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  1. #1
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    New question here. Single versus Double Chainring

    Hi, i am new to fatbikes and love it riding daily.
    I am happy with my 36-22, 10 speeds with 11-36 cassette.(Fatboy)
    I am curious if my next fat is 1 chainring will i save a pound or what?
    The going simple is that a fad?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    1x11 just works - period. No it's not a fad.
    You lose the weight, the gear ratio redundancy and you can still climb anything.
    You will see 2x become less and less common.

  3. #3
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    Use the search feature!

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    Not a fan of 1x11. The low is not low enough, the high is not high enough. Perhaps it is good for fit skinny guys, but it has serious compromises for "men of substance" who ride in the hills. IMO it does not shift as smoothly as my 3x10, nor does it have the smaller jumps between cogs. Front derailleurs work flawlessly when adjusted properly and shifted with a little care. 1x11 has its place, but is not the "be all, end all" of gearing solutions. On the upside, the 1x11 is very light and the single ring allows for tire clearance that you won't get on a 3x system.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    Use the search feature!
    This. A lot has already been posted on this topic.

    However, I'll add that there are a lot of variables - what kind of terrain do you ride? How fit are you? Etc, etc. Ultimately, no one can really answer the question for you. Some people ride 3x11, some people ride singlespeeds. And many people ride something in between.
    "The only way we can truly control the outcome of a ride is not going on it, which is a choice I'm unwilling to make." -K.B.

  6. #6
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    I will admit that I have not yet spun out my 36-11 on my fatbike, but I have used my 22-36 several times. That may get me into 1x range, but I'm not convinced yet. I am still thinking hubs should have less gears, with the flanges spaced farther apart. I might even take 2 cogs out of my cassette to see if it shifts OK.
    1x makes sense for fatties, though.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  7. #7
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    It's going to vary from person to person based on fitness level, terrain, and riding style. Your best bet is to plug the gears you have now into a calculator and then what you would have if you went to a 1x setup and then compare the high and low ends. BikeCalc.com - Speed at all Cadences for any Gear and Wheel

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    Hi, i am new to fatbikes and love it riding daily.
    I am happy with my 36-22, 10 speeds with 11-36 cassette.(Fatboy)
    I am curious if my next fat is 1 chainring will i save a pound or what?
    The going simple is that a fad?

    Thanks
    Depends where and how you ride...do you use the low end and high end and everything in between? If so, you'll miss it. Most folks can get by with a more limited range. I find in the midwest that 10sp is plenty. Use the calculator provided above (or see Sheldon Brown's), and determine what suits you.

    No, it's not a fad. Yes, you'll save roughly a pound, depending.

  9. #9
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    Because I ride my Fatbike year round on varying terrain both trails and roads, I use both chainrings. However, I find in the winter with wet/snowy/freezing conditions that I have to pick a ring at the beginning of the ride because it doesn't take long for the front derailleur to become packed with snow and ice.
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  10. #10
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    ^^^^This right here

    Fat bikes are built for single ring setup. Had this same discussion with out local fatbike group. All of them said single ring for the above reason. Since you can now get a stock Sunrace 11-42 cassette for 10spd setup there is no reason not go single ring.

    Now if you live in an area with no snow...double should be the way.

    I don't really care how fast I am going downhill, in the snow and ice on my fatbike in Jan. I'm just happy to have a tool to keep riding singletrack with.
    Proud Tribe member since 1992 - looking for better singletrack to be ridden year round

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpa102 View Post
    Because I ride my Fatbike year round on varying terrain both trails and roads, I use both chainrings. However, I find in the winter with wet/snowy/freezing conditions that I have to pick a ring at the beginning of the ride because it doesn't take long for the front derailleur to become packed with snow and ice.
    Wow, the only time my front D froze up was when I fell through the ice into a beaver pond at -10. Not sure what conditions that might happen in, but not an issue for me and I've been riding for a long time, starting with the (pre-pugs) Wildfire.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stroganof View Post
    Not a fan of 1x11. The low is not low enough, the high is not high enough. Perhaps it is good for fit skinny guys, but it has serious compromises for "men of substance" who ride in the hills. IMO it does not shift as smoothly as my 3x10, nor does it have the smaller jumps between cogs. Front derailleurs work flawlessly when adjusted properly and shifted with a little care. 1x11 has its place, but is not the "be all, end all" of gearing solutions. On the upside, the 1x11 is very light and the single ring allows for tire clearance that you won't get on a 3x system.
    Disagree the entire way through this. I'm 225. Use 1x10. 28t front and 42 in back and I can ride up and down anything. Simple SRAM X7 rear derailleur with X0 grip shift. NEVER any problems shifting.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  13. #13
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    No snow = double? Don't know about that.

    Guess the agreement is that everyone likes a different setup...go with what works for ya.

  14. #14
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    I got a double up front but no derailleur. 32 for summer and 24 for winter.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  15. #15
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    I've got this awesome setup. Its a double 1x10. There's these 2 gear thingies up front that I can choose to or choose not to use. I can go fast AND slow. The cool thing is, I don't even have to take my bike apart to change the gearing - it all happens WITHOUT tools. Here's the really cool part...I can push a button, and it switches all by itself, while I'm pedalling.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    Use the search feature!
    I am sure such a subject was discussed and i appologize but my tech knowledge is very limited and i could not find my answer.

    The little that i know is that it might make sense for vey fit cyclist who can survive the gaps and maybe for summer trails with jumping and chain dropping but if deraileurs might freeze having 2 is a + in y book.

    Around here they sell 9 speeds wich are too limited 10 speeds with a chainring to big for uphill and lots use oneup wich defeats the purpose of buying a fat to save money with no real saving like tires definitely not for our winters in the Montréal, Québec area.

    I m wondering about the shifting....

    I can figure my needs like 24 with 11-36 10 speeds or go 11.

    Thanks

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I've got this awesome setup. Its a double 1x10. There's these 2 gear thingies up front that I can choose to or choose not to use. I can go fast AND slow. The cool thing is, I don't even have to take my bike apart to change the gearing - it all happens WITHOUT tools. Here's the really cool part...I can push a button, and it switches all by itself, while I'm pedalling.
    Interesting. Have you considered a triple 1x10? If my math's correct, you'd get 50% more gears.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    I am sure such a subject was discussed and i appologize but my tech knowledge is very limited and i could not find my answer.

    The little that i know is that it might make sense for vey fit cyclist who can survive the gaps and maybe for summer trails with jumping and chain dropping but if deraileurs might freeze having 2 is a + in y book.

    Around here they sell 9 speeds wich are too limited 10 speeds with a chainring to big for uphill and lots use oneup wich defeats the purpose of buying a fat to save money with no real saving like tires definitely not for our winters in the Montréal, Québec area.

    I m wondering about the shifting....

    I can figure my needs like 24 with 11-36 10 speeds or go 11.

    Thanks

    Like the other poster above, I too have been winter riding many years on "skinny" studded tires before fatbikes were a thing...with a triple, no less! Rarely had freezing problems, and if you do, then oh well you go to one cog...again, depends when/where one likes to ride, but really haven't had that be much of an issue. You should be fine with the 2x in that regard.

  19. #19
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    I get by year round on my 1x10 setup with an 11-36 cassette.

    I bought a OneUp 42t giant cog and haven't even needed it yet.

    30t chainring for winter, 32 for summer.

    My bike isn't lightweight and neither am I (33 and 210 pounds respectively)
    Last edited by Swerny; 01-28-2016 at 03:34 PM.

  20. #20
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    Personal preference. I have 2x but have used my bike for a gravel race in the summer and was happy that I had the 36-11.

    Been thinking about going 1x though and changing to the Cinch system since I only use one chainring during winter. That way I could change the ring easily depending on what I am going to do. The stock samox crank makes work out changing a chain ring.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyJo1 View Post
    I got a double up front but no derailleur. 32 for summer and 24 for winter.
    I have the same type of setup.....although I'm running 27 and 34 tooth rings, and it's not summer or winter - just depends on what I'm riding and who I'm riding with. I love the simplicity of it.

  22. #22
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    I have a 1x11 with a 30t ring and 11-42 cass. Its perfect for 98% of what I want to do. Occasionally 30/42 is not enough through snow or super steep climbs, so I plan to put the 22t granny back on the crankset, and manually shift it over when necessary. A few people swear by having the bailout. No need for a front derailleur or shifter, and only adds a few grams back to the bike. Having not done it myself, its hard to suggest it, but I'm thinking real hard about it.

  23. #23
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    This thread is going down fast.

    One thing I learned from riding bikes for 42 years. Every single cyclist prefers a different component, frame, wheel, gear, color, jersey, bib from the rest - and reasons for these choices vary.

    CHOOSE WHAT YOU WANT TO USE.

    If you change your mind every morning before your ride, then change your mind. No one is right or wrong.

    I am out of here.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I have a 1x11 with a 30t ring and 11-42 cass. Its perfect for 98% of what I want to do. Occasionally 30/42 is not enough through snow or super steep climbs, so I plan to put the 22t granny back on the crankset, and manually shift it over when necessary. A few people swear by having the bailout. No need for a front derailleur or shifter, and only adds a few grams back to the bike. Having not done it myself, its hard to suggest it, but I'm thinking real hard about it.
    Is a 11-42 11 speed like the good old reliable 11-32 9 speeds with the addition of a 36 and a 42?
    I could be fine with that with a 28 in front or going 10 speeds and a manual shifting occasionally

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    Is a 11-42 11 speed like the good old reliable 11-32 9 speeds with the addition of a 36 and a 42?
    I could be fine with that with a 28 in front or going 10 speeds and a manual shifting occasionally
    Yes, its pretty much like that. Some gears may be slightly different from 9 speed cassette to the last 9 of the 11 speed cassette, but the range in your example is the same. If you could stay in the middle gear of your 9 speed, having two more larger gears will just be gravy.

    A 30t/42t gives you .714 ratio, which has more low end than a 24/32 (.750) but just shy of 22/32 (.688). You probably wont need to drop to 28t chainring with 42 out back unless you already couldn't push your 9 speed 22/32.

  26. #26
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    I have 1 x 11 and I almost never long for more gear.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
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    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  27. #27
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    Not to hijack this thread, but I have a few questions. I have a surly wednesday with a 22/34t up front and 11-36 cassette and was looking at possibly doing 1x11 to save some weight and I like the simplicity. The thing is I like bikepacking and use the highest gears to slowly rock crawl up hills. Hardly ever use the lowest gear at all. So is there a good setup for 1x11 for me or should I just stick with the 2x10

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverat View Post
    Not to hijack this thread, but I have a few questions. I have a surly wednesday with a 22/34t up front and 11-36 cassette and was looking at possibly doing 1x11 to save some weight and I like the simplicity. The thing is I like bikepacking and use the highest gears to slowly rock crawl up hills. Hardly ever use the lowest gear at all. So is there a good setup for 1x11 for me or should I just stick with the 2x10
    I think you mean you use the lower gears (larger cogs on the cassette). Yes, you are a fine candidate for going one by, especially since you dont need a wide range since you dont often push the higher (fatser) gears.

    Your existing stmp puller gear combo of 22/34 gives you a ratio of .647. Going 28t ring and 42t cassette gets you close at .667. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference IMO. The only downside is that to go 28t ring, youll likely need either a direct mount crank, or 64 BCD in the middle position.

    If you keep your existing crank, assuming 104 BCD, you can go down to 30t. That will give you .714 ratio on the low end. Thats slightly better than your current second lowest gear, 22/30 whish is .733. If you NEVER use yoru current absolute lowest 22/34 gear, then Id suggest going with the 30t up front.

  29. #29
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    During a recent snow race my man ran out of gears 22,32 x 11,36 on a slight long down hill. He was passing 1x11 and 1x10 guys left and right. So much so that he could soft pedal the slight uphill and still beat them just on the dh part.

    He always complains about needing taller gears. I have the same gearing and would like one more easier gear for the deep snow when the bike just stops cause of drag. The jump in gear teeth on a single front makes you choose between easy/hard pedaling. Would rather pick a comfortable gear and shift when I need to. We are both equal to mid pack local pro's. It's not about strength, more about comfort and saving the knees.

    The manufactures are making much more money on single front chainring setups. The parts wear out faster and are more money to replace. The frame makers find it easier to to design a shorter chainstay with less attention to making a wider chain line fit.

    It's better for them, not you. If shifting with your left hands was soo hard and troublesome , why did it work perfectly for so long and still does for road bikes?

  30. #30
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    Lots of good advice here. I'm subscribing. I'm contemplating switching to a 1x setup, but worried I won't be able to gear low enough. Right now I'm spending pretty much all of my time in my 22t up front and the 3 lowest in rear. Sounds perfect to go 1x, but I fear having 20x42 won't be low enough, not even close to the 22x36 I have now. I have a 104 bcd crank now, so 30t is the smallest I can go up front, I think a 28t would be ideal for my situation. Without changing cranks are there any other options people can think? I guess keep the 22t and remove the front derailluer and big chainring up front. Any chainline issues with this? Dropped chain issues?

  31. #31
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    If I spin any lower than the 28x42 that I have now I'll fall over!
    I'm also not afraid to stand up and hammer, and I actually prefer that, often choosing a higher gear and standing up on a climb - when practical.
    Even climbing up a certain 43 degree or so climb on a local trail, 28x42 is plenty low enough for me, and is already just crawling along. Can't imagine needing anything lower, but that's me and as we've seen in this thread everyone is different.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    If I spin any lower than the 28x42 that I have now I'll fall over!
    I'm also not afraid to stand up and hammer, and I actually prefer that, often choosing a higher gear and standing up on a climb - when practical.
    Even climbing up a certain 43 degree or so climb on a local trail, 28x42 is plenty low enough for me, and is already just crawling along. Can't imagine needing anything lower, but that's me and as we've seen in this thread everyone is different.
    That's what I'm talking about. I think 28x42 would be perfect, but I'd have to change the crank out to get that. Or keep what I have with the 22x36 low that I'm in most of the time, and not change anything, but that leaves a bunch of moving parts that I'm not using.

  33. #33
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    There is no problem with me. I pretty much got my answers. The manufacturer in my opinion offer different things sometimes for newnest so it gives reasons to buy new bikes and retailers cannot allways be believed that is why i appreciate very much the input from experienced riders. For me fat is about slow and with 36 and 22 in front my 36 in the back is nice to have when i carry stuff and saving my knees is more important than saving a few grams. Basically an 11 is not cheaper than 20 so for my use i would not really be making gains. I was just curious because around here many use 10 speeds to try to save i guess.
    Thanks!

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33red View Post
    There is no problem with me. I pretty much got my answers. The manufacturer in my opinion offer different things sometimes for newnest so it gives reasons to buy new bikes and retailers cannot allways be believed that is why i appreciate very much the input from experienced riders. For me fat is about slow and with 36 and 22 in front my 36 in the back is nice to have when i carry stuff and saving my knees is more important than saving a few grams. Basically an 11 is not cheaper than 20 so for my use i would not really be making gains. I was just curious because around here many use 10 speeds to try to save i guess.
    Thanks!
    I think it's a great topic of discussion and it's been fun hearing what works for different people in different areas and conditions. I live in an area of big mountains with steep climbs and deep snow, I can't seem to get gearing low enough, and I'm amazed at how easy it is to balance at low speeds with huge flat tires in soft snow, I'm able to ride at much slower speeds. I can see how people need to think towards summer riding and higher gearing, personally I think these tires are too expensive to ride them in anything but snow.

    I read an interesting story that someone had posted about a road trip they did in Colorado and compared the ways different people enjoyed fat biking, how trails were, what people thought were good and bad. All the different areas they went to seemed to enjoy slightly different trail styles, from groomed hardpack, to snowshoed singletrack, to mostly dirt. People are making the most of what they get in their area.

    Just interesting points of view, there is something for everyone. Just like gearing.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    If I spin any lower than the 28x42 that I have now I'll fall over!
    I'm also not afraid to stand up and hammer, and I actually prefer that, often choosing a higher gear and standing up on a climb - when practical.
    Even climbing up a certain 43 degree or so climb on a local trail, 28x42 is plenty low enough for me, and is already just crawling along. Can't imagine needing anything lower, but that's me and as we've seen in this thread everyone is different.
    Really? Different experience here... I ride sand and snow. Some single track too. But I find in sand and snow that the toughest sections that make you want to reflexively stand and mash that it is the worst thing to do. The weight shift makes the rear wheel spin and lose traction. Sugar sand? Keep your weight low and back on the saddle... You stand and you stop! Same thing riding snow shoe tracks this weekend. On climbs, if I stood I was done for.

    Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

  36. #36
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    Cool topic, now I'm going to try to check if I think a 40 or 42 tooth might fit on my 2 x 10 setup.

    Personally I always want lower gears, I spend a lot of time in 36 t in the back, I track stand a lot on super steep hills to catch a breath, and I even have a custom 20t chainring up front - ha ha! Still a 20 x 42 might even make me fall over…40 sounds awesome though!

    (disclaimer - I'm slow, and I also like to ride super steep hills at I-can't-breath-anymore-type altitude while wearing a somewhat heavy pack on my 37 lb bike)

  37. #37
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    I hear you, I used to run a custom 20t up front on my mountain bike. My house sits at 8,500ft and my rides go up from there. I can get to 12,500ft from my front door without touching pavement. I run 30x42 on my mtn bike now, and it feels pretty good but I'm sometimes looking for one more gear, reaching for it. But, maybe I should just get stronger.

  38. #38
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    If you currently have 2x10, I would recommend 1x10. It's an easy and relatively inexpensive conversion with a NW chainring on the front and either a Sunrace 11-42 cassette or addition of 42 tooth cog on the back with an existing 11-36 cassette. I have a Fatboy and I went with a Wolftooth 30T 104 bcd ring on the front and a Wolftooth GC 42T on the back. You could even leave the granny ring on in case you think you might need it. You would have to manually move it over, but it's there if you really need it. On my wife's bike, we went with the Sunrace wide range 11-42 10 sp cassette. It is a better cassette than the 11-36 Sunrace that came on the bike, and is not much more expensive than the 42T cog by itself.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    You could even leave the granny ring on in case you think you might need it. You would have to manually move it over, but it's there if you really need it.
    Awesome idea! Yeah, I've done the conversion on other bikes, really easy. I like the idea of leaving the 22t on and manually shifting. I've been reading about the Sunrace 11-42, is that a better option than the Wolftooth conversion? Shifting maybe a bit smoother?

  40. #40
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    I did my 1x10 conversion before the Sunrace cassette was available. When I did my wife's bike, I got the Sunrace 11-42. I would have done mine this way, if it was available at the time. It works great. It's much better than the Sunrace 11-36 that came on the 2015 Faboyz that dug into the free hub body. I had a heckuva time getting my original 11-36 cassette off. The new one has an Al carrier like Shimano cassettes and should be much better with the alloy free hub body.

  41. #41
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    the one time i definitely need my 22 on my 2x setup is when there is fresh snow fall and no one has cut in any trails yet. I am a reasonable fit guy, run and bike a bunch kind of take if half serious. If i didn't have the 22 chain ring after about 20 minutes of slogging through fresh snow my legs would be asking for a medflight. other than that i could probably see a 1x setup with a 28t or 30t up front being fine. especially if you have the bigger range cassette with the 42t cog on it.

    I understand the simplicity factor which can be nice but dropping the pound i don't think makes any difference on the bikes ability.

  42. #42
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    With a 28 and 42 you're very close to the 22 and 36.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by dayooper View Post
    With a 28 and 42 you're very close to the 22 and 36.
    Yes, almost spot on the same. But, unless someone knows where I can get a 104 bcd 28t, I'd have to change my crank out to a direct mount.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by skogorbet View Post
    Yes, almost spot on the same. But, unless someone knows where I can get a 104 bcd 28t, I'd have to change my crank out to a direct mount.
    Ah, gotcha. Guess I was responding to the guy above saying he needed the low-end of the 2x. In any case, I believe I saw a pic of someone's 28t/104 on here recently. Not sure how well it worked though, it did appear a little goofy.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by skogorbet View Post
    Yes, almost spot on the same. But, unless someone knows where I can get a 104 bcd 28t, I'd have to change my crank out to a direct mount.
    If you have a 64 BCD granny location on your crank, you can take a look at the 64 BCD chainrings from wolftooth and some others. Its dished outward to fix the chainline issues, and get it closer to where the middle ring location would put you.

    64 BCD Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com

  46. #46
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    Ridding a 2x setup I always find that there are a bunch of cogs I abuse while others are used once in a bluemoon. Going 1x has me use the entire cassette on regular basis, spreading out wear and not having to deal with a front derailleur.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    If you have a 64 BCD granny location on your crank, you can take a look at the 64 BCD chainrings from wolftooth and some others. Its dished outward to fix the chainline issues, and get it closer to where the middle ring location would put you.

    64 BCD Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com
    Ah... Nice! I hadn't thought of this. Good solution, this might do the trick. Thanks for the link.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PBL450 View Post
    Really? Different experience here... I ride sand and snow. Some single track too. But I find in sand and snow that the toughest sections that make you want to reflexively stand and mash that it is the worst thing to do. The weight shift makes the rear wheel spin and lose traction. Sugar sand? Keep your weight low and back on the saddle... You stand and you stop! Same thing riding snow shoe tracks this weekend. On climbs, if I stood I was done for.

    Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
    I hear ya - I'm talking about normal trails, dry or damp single track. Not sand or snow.
    On a slippery climb standing and mashing will have me slipping as well.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I think you mean you use the lower gears (larger cogs on the cassette). Yes, you are a fine candidate for going one by, especially since you dont need a wide range since you dont often push the higher (fatser) gears.

    Your existing stmp puller gear combo of 22/34 gives you a ratio of .647. Going 28t ring and 42t cassette gets you close at .667. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference IMO. The only downside is that to go 28t ring, youll likely need either a direct mount crank, or 64 BCD in the middle position.

    If you keep your existing crank, assuming 104 BCD, you can go down to 30t. That will give you .714 ratio on the low end. Thats slightly better than your current second lowest gear, 22/30 whish is .733. If you NEVER use yoru current absolute lowest 22/34 gear, then Id suggest going with the 30t up front.
    Yes! Thank you. I always mix up the wording with the gearing but i'm glad you caught what i'm talking about. Thinking of doing either a 26t or 28t but yeah i'll need a direct mount crankset in this case. Right now I have a Sram X5 crankset on my surly wednesday (100mm BB). Any recommendations? Looking for something that's not too pricey.

    Excuse my stupid questions but aside from the new crankset and cassette, will I need any other new parts? (Rear derailleur, new bottom bracket, etc?) my bottom bracket is a threaded sram gxp. I appreciate any help you guys give.

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    So, out on a ride today, I had some time to think about what to do. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need the 28t up front. But I got to thinking that I could pull apart my drivetrain on my mountain bike and swap it over to the fat bike, ride it and see if I like it. I may just need to get tougher. If that doesn't work I'll go the 28t 64 bcd route. Either way, I win!! I get to try before I buy..... I'll keep ya posted, if interested.

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    Single versus Double Chainring

    Quote Originally Posted by riverat View Post
    Yes! Thank you. I always mix up the wording with the gearing but i'm glad you caught what i'm talking about. Thinking of doing either a 26t or 28t but yeah i'll need a direct mount crankset in this case. Right now I have a Sram X5 crankset on my surly wednesday (100mm BB). Any recommendations? Looking for something that's not too pricey.

    Excuse my stupid questions but aside from the new crankset and cassette, will I need any other new parts? (Rear derailleur, new bottom bracket, etc?) my bottom bracket is a threaded sram gxp. I appreciate any help you guys give.
    Going 1x11 or 1x10? If 1x10 I would go with the Race Face Aeffect crankset. Assuming the spindle diameter matches should be able to use your stock BB. Stock cassette will be fine, but you might wanna look into a wolftooth GC(40/42)or possibly the sun race 11-42 cassette. 26t or 28t direct mount like you said. I believe the Wednesday comes with a X5 rear derailer? Not sure how well that would work 1x10, you may need to upgrade that rear derailer(x7/x9) if staying sram.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    @haste11

    Yeah I'm wanting to go 1x11 for sure because im sure I'll be using that extra chain ring during bikepacking expeditions. Yeah I have the x5 and will have to upgrade that too.. so the raceface aefect should work with my sram gxp bb? Sram has a 1x setup but it will only take down to a 30t which stinks.

    Once again thanks to anyone who helps. I'm still a noob with this..
    Last edited by riverat; 01-29-2016 at 08:34 PM.

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