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  1. #401
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    Thanks for posting that adenton42. Gives one hope.
    As for my Lou, the LBS tried one off the shelf and it had the same issue and a snaky part. He felt it was worse than mine. He called Surly and they are sending out a new Lou.

    urmb
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  2. #402
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    Blizzard owners only

    We have a new FB group page for Blizzard owners called: BLIZZARD Watch (Fatbikes). If you own a Blizzard please find us on Facebook.
    Thx.
    http://https://www.facebook.com/groups/322423367942690/

  3. #403
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    Picked up a blizzard the other day. What an awesome bike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rocky Mountain Blizzard Fat Bike-2015-01-01-13.47.26.jpg  


  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by lstone84 View Post
    The Fatboy does climb better though
    Due to the head angle you reckon?
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluedog11 View Post
    Looked at the Blizzard today. Thinking of purchasing one as my first fat bike. I like the 1 by 10 gearing but am concerned with the low gearing. The high gear of 24 front 11 rear is very low. Any thoughts on this? My other 26 inch mountain bikes have a high gear of 32 front and 11 rear which I use. Any impressions of the gearing?
    I've wondered about this too. RM is marketing the Blizzard as a "true mountain-bike-feeling fat bike" (whatever that means) and yet specs a front chainring that's too small for anything but slow speed crawling. Kinda limits the versatility of the bike IMO.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by r1Gel View Post
    I've wondered about this too. RM is marketing the Blizzard as a "true mountain-bike-feeling fat bike" (whatever that means) and yet specs a front chainring that's too small for anything but slow speed crawling. Kinda limits the versatility of the bike IMO.
    There have been only a few instances were I spun out due to gearing. mostly downhill fire roads. And I am running in the lower tooth gears more than my non-fatties 29" that are 30 and 32 tooth fronts. But I haven't found it limiting at all.

  7. #407
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    I converted my blizzard to 2x10 before i even rode it. My riding buddy still has his 1x10 (stock factory)...that 1x10 is really limiting when your riding to/from the trails here. he keeps mentioning he should convert it... he has everything needed except the 2 chainrings!.

    The 24 that comes with it is hopeless for doing any real road work, and is not small enough for serious steep gnarly uphills. 1x11 or 2x10 (36/22) is the go here

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamtaro View Post
    I converted my blizzard to 2x10 before i even rode it. My riding buddy still has his 1x10 (stock factory)...that 1x10 is really limiting when your riding to/from the trails here. he keeps mentioning he should convert it... he has everything needed except the 2 chainrings!.

    The 24 that comes with it is hopeless for doing any real road work, and is not small enough for serious steep gnarly uphills. 1x11 or 2x10 (36/22) is the go here
    My thoughts exactly. I find it strange how RM spec'd this bike. Probably just to hit the price point.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamtaro View Post
    I converted my blizzard to 2x10 before i even rode it. My riding buddy still has his 1x10 (stock factory)...that 1x10 is really limiting when your riding to/from the trails here. he keeps mentioning he should convert it... he has everything needed except the 2 chainrings!.

    The 24 that comes with it is hopeless for doing any real road work, and is not small enough for serious steep gnarly uphills. 1x11 or 2x10 (36/22) is the go here
    I'm considering converting mine also. Would you mind listing what particular parts you used for the conversion? Thanks!

  10. #410
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    Shimano SLX shifter, raceface turbine 36/22 chainrings (only cause raceface use some sort of odd offset) Shimano XT direct mount FD.

    The Crank does not use a self extracting bolt (cheap skates!!) so you need a decent crank puller, it took 2 of us to undo the bolt. There are no bolts supplied to mount the FD - I used shimano spd cleat bolts, perfect fit.

    Converted it really is just like an oversized mtb

  11. #411
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    @kwarwick I have a few parts that I took off my Surly ICT that I am selling: SLX shifters; SLX directmount front der.
    I see that we live close to one another.

    They are brand new parts.

    PM if interested and I'll send you links.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamtaro View Post
    Shimano SLX shifter, raceface turbine 36/22 chainrings (only cause raceface use some sort of odd offset) Shimano XT direct mount FD.

    The Crank does not use a self extracting bolt (cheap skates!!) so you need a decent crank puller, it took 2 of us to undo the bolt. There are no bolts supplied to mount the FD - I used shimano spd cleat bolts, perfect fit.

    Converted it really is just like an oversized mtb
    Thanks for the details!

    How is the shifting with the XT FD? Looking at the specs for the FD-M785 it isn't an perfect match for 22/36 front rings. (38/40 big chainring and 12T capacity). SLX version has 14T capacity but the same big ring specs. I'm guessing it works but maybe you get some chain rub on the derailleur in the 22 ring?

  13. #413
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    My Surly O. D. crankset came with 22/36t chainrings and spec'ed with the SLX front der, so that combo works.

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by wArden View Post
    My Surly O. D. crankset came with 22/36t chainrings and spec'ed with the SLX front der, so that combo works.
    I'm sure Surly wouldn't sell a combo that doesn't work, but it may not be optimal.

    The matching Shimano's 2x10 SLX crank sets are available in 38/26 or 40/28 so the derailleur was designed specifically for those chain ring combos. SRAM seems to have X7 model specifically for 36/22 combo, but these are perhaps not as readily available or Surly had a contract with Shimano.

  15. #415
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    It's a Shimano SLX FD-676D and I know first hand that it works with a 22/36t, no clearance issues.
    We have a few bikes in the shop that I work at that have this setup.
    As I said, the one I'm selling is brand new.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by wArden View Post
    It's a Shimano SLX FD-676D and I know first hand that it works with a 22/36t, no clearance issues.
    We have a few bikes in the shop that I work at that have this setup.
    As I said, the one I'm selling is brand new.
    Rocky is using E2 style direct mount, so that derailleur wouldn't work.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    Rocky is using E2 style direct mount, so that derailleur wouldn't work.
    Okay, the main thing is that you get exactly what you need.

  18. #418
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    I guess it really comes down to where you ride...in Ontario the 24t x 11-36 is a perfect winter setup...I've been a-ok with 28t x 11-36 on my Mukluk but I suppose moving to 24t on the Blizzard I'll be using a wider range of cogs on the cassette.

    I'm hoping that RF starts selling N/W granny rings after market but not sure if that'll happen given that they're already doing the 104bcd N/W rings as well as their direct mount N/W rings
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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdotrider View Post
    I guess it really comes down to where you ride...in Ontario the 24t x 11-36 is a perfect winter setup...I've been a-ok with 28t x 11-36 on my Mukluk but I suppose moving to 24t on the Blizzard I'll be using a wider range of cogs on the cassette.
    I agree, so far the 24 with the 11-36 cassette so far has been fine for trail riding... my only concern is when I ride on roads (trail <-> home) I'll be spinning like mad man to keep a reasonable speed. One suggestion I'm considering is just putting another ring in place of the bash guard and then manually moving the chain between rings. Pretty low tech, but since it would only be done for the road portion of the ride it would likely be manageable.

  20. #420
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    That would certainly work, so long as your chain is long enough to accommodate the bigger chainring...I do something similar in the summer with a dinglespeed setup - one gear for trail, another for bike path or towing the kiddie trailer. It's a bit ghetto but it works...
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  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    One suggestion I'm considering is just putting another ring in place of the bash guard and then manually moving the chain between rings.
    That's super oldschool roadie style.
    Back in the early 1900's they were running singlespeed and would have a different sized cog on the opposite side of their rear hub. When they would start a climb they would flip the wheel around for an easier gear.

    I am finding the 24t 11-36rear good for winter as well in Ontario trails. I agree having the bigger chainring is ideal for the road bits.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    Thanks for the details!

    How is the shifting with the XT FD? Looking at the specs for the FD-M785 it isn't an perfect match for 22/36 front rings. (38/40 big chainring and 12T capacity). SLX version has 14T capacity but the same big ring specs. I'm guessing it works but maybe you get some chain rub on the derailleur in the 22 ring?
    Don't have any chain rub, FD just sits a wee bit higher than it should. Drops down onto the 22 fine, takes a wee bit more effort to get it from 22 to 36, but still totally acceptable. Had to go for the XT as they are not stocking SLX FD's here for some reason. The raceface rings are c*** compared to shimano...softer alloy etc

  23. #423
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    Rocky Mountain Blizzard Fat Bike-img_20150107_072945%5B1%5D.jpgRocky Mountain Blizzard Fat Bike-img_20150107_073150%5B1%5D.jpg

    FD sits higher than its supposed to but works, haven't dropped the chain over the top of the 36 yet and only dropped it once onto the bb shell on a flat sealed road!!

    If SRAM make a FD for 36/22 combo that would be the way to go as long as its available in the correct mounting. May have to look into that.

    Am I the only one who despises direct mount FD's?

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamtaro View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    FD sits higher than its supposed to but works, haven't dropped the chain over the top of the 36 yet and only dropped it once onto the bb shell on a flat sealed road!!

    If SRAM make a FD for 36/22 combo that would be the way to go as long as its available in the correct mounting. May have to look into that.

    Am I the only one who despises direct mount FD's?
    Yeah these direct mount derailleurs are pretty lame.... if you could just move that derailleur down a more I'm sure it would improve the shifting.

    SRAM definitely has FDs optimized for 2x 36/22 rings, in both X0 and X7 levels.

    X0: New SRAM X0 2x10 Speed Front Derailleur Low Direct Mount S3 36T Bottom Pull | eBay

    X7: SRAM x7 Front Derailleur 2x10 Low Direct Mount S3 36T Dual Pull MTB Front Mech | eBay


    SRAM's 2015 drivetrain compatibility chart: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....components.pdf

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    Yeah these direct mount derailleurs are pretty lame.... if you could just move that derailleur down a more I'm sure it would improve the shifting.

    SRAM definitely has FDs optimized for 2x 36/22 rings, in both X0 and X7 levels.

    X0: New SRAM X0 2x10 Speed Front Derailleur Low Direct Mount S3 36T Bottom Pull | eBay

    X7: SRAM x7 Front Derailleur 2x10 Low Direct Mount S3 36T Dual Pull MTB Front Mech | eBay


    SRAM's 2015 drivetrain compatibility chart: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....components.pdf
    Have got my LBS to see what is available here...hopefully there is an x7 FD otherwise the XT one will have to do for now.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamtaro View Post
    Have got my LBS to see what is available here...hopefully there is an x7 FD otherwise the XT one will have to do for now.
    Another possible solution is FD-M665 if you can find one. This is the previous gen SLX FD made specifically for 36/22 double crank set. Technically its a 9 speed front derailleur, but in my experience 8/9/10 speed doesn't matter with front derailleurs.

  27. #427
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    ordered a blizzard, just got the basic one as I dont think the bluto will enjoy the sand it will see every ride
    Josh

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by emp? View Post
    ordered a blizzard, just got the basic one as I dont think the bluto will enjoy the sand it will see every ride
    What did your LBS say the delivery time would be?

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducman View Post
    What did your LBS say the delivery time would be?
    Curious about that too, mine said he wasn't expecting any more this season and the wait would likely be till August.

  30. #430
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    Hey Guys, I have a Blizzard that I want to pull off the Bluto fork ad replace it with something rigid. Where can I get the information on the correct fork to buy? Will any old fatbike fork keep the geometry correct?

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by hardcore11 View Post
    Hey Guys, I have a Blizzard that I want to pull off the Bluto fork ad replace it with something rigid. Where can I get the information on the correct fork to buy? Will any old fatbike fork keep the geometry correct?
    Actually the choices are somewhat limited at the moment. Most of the rigid forks on the market are based on 135mm front spacing, but we need 150mm to match the wider hubs used with the Bluto. Framed has one for their Alaskan fat bike. Alaskan Carbon Fork | Framed Bikes

  32. #432
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    eta should be straight away looking at the stock sheet, im in australia and we are on our 2nd shipment for the 2015 season
    Josh

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwarwick View Post
    Actually the choices are somewhat limited at the moment. Most of the rigid forks on the market are based on 135mm front spacing, but we need 150mm to match the wider hubs used with the Bluto. Framed has one for their Alaskan fat bike. Alaskan Carbon Fork | Framed Bikes
    After seeing that the Framed carbon fork is rather expensive @ US$399.95 I looked around a bit more and found this one on eBay at a much nicer price: 2015 Fatbike Carbon Fork 15 150mm Skewer D Brake Snow Bike Carbon Fork New Sale | eBay

  34. #434
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    So while I am patiently waiting for my LBS to replace my rear hub, my curiosity is getting the better of me. Has anyone weighed the factory rigid fork by itself? Thx.
    "All this corncob pipe smoke is irritating my stab wounds"

  35. #435
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    well i have the bike, rides really nice
    this is my 3rd fatbike and i love the way it handles
    rear hub made a huge bang when i first rode it but seemed solid after that
    fingers cross it holds up to the first real ride tomorrow
    Josh

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by adenton42 View Post
    So while I am patiently waiting for my LBS to replace my rear hub, my curiosity is getting the better of me. Has anyone weighed the factory rigid fork by itself? Thx.
    Someone elsewhere posted that the rigid Blizzard fork, with axle and crown race, came in at 1240g

    seems a bit much considering Salsa's aluminum Bearpaw fork is a claimed 720g
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  37. #437
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    720g is for the carbon Salsa Makwa fork that comes on the Beargrease.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Windigo View Post
    720g is for the carbon Salsa Makwa fork that comes on the Beargrease.
    This must be a typo though...same goes for the aluminum 2013 Beargrease fork that is also a claimed 720g...

    Universal Cycles -- Salsa Bearpaw Fat Bike Fork
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  39. #439
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    The Beargrease al fork is also a qr 135 fork, not a thru axle 150mm fork like the one on the Rocky. I just weighed a RM Blizzard fork. 1230 including the axle and star nut. 1100 with the axle out.

    I would also like to add a bit about the rear hub on the Blizzard. So far, I've been on mine for about 2 months. The rear hub has seen a lot of miles and a lot of heavy torque. So far, it has been problem free. I degreased it when it was new and lubed it with Hadley teflon oil. Also, it is imperitive to check every few rides that the hub is tight. Put a 17mm wrench on either end of the axle and get it tight. Hubs like this will blow up if they come even a little loose. Loose axles let the freehub move slightly so the pawls don't get the precise engagement they need. I'm confident that with good maintenance, this hub is a decent hub.
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  40. #440
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    Good point about the Beargrease fork being 135 QR...I think the new Bearpaw is 150x15 so that would be a better comparison

    The mechanic at my LBS said exactly the same thing about the rear hub - that once degrease & re-lubed out of the box, followed by regular checking of the axle for tightness it shouldn't let you down. Hopefully that will alleviate some concern about the rear hub for folks on the fence about this bike...
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  41. #441
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    The 2014 QR drop out Bearpaw I bought weighed over 900 grams without crown race.

    Quote Originally Posted by tdotrider View Post
    Someone elsewhere posted that the rigid Blizzard fork, with axle and crown race, came in at 1240g

    seems a bit much considering Salsa's aluminum Bearpaw fork is a claimed 720g
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  42. #442
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    loving my blizzard so far

    Rocky Mountain Blizzard Fat Bike-img_4917.jpg


    So far this bike has been great. planning a long ride on it for tomorrow. Goodbye trainer!

  43. #443
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    Carbon Beargrease has a 142X15 through axle.

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    I really liked the Beargrease Aluminum fork, mine weighed 724 but I wanted the longer axel to crown that the Bearpaw offered and they listed it at the same weight so I bought one and was shocked that it was heavier than the Beargrease by more than 200 grams. I wanted lighter so I ordered a Carbon Makwa (listed @720) it weighed almost as much as the Bearpaw, I returned it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Windigo View Post
    720g is for the carbon Salsa Makwa fork that comes on the Beargrease.
    Quote Originally Posted by tdotrider View Post
    This must be a typo though...same goes for the aluminum 2013 Beargrease fork that is also a claimed 720g...

    Universal Cycles -- Salsa Bearpaw Fat Bike Fork
    Lucky neighbor of Maryland's Patapsco Valley State Park, 39.23,-76.76 Flickr

  45. #445
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    first real ride, rear hub slips with any real force put on it (still seated)
    pulled it down and its full of thick white seamen looking grease
    lets hope the new light oil fixes it or it can go back to rocky
    Josh

  46. #446
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    still slips, what a pos! dont even need to get out of the saddle, just load it up and pop it goes
    Josh

  47. #447
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    One of my friend rince clean the ratchet system, poor a couple of drops of synth oil and voila. Been two weeks and no slip. He did that with the new hub he received from warranty (once you skips , their is nothing to be done)

  48. #448
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    im going to put a hope hub in it wont slip then, but yeah the pawls look very round on the corners from the factory its no wonder they dont engage well
    Josh

  49. #449
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    Before riding my Blizzard for the first time I cleaned out the factory grease and replaced with Slick Honey. Even after doing so I think the hub slipped once near the beginning of the very first ride (hard to tell if it was the freehub or the chain slipped on the cassette), but hasn't reoccurred since so I hope that bodes well.

    The internal design of this freehub with 6 pawls looks like it should be up to the task, but I think the problem is the leaf springs behind the pawls just aren't very strong and along with the thick factory grease I could see this leading to the pawls engaging slowly/partially and then popping out of the teeth under load.

  50. #450
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    I bought a blizzard deore and am waiting for it to arrive. Can anyone tell me how long of a steerer tube I would need on a bluto to fit on the blizzard?
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  51. #451
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    Photos of a Surly Lou setup tubeless on the stock Mulefut rims. Not a alot of clearance but it's good. Large size frame.

    Rocky Mountain Blizzard Fat Bike-img_8888.jpgRocky Mountain Blizzard Fat Bike-img_8889.jpg

  52. #452
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    Last edited by mfc1972; 12-09-2015 at 11:46 AM.

  53. #453
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    my LBS has trek, specialized and Rocky. Im thinking i want a Blizzard Deore.... vs the other two. I may put a 30 tooth on the front and a 40 maybe 42 tooth rear cassette if i find it too slow.... Some dillinger 5s for winter. and ride the crap out of it.

    mainly i like the components over the specialized. and i like i can run a dillinger 5 over the trek......... and i have a rocky mountain right now and like sticking to one brand.

    wasnt sure on the bulldozer tires but i guess they roll good but still have grip when they bog down in soft soils....

  54. #454
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    In case anyone else is thinking about the 4.8 knard, it fits with about 1/8" clearance with the stock rims on my XL frame.

    I had to move a spacer in the bottom bracket to stop the chain from rubbing the side lugs.

    Edit- these are not going to fit without wear on the seat stay bridge. They've grown a little after 1 ride and 24hrs.
    Last edited by Rangie; 05-05-2015 at 06:18 AM.

  55. #455
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    This year, Rocky Mountain has brought back the Blizzard as their only fatbike offering. There are three different levels this season all named after the different temperatures you'll be riding in. Pricing is as follows.
    -10° $1,299
    -30° $2,199
    -50° $2,999
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyJo1 View Post
    This year, Rocky Mountain has brought back the Blizzard as their only fatbike offering. There are three different levels this season all named after the different temperatures you'll be riding in. Pricing is as follows.
    -10° $1,299
    -30° $2,199
    -50° $2,999
    Yah i seen those this spring. -10 is grey and is a base model, -30 is turquoise and the old deore, the -50 is white and it the bluto model.
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  57. #457
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    I like the colour of the 30 maybe the local shop will bring one in this year.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyJo1 View Post
    This year, Rocky Mountain has brought back the Blizzard as their only fatbike offering. There are three different levels this season all named after the different temperatures you'll be riding in. Pricing is as follows.
    -10° $1,299
    -30° $2,199
    -50° $2,999
    Is this US or Canadian? Seems like a big price jump if $USD.

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangie View Post
    Is this US or Canadian? Seems like a big price jump if $USD.
    It was posted on a Canadian shop Web page.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  60. #460
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    Any pictures of the new colors? Are they doing a frame kit this year too?
    Marin Bobcat Trail 29er - Trek Farley 8

  61. #461
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    Yes I have pictures of the 50 and the 30 I'll post them when I get home from work
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  62. #462
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    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  63. #463
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    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  64. #464
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    Both look nice. Thanks for posting
    Marin Bobcat Trail 29er - Trek Farley 8

  65. #465
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    i liked last years colour scheme better TBH. The black with totem graphics was a real looker.
    Mike
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  66. #466
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    Hi! May I ask you what width in between SS and CS at knob shoulder? ~135mm or more?
    Last edited by skoroed; 12-22-2015 at 08:14 AM.

  67. #467
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    Anyone with a '16, how has your experience been with the rear hub. Anyone have success with the update kit? I've had bad luck with mine. Can't seem to get one ride without something going wrong with the freehub. It's stripped pawls/ring twice, and now drags and winds the chain up. Only 6 or so rides on it. I weight 155 lbs.

  68. #468
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    I have a -30 that's a 2016. So far, no problems on about a dozen rides. Which rear hub is on your bike? I also weigh 155 lbs, so far so good.

  69. #469
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    Sun ringle SRC. Pretty sure it's the same hub

  70. #470
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    I have the '15 model with the Bluto. About 20 rides last winter, 40 something so far since mid-september. Singletrack exclusively with tons of sudden incline changes. The hub skips once or twice per run under heavy load. Around 205 lbs. I'm actually surprised it doesnt give me more grief than that. I can live with it until it blows up on me. It's the Wheeltech Fatso.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew325 View Post
    Sun ringle SRC. Pretty sure it's the same hub
    If she blows or I end up having any trouble with it I'll let you know.

  72. #472
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    Thought I'd update. The LBS fixed the hub. The one bearing shifted slightly when the axle was tapped out. Just had to tap it back into place, and we're good to go. The shop owner said that it should be good now that it has the updated hardened pawls as well.

    In other news, I ordered a 28 tooth cinch DM ring for it, and I'm going to try the Sun Race 42 Tooth 10 spd cassette. The range feels very limited with the 24 x 11-36.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew325 View Post
    Thought I'd update. The LBS fixed the hub. The one bearing shifted slightly when the axle was tapped out. Just had to tap it back into place, and we're good to go. The shop owner said that it should be good now that it has the updated hardened pawls as well.

    In other news, I ordered a 28 tooth cinch DM ring for it, and I'm going to try the Sun Race 42 Tooth 10 spd cassette. The range feels very limited with the 24 x 11-36.
    I installed the Shimano 1x11 11-42 this last week and got a few rides on it. The 42 paired with the front 24 is really nice on tough climbs.

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktmben View Post
    I installed the Shimano 1x11 11-42 this last week and got a few rides on it. The 42 paired with the front 24 is really nice on tough climbs.
    Wow, I guess so. Must be able to climb walls on it now! Talk about high stress on the freehub though.

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew325 View Post
    Wow, I guess so. Must be able to climb walls on it now! Talk about high stress on the freehub though.
    I like the lower gears because I'm a spinner and my local riding consists of climbing 2000 ft and then descending 2000 ft. For that riding I need some mercy gearing especially considering my lack of fitness this time of year lol.

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew325 View Post
    Anyone with a '16, how has your experience been with the rear hub. Anyone have success with the update kit? I've had bad luck with mine. Can't seem to get one ride without something going wrong with the freehub. It's stripped pawls/ring twice, and now drags and winds the chain up. Only 6 or so rides on it. I weight 155 lbs.
    mine has had the same problem. Ripped through 2 now it binds when trying to free wheel. LBS has been good so far, but i'm curious to see what they do now.

  77. #477
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    My brother has had isues with his hub making banging noises for a while now, waiting on a proper fix.
    Does anyone know if the 16 model got a widened rear end or just moved the bridge a tad bit higher, also has the 120mm front fork changed the geo for the better?

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtflo View Post
    mine has had the same problem. Ripped through 2 now it binds when trying to free wheel. LBS has been good so far, but i'm curious to see what they do now.
    Did your shop just replace the pawls or did they replace the ratchet ring as well?
    The main issue is that the original ratchet ring has bigger chamfers on both sides. Basically what happens is that the contact area for the pawls is too small and they shear.
    The new, updated ratchet ring has a minimal chamfer, therefore, greater contact area and less-stress on the pawls.

    Any shop that is a Rocky Mountain dealer should be able to replace both components.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtflo View Post
    mine has had the same problem. Ripped through 2 now it binds when trying to free wheel. LBS has been good so far, but i'm curious to see what they do now.
    Mine was binding when freewheeling after the fix because one of the cartridge bearings shifted outward when the axle was tapped out. The shop owner fixed it in 2 minutes. Popped it apart and tapped the outer race of the bearing back into place.
    It has been good ever since.

  80. #480
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    Had a buddy bust his rear hub on a ride last week and a few others from the same shop with the issue. Let's hope RM steps up and actually helps the shop with the parts and labor reimbursement, so far the rep for my shop has been mum.

  81. #481
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    I just replaced my rear hub with a ST Swiss. I have little faith in RM. Last time I needed a free hub body from them, it took months

  82. #482
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    It's not necessarily Rocky Mountain's fault. Formula is supplying them with hubs and it may be them that are short on supply.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by wArden View Post
    It's not necessarily Rocky Mountain's fault. Formula is supplying them with hubs and it may be them that are short on supply.

    In this case it was. I had to send the same info and pictures over and over. And they still sent the wrong part. Just plain incompetence on their part

  84. #484
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    Mine is a sun-ringle hub. Hope it is an easy fix, trails are prime right now.

  85. #485
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    any further updates on the 2016 Blizzard 50?

    Apparently they improved the rear tire clearance....is anyone running bigger than the stock Bulldozer?
    Mike
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  86. #486
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    Supposedly just moved the bridge up a little higher but not any wider.

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    any further updates on the 2016 Blizzard 50?

    Apparently they improved the rear tire clearance....is anyone running bigger than the stock Bulldozer?
    I'm running Bud & Lou on my 2016 Blizzard. They fit fine with a little clearance (maybe 10mm?), but I wouldn't want to go any bigger...

  88. #488
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    Rocky Mountain Blizzard -30 *New* 2017

    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyJo1 View Post
    That's even uglier than the white.

  90. #490
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    I like it better than last year's blue and the upgrades to narrower Q, better rear hub, tires, brakes, and drivetrain make it even more attractive

  91. #491
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    Blizzard -50 (Alloy, Bluto, 26 x 4.8)


    SuziQ -90 (Carbon 27.5 x 3.8)


    SuziQ -70 (Carbon 27.5 x 3.8)


    SuziQ -50 (Alloy 27.5 x 3.8)


    SuziQ -30 (Alloy 27.5 x 3.8)
    BenTYYC

    2015 RMB Thunderbolt 790 MSL BC Edition
    2017 RMB Blizzard -50º


    "Love the ride"

  92. #492
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    Just picked up my new-to-me '16 Blizzard -50. My wife just declared herself a fat bike widow after seeing the glee in my eyes.

    Are there any rear racks that fit specifically on the Blizzard?

  93. #493
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    Nice to see the switch to the DT Swiss rear hubs.

  94. #494
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    I'm really having a hard time deciding between the 17' blizzard -50 and the Kona Wozo. I like the Kona's shorter stays, but want the clearance for 4.8 in the rear. Also liking the 67 HTA on the -50. Probably too new for anyone to have ridden both though, I can't find any reviews on the 17 Blizzards.

  95. #495
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    Hey, I just put a deposit on a new '16 Blizzard 30 for $(removed price-it was a bit of a mistake). So I seem to have gotten a good deal. Considering what I was probably going to pay for a used fattie with less desirable components (judging by some outlandish PB f/s ads), I feel there's value there despite not being able to go to 4.8 tires and the risk of hub failure I am not too powerful with the pedal stroke, so hopefully I won't experience the hub issue. A biggie for me is being able to swap in my 30.9 Command Post IR for the cost of a cable. I might be trying grip studs on the Bulldozer tires - any success stories besides the one account I found?
    Last edited by gpeden; 10-02-2016 at 05:58 PM.

  96. #496
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    Hey. First post - getting back into mountain biking after a 15 year hiatus and seeing the summer ending has got me itching to keep riding through the winter. Was originally eyeing the 2017 Blizzard -10 at my LBS but don't like some of the downgrades.

    Convinced myself to look at the Blizzard -30 and my LBS told me I could get a 2016 -50 or -30 for a significant discount. I'm tempted because I could potentially get the Bluto model for less than I was going to pay for a '17 rigid, but I'm concerned about the hub issues. What do you guys think? Go for last year's top-end or a brand new mid-pack?

  97. #497
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    Was going through the same thought processs. The closeout prices on the 16' models are wicked tempting. I imagine if you are buying it new, the warranty will cover any hub issues.

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erock503 View Post
    Was going through the same thought processs. The closeout prices on the 16' models are wicked tempting. I imagine if you are buying it new, the warranty will cover any hub issues.
    That's true, though don't want to be stranded on a trail somewhere with a dead freehub. I emailed the shop owner (he's a great guy) to see what he knows and if he had a lot of defective hubs come in. I think the '16 Sunringle were an improvement over the '15 Wheeltechs, but still with problems.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jet Black View Post
    That's true, though don't want to be stranded on a trail somewhere with a dead freehub. I emailed the shop owner (he's a great guy) to see what he knows and if he had a lot of defective hubs come in. I think the '16 Sunringle were an improvement over the '15 Wheeltechs, but still with problems.
    The hubs seem to start acting up before they die. Mine was only slipping under heavy load when I had it replaced.

  100. #500
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    When you hub dies, just throw on a DT Swiss if you want a strong inexpensive hub or an onyx racing products if you want strong, silent and instant engagement

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