This is what I did to eliminate the tubes from my fatbike. I was able to save about 14 ounces (390 grams) per wheel. This procedure may or may not work with other rim and tire combinations.
Stuff that you need:
- On-One Fatty Wheelset
- On-One Floater Tires
- 1 inch (25 mm) wide Gorilla Tape (2 rolls)
- Styrofoam Sill Foam Gasket (available from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. for about $5)
- Valve stem with removable core (I cut Presta valves out of Q-Tubes)
- Stan's sealant
- Packaging tape
- 2 inch (50 mm) wide Gorilla Tape
- Floor pump or air compressor
- Sharp scissors
- Tape measure or ruler
- Pen or marker
- A small cat to assist (optional)
Preparation - The inside of the tires were greasy, my guess is that it they were covered with a mold release agent from manufacturing. I cleaned this off of the tires with laundry detergent and water. Also, each rim has a set of eight small holes in the bead seat. Four are near the valve hole, and four are near the seam in the rim. I plugged them with super glue and used fine sandpaper to smooth out these areas, I do not know if either of these steps is needed. I left the factory tape on the rim that covers the spoke nipples.
Foam - The foam serves to fill in the area between the bead seats and makes it easier to inflate the tire. It only adds about 18 grams per wheel. Cut 2 pieces of foam for each wheel. Mine were 2 3/8 inches (60 mm) wide and about 67 inches (170 cm) long. I found that it worked best if the foam was about an inch (25 mm) short of wrapping completely around the wheel. The foam his easily able to stretch to close this gap, and it is easier to tape up later if the foam isn't loose and moving around. I used a piece of clear plastic packaging tape to join the two ends of the foam. The outer layer of foam may need to be a little longer than the first wrap. The valve stem will easily punch a hole through the foam.
Gorilla Tape - This forms a seal between the tire beads. It is important to take your time and avoid any creases or wrinkles that may leak air. The Gorilla tape is pretty easy to work with, so that's not too difficult to do. It will take three wraps to cover the foam; one under each bead of the rim and one in the center. I started near the valve hole. The idea is to stick the tape to the aluminum bead shelf of the rim, then on to the foam to form a relatively flat surface. I used a plastic tire lever to make sure that the tape adhered well. I overlapped the ends by an inch or so.
After the three wraps were finished, I added a single piece of 2 inch (50 mm) square Gorilla Tape to the spot where the valve would go. I then heated a piece of metal on the kitchen stove and melted a hole in the Gorilla tape for the valve to fit through. Next, add the valve stem and tighten the knurled nut on against the rim. I used a valve (with a removable core) cut from a Q-Tube brand inner tube. I previously tried a Stan's valve stem for a tubeless wheel, but it pulled through the tape and leaked.
Next, mount the tire onto the rim. Line up the valve with the Floater logo (this is critical!). I was able to mount the tires by hand; I didn't need to use a tire lever at all. Once both beads are mounted, the tire should not be able to spin on the Gorilla tape. If it can't spin, that indicates that the foam and tape are in contact with the tire bead, and it should air up easily.
Pump up your tire. I had no problems using a floor pump. I pumped mine to 30 or 40 psi in order to make sure that the beads were seated all around the tire. If so, you should be able to see some reinforcing all the way around the tire bead like below.
Let the air out of the tire and remove the valve core. Add your Stan's sealant. I added about 3 fl oz, or approximately 100 grams worth.
Reinstall the valve core. Pump up the tire again. Make sure that the bead is seated again, then do the "Stan's shake and spin" to make sure that the sealant is spread around. If you have any leaks, put it at the bottom and slosh the sealant around until it seals. This was my worst leak below (worringly right at the rim seam!).
Let it sit for a while to be sure that everything is sealed. Reduce the pressure to what you plan to ride it at (I'll try about 8 psi, myself) and do the Stan's dance again to make sure that everything is sealed. Put the wheel on your bike and go ride!
Weight Data (Ready to ride including skewer and rotor, cassette on rear)
Front Wheel w/Tube 8 lb 7 oz 3.83 kg
Front Wheel Tubeless 7 lb 9 oz 3.44 kg
Front Weight Savings 14 oz 0.39 kg
Rear Wheel w/Tube 9 lb 11 oz 4.40 kg
Rear Wheel Tubeless 8 lb 13 oz 4.01 kg
Rear Weight Savings 14 oz 0.39 kg
Approximate weights by item
Valve Stem - 7-8 g
Foam (one layer) - 8-9 g
Gorilla Tape - 65-70 g per wheel
Stan's sealant - 3 fl oz = 100 g per wheel
Total per wheel - 180-187 grams
OEM Tubes - 593 g each
Cat - 5 lb 9 oz
Stuff that you need:
- On-One Fatty Wheelset
- On-One Floater Tires
- 1 inch (25 mm) wide Gorilla Tape (2 rolls)
- Styrofoam Sill Foam Gasket (available from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. for about $5)
- Valve stem with removable core (I cut Presta valves out of Q-Tubes)
- Stan's sealant
- Packaging tape
- 2 inch (50 mm) wide Gorilla Tape
- Floor pump or air compressor
- Sharp scissors
- Tape measure or ruler
- Pen or marker
- A small cat to assist (optional)
Preparation - The inside of the tires were greasy, my guess is that it they were covered with a mold release agent from manufacturing. I cleaned this off of the tires with laundry detergent and water. Also, each rim has a set of eight small holes in the bead seat. Four are near the valve hole, and four are near the seam in the rim. I plugged them with super glue and used fine sandpaper to smooth out these areas, I do not know if either of these steps is needed. I left the factory tape on the rim that covers the spoke nipples.
Foam - The foam serves to fill in the area between the bead seats and makes it easier to inflate the tire. It only adds about 18 grams per wheel. Cut 2 pieces of foam for each wheel. Mine were 2 3/8 inches (60 mm) wide and about 67 inches (170 cm) long. I found that it worked best if the foam was about an inch (25 mm) short of wrapping completely around the wheel. The foam his easily able to stretch to close this gap, and it is easier to tape up later if the foam isn't loose and moving around. I used a piece of clear plastic packaging tape to join the two ends of the foam. The outer layer of foam may need to be a little longer than the first wrap. The valve stem will easily punch a hole through the foam.
Gorilla Tape - This forms a seal between the tire beads. It is important to take your time and avoid any creases or wrinkles that may leak air. The Gorilla tape is pretty easy to work with, so that's not too difficult to do. It will take three wraps to cover the foam; one under each bead of the rim and one in the center. I started near the valve hole. The idea is to stick the tape to the aluminum bead shelf of the rim, then on to the foam to form a relatively flat surface. I used a plastic tire lever to make sure that the tape adhered well. I overlapped the ends by an inch or so.
After the three wraps were finished, I added a single piece of 2 inch (50 mm) square Gorilla Tape to the spot where the valve would go. I then heated a piece of metal on the kitchen stove and melted a hole in the Gorilla tape for the valve to fit through. Next, add the valve stem and tighten the knurled nut on against the rim. I used a valve (with a removable core) cut from a Q-Tube brand inner tube. I previously tried a Stan's valve stem for a tubeless wheel, but it pulled through the tape and leaked.
Next, mount the tire onto the rim. Line up the valve with the Floater logo (this is critical!). I was able to mount the tires by hand; I didn't need to use a tire lever at all. Once both beads are mounted, the tire should not be able to spin on the Gorilla tape. If it can't spin, that indicates that the foam and tape are in contact with the tire bead, and it should air up easily.
Pump up your tire. I had no problems using a floor pump. I pumped mine to 30 or 40 psi in order to make sure that the beads were seated all around the tire. If so, you should be able to see some reinforcing all the way around the tire bead like below.
Let the air out of the tire and remove the valve core. Add your Stan's sealant. I added about 3 fl oz, or approximately 100 grams worth.
Reinstall the valve core. Pump up the tire again. Make sure that the bead is seated again, then do the "Stan's shake and spin" to make sure that the sealant is spread around. If you have any leaks, put it at the bottom and slosh the sealant around until it seals. This was my worst leak below (worringly right at the rim seam!).
Let it sit for a while to be sure that everything is sealed. Reduce the pressure to what you plan to ride it at (I'll try about 8 psi, myself) and do the Stan's dance again to make sure that everything is sealed. Put the wheel on your bike and go ride!
Weight Data (Ready to ride including skewer and rotor, cassette on rear)
Front Wheel w/Tube 8 lb 7 oz 3.83 kg
Front Wheel Tubeless 7 lb 9 oz 3.44 kg
Front Weight Savings 14 oz 0.39 kg
Rear Wheel w/Tube 9 lb 11 oz 4.40 kg
Rear Wheel Tubeless 8 lb 13 oz 4.01 kg
Rear Weight Savings 14 oz 0.39 kg
Approximate weights by item
Valve Stem - 7-8 g
Foam (one layer) - 8-9 g
Gorilla Tape - 65-70 g per wheel
Stan's sealant - 3 fl oz = 100 g per wheel
Total per wheel - 180-187 grams
OEM Tubes - 593 g each
Cat - 5 lb 9 oz