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  1. #101
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    I need to put my dropper on the Fatboy, I relented to my weight weenie inner self and went for the Tompson post instead. When you hold the two in your hands, the weight difference is pretty shocking.

  2. #102
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    My successful albeit frustrating experience going tubeless with Specialized Fatboy

    Hello Everyone,

    I've been reading this thread and spent about 3 weeks converting my Specialized Fatboy Expert rims tubeless. I was able to finally do it, and I'd like to share my experience to save some of you the frustration.

    Attempt 1: Orange Seal Fat Tire Kit | Results: Epic Fail

    The tape included in the kit was not able to seal the rim at 15 psi with a compressor. It also doesn't appear to be sticky enough. I tried twice, still unsuccessful. Note that I did not put anything else on the specialized rim strip. What I learned from this experience was that I may need the Sillplate foam from home depot that everyone is using.

    Attempt 2: Clear Gorilla Tape with Sill Plate Foam from Home Depot | Result: Failed

    I place the sill plate foam in the center with the original specialized rim stip on the rim and had 3 layers of tape:2 on the sides, and one on the center. I made sure I covered the tiny holes on the rim. Note that one roll of tape is enough for only one rim. There were no wrinkles and It looked beautiful!. I re-used the Orange seal and was able to air up the tires to 15psi with a compressor. Both tires were flat the next morning with alot of orange stains at the cutouts (orange seal sealant). What I learned this time was that through my various experimentation, the pressure may have been too high and overcame the adhesive.

    Attempt 3: Clear Gorilla Tape with Sill Plate AND lower pressure | Results: Success!!!!!

    Same setup as attempt number 2: A layer of tape on each side plus the center with the sill plate foam on the center. Here's what's different. I place a tube in each tire and aired it up to 15 psi overnight to compress the foam and tape. I then pull the tube out make sure not to break the seat on the other side, pour sealant (8oz) and apply soapy liquid to the tire sidewall. This is done to ensure the bead will seat at lower pressure. Next, pump the tires up to 10 Psi (IMPORTANT!) with a compressor. with the soapy liquid, you will hear the bead seat. Do the Stan Shake Dance. My rear tire remained aired the next morning, but my front was flat. I pumped it up and it has been fine since then.

    I went out for a ride and the tire pressure did not drop post ride. Based on my experience, I believe that 10psi will be the highest pressure this setup can tolerate, so keep that in mind. Good Luck!!

    Specialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-img_0951.jpg

  3. #103
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    The difference in weight between what you have there and split tube is negligible. Split tube is 100% (definitely exaggerating there) more effective and you don't have to worry about the sealant undermining the tape.

    I had a really hard time getting the regular Gorilla tape to stick effectively to the rim - I'm not sure if there's a coating on the rim (I tried wiping it down with alcohol) or what, but that tape just did not want to stick to that rim. I have been running my Fatboy split-tube tubeless without any foam for 4 months now with only one burp failure (running low pressure for snow and ended up on some rocky stuff), even then I could reinflate with my backpack pump.

    I don't think the foam is really needed as there is a nice shelf for the bead to hang on once you get it up and over, unlike my FB4 rim that burped all the time until I put some foam in.

  4. #104
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    So, for those rolling this summer, how much stans are we getting away with for a new setup? 2 scoops or 3? X oz? I'm generally a 2 scooper for a new 29r tire, 1 for a remount.

  5. #105
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    Specialized Fat Boy: How I went tubless

    I've been running 6 oz since April, mounted on holy rolling Darryl's, I got my first puncture during a race this weekend, Stan's sprayed out for about 45 sec but it got me through the last lap and I only lost a couple pounds of air

  6. #106
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    I followed the instructions at the link below this afternoon on my front tire except for at the end after adding the Stan's I only inflated to 10 PSI instead of the recommended 30 PSI (never went over 20 PSI during any of the steps since the the recommended pressure for the fatboy rims/ground controls are 5-20 PSI). I used the same tape as he used and probably used about 8oz (I know it was .51 lbs) of stans instead of 6oz. That much Stan's was probably overkill because I can really hear it sloshing around inside the tire. It took me about 90 minutes and that was with taking the time to weight things and take pictures. I am hoping I still have pressure in the morning!

    Front wheel w/ stock Specialized tubes: 7.83 lbs
    Tubeless without Stans: 6.92 lbs
    Tubeless w/ Stans: 7.43 lbs.

    Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life

    Some extra weights:
    Rim, Skewer, and Rim strip: 3.33 lbs
    Tire: 3.35 lbs
    Tube: 1.12 lbs

  7. #107
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    I built a new wheel for the Bluto, so I had to move my Floater over. I moved over the split tube, put the tire on added some Stans then wrapped a ratchet strap around the tire. I went around the tire and pulled the beads out towards edge as much as I could (not much). I was able to get it to air up with a floor pump. I went up to 20 psi and the beads slid out over the ledge with a pop. After a few hours I dropped the tire down to 9 or 10 and its been holding air since (6 or 7 hours). Front to back it took me about 10 minutes.

  8. #108
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    Also forgot to mention I used these red valve stems. They are an exact match on color to the red spoke nipples of the expert.

    Amazon.com : American Classic Valve Stems For T/Less Wheels, Anodized Red : Tire Valve Tools : Sports & Outdoors

  9. #109
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    Pressure dropped from 10 PSI to ~3-4 PSI in about 15 hours. I re-inflated to 10 PSI. I'm hoping whatever slow leak existed was filled by the Stans.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by pd4ever View Post
    Pressure dropped from 10 PSI to ~3-4 PSI in about 15 hours. I re-inflated to 10 PSI. I'm hoping whatever slow leak existed was filled by the Stans.
    Very normal, after a ride or two they will probably seal up perfectly. Get that sealant splashing around everywhere.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by pd4ever View Post
    Pressure dropped from 10 PSI to ~3-4 PSI in about 15 hours. I re-inflated to 10 PSI. I'm hoping whatever slow leak existed was filled by the Stans.
    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    Very normal, after a ride or two they will probably seal up perfectly. Get that sealant splashing around everywhere.
    I don't think that should be considered "normal" at all. They should be aired up and good to go if the tubeless setup is good.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    I don't think that should be considered "normal" at all. They should be aired up and good to go if the tubeless setup is good.
    If this was a specified "tubeless tire and rim, I would agree with you, but we are talking about tape, non tubeless rim design and porous sidewalls. Also, take a close look at specs for that tire. It is NOT even rated for TR or 2bliss. Very often, and think the masses of any tubeless thread here would agree, as well as anyone who has work with Specialized tires, that the sidewalls and even the bead seat area, often "like a ride or two to get the sealant all around to seal all the micro porous areas. It seems to work better than simply shaking the tire for a few minutes. After a ride they always seal better. I suppose if you wanted to shake them for a long while it would seal up just as good. I always shake for a few minutes and rely on the ride to really seal it up.

    My guess is after a few rides (a few hours of riding) they seal up fine, given any blatant errors in set up. But if that were the case they would not have held eve 3-4 psi overnight. Hopefully PD4ever will share his experience for all to see if it does work.

  13. #113
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    I had to fill it up again at the trailhead today (about 6 hours after I had filled up last). It had dropped to about 5 PSI. Rode for 2 hours. It seems to be holding now. Will update again tomorrow morning.

  14. #114
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    I wish someone could fix the title of this thread, every time I see "tubless" it bugs me.

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    Re: Specialized Fat Boy: How I went tubless

    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I wish someone could fix the title of this thread, every time I see "tubless" it bugs me.
    Tubless tires are real bro. And apparently very expensive. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Earth...151731450.html

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by pd4ever View Post
    I had to fill it up again at the trailhead today (about 6 hours after I had filled up last). It had dropped to about 5 PSI. Rode for 2 hours. It seems to be holding now. Will update again tomorrow morning.
    Tire was completely flat this morning. Filled it up to 15 PSI this time (previously had not gone over 10 with sealant only). Going to see if that makes any difference. I have yet to see any Stans come out anywhere so I'm confused on where it might be leaking out.

  17. #117
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    If you pull your tire off you should be able to see evidence of where the Stans has gone. I just pulled apart a wheel done with tape and, while it was airtight before I pulled it apart, I could clearly see where the Stans had made it under the tape - I have no idea if that would have continued or if it was sealed there.

    Split tube, easy money, just saying.

  18. #118
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    I'm going to give it a few more days to see if I can get it to work. Others have had success so it is possible. Luckily its a very slow leak so I can still ride on it in the meantime. I'll pull the wheel apart later this week if it doesn't seal up on its own between now and then. I should probably also go ahead and order some small tubes just in case I need to go split tube.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    If this was a specified "tubeless tire and rim, I would agree with you, but we are talking about tape, non tubeless rim design and porous sidewalls. Also, take a close look at specs for that tire. It is NOT even rated for TR or 2bliss. Very often, and think the masses of any tubeless thread here would agree, as well as anyone who has work with Specialized tires, that the sidewalls and even the bead seat area, often "like a ride or two to get the sealant all around to seal all the micro porous areas. It seems to work better than simply shaking the tire for a few minutes. After a ride they always seal better. I suppose if you wanted to shake them for a long while it would seal up just as good. I always shake for a few minutes and rely on the ride to really seal it up.

    My guess is after a few rides (a few hours of riding) they seal up fine, given any blatant errors in set up. But if that were the case they would not have held eve 3-4 psi overnight. Hopefully PD4ever will share his experience for all to see if it does work.
    bpd, all of us who have done tubeless for years and many miles are doing it without "tubeless" tires, using tape, and on non-tubeless rims. Granted, there is a difference between the thread count tires and I would only do tubeless on high thread count tires. You talk about the "masses" on the tubeless threads. The "masses" on these threads are trying to make their wheels lighter and often want the easiest and cheapest methods. This often makes for unreliable tubeless systems. I agree that the "shake" thing is a bunch of crap, riding the bike is much better. If the setup is so marginal that they don't hold air without Stans then the setup is too fragile and is likely to fail when riding at lower tire pressures out on the trail.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by alphazz View Post
    I agree that the "shake" thing is a bunch of crap, riding the bike is much better. If the setup is so marginal that they don't hold air without Stans then the setup is too fragile and is likely to fail when riding at lower tire pressures out on the trail.
    Agreed, If the set up (tape job) is bad, or the BSD is a loose sloppy fit, nothing will fix it. My experience with those problems has been it will never seal, except maybe with the split tube method. My explanation was more towards the theory it had been set up correctly, but the tires just needed to get the sealant throughout the tire. I find that most tires bleed down air pressure of initial install until I ride them. I have had great luck and longevity with tape and Specialized 2bliss tires, even the Specialized fat tire, but seeing as it doesn't even have the rating of 2bliss, I can see manufacturing varying widely between tires.

    Either way I hope it works for him. I was fortunate with my Fatboy and tubeless set up.

  21. #121
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    Tire was flat again. Filled it up to 19 PSI and finally got Stans to start coming out around the bead. Did the Stans shake and filled it up to 19 PSI again once all the leaks stopped. It held pressure for 24 hours. Dropped the PSI down to 8 last night and this morning its still holding. Going to ride it tonight. It looks like the step I was missing was getting the pressure high enough to force the Stans through any leaks on the bead. I was keeping the pressure lower though so it didn't leak through the tape which since I haven't taken the tire off I'm not sure if it did or not.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by pd4ever View Post
    Tire was flat again. Filled it up to 19 PSI and finally got Stans to start coming out around the bead. Did the Stans shake and filled it up to 19 PSI again once all the leaks stopped. It held pressure for 24 hours. Dropped the PSI down to 8 last night and this morning its still holding. Going to ride it tonight. It looks like the step I was missing was getting the pressure high enough to force the Stans through any leaks on the bead. I was keeping the pressure lower though so it didn't leak through the tape which since I haven't taken the tire off I'm not sure if it did or not.
    Hope it works for you. That's bouncing them around while in a ride seems to work better, it gets the sealant everywhere, much better than the shake. I don't remember how much sealant you put in. The first application I used 8 oz, maybe a little more, just to make sure the tire got seal up. Mainly around the bead area and the valve area for me. The sidewalls of my tires were better than expected. The Specialized tubeless valves I used don't seem to seal on the rim that well and any slight movement of them you can usually hear the air leak until the sealant really sets up well. I've had better luck the Stan's valves. As long as your tape job was good, you should be all set.
    Last edited by bpd131; 07-18-2014 at 07:44 AM.

  23. #123
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    Still holding at 8 PSI since yesterday morning. Rode on it last night for an hour and a half with no issues. Going to convert my rear wheel to tubeless this weekend.

  24. #124
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    had a sidewall tear last night that no amount of stanz would take care of. one inch gash in the new knard. i live in sharp rock land. thank god for tire boots! tire rode perfect this am

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    I converted mine this week and it was really simple. I chose to use the Pegasus Racing tape (pg 4 of this thread).
    I pulled off the tire and tubes, alcohol cleaned the rims, applied the tape (no trimming for fit - some stuck out) and then re-installed the tires and tubes for a day. I've found this step key when using gorilla tape on my 29ers, it really helps mold that tape into the rim. Pulled the tire and tubes, and ran a razor along the top edge of the rim to trip off any overhanging tape - super easy trim. Then it was Stans valves in w/cores out, tires on, 3 scoops of Stans per tire, then compressor to seat (i have a modified high flow from the compressor to help with that), it only took 6-7 pounds to seat anyway. Pumped up to 10 and shook/bounced.
    Then the clincher --- RIDE. You've got to get the flex of a ride to get that sealant everywhere. I ended up bleeding off air until I was comfortable over the rocks and this morning, it's exactly where I ended last night.

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    OK, partial "fail" report. Got back from a weeks vacation to find a fairly flat front tire. Weird thing was the sealant around the rim strip, nothing from the bead areas. Aired up, rode. No issues, but less air the next day. FWIW, I did the back tire exactly the same, and it's just fine.

    I just pulled it and I can see where sealant (stans) slowly is weaving it's way between the 2 layers of tape. I'll contribute some of this to the tape, as in, I didn't clean the outside of the tape prior to sealing, so I didn't get great adhesion tape to tape. But more of this has to do with the wheel design. There's no "flat" spot all the way across the rim with the alternating spokes. So, I'm going to create my own with a piece of foam and finish my tape end just past it. I'll try to snap a pic to show what I did.

  27. #127
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    Why not just do split tube? no worries.

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    Specialized Fat Boy: How I went tubless

    I liked the tape from the weight standpoint, but have just shown the weakness in it. Split will be soon enough. Right now, I've got a lot of tape, and time.

    Honestly, the coolest part is the Stan's booger that I have. It looks like a piece of coral.

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  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by one4teen View Post
    OK, partial "fail" report. Got back from a weeks vacation to find a fairly flat front tire. Weird thing was the sealant around the rim strip, nothing from the bead areas. Aired up, rode. No issues, but less air the next day. FWIW, I did the back tire exactly the same, and it's just fine.

    I just pulled it and I can see where sealant (stans) slowly is weaving it's way between the 2 layers of tape. I'll contribute some of this to the tape, as in, I didn't clean the outside of the tape prior to sealing, so I didn't get great adhesion tape to tape. But more of this has to do with the wheel design. There's no "flat" spot all the way across the rim with the alternating spokes. So, I'm going to create my own with a piece of foam and finish my tape end just past it. I'll try to snap a pic to show what I did.
    Did you put the wheel in water to see where the air was leaking from? If not....?

    Apply the tape tighter.

  30. #130
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    I can't wait to get the booger out of my 4.8's.
    I like turtles

  31. #131
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    Nope, no water needed, I could see where the stans was coming out as a slow drip. When removing the tape yesterday, it was quite obvious what was happening.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post

    Part number 3323-4 Black Leading Edge Tape, 4 inch x 100 feet, 11 mil Thickness from www.PegasusAutoRacing.com.
    photo shows that it is "Polyken" brand tape. A Quick Googling suggests is Polyken 510, MFG part no. 1117634. Is there a "510" marking on the inside of the roll?

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    Specialized Fat Boy: How I went tubless


    Here's that booger. Scoop for scale.

    Inside of the roll says polyken. No numbers.



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    added bike type.

    First post here. Just to say beware the new Fatboy SL rims. Mine are different than what is shown in this thread. The "vent" holes are now directly at the radius at side wall. Taping must be done up and out the rim wall.

    So....I went ghetto split tube. BOOM at 20 psi after sitting all night....torn bead....dented rim from flying across the room. Straightened rim and tried again with other BRAND NEW Ground Control tire, BOOM at 19 psi after sitting 2 days. Ordered clincher to replace rim with. 2 brand new Ground controls too.

    This was still cheaper than an ER visit, but dang....
    this is on the 2015 Fatboy Pro

  35. #135
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    Wow, that stinks! I haven't every had mine above 15psi (when seating the beads), now I definitely will not go up higher!

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    It sure isn't pretty...heh. The guage is accurate too. The beads tore inside the rubber. All wavy now. An excuse to try the Mulefuts I suppose.

    At least I got a screaming deal on the Pro.

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    This thread is really scary. I'm all set to convert to tubeless once bike gets here, but geesh has anyone had any luck going tubeless on the Specialized Fatboy? My plan was to trim back the rim piece inside to allow for more surface area for the tape to stick. I was going to use the Polyken tape and Stans sealant. But I'm starting to think this is just a waste of time and money and to just live with the risk of pinch flats.

  38. #138
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    I've had my Fatboy tubeless since February, zero issues. Split tube FTW.

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    Specialized Fat Boy: How I went tubless

    ^ gotta agree with this. I'm redoing my tape on only one wheel, but for the cheap price of 2 tubes to split, you're still ahead of the game vs the tape.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Edgewater View Post
    This thread is really scary. I'm all set to convert to tubeless once bike gets here, but geesh has anyone had any luck going tubeless on the Specialized Fatboy? My plan was to trim back the rim piece inside to allow for more surface area for the tape to stick. I was going to use the Polyken tape and Stans sealant. But I'm starting to think this is just a waste of time and money and to just live with the risk of pinch flats.
    I've had very good luck. With tape too. Both the Pegasus tape and the 8898 tape. 8 months worth to be exact.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    I've had very good luck. With tape too. Both the Pegasus tape and the 8898 tape. 8 months worth to be exact.
    Any tricks to share? Did you trim the 4" Pegasus tape at all?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edgewater View Post
    This thread is really scary. I'm all set to convert to tubeless once bike gets here, but geesh has anyone had any luck going tubeless on the Specialized Fatboy? My plan was to trim back the rim piece inside to allow for more surface area for the tape to stick. I was going to use the Polyken tape and Stans sealant. But I'm starting to think this is just a waste of time and money and to just live with the risk of pinch flats.
    Scary enough for me too. I didn't care about re-dos, the time and materials, cost. But when these things do let go it is dramatic and at twenty something mph I'd venture to say deadly at the right place and time.

    There are better choices in rims for tubeless. The newest Fatboy SL rims I have require tape or split tube up the sides because of the new location of the "vent" holes. I think the beads on mine tore because of the increased rim diameter using split tubes. They (brand new GC's with 25 miles) looked to be seated fine (one for days) before they exploded not even ridden on.

    Do not even consider running or inflating these at their max rating of 20 psi after split tube. In my experience they can/will fail at 19 psi just sitting there. I can see my kid on this thing, inflating the tire to max psi rated on the rim and tire, costing me a ton of Ducats at the ER and beyond, or worse.

    I know it's been done successfully but I have a pile of parts, that costed me $525 to replace, to prove my opinion on this. There are a couple members on here that also changed the rims for confidence reasons.

    Just my $.02 and may I keep the change? I need it to heal my cycle.

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    The 4" Peagasus Leading edge tape works awesome, just don't leave it in your car in 100 degree weather. Someone mentioned it in a post 6 months ago. Put the tape down, throw a tube in it for a day to get the adhesive to stick good, trim the tape with a razor as it hangs over the edge of the rim. Good to go, the tire seats great.
    Last edited by DirtyRay; 08-28-2014 at 10:31 PM. Reason: oops

  44. #144
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    I have beat the crap out of my Fatboy rims with no ill effects. I've had many "soft" rim hits and no dings or dents in the rims so far (plenty of scrapes!). I'm trying to think how a tube would hold the tire on the rim better than split tube, but I can't think of anything. I suspect that you would have the same rapid tire/rim separation issue with a tube at 20psi, but maybe I'm missing something.

    At a minimum, we all know not to go up to 20psi with those tires.
    John

  45. #145
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    I thought the same about bead retention on this specific tire/rim combo. Split tube seemed the best out of the choices available. Tried a few tapes and the split tube worked best. Zero seepage. Didn't try the Pegasus.

    The bike came to me at 20 psi, new, with the stock tube. I rode it for 25 miles without fail one day and went on the tubeless quest. So I'm not sure what happened. I can only speculate. But the non-split tube worked fine for 2 days at 20psi.

    Part of me wants to try split tube on the "never done" rim when the new tires come in next week keeping the pressure low. Part of me wants to throw the bike off a bridge and see how well it floats without the tires on it.

    I have one Mulefut and spokes coming next week. I feel better about having hooks versus split tubes/Fatboy rims when tubeless.

    When I think about it, aren't we pinching a tube when we go split tube? Boggles the mind I tell ya!...heh

  46. #146
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    I added 1 1/4 wraps of pink foam between the split tube and the rim. It fit in the groove, and makes a nice little channel right at the bead. As the tire slides across the split tube to meet the bead during initial inflation, it holds air before the tire even reaches the bead area on the rim. I seated my rim tape into the holes at 20 psi, but maybe I just got lucky. No burps or problems in almost 10 months of use from 2.5 to 12 psi.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by adaycj View Post
    I added 1 1/4 wraps of pink foam between the split tube and the rim. It fit in the groove, and makes a nice little channel right at the bead. As the tire slides across the split tube to meet the bead during initial inflation, it holds air before the tire even reaches the bead area on the rim. I seated my rim tape into the holes at 20 psi, but maybe I just got lucky. No burps or problems in almost 10 months of use from 2.5 to 12 psi.
    just out of curiosity did you weigh your split tube and pink foam setup by chance?

  48. #148
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    I did it without any foam, I just put a ratchet strap around the tire. I was able to inflate them with a floor pump.

  49. #149
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    Update to my tubeless (right now I'm running Floaters). When I got to the ride yesterday my tire was very low. I pumped it up and I had to hit it again during the ride, so it was losing air. I got home and pulled the core to add Stans, when I did the tire deflated completely and popped off both beads. Surprisingly there were no boogers in the tire, I'm not sure how much Stans I put in there when I first set it up.

    I put another 2 scoops of Stans, put a ratchet strap around the tire and aired it up with a floor pump again. I lost air yesterday, but I filled it up again and rode it around today, it seems to be holding air fine now. I guess I just needed to get Stans to run over the hole, wherever that might be. I don't know where it's leaking.

  50. #150
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    anyone try the nextie wheels yet...I am contemplating getting a set to try out....looks like around a 1000g savings over the stock SLs once you go tubeless...maybe more.

  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    anyone try the nextie wheels yet...I am contemplating getting a set to try out....looks like around a 1000g savings over the stock SLs once you go tubeless...maybe more.
    Why not look at the Nextie threads?

  52. #152
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    Well I scored a wheel and rigid fork from a semi-local MTBR'er. The rim was outfitted with the Pegasus tape. I am really impressed with how well it was stuck to the rim but yet came off pretty clean with a lot of force. It was on there for months. I'm sold on this stuff and ordered 100' of it. The weight of the tape he had installed was 49g. Bomber stuff.

    This rim is different than the new one that came on my pro. The vent holes are definitely drilled much further out from the sidewall radius and are easier to cover with tape.

    Pretty sweet....almost back up and running.

  53. #153
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    ok so I just tried going tubeless with my fatboy...

    I cleaned the rim inside real good with rubbing alcohol, used the tyvek 2 inch wide with three loops around the rim. I went from the edge of where tire mounts on each side of the rim and then did another loop in the middle to seal off any leakage in the middle....then installed the old tube back to get the bead to set on one side....pulled the tube out, installed my WTB presta valve, put in 4 scoops of stans sealant, inflated tire....shook tire vigorously, then did figure eights with the wheel installed on the bike for 10 minutes, then did about 1 mile of low speed riding.....tire leaks like crazy around the middle area of the rim where there are the cut outs.

    What did I do wrong? I made sure the tyvek was sealed down good, no leaks at all from the beaded area of the rims, just in the middle area by the cut outs.

  54. #154
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    I'm going to try and set mine up ghetto tomorrow, hopefully I don't have any issues.
    2016 Trek Farley 7
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  55. #155
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    I gave my Fatboy rims a light emery then cleaned with methylated spirits waited for it to evaporate and then used a farming tape for sealing plastic bales. Its 95mm wide and was perfect for the rim. I then put the tubes back in for a day. Un-beaded one side removed the tube and installed the tubeless valve. 3 cups of sealant (home-brew) then blew tyre up with air gun with the un-beaded side down and sealed quite good. First big ride I got a big stick through the ground control tyre. Patched it but was a wee bit disappointed with the drag of the tyres so I got a set of Hi-Billies and installed them using the same method. Really pleased with how they roll in our conditions.

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    ok so I just tried going tubeless with my fatboy...

    What did I do wrong? I made sure the tyvek was sealed down good, no leaks at all from the beaded area of the rims, just in the middle area by the cut outs.
    No pro here but would like to help if I can.

    From my experience there are two different rims being produced. My 2015 Pro came with rims with the "vent" holes drilled right at the rim sidewall radius, IN the bead retaining channel. The used 2014 rim I bought has the "vent" holes drilled ~.25" inbound. Taping up (and out?) the sidewall of the rim is required on the newer 2015 rim to ensure those holes are dealt with properly.

    Those holes would cause leak at the center cutouts and not the beads.

    I found it important to go with one continuous layer of tape wide enough to span the rim, even up the rim sidewalls, with enough slack in the center (cutout area) to allow for some bloat to the rimstrip when inflated. Like a tube does. The less seams inside the tire the better.

    4" wide tape is good. I know many others have done with less too... Faults at seams and overlaps will cause leaks at the cutouts

    So, you are trying to laminate the entire inner surface of the rim, right up (and out even) the rim sidewall, with as few seams/overlaps as possible. Pegasus 4" tape does this. After the tube step it looks formed as if the rim has been coated by dipping...

    This tape mimics split tube real well. If split tube is out of the question that is.

    If the Tyvek tape is as thin as some others I've used, in house construction, you may have a simple burr problem punching small holes at those "vent" holes too.
    Last edited by Stephen Kunkel; 09-09-2014 at 06:32 AM. Reason: Burrs

  57. #157
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    it doesnt look like its leaking from vent area...my vents were about middle of the ridge of the rim and I made sure to press the tape down real good over the whole rim, especially in those areas...the air is all leaking from the middle of the rim area where the cut outs are at.

  58. #158
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    Tyvek is air-permeable. Not a good choice for tubeless.

  59. #159
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    Just set my front tire up ghetto, no issues at all. It was surprisingly easy. Seems to be holding air just fine. I will set my rear up on Thursday when my LBS gets more Stans.
    2016 Trek Farley 7
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  60. #160
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    I gave up...I bought the q light presta 2.7 tubes.

  61. #161
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    Well then giving up FTW. You're tubeless. Sounds like a success story. From what I saw the tape only saved me some 60g per wheel vs split tube. Hardly a difference at all if any.

    Either way I'll never ever inflate my tubeless to 19psi again no matter the rim seal method....lol.

  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Kunkel View Post
    Well then giving up FTW. You're tubeless. Sounds like a success story. From what I saw the tape only saved me some 60g per wheel vs split tube. Hardly a difference at all if any.

    Either way I'll never ever inflate my tubeless to 19psi again no matter the rim seal method....lol.
    I just put the q light tubes in my FB today...Im now to 27.2lbs for a Large. My XX1 setup should be installed by next week so I may dip below 27lbs. these tubes were 229grams.

  63. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    I just put the q light tubes in my FB today...Im now to 27.2lbs for a Large. My XX1 setup should be installed by next week so I may dip below 27lbs. these tubes were 229grams.
    Wow that is very light! What are you running in there? Helium?

    I'm working on a crash winter diet parts list right now. My Fatboy Pro M sits at 31.4lbs (Feedback Sports scale) now with tubeless. Gonna scratch the Bluto (got the stock used fork and 907 hub), Command post, stock bars. Already have the Next SL, 1x11, XT Brakes, XO, trigger shift with stock rims, tires and taped tubeless at 64g plus 100g sealant.

    With all that I am wishing for...spending my lucky coin for 27 lbs. I don't know how you guys do it or my math is very wrong.

    Hats off to you!

  64. #164
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    I got my rigid fork fatboy down to 26.8 lbs with Thomson Masterpiece post and Ti rail henge, easton carbon bars, RF Next SL crank with DM ring, custom wheels I9 Torch hubs, cx-ray spokes, LB carbon rims set up tubless, candy ti axle pedals, MT6 brakes, full XX1.

    Now I have the Bluto on and its 29.5. But it's so worth it for me and where and how I ride.

  65. #165
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    What's the lightest tube available for split tube use? I used a 24" Q-tube I had sitting on the shelf and it set up as easy as any tubeless bike I have done. Popped right on and been working great.

    Now I'm just wondering if there is a lighter tube that would work until I find some carbon rims for my Pro.

  66. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    I got my rigid fork fatboy down to 26.8 lbs with Thomson Masterpiece post and Ti rail henge, easton carbon bars, RF Next SL crank with DM ring, custom wheels I9 Torch hubs, cx-ray spokes, LB carbon rims set up tubless, candy ti axle pedals, MT6 brakes, full XX1.

    Now I have the Bluto on and its 29.5. But it's so worth it for me and where and how I ride.
    Thank for this, BPD!

    It was good to meet you last week. I mysteriously became ill with gram fever though.

    Think I'll need a few more lucky coins to get where I would like to be weight wise.

    Is that 29.5lb with your single speed setup?

  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Kunkel View Post
    Thank for this, BPD!

    It was good to meet you last week. I mysteriously became ill with gram fever though.

    Think I'll need a few more lucky coins to get where I would like to be weight wise.

    Is that 29.5lb with your single speed setup?
    That was XX1 geared. I actually didn't weigh it when it was set up as a SS. For the SS I chose a SS type of chain, so it was heavier. My guess Fatboy as above except SS would be around 28 lbs.

    Good to meet you too. Good luck with gram fever!

  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Kunkel View Post
    No pro here but would like to help if I can.

    From my experience there are two different rims being produced. My 2015 Pro came with rims with the "vent" holes drilled right at the rim sidewall radius, IN the bead retaining channel. The used 2014 rim I bought has the "vent" holes drilled ~.25" inbound. Taping up (and out?) the sidewall of the rim is required on the newer 2015 rim to ensure those holes are dealt with properly...
    Do you have any pictures of the two? On Spec site it lists the rim for all 3 models as the Fatboy SL, not just the pro. From pics I've found online I can't see the difference.

  69. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by kburati View Post
    Do you have any pictures of the two? On Spec site it lists the rim for all 3 models as the Fatboy SL, not just the pro. From pics I've found online I can't see the difference.
    Sure here is the rim off the Pro. The holes are positioned right in the radius. I suspect they were relocated there or added grip but it's just an uneducated guess. I don't believe this change is related to the Pro at all. It is a definite change that adds a twist to taped tubeless though.

    I don't have pics of the used rim I replaced it with but all the other pics in this thread are just like it.

    I always take Specialized specs with a grain of salt too. They list the 11speed Pro as 11-42 but in reality it is 10-42. The LBS gave me props for knowing that before hand... lol
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-dsc01114.jpg  


  70. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by raspberry View Post
    Fail.

    The tires were holding air but I decided to dismount them to have a looksie.
    It appears that the Stan's doesn't agree with the gorilla tape glue. Mostly, the tape was sealing just fine to the aluminum rim. There were breeches where the sealant got underneath the tape


    I thought about redoing it with two layers of tape that would span the entire distance, but then there is still a seam where the Stan's could penetrate.

    I went ghetto. It wasn't worth messing with the tape anymore. I'm sure it works for some, but I didn't feel confident with it.

    In haste, I promptly sliced an inner tube to do the ghetto fix when I realized I cut a 26" tube. No bueno. I forgot you need to start with a 24" tube. Back to the store for 24" presta tubes. All they had were stupid thick down hill tubes, but at this point I gotta get it done.

    Here's the filleted 24" tube


    Of course, it ends up with these flaps.


    I know it's going to be more difficult to service, but I couldn't stand the flaps so I did a circumcision. The flap strips came to 140 grams per tire.


    This *should* take care of it. I'll let you know.
    Did you use the q tubes 24 2-4-2.7 or the 1.95-2.125 tubes?

  71. #171
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    I didnt pay attention to how people did the split tube method and just botched a tube....I didnt realize you had to pinch the tube between the beed of the tire and the rim. If that is the case Im not doing this.

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    I didnt pay attention to how people did the split tube method and just botched a tube....I didnt realize you had to pinch the tube between the beed of the tire and the rim. If that is the case Im not doing this.
    Just because I had two bead failures doing it means nothing ('cept to me). Hundreds, if not more, have had great success going split tube.

    Curious on what you thought was the process? Just laying the split tube inside the tire?

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Kunkel View Post
    Just because I had two bead failures doing it means nothing ('cept to me). Hundreds, if not more, have had great success going split tube.

    Curious on what you thought was the process? Just laying the split tube inside the tire?
    I thought that the split bead would lay flat up to the bead of where the tire met the rim...no overlap...I didnt realize that the split tube had to get pinched between the rim and tire bead...I put a new q lite tube in my fatboy and im going to run it. On another note I found the tiniest hole in my first q lite tube...I wanted to see if I could repair this tiny hole with some RC car CA glue...sure enough it worked. I glued it back and rode 25 miles of XC riding the past few days on it. that tube will not be my spare.

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    I thought that the split bead would lay flat up to the bead of where the tire met the rim...no overlap...I didnt realize that the split tube had to get pinched between the rim and tire bead...I put a new q lite tube in my fatboy and im going to run it. On another note I found the tiniest hole in my first q lite tube...I wanted to see if I could repair this tiny hole with some RC car CA glue...sure enough it worked. I glued it back and rode 25 miles of XC riding the past few days on it. that tube will not be my spare.
    I see. Well we all live and learn. It was mistake that was 5 bux, unlike mine that was 500+....

    Now you know!

    Never thought of thick Super Glue for tube repairs

  75. #175
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    Just out of curiosity why is the tube having to be pinched between the bead and the rim a problem? Once it's installed you can trim it so you can't even see the tube.

  76. #176
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    JUST started converting front wheel to Scotch "Tough" transparent tape method.

    A few thoughts...

    If front works, I'll do the back.

    Ghetto tubeless is a great option but you still use a tube. The light sticky tape is tempting.

    The stock Specialized tube weighs a ton.

    The small holes near the rim bead will make this tricky.

    Any tape where the tire meets the rim will probably need to be trimmed. Fairly tight fit.

    Popped the valve hole with a simple awl from inside the rim.

    Put tube back in and hit with compressor to about 10 psi. Pumped up to 14-15 psi with floor pump.

    No pop, no ping... Is that normal? The bead looked uniform. I'm not doing 20 psi.

    Going to ride it taped and tubed and maybe put wheel in car (in the sun) and use as an Easy Bake Oven.

    All goes well, tube comes out. Using 4oz. Orange Seal.

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stump 29 View Post

    No pop, no ping... Is that normal? The bead looked uniform. I'm not doing 20 psi.

    Yes, it is normal. The bead just glides into place You are smart not to lay in twenty. At least not for long.

    Mine seated with 15psi

  78. #178
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    I had great luck with this tape. I used the entire width of the tape and just trimmed off the excess that was hanging over edge of rim. Thought was bead would help keep tape down. First try I trimmed tape way down but the stupid holes on the specialized rims caused leaks. Tires have been holding psi for a week and I took it on a hard ride this weekend with zero issues. Total weight savings going tubless is: 1.4lbs. Thanks for the tip on the tape!


    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    Sure I used this tape: Part number 3323-4 Black Leading Edge Tape, 4 inch x 100 feet, 11 mil Thickness from www.PegasusAutoRacing.com. It is NOT 11mm wide, it is 11mils thick and it is 4 inches wide.
    I trimmed it close to the top of the bead and because it was stretched on initial taping, the edge popped in to BSD and rode up the edge (bead lock area) a little. I believe how up the edge is irrelevant as long as it is beyond the BSD.


    The theory is not that much different than using a tube, except for the separate stem, which doesn't matter, as long as the tube has a removable core for future sealant charging. This tape is thick and heavy. 110-130 grams for the rim. I am not sure what a split tube weighs.

  79. #179
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    Dudes, ditch the gorilla tape. Its heavy, and doesn't stick to anything!

    Use this:
    Name:  5GKD7_AS01.JPG
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    I wrapped the left edge, center, right 2 wraps, center, then left again, in one continuous run. Put the tube in at 20psi overnight. Then remove tube, install valve and sealant, profit.

    Fatboy expert. So far I am on week 3 with zero pressure loss.

    Good luck!
    Grit, spit, and a whole lot of duct tape!

  80. #180
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    Stupid question alert... ?

    I'm not up to speed on all the lingo, but if i just got one Q-tube or maybe the same size tube that wasn't so "lightweight" and put that in place of the stock fatboy tube would that work for me without having to use stans or orange? I wouldn't be doing anything crazy and I weigh 150 lbs. Just want to lose some bike weight since adding my Bluto. I guess run 10 psi or a bit more? Would i still be in danger of pinch flating or having the tire come off? Thanks for helping out this newb.

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRS1FREAK View Post
    Stupid question alert... ?

    I'm not up to speed on all the lingo, but if i just got one Q-tube or maybe the same size tube that wasn't so "lightweight" and put that in place of the stock fatboy tube would that work for me without having to use stans or orange? I wouldn't be doing anything crazy and I weigh 150 lbs. Just want to lose some bike weight since adding my Bluto. I guess run 10 psi or a bit more? Would i still be in danger of pinch flating or having the tire come off? Thanks for helping out this newb.

    When ever you use a tube it is not likely to have the tire come off the rim(I have seen the tube come out the side wall but its rare) As the tube is pushing the tire into the rim hook. You are fine to do that, but keep in mind that no matter what type of tube you run you are always as risk of a pinch flat or thorn. I would still suggest using some sealant if you ride in no mans land or have sections with thorns. I run normal fat bike tubes in my fat bikes and have had my homebrew and stans fix me right up. Its normally due to a thorn as the fat bike tubes are so thick they are a bit more burly. The only thing that will happen to you is if you run to low of PSI your tire might suck its self in some and you will wear down the side wall so just make sure to check the tire is mounted evenly at really low PSI's

  82. #182
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    Brainstorm

    Guys, I just had a wild idea and am hoping someone here has enough hootspa to try it. Dont beat me up if you think this is completey stupid, K.
    Here goes. After taping a freshly cleaned rim and seating the tape with a tube in the tire, remove the tire and then spray the inside of the rim with Plasti-dip. It's a rubberized spray paint of sorts and would seal over top the Gorilla tape or whatever you chose to use. Let that cure for a good day and that should prevent seepage of the Stans under the tape. Then lube it good before slipping on your tire before the final seating so as not to tear the sprayed film.
    Last edited by 2BrownDogs; 12-26-2014 at 03:23 PM. Reason: added hyperlink

  83. #183
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    ^ Was thinking about something like Flex seal or Plastic Dip maybe to seal off the tape from the stans although don't know how either would interact with the gorilla tape or stans.

    Ok, cool thanks Ian0789. May end up going with some surly tubes anyway.

  84. #184
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    Word of warning
    My mate split tubed his almost new tyres. All good.
    Did my much more worn tyres yesterday, put same pressure he did his with in one of mine
    to set bead and it blew off the rim. Bead was ruined.
    Edit
    Just went over to put Stans in the other tyre, we left over night aired up
    Flat and bead stuffed. F&@k
    Last edited by Twimby; 12-29-2014 at 02:21 AM.

  85. #185
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    You guys have to go easy on the pressure. I try not to air my tires above 15 psi, nor do I leave them that way for very long. I get them just high enough to seat the bead and then I lower everything to below 8 psi. The rims themselves are only rated for 20 psi. The higher pressures just stress out your tape job unnecessarily.

    When I taped up my rims, I just took my time and was very careful to keep the tape smooth, particularly in the areas of overlap. Right now I am running 3 wraps of standard width Gorilla on the front (left, right, & center) and I am running a couple of wraps of 4" wide Nashua duct tape on the rear. Both weigh in at 110 grams of added tape per wheel. Both taping methods have been reliable while running 4 oz. of Orange Seal since October. In fact I think you could get away with 3 oz. if you really wanted to shave more weight.

    I am convinced that the key to success is a quality tape job. If you rush things and do a messy job, you rely on the sealant to fix your mistakes. Ironically it is the sealant itself that will slowly eat away at the tape bond. Finally, access to a heat gun or even a hair dryer can help smooth out and better seal your tape. I actually used my wood stove one night to help cure the tape bond before adding sealant. I also skip the tube seating method and just use my air compressor. If you are careful, you can seat both beads of the Ground Controls in one shot. I remove the valve stem and simply use an air nozzle pointed right into the valve on the rim to quickly inflate the tire. Once both beads seat, I put the valve back in and bring the system up to my desired pressure.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRS1FREAK View Post
    Ok, cool thanks Ian0789. May end up going with some surly tubes anyway.
    So I ended up going with Specialized 26x3.0 tubes it worked just fine, no issues. I don't have any desire to try and fiddle with tubeless now. Thanks for the info again.

  87. #187
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    Another happy new Fatbike (Expert) owner, with successful (so far) tubeless conversion. First, some measured data, for size large.

    Bike as delivered, with flat pedals: 14.49 kg (31.4 lbs)
    Complete front wheel, with tire, tube, skewer: 3.54 kg
    Complete rear wheel, with tire, tube, skewer, Sunrace 11-36 cassette: 4.17 kg

    Speccy Ground Control tire: 1470 g
    Speccy 3.8-4.8 tube: 540 g (avg of 2, and less than others have seen)
    Sunrace cassette: 350 g
    Bennies flat pedals: 430 g

    My history:

    Tubeless attempt #1
    3M 8898 tape, 48 mm wide. I tried one wrap down the middle, then one on each side, covering the vent holes. Mounted a tire and tube to compress the tape, deflated, broke the bead on one side, put in a Stans valve stem and sealant. Aired up with a compressor (and Presta inflator) to about 15 psi. Held pressure for about 10 minutes, with lots of sealant leaking out along the rim strip.

    Tubeless attempt #1.1
    Same as above, but with a second wrap of 3M tape down the middle, overlapping the 2 side wraps. Tried to be patient and careful taping. Same result as above. Noted that when pulling the tape off the rim, plenty of Stans got between the layers.

    Tubeless attempt #2
    4 inch leading edge racer tape from Pegasus. One wrap with about 4 inches of overlap at the valve. Note: this much tape weighs about 20 g. While taping, I pushed the entire 4 inch width into the rim, so that the tape extended up the rim sidewall, but not above. This let the tape fit into the inner rim recess. I was careful to work the tape adhesion at the overlap. Use the same routine, first mounting a tire and tube, and then switching to a Stans valve stem and sealant. This time the tire mounted instantly and either zero sealant leaks (front), or one little bubble at the bead, that sealed quickly (rear). Aired up to 12 psi (very happy to have the compressor with these big boys). Went for a 30 minute ride and loved it. Checked the pressures 2 hours later: no change. Went for another ride, and then parked overnight. Next morning: no change.

    Hoping not to jinx myself, but I think I got it. New data:

    Complete front wheel, with tire, tape, sealant, skewer: 3.27 kg (270 g less)
    Complete rear wheel, with tire, tape, slnt, skwr, SRAM XG 11-36: 3.66 kg (510 g less)
    Complete bike, with XT spd pedals: 13.62 kg, 30.0 lbs (870 g less)

    Bottom line: get the 4 inch tape, so that seams are minimal.

  88. #188
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    bkrantz, good write up, Thanks for taking the time

  89. #189
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    Both of these wheels seal. Specialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-img_20150119_084442060_hdr.jpgSpecialized Fat Boy:  How I went tubless-img_20150119_084412343_hdr.jpg

    The black one is Gorilla tape, 3 wraps - left, right, center, singlelayer. The silver one is 4" Nashua duct tape, 2 layers - first layer up the sidewalls, second just to the edge.
    '15 Evil The Following
    '15 Spec Fatboy R

  90. #190
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    Follow up report: since my last post, each tire lost some pressure once, but was cured with another 2-3 ounces of Stans, followed by some riding time. For the past week, the bike has been sitting still, and both tires are holding steady at 10 psi.

  91. #191
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    Perhaps not the right thread, but my fat bike ballooned up to 45 lbs, used TommySea tires and heavy tubes as well as the usual addons such as bottle holders, pumps etc. It became almost unridable for an old man like me. I pulled all the stuff off, remounted the Ground Controls with lightweight tubes, still ended up at 35lbs. I do have a 120mm bluto, and the change in tires and tubes saved nearly 10 lbs. But with a nearly stripped fatboy, any suggestions on lowering the weight, particularly the rolling weight?
    Thanks, I am on a budget so the obvious solutions may not be an option unless the missus is willing
    Thanks,
    FGO

  92. #192
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    What is the best tire pressure to run on dry single track?

  93. #193
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    If you have way to weigh things start with the front wheel and tire assembly minus the Blutoaxle. At 35# you are on the heavy side still. Are you sure the tubes were light? Ineven used the heavier split tube method.

    Tubeless, with Haven carbon bars I'm just an ounce or two over 30#. Mine is a medium. On mine it would take heavy stock tubes, a heavier seat, and some pretty massive pedals to get all the way to 35#. Are you sure the weight is accurate?

  94. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcrna1 View Post
    What is the best tire pressure to run on dry single track?
    I use 7 psi for dry single track, sometimes up to 8 in the rocky stuff. That's enough to take some of the tire steering effect out, but still makes a comfortable ride. I'm 165 pounds.

  95. #195
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    Interesting to read how careful some of you guys are airing up your tubeless tires initially. I've run mine up to 30-35 to get them to seat perfectly and thought nothing of it. I am assuming you guys are spinning them and they are spinning straight and true? I have never had much luck getting them to seat perfect and spin 100% true unless I ran 'em up initially to at least 30 to start with. However, with my current wheel set-up I am not sure what the bike shop did, because they set it up for me (Hed's) so perhaps those will require much less, I don't know. But on my "old" aluminum rims, I had no fear plugging in 30 to start with.

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkrantz View Post
    4 inch leading edge racer tape from Pegasus. One wrap with about 4 inches of overlap at the valve. Note: this much tape weighs about 20 g.
    I measured 1 full wrap of the pegasus tape with a few inches of overlap at 0.19 lbs ~85 grams. I've still got tubes in there to make sure the overlap seats well before pulling the tube and dropping in sealant... will make the switch tonight, can't wait!

  97. #197
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    delete me

    edit: double-post
    Last edited by applen; 05-22-2015 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Double post

  98. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by applen View Post
    ...will make the switch tonight, can't wait!
    Wow what a difference in acceleration & low speed handling. Loosing 2lbs of rolling weight made a much bigger difference in feel than I expected. Bike feels EVEN MORE playful.

    I did the front first, aired up the tire before adding the sealant, and it slowly slid into the bead and held air just fine. (used a compressor, but probably could have done it with a pump)

    I think the Peagasus tape is perfect.

    Here are the #s (Fatboy Pro stock):
    Front Wheel (with Stock tube): 7.52 lbs
    Rear Wheel (with Stock tube): 9.00 lbs

    Tube removed, white velcro fatboy rim strip removed and replaced with 2 wraps of WIDE green electrical tape (not sure what the drop in weight is there but I'm pretty sure the electrical tape is lighter)
    Added 1 wrap of Pegasus tape (~.19 lbs / ~85 grams), ~6oz of Stan's (~0.35 lbs / 160 grams), and valve stem (also didn't weigh).
    Front Wheel: 6.74 lbs / 3057 grams (all front wheel measurements do NOT include the Bluto through axle)
    Rear Wheel: 8.32 lbs / 3770 grams

    Front Wheel loss: 7.52 - 6.74 = 0.78 lbs / 354 grams
    Front Wheel rotating mass loss: 7.52 - 6.74 - 0.35 = 1.13 lbs / 512 grams

    Rear Wheel loss: 9 - 8.32 = 0.68 lbs / 308 grams
    Rear Wheel rotating mass loss: 9 - 8.32 - 0.35 = 1.02 lbs / 463 grams

    Total weight loss: 1.46 lbs
    Total rotating weight loss: 2.15 lbs

    So that is loosing over a pound of rolling weight per tire (stans shouldn't affect accleration/deceleration of wheels)!

    After riding it a bit myself and letting a bunch of other people ride it as well (few folks at the shop then roomates when I got home), I aired it down to 8 psi front and 9 psi rear (still a bit higher than i was running with tubes - I weigh 190 lbs).

    I'll update this thread if I loose any pressure.
    Last edited by applen; 05-29-2015 at 01:26 PM. Reason: got front wheel weight & updated weight calcs

  99. #199
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    Well, it's a little embarassing to keep replying to myself... but I hope this information will prove useful one day..

    Quote Originally Posted by applen View Post
    I'll update this thread if I loose any pressure.
    I did lose pressure, after 2 days. Front was flat. I pumped it back up and it was leaking air slowly at first but did a trail ride on monday and after 40min I was probably below 2psi & had to pull off the trail and put in a tube

    The next day the rear was low I aired it back up and a day later it had lost about half the pressure. I aired it up again and it seems to be holding air now... we'll see.

    In the meantime I've fixed the front: my tape job was the problem. Sealant was weeping through the overlap in the pegasus tape. The trick here is getting out as many of the air bubles as you can in the over-lap: I think it was fine initially but eventually the airbbles started to bleed together and formed a big enough gap/path that the wheel would no longer seal. I think that's why it took a couple days to show itself. I did remember to weight the front tire this time and am updated the above post accordingly.

    Hopefully it all holds this time. The difference in ride quality is so great that I am committed to staying tubless, so I'll keep trying till it works and keep ya'll updated.

  100. #200
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    Thanks for the update- I've been running shrink wrap for my Fatboy tubeless, but would like a more durable option so I can change tires frequently in the winter. I had run several brands of tape and tried two brands of sealant (Stans and Bontrager), but all ultimately failed in similar manners to the problem you've experienced. Please let us know how your redone tape holds up.

    Thanks!
    '17 Cutthroat
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon
    '15 Fatboy Expert

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