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On One Fat Bike Frame

438K views 2K replies 291 participants last post by  qclabrat 
#1 ·

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#1,717 ·
It's a tight fit. The silver piping on the perimeter rubbed down to the metal on the downtube just above the BB. The bag sits right on the downtube, so I would put some protective tape down before installing. Keep soft stuff like spare tubes in the bottom, not hard/heavy stuff like tools or pumps or you can hear them hitting the frame as you bounce down the trail. Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel Bicycle frame Tire Wheel
 
#1,723 ·
Not in stock form. On-One forks use rear disk spacing, Framed uses front disk spacing. You can grind out the caliper mount to so it lines up with the rotor. Ive also seen folks offset the axle with different width nuts, then re-dish the wheel.
 
#1,733 ·
Not sure, I haven't tried. I will say that nothing has peeled/scratched off after 2 years. As for the wheels, any 29er rear wheel should work on the front if you don't want to build a new one. Might look a little funny, but then you'd only have to build one wheel... I build my own wheels, so I didn't factor that into the cost.
 
#1,734 ·
Hey guys, I'm building up a new V2 fatty frame. Swapping a bunch of stuff over from my old fat bike. I have 2 questions and I appreciate the help:

1) Need a new rear wheel. What size hub works on new frame? Might end up buying new wheelset.

2) Have a new Bluto 120mm. Decent headset that works with frame and fork? Looks like they stopped making Mixie Smooth tapered piece.

I think have everything else sorted, might need some new cranks too. Thinking Race Face, been happy with mine on other bikes. I just have to make sure to get the right spacing correct?

Thanks!
 
#1,737 ·
Hey guys, I'm building up a new V2 fatty frame. Swapping a bunch of stuff over from my old fat bike. I have 2 questions and I appreciate the help:

1) Need a new rear wheel. What size hub works on new frame? Might end up buying new wheelset.

2) Have a new Bluto 120mm. Decent headset that works with frame and fork? Looks like they stopped making Mixie Smooth tapered piece.

I think have everything else sorted, might need some new cranks too. Thinking Race Face, been happy with mine on other bikes. I just have to make sure to get the right spacing correct?

Thanks!
Responded to the wrong poster, see my reply to dbhammercycle
 
#1,736 ·
170 rear. I don't remember if the headtube is tapered, but you can get a bottom headset cup to fit the Bluto. I'd personally look at Cane Creek, probably the 40. You may also want to lower the travel to 100mm.

On-One Fatty V2 Frame | Planet X
170 QR rear wheel. For headsets, Chris King is worth the extra $$ as it will last forever. If you are keeping costs down, Cane Creek 40 is solid. I'm running Turbines with a 30T NW on the inside of the spider. It's close to the chainstay, but clearance is fine. No tire rub in low with Nates on Mulefut 80s.
 
#1,741 ·
Thanks guys.

I might got 1x on this too. I like it on my 29er. We'll see.

Why lower the fork to 100 from 120? I thought it was designed to handle 120? Did you find 100 just worked better?
I very well may be wrong, but I don't think the Fatty was designed for that much travel. The Fatty Trail was designed around the 120 Bluto. I'm not saying you can't, there are certainly lots of examples of non suspension corrected frames that have sus forks slapped on 'em and I've certainly seen a few pics of the Fatties with sus forks. I think the a-c of the Fatty fork is 470mm and the 120 Bluto is 531. I just think you should be aware of the change to the head tube angle, etc.
 
#1,743 ·
Thanks, yes, the rear spacing front hub is a bit of a PITA these days.

I'm in a bit of a dilemma as to what do do with my Fatty. I'm just shy of 5'10" or just a hair under and on my 16" frame I find myself slightly cramped. This is with 60mm stem and 12mm setback Twelfty seatpost. I feel like I would be happier on an 18", but unsure if I should get 18" frame, swap over everything and try to sell 16" V1 frame. Or just get rid of the Fatty and get a different bike. Rear spaced front hub, no through axles and 170mm rear end are feeling a little outdated to be spending a lot of cash on imo.

I would also like to get a 29er wheelset for commuting this spring/summer and would not mind the carbon fork for looks and weight savings. (This thing is over 35lbs now). On top of that I would like to try few bikepacking trips this summer and the bike can serve as a loaner for friends couple times a year, so could have a few other uses apart from main snow/winter duty. I do have a Giant Trance for summer already. For bikepacking, I would think (especially the 18") can fit a decent size frame bag unlike my Trance.

Trance - summer rig
Fatty - winter rig mainly, bikepacking?, commuter?, loaner for friends, occasional summer use for fun

Just to put in perspective, mine is full XT 2x10 build with e13 crank, BB7's, studded Dillingers 4s, and also Floaters.

I guess I could just get 18" V2 frame and try to sell 16" V1 if there even is market for one? I could live with skipping on the carbon fork to save some cash there. Still another $500 CAD for skinny wheelset with tires and $400+CAD for frame shipped minus whatever I get for the V1. Just have hard time seeing it as cost effective. My head is spinning from all this by now, and I'm probably not thinking clear about this anymore.

Do I just sell and get/build something else? Thanks for any advice.
 
#1,751 ·
Thanks, yes, the rear spacing front hub is a bit of a PITA these days.

I'm in a bit of a dilemma as to what do do with my Fatty. I'm just shy of 5'10" or just a hair under and on my 16" frame I find myself slightly cramped. This is with 60mm stem and 12mm setback Twelfty seatpost. I feel like I would be happier on an 18", but unsure if I should get 18" frame, swap over everything and try to sell 16" V1 frame. Or just get rid of the Fatty and get a different bike. Rear spaced front hub, no through axles and 170mm rear end are feeling a little outdated to be spending a lot of cash on imo.

I would also like to get a 29er wheelset for commuting this spring/summer and would not mind the carbon fork for looks and weight savings. (This thing is over 35lbs now). On top of that I would like to try few bikepacking trips this summer and the bike can serve as a loaner for friends couple times a year, so could have a few other uses apart from main snow/winter duty. I do have a Giant Trance for summer already. For bikepacking, I would think (especially the 18") can fit a decent size frame bag unlike my Trance.

Trance - summer rig
Fatty - winter rig mainly, bikepacking?, commuter?, loaner for friends, occasional summer use for fun

Just to put in perspective, mine is full XT 2x10 build with e13 crank, BB7's, studded Dillingers 4s, and also Floaters.

I guess I could just get 18" V2 frame and try to sell 16" V1 if there even is market for one? I could live with skipping on the carbon fork to save some cash there. Still another $500 CAD for skinny wheelset with tires and $400+CAD for frame shipped minus whatever I get for the V1. Just have hard time seeing it as cost effective. My head is spinning from all this by now, and I'm probably not thinking clear about this anymore.

Do I just sell and get/build something else? Thanks for any advice.
I'm just under 5'10 on an 18" with a 70mm stem and straight post and feel like it fits well. I think I would be cramped on a 16". The 18" would likely be a better fir for you
 
#1,744 ·
Tough call. At 5'10", I really like the way my 18" fits and rides. I don't need 5" tires, so I'm happy having the narrower q-factor of the 170 rear. Not much size difference in the front triangle between the 16 and 18. The two things that are making me look at a Soma Sandworm are a bigger front triangle for more waterbottle placement/bigger frame pack, and the sliding dropouts to run SS.
It does have rack mounts and the ability to run belt drive, though I don't see myself ever using them. The geo is very close to the Fatty, more trail oriented. Also has more room for the 29+ tires.
 
#1,745 ·
@Kryten

You could get the Fatback import hubset for cheap and gain 9mm and 10mm thru axles. Also, you could put on a longer stem, unless you feel you are already over the front wheel enough or if you feel the reach is still too short. 'Tis the season for upgrades for a good pricepoint or a discounted end of season new fatty.

That's not much help, but really the choice is yours. Perhaps the thing to do is go to your LBS and test ride other frames to get an idea of what you want for top tube length.
 
#1,746 ·
I will look into the Soma. I was looking at the orange '16 RSD Mayor frameset with carbon fork to build instead.

I would prefer not to go with longer than 60mm stem. One option I thought of was getting a Truvativ 25mm offset seatpost for under $50 for now, but I don't think I want to be on a wrong sized bike long term.

I did notice being a bit cramped after I cut my handlebar from 785 to 760 which is what I run on my trail bike as well.

The Fatback hubset I found for $125 is front disc spaced so it wont fit in either fatty fork afaik.
 
#1,753 ·
This thread needs more pictures..
Still trying to decide which tires to go too.

View attachment 1056994
Here's some new pics. Just rebuilt the 29+ front wheel with a thru-axle compatible hub to go with the new fork. Trusty Evo456 hanging around in the the background.

Tire Bicycle tire Wheel Bicycle frame Bicycle wheel
Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle part Automotive tire Synthetic rubber

Bicycle tire Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber Bicycle accessory
 
#1,763 ·
27.5 plus

But why are people choosing 29+ over 27.5+?
Isn't 29+ putting the BB a bit high?
The Fatty was designed around 26x4 tires. So according to the attached chart 27.5+ is the same diameter as 26x4 and should fit the Fatty better than 29+, right?
Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?
Blue Aqua White Line Font
 
#1,764 ·
But why are people choosing 29+ over 27.5+?
Isn't 29+ putting the BB a bit high?
The Fatty was designed around 26x4 tires. So according to the attached chart 27.5+ is the same diameter as 26x4 and should fit the Fatty better than 29+, right?
Anyone having experience with 27.5+ on the Fatty?
View attachment 1060385
Honestly, it's because I already had the wheels when I bought my Fatty frame. It does raise the BB a little, but I haven't had any ill effects. If anything, I notice more pedal strikes when I go back to the fat wheels. I do like the rollover/ approach angle of the larger diameter tires. Of course all bets are off now that I put a suspension fork on the front. Having to adjust to a taller/slacker front end with either wheelset.
 
#1,765 ·
MTB Tools Mtn Bike 12mm x 170mm thru Axle to Standard 5mm QR Wheel Adapter | eBay

Found this thru-axle on eBay for my Fatty wheel set. Just installed it and it fits perfectly. I've had my fatty for 2 months and I've already needed a warranty replacement freehub body. The drive side end cap worked loose allowing the freehub body to move enough for the ratchet ring inside the hub body to chew up the alloy freehub body. I'd had the same thing happen to my SunRingle hub that I have on my Inbred and they sent me this exact same type of thru-bolt. Haven't had any problems with my SunRingle wheels in the 2 years since. Very stoked that I found this.
 

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#1,767 ·
Ol Bromy, can you explain this a bit more.

Do you have the standard hub and you replaced its 10 mm axle with the 12 mm through axle from MTB tools? What I don't understand is how the 12 mm axle fits in the existing bearings that are made for a 10 mm axle. Did you also replace the end caps as I assume the originals are built for a 100 mm axle.

Thanks

Tim
 
#1,766 ·
#1,768 ·
Hey Tim,

I do have the stock V2 On One rear hub. My wheelset came with standard QR's and different, replaceable end caps, 12mm for the rear which I used in this case and 15mm for the front. The end caps that are used if I stick with the quick releases are 10mm at the end where they fit into the drop-outs. If those are removed, the opening in the hub axle is 12mm wide. This thru-axle that I found on eBay is 12mm X 170mm and just slides right thru the hub axle perfectly. As you can see in my pics above, it steps down to 10mm to fit the drop-outs just as the QR caps did. This thru axle that I found and the end caps that came with my wheels was all that was needed to do this. Well that and a little blue loctite on the drive side 12mm threaded cap to keep everything nice and tight. So far it has been great. Hope this helps.

Jason
 
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