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  1. #101
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    I'm thinking of replacing the red rim tape on my Fatboy. What width do I need for these 90 mm rims?

  2. #102
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    If you want to sell the Ground Control tires that came on your Fatboy when you replace them with Bud/Lou, I'd be interested. Thanks!

  3. #103
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I'm rebuilding my front wheel onto a Hope Fatsno 15x150 hub for my new Bluto. For anyone curious about the hub flange size, they're VERY similar:





    I'll start putting them together tomorrow. If anyone has any questions about the wheels/hubs, let me know!

  4. #104
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    I would like to do the same as I have a bluto waiting for my Fatboy. My buddy has his done at the LBS and they re-used the same spokes and said it was an easy swap.
    I'm thinking about taking a stab at this myself. It would be my first attempt at wheel building so any tips from your experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  5. #105
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    It's my first try too, going to be a lot of trial, and likely even more error. But I want to learn.

    First new detail: the hex on the spoke nipples is a 5.5mm hex head. I picked up a screwdriver -> 1/4" socket adaptor and a 5.5mm socket head. I have friends staying through the weekend, so it might take me a bit to get it done.

  6. #106
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    I swapped to a Surly hub a few months back. Building this wheel was much easier than a regular mountain bike wheel - I guess because it's so wide. I tightened the spokes up to the same tension as the back wheel (more or less) by plucking the spoke and tuning it to the same frequency. I had no hops and didn't really have to do any truing of the wheel, it was stable too, no re-truing after the first few rides. Other normal bike wheels I have built it took quite a bit of time to balance the tension and the trueness of the rim.

  7. #107
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    Fatboy SE weights

    I thought folks might be interested in how the weights differ with the Fatboy SE - the new low end model. Here's what I measured:

    Fatboy SE, L, w/RaceFace AEffect pedals and bottle cage: 34.08 lbs
    Front wheel, complete: 8.29 lbs
    Front wheel wo/rim strip and skewer: 1540 g
    Front wheel w/ rim strip and skewer: 1670 g
    Rear wheel, complete: 9.35 lbs
    Rear wheel w/rim strip and skewer: 2210 g
    Bike wo/wheels: 16.47 lbs
    26 x 4.6 Ground Control 60 TPI wire bead tire: 3.4 lbs (1540 g front, 1490 g rear) edit: from reading other posts, it seems that folding bead GC tire is ~1450 g. Could it be that I have the 120 TPI tire?
    Tubes: 520 g each front and rear

    It's pretty clear the wheels & tires is where the extra weight is on this bike.
    Last edited by Chinman; 02-01-2015 at 07:41 AM.

  8. #108
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    Hello, Just wondering if you could tell me the spoke hole number for the specialized fat boy rims? Trying to figure out if I can rebuild them, offset, for a Moonlander. Thanks.

  9. #109
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    Specs are here:
    Specialized Bicycle Components

    32 spokes per rim.

  10. #110
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    Sorry, this is a bit of a cross post, but didn't get any bites in the Spec brand forum.

    I got a XD Driver hub for the rear wheel, and it dropped right in but spins with a LOT of resistance. If it's on the stand it doesn't freewheel at all. I checked the tension on the hub bearings and they're spinning freely - so it's not tightened down too much (confirmed by our shop manager).

    Has anyone else had this issue? Did it free up over time? Were you able to make it work better?

    Thanks!

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    Sorry, this is a bit of a cross post, but didn't get any bites in the Spec brand forum.

    I got a XD Driver hub for the rear wheel, and it dropped right in but spins with a LOT of resistance. If it's on the stand it doesn't freewheel at all. I checked the tension on the hub bearings and they're spinning freely - so it's not tightened down too much (confirmed by our shop manager).

    Has anyone else had this issue? Did it free up over time? Were you able to make it work better?

    Thanks!
    Do you have a spacer behind the cassette? That is the only thing I can think of that might cause this issue.
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  12. #112
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    Yes, you have two seals in your freehub, in error. You need to take one out. This drove me crazy until I figured out the problem. It is the small black lip seal that goes between the freehub and the hub body.

    When you took the old body off the seal remained in the hub. Then Spec ships the XD driver with a new seal, so you probably put it right in (just like I did) and now you have two seals stacked on top of one another.
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  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Yes, you have two seals in your freehub, in error. You need to take one out. This drove me crazy until I figured out the problem. It is the small black lip seal that goes between the freehub and the hub body.

    When you took the old body off the seal remained in the hub. Then Spec ships the XD driver with a new seal, so you probably put it right in (just like I did) and now you have two seals stacked on top of one another.
    Good to know about this. Thanks
    RICOH for LIFE
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  14. #114
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Hey fellow Fatboy owners what stems for tubeless conversion work best with the standard Fatboy rims?

  15. #115
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    The regular Stans work fine. Nothing special required.
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  16. #116
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    Stans are the ones I use in the shop and work the best. The ones from Orange Seal don't seem to work all that great so this is why I use the Stans.
    RICOH for LIFE
    Pain is Weakness

  17. #117
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    Interesting.

    I didn't notice any seals included with the XD Driver - I certainly didn't put any in. But I'll take it apart and take a look.

    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Yes, you have two seals in your freehub, in error. You need to take one out. This drove me crazy until I figured out the problem. It is the small black lip seal that goes between the freehub and the hub body.

    When you took the old body off the seal remained in the hub. Then Spec ships the XD driver with a new seal, so you probably put it right in (just like I did) and now you have two seals stacked on top of one another.

  18. #118
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    You'll know if you have two seals in there as your wheel will not freewheel. Here is the seal:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-img_20150110_152421228.jpg  

    '15 Evil The Following
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  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    You'll know if you have two seals in there as your wheel will not freewheel. Here is the seal:
    Took it apart, removed that seal, and it freewheels now! Thanks so much!

    I was nervous to remove it, but it does look like there is a nearly identical seal on the hub itself.

  20. #120
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    The seal on the hub is the same one and it does indeed come out with a pick, but you can just leave it in there if it is in good shape. The design definitely only calls for one seal.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  21. #121
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    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Has anyone measured the weight of the stock hubs? I plan on building up a new wheel set and was curious as to how much weight can be shaved off

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastpunk View Post
    Has anyone measured the weight of the stock hubs? I plan on building up a new wheel set and was curious as to how much weight can be shaved off
    I actually did weigh them and compared the weight to 907 hubs. Problem is I don't remember what they weighed, but though I don't have exact weights, I can tell you the combination front and rear were almost identical in total when compared to 907, but I remember it being the rear was heavier by 15 grams or so and front was lighter by the same, so it was very close to a wash. My i9 torch hubs were about 30-40 grams lighter for the pair I believe. So don't expect too much in the way of weight savings from the hub itself.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastpunk View Post
    Has anyone measured the weight of the stock hubs? I plan on building up a new wheel set and was curious as to how much weight can be shaved off
    Depends on the internals as I've read Specialized has changed the axle over the past year. My dealer rebuilt rear stock hub is 460g (no skewer) so I saved 95 grams switching to a Hope 190mm hub.

    Not sure on the front as I forgot to weigh it before I sold it.
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  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Depends on the internals as I've read Specialized has changed the axle over the past year. My dealer rebuilt rear stock hub is 460g (no skewer) so I saved 95 grams switching to a Hope 190mm hub.

    Not sure on the front as I forgot to weigh it before I sold it.
    Good point. And I know mine was off one of the first ones the US. Though I was lucky and never had problems before I sold it. It certainly could have been lighter (weaker) than they are now.

  25. #125
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    I thought my LBS said they had put a steel axle in mine when they rebuilt it. it did last longer than the original, it was still working when I swapped it.
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon
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  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    I actually did weigh them and compared the weight to 907 hubs. Problem is I don't remember what they weighed, but though I don't have exact weights, I can tell you the combination front and rear were almost identical in total when compared to 907, but I remember it being the rear was heavier by 15 grams or so and front was lighter by the same, so it was very close to a wash. My i9 torch hubs were about 30-40 grams lighter for the pair I believe. So don't expect too much in the way of weight savings from the hub itself.
    Thanks! I'm thinking about building up a budget summer trail wheelset with neon trials rims and origin8 hubs.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    I'm rebuilding my front wheel onto a Hope Fatsno 15x150 hub for my new Bluto. For anyone curious about the hub flange size, they're VERY similar:





    I'll start putting them together tomorrow. If anyone has any questions about the wheels/hubs, let me know!
    Did you weigh the stock fatboy front hub?

  28. #128
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    Here's a minority report of tubeless success without G-tape ... I snagged a pair of 20" Schwinn "Chopper" replacement tubes and used those for rim strips. Aired it up with a compressor, popped out the valve core, added 3 oz of Stans and have had zero flats for a year. Took 15 minutes total.
    Just sayin...

  29. #129
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  30. #130
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    Slow-Thyrol... That's exactly the thing!
    On my FatBoy I had about 3/4" to trim on either side. It stretches out nice and tight around the rim. It's actually a really elegant solution.
    To set the beads, I took out the valve core and gave it a blast with an air gun. Drop in a bit of sealant, insert the core, air it to 6-9 PSI and Bobs your uncle. Ready for crazy time in the dirt.

  31. #131
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    Tubeless FatBike Wheel Conversion and uber lightweight wheels...

    Wow... A ton of info on this thread. I used to think all of my FatBoy wheelsets were competitive, once the were set up tubeless, but not anymore. The ENSO6105 wheelset weighed in at 1866g complete. Those Tune hubs are spectacular and Kuroshiro wheels (Alchemy builds them) are unmatched. Max rider weight of 220 lbs, 105mm Inside Bead Width for 1866g. Wow...

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-enso6105_scale2.jpgSpecialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-enso6105.jpg

    As far as converting FatBoy wheelsets to tubeless, check out FattyStripper Tubeless Solutions for a complete conversion kit that Blings the wheel & makes it a super-reliable tubeless conversion. I've got 4 FatBoy's set up with that system and they went all summer without loosing air... with only 2 oz of Stan's in them. I just refreshed the Stan's for the winter... but FattyStripper is the simplest way to go.

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos-3m_blingstrips_ryb.jpg

  32. #132
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    picked up my SE friday and tubeless is first on the agenda, so reviving this thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by wileycoyote View Post
    Here's a minority report of tubeless success without G-tape ... I snagged a pair of 20" Schwinn "Chopper" replacement tubes and used those for rim strips. Aired it up with a compressor, popped out the valve core, added 3 oz of Stans and have had zero flats for a year. Took 15 minutes total.
    Just sayin...
    Quote Originally Posted by wileycoyote View Post
    ..On my FatBoy I had about 3/4" to trim on either side. It stretches out nice and tight around the rim. It's actually a really elegant solution.
    To set the beads, I took out the valve core and gave it a blast with an air gun. Drop in a bit of sealant, insert the core, air it to 6-9 PSI and Bobs your uncle. Ready for crazy time in the dirt.
    this has my attention. so did you just make one cut around the tube opposite the valve stem, and then trim the 3/4" per side you mentioned? any idea how the tube weight compares to other methods' materials in this thread?
    VILLAGE RACING

  33. #133
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    I too was curious about weight savings when I switched to the FattyStrippers.
    It came out like this:
    Stock 2016 Fat Boy Comp tube weight: 508 grams
    FattyStripper weight: 49g minus 12.5g trimmed off after installing=36.5g
    Stans tubeless stem: 7g
    2 oz Stans sealant: 60g
    Comes out to 404.5g per wheel weight saved.
    First tried with only one ounce of Stans, but had some leaking. Two seemed to fix it right up. I also did not glue the strips to the wheel.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnwa View Post
    I too was curious about weight savings when I switched to the FattyStrippers.
    It came out like this:
    Stock 2016 Fat Boy Comp tube weight: 508 grams
    FattyStripper weight: 49g minus 12.5g trimmed off after installing=36.5g
    Stans tubeless stem: 7g
    2 oz Stans sealant: 60g
    Comes out to 404.5g per wheel weight saved.
    First tried with only one ounce of Stans, but had some leaking. Two seemed to fix it right up. I also did not glue the strips to the wheel.
    This week I have started the process to convert my Fatboy Trail to tubeless using Fatty Stripper. I've finished the front wheel but not the back. Stock weight of front wheel, tire, tube, and rotor was exactly 8lbs. This doesn't include the QR. After the conversion, the weight was down to just over 7lbs with the caveat that I didn't measure how much sealant I put in.

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnwa View Post
    I too was curious about weight savings when I switched to the FattyStrippers.
    It came out like this:
    Stock 2016 Fat Boy Comp tube weight: 508 grams
    FattyStripper weight: 49g minus 12.5g trimmed off after installing=36.5g
    Stans tubeless stem: 7g
    2 oz Stans sealant: 60g
    Comes out to 404.5g per wheel weight saved.
    First tried with only one ounce of Stans, but had some leaking. Two seemed to fix it right up. I also did not glue the strips to the wheel.
    Yeah but you could have saved 300 of those grams just by going with a lighter tube.
    --Peace

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    Yeah but you could have saved 300 of those grams just by going with a lighter tube.
    And get pinch flats PLUS the massive rolling resistance caused simply having a tube inside the tire rubbing against the tire continuously at the deflection points. At 4psi, 170 lb rider, 16 mph... it was 25W of loss with said Q-tube. And Q-tubes cost more...

  37. #137
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    Wow.

    Not to jinx this, but I am really impressed with 1. the amount of useful info on this thread, and 2. the lack of flame wars, heckling, and derailment that are so common.

    Good on ya! Thanks...
    Riding: '91 Carbon Epic Stumpjumper w/1" Slicks and a Rack on the Back

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    And get pinch flats PLUS the massive rolling resistance caused simply having a tube inside the tire rubbing against the tire continuously at the deflection points. At 4psi, 170 lb rider, 16 mph... it was 25W of loss with said Q-tube. And Q-tubes cost more...
    How did you measure the 25 watt loss?
    --Peace

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimonsJ View Post
    And get pinch flats PLUS the massive rolling resistance caused simply having a tube inside the tire rubbing against the tire continuously at the deflection points. At 4psi, 170 lb rider, 16 mph... it was 25W of loss with said Q-tube. And Q-tubes cost more...
    q-tube lights on my fatboy with ground controls since September 2015 running pressure anywhere from 2-10psi. No pinch flats yet.

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    How did you measure the 25 watt loss?
    I'm a huge proponent of tubeless, because my area has tons of goat heads... But I'd like to know this as well.

  41. #141
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    Okay I just bought a new 16 Fatboy Comp (orange one). Are the hubs of any value? Are they light enough to for say use them to lace up some carbon rims? I just ordered the xd driver to convert to 11 spd using Sram X01. So that will help some weight. But just curious on the hubs by themselves.
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