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  1. #401
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    I have been riding an IBIS Mojo since 2007 as my go to MTB bike. This August I got a Fatboy. I had to replace some parts on the IBIS this fall, so I started to ride the FatBoy. I always thought it was fun, but I really missed the feeling of FS.

    After riddindin the bikes back to back on the same trails, I'm thinking the Fatboy is the much more capable bike in this terrain. I just had to get my self in a hard tail frame of mind.

    BUT
    I find I get FAR more pedal strikes on the Fatboy!!! Even though it's fully sprung, the IBIS BB etc just feels nicely tucked away. Any thoughts? Is it my riding style?

    RIDING CONTEXT
    This winter I have been riding a trail that is very rocky and rooty. It's Canadian Shield type riding with not a lot of "climbs", but tons of large irregular rocks, on top of a rock base that goes to the Earths core. Very technical, very bumpy, 20 feet of "flow" at a time.

  2. #402
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    I want to upgrade my Fatboy to XT brakes. The stock front fork has a 180 mm rotor. Do I need to buy an adapter (spacer) that moves the standard caliper (for 160mm rotor) outboard to accommodate the larger rotor, or are the fork posts longer such that an adapter/spacer is not needed with the standard XT post-mount caliper?

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    I want to upgrade my Fatboy to XT brakes. The stock front fork has a 180 mm rotor. Do I need to buy an adapter (spacer) that moves the standard caliper (for 160mm rotor) outboard to accommodate the larger rotor, or are the fork posts longer such that an adapter/spacer is not needed with the standard XT post-mount caliper?
    You will need a Shimano 180 front adapter to run a 180 rotor.
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  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by majack View Post
    You will need a Shimano 180 front adapter to run a 180 rotor.
    The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.

  5. #405
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    I put Shimano SLX 180 rotors and SLX brakes on my Fatboy. Used the stock front adapter and it works great!
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  6. #406
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    ^This. The stock adapter and rotor will work with your XT brakes. And they're very worth the upgrade. Any Shimano brakes (Deore, SLX, XT) are a very worthwhile upgrade...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  7. #407
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    Just did this upgrade myself and used the stock front adaptor.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by okcorral0 View Post
    The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.
    You are correct Sir, I just misread it. And I did not have my normal pot of coffee in me when I read this I see. Thanks for the correction.
    RICOH for LIFE
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  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by okcorral0 View Post
    The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.
    Thanks. Are the stock rotors ok or should I get Shimano XT rotors as well?

  10. #410
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    Most people speak highly of the shimano ice tech rotors. I don't think you'll do any harm just putting the new brakes on with the old rotors for now and seeing how they work. I'd actually be interested in your results, as I am in the same boat with wanting to replace the squealing pigs, I mean Tektro's, that Specialized put on the FatBoy. I'd have been much happier with Avid BB5s. The one upside of them is that I've been intentionally carrying more speed into and out of corners as I do anything I can to avoid using the brakes. I figured if I bedded them in well they'd be OK, but they are pretty terrible.

  11. #411
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    My video of warble:

    Tektro Gemini cold weather warble: http://youtu.be/lFz-DA3AjOY

    I replaced with m785 and icetechs. So much nicer...

  12. #412
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    The stock rotors stop good, but squeal bad when wet. If you are putting on ice tech brakes, then you should use ice tech rotors. The system works properly when everything is matched. If not, then you can put on regular SLX rotors like I did. They have much less squeal.
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  13. #413
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    If you want new brakes and don't want to spend the coin on the XT's, then the Shimano Deores are very good. I'd have a hard time telling the difference between them and the higher spec SLX and XT brakes.
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  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    The stock rotors stop good, but squeal bad when wet. If you are putting on ice tech brakes, then you should use ice tech rotors. The system works properly when everything is matched. If not, then you can put on regular SLX rotors like I did. They have much less squeal.
    Mine squeeled when dry as can be seen in the video I posted above. It was cold-ish out. Somewhere around 38 F.

  15. #415
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    Get the xt's.. 205mm f and 180mm r

    Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg
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  16. #416
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    Sorry, I did not realize you have Tektro's. Just take them off and throw on some Shimano brakes & rotors. The Deore or SLX are plenty good, reliable, consistent, and easy to setup. If you want more bling, you can go for XT's, but you probably don't need them.

    If I had to choose, I'd opt for a complete SLX system as it is your best bang for the buck.
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  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    Get the xt's.. 205mm f and 180mm r

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can reach those short little stubby levers from your natural hand position on the grips?

    I have SLX brakes sitting in my closet but they never made it onto my Fatboy because of the silly short levers.

    Does the base Deore (non SLX/XT) have longer levers? Or does the Fatboy Expert have this reach issue as well?

  18. #418
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    Not sure if it is the same, but here is the Deore's reach. Works about perfect for 1 or two finger braking...

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  19. #419
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    I have the same except no ends.

  20. #420
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    I had to switch to Trigger shifters with my SLX brakes. I like to hold on to the ends of the bars and I couldnt reach the lever real well without accidentally shifting the bike.
    Shimano does have a long lever model that has levers shaped more like the old Elixir brakes.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  21. #421
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    I recently installed some XT brakes using the rotors that came on the bike and haven't had any issues at all (although I did have to have the hoses cut down)

    I did, however, have to cut down the grips in order to reach the brake lever, as they're so much shorter than the Tektro's that came on it.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post
    I recently installed some XT brakes using the rotors that came on the bike and haven't had any issues at all (although I did have to have the hoses cut down)

    I did, however, have to cut down the grips in order to reach the brake lever, as they're so much shorter than the Tektro's that came on it.
    The stock Expert comes with Deore brakes. How did Spesh deal with those levers, which I assume are the same length as SLX/XT.

  23. #423
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    FB Pro

    Can't wait to take this thing out. Saturday is it's maiden voyage! Recent changes include going tubeless (ghetto), blue Surly rim strips and a few other odds and ends...

    Specialized Fatboy-img_1742.jpg

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  24. #424
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    That's a damn fine lookin steed you got there.

  25. #425
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    Looks killer!

  26. #426
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    I was noticing the front derailleur mount on the fatboys last night. It looks like of ugly, and would be a permanent left over if you ever wanted to convert to a 1x system.

    Any other thoughts on it?

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad_M View Post
    I was noticing the front derailleur mount on the fatboys last night. It looks like of ugly, and would be a permanent left over if you ever wanted to convert to a 1x system.

    Any other thoughts on it?
    Yeah, cut it off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-img_20141220_124748434.jpg  

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  28. #428
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  29. #429
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    I went 1x on day one with my fatboy and to be honest I've never even really noticed it. I've considered adding a top chain guide and using the mount though.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  30. #430
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    You don't need a chain guide on this bike. I have had absolutely zero problems with the 1X setup and I thrash my bike pretty hard. I was a little hesitant to cut off my guide, but one day I had a few beers and said, what the heck. I used a dremel cutting wheel, smoothed it out, and touched it up with black nail polish. I'll tell you, it is a lot cleaner, especially on the snowy days. Also, the Fatboy SL does not have a guide.
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  31. #431
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    I dont have the a Clutch RD on mine and i'm running a 30t wide narrow front ring and I've never dropped a chain, even on rough descent trails.

    I have the green fatboy and it would be tough to color match the paint if I cut off the mount.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  32. #432
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    I can't say for sure, but I would assume you voided your lifetime frame warranty by taking a hacksaw to it.

    Hope you don't have any issues down the road...

  33. #433
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    Don't assume, and fwiw I used to be a frame design engineer. It'll be ok. As I pointed out, the SL has no bracket. The sole purpose of that bracket is to hold a derailleur. It is not adding any significant structure to the bike. I was also very careful to leave a little extra material, just to be safe.

    Let me clarify. If the frame were to break in that specific area, yeah, I would probably have a tough time with the warranty. If the frame were to fail anywhere else, I would still have a valid claim. (I don't want to get into a debate about this, but there is actually legal precedent in this regard.) I weigh 140# and unless I crash onto a rock, I am not gonna break this frame - it is quite stout.
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  34. #434
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    Just got the news that my SL shipped today and will be here late next week.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Don't assume, and fwiw I used to be a frame design engineer. It'll be ok. As I pointed out, the SL has no bracket. The sole purpose of that bracket is to hold a derailleur. It is not adding any significant structure to the bike. I was also very careful to leave a little extra material, just to be safe.

    Let me clarify. If the frame were to break in that specific area, yeah, I would probably have a tough time with the warranty. If the frame were to fail anywhere else, I would still have a valid claim. (I don't want to get into a debate about this, but there is actually legal precedent in this regard.) I weigh 140# and unless I crash onto a rock, I am not gonna break this frame - it is quite stout.
    Guess I just got served.

  36. #436
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    Haha, no no, I can understand why not everyone would want to do this 'mod'. You gotta be a little nuts and fortunately, I am. In my professional opinion it'll be okay. That being said, I didn't design this frame and I have no idea if the tube thicknesses are different on this model vs. the SL (it would be unlikely). If I was really crazy I could model the whoel thing up and run an FEA...or...I could just cut it off and ride the bike and see what happens. (I won't tell you how a lot of real engineering goes...)

    There aren't a ton of stresses between the BB shell and the seat tube in the zone where that mount was welded. It's a pretty low risk mod if you are careful with the dremel. When in doubt, you can just leave a little extra material. That's what I did. I just didn't want the mount sticking out there ad having snow build up.
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  37. #437
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    So many pages in this thread... So like between the Fatboy and Fatboy Expert- main differences are the brakes and crankset, right?

    Worth the $700 difference?
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  38. #438
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    Yes, I mean you get minor bump ups in wheel spokes, bars, & saddle, but if you are going to change all of that anyway and/or you don't care, you get the same great frame, fork, & tires - the core of the bike.
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  39. #439
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    Expert also has better pedals. The Expert's spec will buy you more time before upgrades, but if you are going to swap them out anyway, you might be better off going with the base or maybe even the SE. I've been satisfied with my experts brakes and drivetrain and don't see the need to upgrade. Buy the one that speaks to you and get out and ride 😃

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  40. #440
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    OK, thanks. I usually am loathe to upgrade cranks and brakes but I do mess with the other stuff. Hmm
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  41. #441
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    Sorry, yes the Expert has really nice alloy flat pedals. Even if you don't like them, they are easily sold for $$$
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  42. #442
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    I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.

  43. #443
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    The wheels on all are fine. The weak link is the rear hub which has proven to be problematic for some.
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  44. #444
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.
    +1 I just sold my Gemini on ebay. I fully disclosed the problems I had. Warble etc...

    Other than the warble, they were a decent entry level brake.

  45. #445
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    I got rid of the fd mount also. Looks very clean with e13 28t direct mount guidering:

    Specialized Fatboy-fatboy_fd_mount.jpg

    Studded Bud tires and Reverb borrowed from my fs bike:

    Specialized Fatboy-fatboy_reverb.jpg

  46. #446
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    In case I was not clear, the Gemini hydro brakes worked fine. I just wanted better stopping power and the proven reliability that a more expensive brake offers.

  47. #447
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    This is a fine mod if you're going to keep it for life or pass it on to someone who will only want a 1X. I am going to 1X and leaving the 'ugly protuberance' for flexibility. I can't predict the future, so I am keeping options open.

    Not a critique of your decision, just sharing my perspective before someone gets out their Dremel. Nice job, BTW - it looks really clean.

  48. #448
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    It came out okay. I could make it perfect if I wanted to do more paint work. My perspective, and I am very serious, is that the 1X drivetrain is so superior, I will never ride anything else off-road ever again. Years ago I was a big proponent of the 2x9 drivetrain development. This is as revolutionary and a perfect match for fat bikes. It is just so simple and effective.

    btw, I tried that same e*thirteen direct mount ring. While it does work, it does not give you the ideal chainline for a 190 rear hub. It would be better on a 170 hub. Of course if you want a 28, it's your only option unless you swap the whole crank.
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  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    My perspective, and I am very serious, is that the 1X drivetrain is so superior
    agreed.

    This is as revolutionary
    no it isn't. neither is the bluto. sussy forks and 1x setups have been used for decades.

    and a perfect match for ANY bike.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^FIFY.

    rog

  50. #450
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    Years ago plenty of cyclocross riders rode 1X setups, but they also ran chain guides, chainring guards, and had to make do with standard cassettes.

    Production wide gear range 1X setups with NW chainrings have not been around for decades. The SRAM 10-42 cassette is relatively new (<3 years?) and that wide range is what makes it so useful. SRAM really nailed it with their 1X groups. I forgot to mention clutch derailleurs. The whole system is so much more than just a single ring.

    I know 1X is not for every single bike. I get it. Some people like more gear range. However, just like when I raced with a 2x8 and proto 2x9 setup in '98, I have yet to find a need for more than 1x11 gears on my fat bike. So that's why I busted out the dremel.
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  51. #451
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    I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.

    The wheels on all are fine. The weak link is the rear hub which has proven to be problematic for some.
    Ah! See I am going to get the front wheel relaxed for a Bluto anyhow. And if the back hub sucks it'll get replaced too. So that negates the need to pony up for nicer wheels. Seems like the standard Fatboy is for me.
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  52. #452
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    they made due with standard cassettes cuz they weren't pu$$ies.

    rog

  53. #453
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    I just tried to put a RaceFace Narrow-Wide 30T chainring on my Samox crank to convert it to a 1X10. I can't get the crank bolt off. Based on the posts I've seen about these cranks, I am guessing that it may be seized. The bike is two weeks old with about 30 miles on it. Should I really reef on it (breaker bar) or just bring it to the shop so, that if it breaks/strips, they will 'own' the warranty coverage?

  54. #454
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    I just tried to put a RaceFace Narrow-Wide 30T chainring on my Samox crank to convert it to a 1X10. I can't get the crank bolt off. Based on the posts I've seen about these cranks, I am guessing that it may be seized. The bike is two weeks old with about 30 miles on it. Should I really reef on it (breaker bar) or just bring it to the shop so, that if it breaks/strips, they will 'own' the warranty coverage?
    I had to stand on my big boy wrench. It screeched quite a bit but came out. If it won't budge without a cheater I would take it in, otherwise might strip.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post

    I know 1X is not for every single bike. I get it. Some people like more gear range. However, just like when I raced with a 2x8 and proto 2x9 setup in '98, I have yet to find a need for more than 1x11 gears on my fat bike. So that's why I busted out the dremel.
    Agreed, I could see the allure of 1x if all I rode was single track or trails, but riding my Fatboy as my only bike for 5+ months out of the year I need more gears.

    Yesterday I rode my Fatboy 10 mi to a Fatbike race, raced 15 mi, and then rode home. During the race I needed all of my gears from 22-36 for the hills in technical section to 36-11 on the flat out section on the lake with a 20 mph wind at my back. I probably could have done it on 1x11, but why pay a bunch more $$$ to limit my top and low end.

    Speaking of $$$, one nice thing I've found is with everyone wanting 1x11, 2x parts are dirt cheap. I was able to swap out the 3x on my MTB with XT (crank, cassette, derailuer) for less than a 11 speed cassette would cost.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    btw, I tried that same e*thirteen direct mount ring. While it does work, it does not give you the ideal chainline for a 190 rear hub. It would be better on a 170 hub. Of course if you want a 28, it's your only option unless you swap the whole crank.
    I agree 66mm chainline is not ideal for taller gears and it almost touches the rear tire, but I don't think the previous setup with Raceface 30t was ideal either. Something in between those would be optimal. Here's a pic of the chain line on 5th gear with 28t. Looks OK doesn't it?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-fatboy_bud_guidering_chainline_2.jpg  


  57. #457
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    Yeah 66 mm is usable. It favors the lower gears by about 1 cog change - not horrible. Optimal spacing for a 190 hub is 70-72 mm. I did almost leave it on, but with the big tires it is getting tight with the rear tire. So I through on a Blackspire 30T and with the 2 mm offset you get a 72.5 mm (though it doesn't look nearly as nice).

    Wolf Tooth wrote an excellent white paper for anyone who cares:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...ization_v2.pdf
    '15 Evil The Following
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  58. #458
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    Quick fatboy question: Does anyone know the correct wheel size to enter into a cyclometer? I measured my GC with a tape and converted to 2311 mm but I don't think I was very accurate. I'm traveling roughly an extra mile every hour twenty as compared to a friends GPS. Any info is appreciated thanks!

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    Quick fatboy question: Does anyone know the correct wheel size to enter into a cyclometer? I measured my GC with a tape and converted to 2311 mm but I don't think I was very accurate. I'm traveling roughly an extra mile every hour twenty as compared to a friends GPS. Any info is appreciated thanks!
    2300 would be closer

  60. #460
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    Thanks Michael. I'll try that out. To bad I'm going to lose that extra mile....

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    Thanks Michael. I'll try that out. To bad I'm going to lose that extra mile....
    I'd take your friends GPS with a grain of salt, my Garmin spits out funky lap distances all the time.

  62. #462
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    Mine measure 2362 mm in circumference or 752 mm O.D. or 29.6" O.D., but they are setup tubeless.

    GPS-only tracking can be over 10% inaccurate in the woods. I have seen 15%+ inaccurate in some locations due to twists and turns in the trail and poor satellite reception due to mountains, ravines, and dense tree cover.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  63. #463
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    Specialized Fatboy

    I am picking a Fatboy up on Wednesday. I ordered a Wolftooth 104bcd 30t front ring. Is this the correct one for 1x10? From my research and the shops it looked right. Thanks.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    I ordered a Wolftooth 104bcd 30t front ring. Is this the correct one for 1x10?
    Yes. Perfect. You also need the 10mm long chainring bolts.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  65. #465
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    U
    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Mine measure 2362 mm in circumference or 752 mm O.D. or 29.6" O.D., but they are setup tubeless.

    GPS-only tracking can be over 10% inaccurate in the woods. I have seen 15%+ inaccurate in some locations due to twists and turns in the trail and poor satellite reception due to mountains, ravines, and dense tree cover.
    Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    U

    Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.
    It is probably pretty close as the tires expand a bit when run tubeless. There is only a 2% difference between 2311 and 2362. The most accurate way to measure is to roll out the bike on your intended riding surface and measure the distance traveled for one exact revolution. This helps account for the knobs digging into the ground. It'll make the effective circumference a little smaller on softer terrain, but you are talking 1-2% max.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Yes. Perfect. You also need the 10mm long chainring bolts.
    Do I have to get the ones from Wolftooth?

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    Do I have to get the ones from Wolftooth?
    You can use any longer chainring bolt, I think 10 mm in length. The stock 6 mm ones are too short to be use with the threaded 30T ring. They won't give you enough thread engagement and will not properly support the ring.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    You can use any longer chainring bolt, I think 10 mm in length. The stock 6 mm ones are too short to be use with the threaded 30T ring. They won't give you enough thread engagement and will not properly support the ring.
    Thanks a lot! Glad I asked!

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    Fatboy SL just showed up today


  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Yeah 66 mm is usable. It favors the lower gears by about 1 cog change - not horrible. Optimal spacing for a 190 hub is 70-72 mm. I did almost leave it on, but with the big tires it is getting tight with the rear tire. So I through on a Blackspire 30T and with the 2 mm offset you get a 72.5 mm (though it doesn't look nearly as nice).

    Wolf Tooth wrote an excellent white paper for anyone who cares:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...ization_v2.pdf
    He forgot Úvodní stránka | Gebhardt

    http://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/10...s/IMGP1673.jpg
    http://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/10...s/IMGP1690.jpg
    http://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/10...s/IMGP1693.jpg
    http://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/10...s/IMGP1683.jpg
    http://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/10...s/IMGP1680.jpg

    Looks this is the only manufacturer, who is able to produce different sizes for cranks for tandem (e.g. 190 mm front x 165 mm rear) and also different left & right, if anybody needs.

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    U

    Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.
    What I know from Garmin Oregon 450 - most accurate is what is on GPS. (Yes, if you go trails with many curves, then you will lose them in tracklog - try it.) Other thing is, how to interpret these data on the computer. It usually means few meters on km lost, but especially vertical meters are lowered. Base Camp .... - 10 %, Bikemap.net .... - 20 % (in special examples even - 50 %).

    Best is Edge - it can combine info from satellite with wheel sensor. But it has only li-ion block, not replaceable AA batteries.

  73. #473
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    Picking my (standard model) Fatboy up on Saturday. My LBS is swapping out the brakes for XT and I'm paying a tad more for X9 trigger shifters.

    I have to say, the value on this is stunning. I've had two Pugsleys before this, just sold the second one to fund the Fatboy. I definitely see where the cost savings went though, but that stuff is inoffensive enough until I upgrade it. The fact that I'm starting in the low 30's instead of 36 lbs is great.

    I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?
    '15 Specialized Fatboy
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  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post

    I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?
    I'm 175# and have had not issues with the specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes. I wouldn't think you would have an issue
    '17 Cutthroat
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  75. #475
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    I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?[/QUOTE]

    I weigh 240# with winter kit.. no issues in 6 months with the tubes.. I also have Q-Tube Superlights in another Fatbike with no issues after 3 months..

  76. #476
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    Cool thanks. I've always used the Q-Tube SL's with no issues but never anything smaller.
    '15 Specialized Fatboy
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  77. #477
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    Just found out my BB bearings on my 2014 Expert are shot already. LBS said there is a no questions asked 1 year warranty. Of course they are not available at this moment from E-thirteen.

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Just found out my BB bearings on my 2014 Expert are shot already. LBS said there is a no questions asked 1 year warranty. Of course they are not available at this moment from E-thirteen.
    Weird- they don't show out of stock at their store- assuming these are the right ones....Pressfit 30 fatbike BB
    '17 Cutthroat
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  79. #479
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    beats me, maybe they have to come thru Specialized. I'm in no rush
    Last edited by edgeworker; 01-24-2015 at 05:01 AM.

  80. #480
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    Specialized Fatboy

    So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?
    I'm running a Q-tubes super light 2.4-2.7" on my Fatboy and it seems to be fine so far. These are only 250 g each, so even carrying a spare is not much of a penalty. I got em from Jenson USA.

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    I'm running a Q-tubes super light 2.4-2.7" on my Fatboy and it seems to be fine so far. These are only 250 g each, so even carrying a spare is not much of a penalty. I got em from Jenson USA.
    Thanks. Grabbing some today.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?
    Mind if I ask which method? I've been using Tyvek Tape, wrapped rim to rim, and it's been rock solid.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    Mind if I ask which method? I've been using Tyvek Tape, wrapped rim to rim, and it's been rock solid.
    I used the gorilla tape method with orange subzero. It seems like the tape doesn't hold. Done it 3 times now. Haven't heard of the Tyvek method, please enighten me.

  85. #485
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    I've had great luck with this, it's 4" wide so it spans edge to edge of rim. It also leaves no residue when removed and is somewhat stretchy.
    Trim Protection - Protective Products Int'l, Inc.

  86. #486
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    Specialized Fatboy

    I've used the taping method detailed in the following link, but use Tyvek tape instead (purchased rolls at Home Depot). The Tyvek is lighter and conforms better than the transparent tough tape mentioned.

    Link: http://cyclesinlife.com/tubeless-fat...ersion-update/
    Quote Originally Posted by mp1022 View Post
    I've had great luck with this, it's 4" wide so it spans edge to edge of rim. It also leaves no residue when removed and is somewhat stretchy.
    Trim Protection - Protective Products Int'l, Inc.
    I've been thinking of trying 4" tape, but haven't seen many good options. How thick is it compared to duct tape (or other common tape)? And how many wraps do you do?

  87. #487
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    I would say the thickness of the tape is similar to electrical tape. On my first wheel I did one wrap, on the second I did two. That was almost 2 months ago and I haven't lost any air pressure. Putting on the tape takes two people, one to hold the wheel and guide the tape, the other to pull the tape off the roll.

  88. #488
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    Specialized Fatboy

    You guys have talked me into trying this 1 more time. Just picked up some Tyvek tape, going to grab some surly rim strips today. Here is my plan:
    Remove Fatboy rim strip
    Clean rim and tire bead
    Install surly strip
    Clean rim and wipe down rim strip
    Install tape to the edge on each side
    Install a center piece of tape
    Use light heat from heat gun
    Install tube and tire
    Inflate to 20psi overnight
    Remove tube and add 6oz of Orange subzero.

    I'll let you know the outcome.

  89. #489
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    I used Specialized 24" 2.4 -3.0" tubes and went split tube. It was simple, aired up first try and neve lost a pound of air. I trimmed back to the sidewalls for clean look (can't even tell) and at $5.50 each shipped free from Amazon I'll just replace them when the tires are worn out in two years.
    And I really notice the bike seems to roll easier, not sure if it's the 700grams I lost btween frnt/back or the whole not compressing the tube thing. Or, perhaps it's in my head but the ride and traction is improved, I don't worry about flats and it was cheap, simple and effective. Can't beat that!

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by celdred1 View Post
    I used Specialized 24" 2.4 -3.0" tubes and went split tube. It was simple, aired up first try and neve lost a pound of air. I trimmed back to the sidewalls for clean look (can't even tell) and at $5.50 each shipped free from Amazon I'll just replace them when the tires are worn out in two years.
    And I really notice the bike seems to roll easier, not sure if it's the 700grams I lost btween frnt/back or the whole not compressing the tube thing. Or, perhaps it's in my head but the ride and traction is improved, I don't worry about flats and it was cheap, simple and effective. Can't beat that!
    I did a similar thing. I got the 24" tubes with removable cores. Inflated and held air without even using any goop. I still added 4 oz. of Stans via the removable core to each tire anyway.

  91. #491
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Stem suggestions for my Fatboy?

    Looking for a 30-40 degree 60-75mm stem.

    Initially looking at this one...

    http://www.bontrager.com/model/11233

  92. #492
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    I would try flipping the stock stem over and using a riser bar first. Remember anytime you use a stem with that much rise it also shortens up the overall length. This is a nice calculator I use to help figure things out.
    <:: Welcome to Slowtwitch.com ::>: Stem Rise & Stretch Calculator

  93. #493
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    Edit: beat me to it

    Make sure you check what position your bars will be in with a stem calculator...

    I went for an On-One

    On-One 3D Forged Stem | Planet X

  94. #494
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I would try flipping the stock stem over and using a riser bar first. Remember anytime you use a stem with that much rise it also shortens up the overall length. This is a nice calculator I use to help figure things out.
    : Stem Rise & Stretch Calculator
    Understand that. I believe my stock stem is 60 mm and 6 degree angle. I was thinking I could keep about the same reach by just using a longer stem with a 30-40 degree angle.

    That on one stem looks nice.

  95. #495
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    I went with an adjustable Specialized 90mm Multi stem Specialized Bicycle Components and also swapped in a 40mm riser Easton EC70 carbon handlebar. The bar is also about 1.5" shorter in overall length and a nice upgrade.
    2015 Specialized FATBOY EC70 Seatpost & Bars SRAM X7/Wolf 42T 1x10
    2016 Specialized DIVERGE Expert X1 SRAM 1x11 Force

  96. #496
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    From my rough calculations you would have to go with about a 90mm stem with a 35mm rise to have about the same reach as the stock 60mm.

  97. #497
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    I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.

  98. #498
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    I have no experience with the Tektro brakes, but I was on a ride last weekend - there were three different types of brakes on the ride and all three were howling like mad. There's a thread here somewhere talking about brake howl on snow rides. I don't think those Tektro brakes are very good, but don't expect any brake to be squeal free in the winter, unfortunately.

  99. #499
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    From my rough calculations you would have to go with about a 90mm stem with a 35mm rise to have about the same reach as the stock 60mm.
    I just cheated. I did some layouts in CAD.

    A 60mm stem at a 30 degree angle would shorten my reach ~5/16" and raise my bars about an 1"

    A 70 mm stem at a 30 degree angle would have the same reach as my stock stem and raise the bars ~1-1/8"

    I wouldn't mine shortening my reach just a hair. Now which stem to purchase is the question.

  100. #500
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.
    I rented a Fatboy last weekend and rode it for 2 days in the snow. The brakes would squeal like crazy the first couple times I used them then it went away the rest of the day. I just assume some snow or other grit was in there and a couple of uses cleaned 'em out.

    It really didn't bother me though.

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