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  1. #76
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    It was only a color change and which width to get to replace the white strip that was on my Fat Boy

    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I'm confused. Are people using the surly rim strip to set up tubeless? Without tape?


    There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by reig3 View Post
    It was only a color change and which width to get to replace the white strip that was on my Fat Boy
    Cool- thanks. And did you figure out which width works best?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  3. #78
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    I went with the 75MM wide and no you cant use orange now

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I often wondered if you could feel the difference in frame materials on a fat bike. I figured with that much bounce you wouldn't be able to feel any aluminum harshness or steel springy-ness. Interesting. V8s are definitely going to have lower rolling resistance than GCs
    i wouldn't have thought that it would be noticeable, but it really is.

    mmmmmm, v8 season

    rog

  5. #80
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    I put these tires to the test yesterday and decided that ...they rock! beat them silly in the dirt, mud, broken and weathered granite gardens. Climbed EVERYTHING with endless traction and descended with near reckless abandon.

    Who cares what they weigh!

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I put these tires to the test yesterday and decided that ...they rock! beat them silly in the dirt, mud, broken and weathered granite gardens. Climbed EVERYTHING with endless traction and descended with near reckless abandon.

    Who cares what they weigh!
    GO E-MAN!!!!

    rog

  7. #82
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    I just finished converting my fatboy to tubeless and it couldn't have been easier. I read all these comments and didn't experience any of these problems. I purchased 2 surly orange 75mm rim strips, which by the way are 40 grams heavier for both, than the specialized rim strips, but I didn't like the white with my green frame so they had to go! Then I purchased Orangeseal's fat bike kit with subzero sealant and 75mm tape. After removing the specialized rim strip and installing the surly 75mm strip (required some stretching to install which gave it a nice tight fit). Then after thoroughly cleaning the rim with alcohol and making sure it was dry, I wrapped the orange seal rim tape while pulling it tightly, first wrapping one layer to the edge of the rim( not the upright bead portion, just to where the rim turns up perpendicular at the edge.) Then a second layer on the opposite side. Just be sure you cover the little gas venting holes they punch in the rim for the welding of the rim. The tape doesn't cover the holes by very much, but don't worry it will seal. I wrapped in different directions so the tape would pull on itself and stay tight.You will get a lot of wrinkling in the middle over the rim strip, but it doesn't show through the rim strip once is all pushed down with the tube. Punch out the valve hole with a pointed punch, preferably heated so it melts the tape as you push it through. Reinstall the original tube and tire and reinflate to 20 psi. Let it sit overnight. It will completely push the orange seal tape into the cracks and crevises and will seal the first time. After sitting overnight, remove the valve core, and be very careful and only remove one side of the bead of the tire to remove the tube. Be gentle, the other bead doesn't attach very tightly to the rim. Now install the orange seal valve stem, and lay the rim with tire now installed either on top of a five gallon bucket, with the loose bead down. This is very important, if you don't put the loose bead down, you will never get the bead to seat. The weight and flex of the tire will allow the loose bead to hang down against the side of the rim. This will allow you to set the bead with a hand pump almost effortlessly. The first few pumps need to be done quickly at a fevered pitch until you don't here any air leaking out which should be very quickly. I had no problems doing both tires this way. pump them up to 20 psi to get the loose bead to seat. Now this part can be tricky. A helper might be needed but I did by myself with no problem. While supporting the tire and rim, remove the valve core of the orange seal stem. don't let the rim weight rest on the tire during this step, hold it by the spokes in the air while you install 4 oz. of orangeseal subzero formula. If you don't expect cold temps, you can use the regular orangeseal. Reinstall the stem holding the threaded part because as the core starts to get tight, the stem will spin in the rim, so hold it while you tighten the core. After you install sealant gently lay the rim back on the bucket with the side that had the loose bead down, and hook up the pump and air it up again in the same manner . You may see a little sealant around stem or seam in rim but thats ok. Pump up to 20 psi and move the tire back and forth while holding the tire rim combo horizontal and move the tire rim around like a coin when it self levels when dropped on a table. Then install rim and spin tire back and forth in both directions and go for ride, your done! The orange seal rim is no where near the weight of duct tape, and it is designed to be used with sealant. The thin crackly feeling of the tape is deceiving. Once you wrap the rim and inflate the tube overnight, that tape sticks like crazy. My tubes weighed 530 grams each, not 600+ like some of the guys had on their bikes, but losing 1060 grams in tube, adding 40 grams in rim strips, and 55 grams of sealant, comes out to 2.12 lbs reduction in rolling mass! Huge difference when I went out for a ride. Well worth it. Rode the local trails here with some small jumps and a few 2 to 3 foot drops, and roots mammy, with no issues at all. No loss of air and I run around 8 psi. Best mod so far to my fatty!

  8. #83
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    awesome keep us updated....have you rode any rutted trails yet? Our trails are a bit rough here.....if this works for you I want to consider it. Any pics of new tape installed? I would like to red surly rim strips if possible. Why did you not run stans?

  9. #84
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    Why not Stans.

    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    awesome keep us updated....have you rode any rutted trails yet? Our trails are a bit rough here.....if this works for you I want to consider it. Any pics of new tape installed? I would like to red surly rim strips if possible. Why did you not run stans?
    Orange seal makes a ready made kit, and I couldn't find that in Stans, supposedly Fatback sells it but I couldn't find it, plus they are in Alaska, I'm in Fl. didn't want to wait 2 weeks for it. Orange seal also makes a subzero sealant that won't freeze in 0 temps. I do a couple trips a year to Alaska and Montana, and it gets way down there in Alaska! There's tons of ruts and roots here in Florida, muck, down tree limbs on the trail all the time. I didn't take any pics of the tape on my bike, but I'm doing one this weekend for a buddy, and i'll snap some pics and post them

  10. #85
    Anchorage, AK
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    Re: Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Slime Pro is good to -35 F.

    --Lars
    --Peace

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4wdoutfitters View Post
    Orange seal makes a ready made kit, and I couldn't find that in Stans, supposedly Fatback sells it but I couldn't find it, plus they are in Alaska, I'm in Fl. didn't want to wait 2 weeks for it. Orange seal also makes a subzero sealant that won't freeze in 0 temps. I do a couple trips a year to Alaska and Montana, and it gets way down there in Alaska! There's tons of ruts and roots here in Florida, muck, down tree limbs on the trail all the time. I didn't take any pics of the tape on my bike, but I'm doing one this weekend for a buddy, and i'll snap some pics and post them
    anymore updates on this? which valvestems did you use?

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