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  1. #1
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    Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?

    Has anyone had good results trying this?

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    Works great for me.
    I learned about it from someone else on mtbr.
    I have a Marge Lite with 27 tpi Husker Du.
    I made sure the Clown Shoe rim strip was tucked under the rim bead on both sides (fits perfectly), installed the tire, set the beads with a tube, broke one side free, removed the tube, added Stan's valve with core removed, laid wheel with loose bead side down on a bucket and hit it with a blast of air from a pancake nailer compressor. Popped right on. Then I added Stan's through the valve, re-installed the valve core, re-inflated and did the Stan's shake/rotate procedure. It has held air perfectly. The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.

  3. #3
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    Re: Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?

    Wouldn't a Rolling Darryl strip be better for this application?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraspontane View Post
    Wouldn't a Rolling Darryl strip be better for this application?
    since the RD's are 82mm it seems so but never tried it.

  5. #5
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    I've use this method and it's been great. Have 120 Nate and Knard running at 6 - 8 psi with no problems. Went down to 3 psi for a snow ride with the Knard in rear and had some burping so went back to 5 psi and it's been fine.

  6. #6
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    Interesting, would this be any lighter than a split tube setup (without foam)?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkorn View Post
    I've use this method and it's been great. Have 120 Nate and Knard running at 6 - 8 psi with no problems. Went down to 3 psi for a snow ride with the Knard in rear and had some burping so went back to 5 psi and it's been fine.
    bobkorn, did put a second strip in as well, or are you running just the clown shoe rim strip? I like the simplicity of this over the split tube or Gorilla tape versions...
    do it right, or do it twice....

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by masta_panda View Post
    bobkorn, did put a second strip in as well, or are you running just the clown shoe rim strip? I like the simplicity of this over the split tube or Gorilla tape versions...
    I have both a Marge Lite and Clownshoe strip. Did it right off because when I first read about this method, the bulging was an issue and didn't want to re-do it. Can't recommend this method enough. It's a simple, easy and clean way to go tubeless.

  9. #9
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    Awesome, time to order some CS rim strips then. This also should be way better than split tube for swapping tires out too!
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  10. #10
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    Works great so far! 120 TPI Hudu. Only the clownshoe rim strip. Set it up on the rear a couple weeks ago and haven't lost any air yet. 5-10 psi on a variety of snow/dirt. Bulges quite a bit, but it doesn't seem to be an issue. We'll see how well it holds up.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    I made sure the Clown Shoe rim strip was tucked under the rim bead on both sides
    anyone got a pic of the clown rim strip installed on a margelite?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    anyone got a pic of the clown rim strip installed on a margelite?
    I can take one when I get into the shop today for your viewing pleasure. The strip basically runs the full width of the inside, including the rim shoulder, and the tire sits ON the strip.
    do it right, or do it twice....

  13. #13
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    ok, I got it. rim shoulder = bead seat, which the tire sits on. clear as day, no need for a pic. Thanks MP

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    Sure thing wade, let us know how it works out for you!
    do it right, or do it twice....

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.
    Just to clarify, because I'm a total newb: The clownshoe rim strip was still visible through the cutouts and the Marge Lite strips were on the inside? or is it the other way around?
    That creep can roll, man.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    Works great for me.
    The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.
    Not only lighter but if one wanted to add some color with the ribbon that would be perfect.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecwashere7 View Post
    Just to clarify, because I'm a total newb: The clownshoe rim strip was still visible through the cutouts and the Marge Lite strips were on the inside? or is it the other way around?
    I went with ML strip first, CS over that. Don't think it matters though.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkorn View Post
    I went with ML strip first, CS over that. Don't think it matters though.
    I think it would matter, that way it keeps the Marge lite strip from potentially moving around so that one first, and the CS strip over it. I know it's going to bulge no matter what, but at least only one strip has sealant on it that way too.... my 2 cents though.
    do it right, or do it twice....

  19. #19
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    my prayers have been answered. sounds so simple. CS strips are getting ordered up

  20. #20
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    I have a couple hundred kms on my tubeless setup: marge lites, just clownshoe rim strips, stans valves and sealant with Vee Snowshoes.

    Zero problems to date.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by masta_panda View Post
    I think it would matter, that way it keeps the Marge lite strip from potentially moving around so that one first, and the CS strip over it. I know it's going to bulge no matter what, but at least only one strip has sealant on it that way too.... my 2 cents though.
    Makes a lot more than "2 cents". I never thought about it when I did it because the ML strip was already in place so I just left it as it was.

  22. #22
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    Going to give this method a shot. I am thinking if I just do the CS rim strip and one layer of regular duct tape over, should work also. I would imagine 1 layer of duct tape is lighter than a ML rim strip, and cheaper. (This to prevent the strip from bulging too much).

    Just picked up some 120 tpi Knards to replace my 27's, so I removed all the gunked up gorilla tape and the red duct tape "rim strip". Should be a significant weight savings on the wheels as this is my SS Pugs that I'll use for Summer trail riding.

    Thanks for the idea.

  23. #23
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    Installed the strip an I am amazed on how perfectly the strip fits into the rim. You'd swear it was made for it. One strip of regular duct tape, tube and 25-30 psi and it looked great, no over bulging out the holes. Going to leave it them around 20 psi until I do the conversion, but it seems pretty fool-proof so far. Looks like the way to go with Marge Lite rims.

  24. #24
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    Very interested in this setup. Also considering something similar for my Rolling Darryls. Please keep the feedback coming.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
    Very interested in this setup. Also considering something similar for my Rolling Darryls. Please keep the feedback coming.
    What else do you want to know? Tubeless on a Fat bike is an interesting conversation without a doubt, however, the reason for it changes from person to person. I weighed a set yesterday I did for a customer, the tubeless setup requirements for sealant are so high that it actually ADDS weight to the wheel set, by almost a full pound for the set. Kind of a bummer. ..
    do it right, or do it twice....

  26. #26
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    I primarily want it for thorns, etc. Been using Stans for a long time and swear by it. I just don't like dealing with tubes.

    I have seen a couple posts where people are just using Clown Shoe rim strips. I am also looking into some wide Stans tape. I do not want to use duct tape due to the breakdown over time with the sealant. The question is mainly around using a CS strip and whether anything else is needed.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
    I primarily want it for thorns, etc. Been using Stans for a long time and swear by it. I just don't like dealing with tubes.

    I have seen a couple posts where people are just using Clown Shoe rim strips. I am also looking into some wide Stans tape. I do not want to use duct tape due to the breakdown over time with the sealant. The question is mainly around using a CS strip and whether anything else is needed.
    Stans is a great product, I prefer orange seal as it coats better, but to each their own. Gorilla tape doesn't break down the same w way that regular duct tape does, however, it does absorb sealant.
    Using a cs strip by itself will cause a lot of buldging, hence using two strips, one Marge Lite, one cs. It does work, however it can be tricky to seal. Id suggest watching the video that golden bike shop but up regarding seating the tire bead first, and going from there. I can also walk you through it if you'd like.
    do it right, or do it twice....

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by masta_panda View Post
    What else do you want to know? Tubeless on a Fat bike is an interesting conversation without a doubt, however, the reason for it changes from person to person. I weighed a set yesterday I did for a customer, the tubeless setup requirements for sealant are so high that it actually ADDS weight to the wheel set, by almost a full pound for the set. Kind of a bummer. ..
    How much sealant did you use? I have had great success with using 4oz per wheel.

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    Good job! Any updates from anyone using this method??

    Quote Originally Posted by cansado View Post
    Works great for me.
    I learned about it from someone else on mtbr.
    I have a Marge Lite with 27 tpi Husker Du.
    I made sure the Clown Shoe rim strip was tucked under the rim bead on both sides (fits perfectly), installed the tire, set the beads with a tube, broke one side free, removed the tube, added Stan's valve with core removed, laid wheel with loose bead side down on a bucket and hit it with a blast of air from a pancake nailer compressor. Popped right on. Then I added Stan's through the valve, re-installed the valve core, re-inflated and did the Stan's shake/rotate procedure. It has held air perfectly. The Clown Shoe rim strip bulged out quite a bit through the rim cutouts so I went back in and added the Marge Lite rim strip over the top to reinforce it. I think using some ribbon first, then the Clown Shoe rim strip would possibly be a bit lighter alternative.
    Hi, does anyone have any update on using this method??

  30. #30
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    2500 miles since February, I'm about to put on my 3rd set of tires. So far, so good, it's been trouble free.

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    It's been solid for me too. Rear was holding air all through offseason, just had to add some sealant to front (dried out) and it's back to normal again too.

    When you look at how it's setup, it's easy to understand why it works so well.

    Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-20141123_201736.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-20141123_201736.jpg  


  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraspontane View Post
    Wouldn't a Rolling Darryl strip be better for this application?
    Anyone set up with Darryl strip?

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    thanks for the replys

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    Is everyone running with two rim strips, just CS, or some alternate method?

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    I used just the CS rim strip with a marge lite and 120tpi HuDu for a few hundred miles this summer - worked great, not a single burp but I didn't run low pressure.

    I don't think the RD rim strip would work as well, the CS perfectly fits under the bead of the marge lite rim.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by backen View Post
    Is everyone running with two rim strips, just CS, or some alternate method?
    Just the cs strip, nothing else, no tape and 4-6 oz. of Stan's

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    After looking at all the other options, I am so psyched to set it up this way. Thanks for the input, and so quickly. I have been agonizing over this for a week now.

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    Holy hell. Totally missed this thread. Such a nice and tidy fit. Shweet.

    And if Gigantic's been bombing on them that long trouble free I'd call it field tested fer sure.

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    This is too cool!

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    Stoked to have found this thread as well, but curious to know about the weight thing. So does this method shave off the weight of fullsize tubes? Or would running 2.75"dh tubes be a similar weight savings?

  41. #41
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    if you are running with tubes, then you need a rim strip as well.
    this uses the bigger rim strip, but eliminates both tubes. so obviously it saves weight.
    once I have the stuff to set it up and if I remember I will try to document it.

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    So I started down this path but the strip didn't sit real clean on the bead shelf, but came up the sides a bit. Do you guys just push it so the "slack" are in the center a bit? I ended up going gorilla tape but have the strips to try in the future potentially.

  43. #43
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    I needed to trim the clownshoe rim strip a bit... maybe an eight of an inch. Worked like a charm after that.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by thechickencow View Post
    So I started down this path but the strip didn't sit real clean on the bead shelf, but came up the sides a bit. Do you guys just push it so the "slack" are in the center a bit? I ended up going gorilla tape but have the strips to try in the future potentially.
    Center the strip and well as you can, leave it going up the sides, the bead will seat much better that way. if you need to, use a tube to seat the bead, then install the tubeless valve stem.

  45. #45
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    I'd snapped a pic, should it look like this?

    Dillinger 5 install by jay1441, on Flickr

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    that looks perfect!

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    Rear is all set, seems to be working great!

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    Any updates on the success of this set up?

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by djk69 View Post
    Any updates on the success of this set up?
    What's to report? After 11 months, 2 sets of tires and 2500 miles, mine are still going strong.

  50. #50
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    Idea! Tubeless Setup

    I ended up having a little bit of a hard time. The front went without too much of a fight but the back refused every attempt. at one point I was taking pictures but was running into problem after problem and kind of re-focused on the job. based on info here and my experience my recommended setup is (use at your own risk)


    remove stock rim strip
    insert clown shoe rim strip
    put tire on and put tube back in and seat tire bead with clown shoe strip, leave overnight inflated.
    deflate tube and break 1 side of tire bead, pull out tube, insert stans valve, remove valve core. inflate tire and re-seat the broken bead. let deflate and add stans sealant through the valve port (I use the small stans bottle and then refill it.) I put two small bottles in the front tire and 3 in the back (which I believe is a lot less than what others are adding).
    put the valve core back and re-inflate to a decent pressure and do the stans tubeless shake etc.
    I have a little under 100 miles on it and it is flawless thus far

  51. #51
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    Is this still the go to method? I am trying to decide on summer rim tire combo so I can leave my d5's on darryls. Marge lite weighs about the same as as a carbon. I also want the rounder profile that the skinnier rim should give.

  52. #52
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    I've just set up my 2nd set of marge lites this way. It's been working well for me.

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    I have about 250 miles on and no problems thus far.

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    Has anyone tried this setup with surly Nate tires? I cannot get the tires to seat even when using a tube when the clownshoe strip is installed.

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    I have over 3000 miles with this method. Have mounted Nates, Knards and Buds.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobkorn View Post
    I have over 3000 miles with this method. Have mounted Nates, Knards and Buds.
    may try this at some point.

    loaded with snow down there bob?

    we've had about 100 inches fall in the last month

    haven't ridden in a month!

    rog

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    Just converted to this method after reading this thread.

    Marge Lites with Dillinger 4s. Left the stock Marge Lite rim strip in, applied the clownshoe over. dumped 5-6 oz of Stans in each wheel. Used my air compressor to seat the beads, btw.

    So simple and has been holding air great. Went for a quick Easter Morning trail ride this morning. So much less rolling resistance. Made my Beargrease a very fast / easy to pedal bike.

    This thread is very helpful and agree this is the go to method for Marge Lites!
    Beargrease
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  58. #58
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    I don't have the Clownshoe strips, so I just used split tubes with Orange seal fluid with MLs and Nates. I'm getting burps out of one side of the tire. I thought maybe it wasn't seated, so I put 20 PSI in the other day, it didn't seem to help as I still burped last night. I have to look at a clownshoe rimstrip to see if there are obvious advantages (like a ridge or something). Maybe Stans is just that much better than Orange seal?

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I don't have the Clownshoe strips, so I just used split tubes with Orange seal fluid with MLs and Nates. I'm getting burps out of one side of the tire. I thought maybe it wasn't seated, so I put 20 PSI in the other day, it didn't seem to help as I still burped last night. I have to look at a clownshoe rimstrip to see if there are obvious advantages (like a ridge or something). Maybe Stans is just that much better than Orange seal?
    Not sure which is better (this is my first tubeless conversion). But after a fair amount of research, this thread seemed to be a really good option and very inexpensive. I did it, and worked flawlessly. Was running 7psi out back and 8psi in front, as Vermont still has a tad bit of hardpack and ice in the singletrack.
    Beargrease
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    I am a newb to tubeless. But like the idea on my Pug.how does tubeless valve stem mount? I know I can dig around the internet, but thought I'd ask here first.

    Thanks!

    Tim

  61. #61
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    i'm running this setup:
    Marge lites, clown shoe rim strip, 4oz stans front and 6 oz rear in van helga 120 tpi tubeless ready tires.
    i just weighed the surly tubes i use in the winter at 385 grams (13.5 oz) and 2 oz of stans at 57 g (2oz).
    to sum up a tubeless setup this way will not cost you any weight and you gain a much more supple ride (rolling resistance)
    Brattleboro/Keene NEMBA officer and trail hero!

  62. #62
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    I have:

    Marge Lites, Marge Lite Rim Strips, Clown Shoe Rim Strips, new 120 TPI Knards.

    Is all I now need 35mm Stan's Stems, Sealant and some patience?

    Do I NEED an air compressor?
    Last edited by homebrewtim; 01-07-2016 at 06:25 AM.

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    You will most likely need an air compressor, you need to get enough air flow to get the beads to start to seat and then move them out.

    Personally, and I know this is the wrong thread to post this, I think split tube is easier than using the clownshoe rim strip method and I really don't think it adds any weight. I trimmed my split tube really close and had no problem switching tires - which is what people usually say is the downfall of split tube. With the split tube you get an integrated stem (no possibility of leaks there) and if you use a schrader valve you get a lot more air flow through the stem than you can get with s presta valve.

    My $0.02, obviously a lot of people are doing the clownshoe rim strip successfully, but I think split tube is still easier.

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    And toobez are still the easiest! Q-lites ftw!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    And toobez are still the easiest! Q-lites ftw!!!
    They sure are the easiest, however once you pedal a tire without tubes, there's a huge difference. The rolling resistance is next to nothing. So smooth.

    I have about 200 miles (all single track) since I converted, and it's a dream. Holds air perfectly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    They sure are the easiest, however once you pedal a tire without tubes, there's a huge difference. The rolling resistance is next to nothing. So smooth.

    I have about 200 miles (all single track) since I converted, and it's a dream. Holds air perfectly.
    I've run tubeless before on non fat bikes. But i've never minded tubes. Still don't. Once you add all that extra sealant, mess, and tougher tire changes, it doesn't seem so worth it to me. Especially with how lite tubes are when you run the lite ones. If i lived where there were thorns tho.......

  67. #67
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    What tubes do you prefer?

  68. #68
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    Qbp 2.4-2.75 lites or the regulars. 256 vs 280 grams. .73 mm vs .9 mm thick

    Both work great. The regulars are like half the price.

  69. #69
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    The main reason I do tubeless is flat protection, I had the Q tubes for a few months and I flatted way too much. I've had a few problems with the tubeless, but far less than I had with tubes. It's really not THAT hard to get it set up (split tube).

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    The main reason I do tubeless is flat protection, I had the Q tubes for a few months and I flatted way too much. I've had a few problems with the tubeless, but far less than I had with tubes. It's really not THAT hard to get it set up (split tube).


    once i bought a low pressure guage i haven't pinch flatted in over a year. 8-9 psi no matter how rough the terrain. i'm prolly lighter than you too.

  71. #71
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    Funny...I have not yet pinched my Pug, but this is my first season on it. I seem to run 5+ psi on really soft snow (have not tackled sand yet) and 8-10 on dirt. My local trail close to my house is really full of roots and rock walls. I just swapped my 27 TPI Nates for 120 TPI Knards for the warmer weather. I may give tubeless a try later this season just to see and seek out some lighter tubes for fun.

  72. #72
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    I didn't pinch flat a lot, but a lot more often than I have problems with tubeless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I didn't pinch flat a lot, but a lot more often than I have problems with tubeless.
    i remember you mentioning that. i was getting frustrated early on with pinching and almost went split tube till i figured out my problem. may go toobless at some point tho. based on your success with split tube, i'd go that route fer sure.

  74. #74
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    Did this on my front tire (rear was already done via tape). 120 TPI Knard. Easy to do - sealed well with minimal leakage. Result was a MUCH softer tire. My normal 7 psi (for dirt) with tubes was suddenly way too soft with a healthy dose of self-steer. Now up to around 10-11 psi. YMMV.
    My other bike is a /7.

  75. #75
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    I did the conversion yesterday...
    Marge Lite Rims
    27 Tpi Larrys
    Orange CS rim tape.
    I discarded the old rim tape and added some clear packing tape to the inside of the CS rim tape....Didn't want the bulge and wanted the orange to show.
    Worked a treat, went to the Servo to air up, hey presto.
    I can actually see how much Stans is in the wheel, 4 oz/wheel.I had more trouble popping the bead with tubes...go figure!!
    Bad news? Got the flu, can't ride.

    Thanks to everyone who posted their experience with this method.

  76. #76
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    I just can't seem to trust using a balloon for a tube...After all I'm riding a FATbike, it's not any heavier than my 4X bike. And, no I'm not gonna start counting grams.
    So far my tubeless arrangement has been in service for 1.5 years with only one problem, valve cores plugging up with Stan's. 160# rider @ 6psi, D5's and the Rocky mountains. Used 2 1" strips of gorilla tape and Surly strips, valve stems are the American Classic that doesn't have the conical rubbuh thingy. The main thing with adhesive tape of any type is cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, brakleen or similar so it sticks well.

    Yes, the Bud/Lou get on the bike for winter, D5's for summer.

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  77. #77
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    I'm not sure what your point is there.

  78. #78
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    Perfect

    Went for a short ride.........perfect!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-image.jpg  


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    I just want to make everyone aware; I've been running ML's with CL rim strips for some time now. Somewhere along the line, Surly changed their rim strips and now they are a softer material. I was sold the new ones sometime last summer. The new ones are much more susceptible to blistering up through the rims (especially when exposed to heat, sunlight or high pressures).

    I replaced mine that had blistered to approx. 25mm (1") above the height of the rim in the sunlight, and threw a piece of duct tape between the rim and the new strip. This stopped the blistering in sunlight.

    Last night we were changing the tires on my buddy's Rabbit Holes (set up the same way with a Darryl strip), and one of the blisters (approx. 25mm/1") gave out after sitting a few seconds while I aired up the other tire. Needless to say it was loud and force-ful.

    Just want people setting up new tires and wheels to be aware of this and take precautions if your bike will be sitting outside for long periods of time or be run at high pressures (in the case of smaller tires on the rabbit holes). Duct tape seems to be working wonders keeping the stips in check... Happy Trails!

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR Z View Post
    I just want to make everyone aware; I've been running ML's with CL rim strips for some time now. Somewhere along the line, Surly changed their rim strips and now they are a softer material. I was sold the new ones sometime last summer. The new ones are much more susceptible to blistering up through the rims (especially when exposed to heat, sunlight or high pressures).

    I replaced mine that had blistered to approx. 25mm (1") above the height of the rim in the sunlight, and threw a piece of duct tape between the rim and the new strip. This stopped the blistering in sunlight.

    Last night we were changing the tires on my buddy's Rabbit Holes (set up the same way with a Darryl strip), and one of the blisters (approx. 25mm/1") gave out after sitting a few seconds while I aired up the other tire. Needless to say it was loud and force-ful.

    Just want people setting up new tires and wheels to be aware of this and take precautions if your bike will be sitting outside for long periods of time or be run at high pressures (in the case of smaller tires on the rabbit holes). Duct tape seems to be working wonders keeping the stips in check... Happy Trails!
    I just left my stock Marge Lite rim strips in, and put the Clown Shoe right over it. No bulging at all.. Super easy set up.
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  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by tedo View Post
    I just left my stock Marge Lite rim strips in, and put the Clown Shoe right over it. No bulging at all.. Super easy set up.
    +1.... I have been running mine this way for a few months, no problems and hardly any bulging. I only have to top up the air every 2 to 3 weeks.

  82. #82
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    Anyone mount the Dillinger 4's to ML's? I am concenerend the D4's are not tubeless ready. Thanks BK.

  83. #83
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    I know some of the peeps I ride with are running D4's with sealant with no issues. I run my D5's tubeless with no worries.
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  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by supercal20077 View Post
    Anyone mount the Dillinger 4's to ML's? I am concenerend the D4's are not tubeless ready. Thanks BK.
    Yes, I do. Clownshoe rimstrip over the ML rimstrip.

    Super easy with a compressor.

    D4s rule.
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  85. #85
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    Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-image.jpg
    I've wanted to use colored duct tape with just the Clownshoe strip, but never could get it right. The tape would always wrinkle, fold, crease, tear, etc. everytime I tried to put the rim strip on top of it. This last time I finally tried installing the tape on the rim strip before putting it on the rim. It was a difficult two person job to stretch it over the rim as the duct tape limits stretching, but I now have a great looking rim strip and shouldn't have to change it unless the clownshoe strip fails.
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  87. #87
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    So...

    If a 100mm Clownshoe rim strip works for a 65mm Marge Lite, then an 82mm Rolling Darryl rim strip should work just fine on my 50mm Rabbit Holes. No?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  88. #88
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    What is the lowest anyone has gone with this setup for pressure and not had air loss. In deep snow I often get down to 2 PSI on my folding Dillinger 4's and am hoping this setup would work without air loss.

    I'm currently running 3 layers gorilla tape on the bead seat without issue, but would prefer the simplicity of this system if it's robust.

  89. #89
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    Sorry to be late to the party on this one. So this would be an alternative to split tube? Would the CS strip work on a rolling Darryl?
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    ^Ditto. I am trying to convince myself if they will work on the Mulefut 80SLs as well.

  91. #91
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    I think you would need a wider strip. The Clownshoe strip just fits the narrower 65mm rim.

    I really wish someone would come out with a flexible plastic strip, a la Bontragers TLR, for fatbikes.
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  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by brentos View Post
    What is the lowest anyone has gone with this setup for pressure and not had air loss. In deep snow I often get down to 2 PSI on my folding Dillinger 4's and am hoping this setup would work without air loss.

    I'm currently running 3 layers gorilla tape on the bead seat without issue, but would prefer the simplicity of this system if it's robust.
    I've gotten down to almost 2 psi in deep snow.

    Quote Originally Posted by masterofnone View Post
    Sorry to be late to the party on this one. So this would be an alternative to split tube? Would the CS strip work on a rolling Darryl?
    it would not. You'll need the fatty stripper for that. the CS strip just makes it from rim edge to rim edge.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by brentos View Post
    What is the lowest anyone has gone with this setup for pressure and not had air loss. In deep snow I often get down to 2 PSI on my folding Dillinger 4's and am hoping this setup would work without air loss.

    I'm currently running 3 layers gorilla tape on the bead seat without issue, but would prefer the simplicity of this system if it's robust.
    We've run this setup successfully as low as 2psi with Bud, Hodag, HuDu, Snowshoe, and Bulldozer tires. Totally solid.

    However, I've just started running Flowbeist and Dunderbeist and I am having issues when the tires are run below 5psi. They will break loose at the rim and leak, generally when there been some load, either cornering or bouncing (eg road sprint, which just happened today).

    Does anyone else have experience with these tires tubeless on the Marge Lites?

  94. #94
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    Reviving this thread.
    I just set up my front Marge lite using a Marge lite rim strip then the Clown shoe strip over it. Seated with a tube, broke the bead on one side, then removed tube and filled with 6 oz. Stans. Inflated tire until I heard the beads seat. Shook the tire a couple times for both sides. Noticed the Stans leaking between the Marge lit strip and the Clown shoe strip and bubbling out of the extra spoke holes on the Marge lite rim. Did the shake a few more times and it seems to be holding air, but wondering if I did something wrong. Or if I should have put tape on both edges of the Marge lite rim strip.
    Any advise? Thanks in advance.

  95. #95
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    I'm running HRDs, not MLs, but thought I'd offer a datapoint. Instead of a rubber rim strip, which we all know can get poochy over time, I used a craft store ribbon sandwiched between 2 layers of clear gorilla tape. It stretches little to none, and offers the advantage of being able to use a blingy ribbon or whatever in between the layers, and weighs next to nothing (or at least less than a Surly CS rim strip). See pics below. Has worked without stretching at all for 1.5 seasons and lots of hard miles so far. PSI has ranged from a low of 1-2 to a high of 12-13 for paved excursions. I'm using fattystrippers for the airtight layer. Writeup on those on page 1 of the fattystripper thread.

    Jay

    Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-img_0106.jpg
    Tubeless: Marge lite rims + Clownshoe rim strips. does it work?-img_0107.jpg

  96. #96
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    Odd, the Clownshoe strip is 75mm wide and the Marge Light is only 59mm inside. Should be more than enough coverage.

    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    Just installed a Marge Lite strip with a Clownshoe strip over top of it and the Clownshoe strip barely reaches the bead. looking at it I cannot imagine how sealant will not get under it? There is no overlap of the bead and it is centered, ideas?
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    Glad you pointed that out, I was just about to order a set from Jenson!

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    Bummer! Progress is not always good.

    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    Looks like Surly no longer makes the PVC strips, only the nylon. The Clownshoe nylon is only 65mm and will not work, back to the drawing board. Unless someone else besides QBP sells Surly.
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  99. #99
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    Well that sucks balls. I finally found a bomber, foolproof, repeatable way to set up my 65 mm rims tubeless, and poof - away goes the clownshoe rim strip. I had such a bear of a time finding one set several months ago, now I know why. Caffe Latex/Effetto Mariposa supposedly has a fatty rim strip for setting up tubeless, but there's no info on their site, nor can I find it anywhere - also said it doesn't play well with ammonia, a key ingredient in Stan's and Stan's clones. You'd think a manufacturer would finally step up and offer a strip to make their tubeless ready rims tubeless, but I guess that makes too much f'n sense.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Well that sucks balls. I finally found a bomber, foolproof, repeatable way to set up my 65 mm rims tubeless, and poof - away goes the clownshoe rim strip. I had such a bear of a time finding one set several months ago, now I know why. Caffe Latex/Effetto Mariposa supposedly has a fatty rim strip for setting up tubeless, but there's no info on their site, nor can I find it anywhere - also said it doesn't play well with ammonia, a key ingredient in Stan's and Stan's clones. You'd think a manufacturer would finally step up and offer a strip to make their tubeless ready rims tubeless, but I guess that makes too much f'n sense.
    A few months ago, I'd all but given up finding any clownshoe rim strips. I was at one of my local bike shops and I found a set. I'd call around, if you have not already. The method does work well, even got FBNs to set up, which is probably the loosest tire on any rim. I got mine at Knapps in Lawrenceville, NJ.

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