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  1. #1
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    Tubeless tape idea.

    So I'm going to turn my Krampus and Rabbit hole rims into tubeless. Looks like a lot of trial and error has happened over the years.
    I'm curious has anyone tried or thought of using Duct-Work tape with the Aluminum backing thats used on HVAC systems. Reason I'm thinking of this is because its made to seal in air ducts and is resilient to chemicals and temperature changes. Look forward to the feedback.

  2. #2
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    It's to stiff and does not have enough flex IMO. I recon unless you put on a large number of wraps then it would split??

  3. #3
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    I suppose the lack of flex makes some sense. Well how about a different speciality tape that doesn't wear out like Gorilla tape seeming does.

  4. #4
    Dr Gadget is IN
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    All of the aluminum tape I've seen is just foil with adhesive. I think foil would be too "damage sensitive", like a balloon. Most of the tapes I've seen used are fiber reinforced.

    The old skinny-rim go-to was filament packing tape, now available as "bi-directional"/woven vs the old "just linear fibers":


    JVCC-762-BD Bi-Directional-Filament-Strapping-Tape

    Available in 4" (and 3", 6", 8", 12" and 19 2/3" for some reason) They list "full width cut" in 6" and 8", so I bet the rest are like Gorilla - 2"=1.88".
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  5. #5
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    X-Treme Tape - Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Tape Check this stuff out I just found. Is meant to be tightly wrapped around itself. looks interesting

    One a second look it doesn't appear this would work in a large application as a rim. Its ment to be pulled 3x the length to work correctly. Also only sticks to itself. so rim would be too big. May have to just stick with Gorilla tape like everyone else
    Last edited by Vistacruise; 08-08-2013 at 05:20 PM.

  6. #6
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    There is another variation that I rely on a lot in model aircraft called Frost-King seal tape. It looks like the above filiment tape but does not fall apart in cold temps(like the above tends to), since slope soaring planes are often flown in cold winter conditions and other tape used for hinges tends to fall off at random times. Awkward....
    '93 Giant Sedona ATX custom
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  7. #7
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    Tubeless tape idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vistacruise View Post
    X-Treme Tape - Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Tape Check this stuff out I just found. Is meant to be tightly wrapped around itself. looks interesting

    One a second look it doesn't appear this would work in a large application as a rim. Its ment to be pulled 3x the length to work correctly. Also only sticks to itself. so rim would be too big. May have to just stick with Gorilla tape like everyone else
    I've used that stuff for a few different applications, and it is really cool. I have some in my bike toolbox, I use it to wrap around my handlebars a couple of times to make a nice nonslip place to attach my light for night races. I also used it to attach high temp heater coil to the fuel injector lines on a veggie burning diesel rabbit I built. While it is very versatile, I don't think it will work well here, because as you said it only sticks to itself. Maybe, with a couple of wraps it would work, but I would still worry about it creeping around on the rim with no adhesive to hold it in place. But for many other things, including leaky pipes, that stuff is awesome.

    But then again.....if it was wide enough, and you were to already be using a rim strip of whatever type, and you were to actually use this in place of a split tube, in that it comes up and over the edge of the rim....hmmm, it would be pretty light too, as it is stretched out...hmmm. I think I like it.

  8. #8
    will rant for food
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    So for a somewhat unrelated application - does this Xtreme tape stuff really self fuse? Like chemically?

    Reeeeeaaaallly? Really really?

    (Please be yes, please be yes)
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  9. #9
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    Tubeless tape idea.

    I don't think it is chemically....but I can't say for sure. If it were fusing by way of a chemical reaction, there would be heat generated, yeah? I'm thinking "fuse" is the wrong word.

  10. #10
    will rant for food
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    Yeah, hence my skepticism. If I were to give them the benefit of the doubt, it would have something to do with the thin sheath that appears to get removed with use, like a Fruit Roll Up. Too good to be true.

    Still, @#$% it, I'll try some.
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  11. #11
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    Tubeless tape idea.

    Yeah, you have to remove the film, but it really doesn't stick to itself until it is stretched and retracts a bit. Cool stuff through, really. You can pick it up at most hardware stores, look in the plumbing section.

  12. #12
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    Anyone ever try using a truck bed liner to seal rims? Pretty airtight and permanent.

  13. #13
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    Re-inventing the wheel here....

  14. #14
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    Tubeless tape idea.

    ^^^. Hey, I'm already toobless with the split tube method, but no reason we shouldn't mind meld a little bit to possibly come up with something lighter and/or more effective. If people didn't think outside the box, I'd still have a boat anchor holding air inside my tires. I guess, what I'm trying to say is, STFU.

  15. #15
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    ive been thinking about cutting 20 in tubes and stretching them onto the wheel, ever the rim strips

  16. #16
    Nemophilist
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    Hey;

    I believe the tape you are referring to is stuff that linemen use to repair cable sheathing when they have to do a repair on high voltage service lines. It is watertight as well. Stretch it tight and do a spiral wrap, but unlike regular electrical tape where the adhesive will slip, this stuff won't. Works really well for that heavy use. I have some. It does not "stick" to anything, but it will not "slip" when it is applied in a wrap over a clean smooth surface. With a good stretch, that "won't slip" turns into "will grip", and very tenaciously. Interesting stuff.

    Not sure it would work in this application. Not much grips a finish like an RD. I'd think you would need something that actually sticks.
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by liquidboarder2k4 View Post
    ive been thinking about cutting 20 in tubes and stretching them onto the wheel, ever the rim strips
    If you are going split tube you want 24"tubes with removable cores. I just did this with NATES on Clownshoes. Q-tubes, 24"X2.25. All this split tube stuff is in the threads. Just pull a search.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vistacruise View Post
    I'm curious has anyone tried or thought of using Duct-Work tape with the Aluminum backing thats used on HVAC systems. Reason I'm thinking of this is because its made to seal in air ducts and is resilient to chemicals and temperature changes. Look forward to the feedback.
    I have successfully used aluminum tape as rim strip on my Marge Lites.

    Here's the recipe I used:
    Aluminum tape with adhesive on one side and the other side clean alu.
    I wrapped one layer of tape (adhesive side to the rim) on a rim before it was built up to a wheel.
    I wrapped one layer of woven fiber reinforced duct tape on top of the alu tape to make it stronger.
    I exactoknifed the spoke holes, so rotating nipples wouldn't crimp up the tape layers.
    I was a bit too nitpicky with the project so I used rubbing alcohol to remove the adhesive from the rim cut out portions so sand etc. debris wouldn't stick.
    I also wrapped one layer of gorilla tape to cover the nipples and then went split tube tubeless.

    In hindsight I would probably wrap the alu tape the other way around and not have the adhesive stick to the rim. There could be some issues with sand and debris sneaking between the rim and alu tape if it is not glued on the rim though. No real info on that since I haven't tested it.

    I found the aluminum tape to be surprisingly resilient. My wheel formed nice bubble-ish domes on the rim cut outs, but the alu tape did not tear or rupture. The woven duct tape however can be seen as imprints on the alu tape, so they are definitely stuck together well under fatbiking pressures.
    I could even press down on the cut out domes and the alu tape did not seem to suffer at all and just bounced back when you let go.


    So my advice is to just have fun and experiment with different ideas to bling out your wheels.
    After all the only reason I did the whole aluminum tape project was to match my silver Hope Pro2 Fatsno hubs.
    Best part is that when there is no adhesive in the cut outs and the rims are clean the alu tape reflects sun nicely and really blings out your wheels .

  19. #19
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    Sandzsteedt, very cool. I'm still undecided if i want to experiment or just go tried and true and run only gorilla tape. My thoughts are to keep the Surly rim strip in place and build up the inside on the rim traditionally sticky side down. Question is do i want to try the aluminum tape above, below, or in between some gorilla tape. I'm not going to be using split tubes.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    Re-inventing the wheel here....
    I guess I should use the subscribe button instead of a snide remark with a dash of humor,all for innovation.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    Re-inventing the wheel here....
    'Twas rather clever, though. And kudos for the feral kid icon- an eight year old man of few words who knew how to be seen and not heard.

  22. #22
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    BTW is anyone using any lightweight foam that doesn't stay compressed after deflation, it would be nice to not have to measure and cut new foam strips every time I want to replace a tire (tear/season change etc.). Foam underlay is good but it's only useful once.

  23. #23
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    Tubeless tape idea.

    Yeah...apologies from this side. On the foam...nope, all of my attempts have compressed. Best thing I have found was the round "caulk-less caulk". After I ran a strip of fancy schmancy patterned duct tape, sticky side up for rim strip, I ran two lines of it, one on each side as close to the edge as I could. Light filament tape over that, and a split tube.

    For what it's worth, next time around, which will be soon I think, I'll be doing a similar set up with the foam for ease of inflation, but using an ultralight split tube, and then tubasti the split tube to the tire...making a tubular fat tire. then I can yank it off, remove all of the foam and worthless tape. Only have the cosmetic rim strip and the new tubular tire. I think it will work tits, and make tire changes easier. Anybody else think I'm a genius?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schott View Post
    Yeah...apologies from this side. On the foam...nope, all of my attempts have compressed. Best thing I have found was the round "caulk-less caulk". After I ran a strip of fancy schmancy patterned duct tape, sticky side up for rim strip, I ran two lines of it, one on each side as close to the edge as I could. Light filament tape over that, and a split tube.

    For what it's worth, next time around, which will be soon I think, I'll be doing a similar set up with the foam for ease of inflation, but using an ultralight split tube, and then tubasti the split tube to the tire...making a tubular fat tire. then I can yank it off, remove all of the foam and worthless tape. Only have the cosmetic rim strip and the new tubular tire. I think it will work tits, and make tire changes easier. Anybody else think I'm a genius?
    I don't think you're a genius, but I agree that is a good idea. I have seen a post where someone has already done some fat tubular tires with actual stitching, but the glue should be good enough if done carefully.

    I am intrigued by the tubeless ideas, but I haven't made the plunge and tried any of them yet. I am not so much interested in weight reduction, but I like the flat resistance and reduced rolling resistance of tubeless.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    BTW is anyone using any lightweight foam that doesn't stay compressed after deflation, it would be nice to not have to measure and cut new foam strips every time I want to replace a tire (tear/season change etc.). Foam underlay is good but it's only useful once.
    You can use craft foam that can be purchased in fabric stores. It's available in different thicknesses and colors, usually 1 or 2 mm, and a billion color choices. It's made of EVA, so it doesn't absorb moisture, but the downside is it's usually sold in 1' x 2' sheets (or smaller), so you have to patch pieces together to make a rim strip.

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