Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 56789
Results 801 to 872 of 872
  1. #801
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    So I did some measuring on the ICT fork. Spacing is obviously 150mm, and the fork ends measure 5mm thick on both sides. So the the axle needs to be about 160mm long, not including the threaded portion that will thread into the Paul Components nut.

    The Paragon Machine Works DT025 thru axle is 175mm long from under the skewer head to the end of the axle, with about 15mm threaded portion at the end. That equates to 160mm thru axle portion, perfect! So I ordered one to try out, and already have the Paul nut. I'll report back when I get it to confirm that it actually works.

    Link to the thru axle:

    https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...tion&key=DT025

    Link to the Paul nut (You want the 15mm one for the fork):

    https://paulcomp.com/shop/components...-axle-end-nut/

    Stay tuned!
    Nice! If it works I'll probably get one F&R. The less tools I need to take the better.

  2. #802
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikeny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    3,721
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    So I did some measuring on the ICT fork. Spacing is obviously 150mm, and the fork ends measure 5mm thick on both sides. So the the axle needs to be about 160mm long, not including the threaded portion that will thread into the Paul Components nut.

    The Paragon Machine Works DT025 thru axle is 175mm long from under the skewer head to the end of the axle, with about 15mm threaded portion at the end. That equates to 160mm thru axle portion, perfect! So I ordered one to try out, and already have the Paul nut. I'll report back when I get it to confirm that it actually works.

    Link to the thru axle:

    https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...tion&key=DT025

    Link to the Paul nut (You want the 15mm one for the fork):

    https://paulcomp.com/shop/components...-axle-end-nut/

    Stay tuned!
    Just to follow up, the above mentioned parts are indeed correct for replacing the front thru axle on an ICT fork. Works perfectly.Surly ICT thread-img_3332.jpgSurly ICT thread-img_3333.jpg

  3. #803
    Like a FirePlug
    Reputation: ErvSpanks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    123
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Just to follow up, the above mentioned parts are indeed correct for replacing the front thru axle on an ICT fork. Works perfectly.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3332.jpg 
Views:	188 
Size:	72.9 KB 
ID:	1117918Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3333.jpg 
Views:	174 
Size:	68.0 KB 
ID:	1117919
    Awesome info! Thanks!

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
    Keep the Rubber Side Down

  4. #804
    mtbr member
    Reputation: woody.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    326
    Just got my ICT on Tuesday and took it out 3 days in a row. I rented one a few weeks back and fell in love with it. I ordered the last XXL complete bike, which only comes in yellow. After the shop started looking at it, the thing was all jacked up, rear hub was shot, rotors were roasted, paint chips all over it the frame and fork, rear tire sidewall looked like it was rubbing, on end of box it had a sticker on it "batch test". LBS called Surley and they sent out a black frame and fork and new parts. I prefer the black any day. Rear wheel is a loaner in pic so I could get it out and ride. Will build up a 29+ wheelset and get a frame bag made with that Nice large triangle.

    Absolutely love it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly ICT thread-img_0487.jpg  

    Surly ICT thread-img_0493.jpg  


  5. #805
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ADKMTNBIKER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by scarygary View Post
    Nice bike man!
    What wheels are on that sweet ride! I've got an ICT and am thinking of some 27.5 or 29ers. Haven't decided yet and would love some input as to which would be best for single track trails and some xc.

  6. #806
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ADKMTNBIKER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    703
    Quote Originally Posted by ADKMTNBIKER View Post
    mines still solid after a year of abuse
    Looking at 2 years of a great working bb. No problems here.

  7. #807
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    8
    I'm building a ICT spec ops, I have the surly od crank and was wondering what chain ring and cassette people are for a 1x10 drive. I have a shimano compatible rear hub, was thinking I needed about a 32t front but whose? I'm new to the fat bike world and any help would be greatly appreciated

  8. #808
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Quote Originally Posted by Sixshooter44 View Post
    I'm building a ICT spec ops, I have the surly od crank and was wondering what chain ring and cassette people are for a 1x10 drive. I have a shimano compatible rear hub, was thinking I needed about a 32t front but whose? I'm new to the fat bike world and any help would be greatly appreciated
    Wolftooth chainring, whatever cassette you want.

  9. #809
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Not the best pics, but this is the setup with Turbines and a 170 spindle. Again, no spacers, the pre-load ring sanded down to function as the spacer.





    I just tried this on my bike and it doesn't work! Your BB was made narrower! But how the hell did they do it perfectly flat?! I want to try this. Any advice?

  10. #810
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    171
    Is it even close Charge? Any decent machine shop should be able to mill it down for you, if that's really what you want to do. I guess that's one upside of the press in bearing cups.

  11. #811
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Pretty darn close! .75mm off each side and I'd be rolling fo sho!

  12. #812
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    63
    hey gang...I just ordered a surly ict frame. this will be my first bike build of any kind. I hope you guys will be willing to help me with all my questions....I got the medium Jack Frost frame...everything is new to me.

  13. #813
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Quote Originally Posted by mestude View Post
    hey gang...I just ordered a surly ict frame. this will be my first bike build of any kind. I hope you guys will be willing to help me with all my questions....I got the medium Jack Frost frame...everything is new to me.
    Sweet and fire away with questions!

  14. #814
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    8
    you won't regret it. ❤❤❤ my ICT!!

  15. #815
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    63
    thanks charge....I do have a question about the bottom bracket....this is my first bike build, and I want to find a good durable bottom bracket that will not need modifications...I don't think I can afford if I screw up parts, and then have to rebuy...I like the idea of doing right, doing it once...what do you suggest

  16. #816
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Quote Originally Posted by mestude View Post
    thanks charge....I do have a question about the bottom bracket....this is my first bike build, and I want to find a good durable bottom bracket that will not need modifications...I don't think I can afford if I screw up parts, and then have to rebuy...I like the idea of doing right, doing it once...what do you suggest
    What crankset are you planning on running? If you run a 24mm spindle I recommend a Shimano BB as they are cheap and durable, 30mm spindle and you should run a RaceFace BB.

  17. #817
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Another thing you need to keep in mind is the extra BB width that the ICT has. Any 100mm spindle crankset will *not* work. Nothing from SRAM, no RaceFace ride or RaceFace 170mm cranksets. Pretty much only the Surly OD crank, and the RaceFace 190 cranks.

    Shoot me a PM if you need any parts for your build, I have an extensive parts bin selection.

  18. #818
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    8
    I'm running the surly od crank 1x10 with shimano slx

  19. #819
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,066
    i believe both Hope and Chris King have pressfit bb that will fit the ICT now...

  20. #820
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    63
    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    What crankset are you planning on running? If you run a 24mm spindle I recommend a Shimano BB as they are cheap and durable, 30mm spindle and you should run a RaceFace BB.
    How to I learn about these different components. Is there a reference guide somewhere that would tell me what fits, and why I might want to 24mm over a 30mm.
    I'm a big stocky guy, 5.10. 265lbs. Will that make a difference in parts I should choose.

  21. #821
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Depends on how much you want to spend. The Surly/cheaper RaceFace 190 crank will use a 24mm spindle and the expensive Turbine/Next carbon cranks will run 30mm spindles. Supposedly the 30mm spindle is stiffer but very marginally. Like 0.000000000000001% stiffer when you are putting down 1000 watts.

  22. #822
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    77
    I'm thinking about shedding some wheel weight for the summer on my ICT and have been debating getting a 60-80mm fat wheelset (26") that will shed some weight, or maybe going 29+. My fear is that with 29+ I will end up also wanting a bluto because the ride will get too rigid. I am 200 lbs or so, and ride some rocky trails so I'm not a huge fan of going carbon rims.

    I've been leaning towards the Swiss Br2250 wheelset. In some searching around, it appears this will save 2+ lbs from my wheel weight (clownshoes w/ salsa hubs). More if I switch to 4" tires and go tubeless.
    Will 4" lower my BB too much vs 4.8? Would I see a dramatic improvement in climbing etc. ?

    Up for any suggestions. Basically I will have some money burning a hole in my pocket after I sell my plus bike, and the most logical way to spend it is upgrading the ICT :P

  23. #823
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,505
    Quote Originally Posted by jerrduford View Post
    I'm thinking about shedding some wheel weight for the summer on my ICT and have been debating getting a 60-80mm fat wheelset (26") that will shed some weight, or maybe going 29+. My fear is that with 29+ I will end up also wanting a bluto because the ride will get too rigid. I am 200 lbs or so, and ride some rocky trails so I'm not a huge fan of going carbon rims.

    I've been leaning towards the Swiss Br2250 wheelset. In some searching around, it appears this will save 2+ lbs from my wheel weight (clownshoes w/ salsa hubs). More if I switch to 4" tires and go tubeless.
    Will 4" lower my BB too much vs 4.8? Would I see a dramatic improvement in climbing etc. ?

    Up for any suggestions. Basically I will have some money burning a hole in my pocket after I sell my plus bike, and the most logical way to spend it is upgrading the ICT :P
    I recently built up a pair of Surly Other Brother Darryls for my 197mm fat bike. (Not an Ice Cream Truck) MUCH lighter and faster than my Clownshoes.
    I also have a 29+ wheelset that I love. Currently, I have 3" Chupacabras on it, fully rigis. I weigh about 255. I run 14-15 psi. I also have Jones bars and Wolftooth foam grips so I don't feel the need for a suspension fork.
    I want to try Duro's Crux tire. It's 29x3.25". May be even better.
    I still run 4.8" tires on my OBDs.
    I like turtles

  24. #824
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I recently built up a pair of Surly Other Brother Darryls for my 197mm fat bike. (Not an Ice Cream Truck) MUCH lighter and faster than my Clownshoes.
    I also have a 29+ wheelset that I love. Currently, I have 3" Chupacabras on it, fully rigis. I weigh about 255. I run 14-15 psi. I also have Jones bars and Wolftooth foam grips so I don't feel the need for a suspension fork.
    I want to try Duro's Crux tire. It's 29x3.25". May be even better.
    I still run 4.8" tires on my OBDs.
    Thanks for sharing your experience. I really like the new MOBD's too - They come stock on the 2017 ICT. I hear setting them up tubeless is also a snap?

    Do you find yourself using the 29+ or MOBD more often? Have you tried 4" on the MOBD set?

  25. #825
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    65
    I run 4" on the original Darryls over the summer, and 5" over the winter. The bottom bracket is noticeably lower, but it isn't terrible. It isn't bad enough to prevent me from doing it every year (bought my ICT in early 2015, so this is my 3rd season). In my opinion, the bike rides really well with a fast rolling 4" tire (I use Husker Dus). It's a pretty good compromise without the cost of a second wheelset.

  26. #826
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,066
    a second wheelset is a nice addition to an ICT though...im in the desert though so the only change in conditions is how hot it is,the nature of the surfaces doesnt change,its always loose and rocky...

  27. #827
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,505
    Quote Originally Posted by jerrduford View Post
    Thanks for sharing your experience. I really like the new MOBD's too - They come stock on the 2017 ICT. I hear setting them up tubeless is also a snap?

    Do you find yourself using the 29+ or MOBD more often? Have you tried 4" on the MOBD set?
    I have not put any 4" tires on the MOBDs. No point, in my opinion. Depending on the conditions, I'll ride full fat, 29+ or sometimes, fat front and 29+ on the rear. Bike is awesome like that. faster and tears up corners. Place near my house is very sandy. Works well there.
    MOBDs are super easy tubeless. When I originally built them, I had no faith and I set them up split tubeless. Used Bud and Lou since it was winter and we had snow. When I swapped Lou for the 4.8 Knard, I took a chance and used Whiskey Tape and set it up straight tubeless. Tire seated instantly and has not given me a single problem in two months.
    I like turtles

  28. #828
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by jerrduford View Post
    I'm thinking about shedding some wheel weight for the summer on my ICT and have been debating getting a 60-80mm fat wheelset (26") that will shed some weight, or maybe going 29+. My fear is that with 29+ I will end up also wanting a bluto because the ride will get too rigid. I am 200 lbs or so, and ride some rocky trails so I'm not a huge fan of going carbon rims.

    I've been leaning towards the Swiss Br2250 wheelset. In some searching around, it appears this will save 2+ lbs from my wheel weight (clownshoes w/ salsa hubs). More if I switch to 4" tires and go tubeless.
    Will 4" lower my BB too much vs 4.8? Would I see a dramatic improvement in climbing etc. ?

    Up for any suggestions. Basically I will have some money burning a hole in my pocket after I sell my plus bike, and the most logical way to spend it is upgrading the ICT :P
    I bought the Borealis tubeless wheelset and used FattyStrippers w/4" Jumbo Jims. The difference was night and day. Took my ICT from fun fat trail bike to a bike that could actually accelerate. Monet well spent!

  29. #829
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    63
    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    Depends on how much you want to spend. The Surly/cheaper RaceFace 190 crank will use a 24mm spindle and the expensive Turbine/Next carbon cranks will run 30mm spindles. Supposedly the 30mm spindle is stiffer but very marginally. Like 0.000000000000001% stiffer when you are putting down 1000 watts.
    So which bottom bracket, spindle and cranks should I get. Which will fit without a problem

  30. #830
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    2,066
    Quote Originally Posted by mestude View Post
    So which bottom bracket, spindle and cranks should I get. Which will fit without a problem
    that would depend on what you mean by "without a problem"...
    the surly crank/bb would no doubt be the easiest to install,good cranks,pretty bombproof,maybe a tad heavy,but like most surly products it will stand up to a lot of abuse...
    the aeffect is a good crank as well,dont have any experience with them in the context of an ICT though...
    i have a turbine crank/bb...its a great crank/bb so far except for having to pull it apart and clean and re-grease everything about every three months when it starts creaking again,so you need the cinch cap tool,and you can expect to have to replace the nylon pre load collar once a year or so...but aside from that no complaints!

  31. #831
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    77
    Thinking about Bluto-ing my ICT and am a suspension noob. Is this the correct crown race for the stock headset? Cane Creek 110 1.5" Alloy Crown Race > Components > Headsets > Crown Races | Jenson USA
    Also, I ride a medium 2016 ICT (Jack Frost Blue). Will the 120 RCT3 bluto clear the downtube, or do I have to go 100?

  32. #832
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    171
    That's the crown race I used on my Bluto. I'm riding a 100mm on a small frame... it doesn't seem like the fork travel matters a bit for crown clearance; that is fixed by the location and angle of the headtube (with respect to the downtube) and should be the same for the Bluto regardless of travel.

  33. #833
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    That's the crown race I used on my Bluto. I'm riding a 100mm on a small frame... it doesn't seem like the fork travel matters a bit for crown clearance; that is fixed by the location and angle of the headtube (with respect to the downtube) and should be the same for the Bluto regardless of travel.
    Doh! Not sure why I couldn't figure that out on my own.
    I assume most go with the 100 over the 120 because it affects the 'stock' geo less?

  34. #834
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    171
    Yeah, the axle to crown on the 100 is pretty much the same as the Surly fork, so geometry is pretty much the same. I with the 120, you'll slack it out a bit; that could be a good thing if you have descents you can bomb and don't do too much technical climbing. The trails I ride most have a lot of the latter and not much of the former, so I decided to stick with the 100. I have a couple spots where the front end is trying to come off the ground when maneuvering uphill switch backs, even with the 100. It's not bad, but I don't want it any slacker.

  35. #835
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    Yeah, the axle to crown on the 100 is pretty much the same as the Surly fork, so geometry is pretty much the same. I with the 120, you'll slack it out a bit; that could be a good thing if you have descents you can bomb and don't do too much technical climbing. The trails I ride most have a lot of the latter and not much of the former, so I decided to stick with the 100. I have a couple spots where the front end is trying to come off the ground when maneuvering uphill switch backs, even with the 100. It's not bad, but I don't want it any slacker.
    Thanks for the explanation! I got a really sweet deal on a 120 RCT3 so I couldn't help but go with that model. It is a cut steerer (about 3/4" shorter than where I'm at now with the stock fork), so I'm thinking that the slightly lower bars will help to make up the difference in weight on the front wheel.

    Hoping I can order that crown race and get it on by myself without buying any special tools to press it in. Seems like others have had success with hammer/rubber mallet.

  36. #836
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    171
    A crown race set helps in getting it installed properly. If you're not using one, I'd at least try to find a length of pipe that you could use to get it set evenly. I wouldn't recommend trying to pound on an aluminum race directly with a hammer. Your local bike shop would probably set it for you for a few bucks.

  37. #837
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    8
    Hi, has anyone tried SRAM GX Eagle setup on this bike? I was planning on trying it with wolftooth OD chainring. I didn't know the cassette was dished so I guess the tire clearance will be less than normal 1x systems? Was hoping this would work with 2XLs, but not so sure anymore.

  38. #838
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    I just tried this on my bike and it doesn't work! Your BB was made narrower! But how the hell did they do it perfectly flat?! I want to try this. Any advice?
    Sorry for the super delayed response. I'm not really sure how it was done....bought it with this setup. Maybe just a Bottom Bracket Shell Facing Tool? I have no experience with one, but the way it threads through the BB seems like it would be forced flat.

    It's certainly still running strong with this setup. Just threw on a set of 27.5" wheels with 3" tires to try a different flavor.

  39. #839
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    307
    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Sorry for the super delayed response. I'm not really sure how it was done....bought it with this setup. Maybe just a Bottom Bracket Shell Facing Tool? I have no experience with one, but the way it threads through the BB seems like it would be forced flat.

    It's certainly still running strong with this setup. Just threw on a set of 27.5" wheels with 3" tires to try a different flavor.
    Can you measure the Bottom Bracket shell for us in MM? Thanks!

  40. #840
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Measuring with bike assembled just using a ruler, I get 130mm. Looking online I found 132 and 132.5mm listed as the shell width, so it doesn't seem like too much has been "faced" off.

    Remember, this setup fits, but not in the traditional way. I have no spacers, and sanded down the cinch piece to make it fit and act as a spacer. That said, (knock on wood) it doesn't give me problems.

    If/when my cranks have made any creak type noise, and it isn't much, I have just added a few drops of tri-flow along where the cinch piece butts up against the shell, and it quiets it right out.

    The race face bearings on one side aren't perfectly smooth, which I noticed the day I got it home and started messing with it, but they haven't gotten any worse. With the bike assembled they feel smooth. Apart, turning by hand, there's a little roughness. I expected to have to have replaced them by now, but Will keep em going as long as I can, and then replace with something else....hope maybe. I like Race face, but haven't had the best luck with their bearings.

  41. #841
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Has anyone tried a Mastodon on the ICT yet? If so, would love some feedback. Hows the ride, compared to Bluto? Any interference with the frame if handlebars spin around (saw one review on another bike where the cap didn't clear the frame)

    I've been thinking of putting a fork on it, or sucking it up and buying a full suspension bike....keeping the ICT though just sharing duties.

  42. #842
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    307
    Thank you Pkovo! I too am thinking about a Mastodon...it doesn't seem like anyone has installed one on their ICT yet...

  43. #843
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by mohrgan View Post
    Thank you Pkovo! I too am thinking about a Mastodon...it doesn't seem like anyone has installed one on their ICT yet...
    No Problem. I have the itch for suspension, but on the fence about whether a suspension fork on this bike is a good call or not. I may just pick up a late model 26" full suspension rig to scratch the itch and keep the ICT the way it is. No one seems to want the 26" rigs any more in my neck of the woods, so there are deals all over.

  44. #844
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    171
    My small ICT frame has plenty of clearance for the Bluto... I can't imagine the Mastodon wouldn't clear, but it doesn't seem like anyone's tried it and reported back yet. As for whether or not to put a fork on the ICT - I stopped riding my 26" Blur LT after I put the Bluto and 29+ on the ICT. The big wheels roll right over stuff that hung up the 26" wheels, even with FS. I ended up selling the BLT for cheap to a buddy that needed a bike to ride. I don't miss it a bit, the ICT does most of what I ride better than the BLT.

    Downsides as I see them... not as easy to accelerate the wheels, and tight switchbacks are trickier. Not quite as plush going down, and the Bluto gets overwhelmed more than the Pike, but I'm not descending any mountains here in the midwest, so it works out ok. For the life of me I don't understand why Rockshox built its fat bike fork on its XC chasis when they had a perfectly good 35mm platform they could have used.

  45. #845
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    My small ICT frame has plenty of clearance for the Bluto... I can't imagine the Mastodon wouldn't clear, but it doesn't seem like anyone's tried it and reported back yet. As for whether or not to put a fork on the ICT - I stopped riding my 26" Blur LT after I put the Bluto and 29+ on the ICT. The big wheels roll right over stuff that hung up the 26" wheels, even with FS. I ended up selling the BLT for cheap to a buddy that needed a bike to ride. I don't miss it a bit, the ICT does most of what I ride better than the BLT.

    Downsides as I see them... not as easy to accelerate the wheels, and tight switchbacks are trickier. Not quite as plush going down, and the Bluto gets overwhelmed more than the Pike, but I'm not descending any mountains here in the midwest, so it works out ok. For the life of me I don't understand why Rockshox built its fat bike fork on its XC chasis when they had a perfectly good 35mm platform they could have used.
    Very interesting on the swap of the Blur. That and a Turner 5 spot were two bikes I was eyeing up used. They honestly went for not much more than the cost of the Mastodon, which is partially why I am having trouble laying down teh cash for the fork.

    I did pick up an inexpensive set of 27.5 wheels over the winter, and just got around to installing them last week. Have yet to test them as I inured myself, but hoping to son. I know I'm going to want a fork even more with these less forgiving wheels/tires. I should probably just pull the trigger.

    I agree on the Bluto, and reading enough reviews about it being flexy is partially what kept me from picking one up. From what I gather, the Mastodon is better in that department. You would think Fox would jump in the game at some point.

    The guy that had clearance issues went from a bluto to a mastodon, and I gathered he didnt have that issue with the bluto. It was a 2017 Farley. It looked to me that he could of takena little off of the compression cap (probably wrong term) witha dremmel and been fine.

    This is the video that makes me want to run out and buy one. But this guy could probably make any fork look fun.

    https://youtu.be/HTGVC8X1_YY

  46. #846
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    8

    mastodon

    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Has anyone tried a Mastodon on the ICT yet? If so, would love some feedback. Hows the ride, compared to Bluto? Any interference with the frame if handlebars spin around (saw one review on another bike where the cap didn't clear the frame)

    I've been thinking of putting a fork on it, or sucking it up and buying a full suspension bike....keeping the ICT though just sharing duties.

    hi all

    mastodon clears downtube on a medium ICT. shown here with 120 Ext Comp.
    pump trick works on the comp version. currently have it set at 90mm
    sadly hasn't been ridden yet.
    gonna be great

    ...had trouble attaching photo
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly ICT thread-20170908_194307.jpg  

    Surly ICT thread-20170908_194307.jpg  

    Surly ICT thread-20170908_194307.jpg  


  47. #847
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by at.rider View Post
    hi all

    mastodon clears downtube on a medium ICT. shown here with 120 Ext Comp.
    pump trick works on the comp version. currently have it set at 90mm
    sadly hasn't been ridden yet.
    gonna be great

    ...had trouble attaching photo
    Nice to hear, thanks! PLease give a report once you've put it through it's paces.

  48. #848
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Nice to hear, thanks! PLease give a report once you've put it through it's paces.
    I ended just caving in. I ordered a 120 std comp. bought from worldwide cyclery, and with a coupon code I foundnonline it was just under $435 free shipping. I just couldnt resist.

    I did a lot of research before settling on the STD. Supposedly, if I decide I want extra tire clearance for really large tires, I can add spacers to bottom end of the rod. Each spacer raises the bottom out point 10mm. 2 spacers would make the clearance the same as he ext at bottom out. He catch is, doing so reduces travel. I dont care about that though because travel can go up to 150, and I'll never use rhat much. But when Im running my plus wheels I dont need the extra clearance so J can get more suspension travel at the same ride height as compared to the EXT.

    Thisnis all based on what I read so who knows how it will work real world, but the price was right so what the heck. I also think my dillenger 5 tires in 82mm rims will just fit without fiddling with anything. Manitou shows the diameter as a few mm too big for the STD but their chart is based on 60mm rims. The 45north chard shows the diameter on both rim aizes and they should clear. They are pretty small for 5" labeled tires. My knards will require spacers to be added.

    Yes Im a nerd.

  49. #849
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    700
    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    I ended just caving in. I ordered a 120 std comp. bought from worldwide cyclery, and with a coupon code I foundnonline it was just under $435 free shipping. I just couldnt resist.

    I did a lot of research before settling on the STD. Supposedly, if I decide I want extra tire clearance for really large tires, I can add spacers to bottom end of the rod. Each spacer raises the bottom out point 10mm. 2 spacers would make the clearance the same as he ext at bottom out. He catch is, doing so reduces travel. I dont care about that though because travel can go up to 150, and I'll never use rhat much. But when Im running my plus wheels I dont need the extra clearance so J can get more suspension travel at the same ride height as compared to the EXT.

    Thisnis all based on what I read so who knows how it will work real world, but the price was right so what the heck. I also think my dillenger 5 tires in 82mm rims will just fit without fiddling with anything. Manitou shows the diameter as a few mm too big for the STD but their chart is based on 60mm rims. The 45north chard shows the diameter on both rim aizes and they should clear. They are pretty small for 5" labeled tires. My knards will require spacers to be added.

    Yes Im a nerd.
    Heck yeah I will be diving into the dark caverns of my Wren fork tomorrow in order to reduce travel from 150 to 120mm.

  50. #850
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Been running the Mastodon for a while now. The STD version set with stock 120mm travel. Currently running 27.5 wheels with 3.8 Hodag tires.

    It's been great. I was worried about the change in geometry, but it's fine set at 120mm. Anything I might lose in climbing, it more than makes up for in descending, and honestly I don't feel like it lost much of anything on the climbs anyway; front end isn't wandering on me or coming up. For me this is what this bike needed to be a true all a rounder.

    That said, I'm coming from the perspective of rigid, with the stock ICT fork, so perhaps I would feel the same way using any other front suspension (i.e. Bluto). I no longer feel outgunned on the descents riding with a group of mostly full suspension bikes.

    Attachment 1166004

  51. #851
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    20
    Have you tried fitting the Dillinger 5 in the fork ?

  52. #852
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Surly View Post
    Have you tried fitting the Dillinger 5 in the fork ?
    No. It was there plan, and I set one up, but the second wouldnt air up. Turned out it has a decent sized tear. I patched it, but havent mounted it yet. Not feeling great about running it tubeless patched, and I dont want to run tubes, so not sure what I'll do.

    I have a little time before any real snow will fall here I think, so for now the 3.8" hodags will do.

  53. #853
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    4
    Great info. Thanks for sharing.

  54. #854
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    39
    Edit: I found my answers:
    Rf BB shell: https://youtu.be/aQBGOIKGuAo
    Rf Crankset: https://youtu.be/cUdi67QJ6bo

    Which BB sleeve do you guys use for the RF cinch? Bought a used frame which didn't have the BB or anything else. I know you can run the bearings without the sleeve no problem, just have to watch the exposure to fluids - but I would rather not go this route, at least not with RF bearings. Surly states their BB shell is 132.5mm and apparently there is a RF BB sleeve to match. I bought an RF crank & spindle (for 190mm)and then a BB sleeve & adaptor kit (the little 5mm spacers) which according to that seller supposedly fits the ICT BB, yet it clearly states for max 124mm BB only (it measures 107~8 mm itself). It doesn't help that upon asking for guidance, the seller turned into a patronizing, chest-thumping bozo, sooo...any help, Tia!
    Last edited by Vilendank; 11-18-2017 at 08:24 PM. Reason: Found new information

  55. #855
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by zzoebl View Post
    Hi, has anyone tried SRAM GX Eagle setup on this bike?
    Late answer but I am here because in the web pretty hard to find any info about Surly Ice Cream Truck with Sram Eagle builds.

    I am looking to buy exact the same combination. SRAM Eagle crankset for 190/197 rear hubs has 74.5 mm chainline. So actually you can install any 1x crankset with chainline more than 74 mm and it should work with SRAM Eagle 1x12 cassete without chain rub on 4.8 tires (at least we are mimic SRAM design here).

    My weapon of choice is Race Face Turbine cranks for 190 rear hubs. And with direct mount chainring I will have 78.5 mm chainline. Even if this will be worse that 74.5 mm I can try other chainline options on this crankset.

    Hope this post will help to everyone looking for Surly ICT + SRAM Eagle setup.

  56. #856
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by Vilendank View Post
    This is best than words. Great vids, thx for sharing. Looks like Race Face BB124 is the only option for bottom bracket inner sleeve on Surly ICT.

  57. #857
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Surly View Post
    Have you tried fitting the Dillinger 5 in the fork ?
    I never got the dillinger 5 mounted up front. Once I repaired it, the bead was bad anyway.

    Instead I mounted up a 4.8" knard with about 70% tread Which is bigger and it clears. I dont have the clearance to the Arch that Manitou calls for (26mm) I have more like 18-19mm. However it doesnt rub. I gues in a huge hit if you compressed the bottom out bumper than maybe it would, but seems really unlikely. So anyway, I dont see the need to run anything larger than this so I'llnprobably never need to play around with Spacers to gain tire clearance.

    The mastodon thread has a tonnof info and guys have run all kinds of large tires without incident. Some risk in not having minimum clearance but I think the Manitou numbers have a lot of "extra" space built in to ensure no issues.

    Still Love the fork. Made this bike more fun for a wide variety of riding. Its my "do it all" bike

  58. #858
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    6
    So recently after several unsuccessful attempts to acquire a complete in my size of several various types of fatties, I came to the conclusion I want to build my own custom. So this week I ordered an XXL ICT frame set from my LBS. Ultimately I am going to use my ICT as a 4 season trail bike while also light bike packing rig (~3-5 days per trip). Being an amateur mechanic at best, before I embark on this build I have several questions to help orient the direction of my build. What is everyone’s preferred drivetrain setup (1x-2x11-12?), raceface/Shimano/SRAM?, # of teeth on ring etc? Any and all recommendations are appreciated. Looking forward to starting this project and finally learning the nuances of bike building.

  59. #859
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by HendryxMTB View Post
    So recently after several unsuccessful attempts to acquire a complete in my size of several various types of fatties, I came to the conclusion I want to build my own custom. So this week I ordered an XXL ICT frame set from my LBS. Ultimately I am going to use my ICT as a 4 season trail bike while also light bike packing rig (~3-5 days per trip). Being an amateur mechanic at best, before I embark on this build I have several questions to help orient the direction of my build. What is everyone’s preferred drivetrain setup (1x-2x11-12?), raceface/Shimano/SRAM?, # of teeth on ring etc? Any and all recommendations are appreciated. Looking forward to starting this project and finally learning the nuances of bike building.
    You need to tell people where you're going to be riding and how strong of a rider you are if you want meaningful recommendations as to what gearing you should run. A strong rider with mostly flat terrain will gear their bike a lot differently then a weaker rider with a lot of steep climbs. You'll also have to provide some info on your budget.

    It's been a long time since I looked into drivetrain options for my ICT, but the easiest solution is probably the Surly OD crankset, converted to 1x (they have a blog post somewhere on their site with details about chainline and spacers if you do that), with a Shimano rear derailleur. Last I knew, SRAM required an adapter that wasn't readily available, but someone who has tried it may be able to correct that statement. A few people have Raceface Cinch cranksets. I'm guessing at this point there is a proven formula to make that work, and that would give you more options on chainrings.

    Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk

  60. #860
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeR91 View Post
    You need to tell people where you're going to be riding and how strong of a rider you are if you want meaningful recommendations as to what gearing you should run. A strong rider with mostly flat terrain will gear their bike a lot differently then a weaker rider with a lot of steep climbs. You'll also have to provide some info on your budget.
    It's been a long time since I looked into drivetrain options for my ICT, but the easiest solution is probably the Surly OD crankset, converted to 1x (they have a blog post somewhere on their site with details about chainline and spacers if you do that), with a Shimano rear derailleur. Last I knew, SRAM required an adapter that wasn't readily available, but someone who has tried it may be able to correct that statement. A few people have Raceface Cinch cranksets. I'm guessing at this point there is a proven formula to make that work, and that would give you more options on chainrings.”

    Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk
    Fair points, I live in Eugene Oregon and spend the majority of my time riding in western Oregon; Eugene to the coast, Oak Ridge, and Bend. The riding is mostly single track with a great network of trails. The local geography tends toward lots of elevation changes long climbs punctuated by steeps , open exposure/off camber riding, fun flowing descents, lots of roots. For my technical skill as a rider I would rate myself slightly above average, I am comfortable ridind black diamonds but have to take it slow occasionally. While my trial skills need work but are still improving. My rides typically range from 10-20 miles/day currently, with my biggest weak spot consistently is climbing as I am 6’6 and hover around 260. My price range is around $3000 ideally, but I am in no huge hurry with this project so I am open to saving for quality parts.

  61. #861
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    65
    Here is the blog post on Surly's site about running 1x with the OD cranks: https://surlybikes.com/blog/od_crank...11_drivetrains

    Surly has a 28t chainring for the inner location. In my opinion, with an 11-42t cassette, that provides an adequate gear range for most trail riding. You can definitely top it out on the downhills (you'll be pedaling hard to get above 20mph) so you'll have to decide if that is a problem. It provides more than enough low end for long steep climbs, which you said you'll be doing, and admitted it is one area where you are weaker. The downside is that you really can't run bigger than a 28t on that inner ring because of frame clearance, so if you go that route, you'll be limited in the future. They also describe how to use the outer with a spacer kit to run a more standard bolt pattern, and I think places like Wolftooth give you more options for chainrings if you go that way, but you might be starting at a 30 or 32. I'm going by your own comments on your climbing ability, and I'm going to say running a 32 in the front won't be low enough gearing for those long climbs. If you go the OD crank route, you can always run a 28t on the inside position for now, and switch to the outside with a 32 later if you want, without having to replace the crankset (you'll just need to buy the spacer kit they mentioned and the new chainring).

    Based on my experience with different brands / components, my recommendation would be Shimano XT rear derailleur, cassette and shifter. You have the option for 11-42t or 11-46t cassette. Since they are both 11 speed, the 11-46t is going to have some bigger jumps. My wife has the 11-46t, I've got the 11-42t, and in my opinion, the shifting is better on the 11-42t. Whether or not you need the lower gearing might depend a bit on what you decide to do with the front chainring, but my recommendation would be to pair the 11-42t with the 28t front.

    For what it's worth, I run 11-42t on my ICT and on my regular mountain bike. I run 28t front on the ICT, and 32t on the mountain bike. I consider myself a strong climber, and I believe I would be fine with a 32t on the ICT most of the time, but in the winter, in the snow, when it is hard to carry speed into climbs or stand and mash your way up, it's nice to sit back and spin the lower gearing.

    Hopefully someone will chime in and tell you what your options are with the Raceface Cinch setup. I think it's more versatile, and if there is a bolt-on setup, really might be a better choice than the OD cranks. Unfortunately, I can't seem to break the OD crankset that came on my ICT, so I haven't really investigated changing them out yet.

    Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk

  62. #862
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    307
    Wolftooth makes a 28T ring for the outboard chainring position on a Surly OD crank for the ICT.

  63. #863
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,505
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeR91 View Post
    Here is the blog post on Surly's site about running 1x with the OD cranks: https://surlybikes.com/blog/od_crank...11_drivetrains

    Surly has a 28t chainring for the inner location. In my opinion, with an 11-42t cassette, that provides an adequate gear range for most trail riding. You can definitely top it out on the downhills (you'll be pedaling hard to get above 20mph) so you'll have to decide if that is a problem. It provides more than enough low end for long steep climbs, which you said you'll be doing, and admitted it is one area where you are weaker. The downside is that you really can't run bigger than a 28t on that inner ring because of frame clearance, so if you go that route, you'll be limited in the future. They also describe how to use the outer with a spacer kit to run a more standard bolt pattern, and I think places like Wolftooth give you more options for chainrings if you go that way, but you might be starting at a 30 or 32. I'm going by your own comments on your climbing ability, and I'm going to say running a 32 in the front won't be low enough gearing for those long climbs. If you go the OD crank route, you can always run a 28t on the inside position for now, and switch to the outside with a 32 later if you want, without having to replace the crankset (you'll just need to buy the spacer kit they mentioned and the new chainring).

    Based on my experience with different brands / components, my recommendation would be Shimano XT rear derailleur, cassette and shifter. You have the option for 11-42t or 11-46t cassette. Since they are both 11 speed, the 11-46t is going to have some bigger jumps. My wife has the 11-46t, I've got the 11-42t, and in my opinion, the shifting is better on the 11-42t. Whether or not you need the lower gearing might depend a bit on what you decide to do with the front chainring, but my recommendation would be to pair the 11-42t with the 28t front.

    For what it's worth, I run 11-42t on my ICT and on my regular mountain bike. I run 28t front on the ICT, and 32t on the mountain bike. I consider myself a strong climber, and I believe I would be fine with a 32t on the ICT most of the time, but in the winter, in the snow, when it is hard to carry speed into climbs or stand and mash your way up, it's nice to sit back and spin the lower gearing.

    Hopefully someone will chime in and tell you what your options are with the Raceface Cinch setup. I think it's more versatile, and if there is a bolt-on setup, really might be a better choice than the OD cranks. Unfortunately, I can't seem to break the OD crankset that came on my ICT, so I haven't really investigated changing them out yet.

    Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk
    I have the OD crankset on two bikes. One is a two by ten. The other is 1x11 with the stainless Surly on the inner bolts. Both work fine. If the ten speed drivetrain ever takes a dump I'll replace it with 1 by 11 also.
    I've built three 190mm fat bikes with Race Face Cince cranks and my own Krampus. I really like the Cinch system, I only wish they made em in 180mm length.
    I like turtles

  64. #864
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    401
    Anyone try 26x4" tires on their ICT? I'm contemplating saving Bud and Lou further abuse and trying some lighter/narrower tires.

  65. #865
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    171
    What rims are you running? If they are RD or RD2s (or other ~80mm rim) 4" tires are great. I would think a 4" tire would be pretty squared off on a Clownshoe.

  66. #866
    mtbr member
    Reputation: woody.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    326
    A buddy of mine just bought a Pugs and the guy (Mike C) he got it from build a 27.5 wheelset with 4” tires for it. Plenty of clearance and he loves it.

  67. #867
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by asollie View Post
    Ok, I'm running a Duct Tape / Gorilla Tape tubeless setup now. Its holding air, at least so far. We'll see how it does in the morning.

    With the XXL frame, stock components, plus a Bluto and a Reverb Dropper Post, my scale is saying 38.0 pounds. I would guess without the Reverb and with a smaller frame you'd be around 36 pounds. With the frame bags filled with snacks, water, tools, a spare tube, a first aide kit, etc etc, the whole setup is around 55 pounds. But it beats wearing a backpack!
    ...
    Last edited by aminkman; 03-19-2018 at 07:21 PM. Reason: not relevant

  68. #868
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    9,505
    Also have a look at the Surly Ednas. Great looking tires.
    I like turtles

  69. #869
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    155
    Great thread, very cool info.
    Last edited by Paul Fithian; 04-14-2018 at 12:40 AM.
    Yukon Truck
    Novatec / Mulefut 80's
    Tsunami 4.9's

  70. #870
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ryguy79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,760
    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Also have a look at the Surly Ednas. Great looking tires.
    Yep. I really liked the Edna in the few rides I got in before switching to studs for the winter. Almost time to switch from my studded tires back to them.

  71. #871
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by woody.1 View Post
    A buddy of mine just bought a Pugs and the guy (Mike C) he got it from build a 27.5 wheelset with 4” tires for it. Plenty of clearance and he loves it.
    I run 27.5 with 3.8" tires on 50 mm rims outside of winter, and I prefer them to full fat. Obviously not as good on snow, but for dry conditions so much more lively. I just swapped my wheels this week and took my first ride on them after running 5" tires on 80 mm rims all winter and it felt so good to be back on the lighter more nimble setup

    I think 29"+ with 2.8" or 3" tires would probably be great also. I tried 3" tires on 27.5 and it was quick and fun but BB was too low for my liking. Too many rock strikes for me.
    Last edited by Pkovo; 04-15-2018 at 08:44 PM.

  72. #872
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    77
    Anyone ever happen to try and touch-up a jack frost blue ICT? Two Blue ICT's in the family and we love them. Thousands of mixed adventure miles, and their fare share of scars. Normally I just leave them and make sure they don't rust, but a recent trip rubbed the drive side chain stay on one, and the non-drive chain stay on the other quite raw. It bothers me enough to want to touch it up if possible...
    Surly ICT thread-20180705_071440.jpg

Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 56789

Similar Threads

  1. SURLY KramPug thread...
    By coastkid71 in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 332
    Last Post: 3 Weeks Ago, 10:30 AM
  2. Replies: 17
    Last Post: 01-10-2016, 09:03 PM
  3. My Surly Necromancer Experience Thread
    By Keski in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 134
    Last Post: 12-26-2014, 08:24 PM
  4. 24" Surly Ogre Build Thread
    By fatpig in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 09-15-2012, 09:34 AM
  5. Surly Bikes Film Thread
    By coastkid71 in forum Surly
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-24-2011, 07:09 PM

Members who have read this thread: 119

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

mtbr.com and the ConsumerReview Network are business units of Invenda Corporation

(C) Copyright 1996-2018. All Rights Reserved.