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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by keyhavenpotterer View Post
    Cool new colours due in soon. 3000 tires due in the end of the month.

    where can we get the colored ones?!!!

  2. #52
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    Hi guys, and thank you for the interesting feedback.

    I still don't get though why something like this:



    is impacting a rim (painful) design like this:



    (which I think should be closer enough, if not equal, to the OnOne rims).

    I mean, the side-step is the main problem, not having a "flat bed" like tubeless-ready rims usually have.

    Question is the risk bead moves over this gap with low pressure is really high, so my guess is the material you put leave space for the tyre to move, and to come back in place if this occurs.

    I second that, but I am wondering if a tighter spot in the bead area won't solve the issue avoiding all this material in the center... or, even better, if just two stripes of material on the side of bead channels would directly stop the tyre from moving on low PSI in the first place...

    Any guess/test on this side?

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by helix_it View Post
    Hi guys, and thank you for the interesting feedback.

    I still don't get though why something like this:



    is impacting a rim (painful) design like this:



    (which I think should be closer enough, if not equal, to the OnOne rims).

    I mean, the side-step is the main problem, not having a "flat bed" like tubeless-ready rims usually have.

    Question is the risk bead moves over this gap with low pressure is really high, so my guess is the material you put leave space for the tyre to move, and to come back in place if this occurs.

    I second that, but I am wondering if a tighter spot in the bead area won't solve the issue avoiding all this material in the center... or, even better, if just two stripes of material on the side of bead channels would directly stop the tyre from moving on low PSI in the first place...

    Any guess/test on this side?
    Bumping this up... as I'm about to undertake the tubeless setup myself with a new set of floaters on the stock rims.

    Concerning the question above, I believe it is valid. Would simply having 2 strips of foam/material near the edges of the rim bead work just as well as foam the entire width of the rim?

  4. #54
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    Ok, so I found some time to try my approach. In my past tubeless experience on other bikes, the key is always to get a pretty snug fit between the tire and rim to begin with. Whether accomplished by rim strips, tubeless tape, gorilla tape, duct tape, unicorn mane, or leprechaun skin... a tight fit before attempting to air up always yielded the best success for me.

    As we know the fit of the Floaters on the on-one rims is crazy loose, like "how can this possibly work?" loose. So here we go.

    • [1] Start with rim (my previously created duct-tape rim strip is in place covering my drilled rim holes)
      [2] cover the small holes used for pinning the rim with elec. tape (the rim tape would probably have done this, I just felt like being sure these won't be an issue later. There were 8 of these on the rim.
      [3] Lay one wrap of this: Armacell 2 in. x 30 ft. R-1 Foam Insulation Tape-TAP18230 at The Home Depot
      [4] then one wrap of this (in 72mm width):**Scotch® Strapping Tape 8898 << This stuff is the same as Stan's tape or whatever.
      [5] run finger along bead edge to get a nice tight seal, with no wrinkles.
      [6] then one more wrap of the foam tape
      [7] then one more wrap of the 8898 tape
      [8] again seal the edges with finger
      [9] create hole for tubeless valve stem (used a heated utensil to melt a hole instead of poking, I figure rips in the tape would be bed, melting = more better)
      [10] place floater on rim and marvel at the nice snug fit (I actually had to use a tire lever briefly for this)
      [12] air up with compressor and jump for joy that the beads are seating!
      [12] remove valve core, and fill with 4oz. of tubeless juice goop.
      [13] Do the stans shake and let wheel sit for awhile on sides for sealing.


    So basically the 2 wraps of foam fill the rim's inner channel nicely, and also applies good pressure (once filled with air) to my rim strips so they fill/slightly bulge at the drilled rim holes. And 2 wraps of tubeless tape seems to be good for added pressure on the bead shelf.

    I used a set of floaters 2 seasons old already so expected some seepages and leaks but all in all surprisingly good. A few pinholes on the sidewalls but the goop is doing its thing. As of this AM, still some air in the tires and things are looking promising. Will give a real test this weekend

    Overall I might have gained 2oz over my tubes, but I was using the 180gm Schwalbe tubes and am tired of pinch flatting those things on trail rides. Most of any added weight is in the tubeless goop.

  5. #55
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    Re: On-One Fatty Wheelset and Floater Tire Tubeless Setup (How To)

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Ok, so I found some time to try my approach. In my past tubeless experience on other bikes, the key is always to get a pretty snug fit between the tire and rim to begin with. Whether accomplished by rim strips, tubeless tape, gorilla tape, duct tape, unicorn mane, or leprechaun skin... a tight fit before attempting to air up always yielded the best success for me.

    As we know the fit of the Floaters on the on-one rims is crazy loose, like "how can this possibly work?" loose. So here we go.

    • [1] Start with rim (my previously created duct-tape rim strip is in place covering my drilled rim holes)
      [2] cover the small holes used for pinning the rim with elec. tape (the rim tape would probably have done this, I just felt like being sure these won't be an issue later. There were 8 of these on the rim.
      [3] Lay one wrap of this: Armacell 2 in. x 30 ft. R-1 Foam Insulation Tape-TAP18230 at The Home Depot
      [4] then one wrap of this (in 72mm width):**Scotch® Strapping Tape 8898 << This stuff is the same as Stan's tape or whatever.
      [5] run finger along bead edge to get a nice tight seal, with no wrinkles.
      [6] then one more wrap of the foam tape
      [7] then one more wrap of the 8898 tape
      [8] again seal the edges with finger
      [9] create hole for tubeless valve stem (used a heated utensil to melt a hole instead of poking, I figure rips in the tape would be bed, melting = more better)
      [10] place floater on rim and marvel at the nice snug fit
      [12] air up with compressor and jump for joy that the beads are seating!
      [12] remove valve core, and fill with 4oz. of tubeless juice goop.
      [13] Do the stans shake and let rim sit for awhile on sides for sealing.


    So basically the 2 wraps of foam fill the rim's inner channel nicely, and also applies good pressure (once filled with air) to my rim strips so they fill/slightly bulge at the drilled rim holes. And 2 wraps of tubeless tape seems to be good for added pressure on the beat shelf.

    I used a set of floaters 2 seasons old already so expected some seepages and leaks but all in all surprisingly good. A few pinholes on the sidewalls but the goop is doing its thing. As of this AM, still some air in the tires and things are looking promising. Will give a real test this weekend

    Overall I might have gained 2oz over my tubes, but I was using the 180gm Schwalbe tubes and am tired of pinch flatting those things on trail rides. Most of any added weight is in the tubeless goop.
    I tried a similar approach. It didn't last because the foam compresses with tire pressure.
    Your exact method may be more sturdy though. Make sure to report back in a few weeks!

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