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  1. #1
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I just took delivery of my Fat Boy Expert two days ago, first ride was yesterday. I thought I'd post some wheel/tire/tube weight info for y'all.

    The front wheel complete with tire, tube, rim strip and skewer weighs 7.67 pounds using my digital scale:



    The Specialized Ground Control 26" x 4.6" tires weigh 2.95 pounds:



    The tubes are "Specialized Mountain 26 92-120x559(26x3.8-4.8)", they weigh 1.37 pounds:







    The rim strip weighs 55g and is held in place with velcro. It seems to be nylon weave with some kind of polymer or plastic embedded in it.



    The bare front wheel (no rim strip or skewer) weighs 3 pounds:



    The front 135mm skewer is 70g:



    Finally, this photo shows how the back of the spoke nipples are mounted to the rim with anodized nuts:



    It might take me a bit to figure out how to make these run tubeless.

    If you want I can also post the rear wheel specs, don't have time to do it at the moment, most folks were just interested in the tire and tube weights. Hope you find this helpful.

  2. #2
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    Thanks!

  3. #3
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    wow nuts on nipples!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    wow nuts on nipples!
    lmao!
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  5. #5
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    Here is a double-check of the tube weight. How's 615 grams for a 26x3.8-4.8 tube sound? Bad! Would like to see about 300g lighter.


  6. #6
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    615 grams sounds like you can buy two lightweight Q-tubes and drop 1.5 pounds for $20...

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    If your still have the tire off, what is the casing width bead-to-bead with the tire lying flat?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post
    Here is a double-check of the tube weight. How's 615 grams for a 26x3.8-4.8 tube sound? Bad! Would like to see about 300g lighter.

    Sweet merciful crap! I'm the guy who asked over on FB.
    Buy yourself a couple of Q tubes or Specialized 24 X 2.5 tubes ( yes...24)
    You'll save 1.5 lbs.
    Specialized just beat Surly for heaviest tube!

  9. #9
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    9 1/2" +/-1/8"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post
    9 1/2" +/-1/8"
    Thanks! That's pretty much bang on the size of my BFL. There is hope for fitting one of these in my 170mm frame. I can't wait till they are available aftermarket. Although I'm guessing it won't be this season.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post


    Finally, this photo shows how the back of the spoke nipples are mounted to the rim with anodized nuts:



    It might take me a bit to figure out how to make these run tubeless.

    If you want I can also post the rear wheel specs, don't have time to do it at the moment, most folks were just interested in the tire and tube weights. Hope you find this helpful.
    It's always something. I have my Fatboy coming in tomorrow and I am immediately lacing in a new rear hub for XX1. I wonder what I am gonna have to do to get this new hub running and I also wanted to go tubeless.

  12. #12
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    Anybody know what the deal is with those nipples/nuts?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    It's always something. I have my Fatboy coming in tomorrow and I am immediately lacing in a new rear hub for XX1. I wonder what I am gonna have to do to get this new hub running and I also wanted to go tubeless.
    You only have to swap the stock freehub body for a compatible XD Driver.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Espen W View Post
    You only have to swap the stock freehub body for a compatible XD Driver.
    You would think. I have had much difficulty locating one. Specialized does not offer it and they said it was a Novatech hub. Novatech had no information for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJones View Post
    Anybody know what the deal is with those nipples/nuts?
    I will in a few days. Hopefully its nothing crazy. I am guessing, cause I have never seen anything like this, maybe the nipple has internal threads for the spokes and external for the nut. I'm guessing no actual nipple head, just some straight connector. Someone who has seen this before, please post. Can regular nipples be used?

  16. #16
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    My guess is that the "nuts" are part of the nipples since it seems like a big coincidence to have them both red anodized (and also because having two pieces doesn't really work). Either Specialized wanted the large bases and washers to keep the stresses on the rims down, or they really wanted to get some tension in those spokes...

  17. #17
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    I'll see if I can get a better look tomorrow, but I think RR might be correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RocktonRider View Post
    My guess is that the "nuts" are part of the nipples since it seems like a big coincidence to have them both red anodized (and also because having two pieces doesn't really work). Either Specialized wanted the large bases and washers to keep the stresses on the rims down, or they really wanted to get some tension in those spokes...
    I'm hoping your right. I was thinking this came from comp model that does not have the red nipples, but looking back your right, it is the Expert model and those do have the red visible nipples. And if this is the case, the wheel build will be just as easy or easier than a standard wheel. The thing that made me think two different pieces is the silver (bare metal) that is visible at the center of the nut. Maybe it's bonded in there and that why there is no red anodizing. Tubeless is still another issue.

  19. #19
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    I am sure the "nut" is just the head of the nipple. Very common. Used a lot on rims with hidden nipples. Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways.
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    What do you think about truing them? Do you think that you would true them with a typical spoke wrench or did they design with the nut intending that you true them via the nut?

    I have never seen a wheel with nipple/nut design like this...

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    Quote Originally Posted by skr29er View Post
    What do you think about truing them? Do you think that you would true them with a typical spoke wrench or did they design with the nut intending that you true them via the nut?
    Reading into Logantri's post (Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways), it looks like you can true using either which would be perfect. You can build up the wheel using the nut, making for an easy build up, but you can still true it using a spoke wrench. I am hoping this is the case. I will be finding out in a day or two.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    Reading into Logantri's post (Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways), it looks like you can true using either which would be perfect. You can build up the wheel using the nut, making for an easy build up, but you can still true it using a spoke wrench. I am hoping this is the case. I will be finding out in a day or two.
    Exactly. I assume the hex heads makes machine built wheels go together easier/faster.
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  23. #23
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    I'll be psyched to see your report on setting it up tubeless. A guy on another thread said he was able to set it up with gorilla tape- but his was a comp- I assume they both have these kinds of nipples...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I'll be psyched to see your report on setting it up tubeless. A guy on another thread said he was able to set it up with gorilla tape- but his was a comp- I assume they both have these kinds of nipples...
    see my post on page 2 here On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To)

    The 1/4" closed cell polyethylene foam would work perfect to cover the nut. i'd prob even carve out a spot in the foam for each nut as you wrap it on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    see my post on page 2 here On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To)

    The 1/4" closed cell polyethylene foam would work perfect to cover the nut. i'd prob even carve out a spot in the foam for each nut as you wrap it on.
    Thanks Wadedro. I currently have Holy Rolling Daryls and have done the foam, gorilla tape, and split tube methods. Most recently, I've used the 3M fat tape and no foam with good results. The foam typically gets compressed so much after the initial inflation that it's useless for subsequent mountings, and I've been able to get a Nate, a Husker Du, and a Bud all to seat up just fine by mounting them up with a tube first and just popping one bead. Plus, the Specialized rims don't have that deep center cavity, so I don't think the foam is necessary.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

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