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  1. #301
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    Rode some pretty rocky, boney stuff this weekend. The Fatty hung right in there with a dude on a pretty nice Stumpy. The other guy on a hard tail 27.5 Storck did not fare so well...
    '15 Evil The Following
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  2. #302
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    My first year w fboy.

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  3. #303
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    I've just fitted a Bud up front as conditions have gone muddy.

    The GC's were skating and darting all over the place - super dangerous

    Plenty of clearance between the fork stansions.

    Knobs are huge

    Specialized Fatboy-dsc_0323.jpg

  4. #304
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    I've been riding mine fatboy in sloppy conditions over the past 2 months with no issues at all with the GC tires. It is the only fat tire I've ever ridden, so I guess I wouldnt know if I was missing out on anything, but what I have seems pretty sweet so far.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  5. #305
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    I have ridden Hüsker Dü's, Nates, Ground Controls and a Bud. The HD's were the least capable of all. Nates were awesome in most all terrain. I find the GC's to be equal to the Nates, except bigger- so they get great purchase in the rear, but almost more self-steer in the front on dirt + lower psi's. Nothing I've ridden beats the Bud in front in deep snow. (Though maybe some of the newer offerings might- I dunno).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  6. #306
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    During the summer when it was dry adn hard pack I ran about 8psi and didnt have to many issues with self steer unless I dropped to the 5psi range. In the wet I run 5psi and it seems to grip the roots/rocks real nice and just floats over mud and puddles and that.
    Compared to my trail bike there is a TON more traction so I'm pretty happy.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  7. #307
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  8. #308
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    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!

    Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)

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  9. #309
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    Swing by your LBS. They should have a bunch laying around. Or pickup a "fancy" new cap and you get a new screw with it.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for?

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!
    I have the Orange Fatboy (with the blue accents/stickers) and picked up the blue one for the bling factor: Headset Top Cap 1 1 8" | eBay

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  11. #311
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    Looks like way to much torque on that bolt? Might want to have the LBS check your headset.
    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!

    Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)


  12. #312
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    it rocks!

    Loving this bike!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-20141119_163320%5B1%5D.jpg  


  13. #313
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    so today i had my wheel bearings replaced on my rear hub.. lbs says it was not covered under warranty... normal wear and tear.. apparently 3 of the 4 bearings were broken.. 4 wheel bearings? is this correct? had the fatboy for 3 mos.. but i ride it almost everyday

  14. #314
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    Hub bearings should not wear out after 3 months of normal high mileage, frequent riding.

    If water displaced the grease it is possible, though. As in creek crossings, lots of garden hose washing, rainy commutes.

    High quality hubs with seals that work are more resistant to moisture. I have read that these hubs may not be top shelf?

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by jan_nikolajsen View Post
    Hub bearings should not wear out after 3 months of normal high mileage, frequent riding.

    If water displaced the grease it is possible, though. As in creek crossings, lots of garden hose washing, rainy commutes.

    High quality hubs with seals that work are more resistant to moisture. I have read that these hubs may not be top shelf?
    Lbs said hardly any grease in there.. Never rode my fatboy in the rain.. never seen mud as well.. tires were hosed after every trail ride but the hub was avoided at all cost and bike was cleaned and dried after ( i take good care of my stuff, especially after all the money in parts invested ).. Soon as i heard the ticking sound this am riding on the streets, i knew it was my rear hub.. Prepared for the worst after hearing stories of hub failures in fatboys.. Anyway, lbs said my axle is fine, just bad bearings.. Took it out for a ride again this pm and everything was quiet..

  16. #316
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    I checked my front and rear hubs yesterday, no grease at all under hub end caps. Rear hub axle looked like steel, front hub axle was definitely made of alloy.

    After removing the end caps, I couldn't remove the freehub by just pulling it out, how should it be done?

    Going to check if the BB is completely dry today...

  17. #317
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    The freehub does just pull off, with some difficulty. You might have to use a soft hammer to tap out part of the axle. The bearings are sealed. There should be no grease outside of the seals. When I replaced my freehub with an xdriver, everything looked okay. I think these hubs are made by Formula btw.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  18. #318
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    Hey gearless... (Timmy), this is hot dog.... Yours is sweet. I just paid for a Fat Boy last night, go to pick it up today on my lunch break. Still can't decide on color. Originally thought I'd go black, but after seeing the army green in person. Damn! Army green is sweet.

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    so today i had my wheel bearings replaced on my rear hub.. lbs says it was not covered under warranty... normal wear and tear.. apparently 3 of the 4 bearings were broken.. 4 wheel bearings? is this correct? had the fatboy for 3 mos.. but i ride it almost everyday
    The broken bearings may have been caused by an axle problem. It is none of my business, but rear hub problems seem common in general on the fatboy. The parts were defective unless you abused them in some fashion, and should have been under warranty (barring abuse). Normal wear and tear should not come into play on a 3 month old bike.

    Can you share if your shop or Specalized were the ones to ultimately claim the job was not warranty?

  20. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by adaycj View Post
    The broken bearings may have been caused by an axle problem. It is none of my business, but rear hub problems seem common in general on the fatboy. The parts were defective unless you abused them in some fashion, and should have been under warranty (barring abuse). Normal wear and tear should not come into play on a 3 month old bike.

    Can you share if your shop or Specalized were the ones to ultimately claim the job was not warranty?
    My lbs ( where i bought the fatboy ) was the one who decided it was not under warranty.. Paid $55 to replace the bearings.. They have been very good with warranty so far.. Lost my puller cap on my samox crankset last month and just needed that part, they however called up spesh and was able to upgrade my crankset to e.thirteen, the same as the expert for free.. They could have just said i'm sol but they got my new cranks..

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!

    Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)
    Yeah! The original part was cheapo. Got this from Kustom Caps. Colors matched my Expert.

    Sugar Skull w/ Bolt Bicycle Headset Cap by KustomCaps | KustomCaps



    I use this tool to tighten stuff...

    Ritchey Multi-Bit Toqkey Wrench

  22. #322
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    If you guys are stripping out that bolt, then you are over-tightening the headset or improperly adjusting. You only need a light pre-load on those headset bearings to take out any play.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  23. #323
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    My LBS has been promoting the fact that the Fatboy frame will accommodate a variety of rim/tire widths, including the wider options. This seems like an advantage over bikes like the Trek Farley that are limited to 4" tires and narrower rims. I've ridden a 2015 Farley-8, though, and really liked it, finding that it seemed surprisingly quick and nimble. I was able to keep up with my buddies riding 29'ers.

    With the wider, Ground Control 4.6 tires on 90mm rims, the Fatboy that I've tested was stable and could rumble over darn near anything, but the acceleration seemed a bit slower, and the handling a little heavy compared to the Farley. The Specialized LBS said I could have them build narrower rims to accommodate 3.8-4.0 inch tires to create a trail/"Summer" setup. I'd like to get a fatbike primarily as a trail/"Summer" bike, with sand/snow riding as a secondary consideration.

    Has anyone tried narrower rims/tires (a "summer" setup) on their Fatboy? Did you find that the bike was perkier with this setup? Or, since the Fatboy comes standard with the wider rims/tires, maybe that's it's true comfort zone, and it doesn't really accommodate the narrower setups as well as fat bikes designed around, say, a 65 mm rim with 3.8 Nates (Salsa) or a Trek Farley?? Being able to go narrower or wide would be great, but not at the expense of the ride quality when setup narrower. The purported versatility almost seems too good to be true...

  24. #324
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    The Fatboy geometry is a copy of the Carve/Crave 29er, so I wouldn't see a slimmer rim/tire combo creating any problems for you. Just my 2 cents.

    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    My LBS has been promoting the fact that the Fatboy frame will accommodate a variety of rim/tire widths, including the wider options. This seems like an advantage over bikes like the Trek Farley that are limited to 4" tires and narrower rims. I've ridden a 2015 Farley-8, though, and really liked it, finding that it seemed surprisingly quick and nimble. I was able to keep up with my buddies riding 29'ers.

    With the wider, Ground Control 4.6 tires on 90mm rims, the Fatboy that I've tested was stable and could rumble over darn near anything, but the acceleration seemed a bit slower, and the handling a little heavy compared to the Farley. The Specialized LBS said I could have them build narrower rims to accommodate 3.8-4.0 inch tires to create a trail/"Summer" setup. I'd like to get a fatbike primarily as a trail/"Summer" bike, with sand/snow riding as a secondary consideration.

    Has anyone tried narrower rims/tires (a "summer" setup) on their Fatboy? Did you find that the bike was perkier with this setup? Or, since the Fatboy comes standard with the wider rims/tires, maybe that's it's true comfort zone, and it doesn't really accommodate the narrower setups as well as fat bikes designed around, say, a 65 mm rim with 3.8 Nates (Salsa) or a Trek Farley?? Being able to go narrower or wide would be great, but not at the expense of the ride quality when setup narrower. The purported versatility almost seems too good to be true...

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pillage&Burn View Post
    Hey gearless... (Timmy), this is hot dog.... Yours is sweet. I just paid for a Fat Boy last night, go to pick it up today on my lunch break. Still can't decide on color. Originally thought I'd go black, but after seeing the army green in person. Damn! Army green is sweet.
    yes, it is. I had no choice. they had one and now they have none!

  26. #326
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    I now have the e13 crank and BB on it's way to replace the somax rubbish and also they will pay 100euros towards the rear hub for what ever i choose to do with it which will be a new Hope Fatso hub. Thumbs up!
    I maybe getting older but i refuse to grow up!

  27. #327
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    Also in the blown freehub group, waiting to hear back from the LBS. Is the Hope hub a direct swap?
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  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stump 29 View Post
    Yeah! The original part was cheapo.
    I use this tool to tighten stuff...

    Ritchey Multi-Bit Toqkey Wrench
    Cheers man! I actually have that Ritchey key already and it indeed the goods. I didn't overtorque the top cap bolt in my pic - that's what it looked like when I went to adjust it. It's actually fine (though I'm replacing it anyway), it just looks like whoever put the bike together got sloppy with the wrench.
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  29. #329
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    My Fatboy expert is also at the LBS with freehub issues. I broke a chain last night and riding it today I noticed it would self shift under load. I tried tuning the rear derailer and noticed that the rear cassette would wobble 3/8". At first I thought the cassette was loose but after double checking the torque the freehub was determined to be the culprit.

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    Also in the blown freehub group, waiting to hear back from the LBS. Is the Hope hub a direct swap?
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.
    So was my factory hub, but in a metal on metal snapping, popping kind of way. Glad to hear there is an alternative to the factory POS.

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.
    Fatsno Rear hub | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England

    This one, yeah? 190mm for the rear?
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  33. #333
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    I have 320 miles in my fatboy. With atleast half of that in wet conditions. No rear hub issues but im going to keep an eye on it now.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.
    Will the stock spokes work or do you need different lengths?

  35. #335
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    ...many miles on the Fatboy and swapped out the freehub for an xdriver unit (same design). i only weigh 142# and tend to be light on equipment tho...i have heard Formula makes our hubs, though they looked a lot like my Nova's.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Will the stock spokes work or do you need different lengths?
    Yes. I swapped the front hub with a Hope when I installed the Bluto. First time for me. Did the same at the rear. I had my LBS tension and true each wheel. That part I have not mastered yet.

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    Yup. I missed the boat on this by replacing mine before it blew up but my buddy's LBS in NH got his warrantied by Specialized with a new Hope as opposed to another stock part.

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by soloyo View Post
    last updates
    Attachment 938245
    Hi

    can you give me the exact model of your crankset please ?
    100/175 or 190/175 Cinch turbine ...

    I set up a 190/175 on mine and it seems huge !!!

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Yes. I swapped the front hub with a Hope when I installed the Bluto. First time for me. Did the same at the rear. I had my LBS tension and true each wheel. That part I have not mastered yet.
    Did you use the 135 or 150mm Hope hub? We're you able to use the same spokes or did you need different lengths? Thanks!
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  40. #340
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    I am considering a fatboy and putting 29er+ on it in the summer. Any thoughts from anyone?

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Did you use the 135 or 150mm Hope hub? We're you able to use the same spokes or did you need different lengths? Thanks!
    150mm w/same spokes.

  42. #342
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    Does anyone happen to know what a Fatboy medium frame (only) weighs? I'm trying to compare it to the Rocky Mountain Blizzard and Borealis Echo frames for a build I'd like to do soon and the frame weight info doesn't seem to appear on the Specialized website. Thanks.

  43. #343
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    Hello everyone, Im a new poster to the forums so please forgive me if I am in the wrong place, I didnt want to start a new thread. I read through all the threads about the Fatboy and did a search for sizing but did not really come up with much for size recomendations.

    I have the itch again for a fatbike and have decided that its time I take the plunge. I have ridden a few pugs and a mukluk and over the summer got to take a ride on a fatboy pro with the bluto and had a blast. I have decided if I am going to take the plunge its going to be the Fatboy. I have a shop I would really like to support in my purchase but It would have to be a special order from them.

    I am trying to decide what frame size to go with. My main bikes are a medium Surly Ogre, and a large Soma B Side. I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same. Seated riding felt good, but I noticed that when standing and pedaling to sprint with any weight forward at all the front end just didnt feel the same. The stem is 10mm shorter then what im used to but it wasnt a quick or twitchy feeling, more floppy and sluggish if that makes sense. The tire pressure did seem to be very low, much lower than the one I rode over the summer was Im sure. I wish I wouldve been able to play around with pressures but It was just jumping on somones bike for a quick try. I guess my question is have any of you noticed this sensation when the tire pressure is very low? The bike shop reccomended the medium (would be just barely small enough for my girlfriend to ride as well, bonus!) but if it really came down to it I would rather jump up a size. The effective top tube between the medium specialzed, my surly and soma are all within about 3mm and the reach lands directly between. I would like to test ride more but its an hour drive to the nearest shop that has a medium and large in stock. Time isnt really allowing the trip and I also dont feel good about testing a bike at one shop to order it from another. Any words of advise from those of you who already have them? Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance! I just want to be out there riding with all of you in the snow!

  44. #344
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    Off topic but did your shop tell you that specialized is sold out of every model of fat boy right now? Just saying if another shop has both a 17 & 19 that you can ride back to back it might be worth the drive, especially if you want the bike now.

  45. #345
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    I'm 5'10" on the nose. I ride a 2013 Stumpjumper Evo in medium with a 60mms stem and I've had an Enduro Evo, Fsrxc and a Rockhopper Pro 29, all in medium size.
    When I bought my Fatboy I tried a medium and a large and ended up getting a large. I swapped to 740mm bars and a 45mm and it is a perfect fit. It feels stable without being sluggish and I love the longer wheelbase of the large. The only issue I have is that with my command post extended fully it is too tall. I may need to switch to a 100mm version or a KS Lev.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthCoastZack View Post
    I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same.
    I am 5'11" and have a 32" inseam. I went with the large frame. Seems right. I put on a 80 mm stem with more rise (way more) and am very happy with the geometry. Normally I would be all about erring on the downside of size, but I don't think the medium would be right. You need to just suck it up and buy your GF a Boris or something.

  47. #347
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    Quick question - vBulletin search is grim for stuff like this so apologies if it's been asked/answered.

    Anyone running the 4.8" Dillingers? Any clearance issues? I ordered a set and in my head, the GCs were 4.8 and not 4.6. (whoops..)
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  48. #348
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    I do. 5" Dillinger studded front and rear. 1x11. No issues.

  49. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    Quick question - vBulletin search is grim for stuff like this so apologies if it's been asked/answered.

    Anyone running the 4.8" Dillingers? Any clearance issues? I ordered a set and in my head, the GCs were 4.8 and not 4.6. (whoops..)
    Dillinger 5's and the Bud/Lou. D5's actually are slightly smaller than the GC's:
    Bud/Lou versus Dillinger 5
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  50. #350
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Yeah they are not much bigger than a nate. I think they actually came out to be a 4.25 tire. They fit my Mukluk no problem.

  51. #351
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    You guys rock. Thanks!
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  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthCoastZack View Post
    Hello everyone, Im a new poster to the forums so please forgive me if I am in the wrong place, I didnt want to start a new thread. I read through all the threads about the Fatboy and did a search for sizing but did not really come up with much for size recomendations.

    I have the itch again for a fatbike and have decided that its time I take the plunge. I have ridden a few pugs and a mukluk and over the summer got to take a ride on a fatboy pro with the bluto and had a blast. I have decided if I am going to take the plunge its going to be the Fatboy. I have a shop I would really like to support in my purchase but It would have to be a special order from them.

    I am trying to decide what frame size to go with. My main bikes are a medium Surly Ogre, and a large Soma B Side. I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same. Seated riding felt good, but I noticed that when standing and pedaling to sprint with any weight forward at all the front end just didnt feel the same. The stem is 10mm shorter then what im used to but it wasnt a quick or twitchy feeling, more floppy and sluggish if that makes sense. The tire pressure did seem to be very low, much lower than the one I rode over the summer was Im sure. I wish I wouldve been able to play around with pressures but It was just jumping on somones bike for a quick try. I guess my question is have any of you noticed this sensation when the tire pressure is very low? The bike shop reccomended the medium (would be just barely small enough for my girlfriend to ride as well, bonus!) but if it really came down to it I would rather jump up a size. The effective top tube between the medium specialzed, my surly and soma are all within about 3mm and the reach lands directly between. I would like to test ride more but its an hour drive to the nearest shop that has a medium and large in stock. Time isnt really allowing the trip and I also dont feel good about testing a bike at one shop to order it from another. Any words of advise from those of you who already have them? Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance! I just want to be out there riding with all of you in the snow!
    I am 5'11 and have a fatboy large, fits me well, the medium was just to tight for me

  53. #353
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    Thanks everyone for your help! I kind of suspected that this would be the case. Wishful thinking I guess. I too normally go on the smaller side of things but in this case I need to at least ride a large again. It will be a week or so before I can get to a shop for a ride but my gut is saying I'll end up with a large, I appreciate the replies! Thanks again!

  54. #354
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    FWIW I'm 5'10, 175lbs and the medium fits me perfectly. Everyone's different though, so definitely take both sizes for a spin if you can!
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  55. #355
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    I'm just about 6' with long arms and legs, I have never sat on a Medium, but the Large I have seems perfect.

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I'm just about 6' with long arms and legs, I have never sat on a Medium, but the Large I have seems perfect.
    Ditto. 6'0", 32 pants. Went large and it felt great stock. Haven't adjusted the fit at all.

  57. #357
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Just shy of 6'3" and riding a large with no mods. Happy with the fit...I ride larges in almost everything...


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  58. #358
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    Fatboy SE?

    I ran into a mechanic from a local LBS that carries Specialized and he told me that there is an upcoming Fatboy SE at a lower price-point. I did a quick search and didn't see anything. Has anyone heard of this?

  59. #359
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    Specialized Fatboy


  60. #360
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    Right on with the sizing: I am 5'8" with a 32" inseam and the medium fits me quite well. I bumped up my stem to a 70mm -6deg to get a lower XC position, but that is a personal preference. I rode the bike stock out of the box for a couple of weeks too. Specialized did a good job with the cockpit and handling of this bike. It is easy and accommodating.
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  61. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by plussa View Post
    Fatboy SE pics and specs here: -Pyörähuolto.com-

    Interesting.... Judging from the price difference between this and the standard Fatboy in (Euros 1499 to 1999) this looks to be about $613 cheaper, which would put it in the $1400 price range of the new low spec Felt in the US. Looking through the specs looks like downgraded brakes, drivetrain, and possibly an alloy fork? Wouldn't be bad though for those folks who end up swapping out most of the parts anyway.
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  62. #362
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    ^Wow. If they get into the $1400 price range, they're going to sell like hotcakes.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  63. #363
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    They're already selling like hotcakes.

  64. #364
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    It will be nice to have something on a showroom floor that is in the neighborhood $1,500.

    FWIW - He said that they have one on order and expect it prior to Christmas. I frequent this LBS, so I'll keep an eye out for it.

  65. #365
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    I have seen quite some people asking about an XD-driver (XX1 freehub) for the stock Fatboy wheelset with the Joytech hubs.

    The partnumber is S141000002 and XD-Driver is available from your local Specialized dealer - atleast in Europe it is

    I hope this helps.

  66. #366
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    Just thought I'd pile on. Bought a base Fatboy a few weeks ago - intended use is winter singletrack riding in the snow here in Denver, CO. Hint hint weather gods. Normal bike is a Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon. So far just dirt - and gotta say I really like the bike - I like the way it ride and handles. Yeah its heavy but it climbs pretty well, but you do get bounced around a little by the tires. I'm trying to enjoy the bike as-is and not start upgrading things - we'll see how that goes. But I did add a new stem with a little more rise and a carbon riser handlebar - between the two my riding position is where it should be. Anyway - I've never been much of a fan of the big bike companies but Specialized did a great job if you ask me. Now if it we could just get some snow.....

    Cheers

  67. #367
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    Tubeless makes a big difference to weight and makes the bike feel more snappy under pedaling too - a worthy upgrade if it's pretty much the only one you do

  68. #368
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    ^It's not a matter of if, but a matter of how soon I do it.

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonesetter2004 View Post
    Tubeless makes a big difference to weight and makes the bike feel more snappy under pedaling too - a worthy upgrade if it's pretty much the only one you do
    Agreed. But if you swap tires a lot, I've found the lighter specialized 26x2.3-3.0 tubes end up weighing about the same as Stans/rim tape and are a lot easier to setup. You do lose the puncture protection though so not a good option in thorny areas.
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  70. #370
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    A tubeless setup can be done successfully on these wheels with proper taping technique. You need to take care to do a good job with your taping due to the vent holes on the perimeter of the rim. You also need to use a non-porous tape or put enough layers so that the air does not bleed through all of the cutouts in the center.

    It is a very worthwhile modification for this bike, imho, as it allows you to run super low pressures while maintaining flat protection. You will lose roughly 1.5 pounds of weight total. Once taped up, the Ground Controls sit nice and snug on the rims. I've run pressures as low as 3 psi in wet and cold conditions with no problems.

    For tape, I have had success with Gorilla, Nashua UL duct, 3M Extreme Transparent, and even regular grade duct tape 4" wide. I thought the Gorilla worked the best. They all came out to roughly 100-120 grams of tape per wheel. With the thinner tapes, I needed to run multiple layers to get a good seal. With the thicker tapes, I was able to get away with one layer, provided I was careful.
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  71. #371
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    Are they discontinuing the standard fatboy. Their website for the fatboy and the fatboy se both take you to the fatboy se page. I have been trying to look up the fatboy to compare differences but haven't been able to.

  72. #372
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    ^At least I can see all four models, only the Fatboy SL is missing.

    ^^ I have had success with cling film. I wrapped tightly around the rim 8 times, taped the seam with Scotch tough duct tape and pushed the valve through the wrap. Inflated very easily thanks to the concave shape the tight wrap makes, and has been holding air nicely for 3 weeks now. Weight approximately 10g per wheel...

  73. #373
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    I watched a youtube video out of the UK on this method. Would like to try. can you tell me what kind of cling wrap? Does Just regular kitchen grade work? Can you buy it in narrower widths or do just cut off the extra and call it good?
    Also, did you inflate once and then deflate and break the bead and add some stan's before riding? Thanks! -C

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vincent Billy View Post
    Hi

    can you give me the exact model of your crankset please ?
    100/175 or 190/175 Cinch turbine ...

    I set up a 190/175 on mine and it seems huge !!!
    Soloyo also has the 190mm spaced CINCH Turbines, however if you already have a RF CINCH crank and DM ring, you can order our 170mm spaced spindle kit (PN F30031) and flip your DM chainring outboard. This will clear a 4.8" tire and will yield the tightest Q-Factor possible (202mm). This setup only works for 1x setups with our DM rings though, so if you're running a 2x or non-DM ring, you'll need the 190mm spaced spindle. Hope this helps!

  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceFace-suit View Post
    Soloyo also has the 190mm spaced CINCH Turbines, however if you already have a RF CINCH crank and DM ring, you can order our 170mm spaced spindle kit (PN F30031) and flip your DM chainring outboard. This will clear a 4.8" tire and will yield the tightest Q-Factor possible (202mm). This setup only works for 1x setups with our DM rings though, so if you're running a 2x or non-DM ring, you'll need the 190mm spaced spindle. Hope this helps!
    I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.

    Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?

    Thanks!

  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.

    Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?

    Thanks!
    Hey Jester,

    Haven't heard of any real issues yet as everything we've tested it on, hasn't yielded any clearance issues. The chain will be marginally closer to the tire with the flipped DM on 170 setup, so the only thing we've come across was very minor chain slap against tire (4.8" while in granny) however it was minor, so chain was never caught up on tire causing issue.

    I'm running this exact setup on our Fatbike Mule which happens to be a Fatboy, so I'm pretty confident in this setup. Other than wanting a wider chainline, I can't really see a reason to run the 190 spaced spindle with a 1x setup. When the 190mm spaced standard was introduced, everyone loved the ability to run the wider tires, btu we heard lots of negative feedback regarding the massive Q-Factor you were forced into. That's why the 170mm spaced spindle w/ flipped DM seems to be the best of both worlds; tighter Q and the ability to clear 4.8" tires.

    Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.

    Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?

    Thanks!
    Not positive what this is all in reference to, but I had a RF Next SL 175 length, 170 spindle running with a RF Direct Mount ring and ran it just fine w/ a 42t ring in back and Ground Control. DM ring was not flipped to err out, but in.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by floorguy View Post
    Are they discontinuing the standard fatboy. Their website for the fatboy and the fatboy se both take you to the fatboy se page. I have been trying to look up the fatboy to compare differences but haven't been able to.
    You might have to change region to view it.

    The Australian site doesn't list the SE version. If I change to U.S. I can view it.

    I wonder if there are any shops that would ship an SE model to Australia for me. We'll probably get dudded, and won't be offered this model...

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by celdred1 View Post
    Does Just regular kitchen grade work? Can you buy it in narrower widths or do just cut off the extra and call it good?
    Also, did you inflate once and then deflate and break the bead and add some stan's before riding? Thanks! -C
    Regular kitchen grade works, and you can split the roll with a utility knife so you get two rolls that are just enough wide for Fatboy rims.

    • Wipe the rim edge clean with alcohol, to make sure the first layer of cling wrap grips the edge and does not slip
    • Wrap around 5-10 times. Keep the the wrap tight and stretched all the time to avoid wrinkles.
    • Tape the seam with gorilla tape or clear duct tape
    • Push the valve through the wrap and tighten the nut
    • Very carefully install the tire and do not break the top wrap layer at this point
    • Because the wrap does not touch the rim fully at this point, inflating is very easy. Tire bead should be touching the wrap already. I used a compressor and put sealant when putting the tire on, no need to inflate/deflate/break the bead. Using a floor pump only could be possible too... Tire bead was wet of sealant from previous installation, so it was slippery and popped easily. A slippery tire bead also does not grab the wrap, as it's kind of tacky.
    • After the tire has popped, do the Stan's shake and trim the edges with a utility knife. Air pressure now presses the wrap tightly around rim like tape. 8 layers are actually quite strong, just try pushing your finger through it.


    Here's how the rim looks after 8 tight wraps done with a full-width roll:


  80. #380
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    My only concern about the cling wrap method - can you remount tires without having to re-do it? Seems like there's a good possibility of wrecking it when you remove a tire. It looks like a great option.

  81. #381
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    No, it's one-time use only just like the popular split tube ghetto method. But cheaper to replace...

  82. #382
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    Gotcha, I re-use split tube liners (I'm on my third tires with my current split tubes). I don't change tires that often, so cling wrap is still a good option, I'll try it with my next tire change.

  83. #383
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    I recently got a Fatboy and tried Scotch Transparent tape on the front wheel, and Tyvek tape on the rear following this writeup: Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life

    They both sealed up so easily I had to do a double take (w/o wrapping a tube around, just horizontal on a bucket w/ "loose" bead down). I also started with 4oz of Orange Seal. They've lost a bit of air, so I'm going to add 2 more oz to each and I think that'll do it. I don't hear any sloshing anymore, and I can't find any specific leaking air, so I think the tires just need to be plugged up a bit w/ sealant.

    I'll update again, but it was so damn easy that even if I need to pump up before a ride, I'd do it again every time.

  84. #384
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    Once you get the system sealed, it loses virtually no air. I have found the Ground Controls to be quite good in that regard. I have also taken them off and remounted several times with no issues. The tires work really well tubeless. My tires weighed 1,500 grams each. This partially explains their durability. These are high quality tires with uniform dimensions.
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  85. #385
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    What's the difference between the Expert and the Base model (not SE, former base model with carbon fork)? The Spec website no longer has a page for this model, only the SE? I amtrying to decide between Expert and base model and want to know what the $$$ buys me.

  86. #386
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    Canadian site still have them: Specialized Bicycle Components

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    What's the difference between the Expert and the Base model (not SE, former base model with carbon fork)? The Spec website no longer has a page for this model, only the SE? I amtrying to decide between Expert and base model and want to know what the $$$ buys me.
    base has samox crankset, x7 rear derailleur and tektro brakes.. expert has e.thirteen crankset, xo rear derailleur and shimano brakes.. also aside from different spokes and nipples everything else is the same

  88. #388
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    Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?
    you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..

  90. #390
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    Specialized Fatboy

    For how I have been using this bike (ocean beach, snow, mud, road salt etc.). The lower end the components, the better. When you wear them out, you can find great deals online to upgrade or just keep buying the cheap stuff. Given how heavy the wheels are, I doubt you will notice much difference in the performance unless you are racing. The x7 has been fine


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  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?
    The Tektro works well enough. It's not going to blow you away, or inspire too much confidence during dirt riding. But should be fine for snow. The crank is pretty meh, I just swapped out to a RaceFace 1x Cinch crank - but that was mostly for q-factor.

    The Shimano Deore brakes would be a substantial upgrade. And the e.thirteen crank would be noticeable as well. Same with the rear X0.

    If you would plan to upgrade any of these parts from stock, then getting the Expert is probably worth it. I would see no reason to replace any of these.

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceFace-suit View Post
    Hey Jester,

    Haven't heard of any real issues yet as everything we've tested it on, hasn't yielded any clearance issues. The chain will be marginally closer to the tire with the flipped DM on 170 setup, so the only thing we've come across was very minor chain slap against tire (4.8" while in granny) however it was minor, so chain was never caught up on tire causing issue.

    I'm running this exact setup on our Fatbike Mule which happens to be a Fatboy, so I'm pretty confident in this setup. Other than wanting a wider chainline, I can't really see a reason to run the 190 spaced spindle with a 1x setup. When the 190mm spaced standard was introduced, everyone loved the ability to run the wider tires, btu we heard lots of negative feedback regarding the massive Q-Factor you were forced into. That's why the 170mm spaced spindle w/ flipped DM seems to be the best of both worlds; tighter Q and the ability to clear 4.8" tires.

    Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!
    Hey Suit,

    Thanks for your response before! I just installed the Next SL cranks and had a couple of questions:
    1. With the preload ring, I didn't use the crush washer - is that correct?
    2. When I tried using the spindle shims (as well as the Specialized large spacers), tightening the crank arm was putting tension on the bearings. I didn't use them and took up the small bit of slack with the preload ring - do you have a similar setup on the Fatboy Mule? Or are you using a RaceFace BB as well?
    3. When I tightened the preload ring "finger tight", the cranks spun freely, but when I tightened the bolt on said ring, it put tension on the bearings and they were binding. I did a bit of trial and error and backed the ring off just enough so that there wasn't tension when I tightened that bolt - is this normal?


    As they are setup right now, the cranks seem awesome! Just want to make sure I did it right!

    Thanks!

  93. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..
    How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?

  94. #394
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    Thanks for the perspective. My LBS has no Experts, only the base model, hence my questions.

  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?
    i lost the puller cap on my samox crankset.. told my lbs if they can get the part for me otherwise it will be next to impossible to remove the crankset.. they spoke with spesh and spesh sent the the whole e.thirteen bb and crankset..

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?
    I got a freebie upgrade to Turbine Cinches. The drive side pedal threads on my crappy Samox stockers stripped out, and they just ended up replacing them with the RFs.
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  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    The Tektro works well enough. It's not going to blow you away, or inspire too much confidence during dirt riding. But should be fine for snow. The crank is pretty meh, I just swapped out to a RaceFace 1x Cinch crank - but that was mostly for q-factor.

    The Shimano Deore brakes would be a substantial upgrade. And the e.thirteen crank would be noticeable as well. Same with the rear X0.

    If you would plan to upgrade any of these parts from stock, then getting the Expert is probably worth it. I would see no reason to replace any of these.
    I've been pleased with the basic performance of these parts. I didn't think there was enough of a difference between the price of a Base and the price of the Expert to warrant the extra expense for a novice rider like myself. In fact, during test rides, the biggest difference I noticed was in the pedals with the Bennies on the Expert feeling mighty tasty.

    My experience so far has reinforced the wisdom of that decision, and I'll upgrade when or if and when the initial items give way...or I become a lot more demanding rider...or both.

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    base has samox crankset, x7 rear derailleur and tektro brakes.. expert has e.thirteen crankset, xo rear derailleur and shimano brakes.. also aside from different spokes and nipples everything else is the same
    You forgot the most important one.... RED!!!



    Although after seeing the Orange in person, and watching Koekoek flog it in this vid (http://youtu.be/3wQyYCkk8FU) it is a awesome looking bike as well.
    '17 Cutthroat
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  99. #399
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    Cool vid!! Love my "orange crush".

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    64km on the beach today. Fatboy at Blackrock on the Victorian West coast

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