies!

  16. #1016
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    Bling strips from Fattystripper weigh 100 grams for the pair. When you are running a set of tires that weigh 3.000 grams it's probably not a large impact.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  17. #1017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    If you're worried about the minuscule amount of weight that is the rim strip after you've committed to that rim and tire....

    No weenies!
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Bling strips from Fattystripper weigh 100 grams for the pair. When you are running a set of tires that weigh 3.000 grams it's probably not a large impact.
    Ah, okay. I'm running carbons so I have no experience w fattystrippers. Somehow had the impression they were heavy (so as to be durable from punctures and stuff).

  18. #1018
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    I converted mine to tubeless using the split tube method this wknd.

    I installed used VeeRubber Vee8s (72 TPI) on Holy Darryls. My LBS only had Axiom downhill tubes in 24x2.75, so they are thicker (and heavier) than needed, but it's what I could get.

    Getting the tire to seat on the rim was pretty easy; I used a ratchet strap, and using a floor pump I had no issue getting it to inflate on the first go.

    I had seen a YouTube video that showed a guy using a syringe to inject the sealant directly through the tire, and since the tubes I got don't have a removable stem, I figured I'd give that a go. I used an 18 gauge needle (fairly large) attached to a 100 ml syringe, and it was, overall, a failure. As one might expect, the Stan's sealed the hole in the needle before I could push 100 ml of sealant into the tire, let alone refilling the syringe to add more. I went through all three needles that I had before breaking the seal between the tire and rim and squirting it in that way.

    Then I reinflated, took them for a ride, and lost no air. Overnight now, and still no air lost. I'm happy, and glad I read this megathread.

  19. #1019
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    Help me out.

    I've done 3 sets of Mulefuts using Fattystripper and Sunringle tape. All using the Fattystripper Bling strips and their valves. All were successful. My latest endeavor was the Sunringle tape on my bike. It holds air for weeks.......

    Guy at work buys a Sturgis NX 1x11 and I suggest he go tubeless. Offer to help as I've done it many times.

    Put the bling strip on, tape goes on without any hiccups, put the valve cores in (no gasket or tube material like the other times) put the tire on, Stan's inserted through the valve and air it up.

    Front hisses like crazy out of the cutouts. Basically went flat three times in five minutes. We did the Stan's shake and it stopped after about 15 minutes.

    Back seems to hold air.

    We go for a 20 minute ride.

    Guy goes home and both tires are flat in morning. From 15 psi to flat in a day.

    Any thoughts?

    "No good deed goes unpunished, do good deeds anyway"
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  20. #1020
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    I had Mulefuts go flat on initial tubeless setup and at a couple tire changes. Initially on one it was leaking around the valve stem. I took the stem out and added a piece of old tube to help seal it. Other times I just had to do a bunch of Stan's shaking.

    Are the Minions that come on the NX the EXO/Tubeless ones? Maybe the sidewalls aren't sealed up with Stan's yet? I've had several pairs of tires that first set up tubeless they leaked until they weeped enough out the sidewalls until the sealed up well. I even had a pair of used FBF's I put on this fall that had Orange Seal residue that still weeped Stan's out the sidewalls for a bit

  21. #1021
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    They are the Minions, with pretty light tubes ironically.

    I didn't notice any weeping but I didn't ask the guy if he noticed it after he left my place.

    The front tire had a VERY large leak coming from the cutouts/spokeholes immediately after it was mounted.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  22. #1022
    Not the fake Jay Leno
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    If it is leaking around the cutouts and spokeholes, it's got to be leaking around the valve. If you did not build up the valve with the extra strip of rubber, that is probably why it is leaking. That is where I've had the most problem getting a good seal. This is really the weakest link with the fatty stripper.

  23. #1023
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    Hi-diddly-ho, neighboreenos!

    I am going to go the split tube method on some 29ers, 26ers and some 24ers (I have some of the 24" Large Marges Surly made).

    So my understanding is that I should use the following tubes for these various wheel sizes

    29er- 24" tubes
    26er - 20" tubes
    24er - ? 18" or 16" any ideas?

    What size tube should I use for the 24er. A 18" or a 16"?

    Also what tube width tube should I use for these various rims. The 24 and 26 rims are both 65mm wide and the 29 is 31.5 mm wide? (Also is split tube just a fat bike thing, or can I do it on the skinny 31.5mm 29er rims?)

    Thanks

  24. #1024
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    Used Tyvek tape (1.88" width) to set up tubeless on my 65mm carbon LB fatbike rims. Went on super easy and holding air without issue. Aired up with a floor pump.

    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1464.jpg
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1466.jpg
    Tubeless Tuesday.-img_1465.jpg

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