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  1. #1
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I just took delivery of my Fat Boy Expert two days ago, first ride was yesterday. I thought I'd post some wheel/tire/tube weight info for y'all.

    The front wheel complete with tire, tube, rim strip and skewer weighs 7.67 pounds using my digital scale:



    The Specialized Ground Control 26" x 4.6" tires weigh 2.95 pounds:



    The tubes are "Specialized Mountain 26 92-120x559(26x3.8-4.8)", they weigh 1.37 pounds:







    The rim strip weighs 55g and is held in place with velcro. It seems to be nylon weave with some kind of polymer or plastic embedded in it.



    The bare front wheel (no rim strip or skewer) weighs 3 pounds:



    The front 135mm skewer is 70g:



    Finally, this photo shows how the back of the spoke nipples are mounted to the rim with anodized nuts:



    It might take me a bit to figure out how to make these run tubeless.

    If you want I can also post the rear wheel specs, don't have time to do it at the moment, most folks were just interested in the tire and tube weights. Hope you find this helpful.

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    Thanks!

  3. #3
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    wow nuts on nipples!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    wow nuts on nipples!
    lmao!
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  5. #5
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    Here is a double-check of the tube weight. How's 615 grams for a 26x3.8-4.8 tube sound? Bad! Would like to see about 300g lighter.


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    615 grams sounds like you can buy two lightweight Q-tubes and drop 1.5 pounds for $20...

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    If your still have the tire off, what is the casing width bead-to-bead with the tire lying flat?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post
    Here is a double-check of the tube weight. How's 615 grams for a 26x3.8-4.8 tube sound? Bad! Would like to see about 300g lighter.

    Sweet merciful crap! I'm the guy who asked over on FB.
    Buy yourself a couple of Q tubes or Specialized 24 X 2.5 tubes ( yes...24)
    You'll save 1.5 lbs.
    Specialized just beat Surly for heaviest tube!

  9. #9
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    9 1/2" +/-1/8"

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post
    9 1/2" +/-1/8"
    Thanks! That's pretty much bang on the size of my BFL. There is hope for fitting one of these in my 170mm frame. I can't wait till they are available aftermarket. Although I'm guessing it won't be this season.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lu-Max View Post


    Finally, this photo shows how the back of the spoke nipples are mounted to the rim with anodized nuts:



    It might take me a bit to figure out how to make these run tubeless.

    If you want I can also post the rear wheel specs, don't have time to do it at the moment, most folks were just interested in the tire and tube weights. Hope you find this helpful.
    It's always something. I have my Fatboy coming in tomorrow and I am immediately lacing in a new rear hub for XX1. I wonder what I am gonna have to do to get this new hub running and I also wanted to go tubeless.

  12. #12
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    Anybody know what the deal is with those nipples/nuts?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    It's always something. I have my Fatboy coming in tomorrow and I am immediately lacing in a new rear hub for XX1. I wonder what I am gonna have to do to get this new hub running and I also wanted to go tubeless.
    You only have to swap the stock freehub body for a compatible XD Driver.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Espen W View Post
    You only have to swap the stock freehub body for a compatible XD Driver.
    You would think. I have had much difficulty locating one. Specialized does not offer it and they said it was a Novatech hub. Novatech had no information for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CJones View Post
    Anybody know what the deal is with those nipples/nuts?
    I will in a few days. Hopefully its nothing crazy. I am guessing, cause I have never seen anything like this, maybe the nipple has internal threads for the spokes and external for the nut. I'm guessing no actual nipple head, just some straight connector. Someone who has seen this before, please post. Can regular nipples be used?

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    My guess is that the "nuts" are part of the nipples since it seems like a big coincidence to have them both red anodized (and also because having two pieces doesn't really work). Either Specialized wanted the large bases and washers to keep the stresses on the rims down, or they really wanted to get some tension in those spokes...

  17. #17
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    I'll see if I can get a better look tomorrow, but I think RR might be correct.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RocktonRider View Post
    My guess is that the "nuts" are part of the nipples since it seems like a big coincidence to have them both red anodized (and also because having two pieces doesn't really work). Either Specialized wanted the large bases and washers to keep the stresses on the rims down, or they really wanted to get some tension in those spokes...
    I'm hoping your right. I was thinking this came from comp model that does not have the red nipples, but looking back your right, it is the Expert model and those do have the red visible nipples. And if this is the case, the wheel build will be just as easy or easier than a standard wheel. The thing that made me think two different pieces is the silver (bare metal) that is visible at the center of the nut. Maybe it's bonded in there and that why there is no red anodizing. Tubeless is still another issue.

  19. #19
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    I am sure the "nut" is just the head of the nipple. Very common. Used a lot on rims with hidden nipples. Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways.
    I proudly ride for these guys.

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    What do you think about truing them? Do you think that you would true them with a typical spoke wrench or did they design with the nut intending that you true them via the nut?

    I have never seen a wheel with nipple/nut design like this...

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    Quote Originally Posted by skr29er View Post
    What do you think about truing them? Do you think that you would true them with a typical spoke wrench or did they design with the nut intending that you true them via the nut?
    Reading into Logantri's post (Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways), it looks like you can true using either which would be perfect. You can build up the wheel using the nut, making for an easy build up, but you can still true it using a spoke wrench. I am hoping this is the case. I will be finding out in a day or two.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    Reading into Logantri's post (Allows one to twist the nipples 2 different ways), it looks like you can true using either which would be perfect. You can build up the wheel using the nut, making for an easy build up, but you can still true it using a spoke wrench. I am hoping this is the case. I will be finding out in a day or two.
    Exactly. I assume the hex heads makes machine built wheels go together easier/faster.
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  23. #23
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    I'll be psyched to see your report on setting it up tubeless. A guy on another thread said he was able to set it up with gorilla tape- but his was a comp- I assume they both have these kinds of nipples...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I'll be psyched to see your report on setting it up tubeless. A guy on another thread said he was able to set it up with gorilla tape- but his was a comp- I assume they both have these kinds of nipples...
    see my post on page 2 here On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To)

    The 1/4" closed cell polyethylene foam would work perfect to cover the nut. i'd prob even carve out a spot in the foam for each nut as you wrap it on.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    see my post on page 2 here On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To)

    The 1/4" closed cell polyethylene foam would work perfect to cover the nut. i'd prob even carve out a spot in the foam for each nut as you wrap it on.
    Thanks Wadedro. I currently have Holy Rolling Daryls and have done the foam, gorilla tape, and split tube methods. Most recently, I've used the 3M fat tape and no foam with good results. The foam typically gets compressed so much after the initial inflation that it's useless for subsequent mountings, and I've been able to get a Nate, a Husker Du, and a Bud all to seat up just fine by mounting them up with a tube first and just popping one bead. Plus, the Specialized rims don't have that deep center cavity, so I don't think the foam is necessary.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  26. #26
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    So I just took my rear fatboy wheel apart. The nipples are standard. Hex head nipples and a nipple washer. That picture makes them look bigger than what they are. So a tubeless install should not be affected by the nipples. Also while I had the rim bare, I weighed it at 767 grams. Not bad.

  27. #27
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    alshead, can you elaborate on your latest method with mounting them up with a tube first. do you air up the tire with a tube in, then break the bead off one side and pull the tube out? thanks

  28. #28
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    Este:

    Yes- basically tape it, put tire on, tube in and inflate- best to let it sit for a while and in warmer temps (not my cold-ass garage). Pop one side, take tube out, put valve stem in, re-seat tire. You can put sauce in then or fill first to set bead. Using the gravity method as in the video helps (basically, inflating with the loose bead side down/ wheel horizontal instead of standing the wheel upright). I still have a lot of leakage the first couple of times after putting sealant in, which happened with foam and, surprisingly, with a split-tube as well, but after airing it up a few times and rolling the sealant into all the leaky spots, it was good to go. Have had it down to 2-3 psi on my Bud without a problem (again, on Holy RD's).

    Only time I lost a seal was when the tire was already down to about 3psi and I put it in my rack (Yakima Holdup) and drove home- putting the hook around the tire with the air that low popped the bead. Got it home and aired it up and it re-seated no problem.

    BPD131: Great news. Any chance you took any pics while you had it apart?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    BPD131: Great news. Any chance you took any pics while you had it apart?
    I took a pic of the rim on the scale, but nothing else. When I rebuilt the wheel with the new hub, I also used butted spokes and alloy nipples. The "comp" version uses brass and straight gauge spokes. So it will be lighter. The hub itself was 30-40 grams lighter, spokes and nipples are almost another 60-80 grams. The wheel will be approximately 1/4 pound lighter. And I am gonna go tubeless.

  30. #30
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    ^What hub? I might rebuild mine (if I ever get the dang thing).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    ^What hub? I might rebuild mine (if I ever get the dang thing).
    I went with the 9 Zero 7. It came with QR front and rear as well as 12mm rear and 15mm front and I got the XX1 freehub for my set so I have complete flexibility for future endeavors.

  32. #32
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    I just set mine up tubeless. It could not have been easier. I bought 4 inch wide tape form Pegasus that someone listed here. I put it on, over lapped a few inches on each side of the valves stem. I then cut excess of edge so it would set in the hookless bead nicely. Inflated with a tube over night at about 20-25 lbs of pressure. Woke up this morning, deflated the tube, one side of bead came off without trying, I tried to make sure the other didn't come off but I don't know if it would matter. I took the tube out of the one bead side and put in a valve stem. I inflated the tire to get beads on again, no problem with that at all. Took out the core and put in sealant of choice, installed the core and inflated. There was one spot at the weld that had some sealant visible, but no problem. Also the core that I used (a Specialized valve stem from my other wheel set, which I do not like) had a little sealant also. I tightened the core down and viola, it works perfectly. OK, now for the caveat, I use a compressor for air ups. I also tried orange seal for the first time and it worked fine, but I do not get a lot of punctures, so it's mainly for sealing tire and minor wheel imperfections. I used way too much sealant, 12 oz. I could get away with 8 easily, I think. I do not know about weight because I was so engrossed in getting it done, I forgot. Gonna go ride the for an hour or so and make sure the seal stays. Any questions feel free to pm or post.

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    Bpd131, looking forward to your tubeless ride report. I'm picking mine up tomorrow and am thinking of converting to tubeless this weekend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    I just set mine up tubeless. It could not have been easier. ...
    Thanks for the info. When (if) I get mine, I'll likely follow this same process. Just to confirm, this is with the ground control tires? Also, did you leave the fatboy rim strip on below the tape?

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonlikesbikes View Post
    Thanks for the info. When (if) I get mine, I'll likely follow this same process. Just to confirm, this is with the ground control tires? Also, did you leave the fatboy rim strip on below the tape?
    Yes Ground Control Tires. Yes I left the rim strip in there. I guess you don't have to but that would leave the sticky side of the tape collecting dirt in the rim cut outs.

  36. #36
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    OK, so the ride report is as such. First, I have none, ZERO, fatbiking experience.This is my first fat bike build and ride. As far as tubeless goes, it went well as described in previous post. I kept both tires at 8 PSI, but that is off my pump and I'm betting those readings are not that accurate with that low of a pressure. But, my front is not tubeless yet and I could definitely tell the difference between the wheels. There was only a dusting of snow on the ground and it was frozen underneath. The tires were not soft enough to eat up all the roots and rocks we have in CT, so it was still a rough ride, especially with the front not being tubeless yet. I am going out this weekend and I will try a lower pressure. I will find my old motocross air gauge for an accurate psi measurement. It appears to have held the air for the ride, but tomorrow morning will really show if that's true. Once I get the parts for the front rebuild, that one will also be tubeless. I agree with most other people the front end is too low on these fatboy's and I will be getting hi-rise bars very soon. But keep in mind, all my bikes are built like this, again this is my MX background keeping me in the position.

  37. #37
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    For those wanting to know, my tubeless conversion held air perfectly. But on another note, it sounds like the Orange Seal slushed up a little, not frozen, just little bits of slush in the tire. When I spun the tire, I thought I heard brake rub, but I took a closer look/listen and I hear it in the tire. Hope fully this will not be a problem.

    We got 2 more inches of snow. I was not planning to ride today, but I guess I will now.

  38. #38
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    More verification and relevant picts and weights

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0732.jpg
    Just Tube
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0733.jpg
    Wheel, cassette, rotor, and skewer (pen zeroed out)
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0734.jpg
    wheel and rotor only (pen zeroed out)
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0738.jpg
    just tire
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0739.jpg
    rim strip
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0742.jpg
    outside to outside width
    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_0743.jpg
    outside to outside width

  39. #39
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Another tubeless success story. Set them up with 2.88 gorilla tape. 2 layers per wheel to cover the whole rim. I had to use an air compressor to seat them. Added 8oz of Stan's through the valve stem, aired up to 15 psi, spun them for a few minutes while shaking and turning them. I saw a little Stan's at the weld, and one 2" section of the bead. Let them sit over night and zero loss of pressure this morning.

  40. #40
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    gcohen, bpd131 and anyone else who has gone tubeless on their FatBoy how far out on the rim did you take your tape? Did you leave in the original rim strip also? What tubeless stem did you use?

    Just trying to get a feel for what methods, tapes, valves, etc. have worked...

    I run tubeless on all my other MTB's but had not necessarily planned to do so on my FatBoy. However since swapping out the boat anchor tubes that came stock with some much lighter Michelin 2.5-2.8 tubes I had two puncture flats in three rides. Flat repairs on the trail with the fat tires is not fun! Considered going back to the heavy but much burlier stock tubes but I really could tell a big difference with the lighter tubes. So now I am thinking of going tubeless.

    The GC tires seem very loose on the Roval rims in fact they almost fall off the rims and with no bead hook at all i had wondered about the success of running tubeless. Are you having good success? Do you have a lot of time running them tubeless yet? Any reason to not go tubeless?

  41. #41
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    I ran the tape to the hookless bead edge and up higher a little. I used a 4in leading edge tape from Pegasus Automotive that someone else posted somewhere in the fatbike tubeless section, over the standard rim striip, and then trimmed the tape along the bead. I also used the tire/tube combo overnight to make sure everything was stuck down good. The specialized rim does not have a tubeless lead in section where the tire would "pop" in to place, but I have not had any problems at 5-6 psi with burping or anything else. The tape weighs about 100-120 grams and I used a total of 16oz of Orange Seal for both wheels for my set up. But You DO NOT NEED that much sealant, the tires seal almost without sealant.

  42. #42
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I ran 2.88 gorilla tape to the bead edge. I did not put tape up the hookless rim wall. If you use the gorilla tape, you will need two strips to cover edge to edge. The stock rim strip stays in place and the tape goes over it. I used Stan's tubeless valve stems. I've ridden 3 times since converting and haven't put a pump to either tire. I'm running 6/7 psi.

  43. #43
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    I got my Fatboy Thursday night, took it for a spin on Saturday morning and set it up tubeless Saturday night. I used the 2 strips of Gorilla Tape and 8 oz of Stan's in each wheel. Total weight savings was exactly 1lb. My comp, with XT pedals, weighs 31lbs 14oz, and with the tubeless setup it now weights 30lbs 14oz.

    I ran it at 5 psi (I weigh 180lbs) and it worked great, I got better traction than the day before with tubes at 7 psi.
    Last edited by chriscycles; 02-11-2014 at 12:34 PM.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by chriscycles View Post
    I got my Fatboy Thursday night, took it for a spin on Saturday morning and set it up tubeless Saturday night. I used the 2 strips of Gorilla Tape and 8 oz of Stan's in each wheel. Total weight savings was exactly 1lb. My comp, with XT pedals, weighs 31lbs 14oz, and with the tubeless setup it now weights 30lbs 14oz.

    I ran it at 5 psi (I weight 180lbs) and it worked great, I got better traction than the day before with tubes at 7 psi.
    Almost exactly my experience too! Same weight difference, savings, final weight, and results!

  45. #45
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    0.63 pounds per wheel

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-wheelweight.jpg

    My experience is in line with others'; stock weight was 7.88# for complete front wheel/tire/tube/rim strip/rotor/skewer; dropped to 7.25 eliminating the rim strip, using 1.88 digital camo Duck tape backed by packing tape, 3 rounds of Gorilla tape 1.88, and 6 oz of Stan's.

    Airtight without sealant. I will cross-post in tubeless Tuesday.

    Total weight loss of 1.3#; total bike weight is now 29.6# without pedals. The only other change from stock is x7 triggers and aftermarket lockon grips in place of the twisties.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    For those wanting to know, my tubeless conversion held air perfectly. But on another note, it sounds like the Orange Seal slushed up a little, not frozen, just little bits of slush in the tire. When I spun the tire, I thought I heard brake rub, but I took a closer look/listen and I hear it in the tire. Hope fully this will not be a problem.

    We got 2 more inches of snow. I was not planning to ride today, but I guess I will now.
    Orange was showing a subzero version of it's sealant at Frostbike, keep an eye out for it. It should be showing up soon.

  47. #47
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    Good to know. Thanks

  48. #48
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    Bike Source on S Colorado, Denver has 2 available on the showroom floor. 1 green and 1 Expert, not sure on the sizes.

  49. #49
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    Just converted my wheels to tubeless. Saving 400 grams on each wheel. I put 85g of tape, 10g for a valve and 100g of Stan's. It's about one pound per wheel !

  50. #50
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    For those that had their tires off, is the 75mm rim strip going to be too wide or should I get the 64mm strips? I have orange 75mm to put in if it wirll work fine.

    Bob

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