Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 201 to 250 of 310
  1. #201
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by applen View Post
    Well, it's a little embarassing to keep replying to myself... but I hope this information will prove useful one day..



    I did lose pressure, after 2 days. Front was flat. I pumped it back up and it was leaking air slowly at first but did a trail ride on monday and after 40min I was probably below 2psi & had to pull off the trail and put in a tube

    The next day the rear was low I aired it back up and a day later it had lost about half the pressure. I aired it up again and it seems to be holding air now... we'll see.

    In the meantime I've fixed the front: my tape job was the problem. Sealant was weeping through the overlap in the pegasus tape. The trick here is getting out as many of the air bubles as you can in the over-lap: I think it was fine initially but eventually the airbbles started to bleed together and formed a big enough gap/path that the wheel would no longer seal. I think that's why it took a couple days to show itself. I did remember to weight the front tire this time and am updated the above post accordingly.

    Hopefully it all holds this time. The difference in ride quality is so great that I am committed to staying tubless, so I'll keep trying till it works and keep ya'll updated.
    What may help is going with 8-12 inches of overlap on the tape. 12 is overkill, I'm sure, but I did not have my pegasus tape leak.

  2. #202
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    tubez

  3. #203
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    Split tubez

  4. #204
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    Split tubez
    weigh 2x as much as pegasus tape ;-)

  5. #205
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    Split tube was so easy to get done. Weight isn't a top priority for me, ease of install and no pinch flats and I'm good

  6. #206
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    17
    touche Jisch, would love it if tape was just set-it-and-forget-it...

    my front is still leaking a bit after my second attempt: had about 1/2 oz pool of stans on the ground this morning. but it might be slowly plugging itself up...? am going to give it a few more days before i consider it 'working'

  7. #207
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    With that much sealant leaking you should be able to see where it's coming from, if it's coming from the bead seat, perhaps it will seal, but if it's coming from the rim cutouts, then it's getting under the tape and probably will not seal.

  8. #208
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by applen View Post
    touche Jisch, would love it if tape was just set-it-and-forget-it...

    my front is still leaking a bit after my second attempt: had about 1/2 oz pool of stans on the ground this morning. but it might be slowly plugging itself up...? am going to give it a few more days before i consider it 'working'
    As much as Jisch has good luck with split tube, and quite frankly it works with a slight weight penalty, I have had just as good of luck with taping. I have been using my various types of tape job tubeless wheels for over 4 years without one failure. This varies from MTB to Fat wheels. The set up is key and maybe I have been lucky. Now with your issue of the front leaking, if it is the tape that's not sealed, I don't think it will seal AND last. Once tape starts to come undone, it's lost it's integrity. That's where set up and prep matters most. Once there is latex on the rim, it takes a lot to clean it appropriately to get a good seal.

    Good luck to you either way. They have 24" tubes that work well for the split tube method that may help save weight.

  9. #209
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    Ordered all the stuff to go split tube on mine as well, and will be doing so after LBS surgery since they have to build a hub into the rim and I don't want to re-do it...so I'll be reporting back.

    That said, I'm going to be rolling the SE and will have the 60TPI wire bead version, so maybe it'll do me a solid. If it's gonna be heavier...

  10. #210
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    17
    i think the tape is going to be fine, it's just a question of how much overlap i'm willing to go for. and yes, i'm pretty sure it's a tape over-lap leak again, but a much smaller one this time. tire is holding air just fine today.

    i initially wanted to go split-tube but i couldn't find a wide enough 24" or 20" presta tube that actually went out over the rim bead (much less covered the drilled holes), without a pretty big weight penalty... roughly equivalent to just over 2x wraps of pegasus tape... so i'll keep trying to find that balance (i've currently only got 7-9" of overlap).

    i wouldn't say i care about weight... but i DO care about rotational weight that is so far from the hub:

    right now going tubeless saves over 3 N*m or 2.2 ft*lbs of startup (and stopping) torque. and that makes a huge difference in feel.

  11. #211
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    Are there not some kind of very light 24x2.3" tubes? Cause all I have left to buy is the tubes, but if not maybe I'll get that race tape once I check out the hole situation later when the bike arrives...

  12. #212
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thecanoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,027
    The q tube weight penalty is so minor that it doesn't make sense to stay away from this method. My ML'r has been flawless for three years and now my DT Swiss BR2250's on my Pivot.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Santa Cruz Tallboy
    Moonlander

  13. #213
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    just got a pair of those to run as tubes. pretty light.

  14. #214
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    Maybe my LBS has them cheaper :P

  15. #215
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    they should be cheaper.

  16. #216
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,017
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow_Thyroid_Bike View Post
    Maybe my LBS has them cheaper :P
    You can also get the 24"-2.3-3.0 specialized tubes. I've used them with good results. They weight in the 230-240gr range.

    Took a lot of figuring to get a tubeless method lighter than them, once you include the sealant. With shrink wrap/Stans I've been able to get below the weight of the tiny tubes, and have the benefits of puncture prevention and better traction. That being said, come winter, I'll probably switch back to tubes for ease of changing tires.
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon
    '15 Fatboy Expert
    '15 Crossrip Ltd

  17. #217
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    You can also get the 24"-2.3-3.0 specialized tubes. I've used them with good results. They weight in the 230-240gr range.

    Took a lot of figuring to get a tubeless method lighter than them, once you include the sealant. With shrink wrap/Stans I've been able to get below the weight of the tiny tubes, and have the benefits of puncture prevention and better traction. That being said, come winter, I'll probably switch back to tubes for ease of changing tires.
    the q-tubes are 188 grams so a fair bit lighter than the spesh ones. add 2oz of stans to each and yer still doing well and that'll take care of most punctures from thorns and such.

    i've never had issues with traction on any surface with my worn out 3.8 knards at 8psi so tubless hasn't been a consideration there.

  18. #218
    Specialized Fatboy
    Reputation: NRS1FREAK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    184
    ^^Got the specialized tubes too and haven't looked back since. I've had a puncture on each tube once, but patched them and haven't had any issues since. BTW, one of the punctures was a... DRY WALL SCREW and this was on a mountain trail not any where near civilization...

  19. #219
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,017
    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    the q-tubes are 188 grams so a fair bit lighter than the spesh ones. add 2oz of stans to each and yer still doing well and that'll take care of most punctures from thorns and such.

    i've never had issues with traction on any surface with my worn out 3.8 knards at 8psi so tubless hasn't been a consideration there.
    Yeah- that is a decent savings. I've thought of trying them, but seen a few tales of ripped valve stems and seam failures, especially when using on the bigger 4.6"+ tires. How do they hold up when deflated and inflated for multiple tire changes?
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon
    '15 Fatboy Expert
    '15 Crossrip Ltd

  20. #220
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Yeah- that is a decent savings. I've thought of trying them, but seen a few tales of ripped valve stems and seam failures, especially when using on the bigger 4.6"+ tires. How do they hold up when deflated and inflated for multiple tire changes?
    been using q-lites and regular 26x2.4-2.75 with no issues with 3.8's on 65's. got the 24's for the additional weight savings more recently but will report back once i get more time with them.

  21. #221
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmboarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    204
    Name:  ziptape.jpg
Views: 276
Size:  15.3 KB

    I have searched and watched, but no one seems to be using Zip System flashing tape. I picked up some while getting other supplies at my local lumber yard. It is thin and stretchy, but sticks very well. I used one wrap, overlapping about 6 inches, set it with the tube, pulled out the tube from one side, and filled with 8oz. Orange Seal. It's now going on 5 months without any leaks. The stuff is light and amazing.

  22. #222
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    Quote Originally Posted by dmboarder View Post
    Name:  ziptape.jpg
Views: 276
Size:  15.3 KB

    I have searched and watched, but no one seems to be using Zip System flashing tape. I picked up some while getting other supplies at my local lumber yard. It is thin and stretchy, but sticks very well. I used one wrap, overlapping about 6 inches, set it with the tube, pulled out the tube from one side, and filled with 8oz. Orange Seal. It's now going on 5 months without any leaks. The stuff is light and amazing.
    Go on...

    Like it's wide enough to get up the sidewall and cover the holes? Or did you do the holes separately?

  23. #223
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by applen View Post
    i think the tape is going to be fine, it's just a question of how much overlap i'm willing to go for. and yes, i'm pretty sure it's a tape over-lap leak again, but a much smaller one this time. tire is holding air just fine today.

    i initially wanted to go split-tube but i couldn't find a wide enough 24" or 20" presta tube that actually went out over the rim bead (much less covered the drilled holes), without a pretty big weight penalty... roughly equivalent to just over 2x wraps of pegasus tape... so i'll keep trying to find that balance (i've currently only got 7-9" of overlap).

    i wouldn't say i care about weight... but i DO care about rotational weight that is so far from the hub:

    right now going tubeless saves over 3 N*m or 2.2 ft*lbs of startup (and stopping) torque. and that makes a huge difference in feel.
    I do it for rotational weight loss and and the flat protection. I am a weight weenie at heart.

  24. #224
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmboarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    204
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow_Thyroid_Bike View Post
    Go on...

    Like it's wide enough to get up the sidewall and cover the holes? Or did you do the holes separately?
    It's the perfect width for stock Fatboy wheels. Covered in one swipe.

  25. #225
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    Just one size? Looks like Lowes might have it:

    Shop Panel Tape at Lowes.com

    But 25 bucks is pretty rough, and its not actually in stock near me...

  26. #226
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    125
    Came back looking for split tube information as I've failed twice with going tubeless on my rear Fatboy rim. Both attempts have been with 3m transparent duct tape. Strange thing is the first attempt on the front wheel is holding fine but the rear has failed with both attempts. I have enough tape I'm going to make on more attempt but if that also fails I'll probably go split tube.

    Can someone direct me to a 20" or 24" tube that will work on my rim and has a removable valve core??

  27. #227
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    I use schrader valved tubes specifically because of the removable core. I'll get the exact part number later and post it. I moved the rim strip so that the valve hole comes out through one of the triangular holes rather than the real valve hole - I didn't want to drill out the rim as there's not much room.

  28. #228
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    125
    I was looking for Presta's with the removable core but couldn't find any. I'm assuming they don't make one in a 20 or 24?

  29. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    93
    I've had success with 2.8in Gorilla tape. Split the roll for the sides, full width down the middle. Before taping, I filled the vent holes with clear RTV. Put a bead around the valve, then cranked it down. With the CGs didn't need to use a tube, they set right up using a compressor. Small leaks in a few spots that sealed right up after giving the wheel a good bounce or two. A spray bottle with really soapy water helps find those pin hole leaks.
    Specialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-img_20150504_144834799-1-.jpg

  30. #230
    banned
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,807
    24 x 2.4-2.75 q tube prestas have removable cores and retail for 8-10 bucks each.

    easy peasy stanz fill ups.

  31. #231
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    Quote Originally Posted by newmarketrog View Post
    24 x 2.4-2.75 q tube prestas have removable cores and retail for 8-10 bucks each.

    easy peasy stanz fill ups.
    Perfect. Thanks.

  32. #232
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmboarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    204
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow_Thyroid_Bike View Post
    Just one size? Looks like Lowes might have it:

    Shop Panel Tape at Lowes.com

    But 25 bucks is pretty rough, and its not actually in stock near me...
    That looks like the one, it comes in 3.75" or 6". Yep, it's $25, but it's 90ft long and works so well. You can do 10-12 wheels per roll, which makes it $3ish per (plus the valve stem).

  33. #233
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by applen View Post
    my front is still leaking a bit after my second attempt: had about 1/2 oz pool of stans on the ground this morning. but it might be slowly plugging itself up...? am going to give it a few more days before i consider it 'working'
    it did come through the rim cutouts... so it likely was coming through my tape job again. but...

    it's been a couple days and not loosing pressure since a 2hr ride on monday night. Hopefully it stays that way.Specialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-imag2540.jpg

    update: haven't lost any pressure in a week and have actually been airing down a little bit. I've put close to 100 miles on the bike in this past week including a 5hr ride on Saturday... NO ISSUES!!! I'm putting these tires down as SEALED!
    Last edited by applen; 06-08-2015 at 02:24 PM. Reason: update: more data

  34. #234
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    Alright so I got the Fatboy SE and have about 15 miles on it now...dying to go tubeless in part to get this thing under 30lbs. So apparently the compilation of options is:

    • Q-tubes 24x2.4-2.75 - ghetto tubeless, reliable
    • Spesh tubes 24x2.3-3.0 (a little heavier) - ghetto tubeless, reliable
    • Pegasus tape (4") - seems fairly good but not perfect, 2-3 data points
    • Zip Systems tape - seems good but almost nobody uses it, one data point
    • Gorilla tape - seems to suck 50/50 with lots of data
    • Tyvek tape - seems to suck 50/50 with not much data


    So, before I spend a bunch of money trying a bunch of crap that doesn't work (already have some Tyvek tape to return):

    Is there any risk or downside to going ghetto tubeless? Can I bomb down rocks, roots, whatever I'm currently doing on the boat anchor tubes without worrying the tire is going to slip off or anything? Seems weird, but I'm open to the idea, just want to be safe. I tend to ride as fast as I possibly can. P sure I have the wire-bead GCs, too.

    The whole point is for me to to be able to ride just as fast/aggressively/confidently, with lighter tires, at lower pressures so I can stop bouncing, and carry less **** in my pack. Light Q-tubes the way to go still?

  35. #235
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    I have been riding my Fatboy aggressively on tubeless for over a year (didn't I just type this?). As far as I have found, there are no downsides to split tube tubeless (I think we should start calling it this instead of ghetto tubeless - bad marketing).

    You still need to carry a tube, nothing is perfect and you could slice your sidewall to the point where Stans won't seal it. In my time on tubeless I've had to put a tube in once (not on a Fatboy) when I sliced a sidewall and my sealant was dry.

    I tried the light tube thing for a month and had 3 pinch flats. I ride on very rocky trails, and maybe I'm clumsier than other riders (I don't think I am), but I can't deal with that many flats.

  36. #236
    .44
    Reputation: stremf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    947
    Seriously, all that tape, foam, hassle isn't worth it. Unless you have a tubeless specific rim, just go split tube. The ONLY downside is IF you plan on changing out the tire, it will be very tricky or you need to buy a new tube.

    24 x 2.7" is what I use (Presta Valve).

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...5&category=597

  37. #237
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by stremf View Post
    Seriously, all that tape, foam, hassle isn't worth it. Unless you have a tubeless specific rim, just go split tube. The ONLY downside is IF you plan on changing out the tire, it will be very tricky or you need to buy a new tube.

    24 x 2.7" is what I use (Presta Valve).

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...5&category=597
    Tape is pretty easy, especially if you aren't stingy with the overlap like I was (that's what killed my first attempt). 2 full wraps of the Pegasus tape (which would have completely eliminated the issues I was seeing) is still lighter than all the tubes I weighed... just barely. Plus you can re-use it when you swap tires.. and you don't have to trim the excess (if you don't care about re-use) because tape stays in place when you mount / dis-mount tires.

    But yeah, split tube is pretty easy too!

  38. #238
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    Quote Originally Posted by stremf View Post
    Seriously, all that tape, foam, hassle isn't worth it. Unless you have a tubeless specific rim, just go split tube. The ONLY downside is IF you plan on changing out the tire, it will be very tricky or you need to buy a new tube.

    24 x 2.7" is what I use (Presta Valve).

    https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...5&category=597
    I've swapped tires four or five times with split tube, it's not that hard even with the tube cut close, I have less than a 1/4" sticking out of mine.

  39. #239
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I tried to do tubeless with tape on the front of my Fatboy. I didn't cover those holes individually instead I ran two strips of tape around the rim, with the tape going almost all the way to the edge of the rim.

    I could never get the tire to hold air for more than an hour or so. I looked at it a week later (much riding in between with the tube back in) and found that the tape did not adhere to anything in there - rimstrip or rim. The tape had pulled back from the edge exposing those holes, which is where I was losing air. It was really easy to pull the tape off, which is not good - it wasn't stuck to anything.

    I am not sure if I got a bad roll of tape or there is something on the rim that makes the tape not stick. I did it inside at room temp, so it wasn't a cold thing. I ended up going split tube with the front (which worked great and is probably about the same weight as two layers of tape). I'm going to take your lead here and try the back tire with tape again, but this time I'll wipe the entire rim with alcohol, maybe there's something on the rim.

    I'll be interested to hear your longer term review, and if the tape stays in place.

    The rim has a good bead pocket and I expect that it should hold the bead in place better than some rims - no need for foam or anything else to create a ridge.

    could be something as simple as the manufacturing oil on the rim. Did you take some rubbing alcohol and clean the area before sticking tape?

  40. #240
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    Yes, I did.

  41. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,017
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow_Thyroid_Bike View Post
    Alright so I got the Fatboy SE and have about 15 miles on it now...dying to go tubeless in part to get this thing under 30lbs. So apparently the compilation of options is:

    • Q-tubes 24x2.4-2.75 - ghetto tubeless, reliable
    • Spesh tubes 24x2.3-3.0 (a little heavier) - ghetto tubeless, reliable
    • Pegasus tape (4") - seems fairly good but not perfect, 2-3 data points
    • Zip Systems tape - seems good but almost nobody uses it, one data point
    • Gorilla tape - seems to suck 50/50 with lots of data
    • Tyvek tape - seems to suck 50/50 with not much data


    So, before I spend a bunch of money trying a bunch of crap that doesn't work (already have some Tyvek tape to return):

    Is there any risk or downside to going ghetto tubeless? Can I bomb down rocks, roots, whatever I'm currently doing on the boat anchor tubes without worrying the tire is going to slip off or anything? Seems weird, but I'm open to the idea, just want to be safe. I tend to ride as fast as I possibly can. P sure I have the wire-bead GCs, too.

    The whole point is for me to to be able to ride just as fast/aggressively/confidently, with lighter tires, at lower pressures so I can stop bouncing, and carry less **** in my pack. Light Q-tubes the way to go still?
    I think the key to reliable sealing is completely sealing the tire to the tape/tube/wrap. The fewer seams the less areas for possible leaks.

    If you are looking for the lightest weight, shrink wrap is the way to go. I'm not sure if it reuseable though, although the roll I bought was $8 for 1000ft so I can do quite a few rims. http://www.menards.com/main/home-dec...p-2046722.html

    Using a duct tape rim strip, 10 wraps of shrink, Stans valves, and 4oz of Stans I was able to shave 70-100 gr from the S tubes.
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon
    '15 Fatboy Expert
    '15 Crossrip Ltd

  42. #242
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmboarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    204
    I'm gonna change out my rim strip to a different color and when I do, I'll make a video with the Zip tape.

  43. #243
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmboarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    204
    I pulled off one of the tires that has been mounted with Zip tape since January without a leak. You can see how it kind of stretches and forms to the wheel and it's wide enough to not need an overlap. The tape is fairly thin, so it acts like the stretch wrap, but is thick enough to be strong. You can also see a tape joint where it hasn't lifted at all. I used Orange Seal on this particular setup, but I'm not sure if it makes a difference.

    Specialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-img_4590.jpgSpecialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-img_4591.jpg

  44. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    That's a really attractive option, but I pulled my tire off last night (got a damn flat already w/ tube) and my extra holes are near the outer edge like some have reported

  45. #245
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dr Saw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    146
    I posted a new thread, but I though it would be helpful here

    Spez Fatboy SL tubeless success (for now)- Mtbr.com
    What Hill?

  46. #246
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dmboarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    204
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow_Thyroid_Bike View Post
    That's a really attractive option, but I pulled my tire off last night (got a damn flat already w/ tube) and my extra holes are near the outer edge like some have reported
    The Zip tape covers bead to bead. It would cover the little holes.

  47. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    183
    So it's basically a Zip vs Pegasus dilemma at this point! 30 bucks and slow shipping either way. Almost pulled the trigger on the Pegasus stuff this morning but got busy at work :|

    Seems the Zip might be less weight?

  48. #248
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow_Thyroid_Bike View Post
    Seems the Zip might be less weight?
    based on...?

    Peasus goes edge-to-edge plus a few milimeters... I never did anything with all those holes drilled in the SL rims

  49. #249
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    125
    Well my Scotch transparent duct tape attempt on the rear has failed after probably 5 attempts. The craziest thing though is that the front is still holding fine but the rear just won't seal up. I made one last attempt and thought I had it but it eventually failed before I even rode it.

    I came back to this thread looking for tube info for split tube and almost got hooked into the Zip tape but the more I thought about it I'm done with the tape idea. I'm looking for the best deal on the 24 X 2.7 Q tubes and pulling the trigger.

  50. #250
    Loser
    Reputation: Jisch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,499
    I spent way too much time and money trying to make other things work. Split tube just works, I don't fully understand the reluctance to use it. I guess some tape set ups are lighter, but i see some with so many layers of tape it just can't be lighter.

Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Are my stock Specialized rims Tubless Ready?
    By Burt4x4 in forum Specialized
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-25-2014, 10:32 PM
  2. Tubless w/ non tubless tires?
    By centershot in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-17-2014, 08:45 AM
  3. I want to go tubless...but
    By vinnyl26 in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 05-11-2012, 10:26 AM
  4. Replies: 11
    Last Post: 01-26-2012, 05:34 PM
  5. Tubless help
    By gsheffer in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 06-19-2011, 09:17 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •