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  1. #1
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    SON 135 front hub

    can anyone confirm this is a 10mm axle (and presumably therefore a rear spaced brake?) thanks!

  2. #2
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    I have one on my Pugsley. It fits fine in the 135mm Symmetric Moonlander Fork, so is definitely rear spaced. I'd have to break out my calipers to get you the axle size, though...

  3. #3
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    99.9% sure that will mean 10mm axle then..i have a moonlander fork also and it takes a rear hub spec. thanks muchly!

  4. #4
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    No problem; I like the hub, although it's VERY spendy. But having light on my evening commute is worth it to me. I got mine from Peter White (via my LBS). Not sure if there's any other source for them in the states yet.

  5. #5
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    For a cheaper option, you could get this hub:

    SP Hub Dynamo Dynohub PD 8x 32 36h QR15 Less Drag Than The 8 Series | eBay

    And then this adapter:

    Mountain Bike 15mm x 100mm thru Axle to 5mm QR Wheel Adapter for 135mm Fat Fork | eBay

    I've never tried either of them, but I've read that it works.

  6. #6
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    Now if they'd make one that accepts a chainring so you can swap it with the front wheel in an emergency ... then you'd have everything.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark_BC View Post
    Now if they'd make one that accepts a chainring so you can swap it with the front wheel in an emergency ... then you'd have everything.
    Actually, you probably could do that if you built the wheel symmetrical like I am hoping to do. You could attach a sprocket to the brake rotor mount and go without a brake on the rear in an emergency which would be acceptable in the case of emergency.

    I'd really like to avoid having to lug my solar panel around to charge up my batteries.

  8. #8
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    There was another post on this topic here.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark_BC View Post
    Now if they'd make one that accepts a chainring so you can swap it with the front wheel in an emergency ... then you'd have everything.
    I assume you mean: "Now if they'd make one that accepts a cog so you can swap it with the rear wheel in an emergency ... then you'd have everything."

    Yes, I've thought about that as well, but on a bikepacking rig, not a fatbike. It would first of all require both frame and fork to be 135mm symmetrical spaced. Then you just need to carry one of those fixed gear ISO disc mount cogs. Then you just swap wheels and remove the disc rotor from the dynamo wheel and mount the cog instead and then tension the chain. You would then have a fixed gear bike with no generator and no rear brake, but it would get you out of a jam!

    Or, you can try to convince one of the dynamo hub manufacturers to put disc mounts on both sides of the hub, then it would work on an offset 135 frame/fork and keep the use of both brakes. I guess that would be a niche inside a niche inside a niche, not a big market!

    Mark

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Or, you can try to convince one of the dynamo hub manufacturers to put disc mounts on both sides of the hub, then it would work on an offset 135 frame/fork and keep the use of both brakes. I guess that would be a niche inside a niche inside a niche, not a big market!

    Mark
    While I agree and have thought about this... you also need some space free for the wire to come out. It is a dynohub, after all. I can't see them doing anything that might leave them in a place to be sued because someone's wire got caught in a rotor/cog

  11. #11
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    Symmetrical 135 mm fatbike
    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    I assume you mean: "Now if they'd make one that accepts a cog so you can swap it with the rear wheel in an emergency ... then you'd have everything."

    Yes, I've thought about that as well, but on a bikepacking rig, not a fatbike. It would first of all require both frame and fork to be 135mm symmetrical spaced. Then you just need to carry one of those fixed gear ISO disc mount cogs. Then you just swap wheels and remove the disc rotor from the dynamo wheel and mount the cog instead and then tension the chain. You would then have a fixed gear bike with no generator and no rear brake, but it would get you out of a jam!

    Or, you can try to convince one of the dynamo hub manufacturers to put disc mounts on both sides of the hub, then it would work on an offset 135 frame/fork and keep the use of both brakes. I guess that would be a niche inside a niche inside a niche, not a big market!

    Mark
    Exactly! It's a little early in the morning, still half asleep...

    It may be niche but it wouldn't add much to the price. BTW, I'm working on figuring out a 135 symmetrical. It will work with a Rohloff and will fit a Lou no problem. Now I just need the money to get my frame builder to build it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by evandy View Post
    While I agree and have thought about this... you also need some space free for the wire to come out. It is a dynohub, after all. I can't see them doing anything that might leave them in a place to be sued because someone's wire got caught in a rotor/cog
    But with a 135mm hub, you have an extra 17.5mm to work with on each side, that should bo more than enough extra room. Also, the wiring stays on the fork, so when you put it on the rear, there are no wires, just the connector on the hub. Unless of course you want wiring to the rear as well...

  13. #13
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    Actually, thinking about this some more, you don't need to swap wheels at all if you carry a fixed ISO disc cog. You just have to replace the rotor with the cog and flip the rear wheel around. This would require a symmetrical rear triangle, and before leaving you would want to check that the cassette clears the brake caliper and that you have decent chainline from your chainring to the cog. As a last resort in the event your freehub dies, I think it would be good insurance!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Actually, thinking about this some more, you don't need to swap wheels at all if you carry a fixed ISO disc cog. You just have to replace the rotor with the cog and flip the rear wheel around. This would require a symmetrical rear triangle, and before leaving you would want to check that the cassette clears the brake caliper and that you have decent chainline from your chainring to the cog. As a last resort in the event your freehub dies, I think it would be good insurance!
    Good point, it would only be an issue with offset wheels. Yet another advantage to building a symmetrical 135 mm...

  15. #15
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    I believe the Origin 8 is a symmetrical 135.
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

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