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  1. #1
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    Other Brother Darryl issue

    I bought a 17 NX1 Beargrease a few weeks ago and it has OBDs on it with the new 60tpi tubeless ready Husker Du's. Set it up tubeless Tuesday night it was the easiest experience I've had with tubeless tires, seated easily with a floor pump so I figured I'd be good to go.
    Fast forward to the next few days and the tires are flat every day. I never see where any sealant is leaking, so last night I inflate to 20psi and hear both tires whistle. Air is leaking from the seam in the wheel itself. Not sure if it's a manufaturing defect or what. I added more sealant and kind of layed the wheel down so it would try and seal up.
    Anyone else had any sort of issue like this? If I can't get it to seal I was planning on taking back to the Salsa dealer and seeing if I can get replacement wheels. Any help is appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Wheel need to be shaked and rotated multiple times for sealant to distribute and work (and go into air leaking places).
    Leaving it for overnight makes sense after a ride or some good shaking, otherwise sealant is just sutting at the bottom of tire and do nothing.

    Sent from my SM-G900F

  3. #3
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    Curious, how did you set it up? Tape? Split tube?

  4. #4
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    Its a tubeless ready rim so I used orange seal rim tape. I shook and rotated when I set up and then reinflated twice a day and shook and rotated hoping to seal up whatever was leaking.
    My question was more in regards to the seam that holds the wheel together not being sealed and if this was normal?

  5. #5
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    I had the same issue. I thought they were listed as welded, but they are not, only pinned. Surly rep recommended an additional strip of tape side to side on the rim at the seam. Mine finally stopped leaking sealant. I guess I will add that tape when I change tires, but I did not expect a tubeless rim to leak this badly.
    Other Brother Darryl issue-20170125_215957.jpgOther Brother Darryl issue-20170125_215947.jpg

  6. #6
    .44
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    That's unfortunate. I wonder if silicone sealant or maybe even liquid latex smeared into the seam may work.

  7. #7
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    Thank you, that is exactly what mine is doing. I'm hoping they seal up by the time I get home from work, was planning a 30-40 mile single track session on Sunday. If not I may have to throw some more tape on the seam.

  8. #8
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Been setting up pinned, tubeless ready fatties for a few months now.

    Make sure the tape is actually covering all the drain holes at the edges of the rim. Sealant will flow through them, intpo the cavity at the rim edge, and out at the seam, hence seeming like a seam leak, many times.

    Beyond that, yes, it needs to be shaken/agitated till you start to get sealant coming out the seam. Wipe off the excess, and you might need to play with it one more time.

    Riding is the best way to get the sealant where it needs to be.

    Bomber, once initial set up is done.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  9. #9
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    ^^^^holes - while this pic shows gorilla tape (which you should never use) on a Mulefut - the idea is exactly the same. Look close, the tape covers the middle channel, but doesn't extend far enough to the rim wall to cover the holes, the holes feed straight to the rim seam and leak out there.
    Other Brother Darryl issue-gorilla-tape-mulefut.jpg
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  10. #10
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Side note, Orange Seal tape isn't wide enough for single pass install on MF's.

    Not saying you did that, but, it's a definite "bias to one side for the first pass, bias to the other side for the second, and mind the holes" process with that stuff.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  11. #11
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    Thanks, I did two passes on each wheel and thought I'd went plenty far up on each side. Apparently I didn't, not my first time setting a bike up tubeless, but I definately could have missed some holes.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    Made that mistake first couple of times on these rims, first time I did not even see 2 of the holes and second time when installing a tire, with a tight bead, pulled a part of the tape and exposed one of the holes.
    I definitely could have pulled some tape when I put the tires on too, those Husker Du's were tight as sh**

  13. #13
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Final thought.

    If you decide to retape, use some scotch bright or emory cloth and scuff up the surfaces getting taped, then hit them with rubbing alcohol. That tape needs to stick nicely, and between tube/tire release agent, oils, anodization, etc, scuffing and making it super clean will only help with adhesion....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  14. #14
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    Same problem here. I used sun ringle tape. Said f it and went split tube. It is bombproof now and aired up easy.

  15. #15
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    HA!! Everyone mocked me for split tubing everything.

    Just kidding. I did split tube my Other Brother Darryls and they sealed up super easy and they hold air perfectly, in case anyone is wondering about trying it.
    The guys at the bike shop broke my balls a little so I bought a roll of Whiskey Parts tape to try and tape them. I want to be able to switch between a 4.8 Knard and a Lou depending on the weather.
    I'll let everyone know how it goes when I tape them up. Probably do it this weekend.
    I like turtles

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeroc40 View Post
    I thought they were listed as welded, but they are not, only pinned.
    Think I read somewhere where Surly said that the OEM OBD rims that come on the bikes are pinned but the aftermarket OBD rim are welded. Can anyone confirm?
    That said those little holes on the outside are the culprits, luckily the Sun Ringle tape just barely gets them on my Mulefuts.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Think I read somewhere where Surly said that the OEM OBD rims that come on the bikes are pinned but the aftermarket OBD rim are welded. Can anyone confirm?
    That said those little holes on the outside are the culprits, luckily the Sun Ringle tape just barely gets them on my Mulefuts.
    I just looked at mine. Yes. They are welded.
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  18. #18
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    Thanks!
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  19. #19
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    Well I went home aired them up again and shook the crap out of them, after a sealant shower it sealed right up and held air perfectly over night. When it comes time to change tires I'll retape unless I have issues before hand. Thanks for the help

  20. #20
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    As I was reading this thread last night, I kept thinking I don't have a seam in my rims. Stupid part is, my bike is twelve feet from me. I didn't think to get up and check.
    I like turtles

  21. #21
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    I'm building the wheels for Growler Bikes. Every one of the rims is a Mulefut (+ and fat) each is a pinned seam, every one is set up tubeless, every one uses tape.

    They started out with OS tape, now using SR tape.

    I've seen the issue first hand, and have gotten past it more times than I can count.

    Done close to 100 in the last month or so.

    You'd have the same issue with welded, you just wouldn't necessarily see the sealant leaking as it'd have no egress, were the seam welded.

    Split tube will of course, work great, I can only see it making the job of breaking the bead, even bigger, YMMV.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    As I was reading this thread last night, I kept thinking I don't have a seam in my rims. Stupid part is, my bike is twelve feet from me. I didn't think to get up and check.
    for sake of crystal clarity:
    OEM OBDs =pinned
    aftermarket OBDs =welded

    troof.

  23. #23
    fat guy on a little bike
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    i went through the same thing earlier this year. i have 2 sets of wheels, and 3 of the 4 did this. MOBD oem build seams leak like crazy with stans sealant, right at the pinned joint. if you use orange seal, it is a non issue.


  24. #24
    Rippin da fAt
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    As I was reading this thread last night, I kept thinking I don't have a seam in my rims. Stupid part is, my bike is twelve feet from me. I didn't think to get up and check.
    Lazy phukker! I see how you are...
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Make sure the tape is actually covering all the drain holes at the edges of the rim. Sealant will flow through them, intpo the cavity at the rim edge, and out at the seam, hence seeming like a seam leak, many times.
    I have MOBD (pinned, OEM) and I just couldn't get one of them to hold air. Just kept leaking like crazy out of the seam. After reading this I thought, "Eureka, those holes have got to be my problem!".

    I pulled the tires off, cleaned out the sealant, and carefully checked the tape. I couldn't see any place where the holes were exposed. But still thinking the holes were likely the problem I pulled off the tape and cleaned everything up. Now.... where are those holes at?

    In the photo above with the gorilla tape I can clearly see the holes partially exposed. After going around my MOBDs with a good light, I can't see any. "Look closer" everyone says. Okay... nope. I'm still not seeing any drainage holes. How many are there and where are they relative to the seam or valve hole? I'm going to retape and try again, but I'd love to find these holes first.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Jekyl View Post
    if you use orange seal, it is a non issue.
    Unfortunately, mine still leaked with orange seal.

  26. #26
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    I have two sets of wheels set up tubeless and taped. One is taped with Orange seal tape with some narrow Tesa (Stan's) tape on each side rolling up the rim side to cover the holes. This works, but was a pain in the butt. The OS tape does not seem to stretch and conform nicely to the rim. For my second set I tried the Zip flashing tape. I am sold on that stuff. it is excessively wide so it has to be cut, but it stretches nicely and holds well. Here are a couple tips for installing it:

    1.) Place bike in bike stand (or upside down) Install wheel and use something to hold the brake lever in to keep the wheel from rotating. I used a small velcro strap. This provides a nice stable means to hold the rim that will not rotate when you stretch the tape. It allows you to pull harder on the tape than you can do otherwise.

    2.) Line up one edge of the tape near the top of the bead seat and adhere the first inch or so with your thumb. You are now ready to stretch the tape and apply to the rim. You can go 1/4 to 1/3 of the way around the rim before having to release the brake and rotating the wheel. Do that until you get all the way around. (that step works good with any tape)

    3.) For Zip tap you will now have to cut it. DO NOT cut it down in the well. Cut it up just PAST the edge of the rim by about an 1/8 ". That will give you enough material to roll up the inside of the rim and cover the weep holes.

    I typically do cut the rim strip so that I do have more area of contact with the tape and the rim. While I do clean the rim with some alcohol, I have had success without scuffing the finish.
    Last edited by BlueCheesehead; 08-07-2018 at 01:26 PM.

  27. #27
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    OK... I taped my welded Other Brother Darryls up last night with 80mm Whiskey Parts tape. The tape covered the entire inner width of the rim and crept up the sides a bit. I mounted up the 4.8 Knard with Truckerco Tire Cream. Added air, SNAP! POW! Sounded like an old episode of Batman.
    Sealed up and held air all night. I won't be split tubin' any more OBDs.

    It certainly looks like this tape would work on the pinned rims as well. I don't have any to try it on.
    I like turtles

  28. #28
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    I got the Surly kit that is specifically for the MOBD rims. The tape is from Whiskey Parts (I'm not sure if it's the standard 80mm variety). This is my first time setting anything up tubeless and I'm surprised that the tape seems wider than the rims. I know the curve of the rim will take up some of that slack, but it still seems like the tape will go in to the recessed area that the tire bead sits in. Is that meant to be the case? I assumed that this area was meant to be left as is to hold on tight to the bead.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by benmills View Post
    I got the Surly kit that is specifically for the MOBD rims. The tape is from Whiskey Parts (I'm not sure if it's the standard 80mm variety). This is my first time setting anything up tubeless and I'm surprised that the tape seems wider than the rims. I know the curve of the rim will take up some of that slack, but it still seems like the tape will go in to the recessed area that the tire bead sits in. Is that meant to be the case? I assumed that this area was meant to be left as is to hold on tight to the bead.
    It is that way by design. I think it is good that the tire bead will help to hold the tape in place along the edge of the rim. I've had no trouble with my setup for over a year!

  30. #30
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    Benmills, yes the tape should wrap up the side of the rim. The idea is to have the bead sit on the tape to create a complete seal. If you do not do that, you risk having a pinned seam (or weep holes) exposed and leak as per above.

  31. #31
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    Yep. I used the Whiskey tape and it did exactly that. I've changed my rear tire a few times on the same tape and it is still working fine.
    I like turtles

  32. #32
    Rippin da fAt
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    Quote Originally Posted by benmills View Post
    I got the Surly kit that is specifically for the MOBD rims. The tape is from Whiskey Parts (I'm not sure if it's the standard 80mm variety). This is my first time setting anything up tubeless and I'm surprised that the tape seems wider than the rims. I know the curve of the rim will take up some of that slack, but it still seems like the tape will go in to the recessed area that the tire bead sits in. Is that meant to be the case? I assumed that this area was meant to be left as is to hold on tight to the bead.
    The tape will serve well if it does make the beadseat on both sides. Partly for a better seal and partly for a tighter fit of the tire bead in the rim to keep burping to a minimum.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  33. #33
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    Here is a tip that will help everyone. Take jbweld or another good epoxy, and plug the weep holes with it. Sand the spots down smooth. Now you can use less tape=less weight, and when you change tires it won't mess with your tape job since now the tape doesn't have to go clear to the bead shelf. As long as the tape covers the spokes and rim cutouts, you are good to go. This worked great on my clown shoes!

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