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  1. #1
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    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike

    Hello everyone,
    It is the year of the fatbike. Does anyone out there have any thoughts or experience with State Bicycle Co. and more specifically the Megalith. I would like to stay true to my singlespeed addiction. Any thoughts on any brand that offer a ss fatty are welcome. There is a budget here, as per my wife says not to spend as much as usual, which means less than $1000 if posslble. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    I'm concerned by the "one size fits riders from 5'2" to 6'4"" claim.

  3. #3
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    With a ~$1000 budget...buy a Framed or SE Bike.

    Framed Bikes

    SE Bikes F-E 2015 ? Pedal The Planet

  4. #4
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    Maybe get a new wife?
    I like turtles

  5. #5
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    $700 for a SS does not seem like much of a deal to me, and ditto on the one-size-fits-all nonsense.

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    I think maybe stick with my original Surly Pug ss and lighten the price a bit..

  7. #7
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    I was in the same boat as you. I ended up finding a good deal on lightly used 2014 Mukluk. Had I not found that bike I would have gone Framed or BD. Both offer a good deal for the money. I ride a single speed, but I prefer my fatbike geared. You can always convert it to ss for little or no money.

  8. #8
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    State has always been a third rate brand. I wouldn't expect too much.

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    This might be an old thread but I found it when I was looking for info on the bike and just couldn't find much. What couple of reviews I did find weren't done by any well known review site. In any case, they've been running a 20% off deal so I took the plunge.

    So far, the experience has sucked. The bike has a ton of issues. All of the components are ridiculously low end junk parts. The headset wobbled on first use so I took the fork out to take a peek and saw exposed bearings in thin foil trays. New headset is on the way. The fork wouldn't mount to line the brake rotor within the brake caliper and instead was pushed up against the brake body, mounting hardware and all. I ended up running to Home Depot for a 3/8" lock washer to put between the hub and the fork and that worked. I also chatted with their online salesperson when I first encountered this problem and he/she said to email them at info@statebicycle.com. I did and never got a reply, even days later. I don't expect I ever will (and I did check junk mail and what not).

    When I finally got it assembled, I noticed the chainline just looked awful. The chain ring really needs to come inboard about 10-15mm. It really looks pretty exaggerated but I figured if it was built this way, it must work. So I went on a snow ride with one of my local Meetup groups. I ended up losing the group over and over as I derailed every 10 rotations or so. Tightening the tensioner at the jockey wheel helped but I still derailed on anything pointed up (where enough power was put down). This drivetrain just won't work and will need to be upgraded. It didn't derail while riding test rides around the block so I imagine getting it wet might've been the tipping point. I'm just looking at this purchase as a frame with no support at this point.

    Oh, and notice how all the bikes at State have five star reviews. Well, I submitted one too but it's not there.

  10. #10
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    Get ?em while they?re fat. | Blog | Surly Bikes

    If the OP still needs a fat bike for around a G, this will probably save his marriage.
    I like turtles

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Get ?em while they?re fat. | Blog | Surly Bikes

    If the OP still needs a fat bike for around a G, this will probably save his marriage.
    Those prices are great! If only I knew, I'd have gone for a Pug SS instead.

  12. #12
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    Good job! New Megalith owner

    Just got a Megalith on 1/5/2016
    Order # 521522
    Avid BMX'er from 1985-2007.
    Was focusing on building a racecar for last 5 years, and have not been biking or owned a bike in that time period

    I slowly came to my senses. Sold off all my ridiculously expensive car parts, and decided to build a fatbike and get back into riding often. (cars are a WASTE of Money that you will Never get back!!!)

    Hence I am new member, and this is my first post.
    I have receipt, and pics i can send if anyone things I came on here solely to try and belittle State Bicycles.
    I simply want to relay my experience with the bike, point out issues, and possibly keep other bicyclists from making mistake purchasing this bike if it's not exactly what they want in the end.

    Upgrades immediately installed upon assembly.
    Hayes Prime Pro F/R
    Glyde GIII SC 203mm Rotors F/R
    Sram X0 shifter
    Sram x9 rear Derailleur
    Sram PG-1050 10 Speed Cassette
    Wolf Tooth 32T Elliptical Chainring
    Answer DJ 50mm Stem
    Deity Topsoil Bars
    Renthal Kevlar Grips
    Vee Mission 26x4.0 tires

    When adjusting brakes, i noticed the IS mounts are extremely far from being perpendicular to the axle centerline. the 203mm rotors made this even worse of an issue. Out of the box, the Rear IS mounts came shimmed between Frame and IS mount with washers to try and get a usable alignment.

    I've been fabricating (from sheetmetal to 1.5" steel) for nearly 20 years. So i took my trusty Dewalt 4.5" grinder and spent some time fixing the mounts. I have a small knee MILL, but didn't want to spend the time fixturing the Fork, and frame to mill the mounts. I know Park makes a disc mount milling tool, but i'm not gonna pay for that when i can do it with equipment in my garage that I already own.

    You may ask, why the trouble? I have a garage full of tools, bender, etc. This took me about 15 minutes to fix. Alot less hassle (FOR ME) than partially reassembling the bike and having to ship it back. what a pain in the ass.

    Also, there is a 3/16" section of the Seatpost/Toptube joint where the weld is severely undercut, or possibly missing and the paint filled the void.
    doesn't seem like a huge issue. I may pull out my Tig and weld that area in the future to fix.
    Hopefully bike holds up. The welds look like they most likely were just gone over with a TIG and fused, with minimal Filler rod.

    Lots of "slag" up inside Fork tube. If running brake cable through the fork you will want to make sure to clean up inside as there was lots of extremely sharp slag inside from the fork legs being welded to center steerer tube and i don't think they deburred the legs after notching them prior to welding to steerer tube.

    I have also covered up 90% of the graphics as they are just cheesy writing/cursive (e.g. "Ride your butt off", "Bicicleta", "Folly State of Mind"). Call me weird, but very lame to me.

    I'm glad that i used a 20% coupon for the bike purchase, so it was only $560 shipped.
    I would have been more pist if i had paid full price.
    I can post of pics. i took pic of the Rear IS mount before modifying it. don't think i took pic of the front mount. I'm not one to take pictures or overly contemplate things. I literally had the bike apart and was grinding on it within 30 mins of realizing how badly the IS mounts were angled/warped.
    New member, so i can't seem to attach images easily.

    If you are planning to upgrade to Cassette, i'd avoid the Megalith and get something else (Bikesdirect Lurch? Framed? Charge Cooker?)
    Also if you upgrade, don't forget to get Chainring, as the single speed setup uses thicker chain. Cassette chain will not fit on the front chainring.

    Based on my experience, I would only recommend this bike if you can get it for sub $600, and plan to keep it Single Speed, and with the stock 180mm discs. You may get a bike with no issues, but based on my bike i'd say their quality control is certainly not the most stringent. Or possibly i was sent a "2nd" because of using the 20% coupon, which they removed that day (12/28), and changed to $100 off coupon for a day or so. Then i noticed no coupons/discount offered at all in early january.

    of course with all my modifying, and also the somewhat "non recognizable" STATE Bicycles name in the biking community, i most likely will never be able to resell this bike to anyone.

  13. #13
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    Your experience is fairly similar to mine, greenbastard. In the end, the fork and wheels are the only thing left on my bike that came with it. I also used the 20% coupon over the holidays and I too would be pissed if I paid full price. I ended up keeping it single speed but none of the original drive train remains. I had a pair of 170mm Race Face Turbine Cinch cranks lying around so I bought a 170 spindle (and 100 mm Cinch BB) to convert them for fat bike use. That brought the chain ring inboard to provide a much better line. I also ended up going with a Surly cog, spacer kit and 9-speed chain since the original setup was all around 1/8" SS. The spacer kit they provide has very little customization options since it's all just a few big spacers. I ended up replacing the heavy bars, seatpost and long stem with FSA stuff (carbon bar and post).

    Oh, and replace the headset ASAP with a 44mm ID headset. I went FSA here as well since they are readily available on eBay for cheap. The included headset is absolute wobbly junk and will break down on you soon (all exposed bearings).

    I've spent way too much time trying unsuccessfully to set up the wheels as tubeless. I've used fatty stripper's kit, various foam tape + strapping tape combinations, etc. and just gave up. I'd love better wheels but the stock 100mm with tubes is the least offensive part of the build kit and I don't want to put any more money into this bike that I may not be able to transfer out.

    As a side note, I've been considering getting one of these and maybe some new Mulefuts for it: https://jet.com/product/Framed-Alask...06e0ff1769f698. Then I could just move all the upgrades I went through over to this. Only problem then is I'll have to admit that I completely wasted my money on the State bike as nothing of it would remain.

  14. #14
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    One last thing: State Bicycle's service is almost non-existant and without providing them proof of professional assembly, it really is non-existant. Your warranty is completely voided by putting this bike together yourself.

    Stay away from this brand.

  15. #15
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    I think the CTS tires the bike comes with might work tubeless. as they are SUPER tight to the bead/rim.
    The VEE mission tires i could not get to work tubeless. they would not hold bead, even leaving innertubes inflated overnight in tire to try and seat bead well.

    Thanks for tip on headset. i'll address that.

    i like the frame geometry. So the frame maybe the only thing left on the bike in the near future. As for it's build quality I already talked about that in first post.

  16. #16
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    Yeah, I didn't think about trying the CST BFT's. Thanks for the suggestion and you're right, they were super tight on there. I ended up throwing some H-Billie's on there. I think I've spent enough time on the tubeless attempt though (and bought enough spare tubes) that I'll just resign to tubed riding here.

  17. #17
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    While I'm into bikes up to my eyes, I'm still building my project car. I agree that they're a money pit but I've been sitting on this project a long time and I wouldn't be able to live with myself if I don't see it through.
    Besides, my eleven year old wants to help.
    I like turtles

  18. #18
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    Just wanted to add one last thing:

    Overall, for $560, I do think it's not an absolutely terrible deal as long as you know you're getting a frame, fork and wheels. The frame and fork are actually pretty cool and being 4130, noticeably light (I didn't weight it...just picked it up during my disassembly and upgrade period).

    But if you want to buy a ready-to-go fat bike and have it warrantied. This is not the fat bike you're looking for.

  19. #19
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    Off topic so I apologize.

    I understand the appeal of a SS bike but a SS fat bike not so much. going from road, to single track, to sand, to snow or whatever I don't think I could find gearing that would be a good compromise.

    What are you using a SS fat bike for?
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by lmcfarlin View Post
    Oh, and replace the headset ASAP with a 44mm ID headset. I went FSA here as well since they are readily available on eBay for cheap. The included headset is absolute wobbly junk and will break down on you soon (all exposed bearings).
    Wait. It's a 44mm head tube?

    I assumed it was the old standard:straight EC34 1 1/8" threadless headtube?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    No worries, Jeff_G. I get this question a lot so here's my answer:

    I geared the bike very low, as far as SS goes. I went with a RF Turbine crankset with a 26T ring. The rear is now a Surly 21T cog. That's about as low as one can go, for the most part, where SS is concerned (22T cog is possibly but will exclude most tensioners).

    So I found when riding fat tires in snow, that I never use the top half of my gearing range. I foresee a market possibility here of something like a reverse-DH drive-train where it's all low gears (maybe something like 20-42). Fresh snow just doubles the difficulty of any climb and doing it on a heavy fat bike with monster tires just adds to that.

    So that said, I figured...if I don't use all these gears, why bother with them? For the most part, this has worked out pretty well. The stock 32T / 20T was just not Colorado-riding-friendly, IMO. Cruising on beach-sand, maybe. I also definitely just spin out on downhills but there, I don't find myself wanting to accelerate more on ice and snow on my fully-rigid bike.

    I also like the idea of having a super-simple and primitive bike where just about anything can be repaired trail-side with small tools and maybe a few extra chain links from a pack.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Wait. It's a 44mm head tube?

    I assumed it was the old standard:straight EC34 1 1/8" threadless headtube?
    It's 44mm ID, 50mm OD, straight. I replaced it with one of these and it was a fit. FSA Orbit Z 1 1 8" 44mm Threadless 1 1 8" Headset w Top Cap 8 Colors | eBay

  23. #23
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    Well i probably spend too much money when i bought car stuff.
    Was building NASA GTS2 E36 bmw. I had cage about 90% finished. I bought some MCS Suspension 2 way Remote reservoir suspension (about $6000 complete with Camber plates, roller bearings 'spring bind', remote resorvoirs)

    I cut out the rear shock towers and welded in some large DOM tubing (5" i think).
    triangulated all into cage, so i could run true coilover instead of the Divorced rear damper/spring setup on E36 bmws.
    i like to tinker and **** with things. don't always finish 100% though.... And the chassis was from MA, so it was majorly rusty. should have waited for better chassis. I did so much rust repair on it. welding in new steel in many spots.

    have alot of the build up on Bimmerforums (username: omegaraceshop)

    Didn't get to work on it too much to finish. was finishing up a 2nd masters degree at the time.

  24. #24
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    Makes sense.

    My BIL has a Surly Rat Ride that has two front chain rings. H/L. Move the chain to the other ring and adjust tension.

    Two speeds would maybe make me more open to such a bike I think.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

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    Whoah that's insane.
    Thanks for letting us know about your experience, and kudos to your awesome manipulation skills. Would love to see photos.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Makes sense.

    My BIL has a Surly Rat Ride that has two front chain rings. H/L. Move the chain to the other ring and adjust tension.

    Two speeds would maybe make me more open to such a bike I think.
    Yeah, I do have a 17T cog I keep around also in case I decide I want to switch to it for a ride. Obviously, much slower of a gear change in this case.

    Edit: Oh, and a 32T RF NW ring. Cinch is pretty easy (in the name, after all) to swap out rings.

  27. #27
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    lmcfarlin, throwing in the towel on the State?

    Looks like State has removed the Megalith from their website as recent as today
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    lmcfarlin, throwing in the towel on the State?

    Looks like State has removed the Megalith from their website as recent as today
    Interesting. I'm considering the idea of throwing in the towel but wouldn't be heartbroken either way. I assume maybe you saw my for sale post in Colorado? As I mentioned here previously, I've also been toying with the idea of starting with a new frame-only (Framed Alaskan but I've been thinking Beargrease too) and building from there. Another thing that has cross my mind is: Do I really need a fat bike at all? I rode this past weekend at 3 Sisters with a large group and I was the only rider with a fattie. Nobody else seemed to suffering with their skinny tires.

    So that leaves me at:

    1. Just stick to the program. Ride my singlespeed fatty through the Winter and use it as a way to stay in shape (and probably get in better shape) for Summer riding.

    2. Admit that I'm a complete bike snob and start piecing together a fancy schmancy bike for a lot more money.

    3. Admit that as interesting a concept as fat bikes are, they really aren't a necessity to ride in snow. Maybe just buy some Maxxis Shorty's and call it good.

    So I put my bike up to see what bites but I'm having a hard time committing to a direction here.

  29. #29
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    It looks like they are also now sold out on their Monolith. But yeah, Megalith is just not listed anymore.

    In truth, I thought the stock kit was so bad that they really shouldn't even sell it. They wanted to do a cheap SS conversion but it didn't work. The idea of SS conversions with cheapo parts sounds doable on paper but is a huge headache in reality. That's why I ended up ditching the whole setup and replacing the entire drive-train with Race Face and Surly stuff.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by lmcfarlin View Post
    Interesting. I'm considering the idea of throwing in the towel but wouldn't be heartbroken either way. I assume maybe you saw my for sale post in Colorado?
    Yep. Thought to myself, "I think I just read about that bike"

    4130 is the only thing that had me interested in this bike. Knowing it's a 44mm head tube is also interesting.

    Quote Originally Posted by lmcfarlin View Post
    Another thing that has cross my mind is: Do I really need a fat bike at all? I rode this past weekend at 3 Sisters with a large group and I was the only rider with a fattie. Nobody else seemed to suffering with their skinny tires.

    So that leaves me at:

    1. Just stick to the program. Ride my singlespeed fatty through the Winter and use it as a way to stay in shape (and probably get in better shape) for Summer riding.

    2. Admit that I'm a complete bike snob and start piecing together a fancy schmancy bike for a lot more money.

    3. Admit that as interesting a concept as fat bikes are, they really aren't a necessity to ride in snow. Maybe just buy some Maxxis Shorty's and call it good.

    So I put my bike up to see what bites but I'm having a hard time committing to a direction here.
    Right there with you!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  31. #31
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    Installed :
    Cane Creek 40-Series Zerostack Short Cover Complete for 44mm Head-Tube (1-1/8-Inch Straight Steerer), Black

    Waiting for Howitzer 100mm bb, and Truvativ Holzfeller 1.1 Mountain Crankset 36t 175mm Black

    Very happy with CC headset. Stock headset, BB, cranks are pretty much garbage for anything other than street cruising

    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-canecreekmegalith.jpg

  32. #32
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    Some more pics in my electronics man cave.

    26" kick drum for size reference.
    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-sidemegalith.jpg

    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-rearmegalith.jpg

    Highly recommend the HOPE caliper adapters.
    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-megalithforkgrind.jpg

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenbastard View Post
    Very happy with CC headset. Stock headset, BB, cranks are pretty much garbage for anything other than street cruising
    Nice choices! Yeah, you really find out how bad the stock stuff is when you pull things apart. I mean you know the cranks aren't keepers at first sight, but the BB and headset are things some people may not realize are junk until they're walking home from the trail.

  34. #34
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    Can one of y'all verify the chainstay length?

    State's website listed 45cm (17.72") which is actually decently short.

    I think the shortest that I've currently seen is the Surly Wednesday, which goes as low as 43.5 cm.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Can one of y'all verify the chainstay length?

    State's website listed 45cm (17.72") which is actually decently short.

    I think the shortest that I've currently seen is the Surly Wednesday, which goes as low as 43.5 cm.
    Just measured it and that sounds pretty exact.

    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-img_1307.jpg

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    I filled out bad review also on STATE website, and it never was published.

    Just looked today (1:30pm 1/18/2016). State removed the MEGALITH from their website, and only shows the monolith

    Installed Howitzer BB and Holzfeller 175m cranks. used the included Drive side spacer with the BB (2.5mm i think?)
    Does the chainline look acceptable? pretty close to tire in Lowest gear.

    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-holzfeller2.jpg


    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-holzfeller.jpg
    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-lowgear.jpg
    State Bicycle Co. Megalith Fat Bike-highgear.jpg

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenbastard View Post
    Does the chainline look acceptable? pretty close to tire in Lowest gear.
    It looks fine to me but I am surprised that it is that close with a 4.0 tire on.

    I ended up going with a set of MuleFut's since I just really wanted to run tubeless. Also threw some Vanhelgas on there. Currently weighing in at 31.6 lbs which I think is pretty good. This is, of course, with my single-speed setup so no cassette or derailleur (no tensioner either).

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    I'll have to try and get weight on the bike (x7 der, holzfeller cranks, hydraulic brakes, 'DJ' style bars/stem, and some more pics.
    i put on a Blackspire Stinger chain tensioner. Works well and very easy install.
    only got to put about a Mile on the bike last week in start of snowstorm here in Northern Virginia.
    in about 6" of snow, and about 8psi (tube) the bike just would not slip the rear wheel with my fat ass on it. and had a fun climb up my neighborhood road in the snow on 36t cog.
    11-36t Sram cassette, 32 tooth Wolf Elliptical Sprocket.
    interested to see how rear hub holds up. If there are issues then i'm gonna most likely go directly to an Onyx rear hub

  39. #39
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    Anyone try a 29x3 set up? Looks like plenty of room in the fork, curious about the frame, specifically chainstay and seatstay bridges.
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by lmcfarlin View Post
    Just measured it and that sounds pretty exact.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks like you're running without the tensioner there. Whats the magic ratio?
    On heavy rotation: Stooge 27.5+ SS, On-One Fatty, On-One 456 EVO, Surly Cross-Check, Scott CR1 (SS road)

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBLoCo29 View Post
    Looks like you're running without the tensioner there. Whats the magic ratio?
    Sorry for not catching this sooner. I have a 26T narrow-wide ring up front and a 21T surly cog out back. The rear dropouts are slightly angled forward. It's enough to make it easy to get the chain off by pulling the rear wheel forward along the dropouts.

  42. #42
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    Getting one of these frames and just want to subscribe...

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    So I picked one of these up on the $399 (with free shipping) holiday special. I have to say this is the lowest quality bike I've ever ridden. I purchased a new bike today because I didn't think it would be worth the hassle or money of trying to fix it.

    The major issue for me is the brake will just not line up. I bent the post mount on the fork into place and that helped. The mounts likely need to be faced. However, because it is an axle and nut wheel, the wheel squeezes the fork and the rear triangle together when tightened. The hubs feel draggy as well. I had to put a ton of fiber grip and tightened the hell out of the seatpost clamp to keep it from slipping. The tires it came with were so tight on the rim, I had to cut them off with side cutting pliers. Maybe mine was worse than others and this is just my experience, but I would recommend someone spend a bit more money and buy something nicer.
    Last edited by detroitguy1; 01-01-2018 at 09:24 PM.

  44. #44
    mtbr member
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    Dec 2017
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    30
    They sent me a ful megalith bike and didn't pack it properly, no rear tire between chainstays and it was resting on the rear derailleur hanger that is a part of the frame. so take a wild guess how straight my frame was. They ran me in circles until I gave up on getting a replacement frame, I "rode" it for a winter. I had to dial in my tire pressure so that it wouldn't rub, not dial it in to what was useful for the weather. When I bought this bike I had all the supplies ordered to make it 1x11. It was bent so badly I was able to use 8 out of the 11 gears. Ended up being a huge waste of time and money and I will never do business with them again.
    Another guy, without knowing my story, told me he toured their facility in Arizona and said he was not impressed with their "bro"-like attitude.

    If anyone is reading this, thinking about buying a bike from them, spend $500 more and actually get a functional bike or look up places like Framed bikes who gives you an amazing (slightly heavier) bike for the same price.

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