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  1. #1
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I just took delivery of my Fat Boy Expert two days ago, first ride was yesterday. I thought I'd post some wheel/tire/tube weight info for y'all.

    The front wheel complete with tire, tube, rim strip and skewer weighs 7.67 pounds using my digital scale:



    The Specialized Ground Control 26" x 4.6" tires weigh 2.95 pounds:



    The tubes are "Specialized Mountain 26 92-120x559(26x3.8-4.8)", they weigh 1.37 pounds:







    The rim strip weighs 55g and is held in place with velcro. It seems to be nylon weave with some kind of polymer or plastic embedded in it.



    The bare front wheel (no rim strip or skewer) weighs 3 pounds:



    The front 135mm skewer is 70g:



    Finally, this photo shows how the back of the spoke nipples are mounted to the rim with anodized nuts:



    It might take me a bit to figure out how to make these run tubeless.

    If you want I can also post the rear wheel specs, don't have time to do it at the moment, most folks were just interested in the tire and tube weights. Hope you find this helpful.

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    Thanks!

  3. #3
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    wow nuts on nipples!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    wow nuts on nipples!
    lmao!
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  5. #5
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    Here is a double-check of the tube weight. How's 615 grams for a 26x3.8-4.8 tube sound? Bad! Would like to see about 300g lighter.


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    615 grams sounds like you can buy two lightweight Q-tubes and drop 1.5 pounds for $20...

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    If your still have the tire off, what is the casing width bead-to-bead with the tire lying flat?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post
    Here is a double-check of the tube weight. How's 615 grams for a 26x3.8-4.8 tube sound? Bad! Would like to see about 300g lighter.

    Sweet merciful crap! I'm the guy who asked over on FB.
    Buy yourself a couple of Q tubes or Specialized 24 X 2.5 tubes ( yes...24)
    You'll save 1.5 lbs.
    Specialized just beat Surly for heaviest tube!

  9. #9
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    9 1/2" +/-1/8"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post
    9 1/2" +/-1/8"
    Thanks! That's pretty much bang on the size of my BFL. There is hope for fitting one of these in my 170mm frame. I can't wait till they are available aftermarket. Although I'm guessing it won't be this season.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post


    Finally, this photo shows how the back of the spoke nipples are mounted to the rim with anodized nuts:



    It might take me a bit to figure out how to make these run tubeless.

    If you want I can also post the rear wheel specs, don't have time to do it at the moment, most folks were just interested in the tire and tube weights. Hope you find this helpful.
    It's always something. I have my Fatboy coming in tomorrow and I am immediately lacing in a new rear hub for XX1. I wonder what I am gonna have to do to get this new hub running and I also wanted to go tubeless.

  12. #12
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    Anybody know what the deal is with those nipples/nuts?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    It's always something. I have my Fatboy coming in tomorrow and I am immediately lacing in a new rear hub for XX1. I wonder what I am gonna have to do to get this new hub running and I also wanted to go tubeless.
    You only have to swap the stock freehub body for a compatible XD Driver.
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    (Kindernay XIV 14 speed internal gear hub with hydraulic sequential shifters)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Espen W View Post
    You only have to swap the stock freehub body for a compatible XD Driver.
    You would think. I have had much difficulty locating one. Specialized does not offer it and they said it was a Novatech hub. Novatech had no information for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJones View Post
    Anybody know what the deal is with those nipples/nuts?
    I will in a few days. Hopefully its nothing crazy. I am guessing, cause I have never seen anything like this, maybe the nipple has internal threads for the spokes and external for the nut. I'm guessing no actual nipple head, just some straight connector. Someone who has seen this before, please post. Can regular nipples be used?

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    My guess is that the "nuts" are part of the nipples since it seems like a big coincidence to have them both red anodized (and also because having two pieces doesn't really work). Either Specialized wanted the large bases and washers to keep the stresses on the rims down, or they really wanted to get some tension in those spokes...

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    I'll see if I can get a better look tomorrow, but I think RR might be correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RocktonRider View Post
    My guess is that the "nuts" are part of the nipples since it seems like a big coincidence to have them both red anodized (and also because having two pieces doesn't really work). Either Specialized wanted the large bases and washers to keep the stresses on the rims down, or they really wanted to get some tension in those spokes...
    I'm hoping your right. I was thinking this came from comp model that does not have the red nipples, but looking back your right, it is the Expert model and those do have the red visible nipples. And if this is the case, the wheel build will be just as easy or easier than a standard wheel. The thing that made me think two different pieces is the silver (bare metal) that is visible at the center of the nut. Maybe it's bonded in there and that why there is no red anodizing. Tubeless is still another issue.

  19. #19
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    I am sure the "nut" is just the head of the nipple. Very common. Used a lot on rims with hidden nipples. Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways.
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    What do you think about truing them? Do you think that you would true them with a typical spoke wrench or did they design with the nut intending that you true them via the nut?

    I have never seen a wheel with nipple/nut design like this...

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    Quote Originally Posted by skr29er View Post
    What do you think about truing them? Do you think that you would true them with a typical spoke wrench or did they design with the nut intending that you true them via the nut?
    Reading into Logantri's post (Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways), it looks like you can true using either which would be perfect. You can build up the wheel using the nut, making for an easy build up, but you can still true it using a spoke wrench. I am hoping this is the case. I will be finding out in a day or two.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    Reading into Logantri's post (Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways), it looks like you can true using either which would be perfect. You can build up the wheel using the nut, making for an easy build up, but you can still true it using a spoke wrench. I am hoping this is the case. I will be finding out in a day or two.
    Exactly. I assume the hex heads makes machine built wheels go together easier/faster.
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  23. #23
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    I'll be psyched to see your report on setting it up tubeless. A guy on another thread said he was able to set it up with gorilla tape- but his was a comp- I assume they both have these kinds of nipples...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I'll be psyched to see your report on setting it up tubeless. A guy on another thread said he was able to set it up with gorilla tape- but his was a comp- I assume they both have these kinds of nipples...
    see my post on page 2 here On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To)

    The 1/4" closed cell polyethylene foam would work perfect to cover the nut. i'd prob even carve out a spot in the foam for each nut as you wrap it on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    see my post on page 2 here On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To)

    The 1/4" closed cell polyethylene foam would work perfect to cover the nut. i'd prob even carve out a spot in the foam for each nut as you wrap it on.
    Thanks Wadedro. I currently have Holy Rolling Daryls and have done the foam, gorilla tape, and split tube methods. Most recently, I've used the 3M fat tape and no foam with good results. The foam typically gets compressed so much after the initial inflation that it's useless for subsequent mountings, and I've been able to get a Nate, a Husker Du, and a Bud all to seat up just fine by mounting them up with a tube first and just popping one bead. Plus, the Specialized rims don't have that deep center cavity, so I don't think the foam is necessary.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    So I just took my rear fatboy wheel apart. The nipples are standard. Hex head nipples and a nipple washer. That picture makes them look bigger than what they are. So a tubeless install should not be affected by the nipples. Also while I had the rim bare, I weighed it at 767 grams. Not bad.

  27. #27
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    alshead, can you elaborate on your latest method with mounting them up with a tube first. do you air up the tire with a tube in, then break the bead off one side and pull the tube out? thanks

  28. #28
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    Este:

    Yes- basically tape it, put tire on, tube in and inflate- best to let it sit for a while and in warmer temps (not my cold-ass garage). Pop one side, take tube out, put valve stem in, re-seat tire. You can put sauce in then or fill first to set bead. Using the gravity method as in the video helps (basically, inflating with the loose bead side down/ wheel horizontal instead of standing the wheel upright). I still have a lot of leakage the first couple of times after putting sealant in, which happened with foam and, surprisingly, with a split-tube as well, but after airing it up a few times and rolling the sealant into all the leaky spots, it was good to go. Have had it down to 2-3 psi on my Bud without a problem (again, on Holy RD's).

    Only time I lost a seal was when the tire was already down to about 3psi and I put it in my rack (Yakima Holdup) and drove home- putting the hook around the tire with the air that low popped the bead. Got it home and aired it up and it re-seated no problem.

    BPD131: Great news. Any chance you took any pics while you had it apart?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    BPD131: Great news. Any chance you took any pics while you had it apart?
    I took a pic of the rim on the scale, but nothing else. When I rebuilt the wheel with the new hub, I also used butted spokes and alloy nipples. The "comp" version uses brass and straight gauge spokes. So it will be lighter. The hub itself was 30-40 grams lighter, spokes and nipples are almost another 60-80 grams. The wheel will be approximately 1/4 pound lighter. And I am gonna go tubeless.

  30. #30
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    ^What hub? I might rebuild mine (if I ever get the dang thing).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    ^What hub? I might rebuild mine (if I ever get the dang thing).
    I went with the 9 Zero 7. It came with QR front and rear as well as 12mm rear and 15mm front and I got the XX1 freehub for my set so I have complete flexibility for future endeavors.

  32. #32
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    I just set mine up tubeless. It could not have been easier. I bought 4 inch wide tape form Pegasus that someone listed here. I put it on, over lapped a few inches on each side of the valves stem. I then cut excess of edge so it would set in the hookless bead nicely. Inflated with a tube over night at about 20-25 lbs of pressure. Woke up this morning, deflated the tube, one side of bead came off without trying, I tried to make sure the other didn't come off but I don't know if it would matter. I took the tube out of the one bead side and put in a valve stem. I inflated the tire to get beads on again, no problem with that at all. Took out the core and put in sealant of choice, installed the core and inflated. There was one spot at the weld that had some sealant visible, but no problem. Also the core that I used (a Specialized valve stem from my other wheel set, which I do not like) had a little sealant also. I tightened the core down and viola, it works perfectly. OK, now for the caveat, I use a compressor for air ups. I also tried orange seal for the first time and it worked fine, but I do not get a lot of punctures, so it's mainly for sealing tire and minor wheel imperfections. I used way too much sealant, 12 oz. I could get away with 8 easily, I think. I do not know about weight because I was so engrossed in getting it done, I forgot. Gonna go ride the for an hour or so and make sure the seal stays. Any questions feel free to pm or post.

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    Bpd131, looking forward to your tubeless ride report. I'm picking mine up tomorrow and am thinking of converting to tubeless this weekend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    I just set mine up tubeless. It could not have been easier. ...
    Thanks for the info. When (if) I get mine, I'll likely follow this same process. Just to confirm, this is with the ground control tires? Also, did you leave the fatboy rim strip on below the tape?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonlikesbikes View Post
    Thanks for the info. When (if) I get mine, I'll likely follow this same process. Just to confirm, this is with the ground control tires? Also, did you leave the fatboy rim strip on below the tape?
    Yes Ground Control Tires. Yes I left the rim strip in there. I guess you don't have to but that would leave the sticky side of the tape collecting dirt in the rim cut outs.

  36. #36
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    OK, so the ride report is as such. First, I have none, ZERO, fatbiking experience.This is my first fat bike build and ride. As far as tubeless goes, it went well as described in previous post. I kept both tires at 8 PSI, but that is off my pump and I'm betting those readings are not that accurate with that low of a pressure. But, my front is not tubeless yet and I could definitely tell the difference between the wheels. There was only a dusting of snow on the ground and it was frozen underneath. The tires were not soft enough to eat up all the roots and rocks we have in CT, so it was still a rough ride, especially with the front not being tubeless yet. I am going out this weekend and I will try a lower pressure. I will find my old motocross air gauge for an accurate psi measurement. It appears to have held the air for the ride, but tomorrow morning will really show if that's true. Once I get the parts for the front rebuild, that one will also be tubeless. I agree with most other people the front end is too low on these fatboy's and I will be getting hi-rise bars very soon. But keep in mind, all my bikes are built like this, again this is my MX background keeping me in the position.

  37. #37
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    For those wanting to know, my tubeless conversion held air perfectly. But on another note, it sounds like the Orange Seal slushed up a little, not frozen, just little bits of slush in the tire. When I spun the tire, I thought I heard brake rub, but I took a closer look/listen and I hear it in the tire. Hope fully this will not be a problem.

    We got 2 more inches of snow. I was not planning to ride today, but I guess I will now.

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    More verification and relevant picts and weights

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0732.jpg
    Just Tube
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0733.jpg
    Wheel, cassette, rotor, and skewer (pen zeroed out)
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0734.jpg
    wheel and rotor only (pen zeroed out)
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0738.jpg
    just tire
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0739.jpg
    rim strip
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0742.jpg
    outside to outside width
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0743.jpg
    outside to outside width

  39. #39
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Another tubeless success story. Set them up with 2.88 gorilla tape. 2 layers per wheel to cover the whole rim. I had to use an air compressor to seat them. Added 8oz of Stan's through the valve stem, aired up to 15 psi, spun them for a few minutes while shaking and turning them. I saw a little Stan's at the weld, and one 2" section of the bead. Let them sit over night and zero loss of pressure this morning.

  40. #40
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    gcohen, bpd131 and anyone else who has gone tubeless on their FatBoy how far out on the rim did you take your tape? Did you leave in the original rim strip also? What tubeless stem did you use?

    Just trying to get a feel for what methods, tapes, valves, etc. have worked...

    I run tubeless on all my other MTB's but had not necessarily planned to do so on my FatBoy. However since swapping out the boat anchor tubes that came stock with some much lighter Michelin 2.5-2.8 tubes I had two puncture flats in three rides. Flat repairs on the trail with the fat tires is not fun! Considered going back to the heavy but much burlier stock tubes but I really could tell a big difference with the lighter tubes. So now I am thinking of going tubeless.

    The GC tires seem very loose on the Roval rims in fact they almost fall off the rims and with no bead hook at all i had wondered about the success of running tubeless. Are you having good success? Do you have a lot of time running them tubeless yet? Any reason to not go tubeless?

  41. #41
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    I ran the tape to the hookless bead edge and up higher a little. I used a 4in leading edge tape from Pegasus Automotive that someone else posted somewhere in the fatbike tubeless section, over the standard rim striip, and then trimmed the tape along the bead. I also used the tire/tube combo overnight to make sure everything was stuck down good. The specialized rim does not have a tubeless lead in section where the tire would "pop" in to place, but I have not had any problems at 5-6 psi with burping or anything else. The tape weighs about 100-120 grams and I used a total of 16oz of Orange Seal for both wheels for my set up. But You DO NOT NEED that much sealant, the tires seal almost without sealant.

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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I ran 2.88 gorilla tape to the bead edge. I did not put tape up the hookless rim wall. If you use the gorilla tape, you will need two strips to cover edge to edge. The stock rim strip stays in place and the tape goes over it. I used Stan's tubeless valve stems. I've ridden 3 times since converting and haven't put a pump to either tire. I'm running 6/7 psi.

  43. #43
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    I got my Fatboy Thursday night, took it for a spin on Saturday morning and set it up tubeless Saturday night. I used the 2 strips of Gorilla Tape and 8 oz of Stan's in each wheel. Total weight savings was exactly 1lb. My comp, with XT pedals, weighs 31lbs 14oz, and with the tubeless setup it now weights 30lbs 14oz.

    I ran it at 5 psi (I weigh 180lbs) and it worked great, I got better traction than the day before with tubes at 7 psi.
    Last edited by chriscycles; 02-11-2014 at 12:34 PM.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by chriscycles View Post
    I got my Fatboy Thursday night, took it for a spin on Saturday morning and set it up tubeless Saturday night. I used the 2 strips of Gorilla Tape and 8 oz of Stan's in each wheel. Total weight savings was exactly 1lb. My comp, with XT pedals, weighs 31lbs 14oz, and with the tubeless setup it now weights 30lbs 14oz.

    I ran it at 5 psi (I weight 180lbs) and it worked great, I got better traction than the day before with tubes at 7 psi.
    Almost exactly my experience too! Same weight difference, savings, final weight, and results!

  45. #45
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    0.63 pounds per wheel

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-wheelweight.jpg

    My experience is in line with others'; stock weight was 7.88# for complete front wheel/tire/tube/rim strip/rotor/skewer; dropped to 7.25 eliminating the rim strip, using 1.88 digital camo Duck tape backed by packing tape, 3 rounds of Gorilla tape 1.88, and 6 oz of Stan's.

    Airtight without sealant. I will cross-post in tubeless Tuesday.

    Total weight loss of 1.3#; total bike weight is now 29.6# without pedals. The only other change from stock is x7 triggers and aftermarket lockon grips in place of the twisties.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    For those wanting to know, my tubeless conversion held air perfectly. But on another note, it sounds like the Orange Seal slushed up a little, not frozen, just little bits of slush in the tire. When I spun the tire, I thought I heard brake rub, but I took a closer look/listen and I hear it in the tire. Hope fully this will not be a problem.

    We got 2 more inches of snow. I was not planning to ride today, but I guess I will now.
    Orange was showing a subzero version of it's sealant at Frostbike, keep an eye out for it. It should be showing up soon.

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    Good to know. Thanks

  48. #48
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    Bike Source on S Colorado, Denver has 2 available on the showroom floor. 1 green and 1 Expert, not sure on the sizes.

  49. #49
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    Just converted my wheels to tubeless. Saving 400 grams on each wheel. I put 85g of tape, 10g for a valve and 100g of Stan's. It's about one pound per wheel !

  50. #50
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    For those that had their tires off, is the 75mm rim strip going to be too wide or should I get the 64mm strips? I have orange 75mm to put in if it wirll work fine.

    Bob

  51. #51
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    FatBoy/Surly Rim Strip

    For those that had their tires off, is the 75mm rim strip going to be too wide or should I get the 64mm strips? I have orange 75mm to put in if it will work fine.

    Bob

  52. #52
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    The rim strip is just right and can't be less wide because the nipples nuts won't be covered.

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    Ok got that part, thanks. Not having taken mine apart yet I dont know what the stock size is to determine if the 75mm strip is larger or smaller.

    Bob

  54. #54
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    I tried to get mine tubless but how on earth do you get air in the tire with so much clearance between the GC tire and rim? It is so impossible for me...

  55. #55
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    You have to push the bead onto the seat at least a little to start the sealing process. You can put a strap around the tire to help, but for me it took massaging the top of the tire to push the bead outwards. Once you get the bead at least touching the seat you can get it to start taking air and they will settle in (I doubt you will get it aired up without a compressor). Even after I got air in and up to 20psi, I had to bounce the tire and continue to push on the tire to get the seat to migrate all the way out to the edge.

    All that said, I couldn't get the tire to hold air, I could get the tire aired up, but it was flat within an hour or so. I think I'm losing air through the seam. I had to put a tube in before I got to troubleshoot it because I need to get on a ride, I will get it!

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by reig3 View Post
    Ok got that part, thanks. Not having taken mine apart yet I dont know what the stock size is to determine if the 75mm strip is larger or smaller.

    Bob
    Air up with a tube, remove tube leaving one bead seated, insert valve, air up with compressor seated bead up, deflate, add sealant through valve core, reinflate. Carry a tube when riding, use it if you flat, and don't worry about all that foam garbage.

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    Air compressor to seat beads is very helpful. I used 4" wide tape cut edge to edge to avoid seam issues.

  58. #58
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    I taped up my front rim with two strips of tape, it wouldn't hold air for more than an hour. I had a ride to go to so I dropped a tube in and a week later I pulled it apart to see what went wrong. I found that the Gorilla tape wasn't adhering to the rim at all. I don't know if I got a bad roll of tape or what but it pulled off so easily and was obviously not airtight. I cleaned everything up, roughed up the paint on the inside of the rim and tried again, same result.

    I had an old split tube liner laying around I put that in and aired up with no problems. The bead popped into the seat with a satisfying snap at 20psi.

    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by reig3 View Post
    Ok got that part, thanks. Not having taken mine apart yet I dont know what the stock size is to determine if the 75mm strip is larger or smaller.

    Looks like the stock rim strip is 2" wide which translates to roughly 51mm. Based off that, I would probably use the 64mm. Which size did you end up using and how did it work out?

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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I think I got the 75mm thinking that the rim was 90mm and the 64 might be smaller since it's for 82mm rims. I am at work and don't recall. I haven't done it yet so I can't say if I got the right size. I was going to try for this week.

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    Bob,

    Let me know how the 75mm works out for you. I was thinking about changing mine out as well. I hear you on rim width, it seems that the Specialized rim strip sits in the center "groove" or "valley" of the actual wheel which is approx 2". I've never used Surly rim strips so I don't know if there is any stretch factor. I do know that using a non stretching material such as ribbon causes all kinds of headaches if wider that 2.5" (in terms of wrinkles and getting it flush).

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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I figured worst case scenario I cut cut it down to size but not add to it if it was too small.
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I was thinking the same thing.

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    I have some additional tubeless information for everyone. I was lucky enough to not the issues JIsch had with his set up. I used the 4" wide Pegasus Auto leading edge tape edge to edge, trimming it in the corner. Pressed it in by using a tube at 25 psi in warm environment for a day. Removed the tube from one side leaving the bead on the other, put in sealant (Orange Seal in my case), reinflated and it has held ever since with zero issues. This is old news for anyone who saw other posts. The better news is I was riding with about 8 PSI originally and lowered as necessary. Then in the NE we got a lot of snow all at once. So I lowered it significantly to be able to ride in this snow. The problem is I had no gage that could accurately tell me the pressure I was using. I just rode to feel

    Well I just got the presta valve Meister Accu-gage for 0-15 psi. I checked my rear and it was a hair over the 3PSI mark, and the front was a hair under the 3PSI mark. Here is even better news, I rode last weekend in Bluff Point which was completely dry and all dirt. I rode exactly like I ride any other bike, including jumps. I had ZERO issues with peeling the tire bead off the bead seat, not one burp and no leaking. Though I did have the rims making contact with the ground occasionally, but not enough to damage or leave marks. That is the worst case scenario, I believe, for low pressure fat riding. Now, all that said, don't ride in dry weather with that pressure, the steering takes you where it wants to go, not necessarily where you want to go, but that made it fun and a challenge of a different kind.

    Before we had snow I got out on the Fat boy and I think a good pressure for dirt was bout 6-7 to quell the effects of the steering, but that was from a gage that might not have been all that accurate.

  65. #65
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    Just a point of interest. Went riding with my mate who has a Moony with BFL's.
    The GC definitely looked a bit wider. I was going to take a photo next to each other, but got distracted with riding

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    The 75mm Surly strip fit fine with no trimming. Rode it Saturday with no issues. Only did the front but will do the rear this week also.

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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Good to know. I was wondering how it turned out.

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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I'm confused. Are people using the surly rim strip to set up tubeless? Without tape?


    There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.
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    While I can't confirm this based on my failed attempts - I think for it to work the tape has to go up the side of the rim so that the tire bead pinches it, the Gorilla tape I have isn't wide enough. With wider tape the sealant can't work its way under the tape and dissolve the stick (or maybe its just the sticky stuff on Gorilla tape that is prone to contamination).

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    I'm going on 3 months set up tubeless with gorilla tape and zero issues. I've ridden snow, mud, dirt, rocks without a problem. I haven't ridden the fatboy in a few weeks and checked the tires yesterday and they haven't lost any air. I did not run the tape up the side wall of the rim.

  71. #71
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    I must have gotten bad rolls of tape or something. I tried two strips of tape overlapped in the middle, and up the side, and one strip of wider tape that covered all the holes, but didn't make it up the side. In both cases the sealant eventually got under the tape. In the double strip it was almost instantaneous, with the wider tape it took overnight before losing air. In both cases I brought the rims inside and warmed them up before starting.

    In both cases when I pulled the old tape off (in disgust) it came off like a kids sticker comes off the shiny sheet - the adhesion was not good. I cleaned the rims with alcohol each time.

  72. #72
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    Got to hop on a friends fat boy expert while on a 24 mile off-road fatty ride on Sunday. Definitely lighter than my charge and fit nearly as well in size large. But man no man what a difference between an alu frame and my steel frame. At the same air pressure the charge is way more buttery smooth with my v8's compared to the fatboy with gc's. Felt like the fatboy has a shorter wheel base and steeper front end a as well. Very light for the price.

    rog

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    I'm not sure why some have success and others don't. The only thing you mentioned that I definitely did not do was clean with alcohol.

  74. #74
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    I only wiped it with alcohol after it failed on the first attempt. The adhesion was ridiculously bad. I figured I'd have a terrible time getting the tape off the rim or at least off the rim strip, it pulled off so easily. I store the tape outside, maybe the cold has affected its adhesion - I brought the tape inside well before starting, so I know it was heated up when I did it.

    Oh well, glad it works for some people and I'm perfectly happy with my split tube set up!

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    But man no man what a difference between an alu frame and my steel frame. At the same air pressure the charge is way more buttery smooth with my v8's compared to the fatboy with gc's.
    I often wondered if you could feel the difference in frame materials on a fat bike. I figured with that much bounce you wouldn't be able to feel any aluminum harshness or steel springy-ness. Interesting. V8s are definitely going to have lower rolling resistance than GCs

  76. #76
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    It was only a color change and which width to get to replace the white strip that was on my Fat Boy

    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I'm confused. Are people using the surly rim strip to set up tubeless? Without tape?


    There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by reig3 View Post
    It was only a color change and which width to get to replace the white strip that was on my Fat Boy
    Cool- thanks. And did you figure out which width works best?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    I went with the 75MM wide and no you cant use orange now <g>

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I often wondered if you could feel the difference in frame materials on a fat bike. I figured with that much bounce you wouldn't be able to feel any aluminum harshness or steel springy-ness. Interesting. V8s are definitely going to have lower rolling resistance than GCs
    i wouldn't have thought that it would be noticeable, but it really is.

    mmmmmm, v8 season

    rog

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    I put these tires to the test yesterday and decided that ...they rock! beat them silly in the dirt, mud, broken and weathered granite gardens. Climbed EVERYTHING with endless traction and descended with near reckless abandon.

    Who cares what they weigh!

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I put these tires to the test yesterday and decided that ...they rock! beat them silly in the dirt, mud, broken and weathered granite gardens. Climbed EVERYTHING with endless traction and descended with near reckless abandon.

    Who cares what they weigh!
    GO E-MAN!!!!

    rog

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    I just finished converting my fatboy to tubeless and it couldn't have been easier. I read all these comments and didn't experience any of these problems. I purchased 2 surly orange 75mm rim strips, which by the way are 40 grams heavier for both, than the specialized rim strips, but I didn't like the white with my green frame so they had to go! Then I purchased Orangeseal's fat bike kit with subzero sealant and 75mm tape. After removing the specialized rim strip and installing the surly 75mm strip (required some stretching to install which gave it a nice tight fit). Then after thoroughly cleaning the rim with alcohol and making sure it was dry, I wrapped the orange seal rim tape while pulling it tightly, first wrapping one layer to the edge of the rim( not the upright bead portion, just to where the rim turns up perpendicular at the edge.) Then a second layer on the opposite side. Just be sure you cover the little gas venting holes they punch in the rim for the welding of the rim. The tape doesn't cover the holes by very much, but don't worry it will seal. I wrapped in different directions so the tape would pull on itself and stay tight.You will get a lot of wrinkling in the middle over the rim strip, but it doesn't show through the rim strip once is all pushed down with the tube. Punch out the valve hole with a pointed punch, preferably heated so it melts the tape as you push it through. Reinstall the original tube and tire and reinflate to 20 psi. Let it sit overnight. It will completely push the orange seal tape into the cracks and crevises and will seal the first time. After sitting overnight, remove the valve core, and be very careful and only remove one side of the bead of the tire to remove the tube. Be gentle, the other bead doesn't attach very tightly to the rim. Now install the orange seal valve stem, and lay the rim with tire now installed either on top of a five gallon bucket, with the loose bead down. This is very important, if you don't put the loose bead down, you will never get the bead to seat. The weight and flex of the tire will allow the loose bead to hang down against the side of the rim. This will allow you to set the bead with a hand pump almost effortlessly. The first few pumps need to be done quickly at a fevered pitch until you don't here any air leaking out which should be very quickly. I had no problems doing both tires this way. pump them up to 20 psi to get the loose bead to seat. Now this part can be tricky. A helper might be needed but I did by myself with no problem. While supporting the tire and rim, remove the valve core of the orange seal stem. don't let the rim weight rest on the tire during this step, hold it by the spokes in the air while you install 4 oz. of orangeseal subzero formula. If you don't expect cold temps, you can use the regular orangeseal. Reinstall the stem holding the threaded part because as the core starts to get tight, the stem will spin in the rim, so hold it while you tighten the core. After you install sealant gently lay the rim back on the bucket with the side that had the loose bead down, and hook up the pump and air it up again in the same manner . You may see a little sealant around stem or seam in rim but thats ok. Pump up to 20 psi and move the tire back and forth while holding the tire rim combo horizontal and move the tire rim around like a coin when it self levels when dropped on a table. Then install rim and spin tire back and forth in both directions and go for ride, your done! The orange seal rim is no where near the weight of duct tape, and it is designed to be used with sealant. The thin crackly feeling of the tape is deceiving. Once you wrap the rim and inflate the tube overnight, that tape sticks like crazy. My tubes weighed 530 grams each, not 600+ like some of the guys had on their bikes, but losing 1060 grams in tube, adding 40 grams in rim strips, and 55 grams of sealant, comes out to 2.12 lbs reduction in rolling mass! Huge difference when I went out for a ride. Well worth it. Rode the local trails here with some small jumps and a few 2 to 3 foot drops, and roots mammy, with no issues at all. No loss of air and I run around 8 psi. Best mod so far to my fatty!

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    awesome keep us updated....have you rode any rutted trails yet? Our trails are a bit rough here.....if this works for you I want to consider it. Any pics of new tape installed? I would like to red surly rim strips if possible. Why did you not run stans?

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    Why not Stans.

    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    awesome keep us updated....have you rode any rutted trails yet? Our trails are a bit rough here.....if this works for you I want to consider it. Any pics of new tape installed? I would like to red surly rim strips if possible. Why did you not run stans?
    Orange seal makes a ready made kit, and I couldn't find that in Stans, supposedly Fatback sells it but I couldn't find it, plus they are in Alaska, I'm in Fl. didn't want to wait 2 weeks for it. Orange seal also makes a subzero sealant that won't freeze in 0 temps. I do a couple trips a year to Alaska and Montana, and it gets way down there in Alaska! There's tons of ruts and roots here in Florida, muck, down tree limbs on the trail all the time. I didn't take any pics of the tape on my bike, but I'm doing one this weekend for a buddy, and i'll snap some pics and post them

  85. #85
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    Re: Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Slime Pro is good to -35 F.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4wdoutfitters View Post
    Orange seal makes a ready made kit, and I couldn't find that in Stans, supposedly Fatback sells it but I couldn't find it, plus they are in Alaska, I'm in Fl. didn't want to wait 2 weeks for it. Orange seal also makes a subzero sealant that won't freeze in 0 temps. I do a couple trips a year to Alaska and Montana, and it gets way down there in Alaska! There's tons of ruts and roots here in Florida, muck, down tree limbs on the trail all the time. I didn't take any pics of the tape on my bike, but I'm doing one this weekend for a buddy, and i'll snap some pics and post them
    anymore updates on this? which valvestems did you use?

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    I used orange seal's stems. I did replace the tape with clear gorilla tape. Sticks much better! The sealer eventually seeped under the orange seal tape.
    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    anymore updates on this? which valvestems did you use?

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    The tubes coming in Fatboys seem to vary greatly.... my front tube weighed 415g on my new Fatboy (orange/blue) I think tonight I will make an attempt at tubeless gorilla tape, bontrager valve stems and stan's. I see stan's is rating their sealant to -30F/-34C

    Attachment 929295

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    The Gorilla tape work for a time but after somes days, the stan penetrate between the tape layer and make leak. I search for larger tape.

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    WHOA! Just setup my front wheel tubeless and damn what a weight savings. I used gorilla tape, 4 ounces of Stan's and a Bontrager valve stem. Here's the before and after wheel weights.

    Attachment 929385

    Attachment 929386

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    or you coulda just gone with a q-lite tube and saved about the same amount of weight.

    rog

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    sorry rog, not possible to save 860g just by swapping tubes.

  93. #93
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    The bike feels so different to pick-up after the tubes have gone

    Rides better too of course. My ride was fun today - tyres gripping so much making me smile

    My Gorilla set-up is holding fine after 2 weeks

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    Quote Originally Posted by crohnsy View Post
    sorry rog, not possible to save 860g just by swapping tubes.
    sorry, but you added weight back with stanz and tape, q-lite tubes are 250ish grams a piece. so that cuts your 860 down to 500g. then you add stanz front and rear and the difference is now only about 270g, then you add gorilla tape and yer under 200g difference..............

    rog

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    Quote Originally Posted by crohnsy View Post
    WHOA! Just setup my front wheel tubeless and damn what a weight savings. I used gorilla tape, 4 ounces of Stan's and a Bontrager valve stem.
    ya 3.49lb down to 3.06.

    seeing as how you dropped less than a 1/2 pound per wheel going tubeless, i'd say the q-lites may be about even in the end. and no mess or fussing.

    sorry, guy

    rog

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    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    ya 3.49lb down to 3.06.

    seeing as how you dropped less than a 1/2 pound per wheel going tubeless, i'd say the q-lites may be about even in the end. and no mess or fussing.

    sorry, guy

    rog
    For me the biggest reason to go tubeless is flat reduction, since I like to go bushwhacking on my fatbike. Last group ride we did everyone who wasn't tubeless ended up flat. You may be right that you will end up at the same weight with lightweight tubes as you will with tubeless, but you don't have the flat reduction or ride quality improvement that comes with tubeless.

    I am taking delivery of my fatboy at the end of this month at which point I'll be converting to tubeless and Bud/Lou. I'll make sure to get weights at each stage. I'll be using 4" Pegasus tape for the first time, in the past (Moonlander and Krampus) I've used Gorilla Tape.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4wdoutfitters View Post
    I just finished converting my fatboy to tubeless and it couldn't have been easier. I read all these comments and didn't experience any of these problems. I purchased 2 surly orange 75mm rim strips, which by the way are 40 grams heavier for both, than the specialized rim strips, but I didn't like the white with my green frame so they had to go! Then I purchased Orangeseal's fat bike kit with subzero sealant and 75mm tape. After removing the specialized rim strip and installing the surly 75mm strip (required some stretching to install which gave it a nice tight fit). Then after thoroughly cleaning the rim with alcohol and making sure it was dry, I wrapped the orange seal rim tape while pulling it tightly, first wrapping one layer to the edge of the rim( not the upright bead portion, just to where the rim turns up perpendicular at the edge.) Then a second layer on the opposite side. Just be sure you cover the little gas venting holes they punch in the rim for the welding of the rim. The tape doesn't cover the holes by very much, but don't worry it will seal. I wrapped in different directions so the tape would pull on itself and stay tight.You will get a lot of wrinkling in the middle over the rim strip, but it doesn't show through the rim strip once is all pushed down with the tube. Punch out the valve hole with a pointed punch, preferably heated so it melts the tape as you push it through. Reinstall the original tube and tire and reinflate to 20 psi. Let it sit overnight. It will completely push the orange seal tape into the cracks and crevises and will seal the first time. After sitting overnight, remove the valve core, and be very careful and only remove one side of the bead of the tire to remove the tube. Be gentle, the other bead doesn't attach very tightly to the rim. Now install the orange seal valve stem, and lay the rim with tire now installed either on top of a five gallon bucket, with the loose bead down. This is very important, if you don't put the loose bead down, you will never get the bead to seat. The weight and flex of the tire will allow the loose bead to hang down against the side of the rim. This will allow you to set the bead with a hand pump almost effortlessly. The first few pumps need to be done quickly at a fevered pitch until you don't here any air leaking out which should be very quickly. I had no problems doing both tires this way. pump them up to 20 psi to get the loose bead to seat. Now this part can be tricky. A helper might be needed but I did by myself with no problem. While supporting the tire and rim, remove the valve core of the orange seal stem. don't let the rim weight rest on the tire during this step, hold it by the spokes in the air while you install 4 oz. of orangeseal subzero formula. If you don't expect cold temps, you can use the regular orangeseal. Reinstall the stem holding the threaded part because as the core starts to get tight, the stem will spin in the rim, so hold it while you tighten the core. After you install sealant gently lay the rim back on the bucket with the side that had the loose bead down, and hook up the pump and air it up again in the same manner . You may see a little sealant around stem or seam in rim but thats ok. Pump up to 20 psi and move the tire back and forth while holding the tire rim combo horizontal and move the tire rim around like a coin when it self levels when dropped on a table. Then install rim and spin tire back and forth in both directions and go for ride, your done! The orange seal rim is no where near the weight of duct tape, and it is designed to be used with sealant. The thin crackly feeling of the tape is deceiving. Once you wrap the rim and inflate the tube overnight, that tape sticks like crazy. My tubes weighed 530 grams each, not 600+ like some of the guys had on their bikes, but losing 1060 grams in tube, adding 40 grams in rim strips, and 55 grams of sealant, comes out to 2.12 lbs reduction in rolling mass! Huge difference when I went out for a ride. Well worth it. Rode the local trails here with some small jumps and a few 2 to 3 foot drops, and roots mammy, with no issues at all. No loss of air and I run around 8 psi. Best mod so far to my fatty!
    Thank you for taking the time to post this!!!

  98. #98
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    I read here the rims weight 767gr so i think the heaviest weight are on the hubs. Anybody know the weight of the hubs? i,m thinng on installin tune hubs on the stock wheels of the fatboy.
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Thanks Wadedro. I currently have Holy Rolling Daryls and have done the foam, gorilla tape, and split tube methods. Most recently, I've used the 3M fat tape and no foam with good results. The foam typically gets compressed so much after the initial inflation that it's useless for subsequent mountings, and I've been able to get a Nate, a Husker Du, and a Bud all to seat up just fine by mounting them up with a tube first and just popping one bead. Plus, the Specialized rims don't have that deep center cavity, so I don't think the foam is necessary.
    Why did you go away from the split tube method?

  100. #100
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    Random ?
    With the Spec Sl 26 Wheelset what hubs are they using and what bushings are available with this wheelset. IE 15mm thru, 12mm rear... Hopefully they are using a hub that accepts DT bushings. Was looking at buying the wheelset just want to make sure it can meet the wider back end and thru axle front.
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