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  1. #1
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    Rolling darryl tubeless

    Any info on setting up some drilled out rolling darryl's tubeless?

  2. #2
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    Try using the search function. There are several detailed threads, and at least a few different methods that work.

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    ^ beat me to it!

  4. #4
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    CLICK HERE, these are the results if you search "tubeless" in the fatbike forum titles, the advanced search function on MTBR works a treat.
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  5. #5
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    Tanks, have and will continue to see how yall are going about the tubeless set up... are you uesing new tires or used? what yall think about the origin8 Devist8er 60tpi tires? snow or dirt?

  6. #6
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    Getting the Nates with the Rolling Darryls tubeless was super easy for me. Just used 3 layers of duct tape over the rim stripe: One layer on the left, one on the right and one in the middle.
    Here is a picture of the first layer:

    darryl tubeless - Fotoalbum auf MTB-News.de
    Then I used a NoTubes valve and inflated the tire with a compressor. Holds the air for one week now, no extra padding with foam in the center was needed.
    Last edited by kolt; 01-21-2013 at 02:46 AM.

  7. #7
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    The padding in the center doesn't affect how the tire holds air once the beads are seated. It only makes seating the bead easier with a floor pump. In case you need to work on the tires out there, a setup that allows seating the bead without a compressor is highly advisable. Foam doesn't weigh much: my rim tape and foam all together weigh 20 grams per wheel and that's with a Clown Shoe.

  8. #8
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    Been having great luck with the split tube set up on many bikes now.

    I generally use foam under the tube as it does ease initial seating. I'd recommend running the tires with tubes for several rides, just so they are settled into final shape, makes for easier seating as well. That being said, I set up a lot of folks bikes, with brand new tires, and only a minimum of flocking around.

    Origin 8's? Decent tire, especially for the $, heavy, and the flatter carcass profile does lend itself to a lot of self steering feel when used up front. My two cents, YMMV.
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  9. #9
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    No good

    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    The padding in the center doesn't affect how the tire holds air once the beads are seated. It only makes seating the bead easier with a floor pump. In case you need to work on the tires out there, a setup that allows seating the bead without a compressor is highly advisable. Foam doesn't weigh much: my rim tape and foam all together weigh 20 grams per wheel and that's with a Clown Shoe.
    I don't see the point in the foam. It made it difficult for me to get the beads oner the foam to inflate the tire, and I had a hard time getting things to seal, so I went without it, and had better success. If I'm working on my tire on the trail, I'm putting a tube in

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoogieMang View Post
    If I'm working on my tire on the trail, I'm putting a tube in
    Same here. And Stan's NoTubes valves are much easier to replace with a tube on the trail than the split-tube solution.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoogieMang View Post
    I don't see the point in the foam. It made it difficult for me to get the beads oner the foam to inflate the tire, and I had a hard time getting things to seal, so I went without it, and had better success. If I'm working on my tire on the trail, I'm putting a tube in
    If you get the beads to seat without the foam, it is indeed unnecessary.

    On some rims the center part has such a small diameter that the beads won't seat without a compressor. I put just enough foam that I can still put the tires on the rim by hand, yet the beads seat with a floor pump.

    A strap tightened around the center of the tire helps to bring the beads closer to the edges, in case it's a new tire that hasn't found its shape yet. Remember to loosen it as soon as the beads start climbing towards the edge, or it'll become too tight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kolt View Post
    Same here. And Stan's NoTubes valves are much easier to replace with a tube on the trail than the split-tube solution.
    Beg to differ. I can take my spit tube liner off just as quick as anybody can take off their Stans valve. What's the difference???

  13. #13
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    To remove a Stan's valve you don't need to remove the tire and mount it again. A slight time advantage there.

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    can you freaks stay focused?...???

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by willonabike1968 View Post
    can you freaks stay focused?...???
    Sorry, but I don't quite get your point.

  16. #16
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    A post containing nothing but complaining about OT is as much OT as the original post that wasn't on topic.

    Besides, the differences between taped tubeless vs. split tube rim strip are very much on the topic of setting up a Rolling Darryl tubeless.

  17. #17
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    @willonabike1968: That's a really kind way to treat people who try to find the best solution to go tubeless for you. Classy!

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    appoloigies, The term "Freak" is of endearment for those of us that LOVE the "BIKE"... no offence. Of course I'm going to use Stan's valve stems. but back to tires, the only ones i could get my hands on are the origin8 devistateor ul (heavy yes) have anyone set them up with ay success. treadorientation?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by willonabike1968 View Post
    appoloigies, The term "Freak" is of endearment for those of us that LOVE the "BIKE"... no offence. Of course I'm going to use Stan's valve stems. but back to tires, the only ones i could get my hands on are the origin8 devistateor ul (heavy yes) have anyone set them up with ay success. treadorientation?
    Having just mounted one this weekend (assuming you're referring to the non folding version) I'd say best of luck to you. At a minimum, run the tire for a few weeks/rides, to "forge" it into shape. New, they are a b*tch to mount, period due to being so freakin' stiff. Getting them to "pooch" properly to catch tubeless, is gonna be a job and a half. Folding may be a whole different animal, haven't had my hands on any....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    The padding in the center doesn't affect how the tire holds air once the beads are seated. It only makes seating the bead easier with a floor pump. In case you need to work on the tires out there, a setup that allows seating the bead without a compressor is highly advisable. Foam doesn't weigh much: my rim tape and foam all together weigh 20 grams per wheel and that's with a Clown Shoe.
    good luck using a pack pump or co2 "out there" youll pump for an hour or youll need several co2 for that high volume tire

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoogieMang View Post
    If I'm working on my tire on the trail, I'm putting a tube in
    this!

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    I think that putting a tube in if you suffer a loss of pressure on the trail is the way to go.

    How has the Stan's been holding up to extended cold temperatures? Say a 40-60 ride/race in 20 degree or cooler temps?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan0 View Post
    good luck using a pack pump or co2 "out there" youll pump for an hour or youll need several co2 for that high volume tire
    Yep, it would definitely be a pain in the ass. But filling up a fat tire is a lot of work with or without a tube in any case. Tubeless tires have a form already, but with a tube you'll be starting from virtually zero volume.

    If you have better ideas (apart from carrying a large volume pump) let's hear them.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    Yep, it would definitely be a pain in the ass. But filling up a fat tire is a lot of work with or without a tube in any case. Tubeless tires have a form already, but with a tube you'll be starting from virtually zero volume.

    If you have better ideas (apart from carrying a large volume pump) let's hear them.
    True. I've changed one flat on my pugsley. I used a hand pump to pre-inflate the tube, then installed it, and used 2 co2 cartridges. It was enough to get back.

  25. #25
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    A bud to about 7psi using a Qtube UL.

    Blew the tube up by mouth till it took shape (not easy)
    Hit with 2 x 16g Co2 cartridges
    Still needed approx 200 pumps with a Lezyne alloy drive.

    Gave up, tyre still on the soft side, rode back to the car as it was all downhill and i had no spares left except patches and pump, i reckon it would have take me at least an hour to pump a 4.8 up
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  26. #26
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    With a Lezyne Micro Floor Drive I hit the 8PSI pretty fast:
    Lezyne High Volume Bicycle Hand Pumps

  27. #27
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    For the guys who are running these wheels tubeless. Are you having any burping issues while riding in rocky terrain? What tire pressure?

  28. #28
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    I have dinged my rim running split tube tubeless with no burping issue. Also I have ran with the pressure so low the side wall was wrinkling in snowy conditions with no problems. With that said i would think it could happen.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saul Lumikko View Post
    Yep, it would definitely be a pain in the ass. But filling up a fat tire is a lot of work with or without a tube in any case. Tubeless tires have a form already, but with a tube you'll be starting from virtually zero volume.

    If you have better ideas (apart from carrying a large volume pump) let's hear them.
    you could wear a bandolier loaded with co2s

  30. #30
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    I tried the split tube method on RD and nates. I think I made a mistake by adding stans prior to seating beads?

    Q-tubes 24" 2.4-2.75" tube was used. Floor pump wasn't even close, and compressor did nothing.

  31. #31
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    Hi Kolt,

    Thanks for sharing your pics/experience. Can I ask you, are you using the kevlar bead/120 tpi Nates for your tubeless setup? If so, I'd like to try the same on my bike.



    Quote Originally Posted by kolt View Post
    Getting the Nates with the Rolling Darryls tubeless was super easy for me. Just used 3 layers of duct tape over the rim stripe: One layer on the left, one on the right and one in the middle.
    ...

    Then I used a NoTubes valve and inflated the tire with a compressor. Holds the air for one week now, no extra padding with foam in the center was needed.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I tried the split tube method on RD and nates. I think I made a mistake by adding stans prior to seating beads?

    Q-tubes 24" 2.4-2.75" tube was used. Floor pump wasn't even close, and compressor did nothing.
    Try using a ratchet strap to compress the tire to the rim

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flat Again??? View Post
    Hi Kolt,
    Thanks for sharing your pics/experience. Can I ask you, are you using the kevlar bead/120 tpi Nates for your tubeless setup? If so, I'd like to try the same on my bike.
    Yes, it's the 120tpi Nate I'm using. Good luck!

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post

    Q-tubes 24" 2.4-2.75" tube was used. Floor pump wasn't even close, and compressor did nothing.
    Did you build up with foam?

  35. #35
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    Thats where the foam comes into it, they can be inflated with a floor pump very easily.
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  36. #36
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    I did not use any foam. I will have to give that a try tonight along with a ratchet strap.

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    Strap did nothing for me. I had to use two layers of foam

  38. #38
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    I think I will stick with a tube. I don't have thorns in my area, and its not super rocky.

    Anyone need a tube that has been cut in half?

  39. #39
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    Just foam the middle. I had about 4-5 failed attempts before I got it right.

    I have just received new lightweight tape and going to try a different foam with less memory as I have a tube in one wheel after spiking it with a stick.

    The gorilla tape works well but it's messy and heavy
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by kolt View Post
    Same here. And Stan's NoTubes valves are much easier to replace with a tube on the trail than the split-tube solution.
    True... Absolutely.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrcRS View Post
    I think that putting a tube in if you suffer a loss of pressure on the trail is the way to go.

    How has the Stan's been holding up to extended cold temperatures? Say a 40-60 ride/race in 20 degree or cooler temps?
    No problem...

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    Just foam the middle. I had about 4-5 failed attempts before I got it right.

    I have just received new lightweight tape and going to try a different foam with less memory as I have a tube in one wheel after spiking it with a stick.

    The gorilla tape works well but it's messy and heavy
    Yeah, that's the downside of using foam -- you add back the weight you save by removing the tubes. If you can get it to air up initially without the foam in the center, you're way better off all around, because once it's aired-up, the foam is unnecessary.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by winkster View Post
    For the guys who are running these wheels tubeless. Are you having any burping issues while riding in rocky terrain? What tire pressure?
    I had issues with burps and the bead leaking in general. It was rideable but sometimes I would have to pump up mid ride. It was much worse at lower pressures. This was with a folding larry and endo. I put a couple layers of tape on the bead shelf and it all went away, even at the lowest of pressures. I assume the split tube method would avoid this too.



    Quote Originally Posted by mgersib View Post
    Yeah, that's the downside of using foam -- you add back the weight you save by removing the tubes. If you can get it to air up initially without the foam in the center, you're way better off all around, because once it's aired-up, the foam is unnecessary.
    The foam I used weighed next to nothing. And I put it under the tape so I don't have to worry about it soaking up sealant. That being said, with the tape and a healthy does of sealant they weigh almost exactly the same as they did with super light Qtubes (which is still a weight savings).
    Whatever floats your bike, dude

  44. #44
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    The packing tape I used to cover the rim holes and two rounds of sill foam weighed 20 grams.

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