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  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    So I did some measuring on the ICT fork. Spacing is obviously 150mm, and the fork ends measure 5mm thick on both sides. So the the axle needs to be about 160mm long, not including the threaded portion that will thread into the Paul Components nut.

    The Paragon Machine Works DT025 thru axle is 175mm long from under the skewer head to the end of the axle, with about 15mm threaded portion at the end. That equates to 160mm thru axle portion, perfect! So I ordered one to try out, and already have the Paul nut. I'll report back when I get it to confirm that it actually works.

    Link to the thru axle:

    https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...tion&key=DT025

    Link to the Paul nut (You want the 15mm one for the fork):

    https://paulcomp.com/shop/components...-axle-end-nut/

    Stay tuned!
    Nice! If it works I'll probably get one F&R. The less tools I need to take the better.

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    So I did some measuring on the ICT fork. Spacing is obviously 150mm, and the fork ends measure 5mm thick on both sides. So the the axle needs to be about 160mm long, not including the threaded portion that will thread into the Paul Components nut.

    The Paragon Machine Works DT025 thru axle is 175mm long from under the skewer head to the end of the axle, with about 15mm threaded portion at the end. That equates to 160mm thru axle portion, perfect! So I ordered one to try out, and already have the Paul nut. I'll report back when I get it to confirm that it actually works.

    Link to the thru axle:

    https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...tion&key=DT025

    Link to the Paul nut (You want the 15mm one for the fork):

    https://paulcomp.com/shop/components...-axle-end-nut/

    Stay tuned!
    Just to follow up, the above mentioned parts are indeed correct for replacing the front thru axle on an ICT fork. Works perfectly.Surly ICT thread-img_3332.jpgSurly ICT thread-img_3333.jpg

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Just to follow up, the above mentioned parts are indeed correct for replacing the front thru axle on an ICT fork. Works perfectly.Click image for larger version. 

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    Awesome info! Thanks!

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
    Keep the Rubber Side Down

  4. #804
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    Just got my ICT on Tuesday and took it out 3 days in a row. I rented one a few weeks back and fell in love with it. I ordered the last XXL complete bike, which only comes in yellow. After the shop started looking at it, the thing was all jacked up, rear hub was shot, rotors were roasted, paint chips all over it the frame and fork, rear tire sidewall looked like it was rubbing, on end of box it had a sticker on it "batch test". LBS called Surley and they sent out a black frame and fork and new parts. I prefer the black any day. Rear wheel is a loaner in pic so I could get it out and ride. Will build up a 29+ wheelset and get a frame bag made with that Nice large triangle.

    Absolutely love it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly ICT thread-img_0487.jpg  

    Surly ICT thread-img_0493.jpg  


  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarygary View Post
    Nice bike man!
    What wheels are on that sweet ride! I've got an ICT and am thinking of some 27.5 or 29ers. Haven't decided yet and would love some input as to which would be best for single track trails and some xc.

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    mines still solid after a year of abuse
    Looking at 2 years of a great working bb. No problems here.

  7. #807
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    I'm building a ICT spec ops, I have the surly od crank and was wondering what chain ring and cassette people are for a 1x10 drive. I have a shimano compatible rear hub, was thinking I needed about a 32t front but whose? I'm new to the fat bike world and any help would be greatly appreciated

  8. #808
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixshooter44 View Post
    I'm building a ICT spec ops, I have the surly od crank and was wondering what chain ring and cassette people are for a 1x10 drive. I have a shimano compatible rear hub, was thinking I needed about a 32t front but whose? I'm new to the fat bike world and any help would be greatly appreciated
    Wolftooth chainring, whatever cassette you want.

  9. #809
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Not the best pics, but this is the setup with Turbines and a 170 spindle. Again, no spacers, the pre-load ring sanded down to function as the spacer.





    I just tried this on my bike and it doesn't work! Your BB was made narrower! But how the hell did they do it perfectly flat?! I want to try this. Any advice?

  10. #810
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    Is it even close Charge? Any decent machine shop should be able to mill it down for you, if that's really what you want to do. I guess that's one upside of the press in bearing cups.

  11. #811
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    Pretty darn close! .75mm off each side and I'd be rolling fo sho!

  12. #812
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    hey gang...I just ordered a surly ict frame. this will be my first bike build of any kind. I hope you guys will be willing to help me with all my questions....I got the medium Jack Frost frame...everything is new to me.

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestude View Post
    hey gang...I just ordered a surly ict frame. this will be my first bike build of any kind. I hope you guys will be willing to help me with all my questions....I got the medium Jack Frost frame...everything is new to me.
    Sweet and fire away with questions!

  14. #814
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    you won't regret it. ❤❤❤ my ICT!!

  15. #815
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    thanks charge....I do have a question about the bottom bracket....this is my first bike build, and I want to find a good durable bottom bracket that will not need modifications...I don't think I can afford if I screw up parts, and then have to rebuy...I like the idea of doing right, doing it once...what do you suggest

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestude View Post
    thanks charge....I do have a question about the bottom bracket....this is my first bike build, and I want to find a good durable bottom bracket that will not need modifications...I don't think I can afford if I screw up parts, and then have to rebuy...I like the idea of doing right, doing it once...what do you suggest
    What crankset are you planning on running? If you run a 24mm spindle I recommend a Shimano BB as they are cheap and durable, 30mm spindle and you should run a RaceFace BB.

  17. #817
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    Another thing you need to keep in mind is the extra BB width that the ICT has. Any 100mm spindle crankset will *not* work. Nothing from SRAM, no RaceFace ride or RaceFace 170mm cranksets. Pretty much only the Surly OD crank, and the RaceFace 190 cranks.

    Shoot me a PM if you need any parts for your build, I have an extensive parts bin selection.

  18. #818
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    I'm running the surly od crank 1x10 with shimano slx

  19. #819
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    i believe both Hope and Chris King have pressfit bb that will fit the ICT now...

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    What crankset are you planning on running? If you run a 24mm spindle I recommend a Shimano BB as they are cheap and durable, 30mm spindle and you should run a RaceFace BB.
    How to I learn about these different components. Is there a reference guide somewhere that would tell me what fits, and why I might want to 24mm over a 30mm.
    I'm a big stocky guy, 5.10. 265lbs. Will that make a difference in parts I should choose.

  21. #821
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    Depends on how much you want to spend. The Surly/cheaper RaceFace 190 crank will use a 24mm spindle and the expensive Turbine/Next carbon cranks will run 30mm spindles. Supposedly the 30mm spindle is stiffer but very marginally. Like 0.000000000000001% stiffer when you are putting down 1000 watts.

  22. #822
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    I'm thinking about shedding some wheel weight for the summer on my ICT and have been debating getting a 60-80mm fat wheelset (26") that will shed some weight, or maybe going 29+. My fear is that with 29+ I will end up also wanting a bluto because the ride will get too rigid. I am 200 lbs or so, and ride some rocky trails so I'm not a huge fan of going carbon rims.

    I've been leaning towards the Swiss Br2250 wheelset. In some searching around, it appears this will save 2+ lbs from my wheel weight (clownshoes w/ salsa hubs). More if I switch to 4" tires and go tubeless.
    Will 4" lower my BB too much vs 4.8? Would I see a dramatic improvement in climbing etc. ?

    Up for any suggestions. Basically I will have some money burning a hole in my pocket after I sell my plus bike, and the most logical way to spend it is upgrading the ICT :P

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerrduford View Post
    I'm thinking about shedding some wheel weight for the summer on my ICT and have been debating getting a 60-80mm fat wheelset (26") that will shed some weight, or maybe going 29+. My fear is that with 29+ I will end up also wanting a bluto because the ride will get too rigid. I am 200 lbs or so, and ride some rocky trails so I'm not a huge fan of going carbon rims.

    I've been leaning towards the Swiss Br2250 wheelset. In some searching around, it appears this will save 2+ lbs from my wheel weight (clownshoes w/ salsa hubs). More if I switch to 4" tires and go tubeless.
    Will 4" lower my BB too much vs 4.8? Would I see a dramatic improvement in climbing etc. ?

    Up for any suggestions. Basically I will have some money burning a hole in my pocket after I sell my plus bike, and the most logical way to spend it is upgrading the ICT :P
    I recently built up a pair of Surly Other Brother Darryls for my 197mm fat bike. (Not an Ice Cream Truck) MUCH lighter and faster than my Clownshoes.
    I also have a 29+ wheelset that I love. Currently, I have 3" Chupacabras on it, fully rigis. I weigh about 255. I run 14-15 psi. I also have Jones bars and Wolftooth foam grips so I don't feel the need for a suspension fork.
    I want to try Duro's Crux tire. It's 29x3.25". May be even better.
    I still run 4.8" tires on my OBDs.
    I like turtles

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I recently built up a pair of Surly Other Brother Darryls for my 197mm fat bike. (Not an Ice Cream Truck) MUCH lighter and faster than my Clownshoes.
    I also have a 29+ wheelset that I love. Currently, I have 3" Chupacabras on it, fully rigis. I weigh about 255. I run 14-15 psi. I also have Jones bars and Wolftooth foam grips so I don't feel the need for a suspension fork.
    I want to try Duro's Crux tire. It's 29x3.25". May be even better.
    I still run 4.8" tires on my OBDs.
    Thanks for sharing your experience. I really like the new MOBD's too - They come stock on the 2017 ICT. I hear setting them up tubeless is also a snap?

    Do you find yourself using the 29+ or MOBD more often? Have you tried 4" on the MOBD set?

  25. #825
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    I run 4" on the original Darryls over the summer, and 5" over the winter. The bottom bracket is noticeably lower, but it isn't terrible. It isn't bad enough to prevent me from doing it every year (bought my ICT in early 2015, so this is my 3rd season). In my opinion, the bike rides really well with a fast rolling 4" tire (I use Husker Dus). It's a pretty good compromise without the cost of a second wheelset.

  26. #826
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    a second wheelset is a nice addition to an ICT though...im in the desert though so the only change in conditions is how hot it is,the nature of the surfaces doesnt change,its always loose and rocky...

  27. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerrduford View Post
    Thanks for sharing your experience. I really like the new MOBD's too - They come stock on the 2017 ICT. I hear setting them up tubeless is also a snap?

    Do you find yourself using the 29+ or MOBD more often? Have you tried 4" on the MOBD set?
    I have not put any 4" tires on the MOBDs. No point, in my opinion. Depending on the conditions, I'll ride full fat, 29+ or sometimes, fat front and 29+ on the rear. Bike is awesome like that. faster and tears up corners. Place near my house is very sandy. Works well there.
    MOBDs are super easy tubeless. When I originally built them, I had no faith and I set them up split tubeless. Used Bud and Lou since it was winter and we had snow. When I swapped Lou for the 4.8 Knard, I took a chance and used Whiskey Tape and set it up straight tubeless. Tire seated instantly and has not given me a single problem in two months.
    I like turtles

  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerrduford View Post
    I'm thinking about shedding some wheel weight for the summer on my ICT and have been debating getting a 60-80mm fat wheelset (26") that will shed some weight, or maybe going 29+. My fear is that with 29+ I will end up also wanting a bluto because the ride will get too rigid. I am 200 lbs or so, and ride some rocky trails so I'm not a huge fan of going carbon rims.

    I've been leaning towards the Swiss Br2250 wheelset. In some searching around, it appears this will save 2+ lbs from my wheel weight (clownshoes w/ salsa hubs). More if I switch to 4" tires and go tubeless.
    Will 4" lower my BB too much vs 4.8? Would I see a dramatic improvement in climbing etc. ?

    Up for any suggestions. Basically I will have some money burning a hole in my pocket after I sell my plus bike, and the most logical way to spend it is upgrading the ICT :P
    I bought the Borealis tubeless wheelset and used FattyStrippers w/4" Jumbo Jims. The difference was night and day. Took my ICT from fun fat trail bike to a bike that could actually accelerate. Monet well spent!

  29. #829
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    Depends on how much you want to spend. The Surly/cheaper RaceFace 190 crank will use a 24mm spindle and the expensive Turbine/Next carbon cranks will run 30mm spindles. Supposedly the 30mm spindle is stiffer but very marginally. Like 0.000000000000001% stiffer when you are putting down 1000 watts.
    So which bottom bracket, spindle and cranks should I get. Which will fit without a problem

  30. #830
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    Quote Originally Posted by mestude View Post
    So which bottom bracket, spindle and cranks should I get. Which will fit without a problem
    that would depend on what you mean by "without a problem"...
    the surly crank/bb would no doubt be the easiest to install,good cranks,pretty bombproof,maybe a tad heavy,but like most surly products it will stand up to a lot of abuse...
    the aeffect is a good crank as well,dont have any experience with them in the context of an ICT though...
    i have a turbine crank/bb...its a great crank/bb so far except for having to pull it apart and clean and re-grease everything about every three months when it starts creaking again,so you need the cinch cap tool,and you can expect to have to replace the nylon pre load collar once a year or so...but aside from that no complaints!

  31. #831
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    Thinking about Bluto-ing my ICT and am a suspension noob. Is this the correct crown race for the stock headset? Cane Creek 110 1.5" Alloy Crown Race > Components > Headsets > Crown Races | Jenson USA
    Also, I ride a medium 2016 ICT (Jack Frost Blue). Will the 120 RCT3 bluto clear the downtube, or do I have to go 100?

  32. #832
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    That's the crown race I used on my Bluto. I'm riding a 100mm on a small frame... it doesn't seem like the fork travel matters a bit for crown clearance; that is fixed by the location and angle of the headtube (with respect to the downtube) and should be the same for the Bluto regardless of travel.

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    That's the crown race I used on my Bluto. I'm riding a 100mm on a small frame... it doesn't seem like the fork travel matters a bit for crown clearance; that is fixed by the location and angle of the headtube (with respect to the downtube) and should be the same for the Bluto regardless of travel.
    Doh! Not sure why I couldn't figure that out on my own.
    I assume most go with the 100 over the 120 because it affects the 'stock' geo less?

  34. #834
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    Yeah, the axle to crown on the 100 is pretty much the same as the Surly fork, so geometry is pretty much the same. I with the 120, you'll slack it out a bit; that could be a good thing if you have descents you can bomb and don't do too much technical climbing. The trails I ride most have a lot of the latter and not much of the former, so I decided to stick with the 100. I have a couple spots where the front end is trying to come off the ground when maneuvering uphill switch backs, even with the 100. It's not bad, but I don't want it any slacker.

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    Yeah, the axle to crown on the 100 is pretty much the same as the Surly fork, so geometry is pretty much the same. I with the 120, you'll slack it out a bit; that could be a good thing if you have descents you can bomb and don't do too much technical climbing. The trails I ride most have a lot of the latter and not much of the former, so I decided to stick with the 100. I have a couple spots where the front end is trying to come off the ground when maneuvering uphill switch backs, even with the 100. It's not bad, but I don't want it any slacker.
    Thanks for the explanation! I got a really sweet deal on a 120 RCT3 so I couldn't help but go with that model. It is a cut steerer (about 3/4" shorter than where I'm at now with the stock fork), so I'm thinking that the slightly lower bars will help to make up the difference in weight on the front wheel.

    Hoping I can order that crown race and get it on by myself without buying any special tools to press it in. Seems like others have had success with hammer/rubber mallet.

  36. #836
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    A crown race set helps in getting it installed properly. If you're not using one, I'd at least try to find a length of pipe that you could use to get it set evenly. I wouldn't recommend trying to pound on an aluminum race directly with a hammer. Your local bike shop would probably set it for you for a few bucks.

  37. #837
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    Hi, has anyone tried SRAM GX Eagle setup on this bike? I was planning on trying it with wolftooth OD chainring. I didn't know the cassette was dished so I guess the tire clearance will be less than normal 1x systems? Was hoping this would work with 2XLs, but not so sure anymore.

  38. #838
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    I just tried this on my bike and it doesn't work! Your BB was made narrower! But how the hell did they do it perfectly flat?! I want to try this. Any advice?
    Sorry for the super delayed response. I'm not really sure how it was done....bought it with this setup. Maybe just a Bottom Bracket Shell Facing Tool? I have no experience with one, but the way it threads through the BB seems like it would be forced flat.

    It's certainly still running strong with this setup. Just threw on a set of 27.5" wheels with 3" tires to try a different flavor.

  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Sorry for the super delayed response. I'm not really sure how it was done....bought it with this setup. Maybe just a Bottom Bracket Shell Facing Tool? I have no experience with one, but the way it threads through the BB seems like it would be forced flat.

    It's certainly still running strong with this setup. Just threw on a set of 27.5" wheels with 3" tires to try a different flavor.
    Can you measure the Bottom Bracket shell for us in MM? Thanks!

  40. #840
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    Measuring with bike assembled just using a ruler, I get 130mm. Looking online I found 132 and 132.5mm listed as the shell width, so it doesn't seem like too much has been "faced" off.

    Remember, this setup fits, but not in the traditional way. I have no spacers, and sanded down the cinch piece to make it fit and act as a spacer. That said, (knock on wood) it doesn't give me problems.

    If/when my cranks have made any creak type noise, and it isn't much, I have just added a few drops of tri-flow along where the cinch piece butts up against the shell, and it quiets it right out.

    The race face bearings on one side aren't perfectly smooth, which I noticed the day I got it home and started messing with it, but they haven't gotten any worse. With the bike assembled they feel smooth. Apart, turning by hand, there's a little roughness. I expected to have to have replaced them by now, but Will keep em going as long as I can, and then replace with something else....hope maybe. I like Race face, but haven't had the best luck with their bearings.

  41. #841
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    Has anyone tried a Mastodon on the ICT yet? If so, would love some feedback. Hows the ride, compared to Bluto? Any interference with the frame if handlebars spin around (saw one review on another bike where the cap didn't clear the frame)

    I've been thinking of putting a fork on it, or sucking it up and buying a full suspension bike....keeping the ICT though just sharing duties.

  42. #842
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    Thank you Pkovo! I too am thinking about a Mastodon...it doesn't seem like anyone has installed one on their ICT yet...

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    Quote Originally Posted by mohrgan View Post
    Thank you Pkovo! I too am thinking about a Mastodon...it doesn't seem like anyone has installed one on their ICT yet...
    No Problem. I have the itch for suspension, but on the fence about whether a suspension fork on this bike is a good call or not. I may just pick up a late model 26" full suspension rig to scratch the itch and keep the ICT the way it is. No one seems to want the 26" rigs any more in my neck of the woods, so there are deals all over.

  44. #844
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    My small ICT frame has plenty of clearance for the Bluto... I can't imagine the Mastodon wouldn't clear, but it doesn't seem like anyone's tried it and reported back yet. As for whether or not to put a fork on the ICT - I stopped riding my 26" Blur LT after I put the Bluto and 29+ on the ICT. The big wheels roll right over stuff that hung up the 26" wheels, even with FS. I ended up selling the BLT for cheap to a buddy that needed a bike to ride. I don't miss it a bit, the ICT does most of what I ride better than the BLT.

    Downsides as I see them... not as easy to accelerate the wheels, and tight switchbacks are trickier. Not quite as plush going down, and the Bluto gets overwhelmed more than the Pike, but I'm not descending any mountains here in the midwest, so it works out ok. For the life of me I don't understand why Rockshox built its fat bike fork on its XC chasis when they had a perfectly good 35mm platform they could have used.

  45. #845
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    My small ICT frame has plenty of clearance for the Bluto... I can't imagine the Mastodon wouldn't clear, but it doesn't seem like anyone's tried it and reported back yet. As for whether or not to put a fork on the ICT - I stopped riding my 26" Blur LT after I put the Bluto and 29+ on the ICT. The big wheels roll right over stuff that hung up the 26" wheels, even with FS. I ended up selling the BLT for cheap to a buddy that needed a bike to ride. I don't miss it a bit, the ICT does most of what I ride better than the BLT.

    Downsides as I see them... not as easy to accelerate the wheels, and tight switchbacks are trickier. Not quite as plush going down, and the Bluto gets overwhelmed more than the Pike, but I'm not descending any mountains here in the midwest, so it works out ok. For the life of me I don't understand why Rockshox built its fat bike fork on its XC chasis when they had a perfectly good 35mm platform they could have used.
    Very interesting on the swap of the Blur. That and a Turner 5 spot were two bikes I was eyeing up used. They honestly went for not much more than the cost of the Mastodon, which is partially why I am having trouble laying down teh cash for the fork.

    I did pick up an inexpensive set of 27.5 wheels over the winter, and just got around to installing them last week. Have yet to test them as I inured myself, but hoping to son. I know I'm going to want a fork even more with these less forgiving wheels/tires. I should probably just pull the trigger.

    I agree on the Bluto, and reading enough reviews about it being flexy is partially what kept me from picking one up. From what I gather, the Mastodon is better in that department. You would think Fox would jump in the game at some point.

    The guy that had clearance issues went from a bluto to a mastodon, and I gathered he didnt have that issue with the bluto. It was a 2017 Farley. It looked to me that he could of takena little off of the compression cap (probably wrong term) witha dremmel and been fine.

    This is the video that makes me want to run out and buy one. But this guy could probably make any fork look fun.

    https://youtu.be/HTGVC8X1_YY

  46. #846
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    mastodon

    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Has anyone tried a Mastodon on the ICT yet? If so, would love some feedback. Hows the ride, compared to Bluto? Any interference with the frame if handlebars spin around (saw one review on another bike where the cap didn't clear the frame)

    I've been thinking of putting a fork on it, or sucking it up and buying a full suspension bike....keeping the ICT though just sharing duties.

    hi all

    mastodon clears downtube on a medium ICT. shown here with 120 Ext Comp.
    pump trick works on the comp version. currently have it set at 90mm
    sadly hasn't been ridden yet.
    gonna be great

    ...had trouble attaching photo
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly ICT thread-20170908_194307.jpg  

    Surly ICT thread-20170908_194307.jpg  

    Surly ICT thread-20170908_194307.jpg  


  47. #847
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    Quote Originally Posted by at.rider View Post
    hi all

    mastodon clears downtube on a medium ICT. shown here with 120 Ext Comp.
    pump trick works on the comp version. currently have it set at 90mm
    sadly hasn't been ridden yet.
    gonna be great

    ...had trouble attaching photo
    Nice to hear, thanks! PLease give a report once you've put it through it's paces.

  48. #848
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Nice to hear, thanks! PLease give a report once you've put it through it's paces.
    I ended just caving in. I ordered a 120 std comp. bought from worldwide cyclery, and with a coupon code I foundnonline it was just under $435 free shipping. I just couldnt resist.

    I did a lot of research before settling on the STD. Supposedly, if I decide I want extra tire clearance for really large tires, I can add spacers to bottom end of the rod. Each spacer raises the bottom out point 10mm. 2 spacers would make the clearance the same as he ext at bottom out. He catch is, doing so reduces travel. I dont care about that though because travel can go up to 150, and I'll never use rhat much. But when Im running my plus wheels I dont need the extra clearance so J can get more suspension travel at the same ride height as compared to the EXT.

    Thisnis all based on what I read so who knows how it will work real world, but the price was right so what the heck. I also think my dillenger 5 tires in 82mm rims will just fit without fiddling with anything. Manitou shows the diameter as a few mm too big for the STD but their chart is based on 60mm rims. The 45north chard shows the diameter on both rim aizes and they should clear. They are pretty small for 5" labeled tires. My knards will require spacers to be added.

    Yes Im a nerd.

  49. #849
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    I ended just caving in. I ordered a 120 std comp. bought from worldwide cyclery, and with a coupon code I foundnonline it was just under $435 free shipping. I just couldnt resist.

    I did a lot of research before settling on the STD. Supposedly, if I decide I want extra tire clearance for really large tires, I can add spacers to bottom end of the rod. Each spacer raises the bottom out point 10mm. 2 spacers would make the clearance the same as he ext at bottom out. He catch is, doing so reduces travel. I dont care about that though because travel can go up to 150, and I'll never use rhat much. But when Im running my plus wheels I dont need the extra clearance so J can get more suspension travel at the same ride height as compared to the EXT.

    Thisnis all based on what I read so who knows how it will work real world, but the price was right so what the heck. I also think my dillenger 5 tires in 82mm rims will just fit without fiddling with anything. Manitou shows the diameter as a few mm too big for the STD but their chart is based on 60mm rims. The 45north chard shows the diameter on both rim aizes and they should clear. They are pretty small for 5" labeled tires. My knards will require spacers to be added.

    Yes Im a nerd.
    Heck yeah I will be diving into the dark caverns of my Wren fork tomorrow in order to reduce travel from 150 to 120mm.

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