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  1. #1
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    Stans changed? Problems?

    Wanted to start a new thread from the leaky maxxis thread because I am having problems getting my Bud and Lou to hold air overnight. I decided to redo the tape from last year(that may have been my biggest mistake). I did one with tyvek tape and it wouldn't hold air over night with stans. After a week of messing with it, I started over with clear gorilla tape, 2 passes to each inside edge with a 3rd over the middle (used this method on one last year and it worked well). Small leaks and it won't stay up over night. Did this on my rear wheel as well and it will not seal. Only small air leaks. I use two pieces of inner tube rubber on the valve stem and rims are DT.

    Could it be the stans? Anyone else having similar experiences? I just purchased a new quart. It still could be my technique, but I had excellent results last year with no problems and lots of snow riding.

    urmb
    “Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of riding a \mountain or fat/ bike.” ~ John F. Kennedy

  2. #2
    turtles make me hot
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    I've got no experience with the DT fat rims but I was having Stans seep through the sidewalls of my Lou and Knard. I switched to Truckerco Tire Cream and had no more problems.
    A friend with a bike shop told me he has difficulty with the DT rims. Like I said, I haven't tried em yet.
    I also like Truckerco's valve stems WAY better than Stan's.
    I like turtles

  3. #3
    because GIANT
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    I am a tell ya,


    use fatty strippers and orange seal

    put ALL tubeless fat tire issues directly in the history buffer

    if not fatty strippers, then use a split tube.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    I am a tell ya,


    use fatty strippers and orange seal

    put ALL tubeless fat tire issues directly in the history buffer

    if not fatty strippers, then use a split tube.
    The problem I had with two bikes with fatty strippers is the latex leaks. I had to inflate the tires every few days. One bike I changed to Sunringle tape and I don't add air for weeks at a time.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

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    and I'm OK admitting..
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I switched to Truckerco Tire Cream and had no more problems.
    I had several tires with sealant seeping through the sidewalls. Tried Orange Seal in a couple and TruckerCo in the rest, no more issues with any of the tires.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  6. #6
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    I have had good luck with Zip flashing tape. It's plenty wide to avoid seams. Where tape is troublesome, split tube is a good way to go.

    Did you clean your tire beads and the rim shelf good before reinstalling?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by urmb View Post
    Wanted to start a new thread from the leaky maxxis thread because I am having problems getting my Bud and Lou to hold air overnight. I decided to redo the tape from last year(that may have been my biggest mistake). I did one with tyvek tape and it wouldn't hold air over night with stans. After a week of messing with it, I started over with clear gorilla tape, 2 passes to each inside edge with a 3rd over the middle (used this method on one last year and it worked well). Small leaks and it won't stay up over night. Did this on my rear wheel as well and it will not seal. Only small air leaks. I use two pieces of inner tube rubber on the valve stem and rims are DT.

    Could it be the stans? Anyone else having similar experiences? I just purchased a new quart. It still could be my technique, but I had excellent results last year with no problems and lots of snow riding.

    urmb
    Where exactly is it leaking? Is it the tape, bead, valves, or tire casing?

    If you don't know submerge the tire in water (I use my bathtub) and look for the tiny air bubbles.

  8. #8
    because GIANT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    The problem I had with two bikes with fatty strippers is the latex leaks. I had to inflate the tires every few days. One bike I changed to Sunringle tape and I don't add air for weeks at a time.
    how does it leak ? I have (6 stripper rotations so far ) summer and winter, using fatty strippers, and they come off like a tubular tire and actually can be pumped back up as the whole shebang is one solid (floppy) airtight unit. it annoying actually I have to tear it apart.

    can add 15 psi to the tires for summer riding and they take over a month to bleed down where I need to add more air. for snow and they are like 6 psi I run them all winter and they don't need to be tended to as though they were leaky....using the stems fatty stripper sent me too

    slosh in 6oz o-seal front and back, maybe because I use a ton of sealant ?
    4oz is recommended but I buy big jugs so don't mind using it

    orange seal, mulefut, hodags or dillingers, latex doesn't leak or degrade for me. it fuses to the tire though

    I guess every setup... be it brake bleeding or tubeless tires is...'it depends'
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobShort View Post
    Where exactly is it leaking? Is it the tape, bead, valves, or tire casing?

    If you don't know submerge the tire in water (I use my bathtub) and look for the tiny air bubbles.

    This ^. No point in chasing different tapes and such until you know the source of the leakage.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all of the replies. Small leaks at the cut outs and with very slight seepage on some of the cord lines on the sidewalls, so leaking through the tape somewhere is my guess. The tires hold air for several hours but are flat the next day. Also, I cleaned the rims and tires meticulously and wiped with IPA before re-taping. In my experience, leaks like this, small and slow, easily seal with Stans.

    The tire with the silver duct tape has leaked the most; I doubled the amount of Stans in it. The tire with the lighter duct tape (glow in the dark ) still has enough stans to form a small pool. I put 4 oz in initially. I pumped them up again and swirled, flipped, bounced, rotated, etc. etc... Some Stans bubbled but it stopped. The bubbles along the rim edge in one of the pictures are from soapy water used to reseat the bead. The bubbles on the rim are from the the Stans.

    Stans changed?  Problems?-img_20171207_202657095%5B1%5D.jpgStans changed?  Problems?-img_20171207_182640959%5B1%5D.jpg

    Giving them one more night.

    urmb
    “Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of riding a \mountain or fat/ bike.” ~ John F. Kennedy

  11. #11
    turtles make me hot
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    You shouldn't be getting leakage at the spokes at all. Is your rim strip worn through at the nipple?
    I like turtles

  12. #12
    wanna ride bikes?
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    I like sunringle rim tape, or any tubeless tape better than multiple layers of other tape. If your rims are 80mm wide, get 80mm tape.

    1. Did you clean all the old Stans off the beads of the tire before attempting to remount? Old buildup of sealant around the beads will prevent the tire from properly sealing when attempting to remount.

    2. I agree you need to figure out where the setup is leaking. Otherwise your just guessing and wasting time and money.

    3. Did you ride the bike after reinstalling or just shake and bounce? I find going for a ride is a better way to get the sealant all over the inside of the tire. Just remember to bring a small pump with you incase you need to add a little air while the sealant does it's job.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  13. #13
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    I have DT BIg Ride rims and went with split tube years ago. It’s fool proof and keeps the tire snug on the rim.


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  14. #14
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    I had trouble with that rim until I went Fatty Stripper. Held for two days with no sealant. Once I added some Stans it's been holding for weeks at a time.

  15. #15
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    Follow-up: I took the Bud off my still leaking tire and found three places where the tape overlap had failed. In case you haven't read all posts, I used the same system last winter with no leaks and 100s of snow miles. One thought is that I may have over pressured the tire when I popped the beads into place which separated some of the tape overlaps. Stans fluid was pushed several inches into a couple of the overlap failures. Not wanting to tear it all off yet again and start over. I removed (cut) all of the failed sections and carefully cleaned and replaced with lots of overlap in each section. Added an extra wrap around the middle to double cover. I was very careful not to put any more air into it then necessary to pop the beads in. So far it has worked. Road the fatty this morning...on dirt bcuz we have no snow... Will be using wide tape form now on.

    urmb
    “Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of riding a \mountain or fat/ bike.” ~ John F. Kennedy

  16. #16
    turtles make me hot
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    I finally got to mess with a DT rim. A friend called and said he had to put a tube in it because he couldn't get it to seal up.
    I went over there with my bag of tricks and ended up split tubing it with a 24" Q Tube.
    Worked fine.
    WHY did DT Swiss make a rim that wasn't straight up tubeless? They came into the game late enough. Surly's MOBD wins.
    I like turtles

  17. #17
    wjh
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I finally got to mess with a DT rim. A friend called and said he had to put a tube in it because he couldn't get it to seal up.
    I went over there with my bag of tricks and ended up split tubing it with a 24" Q Tube.
    Worked fine.
    WHY did DT Swiss make a rim that wasn't straight up tubeless? They came into the game late enough. Surly's MOBD wins.
    i have no trouble getting DT rims to seal up. One pass of wide tape and Vanhelga sealed up after a short ride. Front starting to slowly leak after a few months but i suspect i need a little fluid.
    Switching to Wrathchilds in a few weeks. Hope they are trouble free also.
    Its strange how people have such different experiences with tubeless attempts

  18. #18
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    delete
    Last edited by ak-rider; 1 Week Ago at 09:39 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak-rider View Post
    I’m skeptical of the tubeless tire setup not blowin a bead at low pressure at cold temps leaving you with a mess.
    If your talking about a tubeless tire on a tubeless rim you shouldn't be worried. I've been down as low as 1.5 lbs and weigh 205 lbs without gear.

    No system is perfect, especially tubes, but I'll gladly take the tradeoffs of tubeless. On everything I own.
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak-rider View Post
    I’m getting the feeling that many people, after spending a lot of effort to get a working tubeless set up are inclined to believe it was way better than what they had.
    It's not 'confirmation bias.' Whether it is for you or not, is something only you can decide. That doesn't mean everyone else is making it up, though.

    I’ll find out this winter and maybe I’ll become a huge believer as the theory behind tubeless reducing resistance sounds pretty good.
    It's actually not a theory.

    ....I'm writing this from the perspective of riding in snow where flats are basically non existant.
    You mean flat terrain? I'm not sure what 'flat' or not has to do with the decision to go tubeless.
    "The only way we can truly control the outcome of a ride is not going on it, which is a choice I'm unwilling to make." -K.B.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by urmb View Post
    Thanks for all of the replies. Small leaks at the cut outs and with very slight seepage on some of the cord lines on the sidewalls, so leaking through the tape somewhere is my guess. The tires hold air for several hours but are flat the next day. Also, I cleaned the rims and tires meticulously and wiped with IPA before re-taping. In my experience, leaks like this, small and slow, easily seal with Stans.

    The tire with the silver duct tape has leaked the most; I doubled the amount of Stans in it. The tire with the lighter duct tape (glow in the dark ) still has enough stans to form a small pool. I put 4 oz in initially. I pumped them up again and swirled, flipped, bounced, rotated, etc. etc... Some Stans bubbled but it stopped. The bubbles along the rim edge in one of the pictures are from soapy water used to reseat the bead. The bubbles on the rim are from the the Stans.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Giving them one more night.

    urmb
    My only question about Stans: Does anyone know what the brown oily stuff is?
    (being a more recent convert, that's what I thought this thread would be about)
    Stans changed?  Problems?-20151103_200442%5B1%5D.jpg

    I see the seepage in the photo, but when my tires seep, it is brown, transparent, oil-like stuff (but it's not oil). On my most recent tire swap, the only thing left in the tire after 9 months of neglect was the brown oily stuff. No Stanimals. No white stuff. Just a very even coating of what must be latex on the entire inside, and a puddle of the brown stuff. And yes, the split tube was very well bonded to the tire bead, like a tubular.


    And despite all the hassle of assembling a reliable tubeless set-up for my old HL80 rims, it is totally worth it to not have to fix a flat when it's dark and 4F outside. Plus, last time I pulled a thorn from my fatty, I needed pliers. That would have been a tough fix with a tube, in the dark, and 4F, since I don't carry pliers. Maybe I coulda gnawed it out.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  22. #22
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    ^ I've seen brown seepage before too, it's either just dirty Stans or it could be stained by the black rubber? Either way nothing to worry about unless it's weeping enough that you constantly have to add more Stans.
    Rigid SS 29er
    Fat Lefty
    SS MonsterCross
    SS cyclocross
    all steel

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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