fishman473: might it be more likely the bounce is coming from the saddle rails? with the saddle set so far back on the rails, its going to make it act as a cantilever.... still, a stiffer post or one with longer rail clamps may help? sweet bike btw. :-)~
here's my build list. Some of the weights are measured, some are claimed, some are pulled from the interweb, but they must be pretty close cause the final weight is almost exactly what I measured. Then again, I don't think this take into account the ridiculous stack of headset spacers I have above my stem.
A couple thoughts:
- You could drop perhaps a quarter pound more if you went with a lighter seatpost and saddle.
- As I said in a previous post a Carver Carbon O'Beast fork would save about 155 grams.
- A few grams could be saved with a lighter seat clamp and exchanging some steel bolts for Al/Ti.
- I'm sure there's a lighter crankset option out there but this was the cheapest option for me, and not too heavy.
- Went with brass nipples due to erosion concerns. Obviously if weight was your main target, Marge Light rims would save substantial weight over the Rolling Darylls (160g per wheel).
- If you can find some UL Casing Larrys you could save another 200 g compared to my build.
- I removed the headset badge, bottle cage bolts and drilled a bunch more holes in the rims. Total weight loss through these no/low-cost means was over 150 grams.
- Some people aren't going to want to loose the front brake. it saves well over a pound and In the 30 miles I have ridden this bike so far it hasn't been an issue. I am planning on getting one set up with a hing on the bar clamp so I can install/remove it easily. The one-brake set-up might be race day only, but in my past experience I find that the snow acts as a pretty good brake on its own.
In conclusion, a sub-25 lbs fat bike is now entirely possible, depends on how much you are willing to spend and what performance compromises you are willing to make.
Last edited by FishMan473; 12-20-2012 at 09:15 PM.
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I have a car. I made a choice. I ride my bike.
Regarding your Phil Wood BB, how long is the spindle?
I'm trying to puzzle out my Beargrease drivetrain and I'm wondering how your setup compares to the 100mm x 148mm FSA BB I'm going to try to use (because it's on hand).
After mounting my Escalators I've gotten my fully geared (size large) beargrease down to 25.89lbs. That's with tubes and a 2x10 drivetrain and pedals
If I was to tweek the parts mix a bit I am confident that I could shave another full pound from the total weight. In fact, after winter's over I may do just that and make it my full time XC bike.
Regarding your Phil Wood BB, how long is the spindle?
I'm trying to puzzle out my Beargrease drivetrain and I'm wondering how your setup compares to the 100mm x 148mm FSA BB I'm going to try to use (because it's on hand).
I had my shop order my BB for me so I'm not sure on the measurements, but I know its the shortest one they offer, I wanted the lowest q-factor possible. So I guess you can check their website to see which one I have. In the big cog and small ring it clears the tire with >5mm to spare so I think its all good. I am running it set up a little bit towards the drive side with a few theads of the retainer ring sticking out on that side, but the crank arms are exactly the same distance from the chain stays, as far as I can tell just by looking at it anyway. I want to say that there is an option for an off-set and a non-offset 100mm Phil Wood BB, I would suggest getting the offset, assuming the offset is to the drive side.
I was not aware that FSA offered a fatbike BB, not a square taper anyway, I saw that the FSA Platinum DH is available for ISIS cranksets.
I should also mention I am running 2x9 with a 32/22 up front. If I had it to do again I'd probably go with a 34 big ring, this bike is surprisingly fast on hard surfaces!
Last edited by FishMan473; 12-21-2012 at 07:41 AM.
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I have a car. I made a choice. I ride my bike.
BTW, does anyone know if you can fit a 100mm rim in a Beargrease? Is that going to make the tire too big to fit in the frame/around the drivetrain? I have a friend running 80 up front and 100 in back with 3.7-4.0 tires on a Fatback and it seems like a pretty smart set-up.
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I have a car. I made a choice. I ride my bike.
I was not aware that FSA offered a fatbike BB, not a square taper anyway, I saw that the FSA Platinum DH is available for ISIS cranksets.
I should also mention I am running 2x9 with a 32/22 up front. If I had it to do again I'd probably go with a 34 big ring, this bike is surprisingly fast on hard surfaces!
All I have is road bike parts except for the 100mm x 148mm Isis BB. So I'm going to try 1 x something drivetrain, FSA Isis crank with 34t chain ring. Maybe Sram XX1 or there's a company that makes giant MTB cogs you can buy one at a time. I have the bookmark somewhere but I'm not going to look for it unless somebody really wants it.
Rear Tire Clearance
Designed for 26 x 4.0" tires on 82mm rims with full drivetrain, 4.0" tires or BFL on 100mm rims with modified drivetrain (emphasis mine). Not compatible with Surly Lou or Knard tires
Bummer. Just for shits and giggles I'm going to grab his wheel at some point and see if it fits in my frame. I can't imagine the Clown Shoes would make the tire that much wider where it matters for frame/chain clearance.
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I have a car. I made a choice. I ride my bike.
The quote from Salsa says not compatible with Lou or Knard tires. Do they mean Lou or Bud tires? I thought the Knards were "normal" fat sized. I was planning on running Knards front and rear on my BG.
After mounting my Escalators I've gotten my fully geared (size large) beargrease down to 25.89lbs. That's with tubes and a 2x10 drivetrain and pedals
If I was to tweek the parts mix a bit I am confident that I could shave another full pound from the total weight. In fact, after winter's over I may do just that and make it my full time XC bike.
Do you have a picture of your build or a parts list?
Do you have a picture of your build or a parts list?
pic in the Beargrease thread on page 2..
Beargrease frameset
Schlick Northpaw rims laced to Hope hubs
Escalator tires w/QBP downhill tubes
Salsa skewers
Cane Creek 110 headset
XTR deraileurs, shifters, brake levers/calipers
XT rotors, cassette, chain
eThirteen double crankset
Salsa pro moto stem
Salsa pro moto bar
Thomson elite post (setback)
Sella Italia Flite carbon saddle
crank bros 3 pedals
I could lighten her up a bit. might get an SLR saddle when winter's over. XTR Rotors, Cassette & Chain will shave some weight. My ethirteen crank is the old tripple. If I were to upgrade to the new double specific model I'd shave some more weight.
Last edited by Scottytheoneandonly; 12-24-2012 at 12:22 PM.
Hey Scotty how do you like the Schlick wheel setup? I'm think of the same for my hard pack wheel set and keeping the HRD's for floaty loose stuff. What do they do to the footprint of the escalators? Width? Thanks for the help and great build you have there!
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Originally Posted by FrY10cK
