Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 36
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130

    Sram XX1 1 x 11 drive train. What rear hub?

    The Sram 11-speed cassette has certain requirements and I wonder if I can find a hub to build a rear wheel? The JensonUSA web page lists the following requiremnts:and also offers a DT Swiss freehub for the XX1 cassette.
    The XX1 cassette is the first of its kind. The 11 speed cassette is a single unit cassette combined with an XD driver body. The XD is a new cassette driver body design that allows the use of a 10 tooth small cog and provides an improved interface with the cassette.
    and
    Wheels equipped for XD driver body are available from SRAM and DT Swiss
    So is there a rear hub that I can use to build a Marge Lite or Rolling Darryl wheelset?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Let's see If I can post links yet.
    Hope is making a XD driver body for their Pro2 Evo and Pro 3 models.
    Nope. Still need two more posts before I can post links. The quote comes from the vitalmtb website.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,315
    Do an advanced search on xx1, limited to the Fatbike forum. You should find as up to date an answer as there is to this question.
    Latitude 61

  4. #4
    Fatback
    Reputation: thirstywork's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    699
    We should have a 1 X 11 free hub for the US made Fatback hubs in December. It will fit on existing US hubs.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    65
    stans no tubes has one

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Do an advanced search on xx1, limited to the Fatbike forum. You should find as up to date an answer as there is to this question.
    Great tip. In fact, thank all of you for the answers.

    The Hope Pro2 Evo is around $230 on ebay. Would this be the best/most expensive of my choices?

    I didn't even know Stan's made hubs. Is there only Stans's MTB hub or one that's best for a fatbike build?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    392
    ChainReaction Cycle and a couple other British joints have the Hope Pro2 Evo for ~$180.

    CRC also has the Stans hub for $170
    NoTubes 3.30 Disc Hub Rear QR 2012 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Further information.

    I'm using an FSA Gossamer compact crankset with the 30t ring mounted where the big ring would nornally go. That all goes on a 100mm x 148mm bottom bracket. That's the deal. I'm trying to save money by using the parts I already have.

    I saw a cool chain guide/bash guard for 1x11 drive trains but I don't know if that will be necessary. I don't race and this bike's primary purpose will be transport around NH in Winter. Snowy roads and iced-over ponds, not mountain single track.

    But I'd like to have the chain clear the tire. Husker Du probably. And then next Winter maybe some studded tires. Yes I know the Sram XX1 chain ring is unique and the XX1 chain might be as well. But I think the narrow KMC gold chains I already have (works fine on Campy 11) will work.

    Anyone want to offer an opinion on the best rear hub for this setup?

  9. #9
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,145
    Quote Originally Posted by FrY10cK View Post
    Further information.

    I'm using an FSA Gossamer compact crankset with the 30t ring mounted where the big ring would nornally go. That all goes on a 100mm x 148mm bottom bracket. That's the deal. I'm trying to save money by using the parts I already have.

    I saw a cool chain guide/bash guard for 1x11 drive trains but I don't know if that will be necessary. I don't race and this bike's primary purpose will be transport around NH in Winter. Snowy roads and iced-over ponds, not mountain single track.

    But I'd like to have the chain clear the tire. Husker Du probably. And then next Winter maybe some studded tires. Yes I know the Sram XX1 chain ring is unique and the XX1 chain might be as well. But I think the narrow KMC gold chains I already have (works fine on Campy 11) will work.

    Anyone want to offer an opinion on the best rear hub for this setup?
    You have not said if you need a 135mm or 170mm hub.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,315
    If you are running the chainring on the big ring position you should have no trouble clearing the tire but your chainline in low gear will not be at all good.
    Latitude 61

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    You have not said if you need a 135mm or 170mm hub.
    Salsa Beargrease frameset is the plan although availability may be a problem there. So I'll have to go back and check the specs for that frame. But generally speaking, should I be looking at hubs from SRAM, DT Swiss, or Hope?

    And does it have to be a SRAM XO hub? All I found so far have been SRAM X9 rear hubs. Yeah I know, damn newbs. Haven't done their homework. I doing it. I'm doing it. But this is all new to me.

    Can I get away with a 28 hole hub? I only weight 160 lbs. and I'm not racing or trials riding or anything like that. This is for winter transport on snowy roads and iced over ponds.

    Something likle this? SRAM X.9 6-Bolt Disc Rear 28H Black w/ QR Skewer - Mike's Bikes - Road and Mountain Bike Shop, components, parts, accessories, service and repair

  12. #12
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,145
    Quote Originally Posted by FrY10cK View Post
    Salsa Beargrease frameset is the plan although availability may be a problem there. So I'll have to go back and check the specs for that frame. But generally speaking, should I be looking at hubs from SRAM, DT Swiss, or Hope?

    And does it have to be a SRAM XO hub? All I found so far have been SRAM X9 rear hubs. Yeah I know, damn newbs. Haven't done their homework. I doing it. I'm doing it. But this is all new to me.

    Can I get away with a 28 hole hub? I only weight 160 lbs. and I'm not racing or trials riding or anything like that. This is for winter transport on snowy roads and iced over ponds.

    Something likle this? SRAM X.9 6-Bolt Disc Rear 28H Black w/ QR Skewer - Mike's Bikes - Road and Mountain Bike Shop, components, parts, accessories, service and repair
    The Salsa frames use a 170mm hub. The Fatback/Speedway hub mentioned earlier or Hope may be your best/only options.

    135mm hubs like the SRAM are out. No 28 hole fat rims either.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,315
    FrY10cK, I hate to sound like a jerk but as a self proclaimed newbie you should be getting a complete bike for your first foray into fat bike land. There is just so much you don't know that could make a part by part build up very painful. Not the least of which is unless you have a bunch of parts already it will be a fair bit cheaper.
    As to your hub of choice, and most of the others you mention, it is a 135mm hub the Beargrease takes a 170. The normal Mukluk has an adapter that allows use of a 135 hub but that is adding complexity and it may or may not work on the Beargrease.
    Your plan for a 1 X 11 with the chainring on the outer position will, as I stated earlier, result in very bad chainline when you are in low gear.
    You can get away with a 28 hole hub except no fatbike rims come with that drilling. You can drill your own if you know what you are doing but it is a potential problem.
    Sorry to be so negative but it looks like you are heading for a big headache. Steve

    Edit, Looks like Shiggy beat me to the reply.
    Latitude 61

  14. #14
    Self Inflicted
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    63
    Kind of off topic but....

    Does anyone else think its nuts that anyone would want to use a 1 x 11 drivetrain for riding "winter roads". My experience is that riding roads in the winter will eat up drive trains faster than anything. So why use expensive stuff? I'd use cheap 9 speed (or maybe even 8 or 7 speed) components so that they are cheap to replace.

  15. #15
    Nuts
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    4,849
    Quote Originally Posted by sagealmighty View Post
    Kind of off topic but....

    Does anyone else think its nuts that anyone would want to use a 1 x 11 drivetrain for riding "winter roads". My experience is that riding roads in the winter will eat up drive trains faster than anything. So why use expensive stuff? I'd use cheap 9 speed (or maybe even 8 or 7 speed) components so that they are cheap to replace.
    This is assuming everyone rides their fat bike on the road.
    And I love beer!!

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    We should have a 1 X 11 free hub for the US made Fatback hubs in December. It will fit on existing US hubs.
    So if I was to buy this frrame (a definite option right now) Aluminum Bikes what hub would you recommend for the SRAM XD setup?

    Dang! I just checked your website. I could buy a set of $300 hubs but not the $600 set. Just to be clear, that is both front and rear right?

    Could you set me up with the spokes, nipples, rims, etc. I can only just barely afford the hardware. I can't afford the labor. I'll pay the cost in time and mistakes.

    But you know what? when It's all done, I might be nearly as smart as some of you tech-heads here.
    Last edited by FrY10cK; 10-24-2012 at 08:20 PM.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    FrY10cK, I hate to sound like a jerk but as a self proclaimed newbie you should be getting a complete bike.
    That aint't gonna happen. But your advice about no fat rims being drilled for 28 spokes is well taken. I buy a few parts each month as I can afford them and If I make a mistake, well check ebay, you might find some good deals from seller 337kimball.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,315
    Quote Originally Posted by FrY10cK View Post
    That aint't gonna happen. But your advice about no fat rims being drilled for 28 spokes is well taken. I buy a few parts each month as I can afford them and If I make a mistake, well check ebay, you might find some good deals from seller 337kimball.
    Last try and then I promise I'll leave you alone: I built up a bike from parts for my son last year. I spent $1100.00. I bought a Mukluk frameset for $480, which included the fork. So that is almost $300 cheaper than the Fatback you are looking at which doesn't come with a fork. Fatbacks are great bikes by the way I'd say get one if you can afford it but you imply you are doing it this way because you don't have enough money to plunk it down all at once on a complete bike. So if you add in that $300 and another $100 for a fork you are at $1500 which is almost enough for an ON One complete and you still have to buy the parts I had on hand which were: hubs, rotors, tires, tubes, skewers, stem, grips, shifters, front and rear deraillers, cassette, pedals, seat, seatpost, cables, and chain. Put the money you were going to put into parts into a bike fund as you can afford it and you will have enough for a complete bike and be riding it long before you would the way you are going or save a little longer and get a Fatback complete.
    Anyway good luck however you proceed build it yourself can be fun it's just not cheap.
    Latitude 61

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    130

    Chain line issue

    If the rear cassette comes apart, pull the smallest cog off and space it from behind, pushing it away from the tire and back in line with the chain. My LBS took the two smallest cogs off and it significantly improved the chain line. That was on a Mukluk 2, which is known for spacing issues. For a 1x10 it would really let you fine tune your riding style.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Anyway good luck however you proceed build it yourself can be fun it's just not cheap.
    Fun is part of the equation but education is the keyword here. I'm learning to be my own mechanic and no education comes free of charge.
    Last edited by FrY10cK; 10-25-2012 at 06:22 PM.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Quote Originally Posted by RickyB View Post
    If the rear cassette comes apart, pull the smallest cog off and space it from behind, pushing it away from the tire and back in line with the chain..
    I've been thinking about something like this and adding a 39t big cog from these guys who sell individual cogs and cog sets made of Ti: Action Tec Home Page

    But that's not gonna be as slick as 11 speeds with a 42t big cog.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: druidh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    670
    I thought the XX1 was a single piece unit and so couldn't be split/pushed out?

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DavidJohn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    223
    I had a good look at it last week and took these pics.

    I've put it in the too hard basket... for now.

    DJ







  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    130
    Decision made. Tentatively. Paul Whub 135mm front, Hope Pro2 EVo 170mm rear, Rolling Darryls with Husker Du's mounted tubeless (I read on the internet that it works so it must be true). DT Swiss Competition spokes because that's what Salsa uses, unless somebody has a better suggestion.

    The interesting question is whether my 30t chainring on an FSA Gossamer compact crankset (100mm by 148mm bottom bracket) will allow my KMC 10s gold chain (works on Campy 11 so it should work here) to clear the tire if mounted on the inside. If I mount the chainring on the outside (1 x 11 drive train remember), will the chain line be totally out of whack in low gear? There is only one way to find out.

    I may be able to swing the Beargrease frameset (depending on availability) in Nov or Dec. I won't have all the parts until May or June. Sorry to keep y'all in suspense. Thank you kindly for the info and I'll report back when there's something worth reporting.

    I'd be really stoked if the 30t chainring by 42t cog really works. Then there's still the question of whether the KMC chain will wrap correctly around the tiny 10t Sram XX1 cog. And will I need to add links for the giant 42t cog?

    One thing is certain. I will learn a lot.
    Last edited by FrY10cK; 10-25-2012 at 06:18 PM.

  25. #25
    Nuts
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    4,849
    Jeff Jones also sells a very nice front hub as well. Just a tad lighter, very very smooth with a great finish but a few more coins than the whub.
    And I love beer!!

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •