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  1. #1
    Fat & Single
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    Ti O'beast in the 25's !

    25lb 15oz or 11.75kg

    I still have to change the Maxxis FR tubes over to Q-tubes superlights which will drop another 150g or 5oz off and i have to add the 30g bottle cage.
    The heavy SRAM 1050 11-36 cassette will be changed for a 11-32 1080 if my 28t HBC chainring ring ever arrives.... thats another 150g chopped off though theres a possibility i might add the ergon GS1's i have here.

    Frame - O'Beast Ti Med
    Fork - O'Beast carbon
    Wheels Rims F - Trialtech SL
    Wheels Rims R - Trialtech SL
    Hubs - Hope Fatsno
    Spokes - DT comp
    BB - Hope integral
    Chainring - HBC 30t
    Crank - Middleburn X-type
    Shifters - XO
    Derailleur R - XO
    Brakes F - Hope Race EVO M4
    Brakes R - Hope Race EVO M4
    Rotor rear - Hope 183mm
    Rotor front - Hope 183mm
    Bars - Syntace vector Carbon
    Stem - KCNC
    Chain guide - PAUL Components
    Tubes - maxxis FR
    Grips - foam
    Seatpost - Syntace hi-flex Carbon
    Tyres F - Husker Du folding
    Tyres R - Husker Du folding
    SeatClamp - Carbocage
    Headset - Hope integral
    Pedals - TIME carbon XS
    Cassette PG1050
    Seat - Selle Italia SLR superflow
    Chain - SRAM
    Skewers - Salsa rear, halo bolt through front
    Bottle cage - Arundel dave'O













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  2. #2
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  3. #3
    drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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    Wow!
    "Keep your burgers lean and your tires fat." -h.d. | ssoft | flickr

  4. #4
    Sup
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    you wouldn't want to ride that on naked
    your balls could get caught in that saddle
    other than that sweet build


    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  5. #5
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    Brill Build

    Dear ozzybmx,

    Firstly, I am an Oz soon to return to Oz from Italy. I shall be living just south of Sydney.
    Man, what a sheer coincidence it is that I find your O'beast setup. I've been scratching my noggin' for ages thinking of how to access the bits you have and get them without going overboard.

    Secondly, your build is wonderful, but I'd like to ask if you can reveal how/where/cost of getting all the parts into Australia please? Did you import everything or use a distributor/s in Australia.
    It's interesting that although these big wheels have originated from and for use in snow, that the great dirt landscapes of the 'bush' seem just as relevant.

    Take it easy and good luck.
    Peter

  6. #6
    gone walk about
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    awesome build & weight Ozz i tried to send some rep but no go.

  7. #7
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    A great build. I've got many of those components squirrelled away for when I return to Scotland and start building my StrathPuffer bike. The last one was in the high 30s and possibly 40s and that's painful over 24 hours.

    You just need some dirt on it now. Suggest you ride at Weipa - bauxite dust is lightest
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  8. #8
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    Excellent build Ozzy! Looks badass too. The weight was a nice surprise ay?

  9. #9
    Fat & Single
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    Its really so your schlong has no pressure on it making it a really comfortable seat, i dont reckon they factored in bollox popping through it when doing a nudie ride

    Velobike, the cape is on the 4WD to-do list, it would be nice and warm up there at the moment. Im between nightshifts but will get it dirty tomorrow.

    Will sent you PM Peter Mac.
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  10. #10
    Fat & Single
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    Excellent build Ozzy! Looks badass too. The weight was a nice surprise ay?
    It certainly was, my calc messup was including the cassette in the wheel weight from the other bike.

    NV couldnt give you a serve of rep either, you have recieved in the last 100 but it will keep
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  11. #11
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    Really nice, dude!

  12. #12
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    Looks Great...But for an extra 60 grams per wheel increase in weight you could have gone with a Marge Light and gained 20mm in rim width...Tough to call that a fat bike in that state....But like I said...It really looks great!

  13. #13
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    Post up the weight once you make your final modifications. I'd love to see what this Beast weighs in at.

    I'm running the Q-tube SL's is the 2.1-2.35" size. Been good so far. But haven't had a whole lot of rides on the bike yet.

  14. #14
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    Nice bike, impressive weight!

    I Guess I would sacrifice some weight to make it a more alround bike, for anything but a beachrace I would be adding 500 grams of tire sealant, a tripple, steel brakelines, a dropping seatpost and a german a flame fork
    And for the beachrace I would use Michelin latex tubes and floyds!

    But, each his own!


    PS, On the pics it seems like you're using maxis FR with presta valves and those valves tear of in no time with that rim tire combination!
    I have destroyed some tires like that!

    Anyway, I tried a lot of light tubes and now i am back to michelin downhilltubes with a double portion of latex milk,...

  15. #15
    Fat & Single
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    Ive used the Maxxis FR tubes with the tyres/rims for about 2 months (on the other bike) without any problems, will be swapping to q-tube SL's soon.
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  16. #16
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    ! Huzzah !
    owner/raconteur at fat-bike.com

  17. #17
    will rant for food
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    What rim strips are you running that avoid the bulging-out-the-holes look that I don't enjoy about drilled rims? Looks good.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  18. #18
    Fat & Single
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    Drew i went to a local craft & fabric shop for silver ribbon and it was all crap then i spied these massive rolls of vinyl on the way out so i bought a 10cm strip off the roll, it came 1.8m wide and i thought i would have to join it but it stretched the extra 20-25cm to make the rimstrip out of one 25mm wide strip.... then i put 1 wrap of gorilla tape on top of it.

    The vinyl is waterproof too
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  19. #19
    A Surly Maverick
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    Fantastic low(er) fat build

    Tyre clearance should not be an issue
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  20. #20
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    How do you like the hubs so far? I find mine to be great for announcing to ppl i'd like to pass. I pass skinnys and roadies all the time. These lightened fat bikes do haul ass and hold their own.

  21. #21
    Fat & Single
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    Ive rode many sets of Hopes on different wheels over the years, my SS has Enve wheels with Kings and going back to Hope hubs is definately not a step forward but they are bomb proof, reliable, a great price and work beautifully.

    The noise is good for scaring snakes off the trail
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevenz View Post
    Looks Great...But for an extra 60 grams per wheel increase in weight you could have gone with a Marge Light and gained 20mm in rim width...Tough to call that a fat bike in that state....But like I said...It really looks great!
    To me if the tire rim combo will only fit in a fat frame it is still a fat bike! Non riders on the trail still make comments on the size of the wheels with 47mm rims and that's in Anchorage where they are becoming quite common. And I guess it really doesn't matter what you call it if it works for the purpose it's used for than that is all that matters. In my experience for summer riding on the trails I ride the 47mm rims give the best trade off on weight, float and handling. Obviously that will not be true for everyone. Way cool build Ozzy.
    Latitude 61

  23. #23
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    Hi, nice bike. Can you please post review on bike and how it handles cross country.
    I'm from oz as well, did you buy parts os or from oz.
    Cheers

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevenz View Post
    Tough to call that a fat bike in that state...
    Just interested at where your cut off is for a bike to be deemed fat ?

    The sidewalls (not tread) are 85mm with the HuDus and trialtech rims, the sidewalls on my 80mm GFS rims with Larry/endo are 96mm, so only 11mm difference. Im guessing the Marge Lites will sit somewhere inbetween them.

    I will eventually build a set of 80mm umas and hopefully fit a set of the new "bud" tyres to them tubeless for the occasion beach or desert ride. For singletrack i would'nt change these 47mm wheels for any other combo.
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  25. #25
    Cheesiest
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    Sweet bike! I like that fork.

  26. #26
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    awesome build!

  27. #27
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    No 29'er wheels in the pipeline?

    I have the same tires/ rims, but to follow normal XC bikes, I need my 29'ers!

  28. #28
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    47mm rims were the original fat ie... Snowcat rims in the early 90s

  29. #29
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    Wicked bike build Ozzy , I cant wait for the post ride report . Damn lite .

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nothing's impossible View Post
    No 29'er wheels in the pipeline?

    I have the same tires/ rims, but to follow normal XC bikes, I need my 29'ers!
    Just sold my Pivot 429 to fund this bike, still got my fully rigid ONE9 as my race bike.
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  31. #31
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    Like I said...The bike is sick!!! But in my opinion anything less than marge lites is not fat...Do you consider the new Krampus a fat bike? I don't... The Knard on a Rabbit Hole rim have the same measurements as your set ... Again just my opinion...Means nothing in the grand scheme of things...Sick build...Shred away!


    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    Just interested at where your cut off is for a bike to be deemed fat ?

    The sidewalls (not tread) are 85mm with the HuDus and trialtech rims, the sidewalls on my 80mm GFS rims with Larry/endo are 96mm, so only 11mm difference. Im guessing the Marge Lites will sit somewhere inbetween them.

    I will eventually build a set of 80mm umas and hopefully fit a set of the new "bud" tyres to them tubeless for the occasion beach or desert ride. For singletrack i would'nt change these 47mm wheels for any other combo.

  32. #32
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    What is a fat bike?

    A while ago 2" tires were considered big, and a 3" tire on a 45 mm wide rim was freaking wide snowbike pioneer work, and now you would deny these early our fatbikes the membership of the fatbike club

    Its a matter of time before 3.8 tires on marge lites loose the fatbike status as these 6" 29'ers have so much more float

  33. #33
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    Great looking bike!! I bet its a blast.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevenz View Post
    Like I said...The bike is sick!!! But in my opinion anything less than marge lites is not fat...Do you consider the new Krampus a fat bike? I don't... The Knard on a Rabbit Hole rim have the same measurements as your set ... Again just my opinion...Means nothing in the grand scheme of things...Sick build...Shred away!
    This has already been decided, way back in 1995 when the Grand Toobah issued a fatwa decreeing that "the title of Fatbike shall not be bestowed upon any bike with tires possessing a fully inflated width of less than .30 cubits."

  35. #35
    will rant for food
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    It's a fat bike. Since we don't have access to the earliest incarnations of fat bikes, let's just go by the modern ubiquitous "definition" - bike frames that fit "3.8 inch" casing tires.

    If you want to debate what is a what what kind of what, go read the monstercross thread and gouge your eyes out.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  36. #36
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    Hello everyone,
    here's the Carver distributor for Australia
    info -at-blackmountainsports.com.au
    In Italy for Carver you can use a guy called Luke Mann
    dawnemann-at-gmail.com
    Peter
    the system will not let me post full info yet as I'm only a new member.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sevenz View Post
    Like I said...The bike is sick!!! But in my opinion anything less than marge lites is not fat...Do you consider the new Krampus a fat bike? I don't... The Knard on a Rabbit Hole rim have the same measurements as your set ... Again just my opinion...Means nothing in the grand scheme of things...Sick build...Shred away!
    I know I should not be beating this dead (or non-existant) horse, but what are dead horses for?

    The Knard is not the same width as the setup on Ozzy's bike. According to Surly's blog the Knard has a 75.8mm casing width and Ozzy's is 85. To me that is a pretty big difference since it approximately twice what the difference is between the tire width on 47 mm and 65 mm rims.

    I like to think I normally would just ride my bike and not comment multiple times on the same thread but I'm still several weeks out on being able to ride again, progress is being made and I can at least ride a stationary bike but commenting on forums is way more fun than that.
    Latitude 61

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by peter mac View Post
    Hello everyone,
    here's the Carver distributor for Australia
    info -at-blackmountainsports.com.au
    Peter, thats the distributor who got me the frame and forks, great service too
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    I know I should not be beating this dead ... horse, but what are dead horses for?

    The Knard is not the same width as the setup on Ozzy's bike. According to Surly's blog the Knard has a 75.8mm casing width and Ozzy's is 85. To me that is a pretty big difference since it approximately twice what the difference is between the tire width on 47 mm and 65 mm rims...
    Better to beat a dead horse than a live one

    The difference is big. The approximate difference in volume between those tyres is about 25%.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  40. #40
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    Awesome. I just looked at the pictures quickly. I'll come back later and read everything.

  41. #41
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    Well that looks fast! Go get it all sorts of dirty.

  42. #42
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    Very NICE

  43. #43
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    Cheers guys, had it out for the first decent ride today and its sweet as !
    Its definately a more "MTB" feel than my Mukluk, the bars were 30mm higher than the seat on the Mukluk and same settings on the Carver the seat is 25mm higher than the bars, so my hands are over 2" lower.
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  44. #44
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    Good to here you like it . It sure is a nice bike .

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott571 View Post
    Good to here you like it . It sure is a nice bike .
    Get the order placed Scotty, everyone needs a fatty
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  46. #46
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    Impressive build.
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/

  47. #47
    How much does it weigh?
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    No comments on how the Hope M4 brake is adding 500 lbs to that bike?

  48. #48
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    He got the race version ;-)

  49. #49
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    Ozzy if i had the money i would already own one .

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Borgschulze View Post
    No comments on how the Hope M4 brake is adding 500 lbs to that bike?
    You weighing me and the bike ?

    The race M4's weigh 244g and 247g F&R, without rotors that is.
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  51. #51
    How much does it weigh?
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    Rear Formula R1

    Also can save 40g per rotor if those are 7" by replacing with Formula rotors of the same size.

    That's about 200g saved :P

    I forgot about much lighter the Race lever is, and I believe Titanium hardware as well?

    Weight saving is endless... I've got Hope Tech X2s, and they're great, wouldn't swap them to save any weight, they're too nice.

  52. #52
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    ^ wow, that's light. I cant help but think how much weight id lose if I swapped out my bb7's for those.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    ^ wow, that's light. I cant help but think how much weight id lose if I swapped out my bb7's for those.
    2lbs


    all the WW jokes aside i can appreciate the attention to detail when one chooses to build/assemble frame up bikes regardless of use. A great deal of forethought every step of the way.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    2lbs

    Are you sure about the 2 pounds? With light levers the BB 7's on my wifes bike weigh about 2.3 pounds including cables, rotors, etc.

    Probably not the stock rotors on there now that I think about it some more but still......
    Last edited by sryanak; 08-27-2012 at 08:03 PM.
    Latitude 61

  55. #55
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    Yep all bolts that come with the brakes are Ti.

    The 183mm hope floating saw rotors were 157g each so theres loads of lighter options out there.
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  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Are you sure about the 2 pounds?
    no sir i'm not as i was poking fun with the weight weenie aspect.

  57. #57
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    fantastic build. how much lighter is a ti frame vs a comparable alum? or is it the other way around?

  58. #58
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    I believe going on the info i got from the manufacturers that theres a few alu bikes in the same weight range. Fatback says their painted and raw Med frames were both 1790g and im sure that all the Ti frames out there would be in and around that weight.
    The new Beargrease frame should be in the ballpark too.

    Theres loads of options and loads of nice frames
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  59. #59
    How much does it weigh?
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    My 18" Fatback frame is 1755 grams.

    It's anodized black, and that's with the derailleur hanger.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    no sir i'm not as i was poking fun with the weight weenie aspect.
    Dang it I missed the wink Oh well, once a weight weenie.......
    Latitude 61

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Dang it I missed the wink Oh well, once a weight weenie.......
    It's when you find yourself drilling out the centres of your Ti bolts that you know it's a serious affliction.

    Although there is the extra step of countersinking and relieving the head (of the bolt )

    My next fatbike build is going to get the full WW treatment - not necessarily using the lightest bits, but I'll be drilling and removing as much useless weight as possible.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  62. #62
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    I'm drooling.

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    Good build. What's the total rider+bike mass once you're rolling on the trail?

    I think if you changed out the saddle, the "ride naked" option would really allow you to cut a few more grams out of the total rider+bike mass.

    If you left the saddle, rode naked, you might save a little more weight post-operative...

  64. #64
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    Loads, bike is still 25ish, rider is approx 200lbs ready to ride.

    The seat is gone too, swapped it out for a Spech Romin Pro.
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  65. #65
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    Nice build, glad to see you got some real brakes on there too very nice. I put an M4 up front they are sweet!

    Go ahead & take the pedals off...*then* weigh it seems that's what all the light bike guys do hehe....

    Tire clearance is awesome on that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    rider is approx 200lbs ready to ride.
    You FAT B#%$^d.... heheh

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    Im only 200... not 300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Nice build, glad to see you got some real brakes on there too very nice. I put an M4 up front they are sweet!

    Go ahead & take the pedals off...*then* weigh it seems that's what all the light bike guys do hehe....

    Tire clearance is awesome on that.
    183mm rotors back and front and 4 chunky pots to stop grab em. The bike stops on a 2c piece with fat Buds gripping the terrain.

    Yep, if i take the pedals off and throw it up on an eBay scale its lighter than a Borealis Yampa
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    The weight savings is impressive; however, I think you'd be better off just taking a nice healthy bowel movement before riding. Have you weighed that yet? (No need for pictures, please).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Clydesdale Clint View Post
    The weight savings is impressive; however, I think you'd be better off just taking a nice healthy bowel movement before riding. Have you weighed that yet? (No need for pictures, please).
    This thread is from Aug 2012, technology has moved on a load since then.

    I reckon i do ok with my weight and racing, i ride 200km or more a week usually.... bowel movements are good too thanks.
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    Sorry to resurrect this thread, but Ozzy, are your still riding this bike?

    I am seriously considering replacing my 15.5 (small) Mukluk with this frame. I am having a hard time choosing a frame size. You say yours is a medium. Is that the 17.5 inch or 18.5 inch. Also, if you don't mind my asking what height and inseam are you. This would really help.

    Finally, did your have the tapered steer tube?
    Thanks much
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  72. #72
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    Yeah i'm still riding it and have no intention of changing it anytime soon.

    44mm head tube so i can run tapered or straight steerer.

    I went from a med Mukluk to this so that might help with sizing.

    I am 177cm or 5'9.5" as the conversion tells me, with a 32 inch inseam.

    Cant remember what the exact size was but can find out tonight when i get home, the 18" rings a bell though as i size all frames i buy on ETT length.
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    Agreed on the ETT length. Interesting thing is that there is only 1/2 inch difference in ETT between the 17.5 and 18.5 frames.

    You noted that you site higher on the O'Beast than the Mukluk and this is my next biggest concern. I really like the feel of sitting IN the my Mukluk and concerned that that the combination of a 1 inch higher bottom bracket and higher seat relative to the handlebars may take some of the comfort factor away and the feel as though I am sitting on top of the bike. I already have a XC bike for that.

    If I remember, have you done touring or backpacking on the O'Beast? How was the comfort over days of riding?

    Any thoughts you have since you have ridden both would be great to. I'm just waiting to pull the trigger on this frame if all seems right.
    Zip

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    You get used to it, i cant notice the difference now and the bike feels really comfortable. I do some long rides on it with 6-9 hours on the saddle now and again.

    I would be more concerned with how the saddle fits your ass rather than the comfort of the bike.
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