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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    i don't mind the paint at all - its the gatelike profile of the frame, the awkward gap between the top and downtubes at the headtube, and the upward swing of the top tube at the seat tube that make me cringe (on the large frame - scrub's small is a looker!)

    this:

    Attachment 1105606

    vs. this:

    Attachment 1105607

    no contest, imo





    i've run the numbers, and where it counts the two aren't actually all that far off

    Attachment 1105608

    stock geo numbers with a rigid fork on the left, adjusted for a bluto at 100mm on the right. with the bluto, reach on the v2 is less than 10mm shorter than the trail, the bb is actually a hair lower, and while the sta is identical the hta is .5* slacker

    if i was home with access to my workshop i'd definitely switch back and forth to try things out - but i'm down to a toolbox and the kitchen floor; tinkering isn't really all that appealing under the circumstances



    i'm a vain, shallow person; it would keep me up at night, picturing that jabberwocky lurking in my shed
    I think your reach numbers are off. The fatty trail has a >30mm longer top tube and only a 1 degree difference in seat tube, there is no way they have the same reach. Also the seat tube on the fatty trail is curved making the effective seat tube angle even steeper.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny5jz View Post
    I think your reach numbers are off. The fatty trail has a >30mm longer top tube and only a 1 degree difference in seat tube, there is no way they have the same reach. Also the seat tube on the fatty trail is curved making the effective seat tube angle even steeper.
    maybe their reach numbers are off

    whatever, run your own numbers or take it up with brant

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    maybe their reach numbers are off

    whatever, run your own numbers or take it up with brant
    They have never listed the reach numbers for the fatty, just the fatty trail. If you look at the current geo chart, it doesn't list reach. Not trying to argue, but I have run these numbers many times myself, and the reach and top tube are what lead me to the trail. I also prefer the looks of the V2, but I needed the longer reach of the trail.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    maybe their reach numbers are off

    whatever, run your own numbers or take it up with brant
    Also, the trail has exactly a 33mm longer wheelbase. All I was getting at was, you may want to ride the trail before you completely discount it. No skin off my back. I did my reasearch and ended up building the trail.

  5. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny5jz View Post
    I think your reach numbers are off.
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny5jz View Post
    I have run these numbers many times myself
    so, what did you get?

  6. #206
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    I was getting somewhere around 415mm. I may be off on that, but that is right where my 45650b is at which is 410mm. That bike is extremely fun, but it feels a little on the small side for me. It has its advantages being a little shorter, but I didn't want that for my fat bike. I think it is enough of a difference that you may want to ride them both.

  7. #207
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    I also appreciate the look of the original fatty, but also take a look at the bar height. Are these 2 bikes set up for the same person to ride? It looks like the Fatty Trail would be more upright, but if you are used to or prefer the XC style of having the bars lower than the saddle, then go ahead and swap it all over.

    I agree with other posters, give a try first before tearing it down. I rode a Framed MN 2.2 for a few months last year into the spring before I decided that I wanted something different. If it's obvious to you then go ahead and swap, but give the Trail a trial period first at least.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny5jz View Post
    I was getting somewhere around 415mm.
    my son's 4th grade math teacher always makes him show his work

    Quote Originally Posted by johnny5jz View Post
    That bike is extremely fun, but it feels a little on the small side for me. It has its advantages being a little shorter, but I didn't want that for my fat bike.
    i lived and rode in the north shore/sea-to-sky region for many years, and used to review bikes for a mtb website. i know the advantages a long bike can provide

    i now live in a relatively flat area with lots of good, TIGHT technical xc. a longer bike would be either overkill or a liability for most of the riding around here (i know because i've ridden one), so a shorter bike should suit me just fine

    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    I also appreciate the look of the original fatty, but also take a look at the bar height. Are these 2 bikes set up for the same person to ride? It looks like the Fatty Trail would be more upright, but if you are used to or prefer the XC style of having the bars lower than the saddle, then go ahead and swap it all over.
    i've always run my bars pretty low on hardtails, definitely a few inches below my saddle and full extension. i'll be fine

    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    I agree with other posters, give a try first before tearing it down.
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny5jz View Post
    I think it is enough of a difference that you may want to ride them both.
    frame is sold

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomforeal View Post
    i've always run my bars pretty low on hardtails, definitely a few inches below my saddle and full extension. i'll be fine
    Allll-righty then. My bars are lower than the saddle on most of my bikes, including my fatty trail actually. It appears to me that having more weight over the front end makes me a bit more sloppy with the fatty, but that is just my opinion as it concerns me. Perhaps I need to chop the bars a little. Anyway, enjoy the ride!
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    It appears to me that having more weight over the front end makes me a bit more sloppy with the fatty, but that is just my opinion as it concerns me.
    good to know. the bluto i received with my fatty trail has a nice long steer tube. i'm going to leave it uncut for now, and play around with stem height - so i'll keep that in mind. the lower bb on the v2 should somewhat mitigate the reduced travel i'm planning to run on the bluto. if it ends up being too low, i could always get me one of these

    Name:  s-l225.jpg
Views: 1392
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    or these

    On-One Fatty trail-s780_92429410_1262030038.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    Anyway, enjoy the ride!
    that's the plan!

  11. #211
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    You may be joking, but I wouldn't get an adjustable stem, they're fragile and dangerous for anything more demanding than a beach cruiser in ~10mph on sidewalks only. They have a tendency to loosen or break.

    There are plenty of super-steep stems available that can do the job, or just a tall stem and somewhat tall riser.
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  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    I also appreciate the look of the original fatty, but also take a look at the bar height. Are these 2 bikes set up for the same person to ride? It looks like the Fatty Trail would be more upright, but if you are used to or prefer the XC style of having the bars lower than the saddle, then go ahead and swap it all over.
    The Trail is (assuming same fork height) a taller front end.

    Resorted to no topcap on the headset upper (no, not an issue. have run many like that - just gotta' keep an eye on things if you ride a lot in the wet) and a Syntace 44mm Flatforce stem. Dropped the bar where I wanted it, and doesn't look *too* terribly goofy. I don't want to shorten the fork from 120mm.

    I dig the aesthetic of the regular Fatty frame more, but prefer the ride of the Trail.

    Can't say it's any one defined thing making it so, but the whole package.

    Would love a tweaked custom frame, but nothing I can't live with as-as, especially since this is the bike that gets my least ride time.
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  13. #213
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    I would just like to say that the looks of the Fatty Trail are improved with the addition of a Framed bag. That is all. Carry on.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  14. #214
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    This is my first time joining the forum....Just want to share my experience with buying the On One Fatty Trail online. I bought the On one fatty trail SRAM X01 for $1892. price includes taxes and shipping, tires upgraded to maxxis mammoth and handle bar upgraded to carbon on one knuckleball . Bike is shipped thru DHL. I don't have to pay any duty tax. Ordered the bike Nov 2, 2016. I got the bike Nov 15, 2016.
    I only ridden it once the trail since I got it (went on vacation after I got the bike), first impression is " the bike is awesome" on both climbs and downhill. better than my 27.5 plus hard tail on the downhill. I will be riding most with this fat bike for now.
    Bike is on the heavy side, it is the wheels with tires that made it heavy. My guess is maybe 30lbs plus plus . I haven't got a chance to really weigh it in on a scale.

  15. #215
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    Rear tire clearance

    Confirmed last night that a Vee Bulldozer 4.7" on a Mülefüt 80SL rim fits in the back with room to spare. Can easily fit a finger between the tire and the chainstays.

    With people fitting 4.6-4.7" tires (GC, Dunderbeist, Bulldozer, etc.) I simply don't see the need to go for a 197 frame (for daily use). Stick with a narrow Q crank and narrower heel clearance and enjoy all of the great 4.6-4.7" tire options!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  16. #216
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    Did the tubeless set up 4.7 Bulldozer rear and 4.8 Bud front on Mulefut 80SL rims today. Was surprised at how easy it was. Had horror stories in my head. A little soapy water and an air compressor with the valve core removed.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  17. #217
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    How is the fatty trail in snow conditions? Since it has a more trail orientated geo.

  18. #218
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    How is the fatty trail in snow conditions? Since it has a more trail orientated geo.

  19. #219
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    And now the Fatty Trail is missing from the store as a frame :-(

  20. #220
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    Black Friday casualty?
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  21. #221
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    How is the fatty trail in snow conditions? Since it has a more trail orientated geo.

  22. #222
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    After 12 days of owning the fatbike I was able to ride it on the trail. I live in Las Vegas so no snow for me.
    I tried riding it on a wash and it was just floating on soft sand and just rolling on river rocks without any problem.
    I tried it on a single tracks and it was awesome. our trails here is mostly rocky and dusty. Yes it is slower compared to a 26er, 29er, 27.5/plus and 29er/plus. but once you get it rolling it just rolls and floats. on the downhill you can feel that it is planted on the trail. i haven't had any experience fish tailing my rear end. it is just so stable.
    The fatbike can also climb technical trails without a problem.
    Only downside i can think is you will be pedaling harder compared to a regular MTB.
    over all i love riding my fatbike here in the desert of las vegas.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    Black Friday casualty?
    Maybe.. I check the on-one and planetx sites so often I can't remember when was the last time I saw the Fatty frame... (Looking for a decent city bike and their cyclocross offerings with discbrakes and 1x11 carbon for 1000£ seems reasonable)

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by fat_rider View Post
    After 12 days of owning the fatbike I was able to ride it on the trail. I live in Las Vegas so no snow for me.
    I tried riding it on a wash and it was just floating on soft sand and just rolling on river rocks without any problem.
    I tried it on a single tracks and it was awesome. our trails here is mostly rocky and dusty. Yes it is slower compared to a 26er, 29er, 27.5/plus and 29er/plus. but once you get it rolling it just rolls and floats. on the downhill you can feel that it is planted on the trail. i haven't had any experience fish tailing my rear end. it is just so stable.
    The fatbike can also climb technical trails without a problem.
    Only downside i can think is you will be pedaling harder compared to a regular MTB.
    over all i love riding my fatbike here in the desert of las vegas.
    I actually find that the upgrade from a 26er with 3x10 to 1x11 on the fatty trail with increased grip has improved most times for me except for the inevitable fireroads to/from the trails where I get stuck in the rear of the group. Mostly the Fatty trail is so confidence inspiring that I push it harder on the more technical parts of the track.

    I have however spotted the solution with the On-One Rango 650B+ which will probably be my next full bike purchase.

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeAstrale View Post
    Maybe.. I check the on-one and planetx sites so often I can't remember when was the last time I saw the Fatty frame... (Looking for a decent city bike and their cyclocross offerings with discbrakes and 1x11 carbon for 1000£ seems reasonable)
    I ordered my fatbike Nov 2 and the fat frameset is still posted on their website. I received my fatbike Nov 15 and my friend also checked the website on the same date and the prices of fatbike went up. Even the frame was already removed on sale. So my guess is they removed the frame on sale when they increased their fatbikes. The frameset went as low as $99 US dollars if im not mistaken.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeAstrale View Post
    I actually find that the upgrade from a 26er with 3x10 to 1x11 on the fatty trail with increased grip has improved most times for me except for the inevitable fireroads to/from the trails where I get stuck in the rear of the group. Mostly the Fatty trail is so confidence inspiring that I push it harder on the more technical parts of the track.

    I have however spotted the solution with the On-One Rango 650B+ which will probably be my next full bike purchase.
    i am also thinking of buying the on one Rango. but still debating whether to get a full suspension 27.5 plus or a hard tail 27.5 plus. I actually own a hard tail 29er that I converted to 27.5 x 2.8. And I never turned back to going 29er again. if the price of the Rango will go down i will definitely get another hard tail

  27. #227
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    ...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On-One Fatty trail-img_2158.jpg  

    Last edited by boomforeal; 12-09-2016 at 08:19 AM.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by synnie View Post
    How is the fatty trail in snow conditions? Since it has a more trail orientated geo.
    Well, it took a while for the snow to get here in MN but I was able to get out this past weekend and make some new snow ruts. IMO the Fatty Trail rides well in the snow, this being about 5-6 inches of lighter fresh snow, not slushy. I rode last winter on a Framed MN 2.2 that has a shorter TT/ETT and wheelbase as well as longer chainstays, a steeper HT angle, shorter reach (obvious), and a shorter A-C alu fork. I had roughly the same length cockpit and am using the same tires (Framed MN 4.0), crankset, similar bars, etc. In other words, the difference is really the geo and not the components. I have not yet tried riding with a Bluto. I liked the slacker HT angle and how I was noticeably behind the front wheel rather than being over the front tire more. The longer reach made standing over the bike more comfortable as well. I noticed that it was easier to get going on the Fatty Trail in the fresh stuff, as it felt like the front wheel sunk until I could get my weight back over the rear wheel on the MN 2.2. The shorter chainstays and the slacker ST angle of the FT allow me to put my weight over the rear tire more quickly which improved grip. I noticed that when I put my foot down and tried to hop back to the saddle on the MN2.2 the rear would spin in place which would stall my forward progress. That said, I do notice a little more bounce on pavement with the FT when the tire pressure is low but if I'm on the trail I don't notice it as much and it will also lessen if I'm pedaling in a higher gear ratio. Turning in the snow was perhaps better with the MN 2.2, but I didn't feel like the front was washing out or slipping too much with the FT. The rear slipping out in a turn was perhaps about the same.

    I don't really intend to compare the 2 bikes, which are certainly different, but I felt it was important to declare my limited experience with fatties in the snow. I have much more experience with the ol' 2in 26er tires and in comparison both fatties are better in the snow.

    Hopefully you find some useful info in the post.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    Well, it took a while for the snow to get here in MN but I was able to get out this past weekend and make some new snow ruts. IMO the Fatty Trail rides well in the snow, this being about 5-6 inches of lighter fresh snow, not slushy. I rode last winter on a Framed MN 2.2 that has a shorter TT/ETT and wheelbase as well as longer chainstays, a steeper HT angle, shorter reach (obvious), and a shorter A-C alu fork. I had roughly the same length cockpit and am using the same tires (Framed MN 4.0), crankset, similar bars, etc. In other words, the difference is really the geo and not the components. I have not yet tried riding with a Bluto. I liked the slacker HT angle and how I was noticeably behind the front wheel rather than being over the front tire more. The longer reach made standing over the bike more comfortable as well. I noticed that it was easier to get going on the Fatty Trail in the fresh stuff, as it felt like the front wheel sunk until I could get my weight back over the rear wheel on the MN 2.2. The shorter chainstays and the slacker ST angle of the FT allow me to put my weight over the rear tire more quickly which improved grip. I noticed that when I put my foot down and tried to hop back to the saddle on the MN2.2 the rear would spin in place which would stall my forward progress. That said, I do notice a little more bounce on pavement with the FT when the tire pressure is low but if I'm on the trail I don't notice it as much and it will also lessen if I'm pedaling in a higher gear ratio. Turning in the snow was perhaps better with the MN 2.2, but I didn't feel like the front was washing out or slipping too much with the FT. The rear slipping out in a turn was perhaps about the same.

    I don't really intend to compare the 2 bikes, which are certainly different, but I felt it was important to declare my limited experience with fatties in the snow. I have much more experience with the ol' 2in 26er tires and in comparison both fatties are better in the snow.

    Hopefully you find some useful info in the post.

    Thank you for the detailed reply on abilities in the snow. I almost can't wait to ride snow now! It seems it will take a while before any reaches Denmark though

  30. #230
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    Well it took it's sweet time getting to MN, a good week plus into December. I was starting to wonder if we were going to have a white Christmas. Now the cold is here too, something like -5F plus windchill to bring the feel down to -15 or so. I realize there are people that scoff at such cold, me included to be honest, and that it is colder in other places. It feels like the weather didn't give us time to adjust though so I have to admit, I'm cold today. My right shifter doesn't like this weather apparently, may be time to consider some simple thumbies.

    Good luck with the snow in Denmark!
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  31. #231
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    For those running the Flowbeist, Dunderbeist combo, what rim size are you running, tubeless/tubed, and do you get any rubbing under hard pedaling? I am thinking about going that route next, but from measuring the frame, it will for sure clear but am worried about rubbing with frame flex under hard pedaling. When I went tubeless with my Vanhelgas on Surly rolling daryl rims, my tires widened by about 3mm.

  32. #232
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    Hi guys ... I'm new here & found the tread while searching for some info on the fatty trail frame.
    I've purchased the frame in March, with the idea of putting together an electric BBSHD-powered fatbike.
    I wasn't in a hurry, collected the remaining parts at a slow pace, and I'm now getting ready to assemble the bike.
    Below is a picture to give you an idea of the setup (waiting for the braking disks, so only put in the rear wheel for now ...)

    The wheels are the emental-rims/El Guapo Fat Hubs ones that go frequently on sale at Px. Since I will use this bike mainly on hard surfaces, I've opted for an alternative tire setup ... Kenda Heavy Duty Inner Tubes (26 x 2.4/2.75) & Maxxis Hookworms (26x2,50). This combination has been used by others, and in combination with the emental rims it works very well (and I like the supermotard-look) ...

    On-One Fatty trail-i-f4dzwh9-x2.jpg

    Once all components are in I'll post some more progress pictures if anyone's interested. If you need some info on how to fit the BBSHD etc., just ask ...

    I do have a question at this point ... To me it seems the rear-axle dropout alignment is off and I'm not sure if it's to be considered normal/acceptable or whether I should contact Px on this and ask for a replacement.

    If I seat the rear weel fully into the dropouts (i.e. stand the wheel on the floor & drop the frame into it), there's a slight but clear angle compared to the frame center-line ..

    On-One Fatty trail-i-9vbzjc8-x2.jpg
    On-One Fatty trail-i-lvtstf6-x2.jpg

    I can adjust the wheel correctly by dropping the right axle-QR somewhat, but it's fiddly (and I'm not sure it will hold its position considering the increased weight of the bike ...)

    I've seen a few posts on the fatty trail frame (mis)alligment before, any advice ?

    Thanks & early best wishes !

    P.

  33. #233
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    I would not be happy with that. Email them with relevant information, attach pics, and start a discussion. Be clear about what you want and what your expectations are. Perhaps go to your LBS to get another opinion and have them put a frame alignment tool on the rear dropouts. Unfortunately, it's aluminum and has some large aluminum dropouts so there is really no way to bend things back to straight. They should make the effort to make sure you are happy. Report back.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  34. #234
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    Thanks dbhammercycle, your feedback confirms my initial impression ... I will send Px a mail with info & see how they react.

    Best regards

    P.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankenbreather View Post
    Hi guys ... I'm new here & found the tread while searching for some info on the fatty trail frame.
    I've purchased the frame in March, with the idea of putting together an electric BBSHD-powered fatbike.
    I wasn't in a hurry, collected the remaining parts at a slow pace, and I'm now getting ready to assemble the bike.
    Below is a picture to give you an idea of the setup (waiting for the braking disks, so only put in the rear wheel for now ...)

    The wheels are the emental-rims/El Guapo Fat Hubs ones that go frequently on sale at Px. Since I will use this bike mainly on hard surfaces, I've opted for an alternative tire setup ... Kenda Heavy Duty Inner Tubes (26 x 2.4/2.75) & Maxxis Hookworms (26x2,50). This combination has been used by others, and in combination with the emental rims it works very well (and I like the supermotard-look) ...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Once all components are in I'll post some more progress pictures if anyone's interested. If you need some info on how to fit the BBSHD etc., just ask ...

    I do have a question at this point ... To me it seems the rear-axle dropout alignment is off and I'm not sure if it's to be considered normal/acceptable or whether I should contact Px on this and ask for a replacement.

    If I seat the rear weel fully into the dropouts (i.e. stand the wheel on the floor & drop the frame into it), there's a slight but clear angle compared to the frame center-line ..

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1112452
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1112453

    I can adjust the wheel correctly by dropping the right axle-QR somewhat, but it's fiddly (and I'm not sure it will hold its position considering the increased weight of the bike ...)

    I've seen a few posts on the fatty trail frame (mis)alligment before, any advice ?

    Thanks & early best wishes !

    P.
    Frankenbreather, check for excess paint in the dropouts. I had some in mine and the hub would not fully seat. If that is not the case, I would ask for another frame.

  36. #236
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    Thanks Johnny, I will make a thorough re-check tomorrow and provide some feedback. Best regards

    P.

  37. #237
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    Very interested in your build. I would like to build/buy and ebike for my dad eventually. So far prices are out of my budget unfortunately. This is very interesting, especially when the frame goes for under $100 periodically. Hopefully they'll sort out the frame alignment issue for you. Sub'd.
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  38. #238
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    Hi Johnny, many thanks for the tip, it was indeed some paint buildup in the dropout ... with the nuts in place I didn't notice it (should have taken them off & check before posting the question, sorry guys).

    On-One Fatty trail-i-wrzwlrr-x2.jpg

    A firm push & the axle snapped in place ... thanks again.

    Hi Kryten,

    I decided to start from scratch & not re-use parts from my current bike ... as such, I doubt it will end up cheaper than commercial bikes but that wasn't my goal anyway. The idea was to create something personal & have fun in the process.

    The big cost here is the motor & battery ... the cost of the frame, in case of the Fatty Trail, is not that important (percentage wise)..
    I did try to lookout for components which were on sale ... I wouldn't have bought those wheels for the full price for example ... that's the luxury of not having to rush a build, you can wait until you stumble on a good sale.
    At some point however, you have to bite the bullet, and for me that was the motor .. that bbshd is a big chunk out of the budget.

    Anyway, I'll keep you updated on the build, if you have questions at this point, just shoot.

    Cheers

    P.

  39. #239
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    That was a good suggestion Johnny. I had to do that with the 2nd frame they sent me to replace the 1st one with alignment issues. I'm glad to see that you, Frankenbreather, didn't have to go through what I went through. Don't forget to post some pics of the build when you're done.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  40. #240
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    Will do for sure, thx ! I'm expecting the brake disks in the next days, that should allow me to more or less complete the bike minus the battery .. I still need to decide on the latter .. I would have gone for a lunacycle one, but being in Europe it's a long wait (and expensive import tax etc.) ... I'll keep you updated.

    Best regards

    P.

  41. #241
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    Handle-bars & rear-wheel in place (couldn't resist) ...

    On-One Fatty trail-i-pw6s9ck-x2.jpg

    (it's in the attic currently, not the prettiest background, sorry )

    Still need to select a seatpost & decide whether to take a suspension-one or not. (tips & advice welcome)

    Cheers

    P.

  42. #242
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    If you were planning for off road riding then perhaps a dropper post would fit the aesthetic, but I don't get that vibe from the build you are showing us. I would go with a Cane Creek Thudbuster if you want some additional cushioning or the standard rigid seatpost. Race Face has a nice clamp design or you could go with Nukeproof if you like yellow. There are a lot of options for decent posts out there.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  43. #243
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    No, indeed, off-road isn't on the planning (yet) ... thanks dbhammercycle, I will check out the brands you mentioned !

    Cheers

    P.

  44. #244
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    A few more components added ...


    On-One Fatty trail-i-thgls7g-x2.jpg

    I have all the parts now to complete the bike minus the battery ... for the latter I need to make some choices on the form-factor first.

    Cheers

    P.

  45. #245
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    Here's my Fatty Trail-build

    I bought the bike pre-assembled and oh boy what a mess it was. I had to take the whole bike apart and build it again. It had aluminium shavings in bearings, parts missing from bottom bracket, rear hanger twisted, seat broken, paint chipping away. And yes, it was brand new.

    I took the whole bike apart and steel grit blasted the frame and threw on a matt black powder coating. Cleaned all the bearings (most shavings in headset) Upgraded the front brake to elixir CR with carbon handle, swapped the stem to 35mm specialized one, swapped handlebar to carbon, put in 4.6" 45nrth flowbeist & dunderbeist tyres with onza inner tubes, installed 34T raceface NW single chainring, changed the seat to Selle Italia.

    After this, bike felt perfect for a while. Now I've changed the handlebar and stem to longer / wider ones for winter. Next up is 11s conversion.

    On-One Fatty trail-img_2016_11_26_12_27_05-1-.jpgOn-One Fatty trail-img_2016_11_26_12_27_20.jpg

  46. #246
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    What are you guys running for stem/bar combo?
    I have been running 60mm straight stem with a 725mm with 25 mm rise, 9 degree backsweep and 5 degree upsweep.
    I just tried a 600mm flat bar and I am not impressed from a short ride around the city.
    My 1st bar: https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...=1000,2,89;cid[32]=1;page=2;orderby=2
    My 2nd bar (currently mounted): On-One Oversize Flat Bar Handlebar | On - One

    So what are your experiences with bars? I am a tall guy at 190cm with broad shoulders.

  47. #247
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    I am running the 45mm on one stem with raceface respond bars. They are 785mm wide with 1.5 inches of rise. That is on a large frame, and I am 6' 3" tall.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeAstrale View Post
    What are you guys running for stem/bar combo?
    I have been running 60mm straight stem with a 725mm with 25 mm rise, 9 degree backsweep and 5 degree upsweep.
    I just tried a 600mm flat bar and I am not impressed from a short ride around the city.
    My 1st bar: https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...=1000,2,89;cid[32]=1;page=2;orderby=2
    My 2nd bar (currently mounted): On-One Oversize Flat Bar Handlebar | On - One

    So what are your experiences with bars? I am a tall guy at 190cm with broad shoulders.
    So, I'm about 5'10", shorter than you, but with broad shoulders. I have a med frame, 60mm 0 rise stem (considering a 70mm), and 760mm bars 20mm rise 9 back 6 up.

    Since you have broad shoulders and this a fatty where bar leverage is a nice thing, what on earth were you thinking with 600mm hbar? When I go back to a 680 bar on my skinny SS it's really weird the first few rides. I have a Fatboy bar cut to 730 for my geared skinny 26" mtb too. Anyway, stay with those 6pack bars or go wider would be my recommendation, assuming you don't have any shoulder issues.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  49. #249
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    hi, anyone tried to run the Fatty Trail with 29+ wheels? What's the max tire size you managed to squeeze in?
    I know a regular Fatty takes 3.0, not more.

  50. #250
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    frankenbreatherBBSHD 100mm or 120mm?

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