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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckfiddious View Post
    I've ridden steel my whole life and I have never done much more than washing/brushing the salt off in the winter and I have never seen a frame rust out.

    As long as you take reasonably precautions (keep them inside, knock the big chunks of slush off, oil the chain every now and then) you will be fine.

    Look, steel isn't that fragile. If it was, you'd never see cars made of steel and you'd definitely never see motorcycle frames made of steel.

    you don't have to baby steel.

    (caveat) really really super thin, super light steel, you have to baby. but if they put it on a MTB, it's not that kind of steel. And if it's just good ol' 4130, as long as you don't store it IN a lake, you are probably good for a looooooong time to come.
    I'd have to agree with what he said and then take it farther and say the same goes for aluminum and ti too. All three can last like forever if they are sized for the application they are being used for. Sure they can all be broken but all of them are used in aircraft where they go for thousands of fatigue cycles without failing and where the consequence of failure is very severe.
    It seems to me that ride quality and asthetics are valid reasons to choose between a certain frame material but potential for failure really isn't. Fixability out in the remote world, maybe is another reason.
    Latitude 61

  2. #27
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    Buckfidious,
    Thanks for sharing that you have an old steel bike with small bits of rust where the paint had chipped

    If you would have found a Titanium frame of the same age as the trek, it would look as new and save some weight! But people tend to hold on to these bikes instead of abandonning them.

    That is one of the reasons why I bought a Titanium hoggar


    But, again, there is nothing wrong with steel, it is cheep, can be welded in open air, and if you protect it well it lasts its time.The overal weight of a fatbike does not really suffer a lot from a pound extra on the frame, it's the parts that makes it heavy!

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nothing's impossible View Post
    The overal weight of a fatbike does not really suffer a lot from a pound extra on the frame, it's the parts that makes it heavy!
    Even more so the wheels ! Careful choice of rims, tubes, tyres and rims strips can drop 3kg (6.5lb) off a fatbike.
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  4. #29
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    Sorry Oz, I considered the rolling parts under parts!
    I guess that you did the math with the 25lbs fatbike!

    I am not into weight weenie world anymore, but I can imagine that 25 lbs will be even more difficult based on a steel frame!

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nothing's impossible View Post
    Sorry Oz, I considered the rolling parts under parts!
    I guess that you did the math with the 25lbs fatbike!

    I am not into weight weenie world anymore, but I can imagine that 25 lbs will be even more difficult based on a steel frame!
    It most definately all adds up. If you want to build light without sacrificing the bikes capabilities theres a load of thought to go into it.

    Brakes are a big one, losing weight from a 1200g set of BB7's to a lighter set of hydro brakes that will stop a big wheeled bike - you cant weenie on good brakes and rotors but you can shave a 1lb+ off easily.

    Cranks are another big weight dropper, i came from being a singlespeeder so having 10 gear is like heaven so 1 x 10 was a no brainer, saved the weight of a front mech, shifter and 1 or 2 chainrings.
    Last edited by ozzybmx; 08-28-2012 at 03:08 AM.
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