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  1. #801
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    So it is quit easy and inexpensive to loose weight about 1200 g with drilling and lighter tubes.
    With these modification 16" Fatty will weight about 14.7 kg without pedals.

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127 View Post
    So it is quit easy and inexpensive to loose weight about 1200 g with drilling and lighter tubes.
    With these modification 16" Fatty will weight about 14.7 kg without pedals.
    I just change the two on-one 2,7" DH tubes, weight 1226 g, by two Schwalbe AV13F (Schrader) light 3" tubes, 390 g.
    836 g less, it is huge, so far my 18" Fatty weight 15,3 kg without pedals, without drilling the rims !
    Last edited by hbourj; 01-04-2013 at 04:27 PM.
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  3. #803
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    Quote Originally Posted by hbourj View Post
    I just change the two on-one 2,7" DH tubes, weight 1226 g, by two Schwalbe AV13F (Schrader) light 3" tubes, 390 g.
    836 g less, it is huge, so far my 18" Fatty weight 14,7 kg without pedals, without drilling the rims !
    That's the only mod I am going to do... I ordered some of The Schwalbe FR tubes last week... easiest, cheapest way to put the Fatty on a diet.

  4. #804
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    Are the valve holes enough big for Schrader (auto) ventil without drilling or using a file.
    Last edited by 127; 12-22-2012 at 01:42 PM.

  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127 View Post
    Are the valve holes enough big for Schrader (auto) ventil without drilling of using a file.
    No. I did drill it a little. You can order the SV23F (Presta). Oups, SV13F.
    Last edited by hbourj; 12-23-2012 at 01:44 AM.
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  6. #806
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    On One Fat Bike Frame-imageuploadedbytapatalk1356211049.252461.jpg

    One rim done.

  7. #807
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    nice work!
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  8. #808
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    I posted stuff about building and my initial impressions on the Singletrack magazine forum earlier today. I'll cut and paste them here for a wider audience.

    ST thread at On one fatty first impressions (anyone) « Singletrack Forum

    The smileys didn't transfer over with the cut and paste. You'll just have to deal with it!
    Last edited by JoeG; 12-22-2012 at 10:04 PM.

  9. #809
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    Mine Just arrived!!! 2 huge boxes.

    Fedex delevered it today, even thought they updated the expected delivery date to Dec 26 late last night. They done good!

    So I was a little premature with my "taking forever" post above. (note - not on the mtbr forum)

  10. #810
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    So, still unboxing and weighing stuff, but here's my thoughts:

    - The tires are HUGE! The tread is HUGE! Mine weigh 1444g and 1516g.
    - I like the skewers. Levers look neat and the machined aluminum nut with the captured spring is a really nice touch. F 58g, R 59g
    - Tubes weigh 593g each. If the orange decals weren't bad enough, the valve caps are orange as well!
    - Front wheel 1722g w/ rotor & rim tape, w/o skewer.
    - Rear wheel 2293g w/ rotor & rim tape & cassette, w/o skewer. 30 pt freehub engagement = 12 degrees.
    - Rims are pinned, not welded (not a worry to me). I'm concerned that the profile of the rim bead seat might make it tough to go tubeless, as the shelf isn't very wide.

    More to follow...

  11. #811
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    Update #1

    Well, I already had to make a trip to the LBS. The socket type Park BB tool I had won't fit the Howitzer BB as the spindle is in the way. LBS was nice enough to lend me a wrench type one. The crank and BB that come on the bike are massive. They could handle the fattest of the fat IMO!

    And by some miracle, the Race Face Evolve 24-36-bash crankset fits!!!

    But there is only one mm of clearance between the chainring and the chainstay! So I need a 34. But I don't see 34s on the Race Face website! So, asked LBS to look into and order one if possible. Comment on this thread if you'd like to.

    More weights:
    - Big Nose Saddle 290g. I wonder why they called it that. It looks kinda odd to me. The front part of it is much wider than my regular saddle. Saddle shell says Velo, the mfr I guess.
    - Twelfty seatpost 282 grams. 31.6x 350. Wondering who the little cartoon guy on the back of it is supposed to be. Customer? Designer?
    - Cassette 391 g SRAM 11-36
    - QR seat clamp 37g.
    - Howitzer BB 430 g.
    - Truvativ Holzfeller crank (170 mm, 32T) 687 g.

    Only issue so far is that there was not a chaingiude on the bike as per the specs. Its not a big deal to me as I am going 2x anyhow.

    I will post photos of the complete bike, but the garage is not lit well and is a complete mess. And I know the response that a messy garage would get on STW!

    Any bets on whether another LBS trip will be needed today or not?

  12. #812
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    Update #2

    IIRC, the website said that the bike was supposed to come with white bars. My bars are black, and I'm glad! However, the gold print on the bar looks out of place with the rest of the bike as there is no other gold anywhere. Oh, and these bars are 30 inches wide! My regular bike is 26.5 inches wide. There are some real narrow gaps between trees where I ride, so if I like the wide bars, I may have to go cut down some trees!

    As far as headset concerns expressed by someone, I took the fork off, and the headset bearings were nice and smooth. The cups were greased when put into the frame as there were gobs of red grease squeezed out around them. I couldn't figure out how to get the bearings out of the cups, though. I didn't try sharp tools or a hammer, though because I wanted to keep the seals intact. So I just added a little grease to the top and bottom of the cartridge bearing and reassembled things. On-one provided a 5, 15, 15, and 20 mm spacer on the steerer.

    More weights:
    - Stem 145 g, 31.8x60 mm. Looks nice. The steel steerer tube is exposed at the rear of the stem, so I need to figure out how to stop it from rusting.
    - Fork 1300 g with ginormous crown race attached
    - Ancho bar, 316 g, 30" wide
    - Grips 124 g w/ plugs. I will put Ergon grips on mine, but keep these around.
    - Front brake - 333 g with 34" brake line
    - Headset spacers (5,10, 15, 20 mm) 21 grams

    Now I'm getting hungry. I don't think that I've eaten anything all day, which is not normal. More to follow...

  13. #813
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    Update #3

    Question - is it humanly possible to remove a non-removable (black) SRAM 10 speed powerlink from a chain? I've used the 8 speed (removable) ones forever and love them. I spent a embarrassing amount of time trying to get this 10 speed one undone. Bare hands, needle nosed pliers, etc. And both LBS close at 6 on Saturday! So the second LBS trip of the day was not possible. Grrr! Then, finally I figured out the answer:



    Luckily, I already bought a 6 pack of KMC reusable 10 speed ones off of Amazon! Whew!

    Then I notice, there is no derailleur hanger on the frame! WTF! Panic; look through boxes, etc. Oh no, I won't be able to do anything till next week! Run around, curse, etc. And as above, LBS closed till tomorrow. Then, I notice that it is still attached to the rear derailleur that I had already removed from the bike as I'm going to put on a Shimano one. Disaster averted.

    The frame was masked where the derailleur hanger attaches to the bike, so its not painted there. There was a bit of paint that squeaked in under the rear edge of the mask, though and it was really thick. Enough to cause the hanger to be misaligned? I dunno, but it was easy to scrape off with a razor blade.

    And I found that I needed to run the front brake line in a different way than I've ever done before. It seems to route well when its right beneath where the head tube and down tube join. If I put it out in front of the head tube, it was much too long and twisted around all weird. I don't have a bleed kit for DOT brakes, so shortening the hose isn't possible for me right now.

    So, stay tuned for another exciting chapter of Joe Builds a bike.

  14. #814
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    Update #4

    What others have said about the tire beads being loose is true. You know how you can usually use a tire lever to sweep the tire bead onto the rim when they're not too tight? I was able to use my finger instead of a tire lever, that's how loose they were. It does make it easy to align the tire logo with the valve stem, though! And when I got the tire mounted and started pumping it up, I think that it took 5 psi or so before the tube contacted the tire tread. Before that, I could feel space between the tire and the inflating tube with my hand on the tread area. I do realize that the pump gauge isn't real accurate at this low of a pressure.

    BIG PROBLEM! The hub logo is not visible through the valve hole, FFS!* Isn't the wheelbuilder aware of this rule? Do you know how expensive it will be for me to have the wheel rebuilt to align said logo and hole?

    Both tires have a noticable "hop" (to use the wheel truing term) to them when mounted on the bike and and spun. The bead is seated fine as far as I can tell. I ran them up to 20 psi, the max on the sidewall, and will leave them overnight. Maybe they're still a little stiff from being folded up for who knows how long since they were made.

    I also noticed that the seam on the rims is at a bit of an angle; it is not parallel to the hub axle. I never noticed this on other wheels, but I never really looked, either. My guess is that at least some other wheels are like this too, but that the width of the rims makes it more noticeable. It is not a concern to me at all, just pointing it out.

    There are no logos or stickers on the rim. IMO, it needs at least a little something to dress it up. And the rim needs a name, like the Surly and Vicious ones, too. On-One names everything else that they make, why not the rims?

    Oh, and the plastic trim pieces underneath the saddle aren't held on with regular phillips or slotted screws; they use a hex key. No real value, but it does look really nice.

    I also discovered that it is absolutely impossible to mount a disc wheel when the brake caliper still has the little plastic travel block between the brake pads. Front wheel or rear wheel, it doesn't matter. Its amazing how easy they go in after it is removed, though. Why on earth did Avid make them out of black plastic? They should be a bright color so that you notice them. Its kinda hard to notice a black plastic block in a black brake caliper. Magura uses yellow, which you can actually see.

    The brakes drag ever so slightly as well. I loosened the tri-align bolts, squeezed the levers, and tightened the bolts again while holding the levers. I did this 2 or 3 times and its still the same. There is not enough drag to slow the wheel (they spin forever) but I can just hear a little rub. Hopefully this will go away once the pads bed in.

    I got one of those Problem Solvers direct mount adapters to mount my front derailleur on. It attached to the seat tube in the area where it is bent. The seat tube is not perfectly round at this spot; I've tightened the clamp but can still see daylight between the front of the clamp and the seat tube. I bet that at least a gram of dirt will accumulate there adding unnecessary weight to the bike!

    I'm tired and going brain dead. i can't make sense of how to attach the cable to the front derailleur. So, tomorrow will be cable time. Front derailleur, rear derailleur, KS Lev dropper seatpost.

    To be continued.

    * I may or may not not give a sh1t about this at all...

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post
    - I like the skewers. Levers look neat and the machined aluminum nut with the captured spring is a really nice touch. F 58g, R 59g
    I think On-One missed a trick with these, they just needed a little bit more of a hook, on them and they'd have doubled up as bottle openers. Would have been perfect for an expedition bike!

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post
    ...Question - is it humanly possible to remove a non-removable (black) SRAM 10 speed powerlink from a chain? I've used the 8 speed (removable) ones forever and love them. I spent a embarrassing amount of time trying to get this 10 speed one undone. Bare hands, needle nosed pliers, etc...
    It just takes seconds. Squeeze the link on the diagonal and it separates neatly. A small pair of multigrips makes it easier.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  17. #817
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    Ugh, my Fatty is still at FedEx somewhere. I had it shipped to my workplace, since I had figured it would come on a weekday(it was supposed to get here Thursday). Then, when it didn't show up Thursday, or Friday, I had it rerouted to be held at the local FedEx store since it was going to be delivered on Saturday, and I didn't want to hang out at the Shop all day waiting for it. Then, I kept checking the status. It said it went out on the truck for delivery at 8:11AM, but it never made it to the FedEx store. I went there to check right before they close at 6:00pm, but, not there. Now it says Not Delivered, Local Delivery Exception.
    To make things worse, there is another package with some headset parts they forgot to put in the box, since they didn't assemble theheadset because I asked thet the steerer tube be uncut. This was sent via USPS, also to arrive on Saturday, but the mail carrier holds all the mail when we are closed, so, even though it shows to be delivered on USPS tracking, it is not there, and probably won't be till Wedensday.

  18. #818
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    It just takes seconds. Squeeze the link on the diagonal and it separates neatly.
    Yes, normal ones. I use th e8 speed ones all the time. That 10 speed one was welded shut or something!

  19. #819
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    I've seen Sram use a different joiner recently. It requires you to bend the chain sideways and then pop off the cover link. The other side has both pins, whereas previous Sram joiners were a symmetrical design. Sorry but I don't have any pics.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post
    Yes, normal ones. I use th e8 speed ones all the time. That 10 speed one was welded shut or something!
    Yes, this 10 speed black quick link is not removable to be more reliable. Somebody has filed down a flat pliers to depart and close this link. Indeed this link is for mount, not for dismount the chain.
    KMC or Connex are better.
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  21. #821
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    Quote Originally Posted by hbourj View Post
    Yes, this 10 speed black quick link is not removable to be more reliable. Somebody has filed down a flat pliers to depart and close this link. Indeed this link is for mount, not for dismount the chain.
    KMC or Connex are better.
    can someone get a close-up pic of the link?
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  22. #822
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    Google can :
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  23. #823
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    The 10-speed PowerLocks are not designed to be removed in the way that the 8- and 9-speed PowerLinks are. Having said that, they can be removed with a suitable tool and Park actually do such a thing.

  24. #824
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    If you use a small multigrip tool this is an easy job.

    One jaw on the left nearside of the link shown above, and the other on the right far side, quick squeeze, and it's done.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  25. #825
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    JoeG - FFS stop stressing, get out and ride your bike instead of update #5, 6 or 7

  26. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356211049.252461.jpg 
Views:	1783 
Size:	130.7 KB 
ID:	747167

    One rim done.
    what is the orange rim strip? Is it something grime resistant, or is it ribbon?
    Anyone know of what to use that will resist soiling while being available in multiple colors, and is fairly light?

    I was thinking colored vinyl or cloth backed vinyl tape stuck sticky side to sticky side to a wider tape, so that the overlap can stick to the rim.
    Is this what others are doing?
    does it work well?

  27. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    Anyone know of what to use that will resist soiling while being available in multiple colors, and is fairly light?

    I was thinking colored vinyl or cloth backed vinyl tape stuck sticky side to sticky side to a wider tape, so that the overlap can stick to the rim.
    When searching for material i went to a local fabric outlet with literally thousands of colors, material types, remnants of all sorts of shapes n sizes. I wanted white and found what was a vinyl table cloth 5x6' so i cut 2" strips for marge lites that worked perfectly.

  28. #828
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    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    what is the orange rim strip? Is it something grime resistant, or is it ribbon?
    Anyone know of what to use that will resist soiling while being available in multiple colors, and is fairly light?
    In my case duct tape. 23 grams for one loop on the rim. Mud washes off fine. Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356376434.605433.jpg
Views: 2135
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    Plenty of threads on this forum where people have many nice solutions.

  29. #829
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    Want.

    It's a good thing for my pocketbook that they are out of stock at the moment.

    Yeah, I think one of these is going to be coming soon.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  30. #830
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    Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops.

    Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem.


    Thanks.

  31. #831
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    I have big hops in my two tire+tube+wheel, but I think it is from the very narrow tubes I use (Schwalbe SV13F, 190 g each, the on-One weight 610 g !).
    Downhill I feel these hops a lot !
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  32. #832
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    Based on a tip from a buddy I aired it up to 35 psi. Seemed to seat everything better. I'll let it sit for a bit and the. Test ride.

  33. #833
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    Just changed my tubes to the Schwalbe FR and had a b!tch of a time getting the tires seated properly without hops... what worked in the end was applying some soapy water to the beads and then inflating to a high psi... voila, no more hops.

    BTW, I dropped 2 lbs of weight in the process.... cheapest diet for this fatty...

  34. #834
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    The tire hops because the bead isn't centered around the rim. You have to be very vigilant in getting the tire to inflate evenly around the rim. The tire is seated off-center. This is operator error. Easy/kinda to fix. Deflate the tire, rub something slippery around the bead(Dawn dishsoap diluted a bit works), and keep the tire/rim off the ground while inflating. If still having trouble, you may need an extra pair of hands keeping the tire equal spaced on the rim while you inflate it. The problem is the tire bead falls into the large center section of the rim, and then pops up unequally onto the bead seat. Work with it, and all will be well.

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops.

    Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem.
    hops are the main contributor but rest assured they are also out of balance more than folks would suspect. These fat tires no matter the make / model can have severe weight bias in a section.

  36. #836
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Based on a tip from a buddy I aired it up to 35 psi. Seemed to seat everything better. I'll let it sit for a bit and the. Test ride.
    I just aired the two up to 35 PSI and the hops is disapeared. Thank you. Easy and efficient tip.
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  37. #837
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    hops are the main contributor but rest assured they are also out of balance more than folks would suspect. These fat tires no matter the make / model can have severe weight bias in a section.
    Did a ride this morning at some relatively fast fat bike speeds (30 km/h) and absolutely no wobble or hops felt in my tires...

  38. #838
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    Quote Originally Posted by gretch View Post
    Did a ride this morning at some relatively fast fat bike speeds (30 km/h) and absolutely no wobble or hops felt in my tires...
    do you feel warm n fuzzy inside??

  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    do you feel warm n fuzzy inside??
    Absolutely...

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by gretch View Post
    Absolutely...
    me too when i static balanced mine

  41. #841
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    Yesterday was a great day to continue breaking her in...





  42. #842
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    After couple of rides in snow conditions I have noticed, that 2*10 gears could perhaps help my skinny legs in some situations. I if go to 2*10 gears, I would like to do it inexpensive way. There are now discounted crank options like Hussefelt 2.2 or Truvativ Blaze, which I could take away largets (42 t) ring and replace it with light alumium rock guard. These will go to bike's original bb.

    So I need a front mech and a trigger. Would Shimano's 9 speed e-type mech work or is the only way to go with problem solver adapter and direct mount mech ?

  43. #843
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    Ed Oxley put a high clamp mech Shimano SLX without the expensive problem solvers adaptor. Photos are on UK fat bike forum.
    Last edited by hbourj; 12-30-2012 at 05:10 PM.
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  44. #844
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    here is my Fatty. only mod so far is white mary bars.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-imag0152-1-.jpg  

    On One Fat Bike Frame-imag0154.jpg  


  45. #845
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    lucky man
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

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    Is it possible for shops to get these? Who's distributing?

  47. #847
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fwilpum View Post
    Is it possible for shops to get these? Who's distributing?
    On-One sells consumer direct.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  48. #848
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Does anyone have any severe hops in their tires? I noticed I have it mine. Each one has it and it does not seem to be related to the tube. Ive moved the tires on the rim. Rims are true and have no hops.

    Cant really feel it at low speed. But high speed it is a problem.


    Thanks.
    For me severe hops mean my tires are not seated correctly all the way around. This can be hard to get right on rims without good bead seats such as Fat Shebas or V!Zs. I had trouble on Darryls too but it was because of tape residue on the ramp up to the bead seat. Once I cleaned that all off and broke out the compressor they popped right on and no more hop! Well almost none, you can no longer feel it at speed.
    Latitude 61

  49. #849
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    We were thinking of getting 8-10 of the fattys for rentals....but we want internal hubs...any problems with the hydraulic brakes getting sluggish in the cold? and no racks? Is there a specific reason in design for not having rack mounts?

  50. #850
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    Quote Originally Posted by TikiInn View Post
    We were thinking of getting 8-10 of the fattys for rentals....but we want internal hubs...any problems with the hydraulic brakes getting sluggish in the cold? and no racks? Is there a specific reason in design for not having rack mounts?
    Only internal hub that fits a 170mm OLD frame is the 3 speed Sturmey-Archer.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  51. #851
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    On-One Fatty

    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    Only internal hub that fits a 170mm OLD frame is the 3 speed Sturmey-Archer.
    I would think that 3 is just not enough, unless your on the beach..

  52. #852
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    I've been keeping an eye on this thread for some time. Can I make an order for a complete yet? I know the Titus website says 'expected soon'.

  53. #853
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    Quote Originally Posted by TikiInn View Post
    We were thinking of getting 8-10 of the fattys for rentals....but we want internal hubs...any problems with the hydraulic brakes getting sluggish in the cold? and no racks? Is there a specific reason in design for not having rack mounts?
    There are no rack mounts because this is designed primarily as a "trail" bike - not for off-road adventuring. You will also find that lots of folk are now using frame bags and large saddle bags. If you still need a frame then it's likely you'd be able to fit one using P-Clips and a seatpost-clamp made to take rack mounts (various are available).

    As regards the Internal Hub, with a 170mm rear end then, as above, only the 3-speed SA is available.

    Why not consider the Pugsley or 9:zero:7 instead? Both will take an Alfine or Rohloff and a rack.

  54. #854
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    Quote Originally Posted by druidh View Post
    There are no rack mounts because this is designed primarily as a "trail" bike - not for off-road adventuring. You will also find that lots of folk are now using frame bags and large saddle bags. If you still need a frame then it's likely you'd be able to fit one using P-Clips and a seatpost-clamp made to take rack mounts (various are available).

    As regards the Internal Hub, with a 170mm rear end then, as above, only the 3-speed SA is available.

    Why not consider the Pugsley or 9:zero:7 instead? Both will take an Alfine or Rohloff and a rack.
    I was hoping for EU manufacturer. Import duties to an already expensive bike x10..$$$$$$ plus follow up...parts...2 week transport.... was hoping for a long term relationship. the same as some bike shops do in the states. Rent...sell..buy again...upgrades. its a great way to start a micro business. establish a loyal customer base..

    I should start a new thread.. seems like the On-One option is over..

    Can do our own with a xacd frame non Ti

  55. #855
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    Quote Originally Posted by TikiInn View Post
    I was hoping for EU manufacturer. Import duties to an already expensive bike x10..$$$$$$ plus follow up...parts...2 week transport.... was hoping for a long term relationship. the same as some bike shops do in the states. Rent...sell..buy again...upgrades. its a great way to start a micro business. establish a loyal customer base..

    I should start a new thread.. seems like the On-One option is over..

    Can do our own with a xacd frame non Ti
    Why do you want to use and internal hub? Classic gear are much simpler to find in aftermarket and much simpler to repair (I've an Alfine too and I love it).
    However, an internal hub in EU is very expensive, rolhoff is about 1k and alfine about 400, not very cheap to start a business.

  56. #856
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    Quote Originally Posted by bricke View Post
    Why do you want to use and internal hub? Classic gear are much simpler to find in aftermarket and much simpler to repair (I've an Alfine too and I love it).
    However, an internal hub in EU is very expensive, rolhoff is about 1k and alfine about 400, not very cheap to start a business.
    A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new

  57. #857
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    Quote Originally Posted by groovyrider View Post
    A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new
    I know (I've an alfine) but if you break a rolhoff/alfine it's a problem to repair it, and you don't know how a rental bike is used or by who.

    For me the simpler & cheaper way to start a rental service is with this on-one bike. All the other options are a lot more expensive and if you want an internal gearing hub the cost is even more here in EU.

  58. #858
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    Not sure if asked already but will framesets be for sale and if so when? Thx.

  59. #859
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    Quote Originally Posted by groovyrider View Post
    A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new
    You can get a 8spd for under 300. But it's maintainance. I've done a lot of reading, and the question comes to mind. "Why would you not have a internal hub on a fat bike" you can go on the trails in god awful conditions. Better floatation...fat tires...roll over everything. Ok. That means more crap in the gears. If you ride in perfect conditions on sunny days, then why get a fat bike? Looks....a few more winks from the Starbucks girls?

    And oh. Just thinking about the price of a Rohloff makes my stomach twist

  60. #860
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    My bike is just arrived and I've tried to put the Salsa Mukluk frame bag (from Revelate Design).

    It's just fit, some straps isn't in the perfect position but with some hack it could be perfect.

    http://db.tt/F8gdZLRD

    The framesize is medium and the bag size is medium
    Last edited by bricke; 01-02-2013 at 12:33 PM.

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by bricke View Post
    My bike is just arrived and I've tried to put the Salsa Mukluk frame bag (from Revelate Design).

    It's just fit, some straps isn't in the perfect position but with some hack it could be perfect.



    The framesize is medium and the bag size is medium
    Nice

  62. #862
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    Quote Originally Posted by groovyrider View Post
    A higher investment but way less maintainance.......simpler to repair?? ........ never felt the need to "repair" my Rohloff in 6 years, still running like new
    Edit; Sorry, I meant to reply to:

    Quote Originally Posted by TikiInn View Post
    You can get a 8spd for under 300. But it's maintainance. I've done a lot of reading, and the question comes to mind. "Why would you not have a internal hub on a fat bike" you can go on the trails in god awful conditions. Better floatation...fat tires...roll over everything. Ok. That means more crap in the gears. If you ride in perfect conditions on sunny days, then why get a fat bike? Looks....a few more winks from the Starbucks girls?

    And oh. Just thinking about the price of a Rohloff makes my stomach twist

    You might want to check with someone who already does rentals. The ones I've seen around here are out of date and up for sale long before the conventional drivetrain is worn out. I guess it depends on who you're renting them to, and where they use them, but most renters are not avid riders, so don't put very many miles on stuff. I would think the fat bike rentals see even fewer miles than others, and if not, tires are going to break you.

  63. #863
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    I received mine yesterday from the UK (I'm in Australia). It took about 3 weeks to ships. Luckily I paid no Australian taxes, which surprised me, and as the customs documents had the cost listed as 1350 Euros instead of the US$1350 I'd paid I'm quite relieved.

    I had thought that as a UK company the brakes would be right front, but they were instead US style with the front on the left. The rear was easy enough to change, but the front only just fit once I re-routed the cable a bit and bypassed the top cable mount.

    The packaging was pretty poor and there were a few nicks in the paint work. The chain keepers needs to be adjusted slightly to not rub in the smallest gear. Like the bike I'm fat and slow so I plan to put a small ring and derailleur on the front.

    I've only had time to for a quick ride to see that everything works, but I'm looking forward getting it onto the trails.

    Tim

  64. #864
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    On One Fat Bike Frame-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357242641.516608.jpg
    Got in plenty of desert riding on new years day. Some light snow, sandy washes, and super chunk rock. Only one pinch flat on the ride. I kept dropping pressures in the rough stuff and went too low up front.

    Keep posting up pics of your rides please!

  65. #865
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Got in plenty of desert riding on new years day. Some light snow, sandy washes, and super chunk rock. Only one pinch flat on the ride. I kept dropping pressures in the rough stuff and went too low up front.

    Keep posting up pics of your rides please!
    Do they now come with drilled rims, their HP say, non-drilled. I like the orange rimstrip looking through.

    Nice bike, I can not wait until February for mine.
    ad vineas

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    Here's mine... changed the saddle, stem, grips and tubes, .. 34 lbs with pedals (size L)...


  67. #867
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    Quote Originally Posted by singularidad View Post
    Do they now come with drilled rims, their HP say, non-drilled. I like the orange rimstrip looking through.

    Nice bike, I can not wait until February for mine.
    ljracer drilled his own I think.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevob View Post
    ljracer drilled his own I think.
    Yup . Pretty easy job. Just watch the video Shaggy John posted.

    On One Fat Bike Frame-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357260421.840139.jpg
    On One Fat Bike Frame-imageuploadedbytapatalk1357260443.155857.jpg

  69. #869
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    Same size holes as Shaggy's?
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by JordyB View Post
    Not sure if asked already but will framesets be for sale and if so when? Thx.
    Anyone? Thanks!

  71. #871
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevob View Post
    Same size holes as Shaggy's?
    Yup. 1.25 inches. Any bigger seems risky. I'll let others experiment.

  72. #872
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    Quote Originally Posted by JordyB View Post
    Anyone? Thanks!
    Brant from OnOne had posted before that they would be at some point. However now they are available for $999 pounds and come with a bunch of parts.

  73. #873
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    Am I the only one who didn't get the chain keeper? What gives?

  74. #874
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    drilled on-one rim

    Quote Originally Posted by ljracer View Post
    Yup . Pretty easy job. Just watch the video Shaggy John posted.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank you very much,

    I will do that

    Best,


    Martin
    ad vineas

  75. #875
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    Quote Originally Posted by col200 View Post
    Am I the only one who didn't get the chain keeper? What gives?
    It seems odd. Just contact them directly. I'm sure they will take care of you.

  76. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by col200 View Post
    Am I the only one who didn't get the chain keeper? What gives?
    US supplied bikes seem to have shipped without them. I shall chase this issue for you if you can give me your full name.

  77. #877
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    I will change my Fatty to 2*10 speed system with Truvativ Husselelt 32/22 or Holzfeller 32/22 cranks,
    which are 9 speed specific. I will use normal Shimano SLX down pull front mech and I change lower limit screw to 30 mm long, because I am advised it works so. Which one works better in this compination 9 s or 10 s front mech ?.

  78. #878
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    Quote Originally Posted by brant View Post
    US supplied bikes seem to have shipped without them. I shall chase this issue for you if you can give me your full name.
    Mine didn't arrive with one either (nor the white bars, showed up with black ones)

    I contacted Titus about the chain guide and was told they were delayed, and that I would receive one when they arrived. Sounds good, waiting patiently now.

  79. #879
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    My Fatty didn't have the chainguide either. I've already switched it to 2X.

  80. #880
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    I just got email that chainguides are being shipped out now.

    Has anyone drilled and tapped the Holzfeller crank yet?

    I noticed in the instructions for the Howitzer BB, there is supposed to be one spacer on the right side, or a chainguide/shiftguide. Is the BB perhaps preloaded too much without it?

    Edit: I see now, the left bearing is slip fit, radial loaded only, and the right bearing takes care of the thrust, so there is no preload adjustment.
    Last edited by autodoctor911; 01-04-2013 at 12:47 PM.

  81. #881
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    On One Fatty vs Muk2

    I needed another fat bike to complement my Fatty. So, no more being available, I bought a Mukluk 2. Well, it's faster, but no where near as well thought out as the Fatty-and for more than twice as much. Sheesh. I wanted to set up a Fatty with lighter wheels, and see what that did, and wish I could've. It has way nicer stuff-meaning the Fatty- if you don't compare the crankset and wheels of the Muk2. Nothing else is anywhere near as nice. I hope On One brings out a lighter Fatty with faster/lighter wheels and a nice ethirteen crank. That, would be killer! Thanks On One for a killer Fat Bike!!

  82. #882
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    Here's my inaction shot from the first ride. I still have to lower the pressure more in the tyres. I'm looking forward to getting a front derailleur and small chainring as I'm too unfit to climb some of the usual hills.

    Tim
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-fatty-first-ride.jpg  


  83. #883
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    Fatty on the lake

    This bike is so damn fun!
    (well, picture is taken along the shoreline)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-fattylakeside.jpg  


  84. #884
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    Has anyone else noticed that the brake pads are about 3-4mm further from center than the rotor?
    Have I mucked something up when I put it together?
    It is like this front and rear, like the caliper brackets are designed for a rotor that is a bit larger.
    I can see the wear pattern on the rotor is off the outside edge, and there is a section of rotor below the pad that is not getting contact.
    I am sure the pads will wear with a good bit on top not getting any wear, and eventually may touch each other over top of the disc before the pad is totally worn, resulting in no braking force.
    Can the lower cups for the spherical washers be changed out for thinner ones?

    Do I need bigger rotors, or different brackets?

  85. #885
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Mine didn't arrive with one either (nor the white bars, showed up with black ones)

    I contacted Titus about the chain guide and was told they were delayed, and that I would receive one when they arrived. Sounds good, waiting patiently now.
    When I ordered mine the specs said black el guapos came standard. The UK site allowed you to customize a few items, including a choice of handlebar color, seat type and color, grip type and color, etc.

    I went ahead and ordered a white Mary bar. It looks great, and is very comfortable, while allowing very good steering control without being too wide, and is cheap(around $25). It is also lighter than most alt bars.

    As you can see, I had to use all the spacers I could fit on an uncut steerer to get the 37mm rise Mary to seat height. I don't like the way it looks, but I am comfortable with it, and am not afraid of damaging the steerer. I am quite certain the handlebar would bend before the steel steerer tube ever would. But it still looks odd. I also have a 5.75" carbon BMX bar coming, that will give the same height with no spacers, but I will loose the nice swept back hand position. I will try them, but if my wrists don't like it, I will switch back before cutting the steerer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails On One Fat Bike Frame-imag0169.jpg  


  86. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    Has anyone else noticed that the brake pads are about 3-4mm further from center than the rotor?
    Have I mucked something up when I put it together?
    It is like this front and rear, like the caliper brackets are designed for a rotor that is a bit larger.
    I can see the wear pattern on the rotor is off the outside edge, and there is a section of rotor below the pad that is not getting contact.
    I am sure the pads will wear with a good bit on top not getting any wear, and eventually may touch each other over top of the disc before the pad is totally worn, resulting in no braking force.
    Can the lower cups for the spherical washers be changed out for thinner ones?

    Do I need bigger rotors, or different brackets?
    Avid brake rotors used to be 185 & 165mm. The rotor specs for the Fatty say 180F & 160R and interestingly the adapter specs say the same. Maybe Avid changed the size of their rotors to follow everyone else. That might explain the extra gap, especially if the adapters were for 185F & 165R (this should be printed on the inside of the adapter).

    Having said all that crap, as long as the pads remain parallel with the rotor, you can remove the adjustable washers between the adapter and the calliper (both above and below). Forks (steel in particular) are known for having alignment issues with the 74mm IS mounts and this is why manufacturers use the adjustable washers. I'm not suggesting for an instant the On-One fork is affected in this way.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  87. #887
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    Given that in my local trails there's a small amount of stigma given to any on one bike, im pretty certain this will break that usual stereotype... They're actually very nice looking bikes.
    Any news on when you can buy separate parts?

  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesabaldwin View Post
    Given that in my local trails there's a small amount of stigma given to any on one bike...
    Really? I've never encountered anything like that anywhere.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  89. #889
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    Yeah, seriously. Maybe its a select group of riders around here then, middle England posh and rich folk, the rarer a piece of kit is tends to shine more than technical ability... Its quite pathetic really and im a big fan of on one inbred and scandal frames so I try to distance myself from them

  90. #890
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    That's sad. I hope that changes with this bike.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

  91. #891
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    Me too, it looks like a beaut. Im aching to get one but may wait for the next revision

  92. #892
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    I don't know that it needs anything. Wait long enough and I'm sure the price will go up. Someone asked earlier, and On One replied there were no changes coming on the second batch, as I read the response. The frame is beyond great. All the bike needs is a light set of wheels and a high end($$$$$$) crankset to be a world beater. I also have a Mukluk 2 and the parts and set up/design? are not good. The OnOne Fatty was set up way better than my muk and that was with at least 2 shop mechanics going over it(muk). I can't say enough good about the Fatty. It's like the Fatty was made by the best builders and the Muk was spec'd in some cut-rate Chinese shop. Sorry Salsa, but that's the way it looks in the first week of ownership.

  93. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesabaldwin View Post
    Given that in my local trails there's a small amount of stigma given to any on one bike, im pretty certain this will break that usual stereotype...
    Blimey, you must have a lot of elite top earning mtb xc superstars in your area, but actually most of those I've met can do the job on any bike.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  94. #894
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    Is the effective top tube length on the biggest frame really just 24"? I need 24.5"-25"
    Rudy Projects look ridiculous

    visit my blog, BEATS, BIKES & LIFE

  95. #895
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    Quote Originally Posted by appleSSeed View Post
    Is the effective top tube length on the biggest frame really just 24"? I need 24.5"-25"
    I usually ride a 24.5 ETT on all my bikes with a 90-100mm stem. I went with the 70mm stem and 745 mm bars on mine with the large frame. Fits me fine FWIW. Im all torso and short legs. My buddy who rides a size up from me can ride it fine as there is plenty of seatpost to raise up.

  96. #896
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    Quote Originally Posted by autodoctor911 View Post
    Has anyone else noticed that the brake pads are about 3-4mm further from center than the rotor?
    Have I mucked something up when I put it together?
    It is like this front and rear, like the caliper brackets are designed for a rotor that is a bit larger.
    I can see the wear pattern on the rotor is off the outside edge, and there is a section of rotor below the pad that is not getting contact.
    I am sure the pads will wear with a good bit on top not getting any wear, and eventually may touch each other over top of the disc before the pad is totally worn, resulting in no braking force.
    Can the lower cups for the spherical washers be changed out for thinner ones?

    Do I need bigger rotors, or different brackets?
    Rear
    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1357493773.402307.jpg
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    Front
    Name:  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1357493805.116595.jpg
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    Mine are lined up with the rotors. But it all came preassembled from On-One. I did have to bleed my rear brake because lever was going to the bar on the first pull, but otherwise no braking issues. Let me know if you want other pics or info.

  97. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127 View Post
    I will change my Fatty to 2*10 speed system with Truvativ Husselelt 32/22 or Holzfeller 32/22 cranks,
    which are 9 speed specific. I will use normal Shimano SLX down pull front mech and I change lower limit screw to 30 mm long, because I am advised it works so. Which one works better in this compination 9 s or 10 s front mech ?.
    I did it yesterday and it works very well.

    I did 25 km today, no problem. The cranks and derailleurs 9 or 10 speeds are not really different. The size of the teeth and the inside width of the chain are exactly the same in 9 and 10 speed, only the external width of the chain changes, but very few.
    French. In France .Near Paris. Yes, really.

  98. #898
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    So I finally got my fatty a couple of weeks ago, but other than a few spins around the block/local park I've not had time to put her through her paces..I've finally managed to get out of work / bed (flu) today and gave her a spin - nothing too serious, but enough to keep me grinning for hours.

    Impressions:
    - got her with a bent front rotor... need to replace that, not even going to try and contact On-One for the sake of a rotor.. might get an orange set hehe.

    - Avid Elixirs... mine needs to be pumped up before anything happens... will give them a bleed, but I think they might be on their way out, to be replaced with something trustworthy.

    - she's heavy, around 39 with the large option - will deffo look at the lighter tubes and maybe even drilling as per Shiggy's vid...tubeless...?

    - broke my wrist a few years ago and I can feel it with the front, might look into the Lefty conversion

    - not 100% sure I got the pressures dialed in perfectly, but I got the wheels super pumped and let a fair bit out, still not getting much of a dampening in the front.

    Other than that it's bundle of fun that just keeps giving! It grips like nothing I've played with before, only once managed to get her to shift her arse sideways and that was no more than an inch, it's a bulldozer over rocky sections.

    All and all I absolutely love the bike

    See the clip of her first outing!


    Last edited by fyford; 01-06-2013 at 02:57 PM.

  99. #899
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    I consider this one of the nicest looking fat frames.

  100. #900
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    So I missed out on the first batch and would like to get in on the next. I notice that the UK site allows preordering but the US (where I am) site does not. What's the deal?

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