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  1. #1
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    Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?

    Has anyone had good results trying this?
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  2. #2
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    Works great for me.
    I learned about it from someone else on mtbr.
    I have a Marge Lite with 27 tpi Husker Du.
    I made sure the Clown Shoe rim strip was tucked under the rim bead on both sides (fits perfectly), installed the tire, set the beads with a tube, broke one side free, removed the tube, added Stan's valve with core removed, laid wheel with loose bead side down on a bucket and hit it with a blast of air from a pancake nailer compressor. Popped right on. Then I added Stan's through the valve, re-installed the valve core, re-inflated and did the Stan's shake/rotate procedure. It has held air perfectly. The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.

  3. #3
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    Re: Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?

    Wouldn't a Rolling Darryl strip be better for this application?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraspontane View Post
    Wouldn't a Rolling Darryl strip be better for this application?
    since the RD's are 82mm it seems so but never tried it.

  5. #5
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    I've use this method and it's been great. Have 120 Nate and Knard running at 6 - 8 psi with no problems. Went down to 3 psi for a snow ride with the Knard in rear and had some burping so went back to 5 psi and it's been fine.

  6. #6
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    Interesting, would this be any lighter than a split tube setup (without foam)?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkorn View Post
    I've use this method and it's been great. Have 120 Nate and Knard running at 6 - 8 psi with no problems. Went down to 3 psi for a snow ride with the Knard in rear and had some burping so went back to 5 psi and it's been fine.
    bobkorn, did put a second strip in as well, or are you running just the clown shoe rim strip? I like the simplicity of this over the split tube or Gorilla tape versions...
    do it right, or do it twice....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by masta_panda View Post
    bobkorn, did put a second strip in as well, or are you running just the clown shoe rim strip? I like the simplicity of this over the split tube or Gorilla tape versions...
    I have both a Marge Lite and Clownshoe strip. Did it right off because when I first read about this method, the bulging was an issue and didn't want to re-do it. Can't recommend this method enough. It's a simple, easy and clean way to go tubeless.

  9. #9
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    Awesome, time to order some CS rim strips then. This also should be way better than split tube for swapping tires out too!
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  10. #10
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    Works great so far! 120 TPI Hudu. Only the clownshoe rim strip. Set it up on the rear a couple weeks ago and haven't lost any air yet. 5-10 psi on a variety of snow/dirt. Bulges quite a bit, but it doesn't seem to be an issue. We'll see how well it holds up.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    I made sure the Clown Shoe rim strip was tucked under the rim bead on both sides
    anyone got a pic of the clown rim strip installed on a margelite?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    anyone got a pic of the clown rim strip installed on a margelite?
    I can take one when I get into the shop today for your viewing pleasure. The strip basically runs the full width of the inside, including the rim shoulder, and the tire sits ON the strip.
    do it right, or do it twice....

  13. #13
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    ok, I got it. rim shoulder = bead seat, which the tire sits on. clear as day, no need for a pic. Thanks MP

  14. #14
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    Sure thing wade, let us know how it works out for you!
    do it right, or do it twice....

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.
    Just to clarify, because I'm a total newb: The clownshoe rim strip was still visible through the cutouts and the Marge Lite strips were on the inside? or is it the other way around?
    That creep can roll, man.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    Works great for me.
    The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.
    Not only lighter but if one wanted to add some color with the ribbon that would be perfect.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecwashere7 View Post
    Just to clarify, because I'm a total newb: The clownshoe rim strip was still visible through the cutouts and the Marge Lite strips were on the inside? or is it the other way around?
    I went with ML strip first, CS over that. Don't think it matters though.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkorn View Post
    I went with ML strip first, CS over that. Don't think it matters though.
    I think it would matter, that way it keeps the Marge lite strip from potentially moving around so that one first, and the CS strip over it. I know it's going to bulge no matter what, but at least only one strip has sealant on it that way too.... my 2 cents though.
    do it right, or do it twice....

  19. #19
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    my prayers have been answered. sounds so simple. CS strips are getting ordered up

  20. #20
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    I have a couple hundred kms on my tubeless setup: marge lites, just clownshoe rim strips, stans valves and sealant with Vee Snowshoes.

    Zero problems to date.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by masta_panda View Post
    I think it would matter, that way it keeps the Marge lite strip from potentially moving around so that one first, and the CS strip over it. I know it's going to bulge no matter what, but at least only one strip has sealant on it that way too.... my 2 cents though.
    Makes a lot more than "2 cents". I never thought about it when I did it because the ML strip was already in place so I just left it as it was.

  22. #22
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    Going to give this method a shot. I am thinking if I just do the CS rim strip and one layer of regular duct tape over, should work also. I would imagine 1 layer of duct tape is lighter than a ML rim strip, and cheaper. (This to prevent the strip from bulging too much).

    Just picked up some 120 tpi Knards to replace my 27's, so I removed all the gunked up gorilla tape and the red duct tape "rim strip". Should be a significant weight savings on the wheels as this is my SS Pugs that I'll use for Summer trail riding.

    Thanks for the idea.

  23. #23
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    Installed the strip an I am amazed on how perfectly the strip fits into the rim. You'd swear it was made for it. One strip of regular duct tape, tube and 25-30 psi and it looked great, no over bulging out the holes. Going to leave it them around 20 psi until I do the conversion, but it seems pretty fool-proof so far. Looks like the way to go with Marge Lite rims.

  24. #24
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    Very interested in this setup. Also considering something similar for my Rolling Darryls. Please keep the feedback coming.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
    Very interested in this setup. Also considering something similar for my Rolling Darryls. Please keep the feedback coming.
    What else do you want to know? Tubeless on a Fat bike is an interesting conversation without a doubt, however, the reason for it changes from person to person. I weighed a set yesterday I did for a customer, the tubeless setup requirements for sealant are so high that it actually ADDS weight to the wheel set, by almost a full pound for the set. Kind of a bummer. ..
    do it right, or do it twice....

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    I primarily want it for thorns, etc. Been using Stans for a long time and swear by it. I just don't like dealing with tubes.

    I have seen a couple posts where people are just using Clown Shoe rim strips. I am also looking into some wide Stans tape. I do not want to use duct tape due to the breakdown over time with the sealant. The question is mainly around using a CS strip and whether anything else is needed.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
    I primarily want it for thorns, etc. Been using Stans for a long time and swear by it. I just don't like dealing with tubes.

    I have seen a couple posts where people are just using Clown Shoe rim strips. I am also looking into some wide Stans tape. I do not want to use duct tape due to the breakdown over time with the sealant. The question is mainly around using a CS strip and whether anything else is needed.
    Stans is a great product, I prefer orange seal as it coats better, but to each their own. Gorilla tape doesn't break down the same w way that regular duct tape does, however, it does absorb sealant.
    Using a cs strip by itself will cause a lot of buldging, hence using two strips, one Marge Lite, one cs. It does work, however it can be tricky to seal. Id suggest watching the video that golden bike shop but up regarding seating the tire bead first, and going from there. I can also walk you through it if you'd like.
    do it right, or do it twice....

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by masta_panda View Post
    What else do you want to know? Tubeless on a Fat bike is an interesting conversation without a doubt, however, the reason for it changes from person to person. I weighed a set yesterday I did for a customer, the tubeless setup requirements for sealant are so high that it actually ADDS weight to the wheel set, by almost a full pound for the set. Kind of a bummer. ..
    How much sealant did you use? I have had great success with using 4oz per wheel.

  29. #29
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    Good job! Any updates from anyone using this method??

    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    Works great for me.
    I learned about it from someone else on mtbr.
    I have a Marge Lite with 27 tpi Husker Du.
    I made sure the Clown Shoe rim strip was tucked under the rim bead on both sides (fits perfectly), installed the tire, set the beads with a tube, broke one side free, removed the tube, added Stan's valve with core removed, laid wheel with loose bead side down on a bucket and hit it with a blast of air from a pancake nailer compressor. Popped right on. Then I added Stan's through the valve, re-installed the valve core, re-inflated and did the Stan's shake/rotate procedure. It has held air perfectly. The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.
    Hi, does anyone have any update on using this method??

  30. #30
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    2500 miles since February, I'm about to put on my 3rd set of tires. So far, so good, it's been trouble free.
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  31. #31
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    It's been solid for me too. Rear was holding air all through offseason, just had to add some sealant to front (dried out) and it's back to normal again too.

    When you look at how it's setup, it's easy to understand why it works so well.

    Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-20141123_201736.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-20141123_201736.jpg  


  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraspontane View Post
    Wouldn't a Rolling Darryl strip be better for this application?
    Anyone set up with Darryl strip?

  33. #33
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    thanks for the replys

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    Is everyone running with two rim strips, just CS, or some alternate method?

  35. #35
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    I used just the CS rim strip with a marge lite and 120tpi HuDu for a few hundred miles this summer - worked great, not a single burp but I didn't run low pressure.

    I don't think the RD rim strip would work as well, the CS perfectly fits under the bead of the marge lite rim.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by backen View Post
    Is everyone running with two rim strips, just CS, or some alternate method?
    Just the cs strip, nothing else, no tape and 4-6 oz. of Stan's
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    After looking at all the other options, I am so psyched to set it up this way. Thanks for the input, and so quickly. I have been agonizing over this for a week now.

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    Holy hell. Totally missed this thread. Such a nice and tidy fit. Shweet.

    And if Gigantic's been bombing on them that long trouble free I'd call it field tested fer sure.

  39. #39
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    This is too cool!

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    Stoked to have found this thread as well, but curious to know about the weight thing. So does this method shave off the weight of fullsize tubes? Or would running 2.75"dh tubes be a similar weight savings?

  41. #41
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    if you are running with tubes, then you need a rim strip as well.
    this uses the bigger rim strip, but eliminates both tubes. so obviously it saves weight.
    once I have the stuff to set it up and if I remember I will try to document it.

  42. #42
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    So I started down this path but the strip didn't sit real clean on the bead shelf, but came up the sides a bit. Do you guys just push it so the "slack" are in the center a bit? I ended up going gorilla tape but have the strips to try in the future potentially.

  43. #43
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    I needed to trim the clownshoe rim strip a bit... maybe an eight of an inch. Worked like a charm after that.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by thechickencow View Post
    So I started down this path but the strip didn't sit real clean on the bead shelf, but came up the sides a bit. Do you guys just push it so the "slack" are in the center a bit? I ended up going gorilla tape but have the strips to try in the future potentially.
    Center the strip and well as you can, leave it going up the sides, the bead will seat much better that way. if you need to, use a tube to seat the bead, then install the tubeless valve stem.
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  45. #45
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    I'd snapped a pic, should it look like this?

    Dillinger 5 install by jay1441, on Flickr

  46. #46
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    that looks perfect!
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    Rear is all set, seems to be working great!

  48. #48
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    Any updates on the success of this set up?

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by djk69 View Post
    Any updates on the success of this set up?
    What's to report? After 11 months, 2 sets of tires and 2500 miles, mine are still going strong.
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  50. #50
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    Idea! Tubeless Setup

    I ended up having a little bit of a hard time. The front went without too much of a fight but the back refused every attempt. at one point I was taking pictures but was running into problem after problem and kind of re-focused on the job. based on info here and my experience my recommended setup is (use at your own risk)


    remove stock rim strip
    insert clown shoe rim strip
    put tire on and put tube back in and seat tire bead with clown shoe strip, leave overnight inflated.
    deflate tube and break 1 side of tire bead, pull out tube, insert stans valve, remove valve core. inflate tire and re-seat the broken bead. let deflate and add stans sealant through the valve port (I use the small stans bottle and then refill it.) I put two small bottles in the front tire and 3 in the back (which I believe is a lot less than what others are adding).
    put the valve core back and re-inflate to a decent pressure and do the stans tubeless shake etc.
    I have a little under 100 miles on it and it is flawless thus far

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