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  1. #1
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    Tubeless Clown shoe?

    Saw the thread using a Darryl...has anybody tried the method on a clown shoe?

  2. #2
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    A dude posted a pic on the Fat Bike Facebook group that is running Clowns sans tubes.

    Photos of Fat Bikes | Facebook

  3. #3
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    Just set up my front Clownshoe with Bud tire last night. Took two attempts to seat bead but it worked!

  4. #4
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    yup,it works fine on clown shoes,never needed anything but a floor pump to get them to set up,and never any problems in the desert until i ran over a bolt and then it was like a fat tire bukkake party as 16 oz of stans went everywhere...

    Tubeless Clown shoe?-002.jpg

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    yup,it works fine on clown shoes,never needed anything but a floor pump to get them to set up,and never any problems in the desert until i ran over a bolt and then it was like a fat tire bukkake party as 16 oz of stans went everywhere...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    16 oz? Most tutorials I have seen say 8oz per wheel. I bet that way pretty messy!

  6. #6
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    Just gorilla tape tubeless on clownshoes here. No experience with darryls but I found the tire a bit harder to seat than marges. Using a compressor, with marges, I didn't even need to seat a bead with a tube first, with the clown shoes, I did have to.

    I've always heard 6oz as the recommended sealant amount.

    Honestly even 6oz per wheel felt like too much for me. I've since reduced it to 4oz of homebrew per wheel and it's been working great.

  7. #7
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    its the desert,stans dries up pretty quick on its own,after 2 months on the last setup there was barely any left in liquid form,just some epic latex goblins...not to mention the goatheads...ive picked up 60-70 per tire in like 10 feet before...

  8. #8
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    You won't know it works until you poke a hole in the tire.

  9. #9
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    I split a Schwalbe AV10D over my Clown Shoes 2.5 years ago and they are still going strong. Not a single flat or burp during the whole time. The lowest pressures I've used have been below 3 psi.

  10. #10
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    Well it set easily enough. Gonna do rear wheel tonight and take it to Curt Gowdy State Park for a short ride. I am just glad they are sealed at the moment. I made the mistake of putting sealant in tire not valve, and had to pour it out after it didn't set. Got'r on the 2nd try though.

  11. #11
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    I got mine set-up great, and they work fine down to about 7 psi, but any lower and the stans just flows out between the rim and tire on the left side and it goes flat. I figure the stan's doesn't work unless you have a minimum pressure differential. Anyone else have this problem?

  12. #12
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    Your problem is not pressure differential or the sealant. Your problem is that you're trying to seal a poor fit with sealant. Even if you get it to seal, it will burp in no time.

    Build up the bead seat diameter to get a tighter fit between the rim and tire bead.

    (Alternatively it could be that the bead never seated right, but it's hard to tell over the internet.)

  13. #13
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Been doing split tube on RD's and CS's with many tire combos for several years with excellent success.......

    Not sure if I'm missing something in the question though?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  14. #14
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by tswg View Post
    I got mine set-up great, and they work fine down to about 7 psi, but any lower and the stans just flows out between the rim and tire on the left side and it goes flat. I figure the stan's doesn't work unless you have a minimum pressure differential. Anyone else have this problem?
    What Saul said. You need the fit to be tighter.

  15. #15
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by tswg View Post
    I got mine set-up great, and they work fine down to about 7 psi, but any lower and the stans just flows out between the rim and tire on the left side and it goes flat. I figure the stan's doesn't work unless you have a minimum pressure differential. Anyone else have this problem?
    You running split tube, or some version of tape/rim strip?

    I'm done being a zealot for split tube people are gonna do what they're gonna do, but I've never seen that happen with it, and that's well below 4 or 5 psi too.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  16. #16
    Frt Range, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I'm done being a zealot for split tube....
    What specific tube/size do you recommend for Clownshoes and Lou/Bud? Do I need to tape or just the split tube? Will Slime work or do I need Stans sealant? I don't want to mess around, I just want it to work. To that end, I want to use your proven recipe.

  17. #17
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    Schwalbe AV-10D is what I used. The regular 10 was not wide enough.

    You do need to cover the rim holes somehow. Just a couple of layers of wide packing tape did it for me - the 10D is plenty strong on its own, but would stretch out of the holes without support.

    This combo is airtight even without sealant, unless you have pinholes in the tires. Sealant is only necessary for puncture protection.

  18. #18
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by pursuiter View Post
    What specific tube/size do you recommend for Clownshoes and Lou/Bud? Do I need to tape or just the split tube? Will Slime work or do I need Stans sealant? I don't want to mess around, I just want it to work. To that end, I want to use your proven recipe.
    Q tubes, 24x2.4-2.75

    QBP part #TU6840

    Works on everything from an ML to CS. You just trim more excess tube off narrower rims is all.

    Rim, strip of your choice, then split tube.

    I used to build up the interface between strip and tube with foam to help tighten the bead contact for easier seating, now I just grab a 24" rubber cheapo rim strip, and stretch it around the exterior of the tire to hold it in more. Sometimes a bit of twisting of it to tighten further is needed, often not though.

    Minimal screw around? Try some foam, small bubble bubble wrap, whatever, and they generally go right up. I don't mind a bit of messing around, so I forego the build up layer at this point.

    Once seated and holding air, it may not be fully seated all the way around. Don't just add air till it seats, as it may just blow.

    I add ~5 psi and let it sit a while. Then a bit more, sit a while, it'll go, might just take a little while, patience is your friend.

    As for the whole "dude, you added a tube to a tubed system, your also not losing weight once you add the Stans blah blah blah" argument?

    Just set up a customers Fatboy. Weighed before and after, exactly 1 lb weight loss, all rotational weight.

    I use Stans, but assume Slime would be fine too.

    Works for me, but know that I've been setting up tubeless skinnies for a long time, and have a certain amount of experience, and tolerance for the screwing around that just about always seems to come with the territory. If I have one that goes wham bam done, regardless of tire size, I'm always surprised....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  19. #19
    Frt Range, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    Schwalbe AV-10D is what I used. The regular 10 was not wide enough....
    I have QTubes 24 x 2.4-2.75 presta, that seems to be similar to the Schwalbe tube. In the US the Schwalbe isn't common like the QTube.

  20. #20
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    Saul, How do you build up the bead seat diameter? I guess going from the tape method to the split tubeless method will change that, but is there another way so I can keep the tape method. Thoughts?

    One other argument that you don't see mentioned very often is the decreased rolling resistance when you run a tubeless set-up. The friction between the tube and the tire is substantial when you're running at very low (5-6 psi) due to the amount of flex in the tire. Get rid of the tube and the tire is free to flex much easier and therefore roll easier.

  21. #21
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    Tape around the bead seat is what I do. If the fit was loose, I put two rounds, but if it snapped on just a bit too easily, one round will suffice.

    With a split tube you won't need this - the thickness of the tube makes the fit tight at the bead.

    The Q-tubes option seems to weigh 188 grams, so it's certainly lighter than the 260 g Schwalbe tube.

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