Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 51 to 100 of 141
  1. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101

    FatBoy/Surly Rim Strip

    For those that had their tires off, is the 75mm rim strip going to be too wide or should I get the 64mm strips? I have orange 75mm to put in if it will work fine.

    Bob

  2. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    77
    The rim strip is just right and can't be less wide because the nipples nuts won't be covered.

  3. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    Ok got that part, thanks. Not having taken mine apart yet I dont know what the stock size is to determine if the 75mm strip is larger or smaller.

    Bob

  4. #54
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    17
    I tried to get mine tubless but how on earth do you get air in the tire with so much clearance between the GC tire and rim? It is so impossible for me...

  5. #55
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    You have to push the bead onto the seat at least a little to start the sealing process. You can put a strap around the tire to help, but for me it took massaging the top of the tire to push the bead outwards. Once you get the bead at least touching the seat you can get it to start taking air and they will settle in (I doubt you will get it aired up without a compressor). Even after I got air in and up to 20psi, I had to bounce the tire and continue to push on the tire to get the seat to migrate all the way out to the edge.

    All that said, I couldn't get the tire to hold air, I could get the tire aired up, but it was flat within an hour or so. I think I'm losing air through the seam. I had to put a tube in before I got to troubleshoot it because I need to get on a ride, I will get it!

  6. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Johanneson's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    239
    Quote Originally Posted by reig3 View Post
    Ok got that part, thanks. Not having taken mine apart yet I dont know what the stock size is to determine if the 75mm strip is larger or smaller.

    Bob
    Air up with a tube, remove tube leaving one bead seated, insert valve, air up with compressor seated bead up, deflate, add sealant through valve core, reinflate. Carry a tube when riding, use it if you flat, and don't worry about all that foam garbage.

  7. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    613
    Air compressor to seat beads is very helpful. I used 4" wide tape cut edge to edge to avoid seam issues.

  8. #58
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    I taped up my front rim with two strips of tape, it wouldn't hold air for more than an hour. I had a ride to go to so I dropped a tube in and a week later I pulled it apart to see what went wrong. I found that the Gorilla tape wasn't adhering to the rim at all. I don't know if I got a bad roll of tape or what but it pulled off so easily and was obviously not airtight. I cleaned everything up, roughed up the paint on the inside of the rim and tried again, same result.

    I had an old split tube liner laying around I put that in and aired up with no problems. The bead popped into the seat with a satisfying snap at 20psi.

    John

  9. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bearhunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    276
    Quote Originally Posted by reig3 View Post
    Ok got that part, thanks. Not having taken mine apart yet I dont know what the stock size is to determine if the 75mm strip is larger or smaller.

    Looks like the stock rim strip is 2" wide which translates to roughly 51mm. Based off that, I would probably use the 64mm. Which size did you end up using and how did it work out?

  10. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I think I got the 75mm thinking that the rim was 90mm and the 64 might be smaller since it's for 82mm rims. I am at work and don't recall. I haven't done it yet so I can't say if I got the right size. I was going to try for this week.

    Bob
    FATBOY
    Carve


    Orgasmic Orange Crosstrek


    www.robertirvin.com

  11. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bearhunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    276
    Bob,

    Let me know how the 75mm works out for you. I was thinking about changing mine out as well. I hear you on rim width, it seems that the Specialized rim strip sits in the center "groove" or "valley" of the actual wheel which is approx 2". I've never used Surly rim strips so I don't know if there is any stretch factor. I do know that using a non stretching material such as ribbon causes all kinds of headaches if wider that 2.5" (in terms of wrinkles and getting it flush).

  12. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I figured worst case scenario I cut cut it down to size but not add to it if it was too small.
    FATBOY
    Carve


    Orgasmic Orange Crosstrek


    www.robertirvin.com

  13. #63
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bearhunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    276

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I was thinking the same thing.

  14. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    613
    I have some additional tubeless information for everyone. I was lucky enough to not the issues JIsch had with his set up. I used the 4" wide Pegasus Auto leading edge tape edge to edge, trimming it in the corner. Pressed it in by using a tube at 25 psi in warm environment for a day. Removed the tube from one side leaving the bead on the other, put in sealant (Orange Seal in my case), reinflated and it has held ever since with zero issues. This is old news for anyone who saw other posts. The better news is I was riding with about 8 PSI originally and lowered as necessary. Then in the NE we got a lot of snow all at once. So I lowered it significantly to be able to ride in this snow. The problem is I had no gage that could accurately tell me the pressure I was using. I just rode to feel

    Well I just got the presta valve Meister Accu-gage for 0-15 psi. I checked my rear and it was a hair over the 3PSI mark, and the front was a hair under the 3PSI mark. Here is even better news, I rode last weekend in Bluff Point which was completely dry and all dirt. I rode exactly like I ride any other bike, including jumps. I had ZERO issues with peeling the tire bead off the bead seat, not one burp and no leaking. Though I did have the rims making contact with the ground occasionally, but not enough to damage or leave marks. That is the worst case scenario, I believe, for low pressure fat riding. Now, all that said, don't ride in dry weather with that pressure, the steering takes you where it wants to go, not necessarily where you want to go, but that made it fun and a challenge of a different kind.

    Before we had snow I got out on the Fat boy and I think a good pressure for dirt was bout 6-7 to quell the effects of the steering, but that was from a gage that might not have been all that accurate.

  15. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Twimby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    207
    Just a point of interest. Went riding with my mate who has a Moony with BFL's.
    The GC definitely looked a bit wider. I was going to take a photo next to each other, but got distracted with riding

  16. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    The 75mm Surly strip fit fine with no trimming. Rode it Saturday with no issues. Only did the front but will do the rear this week also.

  17. #67
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bearhunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    276

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Good to know. I was wondering how it turned out.

  18. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,560

    Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    I'm confused. Are people using the surly rim strip to set up tubeless? Without tape?


    There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  19. #69
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    While I can't confirm this based on my failed attempts - I think for it to work the tape has to go up the side of the rim so that the tire bead pinches it, the Gorilla tape I have isn't wide enough. With wider tape the sealant can't work its way under the tape and dissolve the stick (or maybe its just the sticky stuff on Gorilla tape that is prone to contamination).

  20. #70
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    180
    I'm going on 3 months set up tubeless with gorilla tape and zero issues. I've ridden snow, mud, dirt, rocks without a problem. I haven't ridden the fatboy in a few weeks and checked the tires yesterday and they haven't lost any air. I did not run the tape up the side wall of the rim.

  21. #71
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    I must have gotten bad rolls of tape or something. I tried two strips of tape overlapped in the middle, and up the side, and one strip of wider tape that covered all the holes, but didn't make it up the side. In both cases the sealant eventually got under the tape. In the double strip it was almost instantaneous, with the wider tape it took overnight before losing air. In both cases I brought the rims inside and warmed them up before starting.

    In both cases when I pulled the old tape off (in disgust) it came off like a kids sticker comes off the shiny sheet - the adhesion was not good. I cleaned the rims with alcohol each time.

  22. #72
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Got to hop on a friends fat boy expert while on a 24 mile off-road fatty ride on Sunday. Definitely lighter than my charge and fit nearly as well in size large. But man no man what a difference between an alu frame and my steel frame. At the same air pressure the charge is way more buttery smooth with my v8's compared to the fatboy with gc's. Felt like the fatboy has a shorter wheel base and steeper front end a as well. Very light for the price.

    rog

  23. #73
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    180
    I'm not sure why some have success and others don't. The only thing you mentioned that I definitely did not do was clean with alcohol.

  24. #74
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    I only wiped it with alcohol after it failed on the first attempt. The adhesion was ridiculously bad. I figured I'd have a terrible time getting the tape off the rim or at least off the rim strip, it pulled off so easily. I store the tape outside, maybe the cold has affected its adhesion - I brought the tape inside well before starting, so I know it was heated up when I did it.

    Oh well, glad it works for some people and I'm perfectly happy with my split tube set up!

  25. #75
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    But man no man what a difference between an alu frame and my steel frame. At the same air pressure the charge is way more buttery smooth with my v8's compared to the fatboy with gc's.
    I often wondered if you could feel the difference in frame materials on a fat bike. I figured with that much bounce you wouldn't be able to feel any aluminum harshness or steel springy-ness. Interesting. V8s are definitely going to have lower rolling resistance than GCs

  26. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    It was only a color change and which width to get to replace the white strip that was on my Fat Boy

    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    I'm confused. Are people using the surly rim strip to set up tubeless? Without tape?


    There are two types of mountain bikers. Those who are faster than me, and me.

  27. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,560
    Quote Originally Posted by reig3 View Post
    It was only a color change and which width to get to replace the white strip that was on my Fat Boy
    Cool- thanks. And did you figure out which width works best?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  28. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    101
    I went with the 75MM wide and no you cant use orange now <g>

  29. #79
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I often wondered if you could feel the difference in frame materials on a fat bike. I figured with that much bounce you wouldn't be able to feel any aluminum harshness or steel springy-ness. Interesting. V8s are definitely going to have lower rolling resistance than GCs
    i wouldn't have thought that it would be noticeable, but it really is.

    mmmmmm, v8 season

    rog

  30. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,112
    I put these tires to the test yesterday and decided that ...they rock! beat them silly in the dirt, mud, broken and weathered granite gardens. Climbed EVERYTHING with endless traction and descended with near reckless abandon.

    Who cares what they weigh!

  31. #81
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I put these tires to the test yesterday and decided that ...they rock! beat them silly in the dirt, mud, broken and weathered granite gardens. Climbed EVERYTHING with endless traction and descended with near reckless abandon.

    Who cares what they weigh!
    GO E-MAN!!!!

    rog

  32. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    6
    I just finished converting my fatboy to tubeless and it couldn't have been easier. I read all these comments and didn't experience any of these problems. I purchased 2 surly orange 75mm rim strips, which by the way are 40 grams heavier for both, than the specialized rim strips, but I didn't like the white with my green frame so they had to go! Then I purchased Orangeseal's fat bike kit with subzero sealant and 75mm tape. After removing the specialized rim strip and installing the surly 75mm strip (required some stretching to install which gave it a nice tight fit). Then after thoroughly cleaning the rim with alcohol and making sure it was dry, I wrapped the orange seal rim tape while pulling it tightly, first wrapping one layer to the edge of the rim( not the upright bead portion, just to where the rim turns up perpendicular at the edge.) Then a second layer on the opposite side. Just be sure you cover the little gas venting holes they punch in the rim for the welding of the rim. The tape doesn't cover the holes by very much, but don't worry it will seal. I wrapped in different directions so the tape would pull on itself and stay tight.You will get a lot of wrinkling in the middle over the rim strip, but it doesn't show through the rim strip once is all pushed down with the tube. Punch out the valve hole with a pointed punch, preferably heated so it melts the tape as you push it through. Reinstall the original tube and tire and reinflate to 20 psi. Let it sit overnight. It will completely push the orange seal tape into the cracks and crevises and will seal the first time. After sitting overnight, remove the valve core, and be very careful and only remove one side of the bead of the tire to remove the tube. Be gentle, the other bead doesn't attach very tightly to the rim. Now install the orange seal valve stem, and lay the rim with tire now installed either on top of a five gallon bucket, with the loose bead down. This is very important, if you don't put the loose bead down, you will never get the bead to seat. The weight and flex of the tire will allow the loose bead to hang down against the side of the rim. This will allow you to set the bead with a hand pump almost effortlessly. The first few pumps need to be done quickly at a fevered pitch until you don't here any air leaking out which should be very quickly. I had no problems doing both tires this way. pump them up to 20 psi to get the loose bead to seat. Now this part can be tricky. A helper might be needed but I did by myself with no problem. While supporting the tire and rim, remove the valve core of the orange seal stem. don't let the rim weight rest on the tire during this step, hold it by the spokes in the air while you install 4 oz. of orangeseal subzero formula. If you don't expect cold temps, you can use the regular orangeseal. Reinstall the stem holding the threaded part because as the core starts to get tight, the stem will spin in the rim, so hold it while you tighten the core. After you install sealant gently lay the rim back on the bucket with the side that had the loose bead down, and hook up the pump and air it up again in the same manner . You may see a little sealant around stem or seam in rim but thats ok. Pump up to 20 psi and move the tire back and forth while holding the tire rim combo horizontal and move the tire rim around like a coin when it self levels when dropped on a table. Then install rim and spin tire back and forth in both directions and go for ride, your done! The orange seal rim is no where near the weight of duct tape, and it is designed to be used with sealant. The thin crackly feeling of the tape is deceiving. Once you wrap the rim and inflate the tube overnight, that tape sticks like crazy. My tubes weighed 530 grams each, not 600+ like some of the guys had on their bikes, but losing 1060 grams in tube, adding 40 grams in rim strips, and 55 grams of sealant, comes out to 2.12 lbs reduction in rolling mass! Huge difference when I went out for a ride. Well worth it. Rode the local trails here with some small jumps and a few 2 to 3 foot drops, and roots mammy, with no issues at all. No loss of air and I run around 8 psi. Best mod so far to my fatty!

  33. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    158
    awesome keep us updated....have you rode any rutted trails yet? Our trails are a bit rough here.....if this works for you I want to consider it. Any pics of new tape installed? I would like to red surly rim strips if possible. Why did you not run stans?

  34. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    6

    Why not Stans.

    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    awesome keep us updated....have you rode any rutted trails yet? Our trails are a bit rough here.....if this works for you I want to consider it. Any pics of new tape installed? I would like to red surly rim strips if possible. Why did you not run stans?
    Orange seal makes a ready made kit, and I couldn't find that in Stans, supposedly Fatback sells it but I couldn't find it, plus they are in Alaska, I'm in Fl. didn't want to wait 2 weeks for it. Orange seal also makes a subzero sealant that won't freeze in 0 temps. I do a couple trips a year to Alaska and Montana, and it gets way down there in Alaska! There's tons of ruts and roots here in Florida, muck, down tree limbs on the trail all the time. I didn't take any pics of the tape on my bike, but I'm doing one this weekend for a buddy, and i'll snap some pics and post them

  35. #85
    Anchorage, AK
    Reputation: Lars_D's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,104

    Re: Specialized Fat Boy wheel/tire weights and photos

    Slime Pro is good to -35 F.

    --Lars
    --Peace

  36. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    158
    Quote Originally Posted by 4wdoutfitters View Post
    Orange seal makes a ready made kit, and I couldn't find that in Stans, supposedly Fatback sells it but I couldn't find it, plus they are in Alaska, I'm in Fl. didn't want to wait 2 weeks for it. Orange seal also makes a subzero sealant that won't freeze in 0 temps. I do a couple trips a year to Alaska and Montana, and it gets way down there in Alaska! There's tons of ruts and roots here in Florida, muck, down tree limbs on the trail all the time. I didn't take any pics of the tape on my bike, but I'm doing one this weekend for a buddy, and i'll snap some pics and post them
    anymore updates on this? which valvestems did you use?

  37. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    6
    I used orange seal's stems. I did replace the tape with clear gorilla tape. Sticks much better! The sealer eventually seeped under the orange seal tape.
    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    anymore updates on this? which valvestems did you use?

  38. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    149
    The tubes coming in Fatboys seem to vary greatly.... my front tube weighed 415g on my new Fatboy (orange/blue) I think tonight I will make an attempt at tubeless gorilla tape, bontrager valve stems and stan's. I see stan's is rating their sealant to -30F/-34C

    Attachment 929295

  39. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    77
    The Gorilla tape work for a time but after somes days, the stan penetrate between the tape layer and make leak. I search for larger tape.

  40. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    149
    WHOA! Just setup my front wheel tubeless and damn what a weight savings. I used gorilla tape, 4 ounces of Stan's and a Bontrager valve stem. Here's the before and after wheel weights.

    Attachment 929385

    Attachment 929386

  41. #91
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    or you coulda just gone with a q-lite tube and saved about the same amount of weight.

    rog

  42. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    149
    sorry rog, not possible to save 860g just by swapping tubes.

  43. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bonesetter2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,732
    The bike feels so different to pick-up after the tubes have gone

    Rides better too of course. My ride was fun today - tyres gripping so much making me smile

    My Gorilla set-up is holding fine after 2 weeks

  44. #94
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Quote Originally Posted by crohnsy View Post
    sorry rog, not possible to save 860g just by swapping tubes.
    sorry, but you added weight back with stanz and tape, q-lite tubes are 250ish grams a piece. so that cuts your 860 down to 500g. then you add stanz front and rear and the difference is now only about 270g, then you add gorilla tape and yer under 200g difference..............

    rog

  45. #95
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Quote Originally Posted by crohnsy View Post
    WHOA! Just setup my front wheel tubeless and damn what a weight savings. I used gorilla tape, 4 ounces of Stan's and a Bontrager valve stem.
    ya 3.49lb down to 3.06.

    seeing as how you dropped less than a 1/2 pound per wheel going tubeless, i'd say the q-lites may be about even in the end. and no mess or fussing.

    sorry, guy

    rog

  46. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    ya 3.49lb down to 3.06.

    seeing as how you dropped less than a 1/2 pound per wheel going tubeless, i'd say the q-lites may be about even in the end. and no mess or fussing.

    sorry, guy

    rog
    For me the biggest reason to go tubeless is flat reduction, since I like to go bushwhacking on my fatbike. Last group ride we did everyone who wasn't tubeless ended up flat. You may be right that you will end up at the same weight with lightweight tubes as you will with tubeless, but you don't have the flat reduction or ride quality improvement that comes with tubeless.

    I am taking delivery of my fatboy at the end of this month at which point I'll be converting to tubeless and Bud/Lou. I'll make sure to get weights at each stage. I'll be using 4" Pegasus tape for the first time, in the past (Moonlander and Krampus) I've used Gorilla Tape.

  47. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by 4wdoutfitters View Post
    I just finished converting my fatboy to tubeless and it couldn't have been easier. I read all these comments and didn't experience any of these problems. I purchased 2 surly orange 75mm rim strips, which by the way are 40 grams heavier for both, than the specialized rim strips, but I didn't like the white with my green frame so they had to go! Then I purchased Orangeseal's fat bike kit with subzero sealant and 75mm tape. After removing the specialized rim strip and installing the surly 75mm strip (required some stretching to install which gave it a nice tight fit). Then after thoroughly cleaning the rim with alcohol and making sure it was dry, I wrapped the orange seal rim tape while pulling it tightly, first wrapping one layer to the edge of the rim( not the upright bead portion, just to where the rim turns up perpendicular at the edge.) Then a second layer on the opposite side. Just be sure you cover the little gas venting holes they punch in the rim for the welding of the rim. The tape doesn't cover the holes by very much, but don't worry it will seal. I wrapped in different directions so the tape would pull on itself and stay tight.You will get a lot of wrinkling in the middle over the rim strip, but it doesn't show through the rim strip once is all pushed down with the tube. Punch out the valve hole with a pointed punch, preferably heated so it melts the tape as you push it through. Reinstall the original tube and tire and reinflate to 20 psi. Let it sit overnight. It will completely push the orange seal tape into the cracks and crevises and will seal the first time. After sitting overnight, remove the valve core, and be very careful and only remove one side of the bead of the tire to remove the tube. Be gentle, the other bead doesn't attach very tightly to the rim. Now install the orange seal valve stem, and lay the rim with tire now installed either on top of a five gallon bucket, with the loose bead down. This is very important, if you don't put the loose bead down, you will never get the bead to seat. The weight and flex of the tire will allow the loose bead to hang down against the side of the rim. This will allow you to set the bead with a hand pump almost effortlessly. The first few pumps need to be done quickly at a fevered pitch until you don't here any air leaking out which should be very quickly. I had no problems doing both tires this way. pump them up to 20 psi to get the loose bead to seat. Now this part can be tricky. A helper might be needed but I did by myself with no problem. While supporting the tire and rim, remove the valve core of the orange seal stem. don't let the rim weight rest on the tire during this step, hold it by the spokes in the air while you install 4 oz. of orangeseal subzero formula. If you don't expect cold temps, you can use the regular orangeseal. Reinstall the stem holding the threaded part because as the core starts to get tight, the stem will spin in the rim, so hold it while you tighten the core. After you install sealant gently lay the rim back on the bucket with the side that had the loose bead down, and hook up the pump and air it up again in the same manner . You may see a little sealant around stem or seam in rim but thats ok. Pump up to 20 psi and move the tire back and forth while holding the tire rim combo horizontal and move the tire rim around like a coin when it self levels when dropped on a table. Then install rim and spin tire back and forth in both directions and go for ride, your done! The orange seal rim is no where near the weight of duct tape, and it is designed to be used with sealant. The thin crackly feeling of the tape is deceiving. Once you wrap the rim and inflate the tube overnight, that tape sticks like crazy. My tubes weighed 530 grams each, not 600+ like some of the guys had on their bikes, but losing 1060 grams in tube, adding 40 grams in rim strips, and 55 grams of sealant, comes out to 2.12 lbs reduction in rolling mass! Huge difference when I went out for a ride. Well worth it. Rode the local trails here with some small jumps and a few 2 to 3 foot drops, and roots mammy, with no issues at all. No loss of air and I run around 8 psi. Best mod so far to my fatty!
    Thank you for taking the time to post this!!!

  48. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: soloyo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    40
    I read here the rims weight 767gr so i think the heaviest weight are on the hubs. Anybody know the weight of the hubs? i,m thinng on installin tune hubs on the stock wheels of the fatboy.
    Friends, forgive me for my spanish-inglish

  49. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Thanks Wadedro. I currently have Holy Rolling Daryls and have done the foam, gorilla tape, and split tube methods. Most recently, I've used the 3M fat tape and no foam with good results. The foam typically gets compressed so much after the initial inflation that it's useless for subsequent mountings, and I've been able to get a Nate, a Husker Du, and a Bud all to seat up just fine by mounting them up with a tube first and just popping one bead. Plus, the Specialized rims don't have that deep center cavity, so I don't think the foam is necessary.
    Why did you go away from the split tube method?

  50. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    73
    Random ?
    With the Spec Sl 26 Wheelset what hubs are they using and what bushings are available with this wheelset. IE 15mm thru, 12mm rear... Hopefully they are using a hub that accepts DT bushings. Was looking at buying the wheelset just want to make sure it can meet the wider back end and thru axle front.
    Aaron Boatman
    Lake Havasu City

    Local Rides AZ stuff

    FACEBOOK

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-21-2014, 09:14 PM
  2. Actual wheel weights
    By chuckie108 in forum Weight Weenies
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-23-2013, 03:12 PM
  3. '09 Anthem x2 wheel weights
    By goatdance in forum Giant
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-04-2011, 08:20 AM
  4. Wheel weights.
    By Lino. in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-29-2011, 05:10 PM
  5. SLX Crank Weights... WITH PHOTOS!
    By ADDam in forum Weight Weenies
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 05-13-2011, 03:48 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •